As a mechanical/electrical tradesman I cringe at the misinformation on RUclips, thankfully we have professionals like you to keep people on the straight and narrow. Thank you for a truly excellent video on common sense bedding principles and pointing out basic engineering practices
What you say applies also to professionals. I watched a very popular gun channel demonstrate how to disassemble and assemble a pistol. I own that exact model. The gun would jam if following his advice. After watching the video several times I noticed he did a clever editing at the precise step which would cause the jam.
As a gunsmith I am so glad you did you this video. I follow the same advice you giving and use bedding bolts (what I call them). I have had to clean up a few bad bedding jobs over the years. I cringe at alot of these videos on You Tube with people not clamping at all or the other extreme of torquing it all down. I prefer Acraglass from Brownells, it is very forgiving alot of working time and when mixed properly it is a great product. I have also seen people not taping their barrel and losing their free float or putting so much tape that they now coule park a truck under the barrel. This video is great.
Thanks Mark now I understand what bedding a rifle is and how to go about it the correct way appreciate all you and Sam do for us viewers mate cheers Yogi 🤙🤙🇦🇺
Great advice as ever. I recall seeing videos with the errors that you refer to. Hopefully some actions are saved expensive follow up work after this video.
Hey Mark you really help us all... I am about to attempt my first DIY bedding and was thinking about how to avoid compound getting into the screw holes. Your solution is excellent. Also I thought tightening would be beneficial but I can see how neutrality is preferred rather than bedding to the stock with preloaded strains in the material from torquing the screws. Thank you for the education!
Great and properly explained process bedding video. I have bedded all my custom rifles using the same stud process and they all have worked perfectly well. I use spacers at the floor plate area and give it a controlled tightening to avoid the same issues you explained. There is a video by AllTerra arms on their website and they show in details how they bed their actions. Those guys do it the right way, after all their rifles start at around $ 6,000 US and above. Thanks for proper education for those who think they know how to bed rifle.
Thanks heaps Mark, you are so right . Every video I have watched regards this subject shows the torqueing of bedding screws. I will be attempting this bedding process for the first time and am so glad we have people like yourself not just with the knowledge but also prepared to part with it. Thanks again and cheers for sharing.
Nice video! I totally agree. I have sets of headless action screws that I use just to locate the action into the stock. Then I wrap surgical tubing around the action to hold it in place while bedding is curing.
You may scoff now: I bed my scope base and rings for the same reasons you bed the action. There's a wee bit of slop in there. If you've ever pulled a scope and seen uneven wear points you know what I'm talking about. That abrasion only happens when things move. Great video as always. Thanks!!
So glad I came here ! As usual u have the best answers to everyday problems for shooters mate , just about to bed my Remington mohawk into a brand new factory stock I managed to acquire recently , I have bedded scope rails and a long time ago a .22 Brno action , but this rifle has to be perfect and the last thing I need is a stuff up ! Thank u so much keep up the great work cheers Wrighty 🍻
As usual, you give solid advice based on real-world applications and experience. I have only seen one other person using the extended action bolts as you have. It's a great tip for preventing compound in the action and keeping the action level and torque free during the bedding process.
I’m thinking the trick is to use fully threaded or double ended extended action bolts. Then after it’s inserted through the stock you can apply desired tension from the bottom.
Mark your talking very common sence as always I love the stud and grease idea to protect the thread pockets. Brilliant video once again. Thanks for sharing your expertise with us all.Thumbs up sir
Thanks for the great insight into bedding jobs. I’ve done half a dozen of my own rifles over the years with good results. Your thoughts are definitely food for thought in fine tuning my methods. You have a couple of ideas that may give me that extra bit of perfection. Thanks for that. Cheers.
4:40 when I bedded my little Mossberg I pillar bedded at the same time. The pillars were torqued to the receiver and then pushed down through the epoxy. Some clay in the socket heads kept epoxy from making tamper proof action bolts. Seems like an easy way to avoid the possibility of getting action screws permanently affixed to the receiver.
Great idea. I hear it takes a very smart individual to concoct an ingenious idea. I hope some actions are saved by this great advice and great video as always!
Now you have me thinking about the first rifle I bedded over 30 years ago. I guess it will be fine if I never try to remove the barrel! 🤣 Good video as usual Mark.👍
Excellent tip mark, Another thing with the howa action is to bed the Knox in front of the recoil lug because there is no action material in front of the screw, unlike the Remington.
