How to speed up your Rad Power ebike! - Complete guide: Motor, Controller, and Battery!
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- Опубликовано: 19 июн 2024
- This video explores the various ways that you can get more speed and torque out of your Rad Power ebike either by upgrading your ebike's motor, controller, battery, or all 3!
Clips were used from:
Rad Power Bikes promotional videos: / radpowerelectricbikes
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Big Game Bikes: / biggamebikes
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John B: / @borntogetbusy
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good vid. i built my ebike for less than half of this ones cost, and i control how fast it goes lol. 1500w 48v (fed a 60v diet) i pull my trailer at 45mph . but i use an NBPower 50a controller and a home built pouchcell battery with a 100a bms. it has power for days ! my wifes lil trike would eat this poor thing . hers is a 36v 750w front hub , with a 40a controller and 48v battery. my point is if you are some what handy with tools and can read , you can build your own for so much less. i have built 3 thus far and still dont have as much invested as the price of some prebuilts , and i know how to repair and maintain mine! great vid ! keep'em coming!
Fantastic video, well organized and explained. Thank you!
Thank you much! I appreciate it
Actually the 35 amp controller and display when programmed correctly allows me to get to 31mph with the stock motor and battery on my rad runner. Btw that’s with my 6 ft 240lb frame.
Thanks for the info! It's so weird 90% of the people I hear from say they get 25mph maximum from the stock motor but there's that 10% of people where I hear they get much faster. Just curious, what year did you buy your Runner?
Winter 2020
@@surjracer56 Really odd. I don't know what settings that you're using differently then. 🤷♂
I just followed the directions from electrobike world
Unless you’re testing it with an actual speedometer app, the display isn’t fully accurate. If you raise the dimension of your tire in the settings, the display will show you going 30mph. I believe I have mine on 24 and the max it says I go is 25mph.
Super useful, thanks!
Wow you just answered all of my questions!
Very informative, Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it, thank you!
Amazing video, thank you 🙏
Thank you!
great info man thanks!
Thank you!
i have an early rad rover, and mostly ride around 18 mph. i'm also a bmw r1100 pilot that routinely clocks in 3 digit speeds. i don't ride ebikes to go fast, but this IS an interesting post as many folks are interested. if you want to go fast on an ebike you need more voltage. volts= speed, amps= torque. i'm an engineer that has studied this.
Great video, it would be great to see a video on how to make an Aventon Soltera go faster. I would really like to get a higher top speed beyond what you get when “unlocking” it. Thanks
Very helpfull video...nice relaxing voice over too.
Thank you. Glad you liked it!
Nice one 👍🏼
❤👍
Nice video
Once again, nice voice. Grr. Also, nice video ;)
The clearest explanation yet. thank you, If i install a new motor could i put a freewheel with if for my single speed radrunner
You would need a new chain
I bought a 350watt Gear motor factory made Mukkpet E bike. Goes 20mph and ride continuous of over 15 miles or more. My CKit ,2000wstt goes up to ,40mph but a DD gearless can only go so far on high throttle of 3 to ,4 miles of the motor cutting off to cool down for a few minutes. I took my 350 watt Gear and added my 2000,watt gearless to my 350w to use as a Turbo Booster Hyper Drive. I can now go 40mph non stop of my 10 mile commute on my 350watt gear. Not really a Dual AWD, more of a 350watt gear motor e bike with a 2000watt Turbo Booster. Very practical and efficient of power and performance.
Heck yeah that sounds like fun!
Nice video explaining everything and I see your Radrunner+ has the controller upgrade, does it also have the motor upgrade since your motor cable comes out on the left side of your bike just like my 2020 Radrunner 1. I was thinking about doing the 35amp controller and display upgrade. 😊👍
Thank you! Yes, I did the motor upgrade a few months after I installed the 35a controller/display. The wiring comes out on the brake rotor side so I had to lace in the motor instead of just swapping out the core.
prime case of asking youtube for a penny and then being handed a pile of gold. amazing video!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
I'll keep mine at stock Speed. I don't want to stress the motor. But this is awesome info. Thanks!
