@Backyard Samurai I've never had a bad QC knife from cold steel. On the other hand I've had some atrocious shit from benchmade an besides from being over priced they seem to be under heat treated in cut tests. The only problem with CS is lack of higher end options. Cold steel + gold class options = perfect imo
All I wanted was to learn enough to buy a good budget knife for work but here I am... Watching Nick Shabazz and Metal Complex almost every day; enjoying the thrill of hunt for many many knives I’ll never own lol
@@NickShabazz Started collecting a while back, you're not kidding about the rabbit hole. There are so many cool styles and designs, could have used your knowledge and wisdom years ago.
If you really want to know....Blade HQ several years ago did a very extensive test of all lock types, where they put stress on them to the point of failure. If I remember correctly, the lock back came out on top.
I think they did it on some Spydercos, and ball bearing lock locked very well. I think the blade broke even before the lock failed. Not sure though, It's been years since I've seen that video.
I was Attempting to be brief in my first post. LOL! When they did the first test, it was a bunch of different locking mechanisms by several different manufacturers. Then they thought it would be more accurate with less variables in manufacturing and quality if they just did one brand with consistent manufacturing. So they chose Spyderco and did all the different locking mechanisms with Spyderco on the second trial.
If you love knives, this video is the best way to spend your 30 minutes. I got a lot of good good points. Also simple and easy to understand. Thank you, Sir!
lionsteel daghetta... could be a valid contender for the title, a "sliding-bar-back-lock". That said, the only time a knife failed on me, it was the frame not the lock :D
This is a very helpful video for newcomers to the community. It can be hard to get to know all these things and the knife nerds usually forget how it was when they were new to the hobby. Anyway, I think that you had a great point, that every modern lock is theoretically strong enough for every day use, but all of them can fail if not designed/made properly. We should seek real quality over theoretical strength of a lock when looking for a knife.
well if our using your knife in the way it should be used a lock means nothing. the blade will be pressed up into the opened position against a blade stop made of steel. so it wont close on you anyway. its when you get to trying to use it in a none designed way that locks get stressed and become important for the user so you dont lose a finger. but thats just my opinion
Since guns or fixed blades are not legal or practical to carry, locks for folders matter. Anyone can have a self defense encounter where a EDC knife is used for self defense, and a lock failing can be disastrous. It happened to me. Thanks for this video. A knife is the right tool for self defense, but it must have the right lock.
SpyderCo's compression lock is my favorite locking mechanism. It may not be the best to other knife enthusiast, but I love how easy it is to work and how strong it is for my use
I had a liner lock fail and get stitches. Also had an Axis lock fail on me. Ever since then, it's been ONLY Cold Steel Tri-Ad locks for me. I'm still doing some research on if there's a frame lock I would trust.
have a "fleamarket copy" of the Spyderco Polywog with a modified Axis lock and i have used and abused this little fkr to hell and back and not once has this thing even shown a sign of failure of any kind. i dare say this copy is as strong or indeed STRONGER than the original damn thing in that the entire thing is ALL stainless construction. im not easily impressed by a knife but this one really surprised me. i also own a number of other brands from CS, Benchmade, Spyderco. i like them all and each although having their limitations in some regard or another, all perform as expected.
I have had a few Kershaw linerlocks, I never could trust them. I bought a Clip point Cold Steel Recon-1. No more linerlocks or frame locks. I do have a Steel Will Apostate with the frame lock, I only carry that when "out on the town" but the Triad lock is what I trust 100 percent..
New to knives here. But I've been watching your videos, Blade HQ, and Metal Complex videos for days now! I'm hooked haha I just ordered my first knives today. Got the Ontario Rat II in D2 (sadly with the cheesy looking carbon fiber, I wish I had watched your review before ordering lol), and the Civivi Elementum in black G-10 and D2. Just wanted to say I appreciate your content greatly! You're one of the more critical people and it's really helpful. I mean you don't like crap on stuff but you seem to have no reserve pointing out flaws or things you don't like, more so than others.
In my opinion, I find large Folders hard to clean after gutting game, so Fixed are the way to go for hard hunting use. Folding pockets knives are small and used for small nonabusive jobs. Right tool for right job. Love em all, I just don't use large Folders except for looking at, trading, customizing, fun to work with. To each his own!!!
I live in the UK where locking knives are legally problematic, so I only have a few. Particularly interesting therefore to see your illustration of actions and mechanisms I will seldom encounter. Really interesting and educational thank you.
Great video! Fantastic collection! (I'm Jealous) but I see one glaring omission here. A simple tried and true folding knife design that's been around for thousands of years... The Balisong. (Butterfly knife) Possibly the strongest lock design of any folding knife. Even if you suck at fancy flipping, you still need a good bali in this amazing collection!
Solid coverage of the State of usual locks today. Got my EWC a few days ago and love the action both opening and closing. A very unique design that is a 10 on the cool scale. Thanks Ray!
I'm sorry if my English is not absolutely correct. Greetings from 🇩🇪. Locking blades are a thing I'm struggling with, since i cut myself with a buck 110. I abused it too much. Clearly my fault, but at this point i started thinking about locks in general. You have slipjoints, locking blades and fixed blades. In my opinion it's a bit like climbing with a robust rope, without a rope and with a rope that holds a little bit. If you're climbing with robust rope (fixed) you know that nothing can happen. You don't have to be careful. If you're climbing without a rope (slipjoint) you are much more careful because you don't want to hurt yourself or die. But if you are climbing with a rope that holds some weight but not that much, you never know what happens if you make a mistake and in the end you are as careful as if there is no rope at all. So, what's the point of locks? I hope you understand what I'm talking about.