Good advice. I would tell people to do more planning than they expect, mask off areas to get clean lines in the bedding if visible, use release compound everywhere you don't want the bedding to stick and use clay dams to stop the bedding from getting where you don't want it. Also, tell people how to bed their scope rails. Most good rails are machined pretty straight but those factory actions can be a real mess so bedding the rail to the action in a stress free position will keep your rings aligned and reduce the stress in your scope. You can even angle bed it to get additional "free" elevation from your scope if you want to try ELR without all the specialized gadgets. I roughed up the bottom of the rail I bedded and used a set screw to hold the elevation of my angle bedding, then I bedded the back first, let it harden and then went back to do the front. After some cleanup the bedding is beautiful, no stray material, no voids. You might not even notice it if you are not looking for it and most importantly it bolts on stress free. Most custom actions wouldn't need scope rail bedding but a Leupold rail on a Savage action seemed like a good application for scope rail bedding for me.
Thank you for this. Im trying to mill out a peice of metal to allow my recoil lug to sit, then fill with some epoxy.. you pointed out some informative saving points for my process , thank you again
Very, very good. I enlarge the studs with tape to be snug in the holes for alignment. I use vinyl electrician's tape, lots of it, to clamp it in. Dirt cheap, nice and tight but not too tight. Great information.
Thank You for the explaination Mark, especially with regard to using the Dummy Screws/Studs. The way I explain the Bedding process to people is: "You are attempting to place the rifles Action, so that it is at complete Rest, in the stock inletting/Bed. In the same way, that we want to lay down in out own Bed, to be at Rest. We wan't the rifles Action, to have no unwanted stresses applied to it, as it Lays in it's Bed (its inletting)." Hope that helps. Regards JB
Thanks Mark. I’ve never built a bolt gun, been focused on gas guns. Been thinking about building one after I finish the gas gun projects currently underway. We seem to think alike in some ways. As you were describing the problem, the first thing that came to mind was using studs in place of the action screws. You could even use threaded rod, and snug the stock to the action with washers and nuts, as long as you didn’t overtighten them and squeeze all the bedding material out of place or distort the stock. If the action screws are shoulder bolts, you would need to make sleeves to cover the threads exposed, maybe. Hell, I don’t know what I’m talking about 🤬 Cheers to you and Sam.
Hey Mark. Very interesting and helpful information. Thank you very much for sharing your thoughts on how to do this, it makes a lot of sense. Would probably never have thought of it otherwise. 👍🏻
Hey Mark just to add to your comments about using the blind bolts I also like to use a plastic straw put in place of the action holes in the stock to stop any run out of the bedding compound so as I lower the action into the stock the blind screws push the straws through without letting any compound leach into the action holes potentially locking the action into the stock.
So Mark if I understand this when you are bedding you want to fill all the holes. (Well someone had to say it.) This actually works in industry as well while working on machines where you don't want stuff in the threads. Thanks for the insight. Sorry about the bad joke. Stay safe. Take care. Have fun. 😎
great info not going to lie I did this exact thing first time I tried bedding on cheap rifle got luck non metal epoxy and fixed it with tap again lucky no permanent damage
I have always used your method, and for the same reasons. If the barrel is a fairly light one, masking tape will hold it all together while the epoxy sets. The last one I did was a 26" very heavy barrel (308) on a Howa action in a laminated wood stock... a long range target rifle.... Those clever soft jawed friction clamps are wonderful aren't they? I must say the action/stock fit on this rifles was way above average for a factory job... A barrel epoxied into an action by a goof in bedding might be easier to undo with a fair bit of heat. Once you get up to about 250C the epoxy tends to let go.... Oh, while I think of it...it always pay to leave a little clearance behind the rear lug to ensure that only the recoil lug absorbs the recoil impulse...
I inherited my favorite uncles M70 30-06. When I tore it apart to clean oh my, it was bedded with bearing grease! Lol Took my a while to clean that rifle! Thanks for the vid!
Glad I found your video Mark. I have looked at close to a dozen such videos today alone and everyone seems to have a different view and method. Many I watched seem to bed the full length of the action and a few only bedded at the action mounting points. Your video was particularly helpful as I have a varmint barrelled Howa 1500 in .223. The idea of substituting the action bolts with studs to prevent the bedding compound entering the threads is good to know. I'm hopefully getting a Boyd timber stock for the Howa to use as a bench rifle, and have been confused as to whether I should bed the action or not. I can now see some of the potential errors made in the other videos I have viewed. Cheers from Adelaide.
When using the studs to fill the screw holes in the action, I like to give them a turn when the bedding compound has begun to firm but before it has cured. Makes it easier to remove the action (or the bolts first, then the action) after the compound has cured.