I can definitely understand that! 20MPH is more than enough for most riders.
You potentially lug the motor by limiting its power though
Great Vid, I just purchased a Rad Runner plus and is interested in a future up grade to a 35 W controller ,I see that you did that to your bike, how difficult was that to mount and rewire your unit , any tips and feed back would greatly be appreciated
Thank you! The 35 amp install was a pretty simple. Area13 has a short guide that I followed that quickly goes over what it all entails. ruclips.net/user/shortsSu5ya8P-o0o?feature=share
I've been running with a 35A controller for about 3500km now, currently debating whether to upgrade the motor (either true 750W, or bigger!) or replace the battery (which is down to about 60% capacity) with a higher voltage pack.
One point that I don't think has been made before is that all brushless motors have a kV rating, which indicated how fast they can spin for a given voltage. Most of the Bafangs have a similar rating, regardless of rated power output. Folks who are reporting bikes hitting the 25mph limit are seeing the motor spinning as fast as it can for a given battery voltage.
Yeah, it's not really brought up a lot. Grin recently came out with a video about putting a Frankenrunner on a RadRunner that has great info regarding it! ruclips.net/video/sL3bjQZGjoQ/видео.html
I found a new project called freebeat's Morph 2-in-1 e-Bike, and it seems really interesting! The outstanding feature is that it can be charged when you apply indoor mode, which is unique and convenient. The Morph eBike also offers an impressive 80Nm torque and reaches a top speed of 20mph. The 80mm front suspension and puncture-resistant fat tires ensure a smooth ride in any condition. Additionally, with the Smart Saddle Detection+ feature, it provides valuable performance insights and keeps you motivated during indoor and outdoor rides. This innovative blend of fitness and technology is definitely worth considering!
Very very informative!! Also you have a very soothing voice. You should start your own channel
Thank you I appreciate it!
Great presentation, keep up the good work. What is your perfect ebike?
Thank you, appreciate it! That's a really tough choice.. 🤔
Great vid. You seem to say that the only display working with the stock controller is the EggRider but many LCD displays can work with a 3rd party 35amp controller. Is it true? Can't those LCD displays also work with the stock controller?
The LCD displays that I mentioned are programmed to work with the 35a controller but aren't functional when plugged into the stock controller. It would be nice if they were more plug and play but I guess there's more to it than that.
Have you a video on how to upgrade the motor on a rad rhino 6 plus by any chance, mine is restricted to 250kw in Ireland and has really poor torque up hills as a result.
From what I hear, the motor on the EU Rad bikes is the same motor from the US/Can versions.. is simply the controller that limits it to 250watts. So many in the EU simply buy the Eggrider that "unlocks" the wattage and lets you run at the motor's full potential. BigGameBikes.com still has the Eggrider last I checked.
Can you add the egg rider if you have the lcd display?
Great informative video
Are you referring to the RadRunner LCD display upgrade? The Eggrider will replace that display and plugs into the same cable it normally would.
Indeed! One more point to note is the lighter the rider, the faster it can go as well!
Great point, that's true as well. I briefly mentioned it when I quickly mentioned tire PSI and terrain that you're riding on.
Area 13 has a good upgrade setup for the radrover
I have an eggrider and it's fantastic.
I don't think I've come across anyone who wasn't happy with purchasing one! Great upgrade!
I live in Canada. My rad runner plus was delivered with a 500 w motor. If I get the egg adapter will this provide me with more torque ? I'm wondering if I should just upgrade my motor instead.
The motor itself is the same 750 watt one that they sell in the US, it's simply the controller that limits it to 500w. So if you get the eggrider or a 3rd party controller you should be able to get more torque out of it. I hear most people are happy with the extra torque and the same basic speed with the stock motor (32-37kph).
...and then there is the changing of the freewheeler cassette from 14-32 to 11- whatever, to end the ghostpedalling in top gear. That is one of the best mods, without interfering in the electronics.
