I'm 56. i started surfing at 32 as a traveling surfer living in the midwest. Feel lucky to have started surfing late in life. It's become my fountain of youth. I'm ripped and surf better than the 20 year olds. So happy i started late in life. I don't take it for granted. No grumpy old surfer guy syndrome here. i'm a 56 year old grom more stoked than anybody. Age is just a number guys.
A 56 year old 😂stoked grom “traveling Midwest surfer “ (and I’m RIPPED) Lucky I grew up on Point Dume and spent 15 years flying to Hawaii as an airline captain to boogie board
I’ve been surfing since I was a teen and some of my best surfing was when I was in my fifties. Now I’m 76 and unfortunately my ability to pop up is no longer there but if I could, I would still be surfing. God I miss it but it became too much of a physical challenge.
Imho the key is flexibility - big waves will even everything out. TBH efoil is going to be a leveller for all of us here. Foils are just so incredibly efficient at catching waves + and an efoil rides for a 20 year old the same as a 70 year old. A little expensive atm. but it's like Laird Hamilton said - foiling is the key to the future. Definitely go with a folding prop if you want to wave ride.
Hey @kurt6221, that's absolutely rad! 🤙🏄 Age is indeed just a number, and your stoke is contagious. Living proof that it's never too late to catch those waves and embrace the fountain of youth. Keep riding high and spreading those good vibes! 🌊😎 #ForeverStoked #SurfingJoy #AgelessSurfer
I'm 54 and surfed for 35 years, slowing down and eventually stopping about two years ago. For me it was the crowds here in south west England that tipped me over the edge. The water here is now so busy even on the crap days and attitudes in the water have got worse in direct proportion. I found it harder and harder and eventually impossible to get the joy out of it that I used to get. I still miss it from time to time and harbour vague ambitions of starting again, but whether my body and willpower will allow remains to be seen.
I’m approaching 51yrs old. Surfed since I was 11. The hardest part for me is the realization, that I’m not as good as I was. At this age most are prone to injury if your mind thinks your body can do what it used to. I still surf occasionally, but it’s much harder now. However, I feel blessed to have surfed thousands of waves that gave me so much frothy enjoyment. Godspeed to the old dogs.
I just turned 60 this summer, been surfing my whole life and lived next to the ocean and competed in most ocean sports. Surfing is my zen activity of them all. I can not relate to this "wanting to quit" attitude toward surfing. Everyday I learn something new or remember things forgotten about wave riding. Small waves or big ones, every day is still a new experience and I feel I improve and re-improve even though my body isn't as super agile as it was but thank goodness for my 50+ years of ocean sports my 60 year old body still reacts like a 30 year old [i've been told and felt myself]. Surfing is what keeps me fit physically as well and mentally and spiritually... this Looking to Give It Up makes no sense to me and makes me think that surfing may have been a "forced" activity that this person was never really connecting with but did it because it was maybe the "cool" thing to do back then. Of course location and moving away from typical surf areas has a big impact to that mindset to be fair but I would never want to blame it on surfing itself. Surfing is what you make of it and it's not for everyone, and it comes down to if it's actually imbedded into your DNA where the ocean draws you in no matter what the conditions are and your location.
Amen Sir! Yes started surfing at 14 and at 53 never stopped with the exception of brief periods out of the water with a rib and a back injury. Never did surgery for that Thank God and it taught me a ton. 2019 got in a G-Land trip and was "stuck" in Tahiti when they shut down the flights in 2020. Still surf once or twice a week but now cars are my obsession but everything Matt said definitely resonate with me 100%. The key is squats, back bridges, and pull-ups daily. Nothing works your cardio like surfing in cold water with a thick wetsuit- it will tell you in the first five min. where your fitness is: which is one of the many gifts surfing has given me along with many others but the #1 without a doubt is GRATITUDE
Totally agree. I am forty five and surfing since 29. If you want to quit is comfort zone and I respect but if you move you are alive if not…you can take slowly but never quit. SURF OR DIE.
Turning 59 next week and never surfed better, however due to a rib injury, while surfing, I’ve been out of the water for a couple of months now. Being 59 is no joke, injures take a lot longer to heal and mentally I feel depressed thinking that every day I don’t surf is a day that I’ve waisted. Quitting is not an option, at least not yet. Good day all and keep on riding.
@@gorgon4061 I too suffered a surf related rib injury (nose of a longboard at full speed) when I was 58. I was also out almost two months... couldn't wait to get back in the water tho.
If you see surfing as a sport, with tangible stats and metrics, then, you will eventually want to quit. If you see surfing as a spiritual connection to something greater than yourself, then, you never want to quit.
I'm 65 been surfing since I was 11. Surfing is still fun for me. I realize I'm not the guy I was in the water in my early years and can humble myself to accept it. I can't compete with the kids but I can travel and find uncrowded waves and surf at my pace. Long boarding is fun..... learning to be a kook again is reality.
I am close to 69, still ride short boards - started on mals in the 60's. I have never had a break from sufing and in many ways it has shaped my life. Kept me fit and near the ocean, enabled me to cope with stress, undoubtabley helped me to have a successful career and raise a beautiful family. Realised 30 years ago that my time as the 'alpha male' in the surf pack was coming to an end and that I would not be able to surf as well in the future as I had in the past - but I came to terms with it and I love the going for a surf more now than I ever had. I hope, like Filipe Pomer, to surf till 100. "Never give up! Never surrender"
Wow, what a bad attitude. I surf 3 times a week at age 69. I don't always want to go, but I'm almost always grateful I went. Good waves, bad waves, excellent exercise, amazing environment, much more. Thanks for making me appreciate my good attitude. For me, popping up is fine. It's the paddle out that's hard.
I do not miss it at all. Grew surfing the La Jolla reefs, and have traveled all over the world. The crowds and the aggressive kooks that have no etiquette have gotten out of control. It is like driving on the freeway. I just moved on to better things that gave me a better feeling. Surfed for 40 years.
@Darkhorsesavage, it's understandable how the dynamics of surfing, from crowded lineups to a lack of etiquette, can impact the experience. It's a testament to your rich 40-year surfing journey that has taken you across La Jolla reefs and around the world. Wishing you continued joy in the pursuits that bring you fulfillment! 🌊✨ #SurfLife #MovingOn #SurfPodcast
Thank you guys , this is so good. Im an almost 67 YO female. I used to surf. My son is 42 and has surfed since he was a young teen, me too. Broke my L shoulder almost 3 years ago, Had R shoulder rotator cuff repair last July, I still work in the hospital as an RN. He so wants me to keep surfing. I have a foam top longboard, we live in St. Aug., FL. We'll see what next summer brings!
@bethhayes1, your resilience is truly admirable! Despite the challenges, you've maintained your connection to surfing, embodying the spirit of perseverance. It's heartening to hear that your son's enthusiasm and your foam top longboard keep the surfing flame alive. Your determination and commitment to staying connected with the ocean, especially after overcoming shoulder injuries, is inspiring. Wishing you a fantastic and wave-filled summer next year! Keep riding those waves and enjoying the pure joy that surfing brings. 🌊🏄♀️ #SurfingResilience #NeverTooLateToSurf #SurfingJoy
I can relate. You get older, you get less waves and you slide down in the pecking order in the pack. Body aches, blah blah blah. After 45 years in the water I'm ok not going out anymore. I have 1000's of great waves in my life to remember.
@DEREKONMAUI, your perspective reflects the beautiful journey of a seasoned surfer. 🌊🏄♂️ It's incredible to hear about the countless waves and memories you've gathered over 45 years in the water. Your contentment with the memories speaks volumes about the richness of your surfing experience. Here's to a lifetime of great waves and the joy they've brought! 🤙 #SurfMemories #SurfingJourney
I am 56 years old. I started surfing ar 50. I am still a beginner and I workout alot to keep in shape. I have herniated disc, atrhitis in knees but as long as I can do what I love I will bare the pain. I think it all depends on what you get out of surfing. To much of one thing yes at one point it can become a punishment to you and to those around you. The trick is to have balance in life. Take care if your family be there all the time, work hard, have another hobby and play your sport/passion. Matt seems guilty for lossing that balance .
I'm 56, started surfing at 16. Fully into it for over 30 years. Epic times I would not have missed for anything. The enjoyment started to diminish when I was about 50. Since I've surfed less, I have enjoyed many experiences and visited many places I would not have done if I was still surfing. My relationships are better, my nature is more peaceful. I identified with Matt 100%. Life isn't better or worse not surfing, it's just different. There are things I miss about surfing, but a whole lot I don't miss. I've learned to dance, started a band, travelled to amazing places without surf, I have a decent job. I still absolutely love being in the sea. I don't ever see that changing. I'm also still skateboarding.
