Sorry guys I had to delete Anycubic Chiron Final Review video and re-upload it again. Video was stuck in 360p insted of 2160p (4k) even after 5 hours after finished processing. RUclips have some issues lately. I have saved all comments in txt file and I will post them in the new video so that everyone can copy-paste their comment again. I re-upload video again and it's 95% processed now and I will not publish it until all resolution be available. .......Update! Video is now live in 4k! For the record,1080p was available in just 15 minutes after processing and 4K after 50 minutes, so that was you-tube glitch that my first upload was stuck in 360p.
Awesome review! I really like how you took so much time to test out different models, materials, and settings. This is probably the most in - depth 3D printer review I have seen that is still coherent and focused. I have been struggling to decide my second 3D printer but this will for sure be it!
I just got a Chiron bidding, due to this review, through Anycubic's eBay Store; I got an amazing deal and it should be here in few days. Please do a modding video. My Anycubic Mega is still putting out great prints. When it comes to PLA I would compare it's print quality to my MK3. You put out the best most comprehensive and to the point 3D printer reviews. I am still stoke with the Keenovo mod on my CR-10S; your video made so simple.
I purchased this printer 2 weeks ago and I really love it. It printed really nice since the first time and the bed leveling is super easy to use. This is my third 3D printer, before I had a Tevo Tarantula and then a Tevo Tornado but they are not compared at all to this printer.
Thanks for this mate - just took the plunge as I found it on offer for £430, but was still a little nervous after the teething problems with the prototypes. I trust your reviews (I bought a Photon after seeing your review!) so you've put my mind at rest! Keep up the good work buddy!
I own a Chiron, purchased in 2021. Expect to do several upgrades to get any performance or reliability out of this machine. It was really cheap for such a huge build volume, but has many known issues. Some fairly serious like low grade/faulty wiring.
Great second review. Glad Anycubic listened and performed the updates. I just received my Chiron and am waiting for a few bits and pieces like the stepper motor dampers to arrive before I assemble it. The two Chiron groups are full of great advice - I will study both before I start printing.
Thank you! Yes I agree with you. It's nice that they listen and fix all issues. Awesome man! I hope that by now you assembly your Chiron and install stepper dampers. Btw, have you tried 3D printed leg dampers that I Remix from Thingiverse? Give them a try they work very nice.
Hey Cellenseres, what r u thinking about the printer? I see this review and I would like to buy it, but I see a lot of issues about this print on google.
@@andrefogagnoli hey André! I'm using this 3D Printer for quite a while now and didn't really have any problems with it. The only problems I had at the beginning where my lack of knowledge about 3d printing, but I figured out everything important pretty quickly.
Thanks to your review I’m buying it. I subscribed and looking forward for more video and more upgrades to the printer. This is going to be my first 3D printer ever.
I may get one of these. I absolutely love my Mega S, it has been an absolute workhorse. I would appreciate a larger build volume and auto leveling though
Chiron vs Predator vs CR-10 v2: My final question about chosing my first 3D printer...I know different types but same purpose; which has better printing quality and durability/reliability? Make comments please.
I bought this (my first FFF 3d printer) after watching this video - everything just works immediately - I am SO impressed. My mates are forever telling me about tapes and sprays and hoods and specific brands of filaments etc etc, but none of that seems to apply to this printer. Nothing has gone wrong for me so-far (after one benchy, and about a dozen engineering prints of all sorts).
@ Yep - super happy with everything. I'm churning out engineering models, experiments, and technical parts and it's basically a no-brainer. Design, slice, print... just works. Here's a 450mm per-blade high wind turbine experiment I did today: ruclips.net/video/_VYOE5AHHqA/видео.html and here's an underwater glider I also made: ruclips.net/video/yfEDSJ-jyXc/видео.html - both of these are really easy to make yourself using my "Airfoil Tools": ruclips.net/video/AAc8waXFbWQ/видео.html
Wow 24V! I could run this machine in my Land Cruiser :) I'm looking for a 3D for our mobile home...the Toyota :P This looks like the perfect device. Great video!
Out of all printers I have never had such a hard time getting the bed leveling correct. I've done all the techniques described even the 25 points advance setting. And the z axis kept on moving on me when I would home or would start a new print. What worked for me was autoleveling, then using the 4 adjustment springs. But still doesnt seem 100 percent.
It's a great printer. This was my second 3d printer purchase after a Geetech kit that didnt work and I gave up on. Few screws then it worked out of the box! Leveling is a manual process, but was made much easier as you could control the hotend via cura before. Its not working in the latest version but I'm on mac so that may be the issue? That said ive moved this printer 3 times and once checked never needed to adjust anything. Its always been bang on. Few things, the hot bed cable catches on the frame, which i thick has been resolved in later models but watch for that. Only other advice I can give is unless you really need to printed stuff over 200mm or don't get this, I thought id buy it as it would give me the chance to. But 3d printing takes so F'ing long that ive never done anything above 150mm so wish id have bought a much more compact, and cheaper machine. Beginner mistakes aside, if you wanna print big its a great, cost effective option!
OK. I'm torn between this and a CR-10S pro as my first 3d printer. I like the larger build volume on this, glass bed and e3d clone parts. Should I still be concerned about quality control and is the larger creality community worth it to you?
Nice video as usually ;) Just one thing, try to decrease you temp on TPU. With Flexismart TPU / TPE was using to high temps like 220/210 and got your effect on walls. Now i'm running perfectly with 190º. Give a try ;)
MrJoaoMsousa I'm glad you like it and thanks for suggestion I will give a try. I had nozzle clogs at 200c but that might be because of 2mm retraction distance. Efter I disabled retraction I got successful prints but I did not try to lower the temperature. I will now :)
@@maliksworld8467 It's pretty good. I have printed about 3 kg of filament with it so far. I won't say it was flawless because it is my first 3d printer. With that said, I am really satisfied with the results. Haven't had any major issues so far. I have printed a lot of tight fitting parts and holes to make brackets for automotive components. I printed ABS and ASA with it and had very little problems. Just got a kit with different nozzles and I am about to try them out. The 0.4mm nozzle doesn't make much sense to use on larger prints since it takes forever to print.