Seconded, regarding bedding chassis. I had a beautifully accurate Savage 10. Upgraded to a chassis and groups went from 3/8in to a hair over an inch. Chassis was perfect, but the action had some imperfections. Check your contact patches if in doubt! I torqued my action screws to a fuzz past finger tight and fired 3 rounds. It was perfectly clear where my high spots and low spots were, confirming my suspicions. It was easy to address it with a skim bed job.
Just about to do my first bedding job in my ruger. The idea of sticking the action screws up through the epoxy has been bothering me. Thanks for the video, great solution to the problem.
Supurb advice. Screw 'studs' prevent multiple issues as you kindly point out. One can learn the hard way, pay a smith for time and ability (fine if one has the budget) or listen to someone who has been there and done that. Mark, thanks for generously sharing your knowledge. American humorist Will Rogers supposedly said "Some learn by reading, some by observation. Others have to piss on the electric fence for themselves." Having taught myself rifle bedding, I promise it's the more painful method. 😵😬🤕 Mark steers us past significant pitfalls. Pay attention and thank him! 👍🏼
I just bed a Remington 700 action this last weekend and I had that exact same problem! luckily found the gob of betting epoxy in the action so I scraped it out using a bore scope & a wooden tool i made.. took me a long time but luckily I happened to see it before it was hard
Right or wrong, I used my rear action screw to hold my M77 action in place. I didn't torque it down, just took the slack out. 28" heavy barrel, so the rear screw just kept it held in the stock. Just ran it down until all slack was out. In the other two screw holes, I cut small pieces of foam earplugs, rolled them up and put them in the holes. Worked great. I hate the angled recoil lug. 😂 That's the only reason the stock isn't pillar bedded.
I did a Ruger Hawkeye. That was my first experience with the angled action screw. Real P.I.A. changes the geometry of things when trying to bed. Really hated that
@@338mag , I understand. I've got mine shooting great, so I'm going to leave it alone. I recently bought a Howa 1500 set up the same as the Ruger. If it'll shoot as good as the Ruger, I'll sell the Ruger and use that money for another build.
I use a cut bicycle tube to wrap the action/stock together...applies a lot of even pressure. But I really hate the mess of bedding in the first place...
Good video, most especially to people who have Remington model 700 that tend to have a round receiver which is not conducive to being particularly accurate. I have never actually witnessed a Ruger Model 77 that needed to be glass bedded resist twisting when the firearm is fired. My very first Centerfire rifle for instance, was a 1979 Ruger Model 77 and 7 mm mag. Using the load that a friend of mine who is a bench press shooter gave me I loaded up some 140 grain Sierras and proceeded to fire a 20 round group into a center to Center spread of 0.049 in. The only thing I had done with that rifle is to put a329 Redfield Widefield scope on it and adjust the trigger to as light as I could make it and still feel reasonably engaged, which brought it down to about a two and a half pound pull weight. I have yet to personally witness a rifle match that accuracy. However I did shoot an Israeli Galil several years later it was a folding stock carbine version of the 308. And with iron sights it would consistently shoot 1/2 inch groups. However because it was full auto they would not allow me to keep it.
l would like to give an alternative because if the action screw holes in the stock are too tight or the screws touch the stock it is bad for consistent accuracy, there needs to be clearance and l am thinking that a smear of grease on the screws will not give enough anyway instead of attaching the studs to the action and lowering the action into the stock, tape the studs to make them a good fit to the holes with plenty of clearance and have everything ready, the studs sitting proud above where they need to be seated, do the screws up in the action above the job and lower the action into the epoxy sliding the studs down, using this method also makes the epoxy have to find other ways to escape eg... mag well, gaps around the barrel/action ect... giving a better job this is how l have been doing bedding jobs for years and it works for me anyhow sometimes it is good to have another pair of hands while doing up the studs its also a good idea to tape the barrel at the forend tip making a good level fit so when lowering the job down it will be level and not lop sided, no guessing games and not as much need for clamps ect... a no pressure bedding job thanks for the video mark its always a pleasure to watch them
@@Nonedw yes it is that easy, drill out the action screw holes after bedding to relieve the king screws making sure there is plenty of clearance, but being aware of the consequences of too tight of a fit is the important thing to know the problem can be that all holes in different stocks are not the same size so if the hole is too big epoxy can seep into the hole while seating the action into place causing sink back in the job ruining it but also creating a very tight king screw hole because the epoxy has filed in the gaps around hole that you would then drill out to fix, my method works but understand it is only a recommendation from me trying to help
I use Devcon. I use 2 studs with shrink-wrap on them and wrap everything with electrical tape stretched tight. I bed all my rifles, have a new B&C stock that I'm working on now.
