I am so pleased that Jeff Farris is doing this; because I believe him to be one of THE greatest teachers around. Woodpeckers did a good thing when they used him to do this. I put him in with the likes of Norm Abram (New Yankee Workshop); when it comes to making DIY videos. IE: They do NOT waste time on unending talk. Rather; they get right down to where the "Rubber meets the road" and keeps it interesting. So there is no boring repeats (not to mention unnecessary rhetoric) waiting to "Cut to the chase!". And of course, Jeff is telling us about one of the best woodworking tools in the world. If you have not bought one, you are in for an enjoyable surprise; when you see how awesome they are designed and manufactured; if you do buy one. Promise. Note: I am NOT an employee of Woodpeckers and NO one asked me to brag on "Woodpeckers". I am simply an old man that loves to cut wood. I hope you do too.
One year ago, I commented on this video. And bought it, and I love it. However in review now; I have a problem with this Jig, cutting Dado's. IE: Beginning at time 3:14 it is shown how to use it; when cross cutting a dado. Sorry, I have bought many Woodpeckers; since it came into being. But I would NOT try to use this cutting; a dado on cross wood. I WOULD use Woodpecker's Dado Jig 2019. For there is NO other jig like this; than can cut cross dado's when it comes to safety. And getting a good cut. Because it is too easy to not stay in parallel with long extensions, etc. No disrespect at all. Just saying what I belief.
I am enjoying this video series even though I have never done any precision woodworking. I had neither the know how or tools to do precision work. This instruction is the best way for me to learn how to use the equipment properly. Thank you!
Excellent work done and the two video on this tool are very nice. The demonstration of the interesting capabilities of the router base is very convincing. This is another very nice and useful tool from Woodpeckers. Congratulations and many thanks with my greetings from France.
Is there an attachment or have you considered adding an attachment that would allow you to use the router base with a Festool track, a UJK Progrip clamp or something similar?
Hi Jeff..Great video ..Very informative ....observation..I noticed that the router cut into the the very expensive table top of the set up table.. Is there a way to prevent and achieve the same quality result?? Please advise Thanks
That very expensive table top was 25 years old and had a 1/2" sag in the middle. The material for its replacement was already in my shop when this video was made. lol. If I had been concerned about it, I would put a piece of rigid foam on top of the table and under the workpiece. Should have thought to do that for all the people with brand new MFTs that probably gasped when I cut into mine.
Hey, at time 6.22; it's a great trick to make that oval tray. But wouldn't it be better; if one set up the woods; placing it over the end of the table. So, the router's cutter; doesn't damage the table? Just asking.
Pat, better than hanging it off the edge would have been using a piece of rigid foam between the table and the material. I do that frequently, but my MFT table was due for a new top, so I skipped it that time. Did a Deep Dive on making the replacement top a couple weeks later. I think it was ready...after almost 25 years. Pretty sure my MFT was out of the first boatload to arrive in this country.
That's an old brazed spiral bit that is no longer available (Paso Robles Carbide). A much better choice today would be a solid carbide spiral down-cut bit. Here's a link to one we make: www.woodpeck.com/ultra-shear-solid-carbide-spiral-router-bits.html or for just a little bit more, the 3-flute offers a smoother cut and less feed resistance. www.woodpeck.com/ultra-shear-solid-carbide-spiral-3-flute-router-bits.html
Yes it does. At www.woodpeck.com/multi-function-router-base.html there's a chart in the "Specifications" tab that shows some model numbers. If your model is not on the list, follow the instructions for how to determine the correct guide rod size.
Really like your presentation. I just purchased with the 10mm/1/4" rods. I need the 1/4" for my old Craftsman 315,1780. It says I get both sizes. Is that correct?
I emailed them to confirm. Sounds like the answer is yes, they send you both because Porter Cable routers aren't consistent even by model with which size they use. I need the 1/4" with a Milwaukee 5616-24, which is a hair smaller than the 5/16" rod. Hoping it holds firm, given that's a pretty small rod.
That is correct, Richard, and Ben is right. Porter-Cable changed the design of a base without changing the model number, so customers have no way to know which rods to get, so they get both.
Looks to me like it will work fine. It has attachment points for an edge guide, and from a little poking around on Makita's web site, it looks like all their routers use the same size guide rods...so looks like you're good to go.
LOL! --- I almost commented on a serious safety breach (in several of your demos) Every time you you rotated the bit -- by hand -- reaching into the danger zone -- without unplugging the router ? ? ? !!! This is an automatic firing event on most jobs I've worked. !!! DON'T EVER DO IT !!! Then, in this video I saw the disconnected extension cord lying on the floor during your hand adjustment... My Hero! Perhaps mentioning this VITAL safety step will help train the Newbies. It's a No-brainer for experienced craftsmen, but seldom thought of or practiced by people that are learning. Otherwise, your videos are top-notch! Even your terminology is precise. Two thumbs up 👍👍 Your craftsmanship is evident in all you do.., and especially in the set-up/organization of your shop.
