How to INCREASE SPEED on your e-bike CHEAP!!!
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- #RADPOWERBIKES #RADRUNNER #FASTEBIKE
BOOSTER -
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MIRRORS - www.amazon.com...
HEADLIGHTS - www.amazon.com...
TAIL LIGHTS - www.amazon.com...
TURNSIGNALS - www.amazon.com...
DOBLE BUTTON SWITCH - www.amazon.com...
SINGLE BUTTON SWITCH - www.amazon.com...
SADDLE BAGS - www.amazon.com...
Super simple and effective. I need try this. I recommend you get a voltage meter to measure actual battery voltage so you know how much juice you got left.
Thanks! That’s right bro! I need a voltmeter ☝🏼
Your amperage will drop by half though, so hills will not be good.
One does need to be careful about using these. Some of these boosters output a brief but high voltage series of spikes each time they are initially connected to the battery. So until you determine if your booster does this, it can be a good idea to have a switch that electrically disconnects the booster output from the controller (and other electronics) that will be connected when the bike is in normal use. After the initial voltage spikes (if any) settle down, it can be connected to the rest of the electronics. In *general* it is the cheaper boosters that produce the aberrant spikes, but expensive is not a guarantee of quality.
So your saying is that from the battery to the booster you should have and on switch but have a another switch inline after it so that you do not fry the controller and turn the controller switch on once the booster is booted?
So what mileage loss did you get? I have one of those units and there is a loss of distance. It works good on flat land but not in the hills.
Because most of the controllers in ebike output 40 amps but this boost converter ups the voltage but lowers the amp. So you will see a decrease in the torque but your overall top speed will increase.
Be careful your using a 12 fit controller capable of 1000watt nominal. The rad runner is 500 watt motor already over-volted to reach 750watt. They do this to use the same motor (sell) Canada 500watt, Europe 250watt and USA 750watt. They save money this way rather then putting a different power motor in different markets. It’s a con but a legal one as the motor will nominal at 750watts. You are well over that and shooting straight into the universe of unexplored territory with this motor “where no man has gone before”. Indeed if specs are correct if you go over 750watts for to long you will burn the wiring in the hubs stators which are not gauged for the heat a 12 fit controller delivers. How long can you go? Who knows? Not me I’m not an electrical engineer. However let us know how it goes! Call it an experiment. Feel the hub after you ride and see how hot it’s getting. To hot will also melt the plastic gears. Good luck man! Again let us know how this goes!?
Daniel Lopes Thanks a lot! Yeah! I heard about that. Always checking temperatures. And all test results will be in the next video.! Hopefully everything will be okay 👌🏼
Actually the word nominal is from "named" it's whatever the manufacturer named it to be. Hopefully it's somewhere equal to or greater than the continuous rating.
Yeah the manufacturers play with this but the consumer is usually the beneficiary not the victim getting a more capable motor than the lable says.
I always thought nominal was some synonym of normal or average but it's just what's written on the rating plate.
@@ghz24 Nominal is not just something they named. It actually is the power that any motor is designed to output continuously for some period of time without issues or rising temperature.
@@sfk1991 What is the root word of nominal? Name.
Yeah nominal should be continuous power dissipation but literally it is what they "name" it.
The first definition of nominal is " existing in name only".
@@ghz24 Yes it derives from latin nominalis but my point is , that it not some random value manufacturers naming their stuff. It is much more than that. And actually it is an accepted approximation value based on the continuous power actual value which the motor can safely operate.
i had this idea for years glad to see am not the only one ,i hit the like n sub ya ,there only 1 bigger then that one but with a black board ,that one is a buck converter 30A 90v rated , oh if you want higher just pair them together to make 60A 90v but that can get tricky
Sacrifice the torque and just pedal
The booster used here will kill that battery, because as the battery runs down it will crank up the amperage to compensate and since it doesn't self-regulate, it can end up pulling more than the battery's ability to deliver, causing thermal runaway and rapid degredation. This can result in catastrophic fires!
