The electronics box looks like there's plenty of room plus even if I hook up all of the fans to a single LM2596 it should be good, the amp draw of 12 volt fans comparatively small.You can also buy fairly small LM2596 's with a 3 amp rating, the one I'm looking to get is only 65x35
really good video, are you still using the Chiron in 2024/5? Recently mine stops printing after 5+hrs only during long prints, im printing floorplans. So the nozzle temp goes to 0 and so does the bed temp go to 0. ive seen conflicting videos showing sd card failure but ive replaced that with a quality 128gb san disk, the printer stays on and thinks its still printing on the display although the head is no longer moving! i press pause or stop and it get stuck forever on "sending command". Would be very greatful for your insight. Im going to try to print another large print with the bed heating off as i just did a small one over 5 hrs without the bed and no problem. this is quite strange...ive even seen online people saying it could be the model but how when its printing small and med versions of the floorplan? Thanks Chris Singapore :)
Thanks for the video! Waiting on this printer now. I would like a video with installing OctoPrint/OctoPi in this machine. With the seperate power supplies could you power on and off the printer with OctoPrint? Also are the tmc2208 just plug and play on the trigorrila board?
I just installed TMC2208 drivers to the X and Y. They go right in, used the old drivers as reference for the correct orientation and switch the wire direction. I pull the plastic receptacle out and then flip and plug in the wires without it.
Good video.I have a question I want to use meanwell power supply 750 watt 24v.I saw on your video there is small cable goes to V+ to V+ .Do you know what is the reason ?
Hello Tak! I have a few questions regarding the power supply unit (smaller/black one to be exact). Could you maybe tell me what's the related output (power, volts and amps)? It would mean a world to me. Thank you in advance, Evan.
Thank you for the video this totally saved me from flipping over my Chiron and opening it up again just to check the fan connection. By the way, do you happen to know the fan size for the power supply?
Hi :) I have a Chiron and I tried 2 sets of TMC2208 - one without setup #StealthChop and one set with setup #SpreadCycle. In both cases I didn't set the speed in half as in the other RUclips videos +remember to read the connections on the chip vs the connections on the board - in my case I had to mount them upside down when I swapped the A4988 drivers :) NOW: I couldn't set the Z axes with tmc2208 because it needs to have some firmware setup for homing (one of the motors doesn’t react to the limit sensor) So I let only the X and Y axis with tmc2208 - but after a small test print I'm kind of thinking I'll go back to A4988 chips on all drivers till someone from Anycubic will make a firmware for them The difference in noise is huge and to silent the printer I also swapped the power supply's fan and the motherboard's fan with 2 Noctua 60mm fans - using a dc-dc xl4005 converter from 24-12v connected to the main power supply and 2 fan connectors that came with Noctua 40mm If the printer could run with the tmc2208 and noctua fans - it would make it a super good printer For bed leveling I had to setup it manually with the printer turned off - after that I used the Probe - and I had to cancel the test print several times and setup manual oversetting to all points (different settings with every nozzle) I tried 0.1mm - 0.2mm - 0.25mm - 0.3mm - 0.4mm nozzles. 0.25mm was the best I could setup till know - because I couldn’t find the perfect extrusion settings even for 0.25mm = after 5mm height of printing the extruder somehow stops extruding... I have no idea way… But with 0.4mm and setting from Chiron’s manual guide it works almost perfect. Best results in my case - with PLA and 0.25mm are: 6mm height retraction - 60mm/s retraction - 185grade hot end - G28 X0; end script With 0.4mm I only tried 195grades at hot end because I didn’t do the tower test to temperature yet and only printed some test models :) Anyone had any experience with the TMC2208? Or can anyone help me with them? 10q I saved the V-settings for each original driver - 0.85/0.97/0.94/0.80/0.91 and I tried with 1.2 on the Z axis - thinking it needs more power to run both the sensors and the motors - yet the 4th driver #0.80 one doesn’t seem to be used for anything - but I have no idea 😊
if using tmc2208s you have to reverse the wires in the connector at least the first 2 of each connector x/y . I reversed all 4 wires as many have been doing and it works great also set them to 1.20v
Question : do i undestand it correctly when I think the bed level sensor has to be manually connected to the machine for bed leveling, and has to be manually removed prior to printing ? The thing in the hotend case is a magnetic MOUNT for the actual probe which you have to remove prior to printing ? Kinda archaïc but well, it would work.