Good video; you always leave me thinking, "I must have one of those" and my tools are decidedly either Woodpeckers "Red" or Festool "Green". Okay, some DeWalt "Yellow", too. However, I already have other ways to do these operations and I'm out of room in my shop for another redundant tool or jig. If I were in a production shop, yes, this would be a money-maker, but I don't mind cutting just outside the line on my bandsaw and fairing the curve with a spokeshave or making a routing template. Thanks, keep up the great videos.
Ok, I placed an order for this and a sys1 to store it in. You mentioned you might have a blow molded case the same size as your pen mill comes in 8“ x 12“ available so I can put the pen mandrel in it, were you able to find one? Thx, Chuck
I am a state certified building trades instructor and a 37 year trades teacher.I own a good number of Woodpecker designed tools. I just want to add one aspect of increasing the size of the router base. When working with solid stock I do not have problems with flatness of my material because I can control that situation. Composite materials are another story. Up here in northern Wisconsin on Lake Superior material is exposed to great variations of temperature and humidity.The problem might be manufacturing, transport, storage, you name it but the ability to procure truly flat plywood material is quite difficult. Cutting cabinet depth dados on a table saw surface and keeping dado depth consistant on non flat material is impossible. A router with a conventional base that follows a straight edge gives me consistent depth. In assembly, this accuracy is what allows me to build square cabinets because I can pull out warp. A large base on a router or table saw will not follow the surface contours as well to give consistent depth. Do I sound frustrated with material? I am. I spend many extra hours dealing with application of straighteners in cabinets to utilize these compromised materials. That said, if material is flat, this base and guide system certainly will give great accuracy and I see the greatest asset being related to duplication of components. Setup time must be worth the effort.
I live outside of Chicago. I hear you about the severe weather. My shop is a 3 car non-heated garage. Heat, humidity, cold, dampness it’s a constant battle. Garage space is tight due to all of my equipment, materials and need to park 2 cars inside. I found standing the sheets up against a wall and sitting on a pad of a couple of those square foam pads with the interlocking fingers you often see in primary colors at the homecenter stores. I store those goods as far from the overhead doors as possible, I also put a cheap 4x8 panel on the outside to protective sheet goods from physical damage and UV light damage, with that I have no issues. If you continue to have problems it might be that your sourcing plywood with a high internal tension and then there is nothing you can do than buy something else. The cores of the plywood are either not properly dried or are reaction wood. Hope this helps, I’m a High School Industrial Arts Student of the year 1981. Good times.
@@heystarfish100 Hey, Thanks for responding. I purchase most of my sheet stock from a local lumber yard and get better product than Home Depot or Menards out of Duluth MN. I have a pretty strong background in Wood Technology and did my masters thesis on solar lumber drying. I concur with your comment that the internal tension is the main issue. I will often spritz one side of a sheet of plywood with water on the concave surface to straighten for machining. I glue and screw in hidden straighteners to retain flatness and integrity in the final assembly.
Jeff - What are the dimensions of the multi-point access pad you used in Part 2 of your video? Also, do you make several templates of varying thicknesses depending on the project? Thanks for your great videos!
The multiple axis board is about 6 or 7 inches wide and 18 to 24 inches long, with 1/8" holes on 1" centers. You're right about thickness. You need the axis board to be just a bit thinner (or exactly the same) than the project. I pretty much make one for any project I take on.
Curious if the use of a Bosch router during this session was in reaction to all the negative comments about the high cost Festool router used during session #1. Many routers to choose from.
@@BadenCIG You're right. I probably should have used a mix of routers in the first video, but this really is my home shop, and I shot the video with what I really use. I had to go out and buy the Bosch...luckily with the company credit card!
I have already ordered the Multi-Function Router Base with 5/16" rods to fit my Festool router. Is there an attachment, or is one necessary, to use 1/4" rods in my Porter Cable 690 router?
For arcs I think you have a lot of room to play with. I haven't tested it, but I wouldn't be afraid to try one at a 3 or 4 foot radius. The fence is a little different story. At some point, the spread between the fence and the bit lets it start "leap-frogging". I've been successful with it at around 32", but I haven't tried it past that.
Great video as always, Jeff. I love your videos. Can you share what router bit you used to make the profile on the underside of the board? Thanks Jeff. Looking forward to more videos.
It's a Whiteside table edge bit, SKU 43228. It's sort of an elongated Roman ogee. I've used it for a couple different things. I like it as an under-cut...it makes the piece look like it's floating. www.woodpeck.com/whiteside-table-edge-router-bit.html
Maybe I'm dense, but I can't see where you get the trammel pins for radius cuts using the MFRB. I just got mine today and I don't see a trammel pin. I search the website and don't see it listed. Can anyone help me out?
