These types of videos help me more than you can imagine living in the UK makes you Eric my main source of gun smithing, reloading and just general knowledge I went from knowing nothing about reloading to now reloading a few hundred rounds a week. Thank you very much and keep up the amazing work!!
I went out to a gun show and bought my first Mosen nagant this weekend ive had a blast shooting it so far and have been looking for ways to improve accuracy. i found this video informative entertaining and overall helpful, thank you.
The Brownells glass bedding stuff is really great. You can get a "kit" from them which includes a dye that you can mix into the slow cure epoxy to darken it to deep dark walnut depending on how much you want to put in it, also included is a packet of fiberglass tiny bristles which you can add to he mixture, this stuff interlocks in all directions and makes a large-fill, much stronger, this epoxy remains slightly elastic, hence will not crack from recoil by design. I repaired a stock in the pistol grip completely broken on a Browning O/U (an inherently weak area) more than 20 years ago I've shot skeet with it for thousands of rounds over the years, it's just fine. really good stuff. Also, blue tape off any areas outside you don't want this stuff on, when it partially dries/no longer runny, remove the tape, other wise this stuff soaks into the wood and you might as well refinish the whole outside of the stock with it! Talk about waterproof! I smeared some trying to wipe it off and went ahead and used the palm of my hand rubbing it in and refinished the whole stock with it, awesome finish, in one coat, just have a but plate screw or something you can tie a string to and hang until dry, you can't have it touching anything and make sure the screw is in DEEP enough, or it can spin around in the wind outside and....ooh no! I learned the hard way.
If you bed the rear of your rifle, ensure you add a thin amount of electrical tape on the tang so that there is an intentional gap. The Russians left a generous amount of space behind the tang is so that it doesn't become a 2nd recoil lug. It was inletted that way to direct the recoil to the bolt that goes behind the recoil lug, instead of directing the force to the grip, which is usually the weakest part of the stock that cracks/splits. If you've already done what this video shows, you can still grind the bedding out the rear area and re-do it correctly.
That's correct if the bolts loosen even a turn the recoil will push the whole action back and crack the grip just behind the tang when the back edge of the tang comes in contact with wood. That's why its exposed on original wood, so it moves back freely during failure. The rifle survives and a few stitches teach the soldier to check his weapon properly. My M53 was set in a modified savage stock and had this happen. It didn't crack luckily. Just took a chip out. I left the damage rather than refinish it to remind me to check the screws before shooting.
David T If the screws loosen, rest them on an anvil (one like the anvil on Eric's vise works just fine) whack them ONCE on the threads (4-5 threads back from the leading end) with the pein of a small ball pein hammer (
Thanks for spending so much time on the Mosin Nagant! I just bought one at a gun show a couple of weeks ago after watching one of your zombie apocalypse videos. I'm very pleased with rifle, and this whole series you're doing on the gun has been very informative and has given me a lot of ideas.
Don't let the 'lack of views' think these video's are not well liked by the dedicated few who are new to shooting and like to pick up a few things here and there! Cheers from Australia and keep it up!
I recently bought my first Mosin 91/30 and either I got very lucky and got a really good one or the minor modifications I did to it worked like a charm. I took some very thin self adhesive cork and bedded the barrel top and bottom to dampen any vibration definitely giving the rifle a more solid feel. I inserted a very thin metal shim behind the recoil lug to make sure the action stays in place.. Another very thin washer under the seer spring reduced the trigger pull from around 8 to about 5 pounds. I also made a slight adjustment to the front sight post by sliding a piece of white electrical wire insulation over the post to lengthen it. It definitely brought the groups down to center target. I was shocked at how accurate and solid the rifle feels. I shot 3-5 inch groups at 100 yds. using 147, 174, 182, and 203 grain bullets and they all performed extremely well. It instantly became my favorite rifle after 1 day at the range with it. Almost makes me want to try to find another one. Great videos Eric. I've definitely learned a lot from you.