That's very true, looking back I suppose I should have mentioned the freewheel/chainring upgrades. Guess I was too focused on electronics lol
What was the motor that you put into your Radrunner+? Could you share a link?
Sure! It was a G062 Bafang 48v 1000w motor I purchased here: eunorau-ebike.com/collections/hub-motor/products/bafang-fat-bike-48v1000w-rear-hub-screw-freewheel-motor
kinda wish the trotle isnt limited to 6 kmp -on the radrover plus(eu) would love for it to be set at 15 kmp - 6 is way to low .to cruise with -for the rest ist an awsome fatbike
I can definitely understand that. From what I hear, the Eggrider is a popular add-on in the EU that lets you set the throttle beyond that limit.
Hi, I have the European version of the rad runner plus, which is more limited than the US version. Do you think that buying the egg rider will make any difference??? Thanks
From what I hear from those in the UK/EU, the Eggrider makes a HUGE difference in acceleration and top speed. Especially since it should be the same motor that is sold in the US and Canada and it's simply limited by the controller, an Eggrider would fully unlock this limitation.. just have to be careful.
@@ElectricRidesUT thanks for your reply ! When you say to be careful, you mean not breaking the connector while plug-in the egg rider, or why ??
@@nicolasporta1 Sorry, careful as far as not getting caught maxing out the motor's wattage, speed, and throttle settings. At least that's what I heard is more regulated over in Europe.
My DIY electric beach cruiser has a 1000 W motor. It’s Max speed is 28 mph. Scary fast!
I'd like to see that! Wear a helmet!
@@ElectricRidesUT It’s a rally sport Electra fat tire beach cruiser with ape hanger handlebars. I bought a Chinese DIY front hub 1000 W kit and a 48 V 21 amp battery. I did not install the pedal assist sensor. So all I use is a thumb throttle. Yes I’m gonna have to start using a helmet. I’m 62 years old and I’m on prescription blood thinners. It could be a disaster if I have a fall.
@@billj9838 Sounds pretty sweet! Definitely get a good helmet! Gotta protect that lid. 😂
I'm having this issue with my new Radrunner +. During the first week it would pick up speed fairly quickly and after putting in the Tannus liner and plugging the rear motor back in it doesn't have that same quickness to it. I used to be able to climb a slight hill while pedaling in PAS 4 no problem but now struggle and putting it in PAS 5 doesn't seem to much better. Even when on flat ground and just engaging the throttle doesn't feel the same either. When I first got the bike I went into a different menu and it showed "prgrm 1253" and now it displays "1053" Any idea what these codes mean? I'm charging the battery for a full 12hrs to see if that will help. Anyways any help would be great thanks! Great video I'm considering the 35A controller and display...
I'll have to look into those codes, doesn't immediately ring any bells. I kind of had the same issue after I upped the max speed on my Runner+. The first ride after I raised it went great and got 25mph consistently the whole ride. I took it home and parked it. Found the next day I had a flat so I put slime in both tires. I thought the added weight on the slime slowed the bike since I only got up to 23 ever since. I've heard from a good number of people similar stories, enough to tell me it can't really be a coincidence. Definitely recommend a 35a upgrade or Eggrider for that torque!
Ive heard the Rad controller is more efficient than the Bolton etc upgrades leading to shorter battery life beyond just the extra power used for going faster. Also pure sine wave vs modified sine wave has come up.
I would imagine that there is a slight range reduction with the 35a controller but I haven't personally noticed a drastic difference between it and stock
This is why I decided to just save up for an Ariel grizzly. I love the rad look but it’s too slowww. When I say slow I’m more talking about torque and acceleration.
@@joker-sh5hv The Grizzly is also twice the price.
@@joker-sh5hv Awesome! The grizzlys are a pretty good deal, dual battery and dual motor.
