I know this channel is mostly to sell products, but darn there are some really, really good videos here. Every time I search a specific solution, I'm surprised how one of the most specific (and helpful) videos that come up after a search on the subject is an Eastwood video. Thanks, guys! 😊👍
Words of advice for those people who are going to use this primer. Here Kevin tries to make it easy to understand by mixing 1 quart to half of bottle of cathalist. I did the exact thing he did but my primer got hard really quick. I only had like 5 minutes to spray it and the spray gun got clogged with primer inside. So ALWAYS take in consideration the outside tempeture when doing this and mix small amounts at a time. You will get a sheet with the mixing ratios. Good luck.👍🇺🇸
I hear you, I'm spraying in Australia on a 35deegreeC day and got about 2 min before my spray started to clog and spent the next 2 hours taking apart and cleaning my gun. was a serious FML moment haha. Is there a cheat sheet that takes into account ambient temp? BTW the US seriously needs to get on board with metric system already, sick of working out conversions 1 qtz = 946.353mL?!?! Just why!!
@@simonirvine1253 I feel the same way about other countries using the metric system, I wish they would get on board with using US measurements (haha) as I hate converting as well.
@@simonirvine1253 HA - thanks Simon - I was thinking the same thing about the heat here - and thinking of possibly painting during the middle of the night (a bit cooler - HA - hopefully) CHEERS from AUSTRALIA
Mixing ratio be careful , Air temps affect dry time ,you don’t want to spend 5 min spraying and 2 hours cleaning your gun. That is very good point MrElP ! and great advise “are you listening Eastwood”
Thank you for this video. Just purchased the polyester primer, shooting tomorrow with 1.8 or 2.0 nozzle. 3 coats it is then block down and 2 more coats
Just thought I'd do a blast from the past here... ZedSled turned out really nice! Here's a big part of how we got it flat and straight!!! Thanks for the nice comments over the years! :)
I use epoxy primer and I put 5 coats then block with 180 then guide coat then block with 500 then paint direct with my 2K process. It’s a one step process. I get a good result and take half the time to do a job.
I used polyester surfacer shopline .Mixed it correctly and it cracked all over.i put it on shopline epoxy.it was 90 degrees outside though I was in a spraybooth.
Eastwood CONTOUR® Polyester Primer Direct to Metal Surfacer can adhere to steel, aluminum, fiberglass, SMC, OE finishes, self-etching primers and body fillers.
The part number for a quart of Eastwood CONTOUR® Polyester Primer Direct to Metal Surfacer is 13522ZP www.eastwood.com/eastwood-contour-polyester-primer-direct-to-metal-surfacer.html?+primer+surfacer
We'd recommend using epoxy primer over bare metal then top coating from there. Here's a full step by step guide we just released: ruclips.net/video/BfNHnTg4lLg/видео.html
Ok so I spray the primer on let it cure then use the guide coat to find the low spots. My question is will the body filler stick to this primer if I have to use body filler? And how long do I have to go ahead and use the 2k primer filler? I just want to make sure if there is a window to use the 2k primer filler. Thanks.
It says at the end of the video that after this polyester primer surfacer is painted on even at that stage you cant paint on top of it,according to Kevin he says that the next stage is 2k high build primer :( I thought this was the high build primer,really confused now or is it all about selling more product
From what I understand, polyester primer is spray on body filler. It can make a panel more strait than just using 2k high build primer. It is used instead of body filler and saves a lot of time when doing restoration work where the car needs to be dead strait. You would still need to use 2k primer afterwards if you want it to be show car perfect. At least that's what I think haha
JM Media thats exactly what spray on poly primers are. A thinned down version of body filler. Unlike body fillers from the can you can layer this more than 1/8 or 3/16th without worries of it separating as their is a chemical and mechanical bond to the substrate. High build primers are great for the guy wanting his 1978 civic redone or the 69 challenger dude wanting his redone. Its a time saver as it sands easy and so easy to form body lines with it. Im 45 so its like finding that cute sexy 35 yr old virgin thats wild but never met someone worth the time of day to give up her cherry to lol. OK a lil different but still. Its amazing stuff.
you are misunderstanding what he said learn how to read he said why is the guy in the video say that polyester is the recommended product to use instead of 2k primer surfacer because its more durable and doesn't shrink back but then he said to use polyester put 3 coats and then block it and then use primer surfacer and block it ready for paint
Where do you apply epoxy primers one inch thick on a body panel. When applied in the normal prescribed thickness it not a problem. If I have some epoxy primer left over I generally put it in a paper cup. Sometimes it sits for weeks at the back of my table and I never see it shrink and break in pieces. I guess you have to put the other products down to see your product.