I’m 74 started surfing in the city when I was 12. Surfed heavy beach to Santa Cruz points to pt.arena always a joy and great workout. I was always hurting since my 20s but just surfed thru the pain. About 70yrs I couldn’t stand it anymore even standup killed me. Now I surf my lazyboy and realize even queens would be to much for me…but your mind never loses the desire…
It's all about perspective and your personal relationship toward surfing and your own mortality. I'm 46 and started around 10. I took 10 years off in the middle. Of course I'm not performing at the same level as my 20 year old self - in a strictly radical sense. But in many other ways I'm way better. I draw smarter lines, I rush less. Everyone's relationship to aging and surfing is their own, but I think his whole attitude very jaded. I live full-time in Mexico and I surf with 50, 60 and 70 year old guys regularly - they are riding shortboards and fishes and longboards, they are more fit than I have ever been and their stoke levels are through the roof! Warshaw's view is heavily skewed to a Socal vision and mindset - and that's fine but it's not the only perspective.
Absolutely not the only perspective. We are all different individuals. Matt was explaining what feels right to him. I think he knows other older guys who have similar situations. And I think he was just trying to say it's OK, do what's right for you. As you get older, time starts feeling like a much more valuable commodity. He still loves the ocean. There's so much more to our connections/love with the ocean than the act of standing on a moving wave.
I started surfing in 1970.I missed a lot of session time in the ensuing years with career duties,and raising kids,but never lost my stoke or edge,I always lived near unreal surf breaks. I'm now 66 and retired and I'm as surf stoked as ever,surf every day the waves are good. I ride a 6ft Rusty ,Chupacabra,and I'm very strong. Pura Vida desde Costa Rica 😎
@jordyzelaya1459, that's some serious stoke longevity! 🏄♂️ Starting in 1970 and still riding the waves with passion at 66 is truly inspiring. The Chupacabra and Costa Rican waves sound like a dream combo. Keep riding high on that Pura Vida wave! 🌊😎 #StokedForLife #SurfPassion #CostaRicaSurf
Matt is finding the emptiness that comes from pursing self. Having your entire identity in surfing. Leads to despair, emptiness. Only one person can you find truth in. Living water. Come and drink. Never thirst again
Having kids that you can share the joy of surfing with renews it as well. You don’t need to set the bar at charging 15 foot Indo…. Just joy of sharing it with them.
Matt sounds SO self-critical and describes multiple times how he was all about aggro hyper-competitiveness. He’s seems very defensive all through this sad video. Funny how at the end he admits moving to Seattle is what really crushed his surfing. Different goals though: I don’t attack waves, I connect with them. Same with people. Sharing stoke on a clean day and feeling that lift, flow, glide, and salty goodness are NEVER going to fade into the sunset until I literally cannot paddle out.
I'm 71 yrs old. Been surfing since 10 yrs old. Been on some awesome surf trips with friends and sons around the world. Have had numerous surgeries due to injuries associated with surfing and competitive tennis over the yrs. Watched my body deteriorate over last 10 yrs as result. Still surf weekly now on SUP board and catch 2-4 times as many waves as I would otherwise. Can't imagine giving it up. I just make sure the wave quality is worth the physical demand required each go-out at this point. Currently, if surf is good in am, I SUP surf. If not, I play Pickleball for 2-3 hrs. You've got to keep moving to stay healthy (physically and mentally) as you age. Keep on keeping-on!
@jimfisher5138, your journey is nothing short of incredible! Surfing since the age of 10, embarking on surf trips worldwide with friends and sons, and adapting to the changing demands on your body showcase a lifetime of dedication to the waves. It's remarkable how you've found ways to stay connected, now navigating the waters on a SUP board and prioritizing wave quality for the physical demands. Your commitment to keeping active, whether through SUP surfing or engaging in activities like Pickleball, is truly inspiring. Here's to many more wave-filled adventures and maintaining that vibrant spirit of adventure! 🌊🏄♂️ #SurfingLegacy #ActiveLifestyle #EternalSurfer
I haven’t snow skied in 10 years but still consider myself a skier. Same with surfing. Once a surfer always a surfer, even if it’s only in your mind 🤙🏼
I'm 64 I live in slo. Still surfing. I find just paddling a joy. Sometimes I do a thousand strokes. 10 sets of a hundred. Along with light works out and dog walks helps. And pain management hot tub an messages. My son surf at a very high level. As a kid he did the nssa. And win a final a morro bay. Love to watch him surf the heavy stuff. Second generation of stoke. I ride a long board and a monster shape quad 8'10 x25x4 thick. At 6'4" 230 is what works for me. Bought it to surf in my sixties. Sometimes everything comes together and I stick the drop. Pump along float a couple section. Life is good 👍
@ralphramirez1979, your love for surfing and the ocean is truly heartwarming! 🏄♂️ The joy you find in every paddle, relishing a thousand strokes and embracing the connection between body and water, is a beautiful testament to the enduring allure of surfing. It's inspiring to hear about your son's achievements in the waves, creating a second generation of stoke within your family. 🌊 The careful balance of pain management, hot tub sessions, and massages reflects your commitment to the sport's longevity. Riding a longboard and a specially crafted quad in your sixties showcases your dedication to finding the perfect wave. May each drop, pump, and float bring you immense joy and satisfaction. Life is, indeed, good when you're riding the waves! 🤙 #SurfingLove #GenerationOfStoke
I can relate. When you surf bad waves and miss time with your family it feels bad. It’s also an age thing. At 56 my tolerance for poor conditions is pretty low.
The bad waves thing is huge. I lived in Hawaii for most of may adult life. I moved to California in my 40's, and my surfing friends that were my age were surfing crappy spots just to avoid crowds. I couldn't surf with them because it just wasn't fun. My favorite spot is a fairly well known point break, but I couldn't get the boys to surf there with me because of the crowds. So I had to surf junk or go by myself.
I didn't give it up I stopped..I'm from San Clemente I'd been surfing since 1977 in Jr HS...I come from the Dino andino and Matt Archibald era..we were very creative and competitive surfers and our mission was to put SC on the map..and we did.. But as surfing grew bigger professionally in the 1990s and into 2000s it became more about pros logos and team riders as it was more about footage sponsors money and fame than a culture..the line ups are getting really crowded and the groms were becoming more and more aggressive and taking over lineup's.. In 2008 I began noticing I wasn't having as much fun..the explosion of paddle board and beginners along with aggressive pros was making surfing not fun for me..the OGs of surfing don't get their respect and of course there's only so many waves per session so everyone's hungry..I've been advocating for decades to light up major point breaks like trestles Malibu Rincon at night like park and recreation using solar...and by adding more jetties and artificial reefs to expand and add more breaks to keep up with the high demand in surfing..but that will only add to the popularity of surfing &will attract more people to the line ups.. Sigh So I decided to stop surfing..it's not worth all the effort anymore..plus it's much more expensive today to travel wetsuits board's pads fin systems leashes parking ect.. Dont get me wrong I love to watch this generation of surfers..they are taking it to so many different levels from tow in to rouge waves to finding hidden gems to Kelly slater wave ranch and wave machines..surfing is constantly evolving and Im a huge fan and supporter of our sport..but im just not syked on being in the line up anymore...
@@Ck-zk3we are you serious? I'll always be a surfer no matter in or out of The water..and I'm a phonominal surfer.. but I'm not into the 100+ crowd at local point breaks and every young pro getting video footage for Thier sponcer..I support WSL I'm a huge fan of pro surfing..and Ill be a wave groopie for life..
Thanks for the interview. It is nice to see how others handle sports and aging. I started surfing in my early teens and I'm still surfing at age 70, but now I wait for the right tide, the right wind, the right swell... Crowds kill me. I can no longer effectively compete for waves because both my paddling and popup are slow, but the stoke is still there when I do get a few waves. I appreciate individual waves a lot more now because they are so hard to come by. It really is harder to surf at this age. For example I might take off, see the wave forming ahead of me and I know what I have to do. Brain to body: pull up into this section. Body to brain: I'm working on it as fast as I can. Brain to body: Oh shit, you're too slow, turn, turn, turn. LOL Paddling and popping up are much harder than when I was younger even though I am in good shape for an old fart, and I can no longer, for example, make a hard bottom turn and then bang the lip. When I was younger I never imagined how much harder those 'simple' acts would become. I totally agree with Matt about it being a joy to just be in the water. I will surf, take out a boogie board, or just bodysurf and swim depending upon wave/wind/tide conditions and I still love to do anything that gets me into the water. The most fun I had in the water last summer was just swimming and bodysurfing a double overhead south swell. Getting a bit worked by some of the waves and dealing with that much water moving around just feels good. Once again, thanks for sharing your perspective.
