Next time you do one, instead of that seal puller, just use a flat head on the lip of the seal! Much easier, you don't have to deal with the grooves on the input shaft that are just far enough apart so that you can't get a straight pull with puller! Love the 4th u-joint bolt!
Behind that gear looking thing is another seal which mine was leaking thru. You can change all the outside seals you want if that small seal is leaking it will always come out. I had that issue and I went thru a lot of seals before we found the issue. Good vid!
Man I wanna learn how to auto mechanic so bad I wish there was a shop I could work at on the side that would let me kinda just work to learn. I’m a millwright or industrial mechanic at a tubing facility in central Louisiana. Me and my fiancé have a little boy that’s 9 months old and we are a single income family. I love working on stuff and fixing things. Recently was having trouble with my vehicle and got it back to running right. They’ve cut my hours back since all this COVID stuff is affecting our selling of products. I’ve also looked into some online schooling just something to do when I’m off to further my knowledge. Possibly try to get a little side job as an entry level in the auto industry. I’ve always felt like the more I know the less people I have to call and the cheaper it is on me. Lol although my fiancé isn’t too happy with all my tool purchases. I’ve been watching all your videos here lately and started building my tool collection back up at the house just recently bought my first snap on socket set I understand the quality of them now. And I got me a sweet snap on ratchet just this past week. I’d love to be able to just come work with you guys and learn. Thanks for all the videos Clay. They are great. Love the snap on Friday videos with you and Hamilton. Usually always has me laughing at some point. God bless ya brother.
Good thing these guys are experts! Both Eaton and Meritor explicitly says to never use an impact to tighten the yoke nut. Good thing they torqued it along with the u joint bolts to spec! 🙄
I know you are correct and all (🤓) but just saying ive installled a few of these seals over past years all using an impact to install if youre just 11:54 careful enough you be alright lol
It is a very good idea to check the fluid level.Do this with my dad's 2001 Freightliner FL60 during every oil change.It is used for hauling used cars he buys from auctions a lot to fix and resell
Nice video as always. Word of advice from a liability standpoint. I prefer to use a new yoke nut everytime I do a seal and new u joint bolts/strap kits if not, then put some loctite on the bolts for insurance. Just my .02. Nice work as always.
Matthew Cox the guy that owns that truck is a tight ass bad ! Like don’t want to spend a dime on them at all we always use new parts on our stuff. Like this guy doesn’t understand why we even replaced that seal to begin with because he “thought it had a bad leak in it” ..... I️ was doing good to get that much work out of him ! I️ agree we should have tossed some locktite on the bolts tho. We were so happy to get it out of the shop. Tied up space for over 24 hours total on that little job due to that one nut.
Koon Trucking absolutely understand sir but I guess all the years working at dealerships has taught me I touched it last so I'm gonna cover my ass no matter how cheap the customer is! Liability is the reason I refuse to rebuild 5th wheels, anywhere I work I don't rebuild them, period. It gets a new top plate or I don't touch it! Just some food for thought.
I clean up around it with a metal scraper it’s for a grill but I use to scrape off big chunks of the crud around the pinion seal for ex. Then I hit it with brake clean and use a rillo pad that has that blue cleaner in it then wipe it down with shop rags unless it’s a nice new truck and good paying customers if the rest of the truck is clean I’ll go as far as using tub o towels to leave it shining I don’t suggest being that clean starting out cause if your on flat rate I doubt you’d be quick enough to do the job right and clean up that thoroughly and still have time to kill
I bet you never worked on big trucks at a shop. If you had to do that before repairs you would never get anything done. Then there is who is going to eat the labor to spend 1-2hrs of a mechanics time to pressure wash rears, trannys and engines before repairs. Thats another bill for 200-300 easy at a decent stealership....
The torque wrench should be used for that yoke nut. Torque it at 450ft/lb Youke nuts need to be torqued as well. Torque them at 110ft/lb. And never use six point head bolt on that yoke like this man doing at the end. Use always original parts and fasteners (should be 12 point bolt). That's how you do not know how to replace the pinion seal. I am sorry for people who clicked "like." They did not learn correct way to do this project. .............. I only like when somebody said: "Nobody likes dirty hole." :)
That was the nut that came on it? We have done a bunch of pinion seals just like this with ZERO issues so obviously there’s more than one way to skin a cat. Maybe you should start making how to videos and people can watch them so you can teach them your way of doing things but this obviously works just fine
Hey man you said it was a repeat truck. I was watching this and was curious if it was still a repeat truck since you put the seal in backwards. Not trying to start anything but we noticed this in our heavy vehicle class.
