How to fix Saitek Pro Flight Yoke Dead Zone with a Leo Bodnar BU0836A 12-bit controller

Hi,
This is another enhancement video for my Saitek Pro Flight Yoke. The unit is very cheap, so you cannot expect much in comparison to more professional and more expensive options. However, with a bit of tlc we can upgrade it to a useful, reliable unit.
In our last video, we removed the original spring mechanism and replaced it with rubber bands. In this occasion, we are gonna be replacing the original joystick controller (10 bits) with a Leo Bodnar BU0836A controller, which is 12 bits. This means, that the potentiometer analog-to-digital conversion will be much more sensitive (4092 steps) so the dead center will be reduced, and the accuracy of the unit will increase. This is particularly important in some manoeuvres, such as landing flare.
( Until they sponsor me) there's nothing special about the Leo Bodnar BU0836A, it is based on a PIC18F2458, so you could very much design you own board. However, I could not find any reasonably cheaper source for the PIC so I ended up buying the Leo, it was £25 + around £8 in P&P to Catalonia.
Thanks for watching

[@Stoney3K]

Rule of thumb for potentiometers: The wiper (signal) is always in the middle, there's a fixed resistance between the two outer pins which are on opposite ends of the carbon track.

[@BarcelonaAustinA35]

👍

[@alexcurmi7412]

I found that signal was yellow for me and voltage was red. I wired it the way you said in the video and the controls were very jumpy and unresponsive. I thought my board was broken but after switching the connections of signal and +5v around, it was perfect. I guess Saitek wired the potentiometers differently on a few models

[@supertuxkartgamingexperien5728]

Thank you for the great fix. There is a simplified version of that fix: add a resistor e.g. 39k (I have 33k potentiometers) into the potentiometers positive supply wires. That will reduce the signal and the ADC/firmware does not apply that dead zone gap in that range. Of course one has to recalibrate after that and the resolution is reduced by 1 bit, but for me that works still very well.
I also removed just one of the two elevation centering springs and that gives a usable yoke for me.

[@way5718]

Any tuto or video that shows the modification you're describing?

[@supertuxkartgamingexperien5728]

@@way5718 no, but I don't think it's necessary. It should work the same if you would use the negative (GND) supply line for adding the resistors, just take any of the outer connections at the potentiometers.

[@alexgallegos4526]

hi mate could u please help me with that? buy a leobodnar board is so expensive

[@wj625]

I’m upgrading an old gameport style joystick and you helped me decide on which board to use!

[@BarcelonaAustinA35]

Glad it helped! Thanks for your comment

[@krikol_77]

Thanks, it’s working great ! (Except for some easy fix issues).
I gave up on this little project 2 years ago because of the jumpy controls (wrong spot for the cables) but now it’s fixed ^^

[@zsolttakacs4223]

Thanks, it works perfectly✋

[@RobertoDelDuca]

Question... Why not cut the usb connector and solder the cables directly on the solder points of the usb port on the original pcb?
The hole would not be necessary and you would not see unnecessary cables coming out of the yoke

[@BarcelonaAustinA35]

It is a good option as well!

[@Pyrolassist]

Has anyone done this mod but with hall effect sensors as well? Does the Leo Bodnar board work with hall effect sensors?

[@6ALEX02]

Can I use the buttons on the yoke after installing the board?

[@user-fl1ec1jw4c]

Is Arduino Uno suitable for this?

[@upjohn5548]

How to connect with LeoBodnar BU0836-LC board?

[@_google_user_]

same way you add it to x and y on a slot being + and - on board, if you mess it up you flip the deans connector around on the board. one of those is bound to be the joystick axis.

[@chrisybradshaw8594]

HI AFTER DOING THIS I FOUND THAT ELEVATER WHEN PULLED BACK GOES FORWARD AND VICE VERSER, IE BACK TO FRONT

[@BarcelonaAustinA35]

You may have to invert the axis in the configuration

[@lewymartain8267]

Make sure you have your block connectors on the board exactly as it says and the signal is not mixed up with the negative feed. Also make sure nothing is touching anything it shouldn't be wire wise I mean. dont tighten screw too tight on the board. I didn't do this option it is too near the other board for my liking.

[@dash9655]

swapping the outer wires on the potentiometer will invert that axis.

[@immystiq1121]

I have done this and it’s so jumpy and un useable

[@BarcelonaAustinA35]

Potentiometers may be beyond repair,,,

[@alexcurmi7412]

I had the same issue, your signal and voltage wires for the potentiometers are the wrong way round. For me, yellow was signal and red was positive

[@BarcelonaAustinA35]

And its different for each brand! Logitech is one way, and then there’s other chinese similar yokes with different wiring distribution lol