Spray Foam Insulation for old wood Buildings
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- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2024
- Spray foam insulation is the perfect mate for the old vintage homes of rough cut lumber and balloon construction. Before there was plywood sheathing homes were squared and wrapped with rough cut boards.
This video discusses the simplicity found in applying SPF to the inside of the these old leaky buildings.
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Thank you for the education. I was beside myself with excitement when. Saw the title of this video.
I have a 100 year old home that I am renovating. As the video started to play I got so excited. Your explanation of the old house reno
Oops tapped the wrong button. So to get to the point. You answered all of my concerns but one for this home. We have the original lap siding but no backer material. The painted lap siding is nailed directly to the studs. In this situation how do you insulate?
Thank you
1. You take the risk of applying to the siding and know it is never coming off without wrecking it.
2. You spend time internally applying plywood into each stud bay and then using closed cell after. This will allow the siding to be independent from the foam.
I like # 2
@@SprayJones mike
Thank you for taking the time to reply.
I have recently learned of your channel and have learned much.
I'll give you food for thought, since you asked one of the questions I had, my home in Indiana circa 1850 has 5in lap siding, nailed to the studs, this makes it structure, I will insulate directly to it, and use vinyl covered steel siding after.
Great video, those old homes I agree should only have closed cell. I have done strange renos where the homeowner wanted blown insulation inserted into these walls, very difficult to do and took forever to drill 4 inch holes on the interior wood sheathing that was behind the plaster walls. The sheathing was also 4 inches thick.
I totally agree
This is my garage to the t. Predates my house by a long shot. I'm redoing it next yr but I'm starting with siding, tyvek, new windows and doors, and then I'll tackle the inside. I'm hoping.i can afford spray foam as it seems like the best choice for an old building. Problem is it's a 30x30 garage with a loft so I can't imagine how much that would be.
Thanks for this video! This is exactly relevant to me with a 1900 construction in Boston. The rafters in the attic are rough cut and it’s super well built. We just had a brand new 50 year warranty roof installed and the spray foam insulation guy I talked to recommended R38 open cell to fill the rafter spaces and R20 open cell to fill the walls. And then he recommended closed cell R20 for the exterior walls in our basement. Do you agree with his assessment?
I know too little about your project.
However, closed cell is always the right choice for added structure and the water resistance qualities.
Boston gets Noreasters and that alone is a reason to upgrade.
I love you and I love spray foam I wish I could get in a business
Love to get a couple answers from you regarding my own 1 1/2 story old Farm, post and beam.
- My current wall envelope ( first floor) after removing all plaster/lathe is from the inside to outside 2" thick x12" wide or so Rough cut boards with a 1/4" gap between them. Some type of tar paper and clapboard and then Asbestos shingle over that.
Would you suggest simply spraying the walls exactly like you sprayed the roof ceiling in this?
Seems the outer shell has plenty of breathability.
Fantastic video by the way, thank you very much.
Yes that is how we would spray it. Direct.
Appreciate all of the videos and all of the effort you are putting in to them.
Wondering if you could address spray foam in log cabin homes?
Thanks for all of the information.
Thanks for watching. What about log homes? All there is to do is the roof and I have 6 videos dealing with roofs and SPF.
But I am always open for suggestions.
@@SprayJones does it work to insulate the walls in a log building? I was thinking of furring strips and 2 or 3 inches of spray foam to the inside of the logs, either tongue and groove boards or sheetrock to cover it.
I just didn't know if it would be similar to a brick building or if the logs and spray foam would interact with each other differently.
@@davidstiegelmeier2740 It will work fine. What you suggested will work.
Excellent.
Thank you! Cheers!
Great video, here in Australia I've got a place from the 20's with just softwood siding direct to hardwood studs with nothing in between,is there any option for a release agent or something to keep it from actually adhering to the actual siding?
Yea
How important is cleaning dust and grime off the surfaces of these old walls to get good adhesion? In many of your before photos everything looks as clean as new construction, I'm wondering how much work there is in the preparation.
Quite.
Dust is the biggest inhibitor. Just vac it out or blow it down and then spray.
Are there any consideration for 100 year old house with a slate roof?
Had a company come out and told me that he would have to spray something to cover all of the gaps, then the spray foam for insulation.
Also when this is done should the insulation in the floor of the attic be removed?
Hi Thank you for the video. I'm renovating a 100 year old home in South Florida. The home has cedar siding nailed directly to the 2x4. There is no plywood, wrap, etc. On the inside there was lathe and plaster, which has been removed and will be replaced with drywall. I think in your video you mentioned that you would not spray directly to the siding. If that is correct, do you suggest covering the interior siding with roofing felt paper and then spraying the closed cell? Any thoughts or suggestions. Thanks again.
