I completely dissessembled mine out of the box and ferrelled all the power leads amd every connection was redone and wire management for everything was done and cross my fingers but 3 years later and i have only had to change nozzels twice my longest print was 92 hours long and almost 2 kg lol I think staying on top of going through all the rushed production product shortcomings are inherent with chinese anything so going through the equipment has helped allot but i am going to try prusa slicer for sure that print you have was so silky smooth i need that in my life
@@ZeppelinGraphics I didn't change anything from the default settings and nothing on the firmware of the printer. I just selected cr10 in Prusa and left the printer in it's factory firmware. There has been no conflicts and everything runs great. Now can it be further fine tuned? I'm sure it can but for a fast and easy fix that make it just seem to work great this is all i did
@@thebasicCreator thanks for your reply. I thought i'd got the things working again, but I'm back to TO sensor errors. I've got new cabling coming so hopefully I'll get it working!
@@thebasicCreator Well, here I am a month later. The replacement of the hot end did not solve the problem, and the issues seemed to be getting worse over time. I contacted Anycubic support and they told me to replace the hotend, check things etc... I ran through the gambit, nothing worked. Eventually I got an email from Anycubic saying that the Chiron was no longer supported, they no longer have parts for it and that I should purchased a new printer. I'm not even kidding, they literally told me to just buy another printer... Well... Shit...
Also, it started stopping after a certain height, just like yours was. It's like it saw this video and got a new idea of how to screw with me. I need something with the big build-plate, but I don't think I'll be buying a Kobra Max from Anycubic. Not after this experience. I'm quite sad. Any suggestions as to another big plate printer?
Great video. I’m new to 3d printing. Just purchased the Anycubic Chiron. From what I’ve read and seen, the head temperature and bead temperature are very important and In watching your video, I see a ceiling fan going at pretty high speed which is probably constantly changing the temperature of your 3d printer. Just wondering if that may have been causing the stops with your previous unit. Looks like you have another 3d printer enclosed in a vinyl cover. Anyway, great looking prints.
the stops were random and for no reason The screen would be unresponsive and all I could do was shut it off and on to reset it again. Most times with any PLA I print the fan does not have enough to effect them but I would shut it off if doing PET-G.
Going to try out Prusia slicer. I've got to get this working as soon as possible. I just replaced the hotend, nozzle, bowden tube, and extruder. Came home from a crap day to one of the worst prints I've ever had.
it's starting to look as though there is no standard to this printer, that everyone seems to have different issues or similar but can't be resolved in the same ways. I know I replaced the connection boards for the communication cable tot eh hot end as well, not sure if that was the ticket but one of the parts they sent me.
ps. preheat, then add some Dawn dish soap to a scrubber sponge. Go over the bed in small, concentric circles. Wipe it down with paper towel. Best Ultrabase tip ever.
@@madeofevil667 sorry I have been using Orca for almost all my other printers and since I bought the Neptune 4 max I haven't need to use the Chiron for a while now. However I know when I need a nice super flat large print it may still be the best option. If I get the chance to play around with it and find a suitable set up in Orca i will let you know
working with the people from anycubic, they sent me replacement parts until the problem was remedied. The idea was that the wires going to the printer hot end were being stressed and could have created some sort of connection issue. Replaced the connections and the wire, plus took the mechanical snake the wire was tucked into and just ran it up to a loose zip tie for now so there is no strain on the connections, the problem then went away
it's just the default print file for 0.16mm optimal at 4mm nozzle for Creality printer CR10S4 on Prusa slicer and the bed size se to 390/390 to be safe from the edges. I never messed with any other settings. So if you download Prusa slicer, go add printer, add the CR10S4 and just make sure the size of the bed is correct and your done. I just did a time laps vid and the arms for the cell phone holder I made were actually made on this printer because they were long and I printed them in PETG too, turned out great.
I completely dissessembled mine out of the box and ferrelled all the power leads amd every connection was redone and wire management for everything was done and cross my fingers but 3 years later and i have only had to change nozzels twice my longest print was 92 hours long and almost 2 kg lol I think staying on top of going through all the rushed production product shortcomings are inherent with chinese anything so going through the equipment has helped allot but i am going to try prusa slicer for sure that print you have was so silky smooth i need that in my life
that's awesome. thanks
Can you briefly state what you did to fix the printer?
replaced wiring, and connections, took out the mechanical housing for the communication wire and using creality cr10 s4 settings
Creality cr10 s4 adjust the print area to match and it works great
HI, Can I ask what you chose for the firmware type when choosing the CR10 s4 in Prusa slicer?