I think one thing you should mention is lots of locks will work better or worse depending on how much hand dexterity you have, like the deadbolt may be easier than a liner lock if you have gloves, or the axis may be easier than the triad lock if you have weak hand muscles
@Backyard Samurai first of all it was a joke referencing a meme and secondly just because I've shown budget blades in videos doesn't mean I haven't owned other knives....I've had cold steels and even Chris Reeves, Medfords and customs just didn't do videos on them.......
I have had knives for years and used them for all kinds of purposes. IMO back locks are the strongest locks on folders out there period. Of course if you truly want the most durable knife for any use I would recomend a fixed blade.
Your opinion period. Even though my daily carry ATM is a benchmade super freek, ill never (probably) buy another axis lock knife. I just dont like it. Much prefer a frame or liner lock. So many knives for so many preferences.
4 4c 75 74 68 65 72 61 6 it is an opinion for sure and I’m sure the comments for this video will be varied and very opinionated. So with that I’ll say to each there own but for me the Axis lock gets three things right. 1. Accidental folding or failure of the mechanism is extremely low 2. Fingers never need to be in the path of the blade while closing 3. Super fast one handed deployment and stow of the blade
😂🤣😂 what a great vid. You come in thinking, “I’m finally going to find out”, and you leave realizing the revelation that, “WOW! He’s totally right. Any locking mechanism will do the job so what does it matter.” Buy a damn fixed blade if you need the strongest lock! Great vid! 👍🏻
Excellent review, thanks. I've heard some people worry about an automatic or assist opening in their pocket. I don't think that happens very often and I don't worry about it, although it has happened with my Boker pin lock -- I don't pocket carry that any more. A secondary lock which both locks the blade open and closed would satisfy the worriers. Benchmade assists have that secondary lock, it locks the slide lock in place, either open or closed. At least it does on my Barrage. The Opinel can get a little sticky to open, being wood. The way to open it is to unlock it and lightly tap the extended knob at the end of the handle on a hard surface.
Just to clarify, the bolsters are the parts around the pivot or the overlay over the pivot area. What covers the lock bar or the rest of the handle would I guess just be the scales or overlays. I would suggest adding a Superlock when CKF comes out with their SnecX collab!
BUCK gets credited for "inventing" the lockback design but the fact is that design had been around for many decades before BUCK started producing the 110. They just popularized the lockback design (and possibly improved upon it) not invented it.
Same here. Wanted a real pocket knife and mistakenly bought a SOG. The thing broke apart after about a month. After that I got a Delica 4...that started the addiction.
@@thefinder8087 I had a SOG trident that failed on me and cut me right to the bone. Initially I wanted a lock that would never fail and I saw a blade hq video of them cutting a tree down with the PM2. Thousands and thousands of dollars later here I'm 😂
I believe BLADE HQ did a big test of various types of locks. Cold Steel also has a vid up. I believe the old back lock was about the strongest in testing static load.
Blade hq has made that video, and I believe youre right, but almost all the locks took so much force to break that the knife part of the knife became pretty much irrelevent
Great video...muchos infos. I'm glad to learn that I'm not the only knife knut that forgets the name (model) of a knife in my collection. I was worried about dementia, but not so much anymore...thanks.
Nice watch. Thanks for the tour, Nick. Im new to knives and was looking for something as a last ditch approach to self defense. ( Recent shoulder injury has mostly knocked out my right arm's formerly good strength, until and unless therepy and time can restore it) The diversity of folding knives was at first overwhelming but Im learning. The fear I have about some of these lock methods is in a struggle its possible it could become unlocked. The lock the Cold Steel company has seems the best to me so far, like on the SR1. The unlock is physically covered by my hand. Still learning.... thanks again.
When I was a kid a friend of mine had the brilliant idea to stab a basketball with a traditional backlock knife some 40 years ago. He used an overhand grip. I just knew even at 10 years old this wasn't going to go well. He squeezed the knife hard and inadvertently depressed the backlock with his grip and while stabbing the inflated basketball the knife closed on his fingers. It is the reason today that I still cringe when I see backlock knives. I can still see the horror and is the only flaw I can find in that lock. Not a good choice knife if you intend it as a stabbing tool. Food for thought.
@@valkyriesurvives5109 - i hope u r right because The Potos comment has me very FRUSTRATED that after literally hundreds of hours of knife research i thought i finally found the right knife to invest in until i read his story.
Yes because all back locks are the same and so you should just straight up dismiss any back locks without any research. Liner/frame locks have taken more fingers than other locks. 😂
I'm going to have to disagree and say that for most utility based applications, the back lock is the way to go. As much as I like my other knives, my back lock knives are the ones I carry most due to the strength in the design, lack of free swinging action, and lack of accidental openings. Their ease of use and recognizability also makes them inherently less frightening to non-knife people. Yeah, a fixed blade is best for hard use, but if that isn't an option for legal or other reasons, a back lock is likely the way to go. In my experience, the more simple, traditional, and boring a knife is, the more acceptable it is to have.