My truck has problem when I turn differential switch on I hear air does something but only one rear wheel spinning on passenger side. What can be the problem? What's need be checked or replaced?
Clay, I have wedged a bar on the frame to get that pinion nut off and pulled the truck because I was told my impact would beat up the gears in the pumpkin. Is that not the case? I am not a pro and I have to replace a seal. I would rather use the impact to be honest....
LMAO! Was doin one earlier today and was debating wether or not to do any filimg on it. Good thing i didnt, it would have been bad timing on my part lol
I like to Smack the Yoke with a Hammer on the Flanges after Tightening the Center Nut To Help Set the Pinion Bearing To the Race after the Seal Installation 😎 👍🏼 Good Job Guys
Hey I’m just wondering was the seal really leaking or was it the threads of that input shaft bearing retainer. I have seen a lot of those input shaft seals like that and it wasn’t the seal it was the threads cause of the crappy sealant that comes in the kit. I was just wondering. you might check that out
Phil D12 it looked like something had gotten up against it. Had a wire spot on it. Could have been the last guy that put it in dinged it ? Not really sure. I️ know it’s fixed as of now it isn’t leaking anymore.
Phil D12 either way it’s the seal. The seal rides on the pinion yoke. If there is oil coming from the threads either the seal is bad or the pinion yoke is worn and needs r&r either way you would replace the seal.
Saul TaMeZ on a meritor rear end if you look at the front of the input when he takes the yoke off it has a 13 mm head bolt holding the bearing retainer clip it holds the big nut that screws in to hold the front bearing in. Meritor sells a seal kit that comes with the big bearing retainer, seal, wear ring and a special sealant you put on the threads of the bearing retainer. Every seal I have ever changed it was never the seal leaking it was the gear oil seaping through the threads on the bearing retainer ring.
We have had a problem with the meritor axles that pinion bearing adjustment collar works it’s way loose and starts rocking and wearing the lock tab and oil starts leaking around the threads, poor design, they redesigned it around 2013-2014 and they don’t have near the problem.
SKW LOGISTICS 369 if it is in your power divider it will have to come off. I would want to open up that pumpkin to ensure there’s no metal in there. If it is in the rear axle housing you can change it but I would still want to open it up and flush everything out to be sure no metal shavings or bearing material is inside. It isn’t going to cost that much and prevention is way better than spending more later on due to damage done by metal. Just my $0.02 but that’s how we would do it on my trucks here.
Many moons ago seen a chrome 2 3/4 socket come apart caught the guys wrist just right and for ever more that guys shop name was suicide / he made it thanks to a tourniquet
memopat1 ouch ! That isn’t good ! I try not to use them unless I have to but hard to own all those big impact sockets. My budget just won’t allow it ! Haha
I know this is a old video. But kimball midwest makes a 1 inch impact that dose not have the long shaft and weght 7 pounds it is bad ass. About 850 bucks
if you guys work on your trucks often and don't have one you should consider a oxy torch kit. after a couple mins of heating that yolk nut would have come right off rather than waiting an entire day on pb blaster. also those yolk nuts should be replaced there considered 1 time use. but a successful repair is a good repair nice job.
Fix It Up 219 probably but a oxy acetylene torch is one of those things i went without for years then after i got one i wouldn't be without having one in the shop. a lot of the time a plumbing torch just wont cut the mustard.
Problem is your choice of non impact socket and allowing the yoke to hammer freely back and forth against the ring gear..Didn't need to set the proper torque back to ensure proper bearing wear eh. Prostar probable isn't still on the road after 3 yrs anyhow..
Suppose to put a new nut on the yoke once removed. If nut doesn’t budge use a blow torch bc it’s probably the original from factory and they used red lock tight. Might as well replace yoke and u joints.
Авто/Мото
Thank you guys for the work you put into the seal replasment .my respects.
👍 👍 Great video, like how you taped your struggle too, as opposed to making it look like a quick and easy job
Great videos guys. I learned something new from you today. Thanks
Next time you do one, instead of that seal puller, just use a flat head on the lip of the seal! Much easier, you don't have to deal with the grooves on the input shaft that are just far enough apart so that you can't get a straight pull with puller! Love the 4th u-joint bolt!
