Hi Eric the car guy I just wanted to let you know you that you helped me a lot while I was in jail , I had access to a learning tablet that had a whole bunch of educational videos of different types of jobs one them was yours , had all kinds of videos of how to fix different things
I've got a 96 2 door with a 5 speed and 2 wheel drive. It may not be able to crawl over rocks but it's driven over something hardly any other vehicles have... over half a million miles of highway. It gets around 20 MPG and after all those miles and over 16 years I STILL love driving the thing!
I'm a old-school mechanic it's a very simple fix for that noise before disassembled the cylinder head you must #1 drained 2 quarts of oil then add 1 gallon of diesel let it run for an half hour then drain all the oil with the diesel #2 remove the cylinder head replace all lifters and lifter rods #3 install everything back put Ina cheap oil 🛢 filter put 5w30 oil 1 can of mineral oil Let it run for 1 hour drain the oil get a good oil filter good oil and the ending will be very satisfying I personally have rebuild plenty of these 4.0 they are one of must strongest engines out there 😀 mark my words
honestly , as an apprentice, I find myself often referring to your videos for a second opinion on fixes, and things that go wrong with my own vehicles, often you've been more informative and accessible than even the journeymen i work under. Being a young tech is a rough start .. not an easy world to work in. having someone who knows what they are talking about to reference makes a huge difference. so thanks for that man.
You're still great at what you do, regardless of what everyone says. Every video I've watched has helped me extremely with my issues. Thanks for taking the time to do what you do!
please i hope no one cancels injectors individually by simply unplugging them!! Chrysler uses positive side switching. for those who do not know what that means; if you simply unplug and injector while the jeep is on there will be what is called a power surge in that electrical system which has a very HIGH potential to burn out your computer. the only safe way to unplug these injectors is to turn off the vehicle and wait a few minuets. then unplug one injector, and start the vehicle again to proceed with the test. you must turn off the car completely each time you want to unplug, or plug in an injector.
Had the same exact noise this past weekend after, and only after, changing out a cracked cylinder head and 2000 Cherokee. I was helping friends do the work to save them some money. They elected to use the old spark plugs which were well used & AMA (against my advice). The noise was a "knock" like a rod rather than a "click"like sticking lifters I'd heard Before. Using a stethoscope I mostly convinced myself the noise was high and near cyl #1 or #2 but the tone of the noise, the location and the absence of the noise before pulling the old head didn't add up. I was stymied. I suggested some Marvel Mystery Oil and a trip to a professional mechanic. My friend, a novice mechanic, decided to go ahead and change the spark plugs when he got home. The noise stopped! Don't know if it was a bad plug or a bad connection to the coil bar which caused a firing problem which caused the noise. Can't explain it because I am not experienced/smart enough; but, the noise went away.
I studied auto mechanics while into prison on Sweden for 6 years. Your videos were and are inspiring. Thank you. This why my English may be terrible, I’m sorry! Been work hard and studying for license and shop! With that said to you, thanks you!
I have come across a few of the later Jeep 4.0's that had the same noise. In all of these cases, I found that the cylinder head cracked, which caused coolant to flow into the oil. And as you know, it doesn't take long before bearings and anything else lubricated by oil to get destroyed or wiped by coolant contamination.
low end knocks like that are usually a main or rod bearing, I had a similar problem with the neighbors 99' Ford F150, ended up pulling the engine and replacing the main and rod bearings.....its just as you pointed out Eric, you can only do as much as your friend or as in my case your neighbor will let you and how much they want to spend......
owning a jeep with a 4.0 myself, i have done some research. those 4.0's generally wear out right around 200000 miles. mainly its lifter problems, but it is usually followed by a lower engine knock pretty quickly.
2 of 2 From what I'm told, the head cracks and warps ever so slightly , and it puts stress on the lifters. We since then replaced our engine, $2500 later, and our jeep is back on the road. The engine had 86,000 miles on it, and the jeep has 192,000 on it. The reason why I'm saying a stuck lifter is because they wouldn't move at all afterwards. But after it cooled down, and was towed to the shop it sorta ran again.
There's not enough zinc and phosphorous additives in modern engine oils to properly lubricate flat tappet engines (of which the 4.0L inline 6 Jeep engine is). The engine ticking noise is a worn out cam lobe hitting the bottom of the lifter because of excessive clearance. If the proper additives were in the oil since the engine was new ( and at every oil change, of course), there would be less likelihood of worn out cam lobes, thus ticking. I figured that as soon as the customer received his Jeep back from Eric, and a short time later the engine seized, the lifter jammed the cam and stopped the cam shaft from spinning.
There are a few options to this problem. New or rebuilt engine swap ( which is expensive), or, if you have the time and money, new camshaft, timing chain, lifters, rocker arms and valves. And always use Shell Rotella 15W 40. It has plenty of the zinc/phosphorous additives needed for these type of engines.
John Doe In my opinion, most modern oils do still have zddp in them. Enough to satisfy a stock engine (Eric posted his video at valvoline, this is a great addendum to my opinion). The 4.0 doesn't have a high lift or duration camshaft as it is, and it doesn't rev that high. I don't think, especially at those miles, that would have caused it. Also, if you have good oil pressure, running thicker oil, such as a 15w40, may actually hurt the engine in the long run, considering your clearances have to be tight to still achieve good oil pressure. Trying to push thicker than spec oil through those still tiny gaps could strain the pump, among other things. Not trying to argue with you at all, just stating my opinion/what I believe.
Two Pistons Skirts is the Answer from my personal experience. When the 4.0 over heats its common for the two front pistons to warp as their skirts break apart. My WJ when it first over heated i pulled over waited my WJ said it was normal temperature again. couple miles later as i was driving it started to over heat again then i started to hear a knock noise appear as i pulled over i lost power waited an hour turned it back on it starts and runs but knocks so i towed it home. Took my Valve cover off nothing, my Engine's Head nothing so, i checked my pistons and only the first two were damaged. Replace the two and there is no longer a knocking.
thanks dude, all your time and effort showing good info for amatuer (shadetree) mechanics like myself is appreciated, ignore the idiots that spend more time being critical than posting anything useful.
Oh, and when I replaced the engine in my 1980 Pinto, I did pull the oil pan off the old one, and sure enough, there was 3 pieces of the #2 piston in the pan, broke off at the oil ring. Strange thing was one of the cracks was very shiny, indicating that it had been cracked for a very long time. The rest of the pieces had very sharp crystallized edges showing a rapid progression once it decided it's time was up. The block was too deeply scored, so got a used engine from a mustang.