I did a bunch of research and came to the conclusion that the triad lock is the only lock that is substantially stronger than other locks almost every other lock the only thing that matters is ease of deployment and closing and a reliability of deployment, lockbacks will close and open reliably, but i could open and close 9 out of 10 knives more quickly and easily than a lockback, honestly the marginal difference in strength isnt worth it on a back lock. I would also put axis lock up there with triad lock because it is less likely to fail from impact and is better for battoning even if its not recommended its a genuinely more beneficial strength than everything but triad lock.
Carry a RECON-1 with the Tri-ad lock. I never have to worry about lock failure. Not the prettiest knife, but if the world was to take a shit I am glad it's in my pocket everyday.
Scott eDog yeah then I saw the full review, and it’s only vg10, and in the Japan factory. If they’re going to do a knife with an interesting lock do it in Taiwan with a good steel.
Thanks Nick, detailed descriptions with examples helped to flesh out the understanding I had from looking at diagrams. I liked your insight into pros & cons of each; but I gather there isn't all that much to say about locking mechanisms. Would love to have a video from you on deployment mechanisms (flipper/thumb stud/front flip/etc). More insights to be gleaned on that front I imagine.
Thanks Nick, you're entertaining to listen to. To a southern boy, you sound like a "wise guy", (pun intended). But really, you are a smart man, that was very informative, I've been collecting knives for a few years and had never seen a few of those locks. I'm looking forward to your disassembly video. I like any lock that keeps me from cutting my fingers with an unintentional closing of the blade. Slip joints are probably the only dangerous knives around. Unless you use the knife for something that it was not intended for (like using it as a punch and hitting it on the end like a chisel) you probably shouldn't have a problem and the strength of the lock won't be an issue. The only time I've had a knife (slip joint) close up on my was when I was trying to use it as a hole punch or reamer. I do like my Firebird (Ganzo) knives with the Axis (sliding bar) lock, like you said you can pull the lock pin back against the spring and the blade is free swinging so with a little bit of practice you can flip it open or closed. They also have very free swinging liner locks because all their knives use bearing pivots and blade flippers.
Good video. I think the safest slip joints are the ones with finger choils that make the blade impossible to close when your finger is on them, like on the Spyderco Squeak.
Everybody seems to forget about balisongs when discussing lock strength. Lol Balisongs have been around forever, and still a stronger locking mechanism than any of these other pocket knives.
With the external stop pin (e.g. Sage 5) it certainly is Tri-Ad among liner locks. With a default setup like Para 2 and Junior it's more like a Lock Back among liner locks-that cut out for the stop pin through the liner does weaken the liner itself at some degree.
I am surprised that you did not mention the ball lock which is in my view fairly common among knife makers. I have a few knives with those in my collection. The nature of the lock will allow for easy deployment or a more difficult one. The back lock for exampe is harder to deploy because of the tension of the spring, and you will not find a flipper with such a lock mecanism. Overall a good slip joint will be much more secure to use (because of the consistency and resistance) than a cheap locking knife that can fail at any time.
@@rlanger3108 The Ball Bearing lock is better than the AXIS lock in more ways than just spring's. The design of the Ball Bearing lock is COMPLETELY different than the bar lock / "AXIS" lock making it stronger & more reliable. There's only one spring on the Ball Bearing lock that has a vertical metal rod going through the middle of it. That rod & spring are pushing a circular steel bearing into the notch of the blade that is also aligned into the metal framed back spacer making it all one solid metal piece when engaged. The Ball Bearing lock is also self adjusting as it wears insuring that the lock will never develope "play". You can upgrade the Ball Bearing lock too with titanium ball cages , ti liners & a ti back spacer making is way stronger than it already is. There's no upgrades available for the AXIS lock other than ti omega spring's that I know of. Lock bar or "AXIS" locks use two spring's to push a horizontal steel rod over the notch of the blade & there's one other bar built into the frame of the knife to keep the blade from folding the other direction but that's it. I'm not saying the "AXIS" lock is a poor design , on the contrary I think they are one of the best locks out in the market today , the action is super smooth plus ambidextrous , it's incredibly strong & locks up with zero blade play. The omega spring's are the only aspect of the design that's suspect & that's only if they fail. I've yet to have an omega spring break on me. Personally the Ball Bearing lock is my favorite with the "AXIS" / lock bar lock coming in a close second. I just picked up the SOG Seal XR. The new SOG XR lock is supposed to be rated at 2,000lbs & is said to give the tri-ad lock a run for it's money. That's a bold statement to make from SOG , I'm going to put this knife to the test & see for myself !
Don't do stupid things with knives and carry the right tool for the job. Knives are cutting tools. Any well made knife is going to work just fine for normal cutting tasks. If you're using a knife for something other than cutting, you're using the wrong tool for the job. If you insist on doing stupid things with your knives instead of carrying the right tool for the job, carry a fixed blade either on you (holsters have come a long way and they're pretty easy to carry these days) or in your car.
Nice video! I prefer the compression lock just for the smooth, silent and safe one hand action. When I’m cutting packages or tape in the office the knife will be back in my pocket even before my colleagues realized I had a knife.
My first video of yours. THX for all the info I needed. Also I love your voice and accent. I would love to listen to an audiobook read by you, something by Twain would sound awesome. SUB.
Look I get that Nick and his fans don't like Cold Steel because they like pretty rather than utilitarian. Totally fine. Everyone has their preference. But am I the only one that notices that he spoke for way longer and acted like the Spyderco Compression lock was the most amazing thing in the world when in reality it's just a liner lock that's been moved to the back with an extra pin? Like everyone has biases, but dang man. Make it a bit less obvious when you cream yourself everytime you see a Spyderco.