@LongTimeITWorker, your heartfelt reflection on the evolving dynamics of surfing with age is truly appreciated. 🏄♂️ It's inspiring to hear how you've adapted your approach to the waves, waiting for the perfect conditions to maximize your stoke. Your description of the challenges and joys of surfing at 70 resonates deeply, illustrating the profound connection between body, mind, and ocean. 🌊 Despite the physical hurdles, your enduring passion for the water shines through, whether it's catching waves, bodyboarding, or simply immersing yourself in the ocean's embrace. Your gratitude for every wave and every moment in the water is a testament to the timeless allure of surfing. Keep riding the waves and embracing the magic of the ocean! 🤙 #SurfingJoys #AgelessSurfer
I started surfing at 14 . I am now 74 and still at it .Matt lists many reasons he no longer desires to surf . There are always lots of reasons . I do it for the grace rather than the challenge . So I do not do big waves . Chest high at best . I enjoy the glide and cutbacks and drop knee turns . Every time I get out of the water I feel good . I have modified my pop up to make it easier . I practice pop ups 20 times a day . Mostly I do it because I love the ocean . I also mix in lots of free diving and ocean paddling . Most surfers only enjoy surfing not all the other ways you can enjoy mother ocean . Too bad for them . The only thing that keeps me dry are the huge crowds since the pandemic . Too many people ruin the soul of surfing . I encourage more people to stop surfing . More waves for me .
For those that don’t know this gentleman (Matt Warshaw), he is an absolute legend of the sport and literally wrote the incredibly rich, beautiful and fascinating book The History of Surfing, which proudly sits in my living room. Matt, thanks for everything you’ve done - I’d love to meet you someday. At 50, with an 8 year old son, and a life long obsession with surfing and the ocean, I can relate to many of your points, and appreciate your honest and rather vulnerable perspective. We share similar histories - I grew up in LA (surfing Malibu every weekend from the age of 12 to 18) before moving north for college and then to San Francisco for many years. Many sessions at OB. I find myself in Laguna Beach these days, blessed for sure, yet rarely bother with the crowds and froth a few minutes south of me (Trestles for those that don’t know). Your move to Seattle reminds me of Gerry Lopez moving to Portland (and finding love for pow). Thank you for your incredible contributions to the Sport of Kings. Those of us that love surfing with all of our hearts - regardless of how often we get in the water these days - owe you a debt of gratitude.
A LOT of these guys making comments don’t know about Matt’s history and contribution All they have to do is Wikipedia his bio before making judgemental comments “he must have been forced into the sport , I surf better than the 30 year olds etc “ I guess Matt’s Encyclopedia of Surfing is now an online portal
@thejonathanrath, thank you for sharing your heartfelt connection to the legendary Matt Warshaw! 🏄♂️ It's amazing how Matt's work has touched the lives of surf enthusiasts like yourself. Your appreciation and understanding of the surfing journey, from Malibu to Laguna Beach, resonate deeply. Here's to the shared love for the ocean and the waves, and the gratitude we all feel for Matt's contributions to the "Sport of Kings." 🌊🙌 #SurfLegends #Gratitude #SurfingCommunity
53 Years Old. Lost 3 years from a move. Actually surfed my way back into shape. As I've gotten older, my expectation is to get a few rides and enjoy the day. Riding a little more foam, more carve and flow. That said I'm having more fun then when I was younger and expected to rip everthing.. Not to mention the fitness is awesome! No End in sight for me.
I once said to myself "I'm going to surf till I die". I thought I would never stop. But I did. Now I only reminisce about those totally awesome wonderful years. Thank you for sharing. It touched my heart.
Same with me and motorcycles. At a red light I told the wife “that’s it, I’m done.” Rode to the dealer and sold it back to him, walked home. 5 1/2 years ago at age 65, well over 50 years of riding. Don’t miss it.
@ryant651, your words resonate deeply, reflecting the bittersweet nostalgia that comes with a journey through the waves. The sentiment of surfing till the end is a beautiful commitment, and even in reminiscing about those incredible years, the connection to the surf remains alive. Thank you for sharing your heartfelt reflection. 🌊❤️ #SurfMemories #SurfTillIDie #SurfPodcast
Weird that I found this. I thought I was the only one. 45 years of surfing, every swell big or small, winter or summer completely obsessed. Detached during non surfing vacations because I might be missing waves, or worse others were getting them. Every moment was about surfing. I was the guy who got up early and checked the surf then harassed everyone until they dropped everything and came surfing. I think the turning point was a surfing trip with friends, something I had never done. After that trip I felt like it was over, I loved surfing, I was happy I had lived that way for 45 years but I was over it. I had always felt like I was moving up in the ranks and earning a place in the line up that was respected. Little by little I realized that the surf culture is so large today that kind of thing rarely happens anymore. The dream that I was earning a spot as one of the elders or would ever be considered that was a fantasy. Surfing had morphed from just an awesome personal experience to more of a way of proving status for me. It was no longer pure and I’m not exactly sure how or when it changed. I was always trying to improve and felt that status in the line up was linked to performance but with the damage done to joints and rotators from decades of abuse made improving beyond my late 40s something that was not gonna happen. I remember saying to myself youre not a failure for walking away. You just finished the story and wanted to put it down like a good book. Its such a relief to go to the beach and enjoy the beauty of the ocean without the torment of being without a board. No one who hasn’t lived like that their whole lives can understand the tremendous weight that is lifted from your shoulders when it is gone.
This. I’m 43 now, been surfing for 25 years and I’m experiencing same as you. I still surf every now and then, actually have a surf boat trip booked for next year… But I cannot stand the crowds and unpredictable weather anymore. Work, kids and life is just not allowing it right now. Once I accepted this, I felt so much relief. I enjoy playing with my kids on the beach now, I go fishing with them, bike rides, you name it. I’m looking forward to my surf trip next year and I’m hitting the gym to ensure I can get the most out of it, but if we score no waves I’ll be ok with it too, I’m so glad to have let go of that constant priority…
Great description. It's probably close to giving up an addiction, the sense of relief at not feeling the necessity of constantly surfing and checking surf is hard to describe. I remember many years ago speaking to older surfers and wondering how they could even think of giving up surfing, it seemed like giving up a limb or a vital organ - impossible. But years passed by with life very centred around surfing, but slowly the creping feeling of not meeting my own expectations, not getting into a wave as early as before, not having as much power, more prone to injury. Also the crowd changed, surfing used to be something that gave me almost a sense of euphoria, now it was a sense of frustration, driving into the car park at my local break seeing it full of cars and a lineup packed for a 3ft swell. The euphoria turned into anger and thoughts of aggression not fun. Then surfing with people without etiquette, not surfing to my mind capability. But I still couldn't drop it, I probably ended up detesting it, but it had been a part of my life for so long I felt that I couldn't stop. In the end I believe that God set me free. One day I prayed and said: God, if you want me to stop then let something happen today like an injury or damaged board and I'll stop surfing. I paddled out in some lovely barrelling over head surf, it was busy but enough sets to go round. After a couple of smaller waves, I took one and took the nose of the board to my face. The nose was cracked and my face was badly bruised but I didn't take that as an answer to my prayer as I figured it was pretty minor. I kept surfing until I was pretty tired, I decided to head in and caught a late wave and was thrown out in front. When I came to the surface my board was snapped in two. My prayer had been answered and I was free from surfing.
I'm 72 and have lived all of my adult life too far from the ocean. I will soon be moving close enough to give it one more try. I just want to capture one more early morning swell and create one more memory of the way it used to be. If I fail it won't bother me. But I want to try.
Sorry you think that way mate. I'm an Aussie who's surfed since I was 6 years old. I'm now 70, and because of knee pain, and a thigh injury I had to stop surfing, but it didn't last long as it depressed me not catching waves. So I swallowed my silly pride and grabbed a bodyboard and some finns and got back out there. It's been an amazing experience, and going surfing now gets me as excited as a young grommet. I'm literally catching more waves then ever and I'm having a ball. I think bodyboarding will keep me out there into my 80s, and longer, I hope.
I'm 72 now. I've had to move from Hawaii to the mainland inadvertantly just before the plandemic. When I left there was so many disrespectful PUNKS in the water that it was hard to enjoy surfing at my spots. HOWEVER ~ My new fascination with ocean sports is KITESURFING. Now I'm in North Carolina which sucks for waves but rocks for kitesurfing. I'm building carbon foils and slowly improving in this awesome sport. I see how God has saved the best for last and I can get my water time without hassle and it's all new and as good as or better than at first when I was young. Foiling and surfing in waves with the kite will be my pastime STOKE !!