Yeah, theres not a lot of videos on bedding a flat-bottom action like the howa; I am assuming the process is "the same", but the action is different enough that I'm just not comfortable with it yet...
Thanks for covering how to handle the screws. Most videos do not address this issue. Would it be a good idea to put a small wad of paper pushed into the screw holes in addition to the rods that you use? This may prevent future problems if someone would drop Locktite into the screw holes.
Looking at bedding my .204 Ruger Tikka T3x so this was very helpful. What is the chance of you doing a bedding Video from start to finish? The hardest part of utube is finding a video that has reliable information. Also showing the before and after results would make for a nice touch. I have a Tikka you can borrow for the video.😁
Probably the biggest thing is to not overload the area you are bedding with material. You really don’t need much more than a skim coat of glass. Also, use modeling clay to control where the epoxy goes…. Automotive wax and aerosol cooking oil also make an effective release agent in a pinch
As a brash young 18 year old I sauntered into a gun ship in Inverell in northern nsw talking and acting like I knew everything about rifles ,a quiet gentleman walked over to me and handed me a copy of Warren Pages the accurate rifle and suggest to me very politely that I should read it (true story ) I did purchase it and this started me on a lifelong quest to find the accurate rifle in all forms .my question in this - where did we start deviating from the original concept of free floating action rails and recoil lugs ONLY touching at the BACK .I have been using studs to bed rifles and masking tape to hold them in for years .Well done for the article
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As a mechanical/electrical tradesman I cringe at the misinformation on RUclips, thankfully we have professionals like you to keep people on the straight and narrow.
Thank you for a truly excellent video on common sense bedding principles and pointing out basic engineering practices
Thanks Colin, Cheers
What you say applies also to professionals.
I watched a very popular gun channel demonstrate how to disassemble and assemble a pistol. I own that exact model. The gun would jam if following his advice.
After watching the video several times I noticed he did a clever editing at the precise step which would cause the jam.
As a gunsmith I am so glad you did you this video. I follow the same advice you giving and use bedding bolts (what I call them). I have had to clean up a few bad bedding jobs over the years. I cringe at alot of these videos on You Tube with people not clamping at all or the other extreme of torquing it all down. I prefer Acraglass from Brownells, it is very forgiving alot of working time and when mixed properly it is a great product. I have also seen people not taping their barrel and losing their free float or putting so much tape that they now coule park a truck under the barrel. This video is great.
Thanks Man, Cheers
I did my action years ago, and I am so glad I stumbled on this advice before I did the job. I believe this info. is 100% correct.
Cheers Man
Excellent discussion. Especially about factory actions and chassis. Cheers!
Cheers Man, thanks
Thanks Mark now I understand what bedding a rifle is and how to go about it the correct way appreciate all you and Sam do for us viewers mate cheers Yogi 🤙🤙🇦🇺
Thanks Yogi, glad you liked
Great advice as ever. I recall seeing videos with the errors that you refer to. Hopefully some actions are saved expensive follow up work after this video.
Thanks Medwyn, cheers
Hey Mark you really help us all... I am about to attempt my first DIY bedding and was thinking about how to avoid compound getting into the screw holes. Your solution is excellent. Also I thought tightening would be beneficial but I can see how neutrality is preferred rather than bedding to the stock with preloaded strains in the material from torquing the screws. Thank you for the education!
Thanks Trev
Rubber tubing or surgical tubing as it's often called works well for that.
Thanks Mark….very helpful 👍
Cheers
Great and properly explained process bedding video. I have bedded all my custom rifles using the same stud process and they all have worked perfectly well. I use spacers at the floor plate area and give it a controlled tightening to avoid the same issues you explained. There is a video by AllTerra arms on their website and they show in details how they bed their actions. Those guys do it the right way, after all their rifles start at around $ 6,000 US and above. Thanks for proper education for those who think they know how to bed rifle.
Thanks Man, Cheers
This is the way I learned to do it, following Brownell's method.
I haven't bedded a riffle in a while, it brought back how to do it again.
Cheers
As always, good, solid info. Cheers from Utah, USA, Mark n Sam!
Thanks Stuart
Thanks heaps Mark, you are so right . Every video I have watched regards this subject shows the torqueing of bedding screws. I will be attempting this bedding process for the first time and am so glad we have people like yourself not just with the knowledge but also prepared to part with it. Thanks again and cheers for sharing.