Is there any chance of you doing another video showing the complete bed levelling routine? I've seen at least one other video where it was necessary to mess about with the bed levelling screws even after having just done an auto-level - and I'm now feeling even more confused about exactly what I can expect from the current chiron,
Let me tell you how I easy level my Chiron from the first try: 1) First I run G code (Manual_Leveling) from SD card(printer adjust Z manual offset) 2) I took A4 paper and I level it manually just like any 3D printer. 3) I run G code (Auto_Leveling) from SD card(printer adjust Z offset for auto leveling) 4) Then I attached Probe I select probe from Level many. ( Printer took measurements over the heated bed) 4) I run G command from SD card called Level_test) and watch 5) When printer start printing level test I click on Z offset(all) and lower the Z offset by 1mm then I wait 10-15 sec for printer to apply new command(buffer time) and I did it again until nozzle was very close to the glass then I use 0.05mm distance(just one click on + or -) until I got nozzle to distance where I want it and I click OK. 6) At this point you are basically finished with leveling as the glass is by nature dead flat. But If you for example got warped bed in bad shipping or for some reason is not perfectly flat you just need to watch the printer printing (Level_test) G code a bit longer and as its circles around the glass. If you notice that z offset is to big or small on some place you just need to click on that place(closes to) on the level mash on the screen and then on + or - to adjust it by bit and just continue to watch. Have patience and don't press + or - Z offset like 5 times at once. Printer has buffer and it's not reacting on new Z offset right away. If you do like I wrote you don't need to pause level test print. Just be ready to click on the OFF button if you messed up something and you notice that nozzle is rubbing on ultra base. For the record I only level my Chiron once in this whole video review. 170+ hours printing and still no need to re-level it.
@@NexiTech Thanks for that last explanation. I've seen a lot of bed leveling videos on the Chiron. Most people having a lot of headaches trying to level it. This gives me a bit of confidence on buying a Chiron, everything else is really nice, especially that "magic" bed. I believe that's the feature that beats Creality. And now with this new Chiron frame this is just a no-brainer between the chiron and any other cr-series printer. But, that's just my opinion. I had a bad experience with an anycubic i3 mega but this Chiron seems to be a whole different level
I would like to see how well it does with something small and detailed such as a 28mm character. I would like to see how well it copes with such things as faces and fingers and perhaps sword tips.
That's kind of the problem with RUclips sponsored review, they often get some improve and well tuned printer that end paid customer don't get to enjoy... The Jgaurora A5 is for example praised by every RUclipsr but produce awful print.
you convinced me to buy one lol but im having a problem. When i hit print to usb (Connected to computer) it loses Z0 and scrapes against the heat bed so much it sanded off half of my .4 nozzel by the time it got to X0Y0. I did the auto level but doesnt drop enough to push the switch. please help me find answers
I bought one on black friday. auto leveling is a pain in the ass!!! takes a long time to set al the perimeters right for a beginner it would be hard becaus you should actually look and feel the layers... I printed a benchy and have layer banding.... I also use your feet dampeners....
Thanks for including Benchy print time and layer height. What was the infill & perimeters setting? Comparing apples to apples print speed is done way too little imho. Tevo Tornado using 0.2mm layer, 2 perimeters, 5% infill, 0.4mm nozzle i think fastest i did from cold was like 36mins
skaltura No problem. It was 20% infill, 4 top and 3 down layers. Well i didi not race here :) Obviously printer with less mass on heated bed will be faster and should produce better print quality but also Tevo Tornado has salmon skin issue and Chiron don't.
Tornado does not have salmon skin if you just tune it, crank the vref up to max and it's gone, looks very similar to your chiron prints, maybe even a little bit better quality :) Also later Tornados come with MKS Gen-L which gets rid of it as well. Tornado bed is large tempered glass panel with heat insulation, so quite a lot of mass there too, but really it comes to the steppers and how sturdy the frame is. CR-10 S5 is just awful in that regard, very hard to get a decent print out of stock S5 :( and the mass is immense. How many perimeters did you have, just 1?
Hey Nexi, Im strongly considering the Chiron, I would like to know advice on upgrades you recommend or should i consider another printer at this current time? Thank you
Dufisthenics Why not. I don't use ABS that much but PETG and TPU(flex) very often. Get some PETG and give a shot. It's easy to print just as PLA just lower the cooling fan to 50%.
@@NexiTech It's because I probably never knew best settings. I will try using the settings you listed in the video. I have some PetG and ABS that are collecting dust because I never could get them to print correctly. If you had cura profiles for each it would be awesome.
But I did post print profile for CURA and S3D in video description when I upload this video. It seems that nobody look in video description :D Go with PETG. ABS can be pain to print with all 3d printers that are not enclosed.
Great review! Just a question: If I want to purchase one in eBay, how do I know it's the updated version and not the first, crappy one? Is there any distinctive sign? TKS!!
Nexi, the predator is sould out everywhere, searched for a long time... Do you think the Chiron is good to buy now or should I try and wait for the predator to go back in stock? How long does anycubic take to restock printers?
Hello i'm new to this 3D print stuff and wanna ask a few questions hope you can help. 1. was the last octopus printed with the same machine ? because it's way smoother on the surface 2. Which features/properties in the setting panel that control the boldness of layer lines on a model 3. What should i do if i want to get rid of those layer lines after i'm done printing because i see the figurines (toys) surface is smooth like baby skin
Thank you for you reviews. I pulled the trigger on this today at it was on sale at AliExpress. Do you think you could upload a Cura profile for the .8 nozzle?
I just ordered updated version of this which appeared in 2019 with 2cm less on once side of the bed (as it comes with clips) I wonder what changed they made. Will make a video when I get it hopefully tomorrow or monday.
I almost bought the Chiron when it was in preorder but the price and ship dates kept changing so I went with a CR-10s. I would have enjoyed the Chiron but I would have waited, printerless, a couple months. I don't regret going Creality I like both machines. I printed a fixed (there's issues with how the skulls were joined to the pedestal) variant of the see/hear/speak no evil skull tower in StrongHero3D's Rainbow PLA. the-ayrie.net/blog-images04/skull-tower01.jpg Really nice review. Good to see the contrast between the production and preview models and it's nice to hear Anycubic listens to reviewers and customers. Thanks!
Nice review Bought a chiron to Bud also came with broken glass bed. Still waiting for a new printerbed. Question where did you insolate the printer bed with.
Hi André! You can use high temperature resistant cotton 3mm sheets and glue it with silicon. These sheets are best, no smell or anything and they can last forever:) I leave link in video description. Good luck with your Chiron. Take care Nexi
Hi, I'm new to 3D printing, and I got the Anicubic Chiron, you know why the bed doesn't heat, it only reaches 24 degrees. I raise the temperature and it does not heat. I did all the steps.
Hello, can you please comment on the power failure resume function? Do you have to add "G5" to the gcode manually to get the resume function to work? In my case, I just had a power failure and the resume function does not work at all. Thanks!
Have you done an anycubic cobra max ? Virtually the same but I don’t know what is different to justify the price difference. Can you help me with a decision ?
Thank you Michael, Sorry I can't confirm that as I never test runway protection on my printer and I sold my Chiron few weeks back for lacking space in my home.
Hi nexi, I'm trying to decide between the anycubic predator and the Chiron, they're both very similarly priced at the moment, do you have any thoughts on which one I should choose?
Max Klimeš They are both good 3D printers but very different style. Delta VS Cartesian. Very hard to debate between these two as they are very different from each other. I myself like alot Delta style 3D printers. Deltas are fast, very cool design and they have unique sound when they are printing. On other hand standard Cartesian 3D printers are usually more reliable in long turn as bearing wheels typically last longer then joins on delta arms. Some people use rubber band's between arm joints which in some cases prolongs the arm joint's life span. Other then that delta style 3D printers really rocks and I personally would choose Anycubic Predator over the Chiron.