You actually killed your groups bedding the top and bottom of the barrel.. You want the barrel to be independent of everything really. Shouldn't mess with the harmonics of a barrel
I also got a mosin I got mine for Christmas when I was 16/17? I have only two guns (with plans to get more) my marlin papoose takedown 22lr which was my first and the one I paid for myself and it's worth roughly $100-$200 the mosin I have (m91/30) my parents paid $130 it included the bayonet (they didn't know that but none the less were happy about it) two ammo pouches tool kit oil can and strap. even if someone offered me a thousand dollars for my mosin i would flat out refuse theirs no chance of me selling it anytime soon (if ever) I'll keep it as long as I'm alive my dad still has a 380 lorcin he bought and just plane wore it out the frame cracked and it became inoperable he still has it to this day and I plan on keeping mine till the day I die even if it becomes inoperable I love this rifle my parents didn't have a clue what it was when they bought it and are still talking about getting another/more mine had a terrible stock but I sanded it down stained it and coated it in polyurethane and it looks gorgeous and it's very accurate and I have done no other modification other then re coating the stock for a long time I've wanted to buy a reproduction PU scope I've been nervous about doing so as I wanted a more powerful scope I recently learned if I don't like the scope that comes with it I can replace it with another 1" diameter scope while still using the same mount so that's what I'm going to do all the same I love my rifle as a T-shirt i saw said "7.62x54, because sometimes the bad guys hide behind things" trust me it's a understatement I still want to try tracer rounds in it though
If your newly bedded action doers not want to pop loose from the stock, try putting it in the freezer over night. Then try it. I run a flat screw driver in from the front, between the barrel and stock. This always pops a frozen barrel loose.
Some extra tips: Mask the stock with masking tape and paper in the areas where you're going to glass so that any spillage or overflow doesn't end up on the stock. A single layer of masking tape on the back surface of the tang will help prevent any future splitting of the wood. When the tape is removed it provides a micro gap so that when under recoil the tang isn't putting pressure on the stock. All recoil should be absorbed by the recoil lug. Petroleum Jelly on the bolts works great.
It's Project time!!!!! Thanks for the videos! I know these might not get the most views, but these types of videos mean a lot to the community. It's really appreciated! Thanks, Brian
Absolutely can't wait for the trigger job video. Bedding the stock and polishing the trigger in key places can really help make the nagant a great project rifle.
Eric, the recoil lug area is THE most important area of bedding! The rear is not all that critical except it must have some gap behind the tang. The recoil lug should only be bedded on the rear face of the rifle/front face of the stock. Bottom, front and sides should not be a glove fit. Adding electrical tape to these areas on the metal will insure there is a slight gap when the bedding is done. Be sure to use release agent on the electrical tape!!!! Also...the guard screw holes in the stock should be larger than the diameter of the screws so as not to disrupt the harmonics of the gun.
aside from all the other off topic comments, yes we are all ticked off at the price gouging, I just wanted to say Thank You for the Gunsmithing tips and please keep them coming!
haha I was just talking to him on facebook about it, showed him the new rifle i got from you guys a few weeks ago (savage axis). He's pretty happy with the work you guys did.
Still in pretty good shape. From the looks of it I got one of the unfired or at least seldom fired ones. Only some very minor rust on the crown, nothing that couldn't be removed with a jag brush (I think I just got a little lazy with the cleaning one day after shooting some cheap surplus)
The 760 is capable of a high level of accuracy without modification. If you desire to get the most out of the gun you should focus on buying a high quality optic with good solid rings, finding the right factory ammunition or loading your own and practicing as often as possible.
I have bedded some of my guns and used jb weld instead of class and found it easy and seems to stand up well . just something you might want to check out thanks david
Thank you guys for doing these how-to vids. Very few professionals that I trust as much as you guys. I take all your advice to heart. Wish you guys were in Arkansas lol.
The rifle of Мосина does not need Bedding, because there is a screw-bolt of Nagel in her rifle stock. On Bedding it is necessary to glue rifles not having a screw-bolt of Nagel or aluminium tire, for example Remington 700.
+moncorp1 Not fact. The best enemy good! It is not necessary tocomplicate what works so well. Why to reinvent the wheelwith square wheels? And when on a rifle there is not ascrew-bolt of pin or aluminium tire in a lodge and whenlodge here wooden bedding needed.
Александр Забыл ~ you obviously don't understand anything about glass bedding a rifle. There is not a sniper in the world, in ANY country that doesn't glass bed their rifle no matter the manufacturer. You sound like the idiot Putin with your pro-Russian patter.