It's good to hear Matt say these things. It makes me feel like I'm not alone. Surfing became frustrating in my 40's. As Matt said, I started to resent it. I wasn't getting the return on my lifetime investment in surfing. I didn't have the time to focus on it like I did before, and each session became more and more difficult (difficult as far as catching waves, and performing.) I wasn't in great shape anymore and crowds had gotten much bigger, and are made up of younger, more aggressive surfers. So I started surfing less and less, eventually moving to a landlocked state this year. I've been gone for three months. I thought I could live without it, but now I've reached that point where I'm actually sort of depressed without it. All I can think about is how to move back. I think the best advice I could give for someone beginning to feel frustrated with surfing, is to take a break. Take a month or two off if you have to, and don't be afraid to tailor your boards to your current performance level (and weight, lol.) Don't move away from the coast. We are who were are, and for some reason we need surfing.
Started surfing when I was 12....49 now. From FL., lived on Oahu for a bit, then traveled all over to surf, mtn bike, snowboard...even created a career that would allow me to have the freedom to get in the water when a swell hit(and travel often). Where I live in FL. something shifted in the last 5 or so years...way less waves, and when there are waves they're basically crap. I'd even paddle out on a "solid" hurricane swell and sit for 45 mins watching shifty lines pass by, often close outs, or the tide was wrong then the wind came up, and so on..to the point I was more aggravated leaving the water than when I paddled out. Then the skills start to drop due to lack of use/practice, and since I'm a performance minded person I'd get in my head and wonder if I could even stand up since I hadn't paddled out in two months...I wasn't having fun! Then the pandemic junk happened and the idea of international travel seemed less likely(and I still have zero interest in flying..began after my last trip to Bali). It's become a source of anxiety for me..I feel like I should still be excited to surf(and miss the stoke..miss being fried after a long session and happy to pass out at 8pm so I can get up early for more). I paddled out two days ago and I caught one wave but didn't get to my feet since I needed to get loose first by catching a couple slow ones...but no more waves came to me...more aggravation. I'm trying to take the "pressure" off and just not even try for a bit and see if maybe a year from now I'll be more interested to do the work. I ride my bikes daily so that's become my main source of release and still progressing and pushing. My life rule has become..."If it's not fun I don't do it!"
@bradb5541, your candid reflection on the challenges and emotional journey with surfing resonates deeply. 🏄♂️ Many surfers face the evolving dynamics of the sport, and your honesty about the frustration, changing physicality, and the impact of larger and more competitive crowds is relatable. It's evident that surfing holds a significant place in your heart, even as life circumstances led you away from the coast. The advice you offer, encouraging surfers to take a break and adapt their approach to align with their current circumstances, is valuable. Surfing indeed becomes a part of our identity, and the longing for it can be a powerful force. Your story adds to the diverse narratives within the surfing community, highlighting the complex relationship we forge with the waves. Wishing you clarity and fulfillment on your journey, whether it leads you back to the coast or unfolds in new and unexpected ways. 🌊🤙 #SurfingJourney #AdaptingWithTheTides #surfpodcast
I’m 59 now and retired. I’m presently getting back into the one activity in my life that I personally feel no other sport or recreation can replace and that’s surfing. I’m coming off a 5 year hiatus of doing what I used to be so passionate about. A lot of why I stepped away from it is because how I started to see more and more aggression and agitation in the water that would bring many surfers to extreme boiling point behavior. My personal opinion is that surf contests definitely didn’t do anything to squelch this. Surfing to me is along with the obvious attributes of great physical fitness, is more a cleansing and even a spiritual relationship with nature. We need to treat each other along with Mother Nature with respect. I’m on mission not only to return to the one thing that has brought so many fulfilling moments in my life but also to share kindness to my fellow man by becoming the person to spread positive energy because of the inner reflection that I receive through getting in touch with this beautiful activity we call surfing.
Me: 33 years surfing. And I quit 4 months ago. Best decision I ever made. Went back last weekend and didn't miss it at all. Tired of the same breaks and the BS behind, driving, packing, etc. I'm back to MTB full time where I don't have to rely on the weather. I can even MTB any time. Storm and on a sunny day. If I ever move to where the waves are good, then I resume it but Florida sucks.
I surfed with Matt in our high school days. We surfed with a lot of really good guys. The Levy brothers, Barella, Benevitas, Kaufman, Avery, Mobley, Jarvis, just to name a few. That era was a magical time as we segwayed from single fins to twin fins to the thruster in a relatively short period of time. After returning home from Australia after being there for nearly a year, where you get tubed more in one day than an entire year in the Southbay....I knew it was coming to an end for me. It wasn't just getting old... it was also the quality of the surf for me. I just wasn't interested anymore surfing in closed out conditions.
Before I watched this video I literally thought I was the only guy this was happening to . I was always a decent surfer and could hold my own in semi heavy waves and have surfed different gnarly reefs in the world. But 3 years ago as soon as I got to around 50 my surfing literally fell apart. Let me really paint this picture. I lost almost all my ability to pop up, get stance right , and surf with any kind of flow. If anyone saw me surf they would think that I just started not long ago. I am not even exaggerating 8n the least. Here is the kicker. I am and always have been in great shape. I look like I'm in my thirties. I work out and until my shoulder injury 5 months back was ripped and athletic. So why in the hell would I lose my abilities???!!!! My paddling is still strong ! Over the past 3 years out of disbelief I have spent thousands on getting boards made. I was thinking maybe I need to go up in volume. Fatter rails, etc. Nope!! Still terrible. This led to me over time resenting surfing. Asking myself why am I still doing this? If I can't surf well then I have a miserable time. It's not to impress anyone but me. And what is even more weird is some times out of the blue I will get a wave and have no problem and shred. I had a left a couple of swells ago where I cracked off 3 back hand snaps proper. Totally vertical on my first snap. It felt so darn good and was so smooth. Even got some props from dude in lineup. Then next day I paddle and I'm a total barn again. This really has me baffled and depressed even. I made so many sacrifices to live this lifestyle and now it's been taken away. There are many older guys who still surf well so I really don't know what to think. A part of me says that I should just accept that it's over but I am cursed with being very strong willed and I don't give up easily. Surf coaches say they can help but I don't see how. A coach? I am a life long surfer what in the hell are they going to teach me? I feel for you Matt but I am a little relieved that it's not just me. But unlike you I do not want it to slip away.
I feel you, brother. Do you think that, maybe, your expectations for your performance is too high and unrealistic? You know what you USED to be able to do, so you still have that expectation. It's kinda like what I experienced as a runner. As I got older, my running got slower and slower and slower. When I think back to how fast I USED to run in my younger days, I get discouraged because my running times now are just so much slower. When I was younger, I was the runner who was usually passing others. Nowadays, I am the one who's getting passed. It wasn't until I lowered my expectations and adopted more realistic expectations, did I start to enjoy running again. Today, I don't even wear a watch when running. I no longer time my runs nor do I track my distance. I simply run. I enjoy the scenery. I don't worry about time or distance. When I start to feel like I had enough, I just stop or I start walking. No expectations. I'm still getting exercise. I'm still staying fit.
I grew up on a surfboard. Severson took baby pics of me and was in surf movies. Watched Surf Guide become Surfer, wrote for Surfing and our own mag, did the Surfline thing, was ion teams, my own teams...fun, all was fun. I'm 65 now. Surfed with top surfers for a couple decades. The back side of it was still a stoke until it wasn't. I did all I wanted to do in surfing and moved on. I have many great memories . Others can enjoy it. There's other goals in life for me. Plus it's too cold where I am and danged if there aren't aches and pains that didn't exist so surfing is quite painful. I'm content with my memories and watching others now, laughing, and sharing the stoke. God bless all here.
Surfing is a great sport when you are young and dumb. The funnest sport in the world most times. Age and crowds for me ended it all. I still remember great days and many times almost drowning and I just laugh in my head. Thanks!
I've never surfed, have no idea why this showed up on my recommended. Don't know why I clicked on it. Thoroughly enjoyed it! Lots of wisdom from the guy on the right.