Can anyone (or Nick) recommend a strong folding knife (mechanism) for bushcraft/survival. Not for batoning with, but general outdoor activities which is quite hardy.
Then there is the Ron Lake tab back lock which solves the problem of some knives (iIm thinking from Fox) that have a back unlock action which has too much travel and/or is too stiff so the knife is too difficult to UNlock.
I have a knife that snaps loudly into place and is quite nicely locked, except... there is no unlocking mechanism at all. It seems the only way to unlock it is through brute force. Just to sure it wasn't a mistake, I ordered a second one, and sure enough, it was the same. Does this locking mechanism have a name?
making a folder "foolproof" means compensating for user error, but what about "manufacturer-proof"? where some combination of 1;ineptness of design & execution, 2;cost-cutting(eg paperthin linerlocks to save on springsteel) & 3;absence of quality control(knives not tested prior to packaging), combine to compromise the safety & reliability of a locking mechanism? is there a locking mechanism, that while remaining cheap to implement. is less sensitive to vices of manufacturers like Z-Hunter & M-Tech?
I have a guardian 4.5 in the same setup! Since you generally like smaller knives, let me know if you ever want to exchange knives for the 5.5! (Plus I'd throw in the difference in cost)
I've carried a Spyderco Military (liner-lock) for over 20 years... Never close to anything like a locking failure... And this is coming from a certified "cardboard warrior"
I'm just here for the TRIAD LOOOOOOOCK comments.
Good lock, but an ugly knife.
@Backyard Samurai I've never had a bad QC knife from cold steel. On the other hand I've had some atrocious shit from benchmade an besides from being over priced they seem to be under heat treated in cut tests. The only problem with CS is lack of higher end options. Cold steel + gold class options = perfect imo
@Backyard Samurai Dang man, you're still at this? Haven't heard from you in a while. Hope you're having a great New Year! I miss your videos.
🤣🤣🤣⚔
I don’t own a cold steel but I ❤️ cold steel
All I wanted was to learn enough to buy a good budget knife for work but here I am... Watching Nick Shabazz and Metal Complex almost every day; enjoying the thrill of hunt for many many knives I’ll never own lol
It's a rabbit hole!
Truth.
Opinel is a great choice, nothing wrong with other knives, but thin blades slice and few knives are thinner than opinel.
@@NickShabazz Started collecting a while back, you're not kidding about the rabbit hole. There are so many cool styles and designs, could have used your knowledge and wisdom years ago.
try spyderco or byrd, i havnt looked back.
I came in mostly for the strongest lock. When he said ‘unsatisfying answer’ I immediately thought of fixed blade.
Maybe fixed blades are truly the best
@@joelstatosky1817 - yuh think?
THE STRONGEST LOCK IS THE CAPS LOCK BUTTON ON MY KEYBOARD
- Trmxzer0 -
Haha.. nice
Witty, humour is 'A Beautiful Thing'. 😀
Ahahahhaahhahh
If you really want to know....Blade HQ several years ago did a very extensive test of all lock types, where they put stress on them to the point of failure.
If I remember correctly, the lock back came out on top.
Yep, back locks and variants (e.g. tri-ad lock, scorpion lock) are very, very strong.
I think they did it on some Spydercos, and ball bearing lock locked very well. I think the blade broke even before the lock failed. Not sure though, It's been years since I've seen that video.
@Castle Bravo I remember a test with Spydercos only, but they did more of them.
I was Attempting to be brief in my first post. LOL!
When they did the first test, it was a bunch of different locking mechanisms by several different manufacturers.
Then they thought it would be more accurate with less variables in manufacturing and quality if they just did one brand with consistent manufacturing. So they chose Spyderco and did all the different locking mechanisms with Spyderco on the second trial.
Mikuláš Mecháček
You are correct,See my post below.
Who else knew all of this but still watched the whole videos 😂
Thanks Nick, for the rational comments about what is a good enough and safe locking mechanism.
If you love knives, this video is the best way to spend your 30 minutes. I got a lot of good good points. Also simple and easy to understand. Thank you, Sir!
The strongest is Triad Lock. Point. Now... one may not need that kind of strength, but Triad is the strongest. 🙂👊
lionsteel daghetta... could be a valid contender for the title, a "sliding-bar-back-lock". That said, the only time a knife failed on me, it was the frame not the lock :D
Thinking about it, it should be possible to make a "sliding-bar-triad-lock"...
LMAO, that “cop out” was countered by the Fixed Blade card. Very well played Nick, hilarious and informative, and absolutely perfect info as always.
This is a very helpful video for newcomers to the community. It can be hard to get to know all these things and the knife nerds usually forget how it was when they were new to the hobby.
Anyway, I think that you had a great point, that every modern lock is theoretically strong enough for every day use, but all of them can fail if not designed/made properly. We should seek real quality over theoretical strength of a lock when looking for a knife.
well if our using your knife in the way it should be used a lock means nothing. the blade will be pressed up into the opened position against a blade stop made of steel. so it wont close on you anyway. its when you get to trying to use it in a none designed way that locks get stressed and become important for the user so you dont lose a finger. but thats just my opinion
Totally Agreed
@@bigsean2473 Yep
Since guns or fixed blades are not legal or practical to carry, locks for folders matter. Anyone can have a self defense encounter where a EDC knife is used for self defense, and a lock failing can be disastrous. It happened to me. Thanks for this video. A knife is the right tool for self defense, but it must have the right lock.