You need something well fastened in the wall cavity, ply plywood nailed in place. That way the SPF has a solid backer that will not move and shift while the application is happening.
The foam can bond well, but only as well as the substrate will allow...
What product do you put on the stud face before spraying?
They use packaging tape.
Hey there, watched your videos on insulating cathedral ceilings and I'll be doing that for sure. now as far as my walls go, I have the siding onto my balloon framing, and then on the inside I have the wide planks with lath and plaster directly onto it. I'll be removing the plaster and lath so that electrical work can be done. To spray foam those walls, should I be furring out the walls with dimensional lumber to then sprayfoam 2" onto the wood planks. In that case I would maintain my airgap for my wood siding? Thanks in advance!
Whenever possible we get tight contact with the substrate. Creating a cavity behind the SPF where water can sit is not wise.
You need someone with some building envelope experience and SPF knowledge to help you out.
Wooo!!
As you showed In the video, do you foresee any problems with wrapping the exterior of a building with XPS and spray foaming the interior of the walls, incapsulating the wood sheathing?
What about ISO on the exterior instead of XPS in the same example.
Belinda carr i believe did a video on the pros and cons of different foam types. And if i remember correctly polyiso is the least favorable choice due to it's effectiveness varying greatly due to temperature swings. That would obviously depend more on what climate youre in, but i being in arizona will probably decide against that. Other than that, the other point brought up is the extra penetrations being made to secure whatever else you're strapping to the walls allowing more airflow. The airflow of course being the main detriment. But negated by the barrier created by the spray foam. I hope that's helpful.
Nope. The exterior needs to be protected and the interior needs to be sealed. If one side fails to live up to their end of the workload then yes, issues will be forthcoming.
Awesome videos!! Couple questions are the studs shinny because there is packing tape on them for cleaning? Also, why do other companies “picture frame” the stud bays with foam, but in your videos the installer seems to go side to side only- is it just preference or is there more to it?
Tape yes
Preference yes
Pre picture frame or post-frame.... their choice.
@@SprayJones Question regarding packing tape and prep of an old house before applying spray foam: Is it necessary to prepare the old roofing boards and rough cut 2x4s in any way? The studs and roof boards in the attic of my 1900 New England home had fiberglass insulation stapled in. After gutting, there are leftover staples (lots!), loose dust and bits on the 120 year old boards, etc. Is there a benefit to cleaning the wood surfaces before spray foaming?
Actually I see your answer below, to @Sean Byrne question. Thanks for the video!
So i am redoing a 1895 farm house kitchen, its shiplap 3/4 with 3/4 deck board behind that, i am struggling, one foam man came by said it would not work to drill holes and foam it? He left, so how without removing both boards do i insulate? I have vinyl siding over old siding too? Any ideas?
One side has to be opened up.
@@SprayJones thats was i was afraid to hear lol wow, what about blow in, would that be doable with 3 inch wholes?
I would like to know if I wanted 3 or 4 inches of spray foam on my home would I need to do 2 passes, with 2 inches each pass or can they now spray the 3 or 4 inch all at once? Thank you for all your videos.
2 inches is the limit per pass for closed cell unless they have a specific hi-build foam. Demilec does, BASF does.
Thank you for the information.
Are any of the guys spraying the foam in these video's you?
Nope. Not any more.
Thanks for the video Mike. I’m currently rebuilding a 1910 home and have been thinking a lot about insulation as I’m wiring now. Originally I was going with the “flash and fill” system.... that was before I came across your page. I’m in Ohio where we get subzero temps in the winters and 90’s in the summer. What would your thoughts be with a 2”closed cell system and filling the remainder with open cell? I had rough cut 2x4 studs however I have furred everything out with dimensional lumber, and now have a 5.5” cavity. I would appreciate your input! Thank you.
We spray 2 inches closed cell and leave it at that. Watch the video on "how much foam do I need".
We have done 100 year old homes with 2 inches CC almost exclusively.
@@SprayJones thanks for the reply, I’ll definitely watch that when I get a few minutes. I have already redone my entire roof which also consisted of reframing some of the roof line, so I’m afraid that spraying the underside of the roof would be very complicated. Is there a system you recommend for sealing the attic space off and a certain type of insulation for the attic?
@@jordanbarns8690 he has a 4 part series on that.
@@richardmcdaniel4969 what are the titles? Or the starting video title
@@jordanbarns8690 find his playlist
Why do you work top down it looks like the foam sags down.
Depends on how the installer feels that day.
I don’t want to insult you but I am a voice freak and you sound very much like Kevin Spacey. Very weird hearing Keven Spacey taking about spray foam insulation.