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I'd add some extra categories: 1)How does the deployment mechanism affects the ergonomics, 2) reliability in adverse conditions and 3) ease to maintain in working order. This is less important for urban areas, but during a long hike or if you work in remote location and your selection of tools is limited it may affect your choice. 1) So, liner-lock doesn't affect ergonomics, but frame lock does. Compression-lock makes majority of handles not so comfortable for cutting through tough stuff (Shaman is probably is the only exception). Majority of back locks are ok, but not all of them. Cross-bars and buttons are usually fine. 2) In muddy and sandy conditions back-lock variants (including triad-lock) and some ATFs can stop working. Liner and especially frame-lock knives are less prone to that. Axis-lock subtypes are ok too. 3) Knifes with liner-lock/frame lock are usually very easy to disassembly and clean (often you don't need disassemble a knife to fix stuff). Back-lock types require a (tiny) bit of more of attention. Some Axis locks are pretty hard to maintain (it's not like you need to do it often if at all). This would not make much difference in overall rating. Popular locks are popular for a reason, so they will most likely keep their rank, with liner-lock going up one step, maybe.
So glad you did this video. I've always been on the fence about axis locks Which has hindered me on wanting to buy one. I've been getting tired of liner locks and never wanted frame locks as I just see them the same as a liner lock in my OWN OPINION. But I am a complacent person with everything and just stick to what I am familiar with for probably too damn long. I stopped using back locks because my hands are big and bulbous and I death grip the fuck outta everything. I hulk strong grip even my pens and pencils (hello hand cramps).... Because of my grip, I always tend engage back locks. Even some liner locks if my grip shifts when using. This has opened my eyes alot now and now I wanna pull the trigger on buying my first axis lock knife Thanks so much for doing this man
One thing about the Benchmade omega springs is that I never saw this flurry of complaints about broken springs until the Bugout came out. It almost always seems to be the Bugout that people are complaining about online. I wonder if they went with a thinner one to help shave more weight off this ultralight knife. Doesn't seem like they would have been able to salvage much but something seems different.
It's just the attitude of people towards some things and usage statistics. Knives (esp. folders) as a hobby are more popular now and more different people use EDC-type ones. Old-timers of knife community were more nerdy, so repairs and parts' change as they break weren't considered an issue. Aside from that, fidgety stuff is a relatively new thing. People used to operated the lock when they had to deploy the blade and use it. And that's not needed like 200 times a day. Recent flurry of complaints is also due to pandemic. It's harder and takes longer to get spare parts, especially overseas.
I think it mainly comes down to the popularity of the lock as a fidget device. People love to fidget with their knives, me included (I open and close my Adamas a lot). The springs most likely break when someone is rapidly swinging their blade open and closed, that paired with such small springs that quality control can be iffy will result in some people breaking their springs and then crying on forums about it. I don't abuse my Adamas and the lock as been 100% reliable and have yet to break a spring.
@@CertifiedSunset Yeah I've had Benchmades for years and never broke a spring, but I also don't fidget. Maybe doing it rapidly is like when you bend something back and forth quickly which heats up the crease until it weakens and you can break it.
@@JustKnifeThings Think of it more like a paper clip, you can bend it quite a bit, but if you repeatedly bend it at the same spot then it's strength will degrade until it breaks.
I have one test for knifes lock strength: Can you stab it in the wooden table and not be afraid that it will bend/break and cut your fingers. If you afraid of that, or have that small weird feeling behind your head "what if..." dont use it, go find other knife. Also small note: Most of axis locks have two omega springs. chance that two of them fail at the same time are... small, very very small. I used one with one spring for two weeks as I wait for new one and it lock perfectly.
I bought several nice knives starting with Kershaw and then going to Benchmade. Because of my lack of experience to start with I stumbled into and bought several liner lock knives and would sell them in a heartbeat! The reason is I am left handed and have to switch hands to close the knife blade. Not a huge deal but over time it's a hassle. It's like having a striker fired pistol and having to switch hands to simply lock the slide. Last non-ambedextrious pistol I'll buy as well! BTW, I have a couple of liner or compression lock knives for sale if you want them...
I think that the back lock presents the same difficulties as the frame lock and the liner lock. It is only because of the abundance of the last two and because of muscles memory that we find them easier to manipulate. In fact, I will say that with a good positioning of the back lock, a user (not a fidgeter) will have to adjust his hand position less than with the other two. When it’s at the back of the knife, then, it’s almost strictly a two hand lock.
Back Lock FTW every time. Nothing in the way, super simple, adjustable, super strong. I always use two hands regardless of the lock type. I like my fingers too much to flip some razor sharp blade near my fingertips.
@@scottburns5242 I call bullshit !! I've NEVER had an omega spring break on me in the 20 plus yrs I've been carrying an EDC knife. You say that you've broke several? I'll need a better explanation than "I do a lot of fidgeting" to believe your story. What knife was it? How often or how many time's a day do you open & close your knife? You'd have to show me the broken springs for me to believe your claim.
@@pauldayton5285 fidgeting with a mini onslaught I’ve broken 2 omega springs. I haven’t broken any in nearly 10 years either, because I stopped buying knives with that shit lock.