Спасибо за подробное видео! А ты бы мог сделать видео как ты настроил стол, я так понимаю это проблема для этого принтера и если можно как ты поменял сопло на 0.8 и как ты настроил слайсер под него. Спасибо!!!
Can you make a video on what your optimal retraction settings were? Or just tell me i have been having trouble getting retraction right. Also what temp do you print pla at?
Catch fire? I don't see how that would be possible during normal use but on other hand knowing how people can be "different" only God knows what they could do with this machine.
Thanks for the extensive review! Best as always. I have the anycubic photon for minis and I want one PLA printer for terrain. Do you recommend this vs the creality cr 10 s or do you think that the ember will suffice?
Thank so much Andrew! I do my best to make quality videos for my subscribers. Photon? Cool! I love it! Now you need one more for big prints :) Well let me tell you. Cr10S is for long time my favorite big scale 3D printer. I love that printer! Its very simple design, easy to maintain and repair. I have my Cr10S for more then a year and I lost count how many hours I have printed on my Cr10S and it still going strong. Very reliable machine. On my Cr10S I have done few upgrades over time. I install 750W AC silicon heater with Solid state relay, stepper dampers, Ultrabase and simple spool adapter... it's still recommend Cr10S to everybody how search 3D printers up to 300mm size. On other hand Chiron is more moderate 3D printer. It has more features like: Touch Screen, Auto level, dual Z sensor switch, It has Ultrabase(No need for adhesive glue, easy to remove prints) Much bigger 400mm build volume, 24V setup with separate 1000W power-supply for heated bed up to 115C (Cr10S can go only up to 85C). Everything is build on the frame so there is no need for external control box, it comes with more advanced Motherboard with replaceable/ upgradable stepper drivers. In the box there is even spare compete hot end and best part Chiron is almost the same price as Cr10S. My vote goes to Anycubic Chiron. More bang for the buck ;)
Nexi Tech I’m looking at getting this printer OR the new Creality cr10s pro which has touch screen and very quiet according to the few reviews out there. What do you think about the cr10s pro?
And then there’s that Tronxy thing... x5sa... looks like Chiron works a lot more reliably than the Tronxy - better quality parts without the need for modifications. I’m changing my x5sa to use a direct extruder. I know there are all those other mods shown in another video but I wonder where it ends up for print quality vs. the Chiron. I guess that print area and price are similar.
Do you know what voltage the ANYCUBIC CHIRON hotend runs at? I want to upgrade mine to the volcano hotend but I don't know whether to get the 12v or 24v. Thanks!
Thank you! :) Here is the one that i use amzn.to/2Tlz2UB Keep in mind that I got to use 220V to 110v AC converter as I live in Sweden, Not sure where you live... BTW platform is puling only 4w :D
Hi. have you had any bed wheel issues on this new unit? During a long print for me, I can feel some vibration. When I looked underneath I can see that 3 of the 12 bed wheels are not turning at all.
10p6 10p6 Not at all. I adjust all wheels when I was assembling printer and that's it. Loose all heatbed whells (eccentric adjusters) and then when they are free try to turn/spin them with fingers.If they turn hard try take them out and re-check. They might be bad or they might be just over-thighted.
@@NexiTech Thanks for the feedback. Unfortunately I just found this out mid way through a very long print. So hopefully the print makes it. I really wish they would have used tube rails like on the Chiron like on the Prusia Mk13. Hmmm
I'm not sure what settings I need tweaked. Can you explain what other settings in CURA you are using to get these prints to come out smooth. Like wall county Top/Bottom layers Ironing Yes or No Infill Retraction Yes or No Or any other setting you messed with. Thank you.
Layer height 0.15mm Wall 3 Top 5-6 Bottom 3-4 Infil 20% Print speed 40-50mm/s Travel 100mm/s Retraction yes PLA 200C Heat-bed 55-60C Didn't use Ironing. Check your belts, adjust wheel bearings on all axis. Make sure that you don't have any loosen or too tight bearing wheels or belts. Level your printer nice and slow.
@@NexiTech I mean the prints where you used a .6mm layer height. Like the Groot. You listed most of the main settings. You printed that with a .6mm height? I tried doing a simple chest armor piece with a .6mm layer height. And similar setting as your groot. But my layer lines where not as smooth as yours.
@@NexiTech understood, I installed a .8mm nozzle. I put in my settings the same ones you used for groot. But I'm getting really large layer lines. It doesn't look smooth like yours.
I’m brand new to 3D printing and got my first printer 4 days ago and I am already hooked and looking for another. The one I have is a Voxelab Aquila X2 and it is a beast for the price. It’s been printing since I got it with absolutely no issues, but it’s just a little small. Wanting some a bit bigger and ran across this one on sale for $379. There’s so many out there though and I haven’t been able to find a good comparison between large volume printers so I’m struggling to determine which to get. Anyone here tried several and could recommend one I would greatly appreciate it.
Benchy the boat (the small) with 0.2 layer height took me almost 2hours to print. Any idea why it is so slow ? Used the same settings as you. Also with the chiron
I'm actually quite surprised and a bit disappointed you didn't touch on one of the most important characteristics of any printer, and that is the speed. You seem to be printing at super slow speeds (50mm/s), and it would be great to know how this printer performs at faster speeds, especially considering it uses a bowden extruder. I print at 200mm/s and 140mm/s on my Prusa MK3 (for infill and perimeters, respectively) and it's a direct drive, so I'd love to know how fast this printer can print reliably and what effect speed will have on prints.
Malek Ali Printer this large should not be use in such a high printing speed due to massive size and weight of the heatbed. That would put huge stress on components and for sure lower it's lifespan. Smaller printers with lower heated bed dimensions and heat-bed weight are in general faster and it will produce better print quality because of less moving mass. 140mm/s? I doubt that you can reach true 140mm/s print speed and still extrude and cool down the filament and get nice and even layers. Maybe if you have minimum layer time set to much higer number then 10s so the printer almost never reach that speed. That way you can still manage to get some print quality but no way that you can set minimum layer time to 0s and print 3D benchy at 140mm/s and still get good print quality. With 140mm/s you could print some huge object infill or objects without to much detail and sharp edges and corners and even for infill 140mm/s is too much...