SpyderCo's compression lock is my favorite locking mechanism. It may not be the best to other knife enthusiast, but I love how easy it is to work and how strong it is for my use
yeah,me too
I had a liner lock fail and get stitches. Also had an Axis lock fail on me. Ever since then, it's been ONLY Cold Steel Tri-Ad locks for me. I'm still doing some research on if there's a frame lock I would trust.
Umm. Try a fixed blade?
have a "fleamarket copy" of the Spyderco Polywog with a modified Axis lock and i have used and abused this little fkr to hell and back and not once has this thing even shown a sign of failure of any kind. i dare say this copy is as strong or indeed STRONGER than the original damn thing in that the entire thing is ALL stainless construction. im not easily impressed by a knife but this one really surprised me. i also own a number of other brands from CS, Benchmade, Spyderco. i like them all and each although having their limitations in some regard or another, all perform as expected.
I have had a few Kershaw linerlocks, I never could trust them. I bought a Clip point Cold Steel Recon-1. No more linerlocks or frame locks. I do have a Steel Will Apostate with the frame lock, I only carry that when "out on the town" but the Triad lock is what I trust 100 percent..
@@gregorygolden1296 Steel Will Apostate is an awesome knife 👍
New to knives here. But I've been watching your videos, Blade HQ, and Metal Complex videos for days now! I'm hooked haha I just ordered my first knives today. Got the Ontario Rat II in D2 (sadly with the cheesy looking carbon fiber, I wish I had watched your review before ordering lol), and the Civivi Elementum in black G-10 and D2. Just wanted to say I appreciate your content greatly! You're one of the more critical people and it's really helpful. I mean you don't like crap on stuff but you seem to have no reserve pointing out flaws or things you don't like, more so than others.
I just picked up the spyderco smock. Loving this button lock compression lock... so good :)
Honestly, I came for the info, but stayed for his puns. Gotta love his puns. They’re always so sharp.
In my opinion, I find large Folders hard to clean after gutting game, so Fixed are the way to go for hard hunting use. Folding pockets knives are small and used for small nonabusive jobs. Right tool for right job. Love em all, I just don't use large Folders except for looking at, trading, customizing, fun to work with. To each his own!!!
If I 'gut'something,I'm going to be throwing that knife in the river asap
I live in the UK where locking knives are legally problematic, so I only have a few. Particularly interesting therefore to see your illustration of actions and mechanisms I will seldom encounter. Really interesting and educational thank you.
@@lakinwillson4124 Quite so! But don't say that too loudly or they'll ban slipjoints too!
I half expected this to be a 10 second video of Nick saying it doesn’t really matter and if you’re asking that question, get a fixed blade😂
Its a 30 minute video instead, but the point stays the same
Great video! Fantastic collection! (I'm Jealous) but I see one glaring omission here. A simple tried and true folding knife design that's been around for thousands of years... The Balisong. (Butterfly knife)
Possibly the strongest lock design of any folding knife.
Even if you suck at fancy flipping, you still need a good bali in this amazing collection!
Solid coverage of the State of usual locks today. Got my EWC a few days ago and love the action both opening and closing. A very unique design that is a 10 on the cool scale. Thanks Ray!
I'm sorry if my English is not absolutely correct. Greetings from 🇩🇪.
Locking blades are a thing I'm struggling with, since i cut myself with a buck 110. I abused it too much. Clearly my fault, but at this point i started thinking about locks in general.
You have slipjoints, locking blades and fixed blades. In my opinion it's a bit like climbing with a robust rope, without a rope and with a rope that holds a little bit. If you're climbing with robust rope (fixed) you know that nothing can happen. You don't have to be careful. If you're climbing without a rope (slipjoint) you are much more careful because you don't want to hurt yourself or die. But if you are climbing with a rope that holds some weight but not that much, you never know what happens if you make a mistake and in the end you are as careful as if there is no rope at all. So, what's the point of locks?
I hope you understand what I'm talking about.
Blade Hq's 2nd lock strength test, circa 2016: ruclips.net/video/ERxHUXAFVs4/видео.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE&t=725
Thank you for explaining this for a beginner to understand.
Excellent video Nick thanks for touching on so many options.
I think one thing you should mention is lots of locks will work better or worse depending on how much hand dexterity you have, like the deadbolt may be easier than a liner lock if you have gloves, or the axis may be easier than the triad lock if you have weak hand muscles
Triiiiiiiiiaaaaaaaaaaaaaaad!
🤣
@Backyard Samurai first of all it was a joke referencing a meme and secondly just because I've shown budget blades in videos doesn't mean I haven't owned other knives....I've had cold steels and even Chris Reeves, Medfords and customs just didn't do videos on them.......
I have had knives for years and used them for all kinds of purposes. IMO back locks are the strongest locks on folders out there period. Of course if you truly want the most durable knife for any use I would recomend a fixed blade.
Same in this test: ruclips.net/video/ERxHUXAFVs4/видео.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE&t=725
I'd put money on a well built Balisong beating a lock back any day if the week for strength.
Best Axis. Period also thrilled to see the patent expire to see what other manufacturers do with it.
Your opinion period. Even though my daily carry ATM is a benchmade super freek, ill never (probably) buy another axis lock knife. I just dont like it. Much prefer a frame or liner lock.