My car was media blasted, shot with epoxy primer and blocked with the Contour body filler. The instructions on the Contour Polyester Primer Surfacer aren't very clear as to what step to take after shooting the product. The product sheet says to start with 80 and move up to 320-400, but won't the 80 just add gouges and undo all the prior blocking I just spent hours doing? What grit do I uses before shooting the primer-surfacer product after body filler and blocking the car? What final grit do I use to abrade the surface prior to spraying the reduced epoxy primer, as a sealer?
+pitt42075 The surface should be prepped with 80 grit. The filler should be sanded up to 320 before the poly primer. Although you can get away with much courser scratches. You want to finish the poly primer with 400 grit before using the Epoxy as a sealer. To talk to an Eastwood Tech, please call 866.759.2131.
Im still not sold on any poly primer. It sands good but i think to much it will crack. I know its brittle. I still think the way to do it is spend more time on body work . i used poly on race cars and i know when they hit the wall the poly comes off in a sheet .
Ouch how much did you use 😂 don't think of it as a primer think of it as filler, you can't do filler too thick or else it will crack right. So this is just a tool to enhance the surface dont use it to shape or recreate something that isn't there. It has it's limitations but if used properly it does wonders.
@@jflorf909 i ran out of Silkkins and only used 3 med coats. Finished body work with 150. Got filler blown off clean good and shot that polly. 3 med coats waited till it flashed. I sanded it dry then went to a DA 600 them sealed base then clear. Came off in a sheet. Its brittle we dont use it in door jams at work . i still think in 5 or 6 years thr crap will start to crack crows feet from the hot sun. 130 bucks a gal to me good primers 230 a gal. Im sticking it on my car i will see what it does down the road
@mr billionaire i agree. Im in a high end shop. We finish bondo with 150. We go 3 coats of polly crap. Block good with 150 then we use a 2k primer. Block 320 then 600 da or wet then seal and paint. Polly crap goes bad when you sand spray again block do it again. Show cars come out 3 months of a year but i know on a daily driver in 2 or 3 years crap be cracked to hell. Best primer is the Ppg vibrance 2050. Super thick sands ruff but its good and only 190 a kit with 2 hardners.
@@jeffwoods5336 I was going to use the vibrance on my chevelle for the first time .. Strip if down 3 coats body work .. Then what do you suggests, I want it super straight? 🙌
@@jeffwoods5336 I have always had a bit of trepidation about this spray on bog - 40-years ago there were similar products (no doubt better these days) and in my experience - HMMMMMMMM - I never trusted the longevity. My preference is to get the surface 'near to perfect' as I can - then PPG or SPI sandable epoxy. Not sure - but to me - using a single product such as the PPG or SPI sandable epoxy that is more unlikely to crack should produce a better long term outcome. In my opinion, laying on thick spray on bog (yes - most should be sanded off again) could be introducing issues for down the road - and making sure that the stuff is not built up too much on edges or in gaps can also be an issue. Show car - occasional trailer to the show - could be fine - a dark color car in 365 day of the year use - I prefer to err on the side of caution and not cover the car in spray on bog. I am sure that many have used it successfully - but I prefer not to 'gamble' on the long term outcome with this type of product. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
+Jon A If you watch Episode 14 of Hands-On Cars - How To Paint a Car - you can see Kevin use the Eastwood Epoxy Primer as a sealer before spraying the Boulevard Black Basecoat and Show Clear on his Camaro. ruclips.net/video/Gvkj-xZCqjw/видео.html
How do you stir the contour primer? The gallon I got from you, is extremely hard to stir. In the bottom of the cab it’s like goop and will not stir up no matter what
It can take a while to stir, especially if it's epoxy primer. You can try a paint shaker, or call an Eastwood Tech to discuss. Tech # is 800-343-9353. Here's a paint shaker: www.eastwood.com/rockwood-pneumatic-paint-shaker.html
Why does eastwood sell this stuff but they don't sell a gun that has a 2.5mm tip as he says he is using in the video. Not easy to find a 2.5mm tipped gun the biggest I have found was 2.0.
dude your on the internet.... for chrissakes it took me 15 seconds to find this: www.amazon.com/TCP-Professional-Gun-auto-Primer-metal-Regulator/dp/B001NOU92G
You need at least a 3.0 ml gun to shoot this stuff properly. You also can thin it down using acetone to help it through a smaller tip. This stuff is awesome to finish off bodywork and be ready for a nice smooth light coat of primer surfacer to prep it for paint. Great video!