+moncorp1 I beg pardon for my bad English. Dear friend. You are not right in the expressions. Do I hope you do not think that I have the knowledge from books and had under the thumb nothing except glass with vodka? My President is a not idiot, it you, Americans can not understand a depth and wisdom of Russian on that I and my President we try to carry the ideas and opinion to you. It is not necessary to think that all around fools and only Your nation same title. I acknowledge that among Americans there are very much good and excellent shooters and gunsmiths...as well as I acknowledge that much is good and educated people. We can be friends even. We are normal people and we study to all good and front-rank. Putin is not guilty in that defends interests of Russia in the world. This his work. The citizens of Russia chose him President and he for us executes work. Russia have interests all over the world. Must take it into consideration
After I saw how you fiddle around with the countersink, have you tried filling the mixed glass into a syringe? It may not work with the needle attached but I'm using syringes with many types of glues or other materials like paint, wood glue even bone glue and it works pretty well. You may get more control of the flow and therefor an easier job.
Great video, Eric. Are we going to get to see a video with you pulling this out and trimming up the glass and such? Maybe show off how the glass formed to the lug and tang and such?
advice well taken. i haven't fired it yet due to the stock being damaged, which is why i only payed $80 for it at a pawn shop. id love to convert it back to a sniper if i have the time.
Nice. I've heard that basic bedding is fairly simple if u follow the accepted procedure. Been wanting to try it, and the Mosin is a good place to start. U are stoking the fire
Thanls Eric, great video as always. can you do one where you do a full length or even a pillar bedding on a K31? I have a k31 that had been through a fire and the stock was a loss. picked up a Boyd's stock for it but the fit is not that great and I want to bed it but would like to see it done before attempting it myself.
Another tip: use modeling clay to fill in small holes in the receiver to prevent glass from flowing into areas that could cause major binding when removing.
Look up the Archangel Mosin Nagant stock. It converts it to accept a detachable 10 round magazine. Anything more and it'd be too long to bench or prone fire.
I would love to know how you achieved the finish on this gun. I do not know much about staining or finishing wood at all but would like to achieve something exactly like what you've got here. Enjoying your how-to videos. Thanks!
Another great video, thank you. If you go to a pharmacy they will sell you disposable syringes of different gauges if you tell them what you are doing. ie injecting resin for woodworking projects,these are cheap, disposable, accurate and disposable. Try it once and I don't think you will ever do it any other way!
Great video series Erick. I don't usually comment on your vids, but this was a great how to. I would like to do this with my Mosin. I think everyone should own a Mosin or two. TC
in the video, the applied material is resin, not glass. I've seen some comments about using microballoons and/or aerosil or cabosil. these both make the resin act more like a bondo depending on mix ratios and materials used. the resin used in the video is an epoxy resin. it's very different from polyester resin. your typical off the shelf bondo is a polyester resin. polyester has a higher shrink rate than epoxy and again depending on aerial mix and applications, could be a better solution. also, using a very light veil plain weave in the bedding would likely add some strength to it, and help distribute the recoil loads. again, all of this is depending on several factors that for garage purposes is not very scientific or engineered. so, caveat belongs to the installer.
Eric did an excellent job in glass bedding a Mosin. This technique is good if you just want to bed your rifle's stock or you are sporterizing your Mosin, but if you are doing an accurate restoration or building a PU sniper, this method would not be technically correct. The Russian arsenals and some actual snipers used bearing plates and leather strips wrapping the barrel to stabilize it. This is the method pre fiber glass and Loctite. The first PU conversion I did I was fortunate to find a rifle that was done at the arsenal. I did have to replace the leather bedding do to rot from age, but the end result was a period rifle that is a "Tack Driver".
Awesome video Eric, very informative. Does the glass bedding also work in synthetic stocks? Or only wood? Just curious. I'm hoping to get into gun smithing one day, I really find my zen pulling apart and tinkering with weapons.