Well it did, but a SPOA lift with wheel spacers and 33s fixed that quite easily, and the sidekicks (my toy of choice) fixed it because the top was narrower than the bottom unlike the Sammy. I live in the south and I see rust-free ones on Craigslist all the time. But they are pretty expensive. But think of what it's used for. It's a miracle they lasted this long when they're mudbogging and plowing snow and fording rivers all the time. My 89 Sidekicks got 34,400 original miles.
Yes you can hear the rod knock clearly on the video. And it engine later seized up confirmed the case. I just hope the Eric can get the Jeep pulled back in again so the can show the views how a sprung bearings in a 4 litre looks like.
@EricTheCarGuy You know what man.. there will always be haters so just push them a side. Really your the one that is working on the Jeep and you know the owner real well and you said that you have done several things to the jeep and you know the car better then we do. So anyway keep doing what you do. Thank you for all the free videos they have helped me and several other people so me and other people thank you! :)
1 of 2 One thing I have found out is that these jeeps have chronic intermittent overheating issues due to the electric radiator fan connectors. I fixed that in ours, and it hasn't Overheated again. But about 4 weeks later, the engine let go. The rapping got louder, and changed noises, then died completely. The damage was already done. The cause after taking apart the top end was the head cracked between cylinders 2 and 3.
would have been a great candidate for scannerdanner. He would have set some piezos on the engine, captured data and graphed it to find out not only the noise location via a series of captured db levels but also tell you what other events were occuring at the exact timeline. ie .. the piston travel positions and engine timing events. damn
Hey Eric, let me tell you something that happened to me. So I was watching your videos and my grandfather walked in and asked "Are you learning about cars?" Me: "yea I'm on RUclips" Grandfather: "oh, and how much you pay to watch this?" Yep, Thanks so much Eric to make me and so many more people repair their cars without paying anyone and having the joy of it too.
Had this very same thing happen a few months ago. Jeep engine quiet and running good to Jeep engine knocking and clattering. A BIG mystery for quite some time. THEN over breakfast one morning the owners son mentioned that he knew the Jeep was Toast! and long before it started making noise. Said even he had tried to save it. Said he noticed a DROP of oil in the school parking lot. Proudly stated he had picked up a can of stop leak and poured it into the engine. What kind of stop leak? Slime
Eric, lo que aprendo con tus vídeos es enorme y nunca dudaría de tus diagnósticos así que no le des importancia a los sabios que comentan sin saber la historia de ese auto. Greetings from Argentina, you're the best by far. I'll dare you to use the google translator! solo quería que sepas que veo todos tus vídeos a 10000km de distancia!
Eric there is one more thing about ticking noise if it sounds like it is the lifters but to soft you should do a drop off the oil pan and hand crank the engine so you can see with a flash light up to the piston if the piston is worn on it's side which is a common issue when you run this jeep thru the mud and get dirt into the engine block. It works like sand paper and so the ticking comes from the piston been worn and each top dead center when you go from push to pull it tick's the cylinder from one side to the other side. Just as a FYI for the future for you and others to know. Over time it creates a blow by to the point of engine blow up or total power loss. If in the early early stage you find out it's only the cylinder which need's to be replaced. Later you need to machine the block for bigger pistons with a machine shop.
I doubt it needed just a new bearing. There was probably a significant amount fo wear on the bottom end. I dont see any of your youtube videos of you repairing or diagnosing anything,
All Jeep 6 in Line 4.0 L Engine Noise is coming from the Pistons Zuiger when the zuiger is moving form left to right . I Recommend to Replace all Piston and Zuiger kit in all Cylinder. The Noise starts in the Cyl 5 and 6. The noise is coming from the bottom of the part in the back. I hope this will resolve your problem.
My 4 L has a broken piston skirt and It got worse over 3 years and now I have to fix it , however I only want to fix the one as the rest are still Ok, The Jeep is almost done so what say all you Jeep owners? Should I just change the one?
If the hydraulic lifter was bad it could cause a loss of power by not alowing the valve to fully open, and will cause top end noise. Bottom end damage usually makes a knocking, or thumping noise instead of a ticking noise in the top end, in my experience as a diesel engine tech. You have to take it apart,clean and inspect to know for sure, and thats all up to the customer, and how much money they want to spend .
my hats off to ya eric. you have to be a smart dude to do what you do. after reading through my quest's service manual and dealing with the O2 sensor problems and such, it's VERY complicated. There is a lot going on inside a car, and they are very impressive in design and function. you're very good at what you do
I think it's broken piston skirt. I found these videos by accident and the sound is very similar. Search videos from youtube with 'Jeep Engine Noise 2.5 broken piston skirt #3, tick, knock ' and 'Jeep Grand Cherokee broken piston skirt noise'
Probably piston skirt.. the 4.0 was redesigned in 99.. they changed the piston castings, and they were bad. also changed the head casting at some point they tend to develop a small crack in the coolant space, and bleed coolant into the oil under the valve cover between cly 5-6. The 4.0 was a bullet proof engine, but 99-04 has the potential for serious issues
Suzuki, the Samuri? Does Suzuki have the HP for serious offroad? My 5.2 runs like a watch, no lifter noise, oil consumption, etc. Whatever the brand they all need attention eventually but yes some have more problems than others --I have NO regrets buying my ZJ, i have it the way i want it now, amazing in snow and that's why i own it, my Hyundai gets great gas mileage so the Jeep is mainly a winter machine
1998 XJ 251000 miles, running strong (knock on wood). Had a car make this noise, drove fine before the noise, parked at home, hour or so later went to leave and that noise happened, then engine blows... piston skirt pieces in the oil pan, top of piston and the header made contact and shredded to s@#t. happened in two of the four pistons. kept the "best" piston too. put used engine in, runs great! sold it to my sisters family makes long trips to this day!
your totaly right about it not being a timing chain every loose or slipped timing chain I have seen has had a cam code in the pcm. I work at a chevy dealer and the timing chains on the 3.6 engines like in the camaro and traverse and acadia are known for stretching and what tells me they are bad is a cam sensor code .
Oh damn, I have the exact same problem right now! Did you ever figure it out?! It was apparently real low on oil and I floored the gas while it was cold to heat the car up faster (stupid I know, still feel like an idiot) and this noise started at the higher RPMs Filled it up with oil and let it warm up for a while. Noise is still there (sounding like it's from the top end) but like you said only when I rev it. Did you have any luck? I would really appreciate the help. This car is my only source of transport.