Thanks Trent, Cheers
Nice video! I totally agree. I have sets of headless action screws that I use just to locate the action into the stock. Then I wrap surgical tubing around the action to hold it in place while bedding is curing.
Cheers
I now understand bedding like never before. Awesome advice all ways comes from you
Thanks Rod
You may scoff now: I bed my scope base and rings for the same reasons you bed the action. There's a wee bit of slop in there. If you've ever pulled a scope and seen uneven wear points you know what I'm talking about. That abrasion only happens when things move. Great video as always. Thanks!!
Yes with some equipment sure helps, Cheers
So do I. You don't want any bends in your scope tube!👍
As someone about to do my gun this way, I really appreciate the advice.
Cheers
Epoxy where it doesn’t belong is a nightmare to remove. Good advice as always Mark.
Yep, thanks Brian
So glad I came here ! As usual u have the best answers to everyday problems for shooters mate , just about to bed my Remington mohawk into a brand new factory stock I managed to acquire recently , I have bedded scope rails and a long time ago a .22 Brno action , but this rifle has to be perfect and the last thing I need is a stuff up ! Thank u so much keep up the great work cheers Wrighty 🍻
Cheers Man, glad you liked, thanks
As usual, you give solid advice based on real-world applications and experience. I have only seen one other person using the extended action bolts as you have. It's a great tip for preventing compound in the action and keeping the action level and torque free during the bedding process.
Cheers man
I’m thinking the trick is to use fully threaded or double ended extended action bolts. Then after it’s inserted through the stock you can apply desired tension from the bottom.
Mark your talking very common sence as always I love the stud and grease idea to protect the thread pockets. Brilliant video once again. Thanks for sharing your expertise with us all.Thumbs up sir
Thanks Toby
Thanks again mate.
Thanks Eka
Great information, really appreciate how you show the easy way and the problems that occur IF YOU DO IT THE WRONG WAY.
Thanks Travis
Thanks for the great insight into bedding jobs. I’ve done half a dozen of my own rifles over the years with good results. Your thoughts are definitely food for thought in fine tuning my methods. You have a couple of ideas that may give me that extra bit of perfection. Thanks for that. Cheers.
Cheers Allen
So glad I found your channel, Thanks for all your great advise. I am becoming a better shooter because of you !
Awesome, Cheers
4:40 when I bedded my little Mossberg I pillar bedded at the same time. The pillars were torqued to the receiver and then pushed down through the epoxy. Some clay in the socket heads kept epoxy from making tamper proof action bolts. Seems like an easy way to avoid the possibility of getting action screws permanently affixed to the receiver.
As mentioned, not an issue when pillar bedding the action, Cheers
It only makes sense to keep the compound out of your screw holes, this is a great video for people that would potentially accidentally do it wrong
Thanks Man
Absolutely right-on! Great presentation Mark.
Thanks John
Very well explained. You certainly know what you are doing. Excellent video as always
Thanks Dave
Great idea. I hear it takes a very smart individual to concoct an ingenious idea. I hope some actions are saved by this great advice and great video as always!
Cheers
Now you have me thinking about the first rifle I bedded over 30 years ago. I guess it will be fine if I never try to remove the barrel! 🤣 Good video as usual Mark.👍
Cheers Duggy
That's how I did mine a few years ago. Was interesting how it brought my shots down about 1 MOA after having a more solid bedding.
Cheers Mike
Great advice Mark, I'm about to do a bedding job and thankfully ordered up inletting guide screws for doing the job.
Cheers
Excellent tip mark,
Another thing with the howa action is to bed the Knox in front of the recoil lug because there is no action material in front of the screw, unlike the Remington.
Cheers
Thank you! Been considering bedding my 25+ year old Remington 700 in its new stock. Glad I watched this first.
Awesome, thanks man, Cheers
Good advice. I would tell people to do more planning than they expect, mask off areas to get clean lines in the bedding if visible, use release compound everywhere you don't want the bedding to stick and use clay dams to stop the bedding from getting where you don't want it.
Also, tell people how to bed their scope rails.
Most good rails are machined pretty straight but those factory actions can be a real mess so bedding the rail to the action in a stress free position will keep your rings aligned and reduce the stress in your scope. You can even angle bed it to get additional "free" elevation from your scope if you want to try ELR without all the specialized gadgets.