No, a chemical bond would be if it actually bonded the metal and wood together at a molecular level. A mechanical bond is a form of adhesive bonding during which adhesive material physically locks into the crevices of the surface.
lots of stuff works, but bedding compound is better. acraglass sells little kits, i just bought one for 50$ and theres enough left over to do at least another gun
Watched tons of videos on epoxy bedding before I attempted to strengthen a musket stock at the breech only. Any tips on freeing a stuck one? 🤬 Not sure what went wrong. Used prussian blue and didn’t have alot touching so I fiqured I was pretty safe. Used plenty of release but she is attached at the breech plug area. EDIT: Got it! Thanks for your wonderfully filmed videos and knowledge.
I am so doing this, after a few hundred rounds with my Mosin, I always end up having to tighten it down because of the wiggle room. Thanks so much for posting this. Really looking foreword to your trigger job video for the Mosin
My 1938 91/30 has a bore that looks brand new and all matching numbers. I'm thinking it somehow got lost in the shuffle. It kicks like a mule on my end ... but would be worse news on the other end.
This can result in "wet spots" within the glass that, once evaporated will cause voids within the finished glass. Mix in cup 1, then using a tall pour into cup 2 aiming for the same spot on the side wall of the cup. This will assure a properly mixed solution. Overtime a poorly mixed solution will, decompose, discolor, and can potentially fail completely. It may seem fine for awhile, but again, over time, poorly mixed solutions will compromise the job.
my sister's fiance told me he embedded a stock on an old hunting rifle with JB weld. he did great work on it just looked at it today and he told me its a tack driver now. Just make sure you don't use JB kwik weld. He told me the reason he did it is that he researched it a bunch and that JB is actually rated for 34K psi if I remember correctly.
These types of videos help me more than you can imagine living in the UK makes you Eric my main source of gun smithing, reloading and just general knowledge I went from knowing nothing about reloading to now reloading a few hundred rounds a week. Thank you very much and keep up the amazing work!!
I went out to a gun show and bought my first Mosen nagant this weekend ive had a blast shooting it so far and have been looking for ways to improve accuracy. i found this video informative entertaining and overall helpful, thank you.
The Brownells glass bedding stuff is really great. You can get a "kit" from them which includes a dye that you can mix into the slow cure epoxy to darken it to deep dark walnut depending on how much you want to put in it, also included is a packet of fiberglass tiny bristles which you can add to he mixture, this stuff interlocks in all directions and makes a large-fill, much stronger, this epoxy remains slightly elastic, hence will not crack from recoil by design. I repaired a stock in the pistol grip completely broken on a Browning O/U (an inherently weak area) more than 20 years ago I've shot skeet with it for thousands of rounds over the years, it's just fine. really good stuff. Also, blue tape off any areas outside you don't want this stuff on, when it partially dries/no longer runny, remove the tape, other wise this stuff soaks into the wood and you might as well refinish the whole outside of the stock with it! Talk about waterproof! I smeared some trying to wipe it off and went ahead and used the palm of my hand rubbing it in and refinished the whole stock with it, awesome finish, in one coat, just have a but plate screw or something you can tie a string to and hang until dry, you can't have it touching anything and make sure the screw is in DEEP enough, or it can spin around in the wind outside and....ooh no! I learned the hard way.
If you bed the rear of your rifle, ensure you add a thin amount of electrical tape on the tang so that there is an intentional gap.
The Russians left a generous amount of space behind the tang is so that it doesn't become a 2nd recoil lug. It was inletted that way to direct the recoil to the bolt that goes behind the recoil lug, instead of directing the force to the grip, which is usually the weakest part of the stock that cracks/splits.
If you've already done what this video shows, you can still grind the bedding out the rear area and re-do it correctly.
Great info, where did you get it?
That's correct if the bolts loosen even a turn the recoil will push the whole action back and crack the grip just behind the tang when the back edge of the tang comes in contact with wood. That's why its exposed on original wood, so it moves back freely during failure. The rifle survives and a few stitches teach the soldier to check his weapon properly. My M53 was set in a modified savage stock and had this happen. It didn't crack luckily. Just took a chip out. I left the damage rather than refinish it to remind me to check the screws before shooting.
A Gunsmith by the name of Darryl Holland warns his students what I posted here.
David T
If the screws loosen, rest them on an anvil (one like the anvil on Eric's vise works just fine) whack them ONCE on the threads (4-5 threads back from the leading end) with the pein of a small ball pein hammer (
Can I bed my mosin with guerrilla wood glue?