Behind that gear looking thing is another seal which mine was leaking thru. You can change all the outside seals you want if that small seal is leaking it will always come out. I had that issue and I went thru a lot of seals before we found the issue. Good vid!
Awesome video guys, very helpful, thanks.
Man I wanna learn how to auto mechanic so bad I wish there was a shop I could work at on the side that would let me kinda just work to learn. I’m a millwright or industrial mechanic at a tubing facility in central Louisiana. Me and my fiancé have a little boy that’s 9 months old and we are a single income family. I love working on stuff and fixing things. Recently was having trouble with my vehicle and got it back to running right. They’ve cut my hours back since all this COVID stuff is affecting our selling of products. I’ve also looked into some online schooling just something to do when I’m off to further my knowledge. Possibly try to get a little side job as an entry level in the auto industry. I’ve always felt like the more I know the less people I have to call and the cheaper it is on me. Lol although my fiancé isn’t too happy with all my tool purchases. I’ve been watching all your videos here lately and started building my tool collection back up at the house just recently bought my first snap on socket set I understand the quality of them now. And I got me a sweet snap on ratchet just this past week. I’d love to be able to just come work with you guys and learn. Thanks for all the videos Clay. They are great. Love the snap on Friday videos with you and Hamilton. Usually always has me laughing at some point. God bless ya brother.
Wedge a braker bar against the frame and roll the truck. Works everytime
Good thing these guys are experts! Both Eaton and Meritor explicitly says to never use an impact to tighten the yoke nut. Good thing they torqued it along with the u joint bolts to spec! 🙄
I know you are correct and all (🤓) but just saying ive installled a few of these seals over past years all using an impact to install if youre just 11:54 careful enough you be alright lol
It is a very good idea to check the fluid level.Do this with my dad's 2001 Freightliner FL60 during every oil change.It is used for hauling used cars he buys from auctions a lot to fix and resell
+wafrederick yes sir we check everything on a service. Rear ends, trans and all the fluids. Even measure thread depth and psi on all tires.
So far,the DOT has not pinched my dad for anything and he does keep it maintained.
wafrederick that’s awesome !!
Good work nice simple to see what you need to look for just wondering what impact 1" did you use brand
thanks for the video
Great video guys
Nice video as always. Word of advice from a liability standpoint. I prefer to use a new yoke nut everytime I do a seal and new u joint bolts/strap kits if not, then put some loctite on the bolts for insurance. Just my .02. Nice work as always.
Matthew Cox the guy that owns that truck is a tight ass bad ! Like don’t want to spend a dime on them at all we always use new parts on our stuff. Like this guy doesn’t understand why we even replaced that seal to begin with because he “thought it had a bad leak in it” ..... I️ was doing good to get that much work out of him ! I️ agree we should have tossed some locktite on the bolts tho. We were so happy to get it out of the shop. Tied up space for over 24 hours total on that little job due to that one nut.
Koon Trucking absolutely understand sir but I guess all the years working at dealerships has taught me I touched it last so I'm gonna cover my ass no matter how cheap the customer is! Liability is the reason I refuse to rebuild 5th wheels, anywhere I work I don't rebuild them, period. It gets a new top plate or I don't touch it! Just some food for thought.
Thank you
I clean up around it with a metal scraper it’s for a grill but I use to scrape off big chunks of the crud around the pinion seal for ex. Then I hit it with brake clean and use a rillo pad that has that blue cleaner in it then wipe it down with shop rags unless it’s a nice new truck and good paying customers if the rest of the truck is clean I’ll go as far as using tub o towels to leave it shining I don’t suggest being that clean starting out cause if your on flat rate I doubt you’d be quick enough to do the job right and clean up that thoroughly and still have time to kill
Good job
Hey,thanks for video, I think I have same issue,did you had oil spraying to front wall of your trailer and back wall of studio?
Step 1,,,clean rear end with zep or a steam genie,,then start working on it,,,your welcome
I bet you never worked on big trucks at a shop. If you had to do that before repairs you would never get anything done. Then there is who is going to eat the labor to spend 1-2hrs of a mechanics time to pressure wash rears, trannys and engines before repairs. Thats another bill for 200-300 easy at a decent stealership....
@@tryduck6993 clean equipment makes more customers
You should have checked the yoke to make sure the seal has not worn a groove in yoke.
Did you make sure you’re rear axle was in sync with the yoke after you reinstalled it?
Satisfying seeing the numbers move counter clockwise slowly on the socket 😆
hey bud I like the tires on the truck what's the brand?
Greta vid!