My 2011 jeep compass 2.2crd sounds exactly like the one in this video and it happened after it overheated due to heater core failure and I broke down on the motorway. This 4x4 has caused more problems than I’ve ever experienced before and I am sick of it and I am ready to sell it for a huge loss and I think I am going to go back to the old Suzuki which are a lot more reliable. I have had a no heat issue for 3 years now where it started intermittently then for the past 2 years I’ve spent a ridiculous amount of money on trying to it sorted and now I have no more money to pour in to it. I have spent thousands on it with everything I’ve been told is the problem, then after it costing it turns out to be something else and so on. I have been to a few so-called reputable places and I have had all the tests done and even had it doubled checked at Jeep, and it were showing up as heater core problem so I purchased a new heater core whilst at Jeep but couldn’t afford the £1800 for them to replace it and they told me it will be a lot cheaper to have it done elsewhere. Unfortunately it is a big job with no easy way around it and I simply cannot afford the quotes I have had so I may try another flush then get shut if it doesn’t work out. The bodywork of my Jeep is immaculate and also the interior with full leather seats etc is beyond beaut in my eyes so it would be nice to keep but I just can’t afford to spend anymore money I haven’t got on it anymore,. To replace this heater core all the dash has to come out and it will take at least a full day for any mechanic replace it so no wonder everyone wanted to avoid fixing this issue for me.
It now has 302000 miles, and running strong. Just did the lifters, rings, and lower bearings. Suspension was all done a while ago. ready for another 100,000
Man. I bought a 2002 jeep grand cherokee with the 4.0 in it and it was making that same noise. Girl I bought it from said 3 mechanics looked at it and all said it was Ricker arms went on rockauto and ordered new rocker arms, lifters, pushrods, valves, valve springs, head gaskets and bolts, intake and exhaust manifold gasket, valve cover gasket, new plugs and the coil pack and a new goose neck with thermostat. Did it all, didn't change a damn thing. Dropped the oil pan, had 1 spun bearing. Cha he'd all of those and it runs like a dream now. Just irritates me when others know everything a d they weren't even close. Nothing against you, the 3 mechanics who were calling it a top end problem and it was on the bottom. And I'm convinced someone was stoned when they designed the intake/ exhaust setup.
i got a ford focus lx 2005 with a engine rattle when it idles, i put my hand on the cam cover thing and it stops, how do i titan it or fix it? thanks Eric, Stay Dirty
Eric, one thing I found out about Chrysler products is something I have never seen with any other make. If you re-use the torque converter bolts you are supposed to grind a thread out of each bolt. They don't give enough depth of thread in the holes and a used bolt will bottom out. They aren't TTY bolts and can be reused but must be ground. I also have in my shop right now a 4.0 that has a shot to hell timing chain with tons of play but no driveability issues, another thing I have never seen in anything but this particular engine. The timing chain failed due to heavy sludge, which was loads of fun to remove. Love your vids and what you do, but I do realize that maybe you aren't as deep into the 4.0 just like I am not in deep with knowledge on import cars. Thought I would throw some info your way. Obviously without the engine available for an autopsy we will never have conclusive proof what did fail.
Its weird how you say that...I've worked at chrysler 8 years now and have never seen a "bad" 4.0L come in with head issues. I have only seen one 4.7 here that needed a motor due to the owner not doing his oil changes.
HELP. I have the same thing going on now. But i have a check engine light on. Ran the codes and it says i have the numbers 2 & 4 cylinders miss firing. Could it be bad plugs?
in my experience , most chrysler products aren't very good at detecting mechanical issues through sensors due to wear. In essence they are however excellent at compensating for this wear. They will show performance loss , yet not with accompanying sluggishness. However , timing chain noise would never be this loud , and if the engine was out on mechanical timing , you would be able to detect this via the catalytic converter. When Chrysler timing chains wear , the computer compensates , this causes the engine to run rich , thus the catalytic converter will cause the sulfur smell , and overheat. That being said , all newer Chrysler products after 1989 usually were equipped with a timing chain tensioner which could have caused this noise. Without tearing it down , it is impossible to note that this could have been the problem. Although I would have liked to have seen this being torn down before heading to the scrap yard , but i do appriciate the video , i enjoy doing refresher vids before delving into a project , it helps remind me of any short cuts that i may have forgotten. Great video , thanks.
hayneshvac2 the 4.0 doesn’t have a tensioner. They only put them in the 2.5. But yeah, would really have liked to see a tear down to see what the issue was. RIP TJ
My question is can I install a six cylinder engine in a mahindra bolero Jeep? I am very much keen to install British leyland 0.370 six cylinder naturally aspirated diesel. Please reply me quickly I am anxiously waiting for your reply
I wish you could have examined the engine, a friends relative had about a 2000 GC 6 cyl. and it sounded like that, you will never guess what it was??? One piston disintegrated and the rod was bouncing off the cylinder wall, i mean TOTALLY gone, i helped pull the head off, i never saw something like that-- my buddy should have taken a compression test, it was running on FIVE cylinders-- he thought initially it was lifters but the sound was too deep
LOL people say Jeep 4.0 straight line engine is very reliable engine. Reliable on what making noise lifter going bad, crack head gasket and engine rebuilt at 100k,miles? The most reliable engine I had seen on American cars is the Ford Explorer , Ranger 4.0 SOHC this engine will go 200k miles or more with out a rebuilt or engine noise.... Ford make great engine and vehicles.
My AMC Comanche made that exact noise at 260,000 miles. It also was running fine one day and then sounded like that the next. The engine threw a rod less than 50 miles later before I could have it looked at.
If the noise was coming from cracked or loose flex plate the noise would change ALOT by putting the trans in drive or reverse while the engine was at idle speed.
I know that the engine was toast, but it was a great how to for the valve cover removal. And the paper clip idea is a great idea, I would of never thought of that. Overall, great DIY on a bad engine!
Great summation and as a retired Tech I agree , you cannot just go ahead and repair as the cost issue can be the key, and viability of repair, your call proved correct. It would be real nice to find out what did happen internally !
I agree with your train of thought. With that many miles if it's not the top end = rebuild the motor, replace with salvaged engine, or junk the vehicle. I'm thinking it's a spun a rod bearing. My GM 4.3 Vortec spun a rod bearing and sounded similar. I could have sworn it was pushrod noise at first. At TDC the excess play makes the slapping noise. The connecting rod acts like rudimentary tuning fork which makes it sound like top section of the engine. It louder below but that's not where people put their heads. A stethoscope helps as you mentioned. An unsolved mystery unfortunately.