That's what blocking a car is, a lot of sanding. How else do you think the body panels are corrected in a restoration? This process is usually done twice.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I know this channel is mostly to sell products, but darn there are some really, really good videos here. Every time I search a specific solution, I'm surprised how one of the most specific (and helpful) videos that come up after a search on the subject is an Eastwood video. Thanks, guys! 😊👍
Words of advice for those people who are going to use this primer. Here Kevin tries to make it easy to understand by mixing 1 quart to half of bottle of cathalist. I did the exact thing he did but my primer got hard really quick. I only had like 5 minutes to spray it and the spray gun got clogged with primer inside.
So ALWAYS take in consideration the outside tempeture when doing this and mix small amounts at a time. You will get a sheet with the mixing ratios. Good luck.👍🇺🇸
I hear you, I'm spraying in Australia on a 35deegreeC day and got about 2 min before my spray started to clog and spent the next 2 hours taking apart and cleaning my gun. was a serious FML moment haha. Is there a cheat sheet that takes into account ambient temp? BTW the US seriously needs to get on board with metric system already, sick of working out conversions 1 qtz = 946.353mL?!?! Just why!!
That is very good point and great advise “are you listening Eastwood”
@@simonirvine1253 I feel the same way about other countries using the metric system, I wish they would get on board with using US measurements (haha) as I hate converting as well.
@@simonirvine1253 HA - thanks Simon - I was thinking the same thing about the heat here - and thinking of possibly painting during the middle of the night (a bit cooler - HA - hopefully) CHEERS from AUSTRALIA
Links to Buy are in the video. On a mobile device? Look for the button in the top corner of the video. Are YOU an Eastwood Guy?
Mixing ratio be careful , Air temps affect dry time ,you don’t want to spend 5 min spraying and 2 hours cleaning your gun. That is very good point MrElP ! and great advise “are you listening Eastwood”
Thank you for this video. Just purchased the polyester primer, shooting tomorrow with 1.8 or 2.0 nozzle. 3 coats it is then block down and 2 more coats
Just thought I'd do a blast from the past here... ZedSled turned out really nice! Here's a big part of how we got it flat and straight!!! Thanks for the nice comments over the years! :)
I use epoxy primer and I put 5 coats then block with 180 then guide coat then block with 500 then paint direct with my 2K process. It’s a one step process. I get a good result and take half the time to do a job.
Very true
I used polyester surfacer shopline .Mixed it correctly and it cracked all over.i put it on shopline epoxy.it was 90 degrees outside though I was in a spraybooth.
Hey I see you on powernation 😀
Can it go on bare metal?
Eastwood CONTOUR® Polyester Primer Direct to Metal Surfacer can adhere to steel, aluminum, fiberglass, SMC, OE finishes, self-etching primers and body fillers.
Good info. Nice video. I may have to get some.
What is the part number for that polyurethane prommer
What is the part number for that polyurethane primer
The part number for a quart of Eastwood CONTOUR® Polyester Primer Direct to Metal Surfacer is 13522ZP
www.eastwood.com/eastwood-contour-polyester-primer-direct-to-metal-surfacer.html?+primer+surfacer
Is the 2.5 tip required, or will a 2.0 tip work?
We have 1.8 to 2.5 as options on the product page. 2.0 should be fine.
Eastwood is The best
Can u paint over bare metal
We'd recommend using epoxy primer over bare metal then top coating from there. Here's a full step by step guide we just released: ruclips.net/video/BfNHnTg4lLg/видео.html
So nice job where are you located
Ok so I spray the primer on let it cure then use the guide coat to find the low spots. My question is will the body filler stick to this primer if I have to use body filler? And how long do I have to go ahead and use the 2k primer filler? I just want to make sure if there is a window to use the 2k primer filler. Thanks.
only thing we ever used on airplanes!, doing my semi trailer race car trailer at the moment🤦♂️ i feel like i’m doing an airplane 🤣✌🏻
Why not doing 3 layers of highbuild 2k Polyester?