@@mr.crumbles2557 why? Just to be a hater & repeat something that they've heard from somewhere else. Why are you spending more money buying gas station gonzo knives for part's to fix your Benchmade instead of getting new springs from Benchmade directly for free? Your story sounds super suspect too !! Why would someone lie...🤣 Are you kidding me? 🤣
I appreciate the video. I've had several liner and frame lock knives and I've never 100% liked them. I just don't like the disengagement and how you need to apply some force for a full lockup. I was just given a Benchmade knife that was left at the gun range I'm a member of that nobody claimed for a few weeks. First knife I've handled that locks like it. Didn't like it at first but after playing around with it for a few hours it's grown on me. Only thing I don't like about it is I've broken a spring similar to this one (not spring assisted but the one I broke was assisted) and it was a liner lock knife. I took it apart, tossed the spring, and used it for a little while without the assist since the lockup worked fine, but again you need to apply some force for a complete lockup. I ended up putting it back in the box and haven't used it since (Had that knife on me for maybe 8 years). I'll have to keep an eye out for a tri ad or shark/scorpion. I'll also keep an eye out for a OTF automatic or gravity knife. Reason for those two is, PA's Governor Wolf just made fully automatic knifes legal :) Will be on the books in a few days from now.
The AD20.5 is such an amazing knife. I have the model with 3V blade steel and was lucky enough to even get it on sale. The shark clock is by far my favorite locking system, and when given your overall quality of the build, as well as the ergonomics on top of everything else… I have a hard time finding another knife as good at that price point. It also fits really nicely in the pocket because it’s pretty slim. A+ all around for the Demko AD20.5.
They just released a new AD20 variant, the AD20s. It’s grivory for $275, g10 for $350, the blade stock is thinner and the blade steel is only D2 at the moment. Oh and the actual lock mechanisms are made in the same factories as the AD20.5s. The blades, hardware, and scales are still USA made.
Forgot about the Safety factor.. Thank you for covering this topic, I've been on this kick for a while. People lose their shit when I share my opinion on frame/liner locks.
Wished balisongs/butterfly knives were also included. For good well made balisongs, I would rate it as : Strength: A+. No way it will fail by normal human means if both handles are held. Ease: D to A. Highly depends on practice. Dependability over time: A-. Might have some tap or play over some time, but does not affect strength significantly. Maintenance is quite easy. Options/Availability: C. Most are either very good, high end expensive balis or cheap horrible gas station ones. There is not much middle ground.
A=4, B=3, C=2, D=1, F=0 Compression lock & axis lock = 3.5 Frame lock, TriAd lock, & back lock = 3.25 Otf pin lock & shark lock = 3 Liner lock, plunge lock, & bolster lock = 2.75 If you remove the availability score, you'd get a different picture as far as performance goes, however I realize that availability is an important aspect. What good is the best lock in the world (which would be the Shark lock in this case) if you can't get your hands on it? I think the otf pin lock should have scored lower on availability since they are illegal in many places but I'm nitpicking. Interesting video as always.
@@KaPPy83 Availability in general doesn't have anything to do with the functionality of the lock. My point about OTFs being illegal in many places was simply that they aren't as widely available as other types of knives. Most dealers won't ship them to states where they aren't legal. That was all I meant.
Right, but we all know now that in order to properly use a framelock, you have to keep your fingers off the lock bar, which makes them function almost exactly the same.
I’ll tell ya one thing I found about the compression lock that makes it the worst lock…at least for the type of work I do. Dirt and grinding dust gets in behind the lock and makes it impossible to lock.
Very nice! Ant lock? I have found that if I take the triad lock apart and gently file it with a diamond file and add some grease it works wonderfully well. With practice to scorpion lock has become very easy to use, both opening and closing. My two favorite locks are the compression lock in the liner lock.
Living in the desert, we have “Blow Sand”, and it’s bad for all folders. The worst is the axis lock. Dropping it means a disassembly before next use, Even in windy conditions, I’ll find the lock bar gritty.
I wonder how the new WE Vision R would be for desert "blow sand". The knife is apparently designed to be easy to clean. Just use a dry lubricant like Tuff Glide so it can't gum up and maybe keep some canned compressed air to blow it out?
@@silverslvr5185 - Guess you'd need water then. From what I've seen said you can apparently rinse the Vision out directly to clean out fruit juice I don't doubt it would flush out fine dust just as well. That's just an assumption though as I haven't been able to handle the knife directly. Kinda want a WE Vision 'cause I really enjoy my Demko Shark lock... while different mechanically... the user interface shares similarities... and a easy rinse fidget knife appeals to me. As far as easy to clean knives folding knives go... have you ever had your hands on a CRKT Homefront? That all said I can easily see why you'd adopt the K.I.S.S. approach and just use fixed blades. But... this is still a fun thought experiment. Until someone designs a completely self contained sealed knife pivot that is...lol.