@@NexiTech of course due to acceleration settings, a benchy will never reach the full print speed of 140mm/s. It only reaches 140mm/s on long straight lines. And I design a lot of functional parts with long straight lines. So I definitely reach the full 140mm/s quite often, and when acceleration settings are set properly I can achieve some amazing prints even at that speed,especislly when inside perimeters set to 140mm/s and outside perimeters set to 75mm/s. Because I have x/y acceleration set to 800, the print head will of course begin to slow down as it approaches a corner. I never print models and things I can't use. These speeds work for me but won't work for everyone. Of course the temperature would have to be high enough to extruder enough material fast enough. Also, I have my infill set to 200mm/s as well as "max speed" set to 200mm/s, and infill acceleration set to 2000, and when printing large objects at 215 degrees celcius, I definitely achieve a full 200mm/s on the infill (I can make a video!). For the surface finish I print at 100mm/s and get a flawless surface that almost looks injection molded. I've got my settings tuned like no tomorrow on all 3 of my printers :) even on my Robo3D I've upgraded and tuned it so well that I can achieve a full 140mm/s (again, on large prints without too much detail and a lot of long lines), well past the manufacturer specs.
I noticed V1.3 still have extrusion problems and sadly the autobed leveling is pretty much useless. you have to do it over and over again after it is shut down... I autoleveled it perfectly, started a print and it was grinding on the glass bed but the level test was damn perfect... and why the heck did they not included flow rate in the menu? so many features are missing in the menu... besides that I think its a nice printer for its money but I rather uprade it with non anycubic firmware. Also I noticed the glass sheet was glued to the heated bed... really a downside... I want to able to replace the sheet or turn around for a super smooth mirror like first layer.
Matt Eastman Yes, that's what Anycubic said. They have noted all issues that I have reported with my first Chiron video. They even leaved comment in my other video.
Thank you! You can get them here. goo.gl/6FvTir I have order these and test them. They are very good. You can print any filament with these nozzles as they are made from hardened steel.
Hello once again! Yesterday I was asking you about a specs of your printed models, but you reupload a video... It is really good that you state a parameters of a printing models. Thank you. But one wish - can you also state a weight of a model? It will really help to know as how much filament will be used for a printing.
Hello Nikita! Yes, sorry again about Re-upload. No problem, thank you to. Weight? Sure, Here it is i just measure with the digital scale. Hulk 450mm(Z) - 367g (Total with supports 895g) Skulls 200% scale - 352g Skulls 100% scale - 50g Black vase 450mm(Z) - 414g (0.8 nozzle) Groot 450mm(Z) - 616g ( total with supports 779g) - (0.8 nozzle) Fab365 Robot R 200% scale - 583G (With all accessories on 707g) - (0.8 nozzle) 3dbenchy 200% scale - 75g (0.8 nozzle) 3dbenchy 200% scale - 72g 3dbenchy 100% scale - 11g Vase(TPU) - 24g Octopus ABS - 30g Octopus PETG - 25g Octopus TPU - 20g
Sorry guys I had to delete Anycubic Chiron Final Review video and re-upload it again. Video was stuck in 360p insted of 2160p (4k) even after 5 hours after finished processing. RUclips have some issues lately.
I have saved all comments in txt file and I will post them in the new video so that everyone can copy-paste their comment again.
I re-upload video again and it's 95% processed now and I will not publish it until all resolution be available.
.......Update! Video is now live in 4k! For the record,1080p was available in just 15 minutes after processing and 4K after 50 minutes, so that was you-tube glitch that my first upload was stuck in 360p.
done.
Thanks, good idea to put the comments here! Done.
Would love to buy one of these printers. Do you think they have all the bugs fix?
So if you bought one ☝️ today! You can say all the bugs are worked out know?
You could just efit in editor and revert changes.. it would process to 4k
Awesome review! I really like how you took so much time to test out different models, materials, and settings. This is probably the most in - depth 3D printer review I have seen that is still coherent and focused. I have been struggling to decide my second 3D printer but this will for sure be it!
If someone is interested about printed models weights(0.8mm nozzle and stock ) check list below. I just measure them all with digital scale.
Hulk 450mm(Z) - 367g (Total with supports 895g)
3Skulls 200% scale - 352g
3Skulls 100% scale - 50g
Black vase 450mm(Z) - 414g (0.8 nozzle)
Groot 450mm(Z) - 616g ( total with supports 779g) - (0.8 nozzle)
Fab365 Robot R 200% scale - 583G (With all accessories on 707g) - (0.8 nozzle)
3dbenchy 200% scale - 75g (0.8 nozzle)
3dbenchy 200% scale - 72g
3dbenchy 100% scale - 11g
Vase(TPU) - 24g
Octopus ABS - 30g
Octopus PETG - 25g
Octopus TPU - 20g
I just got a Chiron bidding, due to this review, through Anycubic's eBay Store; I got an amazing deal and it should be here in few days. Please do a modding video. My Anycubic Mega is still putting out great prints. When it comes to PLA I would compare it's print quality to my MK3. You put out the best most comprehensive and to the point 3D printer reviews. I am still stoke with the Keenovo mod on my CR-10S; your video made so simple.
I purchased this printer 2 weeks ago and I really love it. It printed really nice since the first time and the bed leveling is super easy to use. This is my third 3D printer, before I had a Tevo Tarantula and then a Tevo Tornado but they are not compared at all to this printer.
Excellent work!
We need more companies like Anycubic. I want one now!
Thanks for releasing a 4k version!
Thank you so much Lucas! I agree with you! :)
Once again an excellent review! Well presented, well spoken and doesn't waste time with unnecessary chatter. Love it!
Thank you so much for your kind comment! Wish you a great day! 🤎
Thanks for this mate - just took the plunge as I found it on offer for £430, but was still a little nervous after the teething problems with the prototypes. I trust your reviews (I bought a Photon after seeing your review!) so you've put my mind at rest! Keep up the good work buddy!
I own a Chiron, purchased in 2021. Expect to do several upgrades to get any performance or reliability out of this machine. It was really cheap for such a huge build volume, but has many known issues. Some fairly serious like low grade/faulty wiring.
Dude, first time at your channel, awesome quality, attention to detail, top notch job. You got a Sub :)
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Great second review. Glad Anycubic listened and performed the updates. I just received my Chiron and am waiting for a few bits and pieces like the stepper motor dampers to arrive before I assemble it. The two Chiron groups are full of great advice - I will study both before I start printing.
reasonablebeing For some strange reason RUclips won't let me to replay to your comment. I try many times and without success. Let this one be a test.
Thank you! Yes I agree with you. It's nice that they listen and fix all issues. Awesome man! I hope that by now you assembly your Chiron and install stepper dampers. Btw, have you tried 3D printed leg dampers that I Remix from Thingiverse? Give them a try they work very nice.
Just bought this printer based on this review. Appreciate your work.
Best review style and detail I have seen. Covered the bases as far as I am concerned being a newbie.
This video is the reason I'm pulling the trigger on buying a Chiron.
Just ordered an Anycubic Chiron today.
I want to learn 3D Printing and I believe I learned stuff watching your Video. Thank you Nexi Tech
Hey Cellenseres, what r u thinking about the printer? I see this review and I would like to buy it, but I see a lot of issues about this print on google.