I roughed up the bottom of the rail I bedded and used a set screw to hold the elevation of my angle bedding, then I bedded the back first, let it harden and then went back to do the front. After some cleanup the bedding is beautiful, no stray material, no voids. You might not even notice it if you are not looking for it and most importantly it bolts on stress free. Most custom actions wouldn't need scope rail bedding but a Leupold rail on a Savage action seemed like a good application for scope rail bedding for me.
Cheers Joe
Thank you for this. Im trying to mill out a peice of metal to allow my recoil lug to sit, then fill with some epoxy.. you pointed out some informative saving points for my process , thank you again
Cheers Man
Exceptional video. I have used the stud method and am now assured I was doing the right thing! Thanks much.
Thanks man, cheers
Very, very good. I enlarge the studs with tape to be snug in the holes for alignment. I use vinyl electrician's tape, lots of it, to clamp it in. Dirt cheap, nice and tight but not too tight. Great information.
Thanks Man
Thank You for the explaination Mark, especially with regard to using the Dummy Screws/Studs. The way I explain the Bedding process to people is: "You are attempting to place the rifles Action, so that it is at complete Rest, in the stock inletting/Bed. In the same way, that we want to lay down in out own Bed, to be at Rest. We wan't the rifles Action, to have no unwanted stresses applied to it, as it Lays in it's Bed (its inletting)." Hope that helps. Regards JB
Thanks John, Cheers
Thanks Mark. I’ve never built a bolt gun, been focused on gas guns. Been thinking about building one after I finish the gas gun projects currently underway.
We seem to think alike in some ways. As you were describing the problem, the first thing that came to mind was using studs in place of the action screws. You could even use threaded rod, and snug the stock to the action with washers and nuts, as long as you didn’t overtighten them and squeeze all the bedding material out of place or distort the stock.
If the action screws are shoulder bolts, you would need to make sleeves to cover the threads exposed, maybe.
Hell, I don’t know what I’m talking about 🤬
Cheers to you and Sam.
Lol, Cheers
Thank you. Well explained and clarified to demystify. I'm going in .
Cheers Dave
Thank Mark. As always, a wealth of valuable information.
Cheers Jeff
Cheers brother!
Excellent Information Mark!! An Ounce of Preparation is Worth a Pound of Cure :-))
yep, thanks Mark
Hey Mark. Very interesting and helpful information. Thank you very much for sharing your thoughts on how to do this, it makes a lot of sense. Would probably never have thought of it otherwise. 👍🏻
cheers Paul
Cracking advice, studs are a great idea.
Cheers
Great information Mark. Love your channel
Cheers
Thank you for the info.
Cheers
Hey Mark just to add to your comments about using the blind bolts I also like to use a plastic straw put in place of the action holes in the stock to stop any run out of the bedding compound so as I lower the action into the stock the blind screws push the straws through without letting any compound leach into the action holes potentially locking the action into the stock.
Cheers
So Mark if I understand this when you are bedding you want to fill all the holes. (Well someone had to say it.)
This actually works in industry as well while working on machines where you don't want stuff in the threads. Thanks for the insight. Sorry about the bad joke.
Stay safe. Take care. Have fun. 😎
Yep bad, lol, cheers
great info not going to lie I did this exact thing first time I tried bedding on cheap rifle got luck non metal epoxy and fixed it with tap again lucky no permanent damage
Thanks Allen, Cheers
I have always used your method, and for the same reasons. If the barrel is a fairly light one, masking tape will hold it all together while the epoxy sets. The last one I did was a 26" very heavy barrel (308) on a Howa action in a laminated wood stock... a long range target rifle.... Those clever soft jawed friction clamps are wonderful aren't they? I must say the action/stock fit on this rifles was way above average for a factory job...
A barrel epoxied into an action by a goof in bedding might be easier to undo with a fair bit of heat. Once you get up to about 250C the epoxy tends to let go....
Oh, while I think of it...it always pay to leave a little clearance behind the rear lug to ensure that only the recoil lug absorbs the recoil impulse...
Thanks Kathryn
Great points and good solution to the problem.
Thanks Erik, Cheers
Thank You !
Cheers
Good stuff like always, thank you two!
Thanks Man, Cheers
very good points here!
Cheers
Another great informative clip 😊
Thanks
I inherited my favorite uncles M70 30-06. When I tore it apart to clean oh my, it was bedded with bearing grease! Lol Took my a while to clean that rifle! Thanks for the vid!
Lol, cheers
wouldn't rust then
Brilliant! Thanks Mark. Cheers
Cheers bob
More great information. Thanks Mark.