There are a few more locks that have emerged since you did this video. One is the Deadbolt Lock on CRKT knives. You should do this video again. Love your channel. Thanks
This is seriously the best knife channel on RUclips. So far the axis lock has been a complete winner for me, I have had a Benchmade Adamas for around 8 years and it has seen some hard use, still just as solid as the day I brought it home
I feel like It may have been better to compare knives of more similar price points if possible. If you take a more poorly designed mechanism and throw enough money at it in terms of materials and crafting details it will make for a better experience. I feel like if you took steel frame lock that was the same price as the Rat1 the answer would be different and thats why I would involve a value category. This category would acknowledge an overall user experience at various price points (mainly cheaper price points). Are you getting a quality lock at a good deal or are you needing to spent lots of money before the lock becomes good quality. I feel like the frame lock is a perfect example as quality of life improvements need to be added to improve the mechanism. People want overtravel protection, a steel insert, maybe a finger rest or guard so you cant apply pressure to the mechanism. At that point a bunch of money has been put into it to basically turn it back into a thick liner lock. Also deployment should be a separate category as you didnt even touch on one of the main complaints of the frame lock about the awkwardness of your finger placement. As a whole liner locks tend to be easier to deploy than frame locks since you dont have to worry about putting unwanted pressure on the detent. But the shark lock or axis lock for example are even easier to deploy since you can entirely disengage the lock mechanism and the blade can be free floating during deployment. Then I would make unlocking and folding separate since in the case of the frame lock I would say its just as easy to disengage the lock as a liner lock maybe barring the note about overtravel. I would take a liner lock over a frame lock any day just because I feel at knives in my price range the liner lock would rank higher in durability, ease of use, and even dependability. Someone over traveled one of my frame locks and I cant get it back to just quite how it was and a liner lock is more dummy proof. I feel like the liner lock on a we knives banter would give a hinderer frame lock a run for its money at a third the hinderer price tag. Maybe a better comparison than the rat gonna be honest. Compared to the triad lock it makes sense why the liner lock would be ranked C. Most other locks from what I have seen fail at pretty much the same weight on the spine from testing videos so besides the locks designed for torture the rest of the mechanisms generally would rank the same. Thanks for the video it was fun to think about a lock mechanism tier list.
I just enabled notification, sorry I was late. THIS is a subject close to my -heart- scars on my hand. Locks MATTER. I had a frame lock and a liner lock collapse on me when I was using them improperly. Yes, I admit I’m an idiot, I was trying to do something stupid, like enlarge a bolt hole in a fence post to save myself walking back and getting a drill. Note if anyone else is as dumb as me, liner locks and frame locks can be released accidentally if gripping the knife hard with your hand and working it in a manner it was not intended. 😎👍🏼🤣😱
Personally I don’t think the “D” was too harsh on the Axis lock at all, if even one of the two springs break then your “A” for strength becomes a low C or even a D. I also own multiple of them, broken both springs in the BladeHQ 20CV Bugout I have in less then 9 months being one of my least carried knives. Just my opinion, too many other truly great knives for me to ever waste money on one of them again.
Had an Omega spring break on a Benchmade 710 Axis Lock, simply bought some spring wire of same thickness at craft store, shaped new Omega spring by using the other unbroken spring as template to follow bends and installed. Worked 100% with equal tension on either side of lock. How did it break? Was idiot flicking it back and forth in rapid open/close position - basically heated the wire up like working a steel cloths-hanger until it broke. Lesson learned, have not done that since, those same knife springs are still 100% over 10 years now.
@@thaknobodi Thanks for the reply, I am familiar with many semi auto firearms and most of those use a coil spring or two of some form. Please enlighten me as to which styles of firearms use an Omega style spring for rapid use bolt cycling etcetera, (not magazine releases or safety catches) thanks again in advance.
Please is there a way to do an actual test of like silicone hand holding the knife and applying pressure ever so slightly to the lock mechanism with the grip and to see if it would close in the hand and how much damage it would do to the hand
Metal Complex, I agree with you that the Gerber Sumo is the greatest knife of all time and that 7Cr17 MoV is the greatest steel of all time. Thanks. Kref
Heck no, that's just waiting to fail. Get yourself a well made frame lock, axis lock, or compression/backlock. Framelock still holds its strength even if its messed up because of your hand. Triad lock, made by cold steel is unbeatable.
Axis locks really all have to do mostly with the omega springs how strong those are and how long the knives tang is and how far in the axis lock goes into the tang the bugout is a stronger axis lock than the hogue deka.
You didn't include one of the most important topics: "Dependability in dirty situations". Will the lock jam up if dirt is introduced, and if if does jam up, how easy is it to un-jam it?
That's a 45 minute video by itself. It's also been thoroughly... And I mean THOROUGHLY discussed here on RUclips over the last decade. Cedric and Ada, DBK, Gideons Tactical and many, many others have done in depth videos on all of it.
I don't know how you can rate the crossbar (axis) lock above the compression lock in terms of strength. I love both, and would say they are equal. Both of the Demko locks are stronger than the axis, so the axis lock really should be a B, along with the compression lock.
I have had already an Gerber EAB liner lock not fail but yes fail since the blade got all wobbly up and down. That was after 2 or 3 years of use. The surfaces where definately not hardened. Then I have in use an Coast DX126 now for several years which has an liner lock as well but is working flawless with about 1/4 of chew through. I talked with Coast and they say their surfaces on the liner is hardened. So that makes the difference. My Karambit has an frame lock. The secret for liner lock and frame lock is that you DO NOT flick it open. You open it both handed half 3/4 ways without the detend falling off the blades back end where it locks. Then you hold the liner open on pressure while you fully open the blade. That way nothing jams into then locking surfaces and you guide the liner lock slowly towards the blades locking edge. That reduces a big time the wear on the surfaces. Which eats into the locking surfaces is flicking the knife open since the liner jams into the blades locking surface each time with velocity. Buttom locks I do not like since I have a el cheapo multi tool knife set with an button lock which wobbles like crazy. Best anti wear would be an liner lock or frame lock with inserts on both ends which can be exchanged or this autoadjusting Tri-Ad lock which is an back lock. That is for longevity.
Great overall rankings and rationales behind said rankings. My only real difference with your take is... I’m more forgiving and would give the Triad and Back Locks a C for Ease of Manipulation. ;) IME, “repositioning” of the hand for a Triad/Back Lock is only marginally more involved than with say, a Compression Lock... it’s just that the fidget-factor with a Compression Lock is soooo much higher that it begs one to play with it much more and thus it becomes second nature and one develops excellent muscle memory just gets very highly skilled with it. Triad/Back Locks are just boring to use so they don’t naturally encourage endless fidgeting and thus most folks just don’t gain that muscle memory that more fidgety locks tend to produce. Plus, using the tip of the thumb to close a Triad/Back Lock isn’t ideal (and will definitely make closing it clunkier). Using the inside/side of the thumb is the hot ticket and increases Ease of Manipulation for sure, IME. Great vid as usual.