Kevin mentions this gets 3 coats at 3:34.
@@eastwoodco thanks mate... you are legends, when I do the next project, I buy with you
I respect guys with blood blisters on their nails !!! REAL PEOPLE.
hello.... after to apply the polyester primer we have to sand the primer? o just apply the base color? saying hello from mexico city
carwaxer all surfacers must be sanded.otherwise thereis no reason to use it.plus your next coat of primer may not bond
lead dog thank you very much I appreciate your comments, going to paint my car and what better to clarify all doubts .....
Would a 1.4 gun work with this?
No, as the video illustrates... You can get by with a 1.8 by thinning with acetone, but recommend a 2.0 or larger tip .
Cool Video!
It says at the end of the video that after this polyester primer surfacer is painted on even at that stage you cant paint on top of it,according to Kevin he says that the next stage is 2k high build primer :(
I thought this was the high build primer,really confused now or is it all about selling more product
From what I understand, polyester primer is spray on body filler. It can make a panel more strait than just using 2k high build primer. It is used instead of body filler and saves a lot of time when doing restoration work where the car needs to be dead strait. You would still need to use 2k primer afterwards if you want it to be show car perfect. At least that's what I think haha
JM Media thats exactly what spray on poly primers are. A thinned down version of body filler. Unlike body fillers from the can you can layer this more than 1/8 or 3/16th without worries of it separating as their is a chemical and mechanical bond to the substrate. High build primers are great for the guy wanting his 1978 civic redone or the 69 challenger dude wanting his redone. Its a time saver as it sands easy and so easy to form body lines with it. Im 45 so its like finding that cute sexy 35 yr old virgin thats wild but never met someone worth the time of day to give up her cherry to lol. OK a lil different but still. Its amazing stuff.
you are misunderstanding what he said learn how to read he said why is the guy in the video say that polyester is the recommended product to use instead of 2k primer surfacer because its more durable and doesn't shrink back but then he said to use polyester put 3 coats and then block it and then use primer surfacer and block it ready for paint
Urethane 2k or even better Epoxy prime (400 sand) before paint
Where do you apply epoxy primers one inch thick on a body panel. When applied in the normal prescribed thickness it not a problem. If I have some epoxy primer left over I generally put it in a paper cup. Sometimes it sits for weeks at the back of my table and I never see it shrink and break in pieces. I guess you have to put the other products down to see your product.
Thanks for sahring, How many coat do you have to apply for Polyester Primer before you aplly the 2K primer please?
Right there in the video..."3 coats".
Has anybody else noticed that NOBODY from Eastwood has answered a question for over 4 years?????? WTF????
maybe they already dead by now.
or retire.
Maybe because you are lingering on 6 year old videos, try going to the newer ones.
@@TubeWatcher @TubeWatcher WOW...what a GREAT idea!!!! Except one tiny issue...THERE AREN'T ANY "newer ones" on these topics!!!
My car was media blasted, shot with epoxy primer and blocked with the Contour body filler. The instructions on the Contour Polyester Primer Surfacer aren't very clear as to what step to take after shooting the product.
The product sheet says to start with 80 and move up to 320-400, but won't the 80 just add gouges and undo all the prior blocking I just spent hours doing?
What grit do I uses before shooting the primer-surfacer product after body filler and blocking the car?
What final grit do I use to abrade the surface prior to spraying the reduced epoxy primer, as a sealer?
+pitt42075 The surface should be prepped with 80 grit. The filler should be sanded up to 320 before the poly primer. Although you can get away with much courser scratches. You want to finish the poly primer with 400 grit before using the Epoxy as a sealer. To talk to an Eastwood Tech, please call 866.759.2131.
@@eastwoodco I stay at 120 before poly then block
Im still not sold on any poly primer. It sands good but i think to much it will crack. I know its brittle. I still think the way to do it is spend more time on body work . i used poly on race cars and i know when they hit the wall the poly comes off in a sheet .
Ouch how much did you use 😂 don't think of it as a primer think of it as filler, you can't do filler too thick or else it will crack right. So this is just a tool to enhance the surface dont use it to shape or recreate something that isn't there. It has it's limitations but if used properly it does wonders.