Do u have a video on changing power steering pump on paccar MX13
all the play in the diff. i made a plate that bolted to the yolk and laid on the frame. solid no slop is the key
You're right. Getting the play out of anything you're using an impact on makes the impact far more effective
The torque wrench should be used for that yoke nut. Torque it at 450ft/lb
Youke nuts need to be torqued as well. Torque them at 110ft/lb.
And never use six point head bolt on that yoke like this man doing at the end. Use always original parts and fasteners (should be 12 point bolt).
That's how you do not know how to replace the pinion seal.
I am sorry for people who clicked "like." They did not learn correct way to do this project.
..............
I only like when somebody said: "Nobody likes dirty hole." :)
That was the nut that came on it? We have done a bunch of pinion seals just like this with ZERO issues so obviously there’s more than one way to skin a cat. Maybe you should start making how to videos and people can watch them so you can teach them your way of doing things but this obviously works just fine
What about the one on the back side of the front diff. How bad is it to do? I have an 08 Western Star
No torque wrench? What is the torque for the pinion nut and the U joint bolts?
map gas torch always have one in your box
Question is this on a volvo front differential?
Good shyt!
How long does a job like this take?and do you have to drop transmission for this job
Just did a output shaft seal on a front diff
i also mark the yoke and a pinion spline with a punch so it goes back where it was
It doesn't matter where it is. It stays in time with the forward end.
Why?
Pb blast is the shit I’ve used it and a torch or just one or the other whatever works every situations kinda different
Hey man you said it was a repeat truck. I was watching this and was curious if it was still a repeat truck since you put the seal in backwards. Not trying to start anything but we noticed this in our heavy vehicle class.
No the truck was “fixed” on the road at a shop. Ran for a few days and was leaking again so after we replaced it hasn’t leaked since
My truck has problem when I turn differential switch on I hear air does something but only one rear wheel spinning on passenger side. What can be the problem? What's need be checked or replaced?
Clay, I have wedged a bar on the frame to get that pinion nut off and pulled the truck because I was told my impact would beat up the gears in the pumpkin. Is that not the case? I am not a pro and I have to replace a seal. I would rather use the impact to be honest....
We use an impact all the time. If they don’t come loose we heat it with a torch
LMAO! Was doin one earlier today and was debating wether or not to do any filimg on it. Good thing i didnt, it would have been bad timing on my part lol
Talk about a stubborn nut!
Man it was a pain in the rear ! Had to edit out so much cussing in that video !!
I like to Smack the Yoke with a Hammer on the Flanges after Tightening the Center Nut To Help Set the Pinion Bearing To the Race after the Seal Installation 😎 👍🏼 Good Job Guys
Hey I’m just wondering was the seal really leaking or was it the threads of that input shaft bearing retainer. I have seen a lot of those input shaft seals like that and it wasn’t the seal it was the threads cause of the crappy sealant that comes in the kit. I was just wondering. you might check that out
Phil D12 it looked like something had gotten up against it. Had a wire spot on it. Could have been the last guy that put it in dinged it ? Not really sure. I️ know it’s fixed as of now it isn’t leaking anymore.
Phil D12 either way it’s the seal. The seal rides on the pinion yoke. If there is oil coming from the threads either the seal is bad or the pinion yoke is worn and needs r&r either way you would replace the seal.
Saul TaMeZ on a meritor rear end if you look at the front of the input when he takes the yoke off it has a 13 mm head bolt holding the bearing retainer clip it holds the big nut that screws in to hold the front bearing in. Meritor sells a seal kit that comes with the big bearing retainer, seal, wear ring and a special sealant you put on the threads of the bearing retainer. Every seal I have ever changed it was never the seal leaking it was the gear oil seaping through the threads on the bearing retainer ring.
Most of the time it's not the seal that's leaking
Hey bud good video but that yolk wasn't worn out ? It sure did slide on an off to easy . check for slack clockwise an counterclockwise .
Applying heat could have been faster.
Reverse the jaws on a 2 jaw gear puller
i must be the only one who power washes shit when im able to b4 i tear into something lol
Nope, i do too.
But its frowned upon as its seen as a waste of time.
@@skulz1974 But the customer will appreciate it and bring business to you for doing clean work!
Better to work on a dirty truck then a wet dripping one
y did not you use thread locker?
We have had a problem with the meritor axles that pinion bearing adjustment collar works it’s way loose and starts rocking and wearing the lock tab and oil starts leaking around the threads, poor design, they redesigned it around 2013-2014 and they don’t have near the problem.