The trammel pin should have been in Hardware Bag B. It is possible it was threaded into the vertical slider that receives the router guide rods. That's where we recommend you store it. Look at illustration J-1 on page 5 of the Owner's Manual.
Nice tool and great demo. For simple arcs, though, I’ll stick to a bandsaw or even a jigsaw. The setup is much simpler, though I do agree that the level of precision is a lot more variable depending on the user.
The biggest difference you would see is in the time you'll spend finishing. The band saw or jig saw will no doubt be faster to set up and maybe faster to make the cut, but then the real work starts...sanding to the line. Yes, there's some set-up time in using a router, but when you're done, you're done.
Is there a reason you could not use this base to finish the edges without taking the stock to a table router? I would like to see just how much this router base can do, or learn why it cannot do certain things.
There's no reason whatsoever you couldn't use this to rout the edge. A large edge molding cutter like I used is a little bit safer and easier to use in a table. If I didn't have a table, I would not hesitate to do it handheld, with the base.
A question about the base & guide rods: will one base accommodate different sized guide rods? I am thinking of upgrading my old Porter Cable router to a new Festool router in a year or so. Each router requires a different sized rod. does each need it's own base? PS Love your videos.!
So, if I were to add a set of 10mm and 5/16" guide rods to my order that already includes the 3/8" rods, I'd be future proofing my set for about $40, correct? Sounds like a wise move, I mean I love my Bosch 1617evspk, but I don't know what the future holds, right?
Sounds logical. I can't imagine a power tool manufacturer "reinventing the wheel" at this point. That group of guide rod sizes should last for quite some time.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Yeah those are my thought too. I've been eyeing the Festool OF-1400 and/or th OF-2200, but mostly I'm also thinking of when my tools get passed down, that day will come sooner or later. So I just added them and a set or extensions. Thanks, Chuck. P.S. Can you guys slow Jeff down just a bit, (Decaff comes to mind) and maybe spread out your "Deep Dives" a little? Just enough to let some of our bank accounts recover between episodes? Yes, no, maybe? Well, it was just a thought... 😁
Fred, It's 10-1/2" x 17". Really doesn't matter. I was just maxing out what I could get from some nice curly maple that I had. I multiplied the stock width that I had...10-1/2...by the golden ratio (1.618) and came up with 17 for the length.
We have not tested it with that model number but if you answer yes to these questions that yes it will be compatible 1: Does your router have holes in the base to accept a pair of guide rods? 2: Do the holes go completely through the base? 3: Will the holes fit one of these sizes: 1/4" (6mm) 5/16" (8mm), 3/8" (9.5mm) or 25/64" (10mm)? If the answer to all three questions is yes, the Multi-Function Router Base will fit your router.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Thanks for your reply. Here are my answers: 1 - yes 2 - yes 3 - yes, it accepts 1/4" So, I guess this one is the right choice: Multi-Function Router Base - Includes 10mm and 1/4" guide rods and 1 pair of 12" extension rods (SKU: MFRB-10-21) Am I right?
Is there any problem holding the wood down for the second arc? More particularly, after making the first arc, it appears that you will have very little area between the cut board and the guide board and that the board being cut would have a tendency to move while you cut the second arc. You clearly didn't have a problem with this in the video, but I was wondering if there a hidden trick you were using.
Michael. The bigger trick is getting it properly aligned. You need to have the centerline of the axis board co-linear with the centerline on the workpiece. The only way I came up with to do this is to run a straight edge across both. As for clamping the board in place, F-clamps in a grid table as I'm using in the video are certainly one of the easiest approaches. I brought the clamps up from the bottom...they're a little awkward to reach, but the grip is very secure and the low-profile jaw doesn't interfere with the guide rods.
I noticed that Jeff had his Festool clamps upside down in the table so that they did not project up into the path of his routing operation. The screw portion that you can't see has a pad with a protective cover to protect the workpiece.
Very nice, gonna order one. Not sure yet if it'll fit my router base. Hate to see you damaging your MFT top. Why not put something down to protect top, like sacrificial piece of wood or foam insulation board?
One year ago, I commented on this video. And bought it, and I love it. However in review now; I have a problem with this Jig, cutting Dado's. IE: Beginning at time 3:14 it is shown how to use it; when cross cutting a dado. Sorry, I have bought many Woodpeckers; since it came into being. But I would NOT try to use this cutting; a dado on cross wood. I WOULD use Woodpecker's Dado Jig 2019. For there is NO other jig like this; than can cut cross dado's when it comes to safety. And getting a good cut. Because it is too easy to not stay in parallel with long extensions, etc. No disrespect at all. Just saying what I believe.