So many knives for so many preferences.
4 4c 75 74 68 65 72 61 6 it is an opinion for sure and I’m sure the comments for this video will be varied and very opinionated. So with that I’ll say to each there own but for me the Axis lock gets three things right.
1. Accidental folding or failure of the mechanism is extremely low
2. Fingers never need to be in the path of the blade while closing
3. Super fast one handed deployment and stow of the blade
@@chrisherbert4454 That I can agree with.
Agreed. And the Benchmade assist version has a secondary lock that locks it open or closed.
Love your videos. They got me into the EDC life, much love from Texas
DizzyDee Edc Life for life haha
Man justifies knife addiction.
just messing with you, nice summary video, this will be a great video for people getting into the hobby.
There's nothing wrong with having a backup or thirty.
New drinking game. Take a shot every time Nick says "A beautiful thing"
Been doing it since you mentioned it 5 months ago. Pretty much an alcoholic now. Thanks.
#dead
I avoid linear lock as much as i can. Frame and back locks I like. Simple, easy, hard to mess up.
Even as a leftie, the compression lock is still my favorite. Axis locks are really close, but I prefer Spyderco designs
You can order left handed compression lock knives from spyderco. I have a friend who works there and showed me a few
theshapeexists yes Spyderco does make a few lefty compression locks but only basic black handle silver blade varieties.
Spyderco designs are the very reason I DON'T like them
😂🤣😂 what a great vid. You come in thinking, “I’m finally going to find out”, and you leave realizing the revelation that, “WOW! He’s totally right. Any locking mechanism will do the job so what does it matter.” Buy a damn fixed blade if you need the strongest lock! Great vid! 👍🏻
Excellent review, thanks.
I've heard some people worry about an automatic or assist opening in their pocket. I don't think that happens very often and I don't worry about it, although it has happened with my Boker pin lock -- I don't pocket carry that any more. A secondary lock which both locks the blade open and closed would satisfy the worriers. Benchmade assists have that secondary lock, it locks the slide lock in place, either open or closed. At least it does on my Barrage.
The Opinel can get a little sticky to open, being wood. The way to open it is to unlock it and lightly tap the extended knob at the end of the handle on a hard surface.
Just to clarify, the bolsters are the parts around the pivot or the overlay over the pivot area. What covers the lock bar or the rest of the handle would I guess just be the scales or overlays. I would suggest adding a Superlock when CKF comes out with their SnecX collab!
Thanks Nick for another indepth tutorial
BUCK gets credited for "inventing" the lockback design but the fact is that design had been around for many decades before BUCK started producing the 110. They just popularized the lockback design (and possibly improved upon it) not invented it.
Awesome explanation thanks greetings from the super ancient megalithic city of TIAHUANAKU BOLIVIA 🇧🇴
This video= A beautiful thing
Lynn Thompson doesn't give a damn! He's out there cutting up cinder blocks right now!
Something like that, actually.
This is a GREAT VIDEO Nick!!!
Love your reviews you do a great job
Informative and entertaining thanks
Great video Nick
A failed lock on a SOG is actually what started my "higher end" knife collection. Believe I bought a PM2 sprint and it was game over from there
Same here. Wanted a real pocket knife and mistakenly bought a SOG. The thing broke apart after about a month. After that I got a Delica 4...that started the addiction.
@@thefinder8087 I had a SOG trident that failed on me and cut me right to the bone. Initially I wanted a lock that would never fail and I saw a blade hq video of them cutting a tree down with the PM2. Thousands and thousands of dollars later here I'm 😂
Your speaking and presentation style is mesmerizing. Very informative video. Subscribed!
I believe BLADE HQ did a big test of various types of locks. Cold Steel also has a vid up. I believe the old back lock was about the strongest in testing static load.
Blade hq has made that video, and I believe youre right, but almost all the locks took so much force to break that the knife part of the knife became pretty much irrelevent
@@batcarpet1225 Blade Hq's 2nd lock strength test, circa 2016: ruclips.net/video/ERxHUXAFVs4/видео.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE&t=725
I almost made my first RUclips video. But Nick (and others) have already done it...Ah well. I'll just stay an avid watcher and commenter.
Great video...muchos infos.
I'm glad to learn that I'm not the only knife knut that forgets the name (model) of a knife in my collection.
I was worried about dementia, but not so much anymore...thanks.
Nice watch. Thanks for the tour, Nick. Im new to knives and was looking for something as a last ditch approach to self defense. ( Recent shoulder injury has mostly knocked out my right arm's formerly good strength, until and unless therepy and time can restore it) The diversity of folding knives was at first overwhelming but Im learning. The fear I have about some of these lock methods is in a struggle its possible it could become unlocked. The lock the Cold Steel company has seems the best to me so far, like on the SR1. The unlock is physically covered by my hand. Still learning.... thanks again.
When I was a kid a friend of mine had the brilliant idea to stab a basketball with a traditional backlock knife some 40 years ago. He used an overhand grip. I just knew even at 10 years old this wasn't going to go well. He squeezed the knife hard and inadvertently depressed the backlock with his grip and while stabbing the inflated basketball the knife closed on his fingers. It is the reason today that I still cringe when I see backlock knives. I can still see the horror and is the only flaw I can find in that lock. Not a good choice knife if you intend it as a stabbing tool. Food for thought.