@mereskimade, we're stoked to hear that you enjoyed the content, even if you haven't surfed! 🏄♂️ Wisdom knows no bounds, and we're thrilled to have you tuning in. Whether you're a seasoned surfer or just dipping your toes in the surfing world, there's something for everyone. We hope to keep you entertained on this wave of wisdom! 🌊✨ #SurfWisdom #Entertainment #SurfPodcast
Six Zero here. Still surf 5'10 also Ten 0 log...& skate pools.. swim train & gym daily ... Mtbiking in the woods & coast paths.. cold water temps 12 degrees & dropping. Cheyne Horan once said "physical fitness is everything " Count your blessings 🙏❤ " argue your limitations .. & their yours to keep"
Lol not surfing for month, try living in South Florida 😂 I’ve gone months at a time without getting wet. No energy to drive a couple hours for a 2 foot mush. But at 50 I still loving it. Don’t care about my performance but the feeling of riding the wave. But I am a bodyboarder so that probably helps 😂
My friend Chuck is twenty years my senior. He’s 73 and he’s still going strong. He moved to Maui in 1971,a year after I was born. I’m all for the folks getting out of the water,because it’s a zoo out there between the surf school kooks, the wahines, and the recent lack of brutality doled out,which can be dangerous.if you are questioning whether you are even enjoying yourself,do us all a favor and quit surfing. There is only so many parking spaces and the lineups are full .’If you don’t surf don’t start’ ad campaign needs to be resurrected
I broke my neck surfing 25 years ago age 20, been a Quadriplegic since.... I think about surfing every day, I just went to Hawaii, im in El Salvador right now then Mexico I couldn't imagine giving up surfing by choice although when I see the crowds now i don't feel jealous
I am 68 and rode a board since 14 yo. As I got older and surfed less I found the popup impossible. I moved to bodyboarding. At least I could catch any wave and have fun every surf. 6 months ago I bought an 8' cruisy board. I cannot get to my feet!!!. Still considering practicing more so I get there but maybe just stick to bodyboarding. At least its fun.
I am 60 years old, surfed all my life, had both knees replaced just on 1 year ago, even though I have poor bend I persevered and started to train myself to surf again, it took a lot but I am up and surfing again riding a 6 foot Hypto Krypto through to a malibu if the surf is small, if I can still move I am never going to stop, too much fun to be missed
@@keithrit My experience has been the 2 factors that you must achieve post operation to ensure the best mobility is: 1. Achieve the best bend in your knees that you can get, the goal is 120 degrees, it's hard work, really hard work. 2. Get your knee joints straight post op. I personally found getting the knees straight reasonably achievable, the bend though is very hard, speak to your physio regarding this both prior to the op and post op, you have essentially 3 months to achieve the bend.or the scar tissue sets in, unfortunately I knew I was in trouble right from the start and I have essentially only achieved a relaxed bend of 90 degrees and a forced bend (measured by lunging the knee with great pain) of only around 110 degrees, If you are struggling post op speak to both your surgeon and physio, don't just let it be, make sure you are getting improvements as it will make all the difference to your life post op.
Better at what... I'm 57 & surfing for 44years If it doesn't give you joy or it's not fun anymore, then let it go. Isn't that the reason someone starts surfing, cause it's FUN. BTW great show
Amen Matt at 68 I'm with you the pop-up, sternum bone, stamina, and just a lot of work for little pay but I loved all 60 addicted years I was lucky enough to have ....never missed a swell. Power to you guys still goin in your golden years. JW
I’m 61 and ride 25 liters in a 5’5”. Ex California pro and NSSA collegiate champion .I barely catch anything competing with the largest kook invasion in our sports history made of sponge . I’m always pissed off and miss localism …….then I get that one wave and realize in 61 on a 5’5” still at it and I surf better than ever. Grateful would be the word .
Wow! I am sixty one and stopped FANATICAL surfing when I was around fifty, Now I rarely surf anymore because I just ran out of energy for the sport. I perfectly understand what Matt is saying. You simply just move on.
Going to be 61 in January. Surfing since 14. The best thing to keep surf fit is to just paddle as much as possible. I paddle in a pool as much as I can in between sessions which can be 2 months. Or paddle at the beach when it's flat. Push ups and pull ups are good, but nothing is better for paddling for those muscles. If you can't catch a wave, it's not worth it.
I never comment on RUclips, but I felt so compelled to here. Your story feels so similar to mine. Surf mats, my brother. It absolutely changed my life. From the most incredible feeling on a wave that no board has ever matched for me, to ease of transport. It’s like tapping into a new dimension on the wave. Magical.
Was fortunate to surf for almost 35 years. Beach life became expensive and living near it was not in my finances. Glad I had those times, great memories, epic days. Became an old desert rat now. Wide open spaces, no crowds, desert motorcycle riding offers me a close 2nd to surfing
I'm 60 years old surfed my whole life growing up in Huntington Beach,live now in San Diego. The young surfers make comments about me surfing a short board, until they see that I can do it. Never give up surfing, surfing is life.
I'm 52 now, been surfing since I was 13. Competed and was sponsored from about 18 through my early 30's, worked in the industry, traveled, and even briefly had an east coast based magazine about it in the late 90's (Rare Breed) ..... However, surfing wasn't the only thing I was into: I was also an avid skateboarder/snowboarder, and, even did some BMX which lead into an obsessive love of mountain biking over the past 10 years. Ended up living in Las Vegas in the middle of the desert for a couple years from Nov 2019 through last spring and didn't surf for 2 straight years and barely surfed a few times since then. I spent that time hiking, rock climbing, camping mountain biking, and off-roading and loving every minute of that! ... I ended up hating the process involved with surfing and got frustrated with all the variables it took to score just a few "ok" waves at my age now. And forget about getting in and out of a wetsuit in the winter to try to catch a couple cold waves! I felt like out of every 10 surf sessions MAYBE 3 of them were "good" a few were average, and the rest were just pure suckfests where I'd get out of the water more frustrated than before I paddled out. Now my pop-ups are so slow and terrible it makes surfing even that less enjoyable. My life used to revolve around surfing but now it's become just something I do if the waves are good and I have free time and energy. I don't hate surfing, I'll always love the feeling of a good wave, but I have other things in my life that give me the same feeling of stoke, so I don't really feel like there's any significant void missing.
In my home break I always hang out with the old guy's and I learned is not about when you can't make it anymore. It's more about how much happiness this brings to any undetermined age time in life. I don't compete anymore and my boys are now my new trip pals. So as I get older there's also certain freedom there's pains and age but I still have the groom inside now I'm older but the waves of the ocean are my happy place my Nirvana.
Looks like Matt is 62? I surfed until I was 68 and had a combination of things that occurred to allow me to stop surfing. One was I couldn't shake a couple of very nagging injuries that I just couldn't shake. I also had a bit of a miracle moment when I got to surf at Kelly's Surf Ranch which was an amazing surf trip for an older guy. Surfing that many perfect waves caused that injury to flair up and after that I found myself battling my friends and the amazing pandemic crowd of new surfers over the default 2 ft. crap surf and I was done. Then I simply woke up one day and thought, "Wait, I don't HAVE to surf any more." It was actually a huge relief as it had become a bit of a task and the fun had gone away. As was mentioned in the interview when one no longer identifies as a 'surfer' it can help to understand that I might never have really been a 'surfer' but simply someone who surfed, and now I was someone who simply no linger surfs it can help with that identity thing..
It's a tough thing when my mind wants to ride waves the same way I did 30-35 years ago but the consequences are different now. It's an adjustment , especially as the injuries have piled up over the years. I lived on Oahu for 15+ years and used to train and prepare for big waves and all that goes with that - now I train for having fun in waves of lesser consequence and to be okay with it. The mental aspect is as challenging as anything else. This is a good conversation to have.
@mikemccourt6225, your perspective on the evolving nature of surfing is insightful and resonates with many who've shared similar experiences. 🏄♂️ The realization that our minds often reminisce about the past while our bodies navigate the present, with its different set of consequences, is a profound aspect of the surfing journey. It's commendable how you've adapted your training to find joy in waves of lesser consequence, embracing the changes with resilience and a commitment to having fun. Surfing, beyond its physical demands, indeed presents an intricate mental challenge that evolves over time. Your openness to this conversation adds depth to the shared narrative of surfers navigating the various chapters of their wave-riding lives. 🌊🤙 #SurfingEvolution #AdaptAndEnjoy
@@SurfSplendor I appreciate the kind words and good content. Something I realized this past year was that what really eases this transition is being able to pass on to the kids the lessons learned from 50+ years of ocean experience surfing and bodysurfing, lifeguarding, free diving, etc. It's been quite a trip to let the younger kids in the family go through the lessons the ocean teaches us while being a point of safety and guidance for them - and still let them get the experience they'll need if they're going to continue with this thing we do. "What did we learn from that?" is what I always ask them and now I get to remember to ask myself that same question as the journey continues.