@@ZeppelinGraphics I didn't change anything from the default settings and nothing on the firmware of the printer. I just selected cr10 in Prusa and left the printer in it's factory firmware. There has been no conflicts and everything runs great. Now can it be further fine tuned? I'm sure it can but for a fast and easy fix that make it just seem to work great this is all i did
@@thebasicCreator thanks for your reply. I thought i'd got the things working again, but I'm back to TO sensor errors. I've got new cabling coming so hopefully I'll get it working!
@@ZeppelinGraphics good luck.
@@thebasicCreator thanks!
Holy shit! I am having so many damn it wasn't stopping, but i got nothing but shit prints. I'm gonna try what you just said.
I know the frustration, I hope it works for you.
@@thebasicCreator I’ve got a new hot end on the way so when I finally get that I’ll let you know how it goes.
@@originalSPECTER awesome
@@thebasicCreator Well, here I am a month later. The replacement of the hot end did not solve the problem, and the issues seemed to be getting worse over time. I contacted Anycubic support and they told me to replace the hotend, check things etc... I ran through the gambit, nothing worked. Eventually I got an email from Anycubic saying that the Chiron was no longer supported, they no longer have parts for it and that I should purchased a new printer. I'm not even kidding, they literally told me to just buy another printer...
Well... Shit...
Also, it started stopping after a certain height, just like yours was. It's like it saw this video and got a new idea of how to screw with me. I need something with the big build-plate, but I don't think I'll be buying a Kobra Max from Anycubic. Not after this experience. I'm quite sad. Any suggestions as to another big plate printer?
Great video. I’m new to 3d printing. Just purchased the Anycubic Chiron. From what I’ve read and seen, the head temperature and bead temperature are very important and In watching your video, I see a ceiling fan going at pretty high speed which is probably constantly changing the temperature of your 3d printer. Just wondering if that may have been causing the stops with your previous unit. Looks like you have another 3d printer enclosed in a vinyl cover. Anyway, great looking prints.
the stops were random and for no reason The screen would be unresponsive and all I could do was shut it off and on to reset it again. Most times with any PLA I print the fan does not have enough to effect them but I would shut it off if doing PET-G.
Going to try out Prusia slicer. I've got to get this working as soon as possible. I just replaced the hotend, nozzle, bowden tube, and extruder. Came home from a crap day to one of the worst prints I've ever had.
it's starting to look as though there is no standard to this printer, that everyone seems to have different issues or similar but can't be resolved in the same ways. I know I replaced the connection boards for the communication cable tot eh hot end as well, not sure if that was the ticket but one of the parts they sent me.
Sent someone from a local group to your video. Maybe you'd share your config with them.
sure
2:06 ... don't touch it, ever (unless you want to lose adhesion)
ps. preheat, then add some Dawn dish soap to a scrubber sponge. Go over the bed in small, concentric circles. Wipe it down with paper towel. Best Ultrabase tip ever.
if you really want it to stick on this printer, use masking tape
So you use Prusia Slicer instead of cura? My printer print with bad quality, I'm thinking to updrage the extruder.
yes, and now more often I'm using OrcaSlicer
@@thebasicCreator what settings do you use in orca? I just got one and have been dealing with AWFUL prints.
@@thebasicCreator In Orca Slicer there is no Creality S4, which option did you choose?
@@madeofevil667 sorry I have been using Orca for almost all my other printers and since I bought the Neptune 4 max I haven't need to use the Chiron for a while now. However I know when I need a nice super flat large print it may still be the best option. If I get the chance to play around with it and find a suitable set up in Orca i will let you know
How did you fix the problem of the chairon stoping the printing?
working with the people from anycubic, they sent me replacement parts until the problem was remedied. The idea was that the wires going to the printer hot end were being stressed and could have created some sort of connection issue. Replaced the connections and the wire, plus took the mechanical snake the wire was tucked into and just ran it up to a loose zip tie for now so there is no strain on the connections, the problem then went away
Loosening the cable to make it more at a 90 degree angle. Here we replaced all the cables to ensure that printing stops never happen again.
@@mariokjunior its a great printer when you get it working well
please share your profiles
it's just the default print file for 0.16mm optimal at 4mm nozzle for Creality printer CR10S4 on Prusa slicer and the bed size se to 390/390 to be safe from the edges. I never messed with any other settings. So if you download Prusa slicer, go add printer, add the CR10S4 and just make sure the size of the bed is correct and your done. I just did a time laps vid and the arms for the cell phone holder I made were actually made on this printer because they were long and I printed them in PETG too, turned out great.