Hello from Austria dear Great woodpeckers thank you for Deleting our Orders from Europe you guys are very great 🤷🏼♂️👎🏼 so many people in Europe want your tools too I don't understand why it's a problem to ship that super tools to Europe so I say sorry for my ANGRY BUD I WAS SO HOPEFULLY THAT I BECOME MY T Square and after 4 months waiting and hoping I become NOTHING!!???? I HOPE U GUYS UNDERSTAND ME
Did you intentionally rout into your MFT surface off-camera to create a "well" for the router bit to have clearance for the demonstration? Those table tops, like all Festool products, are horrendously expensive!
Yes, I cut into the top of my MFT. I don't buy replacements from Festool, though. I make my own with Woodpeckers Hole Boring Jig. If you don't want to cut into your top, you can place some scrap under your workpiece and axis board to lift them up off the table. This particular table top is over-due for replacement, so I wasn't too concerned about cutting into it.
Disappointing to see you cut into the work table surface! Wouldn't it be better to use scrap wood underneath the cheese board (project workpiece) as long as you could still clamp it down?
lol...that is a piece of scrap stock. The other side of that table has a thousand cuts and routs in it. It's so old the screws won't hold in the corners. This was its last mission before I make a new one. Elevating the project on a different sacrificial board would have meant cutting a board to sacrifice. Now that I think about it, I may hang on to the old top and swap it with a new one for just such projects.
Small business, with most (or all?) tools/jigs made in the US. Lots of folks (maybe not you) complain that not enough is made in the US these days. There's a cost to it. Whether or not that is worth it to you is your own value judgment to make.
@@Psychlist1972 no, there is a perceived cost. "Made in USA" has become branding for premium value. The market sets the price, not a cost to produce. That's a completely different discussion, though. You actually believe that tool, which consists of a couple cnc machined pieces, some MDF, and a couple steel rods has anywhere near the value of a complete multi based router kit??? Keep in mind, Dewalt makes a lot of product in the USA, yet, I'll bet you have Bosch, Milwaukee, Makita, Festool, or other foreign made tools without a second thought about it. But you're preaching... I'm not going to solely pick on Woodpecker. Kreg makes a ton of money on plastic tools.
@@ruelsmith You're correct in that the market sets the price, and that price has been driven down. That's why so many folks have inexpensive tools. The cost to produce in the US, Europe, etc. is higher than China, India, Vietnam, and similar. At least here in the US, there's a whole segment of the country that wants manufacturing brought back here, but hardly anyone is willing to pay what that actually costs. I wasn't preaching. I have an assortment of tools from different companies, based on what I value from each tool. I have Festool, Felder, and plenty of Woodpeckers. And yes, I have some Bosch. I'm not aware of anything from DeWalt still made in the US, not since they were taken over by B&D. Maybe I'm wrong there. But Woodpeckers is a US-based company, paying US-based salaries with US-based overhead. Yes, that will directly impact the cost of the tools made by them. And, like I said, it's up to you to decide if you want to pay for that.
Just to be clear, there's not one piece of MDF in this product. The base and extension base are solid phenolic, a far different product than MDF. All rods and 99% of the hardware are stainless steel. This is a lifetime, corrosion-free tool that could quite easily outlast two or three different routers you might use it with. I don't quite understand the cost comparison of this tool to the cost of a multi-base router package. The point of this tool is that the multi-base router package isn't equipped to guide the router when you take it out of the box.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I am so pleased that Jeff Farris is doing this; because I believe him to be one of THE greatest teachers around. Woodpeckers did a good thing when they used him to do this. I put him in with the likes of Norm Abram (New Yankee Workshop); when it comes to making DIY videos.
IE: They do NOT waste time on unending talk. Rather; they get right down to where the "Rubber meets the road" and keeps it interesting. So there is no boring repeats (not to mention unnecessary rhetoric) waiting to "Cut to the chase!".
And of course, Jeff is telling us about one of the best woodworking tools in the world. If you have not bought one, you are in for an enjoyable surprise; when you see how awesome they are designed and manufactured; if you do buy one. Promise.
Note: I am NOT an employee of Woodpeckers and NO one asked me to brag on "Woodpeckers". I am simply an old man that loves to cut wood. I hope you do too.
Fully agree. Woodsmith should consider using Jeff as well.
One year ago, I commented on this video. And bought it, and I love it. However in review now; I have a problem with this Jig, cutting Dado's. IE: Beginning at time 3:14 it is shown how to use it; when cross cutting a dado.
Sorry, I have bought many Woodpeckers; since it came into being. But I would NOT try to use this cutting; a dado on cross wood. I WOULD use Woodpecker's Dado Jig 2019. For there is NO other jig like this; than can cut cross dado's when it comes to safety. And getting a good cut. Because it is too easy to not stay in parallel with long extensions, etc.
No disrespect at all. Just saying what I belief.
Wish I could spend a month with this guy...the knowledge would be great.
Great now I have to add that to my growing list of woodpeckers tools I'm going to get.