We had George. George surfed into his 70s. Every wave was a party wave in his eyes. Running people over being clueless. We all had a George story. But at the same time we admired the fact that he still paddles out. We miss George, he doesn’t paddle out anymore. Aloha George
Continuing to drag something out because you can’t let it go , especially something that is so heavily entrenched in identity and ego only leads to frustration. That’s why there’s so man angry old surfers out there. I feel they want to try and surf boards they could ride 20 years ago but the ego stops them trying boards more suited to them now , making the experience more easy and fun. Personally I’ve been loving soft tops, the good ones still allow for some performance but are super easy to paddle and catch waves and aren’t serious at all so it all becomes fun again.
Me 56, 2 hips and ripping. Zen. Pop up 70% done, 6.3" 37litters, still fast, i think. pls quit all of you. more waves for kids like us. until pop up is 10%. started at 6, so 50 ripping for now.
Mid-40s now surfing since I was 14, surfing ate me up for so many years loved it, lived it. Slowed down a little for a while at times, life got busy, home, family, business, projects, I forgot what surfing really good waves felt like. I didn't miss being scared in bigger surf and thought you know, maybe I'll only surf on the days when it's really good & easy, clean & head high. Then, the perfect twin fin came along. It ignited the stoke and the joy again. Like the tide, the stoke & the joy of surfing comes and goes with the ebb & flow of life. I am very grateful to enjoy such a beautiful pastime, the connection with nature, the banter at the beach. This guy seems to me like he was / is missing the gratitude. Peace out 🤙
Surfed fanatically till my mid forties.. then developed a health problem that stopped me..initially I went through grief trauma...but out the other side I realized thank "God " there are other things in life as important and rewarding...like simple nature walks and service to others..looking back on surfing is it a stunning beautiful experience but self gratification is not everything.
I am comforted to hear others going through similar emotions. Illness has sapped my energy, and my body just can't tolerate lower temps anymore. I feel like such a fake, loving it, but not doing it.
I love this interview and I relate 100% with what he said. I’m glad I came here to watch this video. I’m happy I’ve surfed so much in my life and went to all the amazing places and met all the incredible people surfing allowed me to. Surfing was my life and my identify. However, I’m also happy not doing that anymore at age of 41 with two kids. I’m happy with what I do with my time now. It’s still hard for some close people to accept I don’t wanna do that anymore. Thank you very much for this interview
really insightful. two people at two very different places in their lives. I love how Matt explains it's ok to embrace the ending or "slowing down" of something you loved. I mean it sounds depressing at first, but then he explained it in a way that made sense. Our lives are constantly evolving and he found a new path to fulfillment with his writing. neat, thanks.
My last surf on a standup board followed some time out of the water due to injury. It was the day after Midget died. I had difficulty paddling onto the waves. I'm now in my late 60's and am resigned to not (standup) surfing again, especially when I need to compete for waves in crowded surf against 17 year-olds. I can identify with that South African guy who in Endless Summer 1 was a keen standup board rider but when he reappeared in Endless Summer 2 he just occasionally bodyboarded. That's me.
"I don't know if I was as obsessed as you"... ha ha, ya think? The dude wrote the Encyclopedia of Surfing... For anyone who grew up surfing, started really young (like grade school), got really good, but are aging now and know you don't surf like you used to, I've got advice for you. One, don't bother with crap surf. Two, get fit, drink less, do yoga/exercise that keeps you fit (I mean light and strong, like near your HS weight), and stay away from really competitive spots. Then surf only when the waves are halfway decent. And finally travel a few times year to get really good waves. You'll still love it, you'll still get amazing sunsets or sunrises in the water. No you won't surf as well as you used to, but that shouldn't bother you if you stay away from the really competitive crowds/waves - you'll better than 95% everywhere else. If you were never any good, don't bother unless you're ok with sucking and not get many waves. Sorry - its tough sport to learn if you didn't start young.
Hey Matt. Surfed with you when we all surfed for Unity Surfboards. Team Unity. I was the super tall guy. Jim Balster (Big Jim} Those bring fond memories. Enjoy.
Started surfing when I was 8 years old. Hanging around Jim Lyman's shop for hours on end (asking "Whatcha doin' Mr. Lyman?" twenty times a day) was more than he could handle so he "sold" me an old balsa wood board that I learned on - got me out of his hair and on the beach and it's made all the difference in my life. Long time ago. Now, sitting on a body/boogie board makes me feel like I'm an hors d'oeuvre waiting for the gray suits to chomp down on. Just knowing as I sit on my board that my feet are dangling in the water looking like a tasty appetizer is freaky enough in the thrill department. Matt brings up some really relateable points for us geezers. Total knee replacement, rebuilt rotator cuff on my left shoulder and a stroke have severely diminished my abilities but - at 74 - not my love for the sport.
I completed the same arc. It almost seems dumb, now. More like an addict reflecting after getting sober. They say it's a healthy addiction, but the more you do, the more you have to do. The quality has to increase. It ruins relationships and your body suffers when you quit. More fun now as someone that considers myself a non-surfer. I'll bet Matt agrees when I say what pisses me off most is when people call to ask why I didn't show up for the swell. That to me is like offering meth to an addict.
When I hit 50 yrs old is when surfing shortboards starting getting difficult. I was in denial for a few years and then I started surfing mid lengths and longboards and realized that upping my wave count and not working so hard to catch small mushy waves as a middle aged man, took way that feeling of "diminished returns" he talks about when you're in denial and trying to catch waves on a shortie like you did 20 years ago. Look, just get real and admit that you need more foam and length. It's Ok to get older and need more volume.I still surf shorter boards when the conditions are really complementary but I am not above grabbing the 9'0 softie and just catching a lot of waves and having fun. I also weight train 5 days a week. at 59, I am having as much fun as ever surfing 2-3 days a week. Just drop the ego, grab the longer board and keep surfing. Stay in shape in between swells and you'll be able to keep surfing. If you stop surfing and stop exercising, then yeah, your age will definitely make you want to quit. Better him than me...
I lived to surf all of my life multiple times a week. Started at 13 on a surfboard in the Dana Point area 1973, one of those blowup mats before that, moved to Maui for 11 years and surfed all the islands, multiple seasons to Indonesia in the 80s (15 months total), came back to Dana Point in the 94’ and continued surfing every week, mostly Cottons, and other spots that got bigger faced waves. Then at 60-62 with a bit more free time, I felt I was still surfing good, would be out at the peak getting my share and feeling good for my age on the biggest day. Then almost 63 I tore my meniscus which pretty much put me out for nearly a year and a setback at age is harder to recover, and now all of a sudden I am having back issues now for almost a year. So happy to have gotten all the waves I did, it made me happy, and a made a lot of fellow surfing friends. When my back is not too bad once or twice a month I will go to SanO and try to get to my feet. But I have focused on other interest’s and hobbies. It’s all good. I’m trying to get my back in shape and my knee feels healed now, so who knows maybe I can get a bit better again. I have accepted that I don’t need super high quality large faced waves like I used to. I can appreciate SanO and just being out in the water with others.
I started having fitness and health issues at 40. But could still do 8 hours in the crowded surf of indonesia. At 50 i was really having mobility issues and started seeking empty line ups,but might have been at my peak in my ability to catch a wave and surf. At 54 i broke my leg surfing. Since then its been hell. Now 59 i am broken.stiff and unfit from health issues. But i live on a sailboat and i only surf empty waves in indonesia with zero audience. If i surf for 2 hours and catch 1 good wave its a awesome day.
Interesting. I can identify with the plateau Matt hit and the frustration when the progression stops- plus family and work life kinda getting in the way. That’s what happened to me with skating around my late 30’s, addicted to vert ever since I was a grom, but couldn’t get my adrenaline fix like I used too. The intensity of it all, what’s the next trick I can land, can I go bigger on this stalefish or whatever. Never thought I’d quit but I did. So surfing and snowboarding took over for the next decade, then tennis for the next. Stuff I could still progress with. Then work and family life sucks the time out of the time one gets to focus on these things and over time increasingly one ends up with the vicarious thrills of picking up the next publication on surfing from Matt to keep the stoke alive in some way. Now I’ve grown up, retired, divorced, moved back to the waves and have some personal time again, my kids got me out surfing again when they’re with me on school holidays and I’m finding the stoke again. It’s crazy crowded and I get 1 wave in 10 compared to all the younger fitter rubbermen around me but I get that one wave and remember the thrill of my youth, and for a moment in this complicated life, I’m a frothing teenager again. Thanks for this really interesting interview.
Started at 35, got some of my best waves after 60, 70 now and dawning it 5 mornings a week. Good food, good exercise, good stretches. Riding a big thruster now, worst case scenario I'll go back to my mini-tanker.
He deserves it. I've seen him surf Mavericks & big Ocean Beach/ SF over the years and I will tell you: we are not worthy. Then there's that thick book he wrote, and I can see a copy on my coffee table from where I'm typing this.