There’s a store I live near in Columbus that always has them and I got my ad20.5 and it’s good steel plus the shop offers lifetime pro sharpening for free when you buy any knife from them
Excellent video, my friend! Your ranking system makes perfect sense to me… I also become attached to my knives by emotions vs monetary value.🙂 I have a question… A year ago you spoke of your Excalibur bar and how you thought that that level of excellence would probably never be achieved. You then reviewed the Holt Specter and actually deemed that as Excalibur. Since then, I haven’t seen the Specter in your playlists, like this one. I’m just curious if you still feel the same way about the Holt Specter? Thanks for the great entertainment and content. Keep up the good work, brother! 🍻
What kind of camera do you use? Your focus is super fast to change, very impressive. I'm into photography also. I was thinking of doing an unboxing using my Sony mirrorless NEX 5N just for fun, my wife will probably come in the garage and giggle/laugh and I hope I get that part in the video!! 🤣🤣🤘🏼🤘🏼
Remember, there are two omega springs in each Axis lock. I don't think a single broken one will completely disable the knife. Then it is easy to replace the broken one.
benchmade wont send you omega springs anymore, you have to send it in for warranty. my omega springs broke over a year ago and i still havent gotten it fixed
Great break down of a lit of locks, I am still pretty new but my take away is, no locking system on a folding knife is perfect. But most are great as long as you aren't Heman trying to fight of Skeletor off. Can't wait to get my hands on a shark lock one day haha. Great video man
Triad Lock, A for Options and Availability? uhh, no. I would give it a C. It's basically proprietary, as you said, Cold Steel and Demko are the only one's who use it. Same thing with the Compression Lock, only used by Spyderco. That earns it a C.
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The total amount of blade tang the lock bar is engaging 👍
Forgot the GREATEST lock of all time... The Ring Lock popularized by Opinel. Solid "Rank A"!
And we know you own one 😉
I was gonna say, I couldn't help but notice that greatest knife of all time was missing🤣
Opinel is just genious in its simplicity. The blade snaps before the ring calls home to mother to say bye-bye :)
As someone who edc's a Cold Steel Recon 1,your rankings for the Triad lock are spot on imo
Except some are as easy to deliberately unlock as a simple lock back, and some models are beasts to unlock.
Love the compression lock really wish other companies would pick it up the patent ended in February
How does that apply to the button like version of it like on the Smock knives?
@@IlliniDog01 button is WAY better imo.
100% dead on, can't disagree...I was surprised about the button lock
I love this channel
I'd add some extra categories: 1)How does the deployment mechanism affects the ergonomics, 2) reliability in adverse conditions and 3) ease to maintain in working order. This is less important for urban areas, but during a long hike or if you work in remote location and your selection of tools is limited it may affect your choice.
1) So, liner-lock doesn't affect ergonomics, but frame lock does. Compression-lock makes majority of handles not so comfortable for cutting through tough stuff (Shaman is probably is the only exception). Majority of back locks are ok, but not all of them. Cross-bars and buttons are usually fine.
2) In muddy and sandy conditions back-lock variants (including triad-lock) and some ATFs can stop working. Liner and especially frame-lock knives are less prone to that. Axis-lock subtypes are ok too.
3) Knifes with liner-lock/frame lock are usually very easy to disassembly and clean (often you don't need disassemble a knife to fix stuff). Back-lock types require a (tiny) bit of more of attention. Some Axis locks are pretty hard to maintain (it's not like you need to do it often if at all).
This would not make much difference in overall rating. Popular locks are popular for a reason, so they will most likely keep their rank, with liner-lock going up one step, maybe.
I would have just said "B" or "C" for ease of manipulation on the triad lock, but he really hit it with the "D".
He just loves to mess with Cold Steel stans
@@lordquenntillieusiii9250 Who doesn't? Am I right?
Phrasing?
I have an entire collection of unique opening and locking mechanisms of folding knives.
I should make my own version of this.
I love the ball lock on the manix 2
Same. Flips so nice
So glad you did this video.
I've always been on the fence about axis locks
Which has hindered me on wanting to buy one. I've been getting tired of liner locks and never wanted frame locks as I just see them the same as a liner lock in my OWN OPINION. But I am a complacent person with everything and just stick to what I am familiar with for probably too damn long. I stopped using back locks because my hands are big and bulbous and I death grip the fuck outta everything. I hulk strong grip even my pens and pencils (hello hand cramps).... Because of my grip, I always tend engage back locks. Even some liner locks if my grip shifts when using.
This has opened my eyes alot now and now I wanna pull the trigger on buying my first axis lock knife
Thanks so much for doing this man
Have you tried the Scorpion Lock on the AD15? Your gorilla grip will just make the lock more secure
One thing about the Benchmade omega springs is that I never saw this flurry of complaints about broken springs until the Bugout came out. It almost always seems to be the Bugout that people are complaining about online. I wonder if they went with a thinner one to help shave more weight off this ultralight knife. Doesn't seem like they would have been able to salvage much but something seems different.