@@andrefogagnoli hey André! I'm using this 3D Printer for quite a while now and didn't really have any problems with it. The only problems I had at the beginning where my lack of knowledge about 3d printing, but I figured out everything important pretty quickly.
one of the most interesting videos , you get all the information
Thanks to your review I’m buying it. I subscribed and looking forward for more video and more upgrades to the printer. This is going to be my first 3D printer ever.
@Dave N that is awesome to hear that. I'm going to buy it from Aliexppes is cheaper then Amazon.
Do you like the printer?
@@Roar.k yes I do, 😊
@@jenovaizquierdo Nice i will buy one tho
@@Roar.k nice I hope you enjoy it.
Thanks for the update, nice to see Anycubic listened to the feedback and made improvements.
Enoch Root I agree. At first I was a bit disappointed with preview unit, but now with final version I can't recommend it enough.
i just ordered one. how can i tell if its a preview unit or a good one before running it?
The more complet tutorial on te internet. The better overall!
Congratulations & tks, broh.
Will go to shop this machine to my works.
God bless you.
I may get one of these. I absolutely love my Mega S, it has been an absolute workhorse. I would appreciate a larger build volume and auto leveling though
Cura now has a Chiron profile buit-in!
really good!
Nice! Thanks for the info.
Chiron vs Predator vs CR-10 v2: My final question about chosing my first 3D printer...I know different types but same purpose; which has better printing quality and durability/reliability? Make comments please.
I bought this (my first FFF 3d printer) after watching this video - everything just works immediately - I am SO impressed. My mates are forever telling me about tapes and sprays and hoods and specific brands of filaments etc etc, but none of that seems to apply to this printer. Nothing has gone wrong for me so-far (after one benchy, and about a dozen engineering prints of all sorts).
@@chrisdrake4692 How's it working after 4 months?
@ Yep - super happy with everything. I'm churning out engineering models, experiments, and technical parts and it's basically a no-brainer. Design, slice, print... just works. Here's a 450mm per-blade high wind turbine experiment I did today: ruclips.net/video/_VYOE5AHHqA/видео.html and here's an underwater glider I also made: ruclips.net/video/yfEDSJ-jyXc/видео.html - both of these are really easy to make yourself using my "Airfoil Tools": ruclips.net/video/AAc8waXFbWQ/видео.html
Wow 24V! I could run this machine in my Land Cruiser :) I'm looking for a 3D for our mobile home...the Toyota :P This looks like the perfect device. Great video!
Out of all printers I have never had such a hard time getting the bed leveling correct. I've done all the techniques described even the 25 points advance setting. And the z axis kept on moving on me when I would home or would start a new print. What worked for me was autoleveling, then using the 4 adjustment springs. But still doesnt seem 100 percent.
It's a great printer. This was my second 3d printer purchase after a Geetech kit that didnt work and I gave up on. Few screws then it worked out of the box!
Leveling is a manual process, but was made much easier as you could control the hotend via cura before. Its not working in the latest version but I'm on mac so that may be the issue?
That said ive moved this printer 3 times and once checked never needed to adjust anything. Its always been bang on.
Few things, the hot bed cable catches on the frame, which i thick has been resolved in later models but watch for that.
Only other advice I can give is unless you really need to printed stuff over 200mm or don't get this, I thought id buy it as it would give me the chance to. But 3d printing takes so F'ing long that ive never done anything above 150mm so wish id have bought a much more compact, and cheaper machine.
Beginner mistakes aside, if you wanna print big its a great, cost effective option!
OK. I'm torn between this and a CR-10S pro as my first 3d printer. I like the larger build volume on this, glass bed and e3d clone parts. Should I still be concerned about quality control and is the larger creality community worth it to you?
simplify has these start-end spots. most newer slicers don't have them so visible :)
Nice video as usually ;)
Just one thing, try to decrease you temp on TPU. With Flexismart TPU / TPE was using to high temps like 220/210 and got your effect on walls. Now i'm running perfectly with 190º. Give a try ;)
MrJoaoMsousa I'm glad you like it and thanks for suggestion I will give a try. I had nozzle clogs at 200c but that might be because of 2mm retraction distance. Efter I disabled retraction I got successful prints but I did not try to lower the temperature. I will now :)
Your videos are very well detailed and thorough. Thank you for helping me make a decision!
Thank you so much! Wish you all the best mate and thank you for stopping by.
Definately! I just ordered my Chiron. Anxious to try it out!
@@mamute290595 How is it?
@@maliksworld8467 It's pretty good. I have printed about 3 kg of filament with it so far. I won't say it was flawless because it is my first 3d printer. With that said, I am really satisfied with the results. Haven't had any major issues so far. I have printed a lot of tight fitting parts and holes to make brackets for automotive components. I printed ABS and ASA with it and had very little problems. Just got a kit with different nozzles and I am about to try them out. The 0.4mm nozzle doesn't make much sense to use on larger prints since it takes forever to print.
Plans to do / show any changes or mods to the Anycubic Chiron ?
Sounds like I've found my next printer.
Great update review, Looks like they listened !! Stay Awesome Next tech - happy Printing !
The Happy Extruder Thanks man! I agree. Good to see you man! Stay Awesome too! :)
Hi can you tell us or do a video on how to calibrate the E-Step on the Anycubic Chiron extruder?
Is there any chance of you doing another video showing the complete bed levelling routine? I've seen at least one other video where it was necessary to mess about with the bed levelling screws even after having just done an auto-level - and I'm now feeling even more confused about exactly what I can expect from the current chiron,
Would like to see that too
Let me tell you how I easy level my Chiron from the first try:
1) First I run G code (Manual_Leveling) from SD card(printer adjust Z manual offset)
2) I took A4 paper and I level it manually just like any 3D printer.
3) I run G code (Auto_Leveling) from SD card(printer adjust Z offset for auto leveling)
4) Then I attached Probe I select probe from Level many. ( Printer took measurements over the heated bed)
4) I run G command from SD card called Level_test) and watch
5) When printer start printing level test I click on Z offset(all) and lower the Z offset by 1mm then I wait 10-15 sec for printer to apply new command(buffer time) and I did it again until nozzle was very close to the glass then I use 0.05mm distance(just one click on + or -) until I got nozzle to distance where I want it and I click OK.
6) At this point you are basically finished with leveling as the glass is by nature dead flat.
But If you for example got warped bed in bad shipping or for some reason is not perfectly flat you just need to watch the printer printing (Level_test) G code a bit longer and as its circles around the glass. If you notice that z offset is to big or small on some place you just need to click on that place(closes to) on the level mash on the screen and then on + or - to adjust it by bit and just continue to watch. Have patience and don't press + or - Z offset like 5 times at once. Printer has buffer and it's not reacting on new Z offset right away.
If you do like I wrote you don't need to pause level test print.
Just be ready to click on the OFF button if you messed up something and you notice that nozzle is rubbing on ultra base.
For the record I only level my Chiron once in this whole video review. 170+ hours printing and still no need to re-level it.