@Daniel Alejandro You're suggesting that they are immune to this? God you guys are annoying.
@@Osprey1994 it would be a lot harder. Triad locks have a really long travel before they free the blade completely
@@valkyriesurvives5109 - i hope u r right because The Potos comment has me very FRUSTRATED that after literally hundreds of hours of knife research i thought i finally found the right knife to invest in until i read his story.
Yes because all back locks are the same and so you should just straight up dismiss any back locks without any research. Liner/frame locks have taken more fingers than other locks. 😂
I'm going to have to disagree and say that for most utility based applications, the back lock is the way to go. As much as I like my other knives, my back lock knives are the ones I carry most due to the strength in the design, lack of free swinging action, and lack of accidental openings. Their ease of use and recognizability also makes them inherently less frightening to non-knife people. Yeah, a fixed blade is best for hard use, but if that isn't an option for legal or other reasons, a back lock is likely the way to go.
In my experience, the more simple, traditional, and boring a knife is, the more acceptable it is to have.
I did a bunch of research and came to the conclusion that the triad lock is the only lock that is substantially stronger than other locks almost every other lock the only thing that matters is ease of deployment and closing and a reliability of deployment, lockbacks will close and open reliably, but i could open and close 9 out of 10 knives more quickly and easily than a lockback, honestly the marginal difference in strength isnt worth it on a back lock. I would also put axis lock up there with triad lock because it is less likely to fail from impact and is better for battoning even if its not recommended its a genuinely more beneficial strength than everything but triad lock.
Carry a RECON-1 with the Tri-ad lock. I never have to worry about lock failure. Not the prettiest knife, but if the world was to take a shit I am glad it's in my pocket everyday.
This vid is clear case and point why you sir are my go2 reviewer
Man I need a Parata. Not sure why, but I’m a fan of that design.
It caught my eye too 🤪
Scott eDog yeah then I saw the full review, and it’s only vg10, and in the Japan factory. If they’re going to do a knife with an interesting lock do it in Taiwan with a good steel.
Thanks Nick, detailed descriptions with examples helped to flesh out the understanding I had from looking at diagrams. I liked your insight into pros & cons of each; but I gather there isn't all that much to say about locking mechanisms. Would love to have a video from you on deployment mechanisms (flipper/thumb stud/front flip/etc). More insights to be gleaned on that front I imagine.
Thanks Nick, you're entertaining to listen to. To a southern boy, you sound like a "wise guy", (pun intended). But really, you are a smart man, that was very informative, I've been collecting knives for a few years and had never seen a few of those locks. I'm looking forward to your disassembly video. I like any lock that keeps me from cutting my fingers with an unintentional closing of the blade. Slip joints are probably the only dangerous knives around. Unless you use the knife for something that it was not intended for (like using it as a punch and hitting it on the end like a chisel) you probably shouldn't have a problem and the strength of the lock won't be an issue. The only time I've had a knife (slip joint) close up on my was when I was trying to use it as a hole punch or reamer. I do like my Firebird (Ganzo) knives with the Axis (sliding bar) lock, like you said you can pull the lock pin back against the spring and the blade is free swinging so with a little bit of practice you can flip it open or closed. They also have very free swinging liner locks because all their knives use bearing pivots and blade flippers.
That protech is beautiful
You left out, in the pun category, a button pun . Which really pushes my buttons!
Great video Nick. Thanks for taking time to talk to us lefties. It's the reason I'm on the video to begin with.
My fixed-blade, combat Bowie knife fits nicely in my watch pocket 👌👌👌
Interesting video, I am wary of new to me designs so usually stay with back locks.
Good video. I think the safest slip joints are the ones with finger choils that make the blade impossible to close when your finger is on them, like on the Spyderco Squeak.
I agree completely!
Seeing all of these as a balisong enjoyer lol
Everybody seems to forget about balisongs when discussing lock strength. Lol
Balisongs have been around forever, and still a stronger locking mechanism than any of these other pocket knives.
I love that Hank Azaria is into knives.
I've been collecting knives for a wile and the longer I do it the more I find that knives are like Pokemon, and I must collect them all...
Very interesting
So... is the compression lock the triad lock of the liner locks... hmmm 🤔
(Just a weird thought, I need more sleep haha)
With the external stop pin (e.g. Sage 5) it certainly is Tri-Ad among liner locks. With a default setup like Para 2 and Junior it's more like a Lock Back among liner locks-that cut out for the stop pin through the liner does weaken the liner itself at some degree.
Still waiting for that Buck 110 disassembly ;)
what is that beautiful little Protech
I am surprised that you did not mention the ball lock which is in my view fairly common among knife makers. I have a few knives with those in my collection. The nature of the lock will allow for easy deployment or a more difficult one. The back lock for exampe is harder to deploy because of the tension of the spring, and you will not find a flipper with such a lock mecanism. Overall a good slip joint will be much more secure to use (because of the consistency and resistance) than a cheap locking knife that can fail at any time.
Any thoughts on a Palanquilla lock?
Where's the ball-bearing lock?! #HowDareYou
Right!? I've got the Manix 2XL 💯❤🔥❗
It and the bolt lock are basically patent protection bypasses of the axis lock. Granted, they are better cause of the lack of omega springs.