It's just the attitude of people towards some things and usage statistics. Knives (esp. folders) as a hobby are more popular now and more different people use EDC-type ones. Old-timers of knife community were more nerdy, so repairs and parts' change as they break weren't considered an issue. Aside from that, fidgety stuff is a relatively new thing. People used to operated the lock when they had to deploy the blade and use it. And that's not needed like 200 times a day.
Recent flurry of complaints is also due to pandemic. It's harder and takes longer to get spare parts, especially overseas.
I think it mainly comes down to the popularity of the lock as a fidget device. People love to fidget with their knives, me included (I open and close my Adamas a lot). The springs most likely break when someone is rapidly swinging their blade open and closed, that paired with such small springs that quality control can be iffy will result in some people breaking their springs and then crying on forums about it. I don't abuse my Adamas and the lock as been 100% reliable and have yet to break a spring.
@@CertifiedSunset Yeah I've had Benchmades for years and never broke a spring, but I also don't fidget. Maybe doing it rapidly is like when you bend something back and forth quickly which heats up the crease until it weakens and you can break it.
@@JustKnifeThings Think of it more like a paper clip, you can bend it quite a bit, but if you repeatedly bend it at the same spot then it's strength will degrade until it breaks.
15:41 is hands down your funniest impression EVER . OMG! LOL
Could not agree more. I’d vote to have him do his next vid entirely in that voice.
Absolutely hilarious.
I have one test for knifes lock strength: Can you stab it in the wooden table and not be afraid that it will bend/break and cut your fingers. If you afraid of that, or have that small weird feeling behind your head "what if..." dont use it, go find other knife.
Also small note: Most of axis locks have two omega springs. chance that two of them fail at the same time are... small, very very small. I used one with one spring for two weeks as I wait for new one and it lock perfectly.
Compression locks and button locks are my favorite.
I love the ball bearing lock from spyderco the best. I love my manix!!!
Compression lock is currently my favorite
I bought several nice knives starting with Kershaw and then going to Benchmade. Because of my lack of experience to start with I stumbled into and bought several liner lock knives and would sell them in a heartbeat! The reason is I am left handed and have to switch hands to close the knife blade. Not a huge deal but over time it's a hassle. It's like having a striker fired pistol and having to switch hands to simply lock the slide. Last non-ambedextrious pistol I'll buy as well! BTW, I have a couple of liner or compression lock knives for sale if you want them...
Probably the BEST knife lock by description video, that I've ever seen!!!
I think compression lock with a CME or a button lock are the best for me.
I think that the back lock presents the same difficulties as the frame lock and the liner lock. It is only because of the abundance of the last two and because of muscles memory that we find them easier to manipulate. In fact, I will say that with a good positioning of the back lock, a user (not a fidgeter) will have to adjust his hand position less than with the other two. When it’s at the back of the knife, then, it’s almost strictly a two hand lock.
Back Lock FTW every time. Nothing in the way, super simple, adjustable, super strong. I always use two hands regardless of the lock type. I like my fingers too much to flip some razor sharp blade near my fingertips.
My favorite lock would have to be the axis lock because of the strength and fidget factor
If the springs were better I’d like it more. I’ve broken several omega springs fidgeting.
@@scottburns5242 I call bullshit !! I've NEVER had an omega spring break on me in the 20 plus yrs I've been carrying an EDC knife. You say that you've broke several? I'll need a better explanation than "I do a lot of fidgeting" to believe your story. What knife was it? How often or how many time's a day do you open & close your knife? You'd have to show me the broken springs for me to believe your claim.
Why would someone lie about that. I've also broken multiple springs. Bugout, grip. Bought the cheapest ganzo just to steal the omega springs.
@@pauldayton5285 fidgeting with a mini onslaught I’ve broken 2 omega springs. I haven’t broken any in nearly 10 years either, because I stopped buying knives with that shit lock.
@@mr.crumbles2557 why? Just to be a hater & repeat something that they've heard from somewhere else. Why are you spending more money buying gas station gonzo knives for part's to fix your Benchmade instead of getting new springs from Benchmade directly for free? Your story sounds super suspect too !! Why would someone lie...🤣
Are you kidding me? 🤣
For me, a liner lock is easier to manipulate than a frame lock. No chance of putting to much pressure on the detent.
Love the shark lock on my Demko, but for me the Benchmade axis lock is the coolest, most fun
I appreciate the video. I've had several liner and frame lock knives and I've never 100% liked them. I just don't like the disengagement and how you need to apply some force for a full lockup.
I was just given a Benchmade knife that was left at the gun range I'm a member of that nobody claimed for a few weeks. First knife I've handled that locks like it. Didn't like it at first but after playing around with it for a few hours it's grown on me.
Only thing I don't like about it is I've broken a spring similar to this one (not spring assisted but the one I broke was assisted) and it was a liner lock knife. I took it apart, tossed the spring, and used it for a little while without the assist since the lockup worked fine, but again you need to apply some force for a complete lockup. I ended up putting it back in the box and haven't used it since (Had that knife on me for maybe 8 years).
I'll have to keep an eye out for a tri ad or shark/scorpion. I'll also keep an eye out for a OTF automatic or gravity knife. Reason for those two is, PA's Governor Wolf just made fully automatic knifes legal :) Will be on the books in a few days from now.
The AD20.5 is such an amazing knife. I have the model with 3V blade steel and was lucky enough to even get it on sale.
The shark clock is by far my favorite locking system, and when given your overall quality of the build, as well as the ergonomics on top of everything else… I have a hard time finding another knife as good at that price point. It also fits really nicely in the pocket because it’s pretty slim.
A+ all around for the Demko AD20.5.