Thanks Dave
Glad I found your video Mark. I have looked at close to a dozen such videos today alone and everyone seems to have a different view and method. Many I watched seem to bed the full length of the action and a few only bedded at the action mounting points. Your video was particularly helpful as I have a varmint barrelled Howa 1500 in .223. The idea of substituting the action bolts with studs to prevent the bedding compound entering the threads is good to know. I'm hopefully getting a Boyd timber stock for the Howa to use as a bench rifle, and have been confused as to whether I should bed the action or not. I can now see some of the potential errors made in the other videos I have viewed. Cheers from Adelaide.
Thanks Man, Cheers
When using the studs to fill the screw holes in the action, I like to give them a turn when the bedding compound has begun to firm but before it has cured. Makes it easier to remove the action (or the bolts first, then the action) after the compound has cured.
Thanks Man, Cheers
Seconded, regarding bedding chassis.
I had a beautifully accurate Savage 10. Upgraded to a chassis and groups went from 3/8in to a hair over an inch. Chassis was perfect, but the action had some imperfections. Check your contact patches if in doubt! I torqued my action screws to a fuzz past finger tight and fired 3 rounds. It was perfectly clear where my high spots and low spots were, confirming my suspicions. It was easy to address it with a skim bed job.
Thanks Matt, Cheers
Thanks Mark
Cheers
Just about to do my first bedding job in my ruger. The idea of sticking the action screws up through the epoxy has been bothering me. Thanks for the video, great solution to the problem.
Cheers
Supurb advice. Screw 'studs' prevent multiple issues as you kindly point out.
One can learn the hard way, pay a smith for time and ability (fine if one has the budget) or listen to someone who has been there and done that. Mark, thanks for generously sharing your knowledge.
American humorist Will Rogers supposedly said "Some learn by reading, some by observation. Others have to piss on the electric fence for themselves." Having taught myself rifle bedding, I promise it's the more painful method. 😵😬🤕
Mark steers us past significant pitfalls. Pay attention and thank him! 👍🏼
Thanks Larry, Cheers
Makes perfect sense. Thank you!
Cheers
Excellent information,
ThankYou
Cheers
I just bed a Remington 700 action this last weekend and I had that exact same problem! luckily found the gob of betting epoxy in the action so I scraped it out using a bore scope & a wooden tool i made.. took me a long time but luckily I happened to see it before it was hard
Cheers Nathaniel
Best on here…period..thanks mark&sam from Ky…matt
Thanks Charles
Right on time. I'm about to bed a savage 112 long range 338 Lapua this week
Cheers
Great tips mate!
Cheers Man
Thanks Mark.
Cheers
Thank you.
Cheers
Right or wrong, I used my rear action screw to hold my M77 action in place. I didn't torque it down, just took the slack out. 28" heavy barrel, so the rear screw just kept it held in the stock. Just ran it down until all slack was out. In the other two screw holes, I cut small pieces of foam earplugs, rolled them up and put them in the holes. Worked great. I hate the angled recoil lug. 😂 That's the only reason the stock isn't pillar bedded.
Cheers
I did a Ruger Hawkeye. That was my first experience with the angled action screw. Real P.I.A. changes the geometry of things when trying to bed. Really hated that
@@338mag , I understand. I've got mine shooting great, so I'm going to leave it alone. I recently bought a Howa 1500 set up the same as the Ruger. If it'll shoot as good as the Ruger, I'll sell the Ruger and use that money for another build.
Thanks for making this video.I'm glad I saw it before starting bedding my rifles.
Thanks man
I use a cut bicycle tube to wrap the action/stock together...applies a lot of even pressure. But I really hate the mess of bedding in the first place...
That will work, and yep, lol, Cheers
Mark, thanks for the information. I have been watching some videos on RUclips and now know what not to do because of yours.
Cheers Louis
Good information
Cheers
Very informative stuff.....Thank you.
Cheers
Good video, most especially to people who have Remington model 700 that tend to have a round receiver which is not conducive to being particularly accurate. I have never actually witnessed a Ruger Model 77 that needed to be glass bedded resist twisting when the firearm is fired. My very first Centerfire rifle for instance, was a 1979 Ruger Model 77 and 7 mm mag. Using the load that a friend of mine who is a bench press shooter gave me I loaded up some 140 grain Sierras and proceeded to fire a 20 round group into a center to Center spread of 0.049 in.
The only thing I had done with that rifle is to put a329 Redfield Widefield scope on it and adjust the trigger to as light as I could make it and still feel reasonably engaged, which brought it down to about a two and a half pound pull weight. I have yet to personally witness a rifle match that accuracy. However I did shoot an Israeli Galil several years later it was a folding stock carbine version of the 308. And with iron sights it would consistently shoot 1/2 inch groups. However because it was full auto they would not allow me to keep it.