Love the router base. Hope you make videos on this system.
I am enjoying this video series even though I have never done any precision woodworking. I had neither the know how or tools to do precision work. This instruction is the best way for me to learn how to use the equipment properly. Thank you!
Excellent work done and the two video on this tool are very nice. The demonstration of the interesting capabilities of the router base is very convincing. This is another very nice and useful tool from Woodpeckers. Congratulations and many thanks with my greetings from France.
Is there an attachment or have you considered adding an attachment that would allow you to use the router base with a Festool track, a UJK Progrip clamp or something similar?
What is the limit to the maximum number of extender rods that can be used? Is it possible to do a 60” radius?
Nice tools you make. Nice video too. Keep up the good work.
Thanks 👍
Woodpeckers 😉
Hi Jeff..Great video ..Very informative ....observation..I noticed that the router cut into the the very expensive table top of the set up table.. Is there a way to prevent and achieve the same quality result??
Please advise
Thanks
That very expensive table top was 25 years old and had a 1/2" sag in the middle. The material for its replacement was already in my shop when this video was made. lol. If I had been concerned about it, I would put a piece of rigid foam on top of the table and under the workpiece. Should have thought to do that for all the people with brand new MFTs that probably gasped when I cut into mine.
Got it
Cheers
Loving that even more after part 2 WOW
Hey, at time 6.22; it's a great trick to make that oval tray. But wouldn't it be better; if one set up the woods; placing it over the end of the table. So, the router's cutter; doesn't damage the table? Just asking.
Pat, better than hanging it off the edge would have been using a piece of rigid foam between the table and the material. I do that frequently, but my MFT table was due for a new top, so I skipped it that time. Did a Deep Dive on making the replacement top a couple weeks later. I think it was ready...after almost 25 years. Pretty sure my MFT was out of the first boatload to arrive in this country.
Do you mind sharing what router bit you used for the dados?
That's an old brazed spiral bit that is no longer available (Paso Robles Carbide). A much better choice today would be a solid carbide spiral down-cut bit. Here's a link to one we make: www.woodpeck.com/ultra-shear-solid-carbide-spiral-router-bits.html or for just a little bit more, the 3-flute offers a smoother cut and less feed resistance. www.woodpeck.com/ultra-shear-solid-carbide-spiral-3-flute-router-bits.html
Pretty darn awesome.
Hello from México Ciy excelent ools
Hi Jeff
My name is Navarro and I would like to know if this router base accepts Porter Cable routers ?
Yes it does. At www.woodpeck.com/multi-function-router-base.html there's a chart in the "Specifications" tab that shows some model numbers. If your model is not on the list, follow the instructions for how to determine the correct guide rod size.
Excellent videos! Can’t wait to get some of your products. Hard to come by in Calgary.
I'm very excited to get this base!! Great instruction...now I just don't want to wait for my tool to arrive...haha
Really like your presentation. I just purchased with the 10mm/1/4" rods. I need the 1/4" for my old Craftsman 315,1780. It says I get both sizes. Is that correct?
I emailed them to confirm. Sounds like the answer is yes, they send you both because Porter Cable routers aren't consistent even by model with which size they use. I need the 1/4" with a Milwaukee 5616-24, which is a hair smaller than the 5/16" rod. Hoping it holds firm, given that's a pretty small rod.
That is correct, Richard, and Ben is right. Porter-Cable changed the design of a base without changing the model number, so customers have no way to know which rods to get, so they get both.
I have a Makita RP0900. Is this compatible to this jig? Watching both videos, it seems like a big YES. But I'm afraid to be wrong.
Looks to me like it will work fine. It has attachment points for an edge guide, and from a little poking around on Makita's web site, it looks like all their routers use the same size guide rods...so looks like you're good to go.
LOL! --- I almost commented on a serious safety breach (in several of your demos) Every time you you rotated the bit -- by hand -- reaching into the danger zone -- without unplugging the router ? ? ? !!! This is an automatic firing event on most jobs I've worked. !!! DON'T EVER DO IT !!! Then, in this video I saw the disconnected extension cord lying on the floor during your hand adjustment... My Hero! Perhaps mentioning this VITAL safety step will help train the Newbies. It's a No-brainer for experienced craftsmen, but seldom thought of or practiced by people that are learning. Otherwise, your videos are top-notch! Even your terminology is precise. Two thumbs up 👍👍 Your craftsmanship is evident in all you do.., and especially in the set-up/organization of your shop.
Will do, thank you!!!
Good video; you always leave me thinking, "I must have one of those" and my tools are decidedly either Woodpeckers "Red" or Festool "Green". Okay, some DeWalt "Yellow", too. However, I already have other ways to do these operations and I'm out of room in my shop for another redundant tool or jig. If I were in a production shop, yes, this would be a money-maker, but I don't mind cutting just outside the line on my bandsaw and fairing the curve with a spokeshave or making a routing template. Thanks, keep up the great videos.