NEVER charge or discharge any battery, especially lithiums, without using a proper charge controller!
I have a 15000watt brushless motor with 48volt kit and 22amp, I put a 52volt battery on it and it charged up to 58.48volts , and im getting 38mph top speed, without and extras , just a bigger battery
You’re right bro. I did that like experiment. And it’s way cheaper. But I agree with changing the battery 🔋 for higher voltage and more amp.
I WANT TOO DO THISSSS
awesome! i think thats around 40mph, some speedometers arent really accurate
Can u tell me if the stock controller and components can handle being overvolted woth this booster? Your other video shows the stock FETs can handle 100v but I can’t see the capacitor ratings and don’t know if the led display unit, headlights etc can also handle the higher voltage.
I envy your skill set.
Great design and well made.
Really good idea, it will only work if the battery cells have very high C discharge rate
Planet 360 thanks! It works. Just a bit less power.
@@electricpower8130 now you need to get another battery and conect it in parall and then up the voltaje
Planet 360 They are very expensive. Can’t afford it right now 🤷♂️.
@@electricpower8130i now . have you heard of lbry.tv?it is like youtube but decentralizedand you get paid much more than youtube. have a look
Planet 360 no. I’ll check. Thanks
Your using the controller (12mofit) that Juiced bikes uses on their Hyper Scrambler and Hyper Scorpion. Those bikes run with the 1000watt powerful MACmotor. They’ll go all day long and generate little to no heat.
Yeah. Better 1000w for this controller. I can't afford it now.
The Hyper Scorpion does not come with the Mac motor. I wish it did though.
The funny thing is, the Mac motor and the 750w bafang are the same price.
Cheeky, If only that Booster could supply a bit more current, then you'll need to start worrying about temps.
Great videos man!
replace the fuses and add some fans, if ya wanna make it brutal go for 2 24v fans with correct voltage supply and check for sufficient airflow
@@flosa1995 its hard limited by the fets ability to supply voltage and current (+the whole buck/boost circuit), not the cooling.
@@JamiePineappleWyatt
Got 2, 1 with 20A and one with 40A
Both look the same, just different fuses
May be a brand thing then?
@@flosa1995 check the mosfets under the cooling solution, the resistor network will probably have different values too
Hi @ElectricPower the first regulator of the step up modul is the input voltage and not temperature! Now to my question: what is your original voltage from your battery? Did you change the controller for example 48v controller to 60v? Or you did not change the Controller? Thx for answer
Hye . Sorry .
Are you running the booster straight to the motor or you run it through the controller . Tq 🥰🥰
Through the controller obviously
Hi hope you showed it also step by step how did you connect the Dc booster from your ebike and will more helpful from the viewer like me to learn it☺️
Marvin Santos I can’t. Sorry. I already deinstalled my booster. Bike for sale right now.
I took a 36v 20a and made it 67.7v 10.6a.. 45mph no load, 35 with 110 lb person (me). Heat sink and fan are ok. Give it room to breathe in your case 💯💯💯
Sorry to disturb you. Did you wired the boost output to the controller or straight to the motor.
For ex:
Battery - Controller - booster - Motor
Or
Battery - Booster - Controller - Motor
🥰 tq
@@ninjafishing7120 I did Battery - booster - controller - motor, been riding about 200 miles with this set up so far, no issues
@@ninjafishing7120 oh oh, I am also using a 1000 watt rear hub
Andre Newton lets say the controller is rated 48v and push it to 65 vots . Is it going to make change to the speed of the motor ? 😻 thanks for your kindness
Andre Newton im planning to load it on my Inflatable boat 😋 . Now im working with Brushed motor .
After this wanna push 2000w brushless motor with 1200w controller .
What do you think ?
this gave me an idea as my 48v 1000w kit only does 27mph max but not sure if my 1200w boost converter would handle the amps ? i have a 48v 20ah battery as i rigged a dc power analyser up to the battery and it peaked to 4kw when i press the accelerator with no pedalling ? wft could be miss red not sure
controllers max voltage is 60 current battery voltage at full is 54.6 i think but drops under load
Yeah! Just change your battery. You need 60V. And you’ll get your 35 mph. And don’t forget to change the capacitors fo 100V one!