Thanks for spending so much time on the Mosin Nagant! I just bought one at a gun show a couple of weeks ago after watching one of your zombie apocalypse videos. I'm very pleased with rifle, and this whole series you're doing on the gun has been very informative and has given me a lot of ideas.
How are you enjoying the zombies?
Don't let the 'lack of views' think these video's are not well liked by the dedicated few who are new to shooting and like to pick up a few things here and there! Cheers from Australia and keep it up!
I recently bought my first Mosin 91/30 and either I got very lucky and got a really good one or the minor modifications I did to it worked like a charm. I took some very thin self adhesive cork and bedded the barrel top and bottom to dampen any vibration definitely giving the rifle a more solid feel. I inserted a very thin metal shim behind the recoil lug to make sure the action stays in place.. Another very thin washer under the seer spring reduced the trigger pull from around 8 to about 5 pounds. I also made a slight adjustment to the front sight post by sliding a piece of white electrical wire insulation over the post to lengthen it. It definitely brought the groups down to center target. I was shocked at how accurate and solid the rifle feels. I shot 3-5 inch groups at 100 yds. using 147, 174, 182, and 203 grain bullets and they all performed extremely well. It instantly became my favorite rifle after 1 day at the range with it. Almost makes me want to try to find another one. Great videos Eric. I've definitely learned a lot from you.
You actually killed your groups bedding the top and bottom of the barrel.. You want the barrel to be independent of everything really. Shouldn't mess with the harmonics of a barrel
I also got a mosin I got mine for Christmas when I was 16/17? I have only two guns (with plans to get more) my marlin papoose takedown 22lr which was my first and the one I paid for myself and it's worth roughly $100-$200 the mosin I have (m91/30) my parents paid $130 it included the bayonet (they didn't know that but none the less were happy about it) two ammo pouches tool kit oil can and strap. even if someone offered me a thousand dollars for my mosin i would flat out refuse theirs no chance of me selling it anytime soon (if ever) I'll keep it as long as I'm alive my dad still has a 380 lorcin he bought and just plane wore it out the frame cracked and it became inoperable he still has it to this day and I plan on keeping mine till the day I die even if it becomes inoperable I love this rifle my parents didn't have a clue what it was when they bought it and are still talking about getting another/more mine had a terrible stock but I sanded it down stained it and coated it in polyurethane and it looks gorgeous and it's very accurate and I have done no other modification other then re coating the stock for a long time I've wanted to buy a reproduction PU scope I've been nervous about doing so as I wanted a more powerful scope I recently learned if I don't like the scope that comes with it I can replace it with another 1" diameter scope while still using the same mount so that's what I'm going to do all the same I love my rifle as a T-shirt i saw said "7.62x54, because sometimes the bad guys hide behind things" trust me it's a understatement I still want to try tracer rounds in it though
josiah esper Cheaper than dirt sells tracers for $8 box of 20
Cool thanks!!!!
josiah esper np, I would get some but I don't think they're worth that much
If your newly bedded action doers not want to pop loose from the stock, try putting it in the freezer over night. Then try it. I run a flat screw driver in from the front, between the barrel and stock. This always pops a frozen barrel loose.
Wow man that reallllly works >.>
GUNS N STUFF hell yeah...had to do this on my 6.5
K swiss rifle?
You must have a big freezer man
In SHTF Eric will run a side business in dentistry.
Great video brother. I've been debating doing this to one of my laminate M44s; looks like I'll be doing it for sure now.
Some extra tips: Mask the stock with masking tape and paper in the areas where you're going to glass so that any spillage or overflow doesn't end up on the stock. A single layer of masking tape on the back surface of the tang will help prevent any future splitting of the wood. When the tape is removed it provides a micro gap so that when under recoil the tang isn't putting pressure on the stock. All recoil should be absorbed by the recoil lug. Petroleum Jelly on the bolts works great.
It's Project time!!!!! Thanks for the videos! I know these might not get the most views, but these types of videos mean a lot to the community. It's really appreciated! Thanks, Brian
Absolutely can't wait for the trigger job video. Bedding the stock and polishing the trigger in key places can really help make the nagant a great project rifle.
I have been using jb weld and shoe polish as a release agent I have done two rifles in the last year and it works great.
