The thing that really blows my mind about RC4WD is that they could make the trucks twice as good out of the box if they just left out the parts everyone throws away. They could make a better truck at no extra cost, but they just don't.
So I’ve been trying to decide between the Marlin or the Midnight Edition and I finally ordered the Marlin. Also ordered a Hobbywing 1080 and Holmes 16t motor and Flashhobby 45kg servo. Thanks for your content.
I am totally in love with my Marlin Crawler and I am having a blast watching you get to know your Marlin. Now I did get RC4WD parts to fix the binding problem with the back leafs over the BowHouse ones I like to use RC4WD parts when ever I can. Did get the antirap from the ones that make the belly skid and sliders like the ones you made and then found that RC4WD makes one as welland looks much better. I did save up for the GCM Racing scale transmission that give you 11% over drive in the front. I am looking forward to seeing what you do next. Thanks for sharing your videos with us.
What a happy little truck. Nice mods. Honestly with the added clearance from transfer case cross member 2.0 I think you could do drop shackles or run a smaller tire and pick up some roll stability.
I know you are all about link rigs....me too...left leafers 5 years ago,but with advancements in the design I'm building another... A&m everything with bruiser leafs and shackles with vanquish f10 axles,plus...plus....motor clock...to lower the over all cg.....im calling my personal challenge to build leaf rig that can hang with the linked rigs.....
You can install a Panhard for stabilization front axle, and I recommend an anti-roll bar on the rear axle. After that, you can stop constantly replacing leaf spring.
The loose front end is completely gone after a shackle flip. I still haven't put enough time on the leafs to worry about fatigue yet-- I also don't mind limited rear travel.
Nice mods! Great job on the skid and sliders! They look great and look to perform just as well if not better than the store bought versions! I did not do the o-ring mod on my Marlin because I did not think it needed it. And after my springs loosened up, I'm glad I didn't. I get plenty of flex out the leaf springs without having too much. Too much flex is never a good thing! Nice idea on the shock fluid! I may try that out in mine. Looking forward to the next vid!
Also, I changed the foams to the anti foams for a 4.19 tire and it improved those stock tires a lot, also you will have to make/buy a anti wrap bar as you get it better!
Definitely going to try tuning the IROKs as I remembered what RC4WD foams tend to feel like-- more brick than pillow. I am gonna try my hand at an anti-wrap bar, it looks pretty straightforward.
Isn't it amazing how well it does with terrible suspension? Those are probably the best RtR tires on any truck. I'm not a fan of the o ring mod. Cut one end off the helper leaves in the back and run two of them, leaves forward. The front driveshaft engagement will be fine unless you do the shackle flip.
Try terraflex shackles on the rear, they give tons of extra articulation, although can be a little tippy as they are essentially completely unsuspended/damped travel
I don’t know how far I’m going to chase the flex- this might be more of an expedition into “it is what it is and it ain’t what it ain’t.” Meaning that I think learning to wheel “into” the weaknesses of the leafs might be more rewarding than trying to make it behave like a 4-link. This guy ain’t never gonna be a four link, so it’s about trying to do more with less. Also, those damn shackles are like 40 bucks. Criminal!
Awesome mate, looking forward to watching the metamorphosis of your Marlin and picking one up one day soon. Enjoy your sandwich and absolutely No Regerts....👍
The long wheelbase version handles better it seems not to go light on the front end like the Swb version .when climbing and doesn’t seem to tip over as easy ..the real long wheelbase hi lux will outwheel a swb up hilly tracks without a problem ..👍
Stay far away from the revolver shackles. I've tried them 3 times and just keep being disappointed. They wrap extremely bad and snap leaf springs and unload at the worst times.
I had read some forum posts expressing much the same sentiment. I think I'm fortunate in that I "started" on linked suspension, so I have no desire to make a leafer try to act like a 4-link. The front shackle flip is a definite performance enhancer, but the o-ring mod on the rear (with the intermediate leaf removed) is the extent of "modification" to the rear end, I think. I haven't even wheeled it enough to break the leafs in. I need to get on that.
They are awesome little trucks. I ended up fully linking my yota and building another tr2 chassis and outfitting it with the blazer body. I used the lift kit and shims on the blazer to achieve the desired look. The yota was a mean machine linked with rsd shocks ballistic fab wheels and ground hawg II tires. It was a build though because several friends said tf2 trucks would never run with his vaterra, which I ended up actually outdoing on a crawl day. My marlin I did the same as you minus the oring mod plus a body lift to get rid of the tire rub.