@@electricpower8130 changing the battery would cost me nearly £400 here in the uk . it would work with a booster but i need to find one that can handle over 2kw or i could just buy 2 then set the same voltage output then put the boosters in parallel to get double the current output at 58v ? i could try that . then if it doesn't work out or they burn out then i will have to buy a 60v 20ah battery but it will be pricey though lol
@@danielhorne6042 oh yeah! You could try two of them. It’s gonna be very interesting 🧐
@@electricpower8130 look for x-go 48v 20ah battery on google that's the one i have . the one that slides onto a rack on the rear of the bike with a key switch and it uses Anderson 50A connector
i have a question for you can i use a power booster to regenerate extra power from my front wheel dynamo hub 6v to 40v in order to help my 40v battery? can i connect them in parallel? thanks a lot if you can help me and thanks for the video
just curious how you wired it up ,it looks like,ebike battery into a 36 to 12 volt down vonverter then the 12 volt goes into the boost converter up to the 60 volt approx ,that right isnt it. If so thats way off the mark, should leave the 36 to 12 volt down converter out ,its a bad bottle neck and only allows 10-15 amp max ,remember the less voltage difference you need to boost the less current is required so converting 36 from battery up to the 48 to 60 would be more efficent.and have lower end losses
Any links to these add ons? What MOSFETS did you use? Schematic? Hard to understand????
Great video.
Question, my battery is 48v 20ah. My controller is 48v 20ah. Manufacturer upgrade from 20ah b/c none in stock.
Will this combo work? Heard it could damage battery. I use PAS too when riding.
Hope you can help.
/Bklyn👑
This is really F'ing smart! Just made an ebike and i've thought about alot of things but never this.
I'm no electrician or... anything xD but i wonder if those "boosters" can handle the high amps that a high wattage motor needs. Anyone can answer that?
I think my motor/controller pulls 19 amps by default (waiting for usb cable to edit the controller settings, bafang bbs02b 750w) and i'm using a 48v battery. So i i'm wondering if these boosters can be set to 52v and "pass" those 19 trough (maybe more, controller should be able to handle up to 25 amps). Nice video, really cool idea!
Thank you! It works really good! I thought about amps. I don’t remember about all specifications of that booster. But it should handle 25Amp.
Do not use this on a mid drive, you will be sorry.
@@bl3627 Yeah i don't think that i'm going to mess with this for a while. If i get to a point where i will upgrade then maybe i'll try a few things with it ;)
@@crispy-k What I did is make a dual motor system, which seems to work pretty darn good. I have a direct hub in the front and a geared hub in the back and when I am on a straight or flat I use the front to get to almost 40 and just use both for the hills around my area or for quick take off. I can get from Stevenson Ranch to woodland hills and almost all the way back in 1 charge using 3 10AH batteries in parallel.
@@bl3627 Hmm the idea of 2 motors is interesting although i won't need that, the bafang 750 is good enough for me, i can get to 50kmh on flat, and god enough gearing to climb some small stairs. How do you get both motors to communicate? Or have you just made custom levels with programing cable to get them to run the same way?
Hi
Very nice video
Dose it convert input 52v to out put 60v ?
Yes
12 to 48 volt convert . Okay. But what happend the ampere
This won't really increase speed under load if using the same wattage how ever if your controller doesn't automatically drop the max amp output based on voltage you likely can output more wattage this way. Also it may run cooler motor wise since your using less amps to produce the same amount of watts. But regardless of voltage if your using 4000watts it doesn't matter if that 4000 is at 52v or 72v it's going to propel a load at the same speed. Not when not under load it likely will produce a slightly higher rpm but soon as you put a load on the motor things change.
I’m a newbie but would like to increase the speed could you explain this easier?
@@echospace7347 i think he means UPhill.
Is that small black box a heat unit?
Does the booster over heat ? I’ve had that problem with mine
RZ I didn’t have any overheating with mine.