I've carried the same Griptillian for over a decade, working construction the whole time, and never had an omega spring fail
Between Linear Lock and Ball bearings knife, which one do I get? They are the same knife but both use a different system
Well done video sir. Well thought out and executed.
From 🇨🇦...stay safe and sharp
They just released a new AD20 variant, the AD20s. It’s grivory for $275, g10 for $350, the blade stock is thinner and the blade steel is only D2 at the moment. Oh and the actual lock mechanisms are made in the same factories as the AD20.5s. The blades, hardware, and scales are still USA made.
axis lock is definitely my favorite
Best locks for a lefty: A) Back Lock B) Axis (Benchmade) lock C) Button lock D) Liner Lock F) Frame lock
Forgot about the Safety factor..
Thank you for covering this topic, I've been on this kick for a while.
People lose their shit when I share my opinion on frame/liner locks.
Safety should probably have been it's own category, your right. I kind of lumped it in with "ease of manipulation".
@@metal_complex thanks for the video
Wished balisongs/butterfly knives were also included. For good well made balisongs, I would rate it as :
Strength: A+. No way it will fail by normal human means if both handles are held.
Ease: D to A. Highly depends on practice.
Dependability over time: A-. Might have some tap or play over some time, but does not affect strength significantly. Maintenance is quite easy.
Options/Availability: C. Most are either very good, high end expensive balis or cheap horrible gas station ones. There is not much middle ground.
I love this content!😂 so glad I found this channel.
Please do another one of these and feature Button locks and the Deadbolt locks from CRKT. Thanks
A=4, B=3, C=2, D=1, F=0
Compression lock & axis lock = 3.5
Frame lock, TriAd lock, & back lock = 3.25
Otf pin lock & shark lock = 3
Liner lock, plunge lock, & bolster lock = 2.75
If you remove the availability score, you'd get a different picture as far as performance goes, however I realize that availability is an important aspect. What good is the best lock in the world (which would be the Shark lock in this case) if you can't get your hands on it? I think the otf pin lock should have scored lower on availability since they are illegal in many places but I'm nitpicking. Interesting video as always.
Removing the availability score:
Shark lock = 4
Compression lock = 3.7
Axis lock = 3.3
Frame lock, TriAd lock, back lock & bolster lock = 3
Otf pin lock & plunge lock = 2.7
Liner lock = 2.3
I think I need to find something to do.
You're supposed to score based on the functionality of the knife, not the legality. Irrelevant.
@@KaPPy83 Availability in general doesn't have anything to do with the functionality of the lock. My point about OTFs being illegal in many places was simply that they aren't as widely available as other types of knives. Most dealers won't ship them to states where they aren't legal. That was all I meant.
@@KaPPy83 lmao if you can’t get the knife then it’s completely worthless.
@@dominicblade6514 can't knock the knife if you can't have it 🙄
Ease of manipulation between frame lock and liner lock not the same. Pressure on frame lock would *affect* ease. Great vid 👍
Right, but we all know now that in order to properly use a framelock, you have to keep your fingers off the lock bar, which makes them function almost exactly the same.
I’ll tell ya one thing I found about the compression lock that makes it the worst lock…at least for the type of work I do. Dirt and grinding dust gets in behind the lock and makes it impossible to lock.
Very nice! Ant lock? I have found that if I take the triad lock apart and gently file it with a diamond file and add some grease it works wonderfully well. With practice to scorpion lock has become very easy to use, both opening and closing. My two favorite locks are the compression lock in the liner lock.
Living in the desert, we have “Blow Sand”, and it’s bad for all folders. The worst is the axis lock. Dropping it means a disassembly before next use, Even in windy conditions, I’ll find the lock bar gritty.
What’s your go-to lock with winds like that?
I wonder how the new WE Vision R would be for desert "blow sand". The knife is apparently designed to be easy to clean. Just use a dry lubricant like Tuff Glide so it can't gum up and maybe keep some canned compressed air to blow it out?
@@masemasemasie fixed blade and a leather sheath
@@Jakoshdw while that may help, it’s more of an issue with the pivot area. Even bronze washers get gritty
@@silverslvr5185 -
Guess you'd need water then. From what I've seen said you can apparently rinse the Vision out directly to clean out fruit juice I don't doubt it would flush out fine dust just as well. That's just an assumption though as I haven't been able to handle the knife directly. Kinda want a WE Vision 'cause I really enjoy my Demko Shark lock... while different mechanically... the user interface shares similarities... and a easy rinse fidget knife appeals to me.
As far as easy to clean knives folding knives go... have you ever had your hands on a CRKT Homefront? That all said I can easily see why you'd adopt the K.I.S.S. approach and just use fixed blades. But... this is still a fun thought experiment. Until someone designs a completely self contained sealed knife pivot that is...lol.
Great video and brief on locks. Yours remains my favorite channel to just drive and listen 🎧 🤌😝
If you could only have just one do it all EDC out of all the options under $150 what would you pick all things considered?
Fixed blade is the best lock! Fast, strong, and no compulsive fidget disorders!
You still had to say it huh? Just had to force it in there 🤣🤣
@@metal_complex i tried not to say it, but I couldn’t resist! Just busting your balls! Love your objective commentary.