Rick James tell me this.. my jeep rattles like a sob at idle an long periods of go.. Im very faithful to chevron 93 octane in every thing i drive. An still it rattles . clack clack clack. by the way it runs an performs like it should.. but come to a stop or have to put it in park an turn the ac off it goes down to like 6 rpms an would probly do it till it kills.. but it would take a while to do.. 193000 miles.. if it helps i ran it way low on gas then put 2 good octane boost. Now that made way way less loud after. HELP
paul thibodeaux You didn't say the year of the jeep, but I'm betting it's new enough to have an idle air control valve. This small electronically operated valve is attached to the throttle body. It sets the idle air volume (idle speed) depending on the engine load. For exampe, when you turn on the AC, it compensates for the increased load (drag of turning the AC compressor) by allowing more air in the engine at idle so the car doesn't die. Sometimes these gunk up or fail causing unsustainable load to idle relationships. Remove it, clean it, clean the port it sit in (make sure carbon isn't blocking the opening). It may just need replacing. Also clean around the main butterfly valve of the throttle body itself while your there. That would be my first thought. Other considerations: fault crankshaft position sensor...throws off timing or stalls the engine. This could be intermittent. Stretched timing belt or chain..throws off timing. Worse case it could be low compression. A worn out engine with excessive blow by, especially if it's a 4-cylinder, will be most noticeable at idle.
Eric I have a 2000 jeep with the exact same motor and it made the exact same noise. everyone that looked at it thought it was in the top of the motor we even used a stethoscope to try to pinpoint the problem, so I drove it home and it lost all power. turns out on mine it was a crank shaft bearing, it destroyed the piston wall so i had to replace the motor.
The GM HFV6 engines also throw a code if the timing chain stretches , there is a software update which can be a temporary fix for them , but i think it's better to replace them , and there's more than one as they are a multi cam V6 , so it is not cheap , but some dealers will meet part of the cost , m y own dealer does them for $1500 NZ Ruble's
these motors are one of chryslers best, most reliable motors ever made. we have a customer with a 4.0L cherokee which he bought brand new, he is at 730,000KM's on the original motor and its still going strong. Judging by how dirty that oil looked and the fact it was at the minimum line on the dip stick i dont think this customer kept up with regular oil changes which probably played a part in the engine failing.
i wonder if its just a Straight six cylinder thing i have a Trail Blazer that sounds not as nosy but there telling me its a lifter issue so i got the blazer in the shop where i got the car and there going to replace all the lifters
I had a similar noise coming from an old volvo. I was about 2km from my destination and thought I cloud make it there. A minute later the noise got louder and I started looking for somewhere to pull over. Before I can find a good place to stop, there is a loud bang, and the engine died completely. As I opened the bonnet, one of the connecting rods was sticking out of a hole in the side of the engine... The next time I hear a sound like that, I'll stop immediatly.
This case also highlights the awkward position that a mechanic can find himself in, having worked on the vehicle only to see it die a week later. A lot of mechanics get blamed for stuff that is not their fault, mostly by people who don't understand the trade. The best way around that is education, but with the suspicion that many people have, lingering questions remain.
I had a 98 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0l with over 300k kilometers, all 6 cylinders had compression within specs, and ran like a champ. I had to scrap it for parts because the rear diff crapped out on me. The 4 liter is an extremely reliable engine. Change the oil and don't beat the shit out of it, and any car will last a long time.
I tell you what I have same thing I just bought it yesterday and there was a little bit of a ticking but not like a little lifter noise little bitty one and now it sounds like just like the one you had in your video
I never had seen a 4.0 with a broken flexplate yet.1999 to 2004 4.0s had bad cylinder heads,casted wrong.#6 piston is well known for breaking first in the 4.0s.The 4.7s,drop valve seats and is Chrysler's fault.The valve seats were installed loosely and Jasper fixed this problem.
I had this happen to my toyota 22r truck last week. It started off as a sticky valve which explained the reason why it went away and then came back as described in this video. The sticking valve was eventually hit by a piston and kept the valve stuck open. The car wouldn't start after. No compression so it just turned and turned. The tapping could be the piston hitting the valve.
Is there a betting pool for this, yet? :-D I'm willing to bet that the initial problem was selective oil starvation. It doesn't happen often, but I've seen engines in which one specific rod bearing doesn't get oil, causing the bearing to fail. Further, that rod now isn't squirting oil on the cylinder wall, which kills the piston/rings, and causes a cascade failure putting more tension on the rod. The sound in the vid seemed like a single, large item; not a valvetrain sort of noise. :-]
ERIC I have this same type of vehicle. I drive city type driving all the time. I change engine oil little more often then it recommends and now have 137589 miles on it and it runs great. You being a pro can and should tell is a vehicle is proper maintained. Oil to me is cheap insurance for engine life. If there is a problem get it fixed right away or it could lead to serious damage.
Is it a 2000 or 2001? Just keep your mind open to a cracked head. 2000/01 4.0's had the head casting number 0331, during those years, the cylinder heads could crack in between #3 and 4 cylinder, visible if you would take the oil filler cap off. Coolant could leak into the oil. Telltale signs of this are: unexplained coolant loss, and/or oil looking like milky coffee. Keep and eye out for that, and take care it as you do, you'll probably get many more miles out of it.
Hi Eric the car guy I just wanted to let you know you that you helped me a lot while I was in jail , I had access to a learning tablet that had a whole bunch of educational videos of different types of jobs one them was yours , had all kinds of videos of how to fix different things
I've got a 96 2 door with a 5 speed and 2 wheel drive. It may not be able to crawl over rocks but it's driven over something hardly any other vehicles have... over half a million miles of highway. It gets around 20 MPG and after all those miles and over 16 years I STILL love driving the thing!
I'm a old-school mechanic it's a very simple fix for that noise before disassembled the cylinder head you must #1 drained 2 quarts of oil then add 1 gallon of diesel let it run for an half hour then drain all the oil with the diesel #2 remove the cylinder head replace all lifters and lifter rods #3 install everything back put Ina cheap oil 🛢 filter put 5w30 oil 1 can of mineral oil
Let it run for 1 hour drain the oil get a good oil filter good oil and the ending will be very satisfying I personally have rebuild plenty of these 4.0 they are one of must strongest engines out there 😀 mark my words
So what was it? Valve? Lifter? Bearing?
honestly , as an apprentice, I find myself often referring to your videos for a second opinion on fixes, and things that go wrong with my own vehicles, often you've been more informative and accessible than even the journeymen i work under. Being a young tech is a rough start .. not an easy world to work in. having someone who knows what they are talking about to reference makes a huge difference. so thanks for that man.
Hi in uuikkjbvb
You're still great at what you do, regardless of what everyone says. Every video I've watched has helped me extremely with my issues. Thanks for taking the time to do what you do!
please i hope no one cancels injectors individually by simply unplugging them!! Chrysler uses positive side switching. for those who do not know what that means; if you simply unplug and injector while the jeep is on there will be what is called a power surge in that electrical system which has a very HIGH potential to burn out your computer. the only safe way to unplug these injectors is to turn off the vehicle and wait a few minuets. then unplug one injector, and start the vehicle again to proceed with the test. you must turn off the car completely each time you want to unplug, or plug in an injector.