I use it on my bike but it's hard for it to go up hills
W1500 motor
Because it’s just to increase your speed. If you want to go uphill faster. Change your battery for 60V and capacitors. You can watch my other video where I’m upgrading 35 amp controller. After that bike can do wheelies uphill 😎
Thats cause this unit outputs about 15 amps your losing almost half the amperage to boost the voltage. This is good for flat land use but not hills.
friend how did you do with the issue of amperage because my engine here is without power to start and turns off when accelerating?
So I have a Uber scoot 1000 it's 36v and I just happen to have the 1800w DC to dc boost controller so would I be able to up my voltage to 48v using the stock motor and controller? If so what kind of out put gain would I probably see?
So normally yes it will work... For top speed it will be better of 1/4 .. so if you go 20mph you will go about 26mph ... And so o.
Ive been having that same idea of using a voltage booster instead of adding batteries. How many amps is your booster rated for? That thing has to get smoking hot...yeah?
i think he's using a 1500w or 1600w booster that's rated between 30 to 40 amps
He's using a 1500w booster rated at 30 amp input but only like 22 amp output. On the sight it says 30 amp output but in reality the maximum is only 22 amp. This was confirmed by certified tester ROBOJAX. You'd be surprised that this booster does not get extremely hot, you can pick up a 1800w model that has extra thermal paste and ceramic capicitors that reduce heat substantially. But if you are going to push over 1000w I recommend you get a extra pc fan or some kind on fan to help with cooling
@@str8xrippin i saw the instructions for this 1500 watt unit and i think for 12-30volts output the max amp input is 30, and for 31-90 volts output the max amps drops down to 25 amps input, but there is a huge catch: with stock cooling you should never sustain more than 15 amps input if you want it to last more than a few hours/uses. my numbers could be off a bit, but there basicaly two ranges of voltage to amps ratios, but you have to add better cooling to even use it as it is spec'd, kinda a scam if you ask me
@@jasonbrown467 yes you're correct. The less voltage the more amps you can pull. I was specifically speaking on full power that was constantly attainable. I wouldnt really call it a scam cause it will function and do all most of what it says it will but yes there is a catch and thay catch determines wether or not it will suit your needs. For people less knowledgeable that buy this yes it is a scam becuase they will expect more than this can deliver thus rendering it useless. Just some old marketing tricks i suppose
Do i need to change the controller if i install a n step up boost converter? I dont want increase to much voltage. My controller is 26amps 48v 500w.
Did you have that hooked up between the battery and controller, or between the controller and the motor?
It would have to be between the battery and controller because that booster cannot control the phases of the brush-less motor. It only has a 2 wire output and the motors have 3 wires.
@@bl3627 ok, thank you!
@@jungblud59 Your welcome.
Is that controller your holding in your hand (the one you say in the vid says 63 volts) the original controller on the Rad runner? I thought the Rad run runner was 8amp nominal at 12 amp peak. Please answer this question. If that controller in your hand came of the Rad runner I will buy one tomorrow!!! Please let me know. Thanks man!
Daniel Lopes I’m holding Bolton’s controller which is 35amp max 17amp nominal. Original from RaD is 8 nominal and 17amp max but it should handle 52v battery very easily which Is around 57-58v.
Cool I gotta get one but maybe 25amp on electricworld.com I’m so conflicted! See the 35amp is fast but hella battery use. Trade offs always these trade offs! Get one thing lose another. Man that speed is crazy though! Well thanks for getting back to me man. Appreciated!
Daniel Lopes no problem 👌🏼
Surely its better to just do a shunt mod, or just get a better controller..?
Better is to get a proper controller.
@@electricpower8130 yeah, with my soldering skills I darent attempt it anyway, just neatened up all the wiring on my build (built it yesterday, but wiring was annoying me) and wow this 1500w with a 52v battery on is a little flying machine, it's great fun and now it almost looks factory built...