I wonder if the "extra power suppy box" (the black plastic thing which appears to be fed by the main 1000W PSU) is responsible for the power-resume function, a bit like on the U20. Did you test this feature on the machine ?
Trigorilla boards have no onboard capability for power-resume functionality afaik. There's no reason to have "something between the main PSU and the Trigorilla" from a standard electric side as these boards can do both 12 and 24V. That's why I don't think "it's just an extra power supply", that wouldn't make much sense. On the Alfawise U10, a similar "box inbetween" can be seen which is responsible for the power-resume functionality. I'm wondering what is in that box. :D Yeah I know, way too curious. :)
My biggest concern is will it have at least same print quality as CR-10? As someone pointed out previously, that benchy and Pharah print doesn't look really astonishing. Looking forward for more videos especially for those focusing more on prints and quality. Thank you.
The Benchy is alright. The phara is printed with sandable pla. I believed I printed too fast with 0.1 layer height. I think for printer this size is meant to print something big.
And maybe you can make a video from the chiron sound befor you install the tmc2208 and after you install the tmc2208.😁 the different of the volume will be interesting 😄👌
Tak's Tech 3D but the base is 65.1? Where do you support? my furniture is 65 I will have to buy another one. At first I think to put tmc 2208, and some more fan have you tried the 2208? in the mega his vref is 0.85 for me. TFYA
So what do you think about the printer so far? Really trying not to buy it :P. Would be great if you could list what's wrong with the printer beyond that terrible noise it makes :P.
Actually, if you do own an i3 mega and doesn't mind the size, i wouldn't recommend you to buy this. If this is your first big printer and you want to print some flexible filament, i think it's a good choice. It will depend on your needs.
I currently have 2x Original Prusa MK2S and I'm looking for something with bigger print volume. I was certain to purchase CR-10S and then came across Chiron so... really don't know now :P.
If you do think ultrabase is a way to go, I'll suggest you to take this one. However, CR-10S has more community supports if you take this into your concerns. I think both of them do have pros and cons. If not to picky on the print quality details of Chiron, I am paying a little bit cheaper price for a bigger CR-10S with a 24V system, Ultrabase and titan extruder. That'll conclude my thoughts when it comes to CR-10S and Chiron.
Thanks, I will be using it in my company so print quality is definitely something I pay attention to but at the same time I know it's a budget printer and don't expect anything super duper smooth. Just smooth enough not to complain :). Could you post online pictures of your recent prints on Chron? Would love to see where you got in terms of calibration after 3 weeks of using the printer :).
Here is the images of my prints, just read my comments below the image. I hope this will help you out. imgur.com/a/aKwTaAv The nexi tech spiral speakers were patched and painted.!
Interesting, I would expect a Trigorilla pro board. 3:48 Why does the nozzle need to be cooled? Strange that they put the X-limit switch on the carriage. Noise warning at 5:28. Stepping down from 24V to 12V just takes a resistor. Your wife is a bit annoying :P
Thank You. Your generosity, time, & knowledge are very appreciative. Please accept my extreme gratitude as a job done well. thank you again.
Going to buy one of these but I'll use 12 volt silent fans and TMC2208's. I'll just use LM2896'S to step down the 24 volt fans to 12 volt.
That's a good choice. Keep that in mind you need to fit that lm2896 into the case and keep things cool.
The electronics box looks like there's plenty of room plus even if I hook up all of the fans to a single LM2596 it should be good, the amp draw of 12 volt fans comparatively small.You can also buy fairly small LM2596 's with a 3 amp rating, the one I'm looking to get is only 65x35
Thank you. does this board support second extruder? so that we could do two color print?
I'm guessing you never put a second extruder on it did you?
really good video, are you still using the Chiron in 2024/5?