I'm 56. i started surfing at 32 as a traveling surfer living in the midwest. Feel lucky to have started surfing late in life. It's become my fountain of youth. I'm ripped and surf better than the 20 year olds. So happy i started late in life. I don't take it for granted. No grumpy old surfer guy syndrome here. i'm a 56 year old grom more stoked than anybody. Age is just a number guys.
A 56 year old 😂stoked grom “traveling Midwest surfer “ (and I’m RIPPED)
Lucky I grew up on Point Dume and spent 15 years flying to Hawaii as an airline captain to boogie board
You sound so full of yourself
I’ve been surfing since I was a teen and some of my best surfing was when I was in my fifties. Now I’m 76 and unfortunately my ability to pop up is no longer there but if I could, I would still be surfing. God I miss it but it became too much of a physical challenge.
Imho the key is flexibility - big waves will even everything out. TBH efoil is going to be a leveller for all of us here. Foils are just so incredibly efficient at catching waves + and an efoil rides for a 20 year old the same as a 70 year old. A little expensive atm. but it's like Laird Hamilton said - foiling is the key to the future. Definitely go with a folding prop if you want to wave ride.
Hey @kurt6221, that's absolutely rad! 🤙🏄 Age is indeed just a number, and your stoke is contagious. Living proof that it's never too late to catch those waves and embrace the fountain of youth. Keep riding high and spreading those good vibes! 🌊😎 #ForeverStoked #SurfingJoy #AgelessSurfer
I'm 54 and surfed for 35 years, slowing down and eventually stopping about two years ago. For me it was the crowds here in south west England that tipped me over the edge. The water here is now so busy even on the crap days and attitudes in the water have got worse in direct proportion. I found it harder and harder and eventually impossible to get the joy out of it that I used to get. I still miss it from time to time and harbour vague ambitions of starting again, but whether my body and willpower will allow remains to be seen.
at one point just being in the ocean became the most important part of surfing .
Don't stop surfing. This is hard to watch
I’m approaching 51yrs old. Surfed since I was 11. The hardest part for me is the realization, that I’m not as good as I was. At this age most are prone to injury if your mind thinks your body can do what it used to. I still surf occasionally, but it’s much harder now. However, I feel blessed to have surfed thousands of waves that gave me so much frothy enjoyment. Godspeed to the old dogs.
I bet you still surf great!
That’s a lie! I’m 58 and surf everyday and still surf 10’ Hanalei
@@kauaifishing1365 Why would he lie? It's his situation in life.
@@kauaifishing1365 Stoked for you! I hope to be doing the same at your age. Keep killing it!
@@ShauninParadise Thanks Shaun. Best wishes!
I just turned 60 this summer, been surfing my whole life and lived next to the ocean and competed in most ocean sports. Surfing is my zen activity of them all. I can not relate to this "wanting to quit" attitude toward surfing. Everyday I learn something new or remember things forgotten about wave riding. Small waves or big ones, every day is still a new experience and I feel I improve and re-improve even though my body isn't as super agile as it was but thank goodness for my 50+ years of ocean sports my 60 year old body still reacts like a 30 year old [i've been told and felt myself].
Surfing is what keeps me fit physically as well and mentally and spiritually... this Looking to Give It Up makes no sense to me and makes me think that surfing may have been a "forced" activity that this person was never really connecting with but did it because it was maybe the "cool" thing to do back then. Of course location and moving away from typical surf areas has a big impact to that mindset to be fair but I would never want to blame it on surfing itself. Surfing is what you make of it and it's not for everyone, and it comes down to if it's actually imbedded into your DNA where the ocean draws you in no matter what the conditions are and your location.
Amen Sir! Yes started surfing at 14 and at 53 never stopped with the exception of brief periods out of the water with a rib and a back injury. Never did surgery for that Thank God and it taught me a ton. 2019 got in a G-Land trip and was "stuck" in Tahiti when they shut down the flights in 2020. Still surf once or twice a week but now cars are my obsession but everything Matt said definitely resonate with me 100%. The key is squats, back bridges, and pull-ups daily. Nothing works your cardio like surfing in cold water with a thick wetsuit- it will tell you in the first five min. where your fitness is: which is one of the many gifts surfing has given me along with many others but the #1 without a doubt is GRATITUDE
Well said
Totally agree. I am forty five and surfing since 29. If you want to quit is comfort zone and I respect but if you move you are alive if not…you can take slowly but never quit. SURF OR DIE.
Turning 59 next week and never surfed better, however due to a rib injury, while surfing, I’ve been out of the water for a couple of months now. Being 59 is no joke, injures take a lot longer to heal and mentally I feel depressed thinking that every day I don’t surf is a day that I’ve waisted. Quitting is not an option, at least not yet. Good day all and keep on riding.
@@gorgon4061 I too suffered a surf related rib injury (nose of a longboard at full speed) when I was 58. I was also out almost two months... couldn't wait to get back in the water tho.
If you see surfing as a sport, with tangible stats and metrics, then, you will eventually want to quit. If you see surfing as a spiritual connection to something greater than yourself, then, you never want to quit.
I'm 65 been surfing since I was 11. Surfing is still fun for me. I realize I'm not the guy I was in the water in my early years and can humble myself to accept it. I can't compete with the kids but I can travel and find uncrowded waves and surf at my pace. Long boarding is fun..... learning to be a kook again is reality.
I am close to 69, still ride short boards - started on mals in the 60's. I have never had a break from sufing and in many ways it has shaped my life. Kept me fit and near the ocean, enabled me to cope with stress, undoubtabley helped me to have a successful career and raise a beautiful family. Realised 30 years ago that my time as the 'alpha male' in the surf pack was coming to an end and that I would not be able to surf as well in the future as I had in the past - but I came to terms with it and I love the going for a surf more now than I ever had. I hope, like Filipe Pomer, to surf till 100. "Never give up! Never surrender"
Never give up, never surrender, even if someone needs to throw me over the falls, I'm fukin going....
I am 51 and no way am I going to quit. Fuck that!
Way too young to quit! Yewww!
Wow, what a bad attitude. I surf 3 times a week at age 69. I don't always want to go, but I'm almost always grateful I went. Good waves, bad waves, excellent exercise, amazing environment, much more. Thanks for making me appreciate my good attitude.
For me, popping up is fine. It's the paddle out that's hard.
I do not miss it at all. Grew surfing the La Jolla reefs, and have traveled all over the world. The crowds and the aggressive kooks that have no etiquette have gotten out of control. It is like driving on the freeway. I just moved on to better things that gave me a better feeling. Surfed for 40 years.
@Darkhorsesavage, it's understandable how the dynamics of surfing, from crowded lineups to a lack of etiquette, can impact the experience. It's a testament to your rich 40-year surfing journey that has taken you across La Jolla reefs and around the world. Wishing you continued joy in the pursuits that bring you fulfillment! 🌊✨ #SurfLife #MovingOn #SurfPodcast
Thank you guys , this is so good. Im an almost 67 YO female. I used to surf. My son is 42 and has surfed since he was a young teen, me too. Broke my L shoulder almost 3 years ago, Had R shoulder rotator cuff repair last July, I still work in the hospital as an RN. He so wants me to keep surfing. I have a foam top longboard, we live in St. Aug., FL. We'll see what next summer brings!
@bethhayes1, your resilience is truly admirable! Despite the challenges, you've maintained your connection to surfing, embodying the spirit of perseverance. It's heartening to hear that your son's enthusiasm and your foam top longboard keep the surfing flame alive. Your determination and commitment to staying connected with the ocean, especially after overcoming shoulder injuries, is inspiring. Wishing you a fantastic and wave-filled summer next year! Keep riding those waves and enjoying the pure joy that surfing brings. 🌊🏄♀️ #SurfingResilience #NeverTooLateToSurf #SurfingJoy
I can relate. You get older, you get less waves and you slide down in the pecking order in the pack. Body aches, blah blah blah. After 45 years in the water I'm ok not going out anymore. I have 1000's of great waves in my life to remember.
@DEREKONMAUI, your perspective reflects the beautiful journey of a seasoned surfer. 🌊🏄♂️ It's incredible to hear about the countless waves and memories you've gathered over 45 years in the water. Your contentment with the memories speaks volumes about the richness of your surfing experience. Here's to a lifetime of great waves and the joy they've brought! 🤙 #SurfMemories #SurfingJourney
I am 56 years old. I started surfing ar 50. I am still a beginner and I workout alot to keep in shape. I have herniated disc, atrhitis in knees but as long as I can do what I love I will bare the pain. I think it all depends on what you get out of surfing. To much of one thing yes at one point it can become a punishment to you and to those around you. The trick is to have balance in life. Take care if your family be there all the time, work hard, have another hobby and play your sport/passion. Matt seems guilty for lossing that balance .