Of course the factory controllers are more efficient.. they literally cut the motor off at certain speeds instead of allowing the bike to run at full power
ill haft to check that Egg rider out cool😎
Many people I talk to say it's a "must have"
@@ElectricRidesUT looks like it 👍
I have a rad mission bro, what's the best way to make it fly
The RadMission was really designed for pedaling with some assistance, much like EU ebikes. You can get more torque out of it and slightly faster motor only speeds (Around 25mph max usually) with an Eggrider or controller upgrade but with the single speed drivetrain and smaller motor it can be difficult to get anything faster.
I changed tire size and changed speed to 40 kph and disconnected the cable to the controller and covered the pin with electrical tape to dsiable the speedometer but my top speed remains 20 mph. Why can't I get it to go faster?
If you have the LCD display screen on your Rad you wouldn't need to cover any pins in a cable. That's something that some people who have the basic LED display (with no screen) have had to do to "unlock" their speed. What ebike do you have?
We purchased this Vivi 27.5” electric bike and a Tentaquil 26” electric bike for our 13 and 14 year olds. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxUiL0GnyDjP32RJdd660sP8mZk4CRLTCJ The Vivi was much easier to put together. With the Vivi, there was a video link to assist with assembly which made the process easier to follow (we did put the handlebars on upside down, but it was a quick and easy fix). With the Tentaquil, the assembly was not as simple to follow, but after we messaged the company for an assembly video, it was easier and they did respond quickly. The other major differences were that the Vivi has a grip throttle on the right handle (like a motorcycle) and the Tentaquil has a push throttle that you use your thumb to activate. The monitors were also different, so if you’re looking for something specific in terms of changing the bikes functions, pay attention to what the monitor offers. We were really impressed with the overall quality and functionality of both bikes, but if you’re looking for more power and an easier assembly, definitely go with the Vivi!
Ok this you/me shouldn't do this.I have a radcity. My controller appear to have gone on the fritz so when I peddle most of the time it goes derectly regenerating charging, if just use the throttle I can go. So while playing with it I reset the controller from 28 in tire to 20 in. It appears go alot faster than 20 my display show 0 mph the I can still get go up 1 to 5 assist and do get odometer reading (wrong cause of tire size) but I definitely going over 20 probably less than 30. When I installe my new controller I reset correctly.
I block the speed limiter on my RAd Rover 5 so the motor doesn't cut out using electrical tape
I've heard of people doing this hack on RadMissions and RadRunners since they don't have a display but I haven't heard of it on a Rover - do you lose the speedometer readout?
can the eggrider use MPH? and ship to usa
Yes, from what I've seen places like BigGameBikes.com ask you to specify which version of the Eggrider that you'd like, such as wheel size and speed measurement.
@@ElectricRidesUT thank you for the response!
@@jonappleseed5270 Anytime! Thank you
After a year more speed is sensible......need hack 1..... I've memorized all the streets that I use and I'm not having any problems with bumps 24 mph downhill pedaling Sofar
Anyone have a speed hack on a Rad Mission?
If it's like the RadRunner 1/2 - there is a trick that involves putting electrical tape over a few motor connector pins that tricks the controller into running the motor at full speed (25mph-ish max). Not sure if it works on the Mission.
@@ElectricRidesUT Thanks! I’ll look into it.
Here in the U.K. you can only get the 250w
the speedometer made no difference to the speed so just a waste of money
Any one try with a radcity ??
I've seen people use the Eggrider and 35a controller upgrades on older RadCity models but hear the newer 5 plus models have issues.
@@ElectricRidesUT ohhh copy copy that I have two 2018 radcity and looking to get more torque out of my daily commuter radcity
@@Nhanny108 You won't get the same amount of torque that a geared hub motor would get with the upgrade but an eggrider or 35a controller should improve it quite a bit
Posted this bad idea somewhere else in the thread. Long story shorter. Reset your controller to a smaller tire size your odmeter/speedometer will be wrong but you will go faster. My guess is definitely over 20 but probably less then 30.