Recently mine stops printing after 5+hrs only during long prints, im printing floorplans. So the nozzle temp goes to 0 and so does the bed temp go to 0. ive seen conflicting videos showing sd card failure but ive replaced that with a quality 128gb san disk, the printer stays on and thinks its still printing on the display although the head is no longer moving! i press pause or stop and it get stuck forever on "sending command". Would be very greatful for your insight. Im going to try to print another large print with the bed heating off as i just did a small one over 5 hrs without the bed and no problem. this is quite strange...ive even seen online people saying it could be the model but how when its printing small and med versions of the floorplan? Thanks
Chris
Singapore :)
Thanks for the video! Waiting on this printer now. I would like a video with installing OctoPrint/OctoPi in this machine. With the seperate power supplies could you power on and off the printer with OctoPrint? Also are the tmc2208 just plug and play on the trigorrila board?
I just installed TMC2208 drivers to the X and Y. They go right in, used the old drivers as reference for the correct orientation and switch the wire direction. I pull the plastic receptacle out and then flip and plug in the wires without it.
Thank you for the great video.
Good video.I have a question I want to use meanwell power supply 750 watt 24v.I saw on your video there is small cable goes to V+ to V+ .Do you know what is the reason ?
Hello Tak!
I have a few questions regarding the power supply unit (smaller/black one to be exact).
Could you maybe tell me what's the related output (power, volts and amps)?
It would mean a world to me.
Thank you in advance,
Evan.
Thank you for the video this totally saved me from flipping over my Chiron and opening it up again just to check the fan connection. By the way, do you happen to know the fan size for the power supply?
Hi :)
I have a Chiron and I tried 2 sets of TMC2208 - one without setup #StealthChop and one set with setup #SpreadCycle. In both cases I didn't set the speed in half as in the other RUclips videos +remember to read the connections on the chip vs the connections on the board - in my case I had to mount them upside down when I swapped the A4988 drivers :)
NOW:
I couldn't set the Z axes with tmc2208 because it needs to have some firmware setup for homing (one of the motors doesn’t react to the limit sensor) So I let only the X and Y axis with tmc2208 - but after a small test print I'm kind of thinking I'll go back to A4988 chips on all drivers till someone from Anycubic will make a firmware for them
The difference in noise is huge and to silent the printer I also swapped the power supply's fan and the motherboard's fan with 2 Noctua 60mm fans - using a dc-dc xl4005 converter from 24-12v connected to the main power supply and 2 fan connectors that came with Noctua 40mm
If the printer could run with the tmc2208 and noctua fans - it would make it a super good printer
For bed leveling I had to setup it manually with the printer turned off - after that I used the Probe - and I had to cancel the test print several times and setup manual oversetting to all points (different settings with every nozzle)
I tried 0.1mm - 0.2mm - 0.25mm - 0.3mm - 0.4mm nozzles.
0.25mm was the best I could setup till know - because I couldn’t find the perfect extrusion settings even for 0.25mm = after 5mm height of printing the extruder somehow stops extruding... I have no idea way…
But with 0.4mm and setting from Chiron’s manual guide it works almost perfect.
Best results in my case - with PLA and 0.25mm are: 6mm height retraction - 60mm/s retraction - 185grade hot end - G28 X0; end script
With 0.4mm I only tried 195grades at hot end because I didn’t do the tower test to temperature yet and only printed some test models :)
Anyone had any experience with the TMC2208? Or can anyone help me with them? 10q
I saved the V-settings for each original driver - 0.85/0.97/0.94/0.80/0.91 and I tried with 1.2 on the Z axis - thinking it needs more power to run both the sensors and the motors - yet the 4th driver #0.80 one doesn’t seem to be used for anything - but I have no idea 😊
if using tmc2208s you have to reverse the wires in the connector at least the first 2 of each connector x/y . I reversed all 4 wires as many have been doing and it works great also set them to 1.20v
Useful video, thank you !
thanks
Hi Tak! Thank you for the great videos! Which setting do you use for the Timelap video in octoprint?
on z change, 0.6mm height
Question : do i undestand it correctly when I think the bed level sensor has to be manually connected to the machine for bed leveling, and has to be manually removed prior to printing ? The thing in the hotend case is a magnetic MOUNT for the actual probe which you have to remove prior to printing ? Kinda archaïc but well, it would work.
Indeed it works. All you need to do is to print the level_test.gcode provided by the sd card adjust the z-height during printing. That's it.
can this board be programmed with marlin
I wonder if the "extra power suppy box" (the black plastic thing which appears to be fed by the main 1000W PSU) is responsible for the power-resume function, a bit like on the U20. Did you test this feature on the machine ?