Had the same exact noise this past weekend after, and only after, changing out a cracked cylinder head and 2000 Cherokee. I was helping friends do the work to save them some money. They elected to use the old spark plugs which were well used & AMA (against my advice). The noise was a "knock" like a rod rather than a "click"like sticking lifters I'd heard Before. Using a stethoscope I mostly convinced myself the noise was high and near cyl #1 or #2 but the tone of the noise, the location and the absence of the noise before pulling the old head didn't add up. I was stymied. I suggested some Marvel Mystery Oil and a trip to a professional mechanic. My friend, a novice mechanic, decided to go ahead and change the spark plugs when he got home. The noise stopped! Don't know if it was a bad plug or a bad connection to the coil bar which caused a firing problem which caused the noise. Can't explain it because I am not experienced/smart enough; but, the noise went away.
I studied auto mechanics while into prison on Sweden for 6 years. Your videos were and are inspiring. Thank you. This why my English may be terrible, I’m sorry! Been work hard and studying for license and shop! With that said to you, thanks you!
I have come across a few of the later Jeep 4.0's that had the same noise. In all of these cases, I found that the cylinder head cracked, which caused coolant to flow into the oil. And as you know, it doesn't take long before bearings and anything else lubricated by oil to get destroyed or wiped by coolant contamination.
low end knocks like that are usually a main or rod bearing, I had a similar problem with the neighbors 99' Ford F150, ended up pulling the engine and replacing the main and rod bearings.....its just as you pointed out Eric, you can only do as much as your friend or as in my case your neighbor will let you and how much they want to spend......
Wow Eric. You hit all parameters answering the comments on this one. Good job.
Balancer hitting the timing cover?
sounds like the jeep i just changed a balancer on
owning a jeep with a 4.0 myself, i have done some research. those 4.0's generally wear out right around 200000 miles. mainly its lifter problems, but it is usually followed by a lower engine knock pretty quickly.
2 of 2 From what I'm told, the head cracks and warps ever so slightly , and it puts stress on the lifters. We since then replaced our engine, $2500 later, and our jeep is back on the road. The engine had 86,000 miles on it, and the jeep has 192,000 on it. The reason why I'm saying a stuck lifter is because they wouldn't move at all afterwards. But after it cooled down, and was towed to the shop it sorta ran again.
Keep up the good work eric, I'm a 20 year old DIY mechanic who just loves to learn, and you are by far my #1 source for info. great job as always!
There's not enough zinc and phosphorous additives in modern engine oils to properly lubricate flat tappet engines (of which the 4.0L inline 6 Jeep engine is). The engine ticking noise is a worn out cam lobe hitting the bottom of the lifter because of excessive clearance. If the proper additives were in the oil since the engine was new ( and at every oil change, of course), there would be less likelihood of worn out cam lobes, thus ticking. I figured that as soon as the customer received his Jeep back from Eric, and a short time later the engine seized, the lifter jammed the cam and stopped the cam shaft from spinning.
There are a few options to this problem. New or rebuilt engine swap ( which is expensive), or, if you have the time and money, new camshaft, timing chain, lifters, rocker arms and valves. And always use Shell Rotella 15W 40. It has plenty of the zinc/phosphorous additives needed for these type of engines.
John Doe In my opinion, most modern oils do still have zddp in them. Enough to satisfy a stock engine (Eric posted his video at valvoline, this is a great addendum to my opinion). The 4.0 doesn't have a high lift or duration camshaft as it is, and it doesn't rev that high. I don't think, especially at those miles, that would have caused it. Also, if you have good oil pressure, running thicker oil, such as a 15w40, may actually hurt the engine in the long run, considering your clearances have to be tight to still achieve good oil pressure. Trying to push thicker than spec oil through those still tiny gaps could strain the pump, among other things. Not trying to argue with you at all, just stating my opinion/what I believe.
What the hell is up with some of you guys?? Give the man a break.
Thumbs up Eric.
Two Pistons Skirts is the Answer from my personal experience.
When the 4.0 over heats its common for the two front pistons to warp as their skirts break apart. My WJ when it first over heated i pulled over waited my WJ said it was normal temperature again. couple miles later as i was driving it started to over heat again then i started to hear a knock noise appear as i pulled over i lost power waited an hour turned it back on it starts and runs but knocks so i towed it home. Took my Valve cover off nothing, my Engine's Head nothing so, i checked my pistons and only the first two were damaged. Replace the two and there is no longer a knocking.
Water pump
thanks dude, all your time and effort showing good info for amatuer (shadetree) mechanics like myself is appreciated, ignore the idiots that spend more time being critical than posting anything useful.
Oh, and when I replaced the engine in my 1980 Pinto, I did pull the oil pan off the old one, and sure enough, there was 3 pieces of the #2 piston in the pan, broke off at the oil ring. Strange thing was one of the cracks was very shiny, indicating that it had been cracked for a very long time. The rest of the pieces had very sharp crystallized edges showing a rapid progression once it decided it's time was up. The block was too deeply scored, so got a used engine from a mustang.
Well it did, but a SPOA lift with wheel spacers and 33s fixed that quite easily, and the sidekicks (my toy of choice) fixed it because the top was narrower than the bottom unlike the Sammy. I live in the south and I see rust-free ones on Craigslist all the time. But they are pretty expensive. But think of what it's used for. It's a miracle they lasted this long when they're mudbogging and plowing snow and fording rivers all the time. My 89 Sidekicks got 34,400 original miles.
Yes you can hear the rod knock clearly on the video. And it engine later seized up confirmed the case.
I just hope the Eric can get the Jeep pulled back in again so the can show the views how a sprung bearings in a 4 litre looks like.
I have a similar noise but more from the oil pan area? Any thoughts?
@EricTheCarGuy You know what man.. there will always be haters so just push them a side. Really your the one that is working on the Jeep and you know the owner real well and you said that you have done several things to the jeep and you know the car better then we do. So anyway keep doing what you do. Thank you for all the free videos they have helped me and several other people so me and other people thank you! :)
1 of 2 One thing I have found out is that these jeeps have chronic intermittent overheating issues due to the electric radiator fan connectors. I fixed that in ours, and it hasn't Overheated again. But about 4 weeks later, the engine let go. The rapping got louder, and changed noises, then died completely. The damage was already done. The cause after taking apart the top end was the head cracked between cylinders 2 and 3.
would have been a great candidate for scannerdanner.
He would have set some piezos on the engine, captured data and graphed it to find out not only the noise location via a series of captured db levels but also tell you what other events were occuring at the exact timeline. ie .. the piston travel positions and engine timing events. damn
Hey Eric, let me tell you something that happened to me. So I was watching your videos and my grandfather walked in and asked "Are you learning about cars?" Me: "yea I'm on RUclips" Grandfather: "oh, and how much you pay to watch this?"