Cheers
l would like to give an alternative because if the action screw holes in the stock are too tight or the screws touch the stock it is bad for consistent accuracy, there needs to be clearance and l am thinking that a smear of grease on the screws will not give enough
anyway instead of attaching the studs to the action and lowering the action into the stock, tape the studs to make them a good fit to the holes with plenty of clearance and have everything ready, the studs sitting proud above where they need to be seated, do the screws up in the action above the job and lower the action into the epoxy sliding the studs down, using this method also makes the epoxy have to find other ways to escape eg... mag well, gaps around the barrel/action ect... giving a better job
this is how l have been doing bedding jobs for years and it works for me anyhow
sometimes it is good to have another pair of hands while doing up the studs
its also a good idea to tape the barrel at the forend tip making a good level fit so when lowering the job down it will be level and not lop sided, no guessing games and not as much need for clamps ect...
a no pressure bedding job
thanks for the video mark its always a pleasure to watch them
Very easy to clearance afterwards, Cheers
Drill out the action screw holes afterwards
@@Nonedw yes it is that easy, drill out the action screw holes after bedding to relieve the king screws making sure there is plenty of clearance, but being aware of the consequences of too tight of a fit is the important thing to know
the problem can be that all holes in different stocks are not the same size so if the hole is too big epoxy can seep into the hole while seating the action into place causing sink back in the job ruining it but also creating a very tight king screw hole because the epoxy has filed in the gaps around hole that you would then drill out to fix,
my method works but understand it is only a recommendation from me trying to help
@@markandmellwhiteley7995 Yes, great point on being aware of this problem. First step to avoid issues down the road.
I always use studs and black tape to pull the action down. Your gunning for stress free
Cheers
Great advice as always 😎👌
Thanks Jono
Ik always put clay in places where IT can not go and rubber band to try IT down
And always some tape to support the barrel in front
Cheers
I use Devcon. I use 2 studs with shrink-wrap on them and wrap everything with electrical tape stretched tight. I bed all my rifles, have a new B&C stock that I'm working on now.
Cheers
Great video brother enjoyed it, did 2 just like that ,no trouble 👍❤️
Awesome, Cheers
Very interesting, glad you put this video out 👍
Thanks Man
Yeah, theres not a lot of videos on bedding a flat-bottom action like the howa; I am assuming the process is "the same", but the action is different enough that I'm just not comfortable with it yet...
Cheers
Thanks for covering how to handle the screws. Most videos do not address this issue. Would it be a good idea to put a small wad of paper pushed into the screw holes in addition to the rods that you use? This may prevent future problems if someone would drop Locktite into the screw holes.
Well yes, lots of other details and ways, but your on the right track, Cheers
That’s a really good tip.
Cheers
Looking at bedding my .204 Ruger Tikka T3x so this was very helpful.
What is the chance of you doing a bedding Video from start to finish? The hardest part of utube is finding a video that has reliable information. Also showing the before and after results would make for a nice touch.
I have a Tikka you can borrow for the video.😁
Maybe in the future, glad you liked, Cheers
Probably the biggest thing is to not overload the area you are bedding with material. You really don’t need much more than a skim coat of glass. Also, use modeling clay to control where the epoxy goes…. Automotive wax and aerosol cooking oil also make an effective release agent in a pinch
Cheers Dan
Thanks
Cheers
Genius, this is the video you need to watch to do it right
Cheers
always excellent videos. thank you
Thanks Collin
great advice hank you again 👍🏼
Cheers
Thank you! Very helpful...
Cheers
Beauty, thanks!
Cheers
As a brash young 18 year old I sauntered into a gun ship in Inverell in northern nsw talking and acting like I knew everything about rifles ,a quiet gentleman walked over to me and handed me a copy of Warren Pages the accurate rifle and suggest to me very politely that I should read it (true story ) I did purchase it and this started me on a lifelong quest to find the accurate rifle in all forms .my question in this - where did we start deviating from the original concept of free floating action rails and recoil lugs ONLY touching at the BACK .I have been using studs to bed rifles and masking tape to hold them in for years .Well done for the article
Full bedding has been round for years now, most good target rifles are done that way, Cheers
Yep that's the way, I like Devcon for bedding & PlayDough to block off bits and bobs (need to be quick with the Playdough - it goes hard overnight )
Thanks Linus