Wow, It took about 3 seconds to notice the exceptional lighting/video quality! Great Vid.
Eric, the recoil lug area is THE most important area of bedding! The rear is not all that critical except it must have some gap behind the tang.
The recoil lug should only be bedded on the rear face of the rifle/front face of the stock. Bottom, front and sides should not be a glove fit. Adding electrical tape to these areas on the metal will insure there is a slight gap when the bedding is done. Be sure to use release agent on the electrical tape!!!!
Also...the guard screw holes in the stock should be larger than the diameter of the screws so as not to disrupt the harmonics of the gun.
Thanks for the video! Bought my first mosin last week after seeing your videos for the last few months. I'll give the glassing a try soon!
Sweet Jeebus - another gunsmithing video!!!
Can't wait to try this on my own Mosin. Thanks IV8888 and crew!
Eric, I enjoyed this video and as a result was able to do my first bedding. Thanks!!
The magic of a new lens. Beautiful!
aside from all the other off topic comments, yes we are all ticked off at the price gouging, I just wanted to say Thank You for the Gunsmithing tips and please keep them coming!
haha I was just talking to him on facebook about it, showed him the new rifle i got from you guys a few weeks ago (savage axis). He's pretty happy with the work you guys did.
Glass bedding and free floating the barrel on a mosin makes it shoot SOOOOO much better!
Absolutely does. Each rifle is different of course but all of the things you've listed are proven accuracy enhancers on the Mosin-Nagant's
Still in pretty good shape. From the looks of it I got one of the unfired or at least seldom fired ones. Only some very minor rust on the crown, nothing that couldn't be removed with a jag brush (I think I just got a little lazy with the cleaning one day after shooting some cheap surplus)
Really cool! Thanks Eric! I got to do this to mine to get ready for deer season!
The 760 is capable of a high level of accuracy without modification. If you desire to get the most out of the gun you should focus on buying a high quality optic with good solid rings, finding the right factory ammunition or loading your own and practicing as often as possible.
Great Video! Just like the old days!! This is how i found you way back when, doing mosin how to videos!!!
I loved this video on how to glass bed a Moisin Nagant. What else can I do to accurize, make it shoot better?
This new camera quality is great!
I have bedded some of my guns and used jb weld instead of class and found it easy and seems to stand up well . just something you might want to check out thanks david
It's so relaxing to watch this for some reason.
huge fan man...thanks for tutorial....from the east coast of canada
MOAR MOSIN!! Great video. Love this particular series you are starting.
This is an amazingly well done video. Not only informative, I love the camera work as well!
Thank you guys for doing these how-to vids. Very few professionals that I trust as much as you guys. I take all your advice to heart. Wish you guys were in Arkansas lol.
I glass bed an M44 mosin. I made pillars from brass pipe and installed a steel recoil block. That rifle is now a tack driver.
Joe Murphy dude my 6.5 swedish was a tack driver before i bedded it now im pushing in out to 1000 yards
The rifle of Мосина does not need Bedding, because there is a screw-bolt of Nagel in her rifle stock. On Bedding it is necessary to glue rifles not having a screw-bolt of Nagel or aluminium tire, for example Remington 700.
+Александр Забыл ~ every rifle on the planet can benefit from bedding.
+Александр Забыл ~ every non-auto, bolt action rifle on the planet can benefit from bedding.
+moncorp1 Not fact. The best enemy good! It is not necessary tocomplicate what works so well. Why to reinvent the wheelwith square wheels? And when on a rifle there is not ascrew-bolt of pin or aluminium tire in a lodge and whenlodge here wooden bedding needed.
Александр Забыл ~ you obviously don't understand anything about glass bedding a rifle. There is not a sniper in the world, in ANY country that doesn't glass bed their rifle no matter the manufacturer. You sound like the idiot Putin with your pro-Russian patter.
+moncorp1
I beg pardon for my bad English.
Dear
friend. You are not right in the expressions.
Do I hope you do not think that I have the knowledge from books and had
under the thumb nothing except glass with vodka? My President is a not idiot,
it you, Americans can not understand a depth and wisdom of Russian on that I
and my President we try to carry the ideas and opinion to you. It is not
necessary to think that all around fools and only Your nation same title. I
acknowledge that among Americans there are very much good and excellent
shooters and gunsmiths...as well as I acknowledge that much is good and
educated people. We can be friends even.
