i had an 81 celica supra gts with a homebuilt round track engine. a 22re with an r head, hand ported, with a 3 inch flex pipe as the exaust. rough as hell. broke the rear suspension eventually and swapped the engine into an 82 gts supra with a bad engine. never blew the engine no matter how long it was full throttle. always broke suspension or rearend stuff. got a wreckless op drifting the streets of columbus ohio even though i never wrecked it. that car spent more time bouncing off redline than any car i had ever driven.
I had one back in the late 80s. Sr5, two tone, red over black. I can honestly say that it wasn't any fun to drive in high winds, 15 to 20 mph wind. The car was so light in the front that the car would seriously float all over the road. I guess a bigger engine would have been a good idea. Back then, the late 80s, no one was doing anything to these cars. They were just an odd little, underpowered Japanese car. If I remember correctly it was only a 1800 cc engine with a little two barrel carburetor. It was a fun little car to drive, I used to refer to it as a Japanese Alfa Romeo. Rear wheel drive in Wisconsin winters wasn't much fun, I did get a lot of practice counter steering when the rear end of the car stated sliding out. Ended up trading it in on a dodge Lazer. Pop up headlights were pretty cool. I remember having a morning dove clip one of the headlights on the way to work one morning. You know how birds take flight just as you get near them. That bird just exploded when it hit the edge of the light. I looked when I got to work but there was nothing left of the bird.
Hey!!! It’s a 4A-C engine with Yamaha R1 Mikuni Carbs. The carbs fixed the flooding issue around hard left hand corners and gives better throttle response. It’s not as “streetable” because the carbs don’t have enough choke to warm up such a big engine so you have to manually warm the car up by dialing the idle adjuster way up, and then bring it down as it gets warm. But once it’s up to temperature it functions perfectly. Because the throttle is meant for a wrist throttle the gas pedal has less stroke than a stock setup so the gas pedal is more touchy, but I got used to it pretty quickly
@@SidewaysEightSix that's cool! Thanks fo the info. I'm just now actually considering of buying an ae86 (85) actually because it has the 3AU engine. I'd appreciate your advise. It's a completely stripped down car and all in boxes as it was getting ready for painting etc. It has been in that state for a couple of years now but doesn't look too bad actually. The guy claims to have all the parts to put it back together and wants 3000$ for it. I can send you pictures on email. I'd really appreciate your help
@@artemdrives DM me on my social medias. TikTok and Instagram is the same username. $3,000 is an absolute steal for a chassis these days. A true 85 is different and has some challenges but it’s still a very rewarding car to drive.
No. The “frame” is between those pockets and the spare tire/tyre holder. Typically from what I’ve seen, take off the bumper and cut the outside of the pockets off. (On the bottom of each quarter panel) Make sure to drill out the spot welds and try to cut as one big clean piece so it’s easier to weld/fabricate replacements. Once you have the outside half off, you can get a better look at the inside half.
i had an 81 celica supra gts with a homebuilt round track engine. a 22re with an r head, hand ported, with a 3 inch flex pipe as the exaust. rough as hell. broke the rear suspension eventually and swapped the engine into an 82 gts supra with a bad engine. never blew the engine no matter how long it was full throttle. always broke suspension or rearend stuff. got a wreckless op drifting the streets of columbus ohio even though i never wrecked it. that car spent more time bouncing off redline than any car i had ever driven.
its rearend was different. independent rear. it rusted out and the car fell on the tire. sad end to my favorite car
Those were some really cool cars. I hope to play with one some day
I had one back in the late 80s. Sr5, two tone, red over black. I can honestly say that it wasn't any fun to drive in high winds, 15 to 20 mph wind. The car was so light in the front that the car would seriously float all over the road. I guess a bigger engine would have been a good idea. Back then, the late 80s, no one was doing anything to these cars. They were just an odd little, underpowered Japanese car. If I remember correctly it was only a 1800 cc engine with a little two barrel carburetor. It was a fun little car to drive, I used to refer to it as a Japanese Alfa Romeo. Rear wheel drive in Wisconsin winters wasn't much fun, I did get a lot of practice counter steering when the rear end of the car stated sliding out. Ended up trading it in on a dodge Lazer. Pop up headlights were pretty cool.
I remember having a morning dove clip one of the headlights on the way to work one morning. You know how birds take flight just as you get near them. That bird just exploded when it hit the edge of the light. I looked when I got to work but there was nothing left of the bird.
@@paul5683 my 82 was a celica gts with the wide tires and indepedent rear. 22re rear wheel drive 5 speed standard. much bigger engine.
@@paul5683 yup they came with either a 18R/18RG (1.8L or 1,800cc) or a 20R (2.0L or 2,000cc)
I can say my corollas are not fun in high winds either. 😅
What engine do you have in the white one? Is it the 3A-U and what carbs do you have? How does it perform?
Hey!!! It’s a 4A-C engine with Yamaha R1 Mikuni Carbs. The carbs fixed the flooding issue around hard left hand corners and gives better throttle response. It’s not as “streetable” because the carbs don’t have enough choke to warm up such a big engine so you have to manually warm the car up by dialing the idle adjuster way up, and then bring it down as it gets warm. But once it’s up to temperature it functions perfectly. Because the throttle is meant for a wrist throttle the gas pedal has less stroke than a stock setup so the gas pedal is more touchy, but I got used to it pretty quickly
@@SidewaysEightSix that's cool! Thanks fo the info. I'm just now actually considering of buying an ae86 (85) actually because it has the 3AU engine. I'd appreciate your advise. It's a completely stripped down car and all in boxes as it was getting ready for painting etc. It has been in that state for a couple of years now but doesn't look too bad actually. The guy claims to have all the parts to put it back together and wants 3000$ for it. I can send you pictures on email. I'd really appreciate your help
@@artemdrives DM me on my social medias. TikTok and Instagram is the same username. $3,000 is an absolute steal for a chassis these days. A true 85 is different and has some challenges but it’s still a very rewarding car to drive.
How hard is it to fix rust in the pockets , mine only has a little bit
The only true way to fix it is to cut out the rust and weld in new metal.
13:21 my KE70 also rusted, heavily, inside those pockets and now I'm figuring out how to fix that
Do I need to cut spare tyre well first?
No. The “frame” is between those pockets and the spare tire/tyre holder. Typically from what I’ve seen, take off the bumper and cut the outside of the pockets off. (On the bottom of each quarter panel) Make sure to drill out the spot welds and try to cut as one big clean piece so it’s easier to weld/fabricate replacements.
Once you have the outside half off, you can get a better look at the inside half.
@@SidewaysEightSix okay.. I get it, so start from the outside instead of inside cutting the spare tire well
I'll try it thank you for the suggestion!