I have a Radcity 3
I got the 35amp controller with color display from bolton ( area 13), it sure works, almost too good. Suddenly 1680watts feeding 500w motor, big power upgrade on my radrunner. I felt it may be too much for my bike, one could loose control on a turn or start off, or burn up motor perhaps. I replaced it with the 25amp controller (1200w output), everything the same, wiring easier, more room. Used lowes double sided outdoor tape to adhere to metal plate. Seems more manageable on power, still go up hills, but little slower, but makes it. Electrobikeworld sells the 25amp and display. Get the 25amp and mono display and save you $$$, over 35amp and color display. And considerable more power over stock hardware. I set C5 setting option 1, for easy start using throttle, up to full power. Makes for easy take off and full power of 1200w, instead of full power of 1680 watts on the 35amp controller. I was using 75 percent of power on the 35amp controller, so not to push limits of watts pushed to motor, Using the 25amp controller, C5 set to 1, its a better setup, that suites me.
Great suggestion! The 25 amp controller is a great option as well, you can tune down the 35 amp down so you don't have the jarring torque, but yep, why do that if you can just get the 25.
In response to his battery claim "if the battery meter has 2 bars out of the 5, does that mean I have 40% battery, or 21%?". Why would 2 out of 5 bars ever equate to a 21% capacity?
On a 5-bar battery gauge (depending on the gauge), if we assume 1 bar equals 20% charge 2 bars would indicate 40% battery remaining. However, the battery gauge isn't precise enough to tell you the exact percentage it will still show 2 bars the whole time that it drains from 40% to 20%. Until the charge level hits 20% (1 bar) the gauge will still show 2 bars regardless of the actual percentage. Some gauges are different percentages per bar or zero bars.
Don't give to hoots about speed.... How about more torque???
done all these upgrades
Rad Runner 1 ...find it on my channel ..
1000w new motor geared
35amp controller
52v 24ah bat
stock brakes and stock chairing
what the speed ...28mph no struggle ......30mph on perfect conditions of fresh bat smooth flat road low wind and not too hot or cold ...ive hit that couple of times but as said it struggle to get above the 29 ...28mph where it loves to idle on
what range well 52v left after doing 20miles all throttle up and down hills ...46v when it low ...so maybe 50/60 mile range
Awesome! I will definitely check that out!
The easiest way to do this is to Just buy an Ariel Rider X-class or a Grizzly... By the time you change all these components you will have spent more anyway....
You're definitely right there. As the saying goes "The cheap comes out expensive" .. not to mention the time and effort putting into the changes. 😆
It's too heavy to be fast. It's an increasingly tough battle to power it fast and far
That is true depending on how much you want to pay and what you consider "fast"! 🙃
@@ElectricRidesUT one can purchase a regular hike with 135mm axle spacing bike used/not new, put a hollow tech II crank on it for under 500$. Then they could get a 500 watt rear hub kit and torque arm kit and battery off Amazon for like 600-700$.
So you are wrong. A faster more capable bike can be had for cheaper. The problem isn't how much money you can throw at 'it', the problem is knowing bicycle maintenance and willing to DIY a little bit
@@ElectricRidesUT I have a 18amp controller and a 53-46v battery and haul a bike trailer. Bike loaded weighs 35pounds maybe, trailer would be 40-55pounds. I can get up big big hills with no issues with just some pedaling but still it'll climb on it's own.
Your tires are robbing you of, what is, 'preicious watts'.
Its total bullshit these hard to pedal, heavy ebikes. Thy aren't a bike(in terms of usability) and thy are the Lowest Their offering from china. It's a 'screw the buyer' sort of purchase.
Truth is, NONE of the parts on that are worth a damn. Not the heavy frame, chain set.. people ought learn
Could you please speak up somewhat when you're doing these voice overlays of your video because it's kind of hard to hear you I have my phone at max volume and it sounds like you're whispering it doesn't do that with other videos so it's got to be you
Buy a bike put a refrigerator motor on it bet you run fifty five easy
I'd love to see that happen!
Rad Bicycles costume service is useless. I have a battery charging problem and the help desk is incompetent! Literally no use at all!
this guy wearing mask all by himself in a video is hilarious.
I'm sorry the way you're presenting your information is hard to watch. It's like you're talking in to a depression filter. Good info, but I can't watch it.
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