@@jflorf909 i ran out of Silkkins and only used 3 med coats. Finished body work with 150. Got filler blown off clean good and shot that polly. 3 med coats waited till it flashed. I sanded it dry then went to a DA 600 them sealed base then clear. Came off in a sheet. Its brittle we dont use it in door jams at work . i still think in 5 or 6 years thr crap will start to crack crows feet from the hot sun. 130 bucks a gal to me good primers 230 a gal. Im sticking it on my car i will see what it does down the road
@mr billionaire i agree. Im in a high end shop. We finish bondo with 150. We go 3 coats of polly crap. Block good with 150 then we use a 2k primer. Block 320 then 600 da or wet then seal and paint. Polly crap goes bad when you sand spray again block do it again. Show cars come out 3 months of a year but i know on a daily driver in 2 or 3 years crap be cracked to hell. Best primer is the Ppg vibrance 2050. Super thick sands ruff but its good and only 190 a kit with 2 hardners.
@@jeffwoods5336 I was going to use the vibrance on my chevelle for the first time .. Strip if down 3 coats body work .. Then what do you suggests, I want it super straight? 🙌
@@jeffwoods5336 I have always had a bit of trepidation about this spray on bog - 40-years ago there were similar products (no doubt better these days) and in my experience - HMMMMMMMM - I never trusted the longevity. My preference is to get the surface 'near to perfect' as I can - then PPG or SPI sandable epoxy. Not sure - but to me - using a single product such as the PPG or SPI sandable epoxy that is more unlikely to crack should produce a better long term outcome. In my opinion, laying on thick spray on bog (yes - most should be sanded off again) could be introducing issues for down the road - and making sure that the stuff is not built up too much on edges or in gaps can also be an issue. Show car - occasional trailer to the show - could be fine - a dark color car in 365 day of the year use - I prefer to err on the side of caution and not cover the car in spray on bog. I am sure that many have used it successfully - but I prefer not to 'gamble' on the long term outcome with this type of product. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
it claims this can be used as a sealer for base
+Jon A If you watch Episode 14 of Hands-On Cars - How To Paint a Car - you can see Kevin use the Eastwood Epoxy Primer as a sealer before spraying the Boulevard Black Basecoat and Show Clear on his Camaro. ruclips.net/video/Gvkj-xZCqjw/видео.html
Hey Kevin. What dun are you using to have a 2.5 orifice? Just a mild search but haven't found a 2.5 for the concourse pro.
spray guns direct has good ones cheap ANI brand starting at about 50 bucks italian made
The link to the product doesn't work. Could you update it?
good
Can you use acetone to clean the poly primer once ready to seal it?
What kind of primer is this suitable for metal? GOOOOOOOOOD MAN
I’m having trouble with my filler getting hard in the gun need help on what I’m doing wrong
What prime are you using ?
Or is this a joke because if it is a joke. It's a good one.
How do you stir the contour primer? The gallon I got from you, is extremely hard to stir. In the bottom of the cab it’s like goop and will not stir up no matter what
It can take a while to stir, especially if it's epoxy primer. You can try a paint shaker, or call an Eastwood Tech to discuss. Tech # is 800-343-9353. Here's a paint shaker: www.eastwood.com/rockwood-pneumatic-paint-shaker.html
Why does eastwood sell this stuff but they don't sell a gun that has a 2.5mm tip as he says he is using in the video. Not easy to find a 2.5mm tipped gun the biggest I have found was 2.0.
dude your on the internet.... for chrissakes it took me 15 seconds to find this: www.amazon.com/TCP-Professional-Gun-auto-Primer-metal-Regulator/dp/B001NOU92G
You need at least a 3.0 ml gun to shoot this stuff properly. You also can thin it down using acetone to help it through a smaller tip. This stuff is awesome to finish off bodywork and be ready for a nice smooth light coat of primer surfacer to prep it for paint. Great video!
Sprayguns Direct ANI brand start at about 50 bucks they have everything
good job
can I paint that Contour primer surfacer in my garage without making a big mess thanks.
Did it make a mess? I want a 4 year update xD
whoever is in charge of the subtitles needs to watch and understand the content...courts?? cmon.
that's alot of sanding afterward.. LOL
The better prep the better finished product
@@Japanunfilter indeed
That's what blocking a car is, a lot of sanding. How else do you think the body panels are corrected in a restoration? This process is usually done twice.