@@wncrcandoffroad3919 My only problem is I drive it like it's a purpose built 4-link rig, and as the only hardbody in the fleet, I feel like I'm going to end up mashing that shell up real bad. I've already borked it hard enough to eject the body twice. I need to learn to adjust my umm... level of aggression.
@@CrawlerCanyon there is definitely a learning curve to the leaf springs. With my blazer being heavy I believe it helped on the leaf springs it was just a hiking trail truck. I'm sure you'll get the hang of it. It just takes some driving and adjusting tactics for that rig. I enjoy the content your putting out and your course is my dream yard lol
It’s not the truck it’s your cement setup it’s made into slippery wall everywhere I would try using rocks maybe re-cement it with rocks on top so your able to crawl and climb good luck
Maybe check out some other videos. Not only is it not all cement, a lot of it isn't cement at all. There's a whole lot of rocks, too. The truck is sitting on rock in the thumbnail. I'll accompany this with the fact that if a rig can be tuned to perform well on lower-grip surfaces it will absolutely excel on high-grip surfaces. The same cannot be said of the opposite.
I didn’t go through the whole balancing ritual, but at it sits right now, it’s 2738g, 1510g front and 1228g rear, for a F/R distribution of 55/45. ABS doesn’t mess around- the body, even without the roll bar, is 440g.
Man I love your channel bro but there's nobody in the universe to tell you anything honestly it's only the blood of Jesus that there is no such thing as anything else they can reinforce her guy or anything like that it's only the blood of the Lamb of God Almighty Jesus Christ
Man, the skid and sliders came out aces!
The thing that really blows my mind about RC4WD is that they could make the trucks twice as good out of the box if they just left out the parts everyone throws away. They could make a better truck at no extra cost, but they just don't.
I think we would all agree that that applies to Traxxas in equal measure.
So I’ve been trying to decide between the Marlin or the Midnight Edition and I finally ordered the Marlin. Also ordered a Hobbywing 1080 and Holmes 16t motor and Flashhobby 45kg servo. Thanks for your content.
I am totally in love with my Marlin Crawler and I am having a blast watching you get to know your Marlin. Now I did get RC4WD parts to fix the binding problem with the back leafs over the BowHouse ones I like to use RC4WD parts when ever I can. Did get the antirap from the ones that make the belly skid and sliders like the ones you made and then found that RC4WD makes one as welland looks much better. I did save up for the GCM Racing scale transmission that give you 11% over drive in the front. I am looking forward to seeing what you do next. Thanks for sharing your videos with us.
If you put the removed leaf springs above the main leaf springs, you can slightly reduce axle wrap.
Not irrationally proud, you did a really good job man, that looks like a light and clean aluminum version of what A&M garage makes
What a happy little truck. Nice mods. Honestly with the added clearance from transfer case cross member 2.0 I think you could do drop shackles or run a smaller tire and pick up some roll stability.
I know you are all about link rigs....me too...left leafers 5 years ago,but with advancements in the design I'm building another...
A&m everything with bruiser leafs and shackles with vanquish f10 axles,plus...plus....motor clock...to lower the over all cg.....im calling my personal challenge to build leaf rig that can hang with the linked rigs.....
You can install a Panhard for stabilization front axle, and I recommend an anti-roll bar on the rear axle. After that, you can stop constantly replacing leaf spring.
The loose front end is completely gone after a shackle flip. I still haven't put enough time on the leafs to worry about fatigue yet-- I also don't mind limited rear travel.
Check out the a&m garage shackle reversal +4 mm and bumper and the hobbywing fusion
Nice mods! Great job on the skid and sliders! They look great and look to perform just as well if not better than the store bought versions! I did not do the o-ring mod on my Marlin because I did not think it needed it. And after my springs loosened up, I'm glad I didn't. I get plenty of flex out the leaf springs without having too much. Too much flex is never a good thing! Nice idea on the shock fluid! I may try that out in mine. Looking forward to the next vid!
Also, I changed the foams to the anti foams for a 4.19 tire and it improved those stock tires a lot, also you will have to make/buy a anti wrap bar as you get it better!
Definitely going to try tuning the IROKs as I remembered what RC4WD foams tend to feel like-- more brick than pillow. I am gonna try my hand at an anti-wrap bar, it looks pretty straightforward.
Isn't it amazing how well it does with terrible suspension? Those are probably the best RtR tires on any truck.
I'm not a fan of the o ring mod.
Cut one end off the helper leaves in the back and run two of them, leaves forward.