Yep, Thanks so much Eric to make me and so many more people repair their cars without paying anyone and having the joy of it too.
It's a shame u have to explain yourself. I get this sometimes. A bit like "since you serviced my car my air freshener doesn't smell nice anymore"
Had this very same thing happen a few months ago. Jeep engine quiet and running good to Jeep engine knocking and clattering. A BIG mystery for quite some time. THEN over breakfast one morning the owners son mentioned that he knew the Jeep was Toast! and long before it started making noise. Said even he had tried to save it. Said he noticed a DROP of oil in the school parking lot. Proudly stated he had picked up a can of stop leak and poured it into the engine. What kind of stop leak? Slime
Is this a non priority main oil system? If so wouldn't the engine have good oil pressure up top, but none/restricted oil flow on the bottom?
Eric, lo que aprendo con tus vídeos es enorme y nunca dudaría de tus diagnósticos así que no le des importancia a los sabios que comentan sin saber la historia de ese auto. Greetings from Argentina, you're the best by far. I'll dare you to use the google translator! solo quería que sepas que veo todos tus vídeos a 10000km de distancia!
Eric there is one more thing about ticking noise if it sounds like it is the lifters but to soft you should do a drop off the oil pan and hand crank the engine so you can see with a flash light up to the piston if the piston is worn on it's side which is a common issue when you run this jeep thru the mud and get dirt into the engine block. It works like sand paper and so the ticking comes from the piston been worn and each top dead center when you go from push to pull it tick's the cylinder from one side to the other side. Just as a FYI for the future for you and others to know. Over time it creates a blow by to the point of engine blow up or total power loss. If in the early early stage you find out it's only the cylinder which need's to be replaced. Later you need to machine the block for bigger pistons with a machine shop.
I doubt it needed just a new bearing. There was probably a significant amount fo wear on the bottom end.
I dont see any of your youtube videos of you repairing or diagnosing anything,
All Jeep 6 in Line 4.0 L Engine Noise is coming from the Pistons Zuiger when the zuiger is moving form left to right . I Recommend to Replace all Piston and Zuiger kit in all Cylinder. The Noise starts in the Cyl 5 and 6. The noise is coming from the bottom of the part in the back. I hope this will resolve your problem.
Any chance of a cracked flywheel? I've heard a similar noise on a 5.3 Chevrolet that was a cracked flywheel.
22mpg huh? is that idling or when not running?
My 4 L has a broken piston skirt and It got worse over 3 years and now I have to fix it , however I only want to fix the one as the rest are still Ok, The Jeep is almost done so what say all you Jeep owners? Should I just change the one?
If the hydraulic lifter was bad it could cause a loss of power by not alowing the valve to fully open, and will cause top end noise. Bottom end damage usually makes a knocking, or thumping noise instead of a ticking noise in the top end, in my experience as a diesel engine tech. You have to take it apart,clean and inspect to know for sure, and thats all up to the customer, and how much money they want to spend .
Wow what is it with Jeeps and noisy something or other. Just noticed the hundreds of other Jeep with Noise videos in the related video section
It definitely was a bad flux capacitor!!
@james crowe i think maybe you need to get a sens of humor my guy
@james crowe how many 12 year olds know what a flix capacitor is my dude? Maybe your just to old to have humor idk
At least you tried
my hats off to ya eric. you have to be a smart dude to do what you do. after reading through my quest's service manual and dealing with the O2 sensor problems and such, it's VERY complicated. There is a lot going on inside a car, and they are very impressive in design and function. you're very good at what you do
Is that a common problem with that engine 4.0ltr? Because I just came across a Wrangler YJ with the same engine for sale and was planning to buy it.
Hello from a mechanic in Denmark... I think it sounds like the connetion rod bearings at the crankshaft... Great videos.. Keep up the good work... :D
I think it's broken piston skirt. I found these videos by accident and the sound is very similar. Search videos from youtube with 'Jeep Engine Noise 2.5 broken piston skirt #3, tick, knock ' and 'Jeep Grand Cherokee broken piston skirt noise'
Probably piston skirt.. the 4.0 was redesigned in 99.. they changed the piston castings, and they were bad. also changed the head casting at some point they tend to develop a small crack in the coolant space, and bleed coolant into the oil under the valve cover between cly 5-6. The 4.0 was a bullet proof engine, but 99-04 has the potential for serious issues
Please help me with this problem electric Vibration Cherokee Patriot 2008
Suzuki, the Samuri? Does Suzuki have the HP for serious offroad?
My 5.2 runs like a watch, no lifter noise, oil consumption, etc.
Whatever the brand they all need attention eventually but yes some have more problems than others --I have NO regrets buying my ZJ, i have it the way i want it now, amazing in snow and that's why i own it, my Hyundai gets great gas mileage so the Jeep is mainly a winter machine
1998 XJ 251000 miles, running strong (knock on wood). Had a car make this noise, drove fine before the noise, parked at home, hour or so later went to leave and that noise happened, then engine blows... piston skirt pieces in the oil pan, top of piston and the header made contact and shredded to s@#t. happened in two of the four pistons. kept the "best" piston too. put used engine in, runs great! sold it to my sisters family makes long trips to this day!
your totaly right about it not being a timing chain every loose or slipped timing chain I have seen has had a cam code in the pcm. I work at a chevy dealer and the timing chains on the 3.6 engines like in the camaro and traverse and acadia are known for stretching and what tells me they are bad is a cam sensor code .
I have a 4.0 and its making some noise coming from the top end. (I think) but you can't hear it at idle and only when you rev it. I'm so lost.
Oh damn, I have the exact same problem right now! Did you ever figure it out?!
It was apparently real low on oil and I floored the gas while it was cold to heat the car up faster (stupid I know, still feel like an idiot) and this noise started at the higher RPMs Filled it up with oil and let it warm up for a while. Noise is still there (sounding like it's from the top end) but like you said only when I rev it.
Did you have any luck? I would really appreciate the help. This car is my only source of transport.