We are normal people and we study to all good
and front-rank. Putin is not guilty in that defends interests of Russia in the
world. This his work. The citizens of Russia chose him President and he for us
executes work. Russia have interests all over the world. Must take it into
consideration
The Mosin's recoil lug is freaking huge 0-0
can you use that glass bedding to repair split wooden stocks?
I'm so glad you made this video. I was apprehensive about attempting to bed my M38 until I saw this video. I might attempt this.
After I saw how you fiddle around with the countersink, have you tried filling the mixed glass into a syringe? It may not work with the needle attached but I'm using syringes with many types of glues or other materials like paint, wood glue even bone glue and it works pretty well.
You may get more control of the flow and therefor an easier job.
Great video, Eric. Are we going to get to see a video with you pulling this out and trimming up the glass and such? Maybe show off how the glass formed to the lug and tang and such?
So happy you did this video and are making this series.
advice well taken. i haven't fired it yet due to the stock being damaged, which is why i only payed $80 for it at a pawn shop. id love to convert it back to a sniper if i have the time.
Nice. I've heard that basic bedding is fairly simple if u follow the accepted procedure. Been wanting to try it, and the Mosin is a good place to start. U are stoking the fire
Love the finish on the barrel and mag
Thanls Eric, great video as always. can you do one where you do a full length or even a pillar bedding on a K31? I have a k31 that had been through a fire and the stock was a loss. picked up a Boyd's stock for it but the fit is not that great and I want to bed it but would like to see it done before attempting it myself.
These videos are always the best. Thanks!
Another tip: use modeling clay to fill in small holes in the receiver to prevent glass from flowing into areas that could cause major binding when removing.
Awesome, thanks for posting this. I'm at the point of beding my 10/22 project & wasn't sure how to do it.
Look up the Archangel Mosin Nagant stock. It converts it to accept a detachable 10 round magazine. Anything more and it'd be too long to bench or prone fire.
I would love to know how you achieved the finish on this gun. I do not know much about staining or finishing wood at all but would like to achieve something exactly like what you've got here. Enjoying your how-to videos. Thanks!
great video
I sent this to my 2 buddies who own a nagant
again greets from vienna/austria
Very well made! I just got a Mosin M44 and I will be doing this project.
Another great video, thank you.
If you go to a pharmacy they will sell you disposable syringes of different gauges if you tell them what you are doing. ie injecting resin for woodworking projects,these are cheap, disposable, accurate and disposable. Try it once and I don't think you will ever do it any other way!
It's a Foredom. Same idea, ballsier motor. You could also use a cylinder burr and basically just use the corner.
I am really enjoying these How To Episodes.
Great video series Erick. I don't usually comment on your vids, but this was a great how to. I would like to do this with my Mosin. I think everyone should own a Mosin or two. TC
What sort of releasing agents can be used?
Hey what color stain did you use on that stock? I've been wanting to refinish mine and I like the color
How much do you charge for everything in the video? new metal finish, new stock, bedding, tapping for a scope?
in the video, the applied material is resin, not glass. I've seen some comments about using microballoons and/or aerosil or cabosil. these both make the resin act more like a bondo depending on mix ratios and materials used. the resin used in the video is an epoxy resin. it's very different from polyester resin. your typical off the shelf bondo is a polyester resin. polyester has a higher shrink rate than epoxy and again depending on aerial mix and applications, could be a better solution. also, using a very light veil plain weave in the bedding would likely add some strength to it, and help distribute the recoil loads.
again, all of this is depending on several factors that for garage purposes is not very scientific or engineered. so, caveat belongs to the installer.
Awesome audio quality. I really appreciate these how-to videos.
I've been thinking of glass bedding my Schmidt Rubin G11, I've wondered as to how much of an improvement I could expect from Bedding it.
Do you still use this technique today? Have you changed anything since the video? Thanks for your time.
The metal on that Mosin looks nice! What did you do to it?