The front driveshaft engagement will be fine unless you do the shackle flip.
I have concluded that you are indeed an RC Wizard of some sorts! Fantastic work. Makes me wanna get my marlin out and wrench! Thanks dude.
This is a fun series for sure. Great change of pace and a new challenge.
Really enjoying this, I’m just drawn to this rig. Thanks for the great content. Keep ‘em coming.
What are your thoughts on leaf springs on LCG chassis. Is it any good for crawling performance?
Try terraflex shackles on the rear, they give tons of extra articulation, although can be a little tippy as they are essentially completely unsuspended/damped travel
I don’t know how far I’m going to chase the flex- this might be more of an expedition into “it is what it is and it ain’t what it ain’t.” Meaning that I think learning to wheel “into” the weaknesses of the leafs might be more rewarding than trying to make it behave like a 4-link. This guy ain’t never gonna be a four link, so it’s about trying to do more with less.
Also, those damn shackles are like 40 bucks. Criminal!
Awesome mate, looking forward to watching the metamorphosis of your Marlin and picking one up one day soon.
Enjoy your sandwich and absolutely No Regerts....👍
This series is going to make me want to try one.
i'm running 1 leaf spring in mine rides great
I'm a great fan of the Reedy Radon 16 turn 5 slot motor with the 1080 and a 10 tooth pinion, have you changed settings on that for drag brake?
I dialed the drag brake all the way up, and that Brood just doesn’t have the oomph to keep the rig in place. I’ll be testing other motors for sure.
The long wheelbase version handles better it seems not to go light on the front end like the Swb version .when climbing and doesn’t seem to tip over as easy ..the real long wheelbase hi lux will outwheel a swb up hilly tracks without a problem ..👍
rear leaf shakel monts.... take left side part on right sidt problem solved ;)
Super Cool Rig and Video👍I think u deserve that sandwich
Stay far away from the revolver shackles. I've tried them 3 times and just keep being disappointed. They wrap extremely bad and snap leaf springs and unload at the worst times.
I had read some forum posts expressing much the same sentiment. I think I'm fortunate in that I "started" on linked suspension, so I have no desire to make a leafer try to act like a 4-link. The front shackle flip is a definite performance enhancer, but the o-ring mod on the rear (with the intermediate leaf removed) is the extent of "modification" to the rear end, I think. I haven't even wheeled it enough to break the leafs in. I need to get on that.
They are awesome little trucks. I ended up fully linking my yota and building another tr2 chassis and outfitting it with the blazer body. I used the lift kit and shims on the blazer to achieve the desired look. The yota was a mean machine linked with rsd shocks ballistic fab wheels and ground hawg II tires. It was a build though because several friends said tf2 trucks would never run with his vaterra, which I ended up actually outdoing on a crawl day. My marlin I did the same as you minus the oring mod plus a body lift to get rid of the tire rub.
@@wncrcandoffroad3919 My only problem is I drive it like it's a purpose built 4-link rig, and as the only hardbody in the fleet, I feel like I'm going to end up mashing that shell up real bad. I've already borked it hard enough to eject the body twice. I need to learn to adjust my umm... level of aggression.
@@CrawlerCanyon there is definitely a learning curve to the leaf springs. With my blazer being heavy I believe it helped on the leaf springs it was just a hiking trail truck. I'm sure you'll get the hang of it. It just takes some driving and adjusting tactics for that rig. I enjoy the content your putting out and your course is my dream yard lol
It’s not the truck it’s your cement setup it’s made into slippery wall everywhere I would try using rocks maybe re-cement it with rocks on top so your able to crawl and climb good luck
Maybe check out some other videos. Not only is it not all cement, a lot of it isn't cement at all. There's a whole lot of rocks, too. The truck is sitting on rock in the thumbnail.
I'll accompany this with the fact that if a rig can be tuned to perform well on lower-grip surfaces it will absolutely excel on high-grip surfaces. The same cannot be said of the opposite.
What's the weight dist on that thing?
I didn’t go through the whole balancing ritual, but at it sits right now, it’s 2738g, 1510g front and 1228g rear, for a F/R distribution of 55/45. ABS doesn’t mess around- the body, even without the roll bar, is 440g.
Man I love your channel bro but there's nobody in the universe to tell you anything honestly it's only the blood of Jesus that there is no such thing as anything else they can reinforce her guy or anything like that it's only the blood of the Lamb of God Almighty Jesus Christ
Tamiya TS-58
You may have steered me down a different path with that suggestion.
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