My 2011 jeep compass 2.2crd sounds exactly like the one in this video and it happened after it overheated due to heater core failure and I broke down on the motorway. This 4x4 has caused more problems than I’ve ever experienced before and I am sick of it and I am ready to sell it for a huge loss and I think I am going to go back to the old Suzuki which are a lot more reliable. I have had a no heat issue for 3 years now where it started intermittently then for the past 2 years I’ve spent a ridiculous amount of money on trying to it sorted and now I have no more money to pour in to it. I have spent thousands on it with everything I’ve been told is the problem, then after it costing it turns out to be something else and so on. I have been to a few so-called reputable places and I have had all the tests done and even had it doubled checked at Jeep, and it were showing up as heater core problem so I purchased a new heater core whilst at Jeep but couldn’t afford the £1800 for them to replace it and they told me it will be a lot cheaper to have it done elsewhere. Unfortunately it is a big job with no easy way around it and I simply cannot afford the quotes I have had so I may try another flush then get shut if it doesn’t work out. The bodywork of my Jeep is immaculate and also the interior with full leather seats etc is beyond beaut in my eyes so it would be nice to keep but I just can’t afford to spend anymore money I haven’t got on it anymore,. To replace this heater core all the dash has to come out and it will take at least a full day for any mechanic replace it so no wonder everyone wanted to avoid fixing this issue for me.
It now has 302000 miles, and running strong. Just did the lifters, rings, and lower bearings. Suspension was all done a while ago. ready for another 100,000
Hey Eric it's William from MustangMedic, thanks for the AC video we are deep into it on a 69 Mustang.
The peoples journalist! hahaha What a coincidence seeing you here
Man. I bought a 2002 jeep grand cherokee with the 4.0 in it and it was making that same noise. Girl I bought it from said 3 mechanics looked at it and all said it was Ricker arms went on rockauto and ordered new rocker arms, lifters, pushrods, valves, valve springs, head gaskets and bolts, intake and exhaust manifold gasket, valve cover gasket, new plugs and the coil pack and a new goose neck with thermostat. Did it all, didn't change a damn thing. Dropped the oil pan, had 1 spun bearing. Cha he'd all of those and it runs like a dream now. Just irritates me when others know everything a d they weren't even close. Nothing against you, the 3 mechanics who were calling it a top end problem and it was on the bottom. And I'm convinced someone was stoned when they designed the intake/ exhaust setup.
good re eric.......thanks for posting......hope we find out what happened to the 4l....have a good day sir
I thought it was the carburetor belt...
+Justin P. i was thinking the parking brake pump...
+colj001 No! You amateurs!!!! It has to be the piston return springs in the bottom of the engine!
Wrong! The blinker fluid has run dangerously low and the blinkers are close to seizing!
+Chris Nelson damn I thought I was right
it's the o2 sensor pistons make sure you put grease on them before installing to avoid knocking
i got a ford focus lx 2005 with a engine rattle when it idles, i put my hand on the cam cover thing and it stops, how do i titan it or fix it? thanks Eric, Stay Dirty
Eric, one thing I found out about Chrysler products is something I have never seen with any other make. If you re-use the torque converter bolts you are supposed to grind a thread out of each bolt. They don't give enough depth of thread in the holes and a used bolt will bottom out. They aren't TTY bolts and can be reused but must be ground. I also have in my shop right now a 4.0 that has a shot to hell timing chain with tons of play but no driveability issues, another thing I have never seen in anything but this particular engine. The timing chain failed due to heavy sludge, which was loads of fun to remove.
Love your vids and what you do, but I do realize that maybe you aren't as deep into the 4.0 just like I am not in deep with knowledge on import cars. Thought I would throw some info your way. Obviously without the engine available for an autopsy we will never have conclusive proof what did fail.
how about the OPDA ??????
Its weird how you say that...I've worked at chrysler 8 years now and have never seen a "bad" 4.0L come in with head issues. I have only seen one 4.7 here that needed a motor due to the owner not doing his oil changes.
you have an internal server error on your website.
HELP. I have the same thing going on now. But i have a check engine light on. Ran the codes and it says i have the numbers 2 & 4 cylinders miss firing. Could it be bad plugs?
Wrist pin or broken piston skirt are VERY common and sound like that.
in my experience , most chrysler products aren't very good at detecting mechanical issues through sensors due to wear. In essence they are however excellent at compensating for this wear. They will show performance loss , yet not with accompanying sluggishness. However , timing chain noise would never be this loud , and if the engine was out on mechanical timing , you would be able to detect this via the catalytic converter. When Chrysler timing chains wear , the computer compensates , this causes the engine to run rich , thus the catalytic converter will cause the sulfur smell , and overheat. That being said , all newer Chrysler products after 1989 usually were equipped with a timing chain tensioner which could have caused this noise. Without tearing it down , it is impossible to note that this could have been the problem. Although I would have liked to have seen this being torn down before heading to the scrap yard , but i do appriciate the video , i enjoy doing refresher vids before delving into a project , it helps remind me of any short cuts that i may have forgotten. Great video , thanks.
hayneshvac2 the 4.0 doesn’t have a tensioner. They only put them in the 2.5. But yeah, would really have liked to see a tear down to see what the issue was. RIP TJ
My question is can I install a six cylinder engine in a mahindra bolero Jeep? I am very much keen to install British leyland 0.370 six cylinder naturally aspirated diesel. Please reply me quickly I am anxiously waiting for your reply
I wish you could have examined the engine, a friends relative had about a 2000 GC 6 cyl. and it sounded like that, you will never guess what it was??? One piston disintegrated and the rod was bouncing off the cylinder wall, i mean TOTALLY gone, i helped pull the head off, i never saw something like that-- my buddy should have taken a compression test, it was running on FIVE cylinders-- he thought initially it was lifters but the sound was too deep
for me it was Driving on the freeway, Engine just totally died out turns out was running with no oil in it. THAT noise started.
How many miles did he have on the engine?
LOL people say Jeep 4.0 straight line engine is very reliable engine. Reliable on what making noise lifter going bad, crack head gasket and engine rebuilt at 100k,miles? The most reliable engine I had seen on American cars is the Ford Explorer , Ranger 4.0 SOHC this engine will go 200k miles or more with out a rebuilt or engine noise.... Ford make great engine and vehicles.
My AMC Comanche made that exact noise at 260,000 miles. It also was running fine one day and then sounded like that the next. The engine threw a rod less than 50 miles later before I could have it looked at.
did it spin a main or rod thats what it sound like
If the noise was coming from cracked or loose flex plate the noise would change ALOT by putting the trans in drive or reverse while the engine was at idle speed.
Change a lot how? Like worse or better in drive or reverse? Mine sounds worse in Park and almost goes away in drive or reverse.
I know that the engine was toast, but it was a great how to for the valve cover removal. And the paper clip idea is a great idea, I would of never thought of that. Overall, great DIY on a bad engine!
Great summation and as a retired Tech I agree , you cannot just go ahead and repair as the cost issue can be the key, and viability of repair, your call proved correct. It would be real nice to find out what did happen internally !