@@NexiTech So basically what you're saying is that it DOESN'T have AUTO levelling after all No wonder nobody videos are showing it. :-/
@@NexiTech Thanks for that last explanation. I've seen a lot of bed leveling videos on the Chiron. Most people having a lot of headaches trying to level it. This gives me a bit of confidence on buying a Chiron, everything else is really nice, especially that "magic" bed. I believe that's the feature that beats Creality. And now with this new Chiron frame this is just a no-brainer between the chiron and any other cr-series printer. But, that's just my opinion. I had a bad experience with an anycubic i3 mega but this Chiron seems to be a whole different level
I would like to see how well it does with something small and detailed such as a 28mm character. I would like to see how well it copes with such things as faces and fingers and perhaps sword tips.
Thanks was waiting for this, the printer been in my cart for a while. I hope the ones sold by Banggood is this version and not an older one.
You welcome Cobus! I believe Banggood should have final version by know. My preview version was from July 2018.
That's kind of the problem with RUclips sponsored review, they often get some improve and well tuned printer that end paid customer don't get to enjoy...
The Jgaurora A5 is for example praised by every RUclipsr but produce awful print.
you convinced me to buy one lol but im having a problem. When i hit print to usb (Connected to computer) it loses Z0 and scrapes against the heat bed so much it sanded off half of my .4 nozzel by the time it got to X0Y0. I did the auto level but doesnt drop enough to push the switch. please help me find answers
I am getting one next week thank you for this review helps me a lot
Did you receive it? Did anycubic make any significant changes until then?
I bought one on black friday. auto leveling is a pain in the ass!!! takes a long time to set al the perimeters right for a beginner it would be hard becaus you should actually look and feel the layers... I printed a benchy and have layer banding.... I also use your feet dampeners....
Thanks for including Benchy print time and layer height. What was the infill & perimeters setting?
Comparing apples to apples print speed is done way too little imho. Tevo Tornado using 0.2mm layer, 2 perimeters, 5% infill, 0.4mm nozzle i think fastest i did from cold was like 36mins
skaltura No problem. It was 20% infill, 4 top and 3 down layers. Well i didi not race here :) Obviously printer with less mass on heated bed will be faster and should produce better print quality but also Tevo Tornado has salmon skin issue and Chiron don't.
Tornado does not have salmon skin if you just tune it, crank the vref up to max and it's gone, looks very similar to your chiron prints, maybe even a little bit better quality :) Also later Tornados come with MKS Gen-L which gets rid of it as well.
Tornado bed is large tempered glass panel with heat insulation, so quite a lot of mass there too, but really it comes to the steppers and how sturdy the frame is. CR-10 S5 is just awful in that regard, very hard to get a decent print out of stock S5 :( and the mass is immense.
How many perimeters did you have, just 1?
Which would you recommend? AnyCubic Chiron or the Creality CR-10? I have watched bot of your reviews and would like your thoughts.
This one, unles you are looking at Creality CR-10 MAX.
Just got this printer after your review. Please make some upgrades on it!!
Hey Nexi, Im strongly considering the Chiron, I would like to know advice on upgrades you recommend or should i consider another printer at this current time? Thank you
Great info, I have not tried ABS, PETG, or TPU on my Chiron. Watching your video makes me want to give it a try!
Dufisthenics Why not. I don't use ABS that much but PETG and TPU(flex) very often. Get some PETG and give a shot. It's easy to print just as PLA just lower the cooling fan to 50%.
@@NexiTech It's because I probably never knew best settings. I will try using the settings you listed in the video. I have some PetG and ABS that are collecting dust because I never could get them to print correctly. If you had cura profiles for each it would be awesome.
But I did post print profile for CURA and S3D in video description when I upload this video. It seems that nobody look in video description :D Go with PETG. ABS can be pain to print with all 3d printers that are not enclosed.
@@NexiTech Yes I saw that thanks. Have you had any of the common failures yet on your Chiron? My hot bed cable just broke yesterday.
@@Duf Broke?! How the two thick silicon wires can be broken?
Is the spring tension on the extruder mean't to be tight? Keep getting crunching and feeding problems regardless of tension.
Great review! Just a question: If I want to purchase one in eBay, how do I know it's the updated version and not the first, crappy one? Is there any distinctive sign? TKS!!
Hello Nexi. Thank you for all Reviews.
There are some many printers on the market.
Which should I buy?
Creality CR10S Pro or Anycubic Chiron?
Is the print quality better on Chiron?
Nice review . What would you choose Creality cr10 pro or Anycubic Chiron ?
Nexi, the predator is sould out everywhere, searched for a long time... Do you think the Chiron is good to buy now or should I try and wait for the predator to go back in stock? How long does anycubic take to restock printers?
Hello i'm new to this 3D print stuff and wanna ask a few questions hope you can help.
1. was the last octopus printed with the same machine ? because it's way smoother on the surface
2. Which features/properties in the setting panel that control the boldness of layer lines on a model
3. What should i do if i want to get rid of those layer lines after i'm done printing because i see the figurines (toys) surface is smooth like baby skin
You look like the lead singer of the Bloodhound Gang :)
Thank you for you reviews. I pulled the trigger on this today at it was on sale at AliExpress. Do you think you could upload a Cura profile for the .8 nozzle?
Another great review, and another printer making the choice of which printer to buy very difficult...
The chiron arrived a few hours ago. Thanks for the review again
I just ordered updated version of this which appeared in 2019 with 2cm less on once side of the bed (as it comes with clips) I wonder what changed they made. Will make a video when I get it hopefully tomorrow or monday.
I would also like a video with possible upgrades (for quality/ stability and less noise).
oldslann TMC 2130 stepper drivers will do it :)
I try to make video about it.
Dude, great review!
I almost bought the Chiron when it was in preorder but the price and ship dates kept changing so I went with a CR-10s. I would have enjoyed the Chiron but I would have waited, printerless, a couple months. I don't regret going Creality I like both machines.
I printed a fixed (there's issues with how the skulls were joined to the pedestal) variant of the see/hear/speak no evil skull tower in StrongHero3D's Rainbow PLA.
the-ayrie.net/blog-images04/skull-tower01.jpg
Really nice review. Good to see the contrast between the production and preview models and it's nice to hear Anycubic listens to reviewers and customers. Thanks!
Wow that looks great! Nice job.
Thanks!
I get an error when trying to use your profile on cura
I am trying to decide between this 3d printer and the Tronxy x5s 400 x 400. Wasnt sure if you have a recomendation on whitch one to get. Thank You!!
Nice review
Bought a chiron to Bud also came with broken glass bed.
Still waiting for a new printerbed.
Question where did you insolate the printer bed with.
André de Vries For some strange reason RUclips won't let me to replay to your comment. I try many times and without success. Let this one be a test.
Hi André! You can use high temperature resistant cotton 3mm sheets and glue it with silicon. These sheets are best, no smell or anything and they can last forever:) I leave link in video description.