Ok, I placed an order for this and a sys1 to store it in. You mentioned you might have a blow molded case the same size as your pen mill comes in 8“ x 12“ available so I can put the pen mandrel in it, were you able to find one? Thx, Chuck
I am a state certified building trades instructor and a 37 year trades teacher.I own a good number of Woodpecker designed tools. I just want to add one aspect of increasing the size of the router base. When working with solid stock I do not have problems with flatness of my material because I can control that situation. Composite materials are another story. Up here in northern Wisconsin on Lake Superior material is exposed to great variations of temperature and humidity.The problem might be manufacturing, transport, storage, you name it but the ability to procure truly flat plywood material is quite difficult. Cutting cabinet depth dados on a table saw surface and keeping dado depth consistant on non flat material is impossible. A router with a conventional base that follows a straight edge gives me consistent depth. In assembly, this accuracy is what allows me to build square cabinets because I can pull out warp. A large base on a router or table saw will not follow the surface contours as well to give consistent depth. Do I sound frustrated with material? I am. I spend many extra hours dealing with application of straighteners in cabinets to utilize these compromised materials. That said, if material is flat, this base and guide system certainly will give great accuracy and I see the greatest asset being related to duplication of components. Setup time must be worth the effort.
I live outside of Chicago. I hear you about the severe weather. My shop is a 3 car non-heated garage. Heat, humidity, cold, dampness it’s a constant battle. Garage space is tight due to all of my equipment, materials and need to park 2 cars inside. I found standing the sheets up against a wall and sitting on a pad of a couple of those square foam pads with the interlocking fingers you often see in primary colors at the homecenter stores. I store those goods as far from the overhead doors as possible, I also put a cheap 4x8 panel on the outside to protective sheet goods from physical damage and UV light damage, with that I have no issues. If you continue to have problems it might be that your sourcing plywood with a high internal tension and then there is nothing you can do than buy something else. The cores of the plywood are either not properly dried or are reaction wood. Hope this helps, I’m a High School Industrial Arts Student of the year 1981. Good times.
@@heystarfish100 Hey, Thanks for responding. I purchase most of my sheet stock from a local lumber yard and get better product than Home Depot or Menards out of Duluth MN. I have a pretty strong background in Wood Technology and did my masters thesis on solar lumber drying. I concur with your comment that the internal tension is the main issue. I will often spritz one side of a sheet of plywood with water on the concave surface to straighten for machining. I glue and screw in hidden straighteners to retain flatness and integrity in the final assembly.
Here in Austin, Texas, it was 6 degrees last Tuesday during the freeze disaster and eight days later it hit 81.
Jeff - What are the dimensions of the multi-point access pad you used in Part 2 of your video? Also, do you make several templates of varying thicknesses depending on the project? Thanks for your great videos!
The multiple axis board is about 6 or 7 inches wide and 18 to 24 inches long, with 1/8" holes on 1" centers. You're right about thickness. You need the axis board to be just a bit thinner (or exactly the same) than the project. I pretty much make one for any project I take on.
Very nice. I just can't stand watching the damage of the table. Is it really necessary?
Could have used a piece of scrap between, but I was planning to replace the top anyway. I already had the new top cut and ready to rout the grid.
Curious if the use of a Bosch router during this session was in reaction to all the negative comments about the high cost Festool router used during session #1. Many routers to choose from.
Just showing that there are options. It isn't a "Festool Accessory"...it will work with almost any router that has guide rods.
@@WoodpeckersLLC woodworkers get pretty territorial about their primary tools.
@@BadenCIG You're right. I probably should have used a mix of routers in the first video, but this really is my home shop, and I shot the video with what I really use. I had to go out and buy the Bosch...luckily with the company credit card!
@@WoodpeckersLLC That is a great reply! Have a good and safe weekend in the shop.
I have already ordered the Multi-Function Router Base with 5/16" rods to fit my Festool router. Is there an attachment, or is one necessary, to use 1/4" rods in my Porter Cable 690 router?
Raymond, just add a pair of 1/4" rods to your order.
Is there an advised maximum length to which the extensions can go?
For arcs I think you have a lot of room to play with. I haven't tested it, but I wouldn't be afraid to try one at a 3 or 4 foot radius. The fence is a little different story. At some point, the spread between the fence and the bit lets it start "leap-frogging". I've been successful with it at around 32", but I haven't tried it past that.
Great video as always, Jeff. I love your videos. Can you share what router bit you used to make the profile on the underside of the board? Thanks Jeff. Looking forward to more videos.