@@rlanger3108 The Ball Bearing lock is better than the AXIS lock in more ways than just spring's. The design of the Ball Bearing lock is COMPLETELY different than the bar lock / "AXIS" lock making it stronger & more reliable. There's only one spring on the Ball Bearing lock that has a vertical metal rod going through the middle of it. That rod & spring are pushing a circular steel bearing into the notch of the blade that is also aligned into the metal framed back spacer making it all one solid metal piece when engaged. The Ball Bearing lock is also self adjusting as it wears insuring that the lock will never develope "play". You can upgrade the Ball Bearing lock too with titanium ball cages , ti liners & a ti back spacer making is way stronger than it already is. There's no upgrades available for the AXIS lock other than ti omega spring's that I know of. Lock bar or "AXIS" locks use two spring's to push a horizontal steel rod over the notch of the blade & there's one other bar built into the frame of the knife to keep the blade from folding the other direction but that's it. I'm not saying the "AXIS" lock is a poor design , on the contrary I think they are one of the best locks out in the market today , the action is super smooth plus ambidextrous , it's incredibly strong & locks up with zero blade play. The omega spring's are the only aspect of the design that's suspect & that's only if they fail. I've yet to have an omega spring break on me. Personally the Ball Bearing lock is my favorite with the "AXIS" / lock bar lock coming in a close second. I just picked up the SOG Seal XR. The new SOG XR lock is supposed to be rated at 2,000lbs & is said to give the tri-ad lock a run for it's money. That's a bold statement to make from SOG , I'm going to put this knife to the test & see for myself !
I got me a Yale, works fine
Great information ! I gotta get that Shabazz Autograph Pocket knife , no doubts !
Nice lock review...I didn’t know there were so dang many locks. That’s a bunch of locks.
My favorite is the Smock Button Compression Lock.
Cold Steel's "triad lock" is by far the strongest I have ever seen!
Indeed
I've got a Geber Paul 2PW with an axial lock. Would that be similar to the deadbolt?
That feels like, Nick needs a reason to show off his collection.
Don't do stupid things with knives and carry the right tool for the job. Knives are cutting tools. Any well made knife is going to work just fine for normal cutting tasks. If you're using a knife for something other than cutting, you're using the wrong tool for the job.
If you insist on doing stupid things with your knives instead of carrying the right tool for the job, carry a fixed blade either on you (holsters have come a long way and they're pretty easy to carry these days) or in your car.
Great comment!
They even have neck knives now like the CRKT Minimalist or the Mtech 20-30.
*Any* folding knife? I'm sure a certain USA designed hunting knife would love to make a comeback. You know, the green one...
Nice video! I prefer the compression lock just for the smooth, silent and safe one hand action. When I’m cutting packages or tape in the office the knife will be back in my pocket even before my colleagues realized I had a knife.
Cold steel triad
Not to crazy about folders, I'll stick to my fixed blades.
For EDC .
My first video of yours. THX for all the info I needed. Also I love your voice and accent. I would love to listen to an audiobook read by you, something by Twain would sound awesome. SUB.
Look I get that Nick and his fans don't like Cold Steel because they like pretty rather than utilitarian. Totally fine. Everyone has their preference. But am I the only one that notices that he spoke for way longer and acted like the Spyderco Compression lock was the most amazing thing in the world when in reality it's just a liner lock that's been moved to the back with an extra pin? Like everyone has biases, but dang man. Make it a bit less obvious when you cream yourself everytime you see a Spyderco.
Can anyone (or Nick) recommend a strong folding knife (mechanism) for bushcraft/survival. Not for batoning with, but general outdoor activities which is quite hardy.
Then there is the Ron Lake tab back lock which solves the problem of some knives (iIm thinking from Fox) that have a back unlock action which has too much travel and/or is too stiff so the knife is too difficult to UNlock.
My friend told me that the tri-ad lock is stronger than a fixed blade. He knows everything about knives, so I'm inclined to believe him.
... Godspeed.
"stronger than fixed blade" ...no offense, but that is ridiculous. Your friend doesn't know what he's talking about.
I have a knife that snaps loudly into place and is quite nicely locked, except... there is no unlocking mechanism at all. It seems the only way to unlock it is through brute force. Just to sure it wasn't a mistake, I ordered a second one, and sure enough, it was the same. Does this locking mechanism have a name?
The Benchmade Axis Lock is the best ever created, and only theirs not all the other copies from other brands
Sure Triad
making a folder "foolproof" means compensating for user error, but what about "manufacturer-proof"? where some combination of 1;ineptness of design & execution, 2;cost-cutting(eg paperthin linerlocks to save on springsteel) & 3;absence of quality control(knives not tested prior to packaging), combine to compromise the safety & reliability of a locking mechanism? is there a locking mechanism, that while remaining cheap to implement. is less sensitive to vices of manufacturers like Z-Hunter & M-Tech?
I have a guardian 4.5 in the same setup! Since you generally like smaller knives, let me know if you ever want to exchange knives for the 5.5! (Plus I'd throw in the difference in cost)
Hey Nick, when are we getting the opinel no. 13 review?
Tacklecentral Fishing Folding machete haha
@@monkeyfaceII I can't wait for him to call it a small knife.
I've carried a Spyderco Military (liner-lock) for over 20 years... Never close to anything like a locking failure... And this is coming from a certified "cardboard warrior"
What is that big crkt with the deadbolt lock? It's so ridiculous I love it.
@Castle Bravo yeesh. I want it. But yeah at that pricepoint...
Came to start learning about knives ... stayed for the lesson voiced by bugs bunny