Good luck with your Chiron.
Take care
Nexi
very nice natural review! in your opinion, do you prefer this chiron than cr-10s4?
Thank you mate! Yes I do prefer Chrion over Cr-10S4.
thank you for this
When u tried the 0.8mm nozzle, what did u change in Cura to make it work?
What did you do to prevent ABS from warping? And how on Earth did you make the layers stick and not delaminate???
Excellent review!
Thank you!
Anycubic Chiron, CR-10s or CR-10s pro? I honestly like the chiron and am hesitant about the cr10pro...anyone have any suggestions?
confirmed, will also switch from 10s pro to chiron
Hi, I'm new to 3D printing, and I got the Anicubic Chiron, you know why the bed doesn't heat, it only reaches 24 degrees. I raise the temperature and it does not heat. I did all the steps.
I just assembled my Chiron printer. I see it has a probe for leveling. Is manual leveling better?
Probe leveling is far more superior. Do it once and you don't need to level the printer for a long time.
Hello, can you please comment on the power failure resume function? Do you have to add "G5" to the gcode manually to get the resume function to work? In my case, I just had a power failure and the resume function does not work at all. Thanks!
Have you tried printing nylon? If so how did it handle it?
Have you done an anycubic cobra max ? Virtually the same but I don’t know what is different to justify the price difference.
Can you help me with a decision ?
Hi, maybe you can tel me what is the size of the TFT display. Nice Vid.
When you printed the PETG material, did you turn off the cooling fan? PETG doesn't stick well to my Chiron (cooling fan on). Thanks
I am getting some gaps in my walls on my larger prints. Ive only had my printer for a week. The chiron is my first printer. What can i do?
Hi Nexi, excellent review. Can you advise if the Chiron has thermal runaway protection enabled for either 1.2.7 or the latest firmware?
Thank you Michael, Sorry I can't confirm that as I never test runway protection on my printer and I sold my Chiron few weeks back for lacking space in my home.
Thanks for the reply. Do you still recommend this printer for an extra large format or is there something better out now with a 400x400 plate?
Michael Rogan Yes I do, I think that Chiron is very good large scale 3D printer and well worth of money.
@@NexiTech thank you based on your review and recommendations i will buy. Cheers.
so is this printer is better than the Tronxy X5SA you have ? are you going to put hotend on this and same upgraes you did to the Tronxy ?
Hi nexi,
I'm trying to decide between the anycubic predator and the Chiron, they're both very similarly priced at the moment, do you have any thoughts on which one I should choose?
Max Klimeš They are both good 3D printers but very different style. Delta VS Cartesian. Very hard to debate between these two as they are very different from each other.
I myself like alot Delta style 3D printers. Deltas are fast, very cool design and they have unique sound when they are printing.
On other hand standard Cartesian 3D printers are usually more reliable in long turn as bearing wheels typically last longer then joins on delta arms. Some people use rubber band's between arm joints which in some cases prolongs the arm joint's life span.
Other then that delta style 3D printers really rocks and I personally would choose Anycubic Predator over the Chiron.
@@NexiTech Okay, thank you, I'm going to buy the Predator. Keep up the great vids, you're probably the best 3DP youtuber of them all, love you!
Hello, an info. What would you recommend between Anycubic Chiron and the Delta predator for large projects?
Спасибо за подробное видео! А ты бы мог сделать видео как ты настроил стол, я так понимаю это проблема для этого принтера и если можно как ты поменял сопло на 0.8 и как ты настроил слайсер под него. Спасибо!!!
better this one anycubic chiron or creality cr-10 max?
Can you make a video on what your optimal retraction settings were? Or just tell me i have been having trouble getting retraction right. Also what temp do you print pla at?
PLA temps are listed on the spool of the PLA. Retraction settings will very by printer, even identical models. Try 7mm distance at 50mm speed.
Nice Big Printer!
Oh, and this printer can print in 50 microns resolution, right? Any comments on that?
I have heard the cables can catch on fire? Any suggestions how to prevent this?
Catch fire? I don't see how that would be possible during normal use but on other hand knowing how people can be "different" only God knows what they could do with this machine.
just gonna buy it but want to ask, how much power consumption in 1 hour print with normal heat bed 60˚?
wow, i like this printer so far so good.
Thanks for the extensive review! Best as always. I have the anycubic photon for minis and I want one PLA printer for terrain. Do you recommend this vs the creality cr 10 s or do you think that the ember will suffice?
Thank so much Andrew! I do my best to make quality videos for my subscribers. Photon? Cool! I love it! Now you need one more for big prints :) Well let me tell you. Cr10S is for long time my favorite big scale 3D printer. I love that printer! Its very simple design, easy to maintain and repair. I have my Cr10S for more then a year and I lost count how many hours I have printed on my Cr10S and it still going strong. Very reliable machine. On my Cr10S I have done few upgrades over time. I install 750W AC silicon heater with Solid state relay, stepper dampers, Ultrabase and simple spool adapter... it's still recommend Cr10S to everybody how search 3D printers up to 300mm size. On other hand Chiron is more moderate 3D printer. It has more features like: Touch Screen, Auto level, dual Z sensor switch, It has Ultrabase(No need for adhesive glue, easy to remove prints) Much bigger 400mm build volume, 24V setup with separate 1000W power-supply for heated bed up to 115C (Cr10S can go only up to 85C). Everything is build on the frame so there is no need for external control box, it comes with more advanced Motherboard with replaceable/ upgradable stepper drivers. In the box there is even spare compete hot end and best part Chiron is almost the same price as Cr10S.
My vote goes to Anycubic Chiron. More bang for the buck ;)
Nexi Tech I’m looking at getting this printer OR the new Creality cr10s pro which has touch screen and very quiet according to the few reviews out there. What do you think about the cr10s pro?
And then there’s that Tronxy thing... x5sa... looks like Chiron works a lot more reliably than the Tronxy - better quality parts without the need for modifications.
I’m changing my x5sa to use a direct extruder. I know there are all those other mods shown in another video but I wonder where it ends up for print quality vs. the Chiron. I guess that print area and price are similar.
Do you know what voltage the ANYCUBIC CHIRON hotend runs at? I want to upgrade mine to the volcano hotend but I don't know whether to get the 12v or 24v. Thanks!
Great review :-) Think my 2nd will be a Chiron (have a i3Mega).
PS: What kind rotary plate are you using? Been looking for one...
Thank you! :) Here is the one that i use amzn.to/2Tlz2UB Keep in mind that I got to use 220V to 110v AC converter as I live in Sweden, Not sure where you live... BTW platform is puling only 4w :D
Norway here ;-) @@NexiTech
Hi. have you had any bed wheel issues on this new unit? During a long print for me, I can feel some vibration. When I looked underneath I can see that 3 of the 12 bed wheels are not turning at all.