There are a few more locks that have emerged since you did this video. One is the Deadbolt Lock on CRKT knives. You should do this video again. Love your channel. Thanks
This is seriously the best knife channel on RUclips. So far the axis lock has been a complete winner for me, I have had a Benchmade Adamas for around 8 years and it has seen some hard use, still just as solid as the day I brought it home
I feel like It may have been better to compare knives of more similar price points if possible. If you take a more poorly designed mechanism and throw enough money at it in terms of materials and crafting details it will make for a better experience. I feel like if you took steel frame lock that was the same price as the Rat1 the answer would be different and thats why I would involve a value category. This category would acknowledge an overall user experience at various price points (mainly cheaper price points). Are you getting a quality lock at a good deal or are you needing to spent lots of money before the lock becomes good quality. I feel like the frame lock is a perfect example as quality of life improvements need to be added to improve the mechanism. People want overtravel protection, a steel insert, maybe a finger rest or guard so you cant apply pressure to the mechanism. At that point a bunch of money has been put into it to basically turn it back into a thick liner lock.
Also deployment should be a separate category as you didnt even touch on one of the main complaints of the frame lock about the awkwardness of your finger placement. As a whole liner locks tend to be easier to deploy than frame locks since you dont have to worry about putting unwanted pressure on the detent. But the shark lock or axis lock for example are even easier to deploy since you can entirely disengage the lock mechanism and the blade can be free floating during deployment.
Then I would make unlocking and folding separate since in the case of the frame lock I would say its just as easy to disengage the lock as a liner lock maybe barring the note about overtravel.
I would take a liner lock over a frame lock any day just because I feel at knives in my price range the liner lock would rank higher in durability, ease of use, and even dependability. Someone over traveled one of my frame locks and I cant get it back to just quite how it was and a liner lock is more dummy proof. I feel like the liner lock on a we knives banter would give a hinderer frame lock a run for its money at a third the hinderer price tag. Maybe a better comparison than the rat gonna be honest.
Compared to the triad lock it makes sense why the liner lock would be ranked C. Most other locks from what I have seen fail at pretty much the same weight on the spine from testing videos so besides the locks designed for torture the rest of the mechanisms generally would rank the same.
Thanks for the video it was fun to think about a lock mechanism tier list.
I just enabled notification, sorry I was late. THIS is a subject close to my -heart- scars on my hand. Locks MATTER. I had a frame lock and a liner lock collapse on me when I was using them improperly. Yes, I admit I’m an idiot, I was trying to do something stupid, like enlarge a bolt hole in a fence post to save myself walking back and getting a drill. Note if anyone else is as dumb as me, liner locks and frame locks can be released accidentally if gripping the knife hard with your hand and working it in a manner it was not intended. 😎👍🏼🤣😱
Personally I don’t think the “D” was too harsh on the Axis lock at all, if even one of the two springs break then your “A” for strength becomes a low C or even a D. I also own multiple of them, broken both springs in the BladeHQ 20CV Bugout I have in less then 9 months being one of my least carried knives. Just my opinion, too many other truly great knives for me to ever waste money on one of them again.
You forgot your favourite: theVirobloc Safety ring! 😉
The shark lock is fun, but it hasn't replaced my Benchmade Anthem. And I think the compression spring in the Anthem brinks the score up to an A.
15:42-15:52 was the best Metal Complex moment in the world🤣🤣🤣
Had an Omega spring break on a Benchmade 710 Axis Lock, simply bought some spring wire of same thickness at craft store, shaped new Omega spring by using the other unbroken spring as template to follow bends and installed. Worked 100% with equal tension on either side of lock.
How did it break? Was idiot flicking it back and forth in rapid open/close position - basically heated the wire up like working a steel cloths-hanger until it broke. Lesson learned, have not done that since, those same knife springs are still 100% over 10 years now.
@@thaknobodi Thanks for the reply, I am familiar with many semi auto firearms and most of those use a coil spring or two of some form. Please enlighten me as to which styles of firearms use an Omega style spring for rapid use bolt cycling etcetera, (not magazine releases or safety catches) thanks again in advance.
This is how to make a knife channel!
Really cool vidéo my favorite lock is compression ✌️
Please is there a way to do an actual test of like silicone hand holding the knife and applying pressure ever so slightly to the lock mechanism with the grip and to see if it would close in the hand and how much damage it would do to the hand
i know this is an old video but i was just wondering your opinion on current button locks. my cjrb frack seems rock solid
Are there other companies that utilize the compression lock besides Spyderco?
I was just about to go outside & then I saw this ! Now I'll be inside 48 min longer than I thought 🤣👍
Thanks for the great content MC💯❤🔪‼️
Metal Complex, I agree with you that the Gerber Sumo is the greatest knife of all time and that 7Cr17 MoV is the greatest steel of all time. Thanks. Kref
Yes
Button/compression lock is god tier. Give us more Spyerdco!
You make a good point about omega springs
Would you consider button lock safe for self defense?
Heck no, that's just waiting to fail. Get yourself a well made frame lock, axis lock, or compression/backlock. Framelock still holds its strength even if its messed up because of your hand. Triad lock, made by cold steel is unbeatable.
really loving the tier lists mc.
Thank you for posting this
What's the difference between back lock and triad lock?
Axis locks really all have to do mostly with the omega springs how strong those are and how long the knives tang is and how far in the axis lock goes into the tang the bugout is a stronger axis lock than the hogue deka.
You didn't include one of the most important topics: "Dependability in dirty situations". Will the lock jam up if dirt is introduced, and if if does jam up, how easy is it to un-jam it?
That's a 45 minute video by itself. It's also been thoroughly... And I mean THOROUGHLY discussed here on RUclips over the last decade. Cedric and Ada, DBK, Gideons Tactical and many, many others have done in depth videos on all of it.