It's a Whiteside table edge bit, SKU 43228. It's sort of an elongated Roman ogee. I've used it for a couple different things. I like it as an under-cut...it makes the piece look like it's floating.
www.woodpeck.com/whiteside-table-edge-router-bit.html
Maybe I'm dense, but I can't see where you get the trammel pins for radius cuts using the MFRB. I just got mine today and I don't see a trammel pin. I search the website and don't see it listed. Can anyone help me out?
The trammel pin should have been in Hardware Bag B. It is possible it was threaded into the vertical slider that receives the router guide rods. That's where we recommend you store it. Look at illustration J-1 on page 5 of the Owner's Manual.
@@WoodpeckersLLC awesome! That's exactly where it was. Thanks for your reply.
Nice tool and great demo. For simple arcs, though, I’ll stick to a bandsaw or even a jigsaw. The setup is much simpler, though I do agree that the level of precision is a lot more variable depending on the user.
The biggest difference you would see is in the time you'll spend finishing. The band saw or jig saw will no doubt be faster to set up and maybe faster to make the cut, but then the real work starts...sanding to the line. Yes, there's some set-up time in using a router, but when you're done, you're done.
Is there a reason you could not use this base to finish the edges without taking the stock to a table router? I would like to see just how much this router base can do, or learn why it cannot do certain things.
There's no reason whatsoever you couldn't use this to rout the edge. A large edge molding cutter like I used is a little bit safer and easier to use in a table. If I didn't have a table, I would not hesitate to do it handheld, with the base.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Thank you!
Great vid. When does the new square comes out? And what is it made of?
Tuesday. G-10
A question about the base & guide rods: will one base accommodate different sized guide rods? I am thinking of upgrading my old Porter Cable router to a new Festool router in a year or so. Each router requires a different sized rod. does each need it's own base? PS Love your videos.!
When you change routers, all you'll need to do is get a new set of rods for $20.
So, if I were to add a set of 10mm and 5/16" guide rods to my order that already includes the 3/8" rods, I'd be future proofing my set for about $40, correct? Sounds like a wise move, I mean I love my Bosch 1617evspk, but I don't know what the future holds, right?
Sounds logical. I can't imagine a power tool manufacturer "reinventing the wheel" at this point. That group of guide rod sizes should last for quite some time.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Yeah those are my thought too. I've been eyeing the Festool OF-1400 and/or th OF-2200, but mostly I'm also thinking of when my tools get passed down, that day will come sooner or later. So I just added them and a set or extensions. Thanks, Chuck. P.S. Can you guys slow Jeff down just a bit, (Decaff comes to mind) and maybe spread out your "Deep Dives" a little? Just enough to let some of our bank accounts recover between episodes? Yes, no, maybe? Well, it was just a thought... 😁
What size is the platter you were making
Fred, It's 10-1/2" x 17". Really doesn't matter. I was just maxing out what I could get from some nice curly maple that I had. I multiplied the stock width that I had...10-1/2...by the golden ratio (1.618) and came up with 17 for the length.
Is it compatible with Milwaukee Compact Router Plunge Base (48-10-5601)?
We have not tested it with that model number but if you answer yes to these questions that yes it will be compatible
1: Does your router have holes in the base to accept a pair of guide rods?
2: Do the holes go completely through the base?
3: Will the holes fit one of these sizes: 1/4" (6mm) 5/16" (8mm), 3/8" (9.5mm) or 25/64" (10mm)?
If the answer to all three questions is yes, the Multi-Function Router Base will fit your router.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Thanks for your reply. Here are my answers:
1 - yes
2 - yes
3 - yes, it accepts 1/4"
So, I guess this one is the right choice:
Multi-Function Router Base - Includes 10mm and 1/4" guide rods and 1 pair of 12" extension rods (SKU: MFRB-10-21)
Am I right?
You are correct.
Will it work with milwaukee m18 compact router ?
I don't think so. I just looked at the photos on Milwaukee's web site, and I don't see any holes for guide rods.
You need to look at the plunge base it sold separetly
I just look and a attachment that comes with the plunge base for hose vacuum adapter use rods
Do you own the router, or are you trying to decide? If you have it, measure the rod holes. If they match one of the sizes we offer, you're good to go.
I own the router what i dont have is the plunge base 🥲
Is there any problem holding the wood down for the second arc? More particularly, after making the first arc, it appears that you will have very little area between the cut board and the guide board and that the board being cut would have a tendency to move while you cut the second arc. You clearly didn't have a problem with this in the video, but I was wondering if there a hidden trick you were using.
Michael. The bigger trick is getting it properly aligned. You need to have the centerline of the axis board co-linear with the centerline on the workpiece. The only way I came up with to do this is to run a straight edge across both. As for clamping the board in place, F-clamps in a grid table as I'm using in the video are certainly one of the easiest approaches. I brought the clamps up from the bottom...they're a little awkward to reach, but the grip is very secure and the low-profile jaw doesn't interfere with the guide rods.