10p6 10p6 Not at all. I adjust all wheels when I was assembling printer and that's it. Loose all heatbed whells (eccentric adjusters) and then when they are free try to turn/spin them with fingers.If they turn hard try take them out and re-check. They might be bad or they might be just over-thighted.
@@NexiTech Thanks for the feedback. Unfortunately I just found this out mid way through a very long print. So hopefully the print makes it. I really wish they would have used tube rails like on the Chiron like on the Prusia Mk13. Hmmm
I'm not sure what settings I need tweaked. Can you explain what other settings in CURA you are using to get these prints to come out smooth.
Like wall county
Top/Bottom layers
Ironing Yes or No
Infill
Retraction Yes or No
Or any other setting you messed with.
Thank you.
Layer height 0.15mm
Wall 3
Top 5-6
Bottom 3-4
Infil 20%
Print speed 40-50mm/s
Travel 100mm/s
Retraction yes
PLA 200C
Heat-bed 55-60C
Didn't use Ironing.
Check your belts, adjust wheel bearings on all axis. Make sure that you don't have any loosen or too tight bearing wheels or belts. Level your printer nice and slow.
@@NexiTech I mean the prints where you used a .6mm layer height.
Like the Groot.
You listed most of the main settings. You printed that with a .6mm height?
I tried doing a simple chest armor piece with a .6mm layer height. And similar setting as your groot. But my layer lines where not as smooth as yours.
The groot print is printed with much larger nozzle then standard 0.4mm you can compare it like that.
@@NexiTech understood, I installed a .8mm nozzle.
I put in my settings the same ones you used for groot. But I'm getting really large layer lines. It doesn't look smooth like yours.
Great review!!!
Thank you
I’m brand new to 3D printing and got my first printer 4 days ago and I am already hooked and looking for another. The one I have is a Voxelab Aquila X2 and it is a beast for the price. It’s been printing since I got it with absolutely no issues, but it’s just a little small. Wanting some a bit bigger and ran across this one on sale for $379. There’s so many out there though and I haven’t been able to find a good comparison between large volume printers so I’m struggling to determine which to get. Anyone here tried several and could recommend one I would greatly appreciate it.
Benchy the boat (the small) with 0.2 layer height took me almost 2hours to print. Any idea why it is so slow ? Used the same settings as you. Also with the chiron
I'm actually quite surprised and a bit disappointed you didn't touch on one of the most important characteristics of any printer, and that is the speed. You seem to be printing at super slow speeds (50mm/s), and it would be great to know how this printer performs at faster speeds, especially considering it uses a bowden extruder. I print at 200mm/s and 140mm/s on my Prusa MK3 (for infill and perimeters, respectively) and it's a direct drive, so I'd love to know how fast this printer can print reliably and what effect speed will have on prints.
Malek Ali Printer this large should not be use in such a high printing speed due to massive size and weight of the heatbed. That would put huge stress on components and for sure lower it's lifespan. Smaller printers with lower heated bed dimensions and heat-bed weight are in general faster and it will produce better print quality because of less moving mass. 140mm/s? I doubt that you can reach true 140mm/s print speed and still extrude and cool down the filament and get nice and even layers. Maybe if you have minimum layer time set to much higer number then 10s so the printer almost never reach that speed. That way you can still manage to get some print quality but no way that you can set minimum layer time to 0s and print 3D benchy at 140mm/s and still get good print quality.
With 140mm/s you could print some huge object infill or objects without to much detail and sharp edges and corners and even for infill 140mm/s is too much...
@@NexiTech of course due to acceleration settings, a benchy will never reach the full print speed of 140mm/s. It only reaches 140mm/s on long straight lines. And I design a lot of functional parts with long straight lines. So I definitely reach the full 140mm/s quite often, and when acceleration settings are set properly I can achieve some amazing prints even at that speed,especislly when inside perimeters set to 140mm/s and outside perimeters set to 75mm/s. Because I have x/y acceleration set to 800, the print head will of course begin to slow down as it approaches a corner. I never print models and things I can't use. These speeds work for me but won't work for everyone. Of course the temperature would have to be high enough to extruder enough material fast enough. Also, I have my infill set to 200mm/s as well as "max speed" set to 200mm/s, and infill acceleration set to 2000, and when printing large objects at 215 degrees celcius, I definitely achieve a full 200mm/s on the infill (I can make a video!). For the surface finish I print at 100mm/s and get a flawless surface that almost looks injection molded. I've got my settings tuned like no tomorrow on all 3 of my printers :) even on my Robo3D I've upgraded and tuned it so well that I can achieve a full 140mm/s (again, on large prints without too much detail and a lot of long lines), well past the manufacturer specs.
I noticed V1.3 still have extrusion problems and sadly the autobed leveling is pretty much useless. you have to do it over and over again after it is shut down... I autoleveled it perfectly, started a print and it was grinding on the glass bed but the level test was damn perfect... and why the heck did they not included flow rate in the menu? so many features are missing in the menu... besides that I think its a nice printer for its money but I rather uprade it with non anycubic firmware. Also I noticed the glass sheet was glued to the heated bed... really a downside... I want to able to replace the sheet or turn around for a super smooth mirror like first layer.
Can you recomend 3d printer with big printing area?
So when we buy one will they becoming with the tweaks and upgrades you got?
Matt Eastman Yes, that's what Anycubic said. They have noted all issues that I have reported with my first Chiron video. They even leaved comment in my other video.
Besides size difference, what would you recommend, this or the Tevo Flash? I'm having a hard time making up my mind lol
Tevo flash with BL touch, TMC 2100 and dual Z :)
If I went for size, this one or Creality CR-10S? I almost have my mind made up lol
Hi Nexi, really informative video. Where can I buy those 8mm nozzles? thanks a lot :-)
Thank you! You can get them here. goo.gl/6FvTir
I have order these and test them. They are very good. You can print any filament with these nozzles as they are made from hardened steel.
Hello once again! Yesterday I was asking you about a specs of your printed models, but you reupload a video... It is really good that you state a parameters of a printing models. Thank you. But one wish - can you also state a weight of a model? It will really help to know as how much filament will be used for a printing.
Hello Nikita! Yes, sorry again about Re-upload. No problem, thank you to. Weight? Sure, Here it is i just measure with the digital scale.
Hulk 450mm(Z) - 367g (Total with supports 895g)
Skulls 200% scale - 352g
Skulls 100% scale - 50g
Black vase 450mm(Z) - 414g (0.8 nozzle)
Groot 450mm(Z) - 616g ( total with supports 779g) - (0.8 nozzle)
Fab365 Robot R 200% scale - 583G (With all accessories on 707g) - (0.8 nozzle)
3dbenchy 200% scale - 75g (0.8 nozzle)
3dbenchy 200% scale - 72g
3dbenchy 100% scale - 11g
Vase(TPU) - 24g
Octopus ABS - 30g
Octopus PETG - 25g
Octopus TPU - 20g
@@NexiTech Many thaks!!! It is great and helpful!