I've never had a Omega spring break
Also, Plunge/button locks, Gerber 06 auto or BM AFO? I've had the button that contacts the blade dent before.
nice video think I need a compression lock already got a couple cheap Axis locks off of Amazon
My rating of locks:
1) Flipjoint
2) Slipjoint
3) Fixed blade
However, you have to think a little bit more when you're using flipjoint or slipjoint knives.
None of those have locking mechanisms
@@metal_complex that is correct
I don't know how you can rate the crossbar (axis) lock above the compression lock in terms of strength. I love both, and would say they are equal. Both of the Demko locks are stronger than the axis, so the axis lock really should be a B, along with the compression lock.
The best lock system is Tri-ad lock by far. Period💪
Agreed. But I when I think of people being hard on their knives Cold Steel sticking with AUS-8 would have made more sense.
I have had already an Gerber EAB liner lock not fail but yes fail since the blade got all wobbly up and down. That was after 2 or 3 years of use. The surfaces where definately not hardened.
Then I have in use an Coast DX126 now for several years which has an liner lock as well but is working flawless with about 1/4 of chew through. I talked with Coast and they say their surfaces on the liner is hardened. So that makes the difference.
My Karambit has an frame lock.
The secret for liner lock and frame lock is that you DO NOT flick it open. You open it both handed half 3/4 ways without the detend falling off the blades back end where it locks. Then you hold the liner open on pressure while you fully open the blade. That way nothing jams into then locking surfaces and you guide the liner lock slowly towards the blades locking edge.
That reduces a big time the wear on the surfaces.
Which eats into the locking surfaces is flicking the knife open since the liner jams into the blades locking surface each time with velocity.
Buttom locks I do not like since I have a el cheapo multi tool knife set with an button lock which wobbles like crazy.
Best anti wear would be an liner lock or frame lock with inserts on both ends which can be exchanged or this autoadjusting Tri-Ad lock which is an back lock. That is for longevity.
I've got a big collection.! 30 are axis benchmade, X. R. And Able . Never had a
Omega spring. Break. Compression lock
Is on Top !! 👍
My favorite is the scorpion lock on the Cold Steel AD15
Great overall rankings and rationales behind said rankings. My only real difference with your take is... I’m more forgiving and would give the Triad and Back Locks a C for Ease of Manipulation. ;) IME, “repositioning” of the hand for a Triad/Back Lock is only marginally more involved than with say, a Compression Lock... it’s just that the fidget-factor with a Compression Lock is soooo much higher that it begs one to play with it much more and thus it becomes second nature and one develops excellent muscle memory just gets very highly skilled with it. Triad/Back Locks are just boring to use so they don’t naturally encourage endless fidgeting and thus most folks just don’t gain that muscle memory that more fidgety locks tend to produce. Plus, using the tip of the thumb to close a Triad/Back Lock isn’t ideal (and will definitely make closing it clunkier). Using the inside/side of the thumb is the hot ticket and increases Ease of Manipulation for sure, IME. Great vid as usual.
There’s a store I live near in Columbus that always has them and I got my ad20.5 and it’s good steel plus the shop offers lifetime pro sharpening for free when you buy any knife from them
Excellent video, my friend! Your ranking system makes perfect sense to me… I also become attached to my knives by emotions vs monetary value.🙂 I have a question… A year ago you spoke of your Excalibur bar and how you thought that that level of excellence would probably never be achieved. You then reviewed the Holt Specter and actually deemed that as Excalibur. Since then, I haven’t seen the Specter in your playlists, like this one. I’m just curious if you still feel the same way about the Holt Specter? Thanks for the great entertainment and content. Keep up the good work, brother! 🍻
What kind of camera do you use? Your focus is super fast to change, very impressive. I'm into photography also. I was thinking of doing an unboxing using my Sony mirrorless NEX 5N just for fun, my wife will probably come in the garage and giggle/laugh and I hope I get that part in the video!! 🤣🤣🤘🏼🤘🏼
Adaption? Love it.
I'm glad I watch today I learned that an otf's lock is a pin lock I did not know that, that's Awesome thanks MC :))
No CRKT deadbolt?
You freakin crack me up dude!! Jackie Gleason lock!!!
Remember, there are two omega springs in each Axis lock. I don't think a single broken one will completely disable the knife. Then it is easy to replace the broken one.
what about scale release???
benchmade wont send you omega springs anymore, you have to send it in for warranty. my omega springs broke over a year ago and i still havent gotten it fixed
You should send it in.
@@metal_complex procrastination is one hell of a problem lol
C is definitely the right grade for dependability over time.
Great break down of a lit of locks, I am still pretty new but my take away is, no locking system on a folding knife is perfect.
But most are great as long as you aren't Heman trying to fight of Skeletor off.
Can't wait to get my hands on a shark lock one day haha.
Great video man
Thanks for the video, nice content. It's hilarious when you impersonate voices.
Most of my favorite folding knives are liner locks. I am not sure why. That is without any "scientific" selection process, just what I have purchased.
My favorite lock is probably the shark lock. It's super easier to use and very steong and fidgety.
You could rank them inside categories, like who's at the top And bottom of A
I like you thinking. What's your thoughts about a butterfly knife?
I'd love to get my hands on a Mongrel. I loved it even before I knew Medford had a hand in it.
I prefer Crossbar locks and button locks. One for strength the other for fun.
In all honesty for hard use folders are out of the race.
Sub Frame lock all the way!!!
Triad Lock, A for Options and Availability? uhh, no. I would give it a C. It's basically proprietary, as you said, Cold Steel and Demko are the only one's who use it. Same thing with the Compression Lock, only used by Spyderco. That earns it a C.
Gimme that scarab!