Thanks for the help. So it can be replaced with out taking the entire rear end out?
SKW LOGISTICS 369 if it is in your power divider it will have to come off. I would want to open up that pumpkin to ensure there’s no metal in there. If it is in the rear axle housing you can change it but I would still want to open it up and flush everything out to be sure no metal shavings or bearing material is inside. It isn’t going to cost that much and prevention is way better than spending more later on due to damage done by metal. Just my $0.02 but that’s how we would do it on my trucks here.
Koon Trucking thank you so much, I will do that.
Heat, use some heat on the nut to expand it. Comes loose in seconds.
Heat it up to loosen
i work at speedco and Id say 70% of the trucks that come are leaking in this exact same spot. lol
Guess you'll never know if the PB wood have worked the first half hour
Hit with the torch till it gets yellow ish and then spin it off real quick
Or just get the PROPER tools for removal and reinstall....
@@tryduck6993 or u can quack off and go spend ur own money however u please and I’ll do the same.
My is leaking exactly same way. Is it ok to drive the teuck for another 1500 miles with seal leaking because I have to get back home to fix it.
Wojciech Gierczynski you kidding? Little leak like that you could drive 50k miles
Just check the level of oil and keep a check on it
Many moons ago seen a chrome 2 3/4 socket come apart caught the guys wrist just right and for ever more that guys shop name was suicide / he made it thanks to a tourniquet
memopat1 ouch ! That isn’t good ! I try not to use them unless I have to but hard to own all those big impact sockets. My budget just won’t allow it ! Haha
Koon Trucking
With out a doubt those big sockets cost big money
+memopat1 bad expensive
Your kooning is alright LOL!
i built a cup that goes into a 3 ton floor jack to support the driveshafts when bolting back in
Wonder why they did not just put some heat on that Yoke nut
What happened to the torque wrench?You should have torqued the pinion nut.
that powerdiver gears are probley worn
20$ for a new strap kit for the u joint. And torque the strap bolts
Heat it up
I know this is a old video. But kimball midwest makes a 1 inch impact that dose not have the long shaft and weght 7 pounds it is bad ass. About 850 bucks
How about proper impact sockets instead of chrome china crap...IT matters...
u shouldve gotten a 1 inch drive breaker bar with extensions and let Bill get to work
if you guys work on your trucks often and don't have one you should consider a oxy torch kit. after a couple mins of heating that yolk nut would have come right off rather than waiting an entire day on pb blaster. also those yolk nuts should be replaced there considered 1 time use. but a successful repair is a good repair nice job.
five minutes or so with a hand held map gas torch prolly would have done it
Fix It Up 219 probably but a oxy acetylene torch is one of those things i went without for years then after i got one i wouldn't be without having one in the shop. a lot of the time a plumbing torch just wont cut the mustard.
@@Ezrider359 that's why I have a set mounted to my pickup truck bed...
would the torch wreck the 'heat treatment' of the pinion? similar to steering parts
@@MsForrestj depends on how hot you get it,... But ur just heating the nut to loosen tq just enough to break loose
Is this the hotty totty bbq guy?
Problem is your choice of non impact socket and allowing the yoke to hammer freely back and forth against the ring gear..Didn't need to set the proper torque back to ensure proper bearing wear eh. Prostar probable isn't still on the road after 3 yrs anyhow..
Woodnt it have been easier to put just a little heat on it
Just a ??? Why didnt you heat the nut to take it off ..i always heat the nut and poof its off..woulda save yall alot of time...
My Milwaukee 3/4 18V and 56mm socket took my 21 years old International right off
Lol is that tib music in end of video
Can that bearing be replaced with out pulling the third member? I have play at the yoke.
SKW LOGISTICS 369 to get to the bearing you will have to pull the yoke nut off
SKW LOGISTICS 369 your powerdivder gears are worn out
Heat that nut up lol
Suppose to put a new nut on the yoke once removed. If nut doesn’t budge use a blow torch bc it’s probably the original from factory and they used red lock tight. Might as well replace yoke and u joints.
Heat isnt needed , just proper tools...
Well, I'm no engineer, but if I had to guess, your problems loose less torque with a chrome socket than an impact one lol
You’re making this video too long you should’ve just heated it up with a torch
Righr? Litterally everytime I change one of these out I have to use the torches lol
Maybe u shouldn’t buy your impacts from harbor freight
Heat it up