I agree with your train of thought. With that many miles if it's not the top end = rebuild the motor, replace with salvaged engine, or junk the vehicle. I'm thinking it's a spun a rod bearing. My GM 4.3 Vortec spun a rod bearing and sounded similar. I could have sworn it was pushrod noise at first. At TDC the excess play makes the slapping noise. The connecting rod acts like rudimentary tuning fork which makes it sound like top section of the engine. It louder below but that's not where people put their heads. A stethoscope helps as you mentioned. An unsolved mystery unfortunately.
crap...I thought this was new upload.
Rick James tell me this.. my jeep rattles like a sob at idle an long periods of go.. Im very faithful to chevron 93 octane in every thing i drive. An still it rattles . clack clack clack. by the way it runs an performs like it should.. but come to a stop or have to put it in park an turn the ac off it goes down to like 6 rpms an would probly do it till it kills.. but it would take a while to do.. 193000 miles.. if it helps i ran it way low on gas then put 2 good octane boost. Now that made way way less loud after. HELP
paul thibodeaux You didn't say the year of the jeep, but I'm betting it's new enough to have an idle air control valve. This small electronically operated valve is attached to the throttle body. It sets the idle air volume (idle speed) depending on the engine load. For exampe, when you turn on the AC, it compensates for the increased load (drag of turning the AC compressor) by allowing more air in the engine at idle so the car doesn't die. Sometimes these gunk up or fail causing unsustainable load to idle relationships. Remove it, clean it, clean the port it sit in (make sure carbon isn't blocking the opening). It may just need replacing. Also clean around the main butterfly valve of the throttle body itself while your there. That would be my first thought.
Other considerations: fault crankshaft position sensor...throws off timing or stalls the engine. This could be intermittent. Stretched timing belt or chain..throws off timing.
Worse case it could be low compression. A worn out engine with excessive blow by, especially if it's a 4-cylinder, will be most noticeable at idle.
Eric I have a 2000 jeep with the exact same motor and it made the exact same noise. everyone that looked at it thought it was in the top of the motor we even used a stethoscope to try to pinpoint the problem, so I drove it home and it lost all power. turns out on mine it was a crank shaft bearing, it destroyed the piston wall so i had to replace the motor.
I have a 2003 Jeep Cherokee that has a ticking noise on top of the motor but quiets down after I run it
Bent valves? (while I'm here are tappets the same as lifters? ala, noisy tappets/lifters)
Would a compression/leak down test have shown anything Eric?
My car sounded like that once. It was low on oil, and after filling it back up, it's been perfect and noise free for about 30,000 miles.
Hello, I have sound in my engine when i exhilarate the speed is it possible to send you the sound and get your feedback?
The GM HFV6 engines also throw a code if the timing chain stretches , there is a software update which can be a temporary fix for them , but i think it's better to replace them , and there's more than one as they are a multi cam V6 , so it is not cheap , but some dealers will meet part of the cost , m y own dealer does them for $1500 NZ Ruble's
these motors are one of chryslers best, most reliable motors ever made. we have a customer with a 4.0L cherokee which he bought brand new, he is at 730,000KM's on the original motor and its still going strong. Judging by how dirty that oil looked and the fact it was at the minimum line on the dip stick i dont think this customer kept up with regular oil changes which probably played a part in the engine failing.
i wonder if its just a Straight six cylinder thing i have a Trail Blazer that sounds not as nosy but there telling me its a lifter issue so i got the blazer in the shop where i got the car and there going to replace all the lifters
I had a similar noise coming from an old volvo. I was about 2km from my destination and thought I cloud make it there. A minute later the noise got louder and I started looking for somewhere to pull over. Before I can find a good place to stop, there is a loud bang, and the engine died completely. As I opened the bonnet, one of the connecting rods was sticking out of a hole in the side of the engine... The next time I hear a sound like that, I'll stop immediatly.
This case also highlights the awkward position that a mechanic can find himself in, having worked on the vehicle only to see it die a week later. A lot of mechanics get blamed for stuff that is not their fault, mostly by people who don't understand the trade. The best way around that is education, but with the suspicion that many people have, lingering questions remain.
It was either bad lifters or connecting rod bearings.
I had a 98 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0l with over 300k kilometers, all 6 cylinders had compression within specs, and ran like a champ. I had to scrap it for parts because the rear diff crapped out on me. The 4 liter is an extremely reliable engine. Change the oil and don't beat the shit out of it, and any car will last a long time.
I tell you what I have same thing
I just bought it yesterday and there was a little bit of a ticking but not like a little lifter noise little bitty one and now it sounds like just like the one you had in your video
So, any update on this ? What was that engine's issue ?
I never had seen a 4.0 with a broken flexplate yet.1999 to 2004 4.0s had bad cylinder heads,casted wrong.#6 piston is well known for breaking first in the 4.0s.The 4.7s,drop valve seats and is Chrysler's fault.The valve seats were installed loosely and Jasper fixed this problem.
well I can tell you what have same thing happened to me 10 min ago so where do you thanking I should start
So....what happened to the engine? Did the Junkyard guy call you back?? Thanks.
Hows it doing now?
What's a power balance ?
hi
1- i have jeep xj 2000 modle i have noise in the engine on the high speed what to check
2. what is the best oil to use in the car
regards
I had this happen to my toyota 22r truck last week. It started off as a sticky valve which explained the reason why it went away and then came back as described in this video. The sticking valve was eventually hit by a piston and kept the valve stuck open. The car wouldn't start after. No compression so it just turned and turned. The tapping could be the piston hitting the valve.
How can i message u a video and maybe find out what mine is. Ithappens when im driving or stopped. Acand heat can be on or off. Same with radio
Is there a betting pool for this, yet? :-D
I'm willing to bet that the initial problem was selective oil starvation. It doesn't happen often, but I've seen engines in which one specific rod bearing doesn't get oil, causing the bearing to fail. Further, that rod now isn't squirting oil on the cylinder wall, which kills the piston/rings, and causes a cascade failure putting more tension on the rod. The sound in the vid seemed like a single, large item; not a valvetrain sort of noise. :-]
ERIC I have this same type of vehicle. I drive city type driving all the time. I change engine oil little more often then it recommends and now have 137589 miles on it and it runs great. You being a pro can and should tell is a vehicle is proper maintained. Oil to me is cheap insurance for engine life. If there is a problem get it fixed right away or it could lead to serious damage.
Is it a 2000 or 2001? Just keep your mind open to a cracked head. 2000/01 4.0's had the head casting number 0331, during those years, the cylinder heads could crack in between #3 and 4 cylinder, visible if you would take the oil filler cap off. Coolant could leak into the oil. Telltale signs of this are: unexplained coolant loss, and/or oil looking like milky coffee. Keep and eye out for that, and take care it as you do, you'll probably get many more miles out of it.