I noticed that Jeff had his Festool clamps upside down in the table so that they did not project up into the path of his routing operation. The screw portion that you can't see has a pad with a protective cover to protect the workpiece.
Very nice, gonna order one. Not sure yet if it'll fit my router base.
Hate to see you damaging your MFT top. Why not put something down to protect top, like sacrificial piece of wood or foam insulation board?
That MFT top was 20 years old and ready for replacement.
Do it in half the time with a band saw and sander. Lots cheaper too.
Speed vs accuracy and cleanup. To each their own.
One year ago, I commented on this video. And bought it, and I love it. However in review now; I have a problem with this Jig, cutting Dado's. IE: Beginning at time 3:14 it is shown how to use it; when cross cutting a dado.
Sorry, I have bought many Woodpeckers; since it came into being. But I would NOT try to use this cutting; a dado on cross wood. I WOULD use Woodpecker's Dado Jig 2019. For there is NO other jig like this; than can cut cross dado's when it comes to safety. And getting a good cut. Because it is too easy to not stay in parallel with long extensions, etc.
No disrespect at all. Just saying what I believe.
Hi, Great video and I would order today BUT everything I order from Woodpeckers takes 2-3 months to get so sorry I'll order someones else's product.
Ok, go order junk
Hello from Austria dear Great woodpeckers thank you for Deleting our Orders from Europe you guys are very great 🤷🏼♂️👎🏼 so many people in Europe want your tools too I don't understand why it's a problem to ship that super tools to Europe so I say sorry for my ANGRY BUD I WAS SO HOPEFULLY THAT I BECOME MY T Square and after 4 months waiting and hoping I become NOTHING!!???? I HOPE U GUYS UNDERSTAND ME
Did you intentionally rout into your MFT surface off-camera to create a "well" for the router bit to have clearance for the demonstration? Those table tops, like all Festool products, are horrendously expensive!
Yes, I cut into the top of my MFT. I don't buy replacements from Festool, though. I make my own with Woodpeckers Hole Boring Jig. If you don't want to cut into your top, you can place some scrap under your workpiece and axis board to lift them up off the table. This particular table top is over-due for replacement, so I wasn't too concerned about cutting into it.
Disappointing to see you cut into the work table surface! Wouldn't it be better to use scrap wood underneath the cheese board (project workpiece) as long as you could still clamp it down?
lol...that is a piece of scrap stock. The other side of that table has a thousand cuts and routs in it. It's so old the screws won't hold in the corners. This was its last mission before I make a new one. Elevating the project on a different sacrificial board would have meant cutting a board to sacrifice. Now that I think about it, I may hang on to the old top and swap it with a new one for just such projects.
The top is made to have accidents
Poor MFT top. 😢
It looks absolutely great, but I cringe at $219??? I can buy an entire multi based router kit for that! Talk about sticker shock!
Small business, with most (or all?) tools/jigs made in the US. Lots of folks (maybe not you) complain that not enough is made in the US these days. There's a cost to it. Whether or not that is worth it to you is your own value judgment to make.
@@Psychlist1972 no, there is a perceived cost. "Made in USA" has become branding for premium value. The market sets the price, not a cost to produce. That's a completely different discussion, though.
You actually believe that tool, which consists of a couple cnc machined pieces, some MDF, and a couple steel rods has anywhere near the value of a complete multi based router kit??? Keep in mind, Dewalt makes a lot of product in the USA, yet, I'll bet you have Bosch, Milwaukee, Makita, Festool, or other foreign made tools without a second thought about it. But you're preaching...
I'm not going to solely pick on Woodpecker. Kreg makes a ton of money on plastic tools.
@@ruelsmith You're correct in that the market sets the price, and that price has been driven down. That's why so many folks have inexpensive tools. The cost to produce in the US, Europe, etc. is higher than China, India, Vietnam, and similar. At least here in the US, there's a whole segment of the country that wants manufacturing brought back here, but hardly anyone is willing to pay what that actually costs.
I wasn't preaching. I have an assortment of tools from different companies, based on what I value from each tool. I have Festool, Felder, and plenty of Woodpeckers. And yes, I have some Bosch.
I'm not aware of anything from DeWalt still made in the US, not since they were taken over by B&D. Maybe I'm wrong there.
But Woodpeckers is a US-based company, paying US-based salaries with US-based overhead. Yes, that will directly impact the cost of the tools made by them. And, like I said, it's up to you to decide if you want to pay for that.
Just to be clear, there's not one piece of MDF in this product. The base and extension base are solid phenolic, a far different product than MDF. All rods and 99% of the hardware are stainless steel. This is a lifetime, corrosion-free tool that could quite easily outlast two or three different routers you might use it with. I don't quite understand the cost comparison of this tool to the cost of a multi-base router package. The point of this tool is that the multi-base router package isn't equipped to guide the router when you take it out of the box.
Fuel is absolutely clueless