Eric did an excellent job in glass bedding a Mosin. This technique is good if you just want to bed your rifle's stock or you are sporterizing your Mosin, but if you are doing an accurate restoration or building a PU sniper, this method would not be technically correct. The Russian arsenals and some actual snipers used bearing plates and leather strips wrapping the barrel to stabilize it. This is the method pre fiber glass and Loctite. The first PU conversion I did I was fortunate to find a rifle that was done at the arsenal. I did have to replace the leather bedding do to rot from age, but the end result was a period rifle that is a "Tack Driver".
sysjls75
Awesome video Eric, very informative. Does the glass bedding also work in synthetic stocks? Or only wood? Just curious. I'm hoping to get into gun smithing one day, I really find my zen pulling apart and tinkering with weapons.
Really appreciate the high quality camera!
No, a chemical bond would be if it actually bonded the metal and wood together at a molecular level. A mechanical bond is a form of adhesive bonding during which adhesive material physically locks into the crevices of the surface.
Great video Eric. Please keep making this video series.
What does this do for the performance
Fills in gaps that causes vibrations when the rifle fires. This increases accuracy.
This must be on the new Nikon. Video quality is outstanding.
Silly question. I have read to be careful with solvent's, that can dissolve bedding. Are there any bedding safe solvents?
awesome video ive actually been wanting to do this! glad you made a video on it i cant wait to see the trigger job!
Can u use Fiberglass or Epoxy for similar results?
Or is this some specialty bedding material for gun stocks?
lots of stuff works, but bedding compound is better. acraglass sells little kits, i just bought one for 50$ and theres enough left over to do at least another gun
50 canadian
try it! I'm guessing that work just fine
Watched tons of videos on epoxy bedding before I attempted to strengthen a musket stock at the breech only. Any tips on freeing a stuck one? 🤬 Not sure what went wrong. Used prussian blue and didn’t have alot touching so I fiqured I was pretty safe. Used plenty of release but she is attached at the breech plug area.
EDIT: Got it! Thanks for your wonderfully filmed videos and knowledge.
At 14:25 you started talking about doing a video for the mosin trigger plz put it up soon!
Awesome brother!! I love these Mosin Rifles. I just finished shooting a friend of mines. Awesome surplus rifle!!
You shot your friend?? Some "Friend" you are ... were....
Would using wood putty or filler be a good cheap DIY alternative?
Love these how-to videos!
I assume the principle of this is the same for any bolt action rifle?
i restocked an air rifle by selofane ( seran wrap? ) ing the action & over hardened body filler in the worn out stock
I can't ever get in a discussion about mosin accuracy😂😂😂😂😂😂.. without dying😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 laughing. Ohhh...... thanks for that.
I am so doing this, after a few hundred rounds with my Mosin, I always end up having to tighten it down because of the wiggle room. Thanks so much for posting this. Really looking foreword to your trigger job video for the Mosin
Love the series Eric! Keep up the great work!
Were those Stryker Burrs?
I worked in a place that made them. They're straightened by hand.....
My 1938 91/30 has a bore that looks brand new and all matching numbers. I'm thinking it somehow got lost in the shuffle. It kicks like a mule on my end ... but would be worse news on the other end.
What's the stain on this stock? I'm refinishing mine, and I really like that look.
This can result in "wet spots" within the glass that, once evaporated will cause voids within the finished glass. Mix in cup 1, then using a tall pour into cup 2 aiming for the same spot on the side wall of the cup. This will assure a properly mixed solution. Overtime a poorly mixed solution will, decompose, discolor, and can potentially fail completely. It may seem fine for awhile, but again, over time, poorly mixed solutions will compromise the job.
awesome. so you dont sand off that lip around the tang so the action is flush with the stock?
The T mark on the stock of Mosin nigant stands for test rifle of the same lot of 100 rifles on a rack
my sister's fiance told me he embedded a stock on an old hunting rifle with JB weld. he did great work on it just looked at it today and he told me its a tack driver now. Just make sure you don't use JB kwik weld. He told me the reason he did it is that he researched it a bunch and that JB is actually rated for 34K psi if I remember correctly.
Thanks for the gunsmithing video. I really like these especially on old C&R rifles!
Were is the second part to this vid?
I am just finished my Mosin project, but this will be great for next time.
Love your videos guys! Keep up the good work
Awesome that you would share this knowledge and experience with us.
for the glass that you use in this video and for the repainting the sights could you substitute it for fiberglass resin and hardener?