I'm well happy, but yeah I'm gunna get a sabvoton controller and a ukc1' display as my damn Voilamart kit didn't come with a display so I'm not sure how fast I'm going and I can't set it all up correctly, still shifts like pretty quick though..
I have a 24 volt controller and i have 2 36v battery packs in series for 82v when fully charged and ive had no problems...went from 20mph to 42 mph
Does anyone know a link to a step down converter to bring 109.2v down to 84volts so I don't blow the 100v caps in my speed controller? I plan on using two 48v battery packs in series, if anyone can help it would be much appreciated! :)
You may encounter an issue wiring them in series as some BMS may safety cut out due to excessive voltage, the 13s BMS is expecting 54.6v max and pushing 109.2v through the second in series unit might trip it. It may be absolutely fine but just something to consider
I'm at the shop and I'm gonna be very clear in my complaint and I was wondering if you would be able to help me with the specs for a electric bike with a tft ukc1 color display and a sine wave 80 amp controller with a nb power 3000 Watt hub motor
Have the same setup can not get the display to work
بطارية كم امبير تحتاج
When you comnect it from from your ebike would there any issue about the DC BOOSTER Like overheating...
Marvin Santos No, nothing.
I really like your upgrades that you did in your bike I have addmotor M-60 R7 I want to know if I get an upgraded and that would be happy to pay you a little bit of money if it works for you please let me know thank you!
Mexicanos X Nueva york Thank you! So you want me to help you to upgrade your M-60?
okay this is my email you can text me over there Ren.gar8@gmail.com
What's the name of the bike
does this harm or burn your controller if used a long time?
yes it will
depends on the controller, it may or it may not, some bikes are 36v but can take up to 80v, its pretty rare though that they are overengineered like that
I'm getting a max of 16mph on my runner, once I hit that speed the bike seems to slow down and can't reach higher, any tips?
J O do you have a display?
@@electricpower8130 Yes I do, but I can't see an option to increase speed, I only see the option for wheel size
try this, should be the same. ruclips.net/video/YBaKiNl8DUs/видео.html
@@electricpower8130 I'll try. Appreciate your help. Thank you!
J O no problems. You are welcome!
Speak clearly please
If I could just understand what the hell he is saying and doing???
FanOfOldFans feel free to ask
How could you do this on a cheetah electric bike?
you can do it on any bike but as long as the boost converter board can handle the load and never go above the max rated voltage of the controller and also if the battery is big enough like 10ah or 20ah otherwise it wont last long
Did that change effect the distance the battery lasted?
it will reduce the range as the battery has to put out more power to provide the power at higher voltage
Are you losing torque?
gabriel diaz Yeah I think so. But just a little. 10% maybe.
ElectricPower can’t wait for the results
ElectricPower streets look familiar, are you in LA?
gabriel diaz They’re will be soon
gabriel diaz Oakland
Wow. The expert whose module needs the fan on the heat sink yet he sets it flat on a smooth desktop, choking it. This is snake oil.
It was just to show it
that unit comes with posts that elevate it when it is mounted.
Nah
Mumble
Yes this doesn't work at all
Why?
du not change de controler broo , 500 wati= 40km/h 1000watii = 60km/h , etc, etc, on motor 500 wati controlar 800wati or 1000 wati it ok.
Hi, are you sure that is not neccesary to change the controller? My e scooter is a 500w and the (controller 48v 26amps 500w). If i buy an boost converter and i increase for example 4volts is it ok? Or can i try it maybe 54v? Think about it when 48v battery is 100% full then is 54.6v so then would be 58.6v if i increase 4volts! Let me know thx! And can i connect two batteries on one boost converter?
@@emiricco2304 quote : ''controller 48v 26amps 500w'' is not 500 watts it is 1248 watts ... that said your volts and amps you mention might be maximum and not constant rating ... :-)
Just a bunch of mumbling waste of time
My e-bike ado spedd max 67 kmh battery 48/20amper controller 25a kt step app da 20amper 1200watr da 54.6 volt step app 72 volt spedd max 67.5 kmh e effettive kmh 55 kmh really my ado top top top