The extra power supply is for the trigorilla board. The main power supply is for the heated bed. That's what I see in here.
Trigorilla boards have no onboard capability for power-resume functionality afaik. There's no reason to have "something between the main PSU and the Trigorilla" from a standard electric side as these boards can do both 12 and 24V. That's why I don't think "it's just an extra power supply", that wouldn't make much sense. On the Alfawise U10, a similar "box inbetween" can be seen which is responsible for the power-resume functionality. I'm wondering what is in that box. :D Yeah I know, way too curious. :)
I busted my board currently. I’ll update them as soon as I get it fixed.
ouchouchouchouch. Erm ... how ?
Hi there and thanks for the video. How good is the is the autobed leveling and is there any option to change to manual bed leveling? thank you.
The auto bed leveling is awesome. All you need is probe the bed and change z height. You can do manual leveling too. Easy.
Tak's Tech 3D thank you
My biggest concern is will it have at least same print quality as CR-10? As someone pointed out previously, that benchy and Pharah print doesn't look really astonishing. Looking forward for more videos especially for those focusing more on prints and quality. Thank you.
The Benchy is alright. The phara is printed with sandable pla. I believed I printed too fast with 0.1 layer height. I think for printer this size is meant to print something big.
That's the part cooling fan more than anything else, don't know what the jerk settings are but they can be tweaked too.
Can you tell me the size of the fan in the control box so I can buy a 12volt silent - looks like a 6030?
I have 2 noctua fans: one 60mm fan for the control box and one 60mm fan for the power source - both are very noisy
hi sir after a month so what do you think for this printer is it worth? since the price almost like cr-10s
And maybe you can make a video from the chiron sound befor you install the tmc2208 and after you install the tmc2208.😁 the different of the volume will be interesting 😄👌
Sure, i'll do. Just received my tmc2208, making videos now.
Yea please, i like youre Videos about the Chiron!
some bad news. I blew up my trigorilla board! I just order a new board. I'll update my status later.
Ohh nooo how that? 😱
Did you forget to switch off the power supply whilst you were swapping the stepper drivers or did you forget to flip over the JST's?
Can you give me the depth dimensions where the printer sits? is to go buying the furniture
Carmelo Gómez the dimensions is 651mm x 612mm x 720. Don’t place it at home unless you did upgrades for the fan and step drivers.
Tak's Tech 3D but the base is 65.1? Where do you support? my furniture is 65 I will have to buy another one. At first I think to put tmc 2208, and some more fan have you tried the 2208? in the mega his vref is 0.85 for me. TFYA
Carmelo Gómez well, I ordered tmc2208. It will arrive on next week. I’ll definitely try the magic Vref of 0.85 when I get tmc2208 on my hand.
So what do you think about the printer so far? Really trying not to buy it :P. Would be great if you could list what's wrong with the printer beyond that terrible noise it makes :P.
Actually, if you do own an i3 mega and doesn't mind the size, i wouldn't recommend you to buy this. If this is your first big printer and you want to print some flexible filament, i think it's a good choice. It will depend on your needs.
I currently have 2x Original Prusa MK2S and I'm looking for something with bigger print volume. I was certain to purchase CR-10S and then came across Chiron so... really don't know now :P.
If you do think ultrabase is a way to go, I'll suggest you to take this one. However, CR-10S has more community supports if you take this into your concerns. I think both of them do have pros and cons. If not to picky on the print quality details of Chiron, I am paying a little bit cheaper price for a bigger CR-10S with a 24V system, Ultrabase and titan extruder. That'll conclude my thoughts when it comes to CR-10S and Chiron.
Thanks, I will be using it in my company so print quality is definitely something I pay attention to but at the same time I know it's a budget printer and don't expect anything super duper smooth. Just smooth enough not to complain :). Could you post online pictures of your recent prints on Chron? Would love to see where you got in terms of calibration after 3 weeks of using the printer :).
Here is the images of my prints, just read my comments below the image. I hope this will help you out.
imgur.com/a/aKwTaAv
The nexi tech spiral speakers were patched and painted.!
Interesting, I would expect a Trigorilla pro board. 3:48 Why does the nozzle need to be cooled? Strange that they put the X-limit switch on the carriage. Noise warning at 5:28. Stepping down from 24V to 12V just takes a resistor. Your wife is a bit annoying :P