I'm 56, started surfing at 16. Fully into it for over 30 years. Epic times I would not have missed for anything. The enjoyment started to diminish when I was about 50. Since I've surfed less, I have enjoyed many experiences and visited many places I would not have done if I was still surfing. My relationships are better, my nature is more peaceful. I identified with Matt 100%. Life isn't better or worse not surfing, it's just different. There are things I miss about surfing, but a whole lot I don't miss. I've learned to dance, started a band, travelled to amazing places without surf, I have a decent job. I still absolutely love being in the sea. I don't ever see that changing. I'm also still skateboarding.
I’m 74 started surfing in the city when I was 12. Surfed heavy beach to Santa Cruz points to pt.arena always a joy and great workout.
I was always hurting since my 20s but just surfed thru the pain. About 70yrs I couldn’t stand it anymore even standup killed me.
Now I surf my lazyboy and realize even queens would be to much for me…but your mind never loses the desire…
It's all about perspective and your personal relationship toward surfing and your own mortality. I'm 46 and started around 10. I took 10 years off in the middle. Of course I'm not performing at the same level as my 20 year old self - in a strictly radical sense. But in many other ways I'm way better. I draw smarter lines, I rush less. Everyone's relationship to aging and surfing is their own, but I think his whole attitude very jaded. I live full-time in Mexico and I surf with 50, 60 and 70 year old guys regularly - they are riding shortboards and fishes and longboards, they are more fit than I have ever been and their stoke levels are through the roof! Warshaw's view is heavily skewed to a Socal vision and mindset - and that's fine but it's not the only perspective.
Excellent 😊
Absolutely not the only perspective. We are all different individuals. Matt was explaining what feels right to him. I think he knows other older guys who have similar situations. And I think he was just trying to say it's OK, do what's right for you. As you get older, time starts feeling like a much more valuable commodity. He still loves the ocean. There's so much more to our connections/love with the ocean than the act of standing on a moving wave.
My guess is he was pressured by his missus, after having a kid at 49...move to Seattle and concentrate on family/ career
Oh, he moved to Seattle? Glad to hear that at the end. Makes sense. Meanwhile, down at Trestles and San O . . . OLD GUYS RULE!!!
I started surfing in 1970.I missed a lot of session time in the ensuing years with career duties,and raising kids,but never lost my stoke or edge,I always lived near unreal surf breaks. I'm now 66 and retired and I'm as surf stoked as ever,surf every day the waves are good. I ride a 6ft Rusty ,Chupacabra,and I'm very strong. Pura Vida desde Costa Rica 😎
@jordyzelaya1459, that's some serious stoke longevity! 🏄♂️ Starting in 1970 and still riding the waves with passion at 66 is truly inspiring. The Chupacabra and Costa Rican waves sound like a dream combo. Keep riding high on that Pura Vida wave! 🌊😎 #StokedForLife #SurfPassion #CostaRicaSurf
Matt is finding the emptiness that comes from pursing self. Having your entire identity in surfing. Leads to despair, emptiness. Only one person can you find truth in. Living water. Come and drink. Never thirst again
Amen, surfing still at 56 but spend more time reading the Bible after surfing
Having kids that you can share the joy of surfing with renews it as well. You don’t need to set the bar at charging 15 foot Indo…. Just joy of sharing it with them.
TRUTH!!!!
Matt sounds SO self-critical and describes multiple times how he was all about aggro hyper-competitiveness. He’s seems very defensive all through this sad video. Funny how at the end he admits moving to Seattle is what really crushed his surfing. Different goals though: I don’t attack waves, I connect with them. Same with people. Sharing stoke on a clean day and feeling that lift, flow, glide, and salty goodness are NEVER going to fade into the sunset until I literally cannot paddle out.
I'm 71 yrs old. Been surfing since 10 yrs old. Been on some awesome surf trips with friends and sons around the world. Have had numerous surgeries due to injuries associated with surfing and competitive tennis over the yrs. Watched my body deteriorate over last 10 yrs as result. Still surf weekly now on SUP board and catch 2-4 times as many waves as I would otherwise. Can't imagine giving it up. I just make sure the wave quality is worth the physical demand required each go-out at this point. Currently, if surf is good in am, I SUP surf. If not, I play Pickleball for 2-3 hrs. You've got to keep moving to stay healthy (physically and mentally) as you age. Keep on keeping-on!
@jimfisher5138, your journey is nothing short of incredible! Surfing since the age of 10, embarking on surf trips worldwide with friends and sons, and adapting to the changing demands on your body showcase a lifetime of dedication to the waves. It's remarkable how you've found ways to stay connected, now navigating the waters on a SUP board and prioritizing wave quality for the physical demands. Your commitment to keeping active, whether through SUP surfing or engaging in activities like Pickleball, is truly inspiring. Here's to many more wave-filled adventures and maintaining that vibrant spirit of adventure! 🌊🏄♂️ #SurfingLegacy #ActiveLifestyle #EternalSurfer
I haven’t snow skied in 10 years but still consider myself a skier. Same with surfing. Once a surfer always a surfer, even if it’s only in your mind 🤙🏼
I'm 64 I live in slo. Still surfing.
I find just paddling a joy. Sometimes I do a thousand strokes. 10 sets of a hundred. Along with light works out and dog walks helps.
And pain management hot tub an messages.
My son surf at a very high level. As a kid he did the nssa.
And win a final a morro bay.
Love to watch him surf the heavy stuff. Second generation of stoke.
I ride a long board and a monster shape quad 8'10 x25x4 thick. At 6'4" 230 is what works for me.
Bought it to surf in my sixties.
Sometimes everything comes together and I stick the drop.
Pump along float a couple section.
Life is good 👍
@ralphramirez1979, your love for surfing and the ocean is truly heartwarming! 🏄♂️ The joy you find in every paddle, relishing a thousand strokes and embracing the connection between body and water, is a beautiful testament to the enduring allure of surfing. It's inspiring to hear about your son's achievements in the waves, creating a second generation of stoke within your family. 🌊 The careful balance of pain management, hot tub sessions, and massages reflects your commitment to the sport's longevity. Riding a longboard and a specially crafted quad in your sixties showcases your dedication to finding the perfect wave. May each drop, pump, and float bring you immense joy and satisfaction. Life is, indeed, good when you're riding the waves! 🤙 #SurfingLove #GenerationOfStoke
I can relate. When you surf bad waves and miss time with your family it feels bad. It’s also an age thing. At 56 my tolerance for poor conditions is pretty low.
The bad waves thing is huge. I lived in Hawaii for most of may adult life. I moved to California in my 40's, and my surfing friends that were my age were surfing crappy spots just to avoid crowds. I couldn't surf with them because it just wasn't fun. My favorite spot is a fairly well known point break, but I couldn't get the boys to surf there with me because of the crowds. So I had to surf junk or go by myself.
I agree. At 54 I find myself asking “is it worth it” a lot more than I used to.
Trust me, I'm spoiled rotten.
I didn't give it up I stopped..I'm from San Clemente I'd been surfing since 1977 in Jr HS...I come from the Dino andino and Matt Archibald era..we were very creative and competitive surfers and our mission was to put SC on the map..and we did..
But as surfing grew bigger professionally in the 1990s and into 2000s it became more about pros logos and team riders as it was more about footage sponsors money and fame than a culture..the line ups are getting really crowded and the groms were becoming more and more aggressive and taking over lineup's..
In 2008 I began noticing I wasn't having as much fun..the explosion of paddle board and beginners along with aggressive pros was making surfing not fun for me..the OGs of surfing don't get their respect and of course there's only so many waves per session so everyone's hungry..I've been advocating for decades to light up major point breaks like trestles Malibu Rincon at night like park and recreation using solar...and by adding more jetties and artificial reefs to expand and add more breaks to keep up with the high demand in surfing..but that will only add to the popularity of surfing &will attract more people to the line ups.. Sigh
So I decided to stop surfing..it's not worth all the effort anymore..plus it's much more expensive today to travel wetsuits board's pads fin systems leashes parking ect..
Dont get me wrong I love to watch this generation of surfers..they are taking it to so many different levels from tow in to rouge waves to finding hidden gems to Kelly slater wave ranch and wave machines..surfing is constantly evolving and Im a huge fan and supporter of our sport..but im just not syked on being in the line up anymore...
If you quit than you were never a surfer.
@@Ck-zk3we are you serious? I'll always be a surfer no matter in or out of The water..and I'm a phonominal surfer.. but I'm not into the 100+ crowd at local point breaks and every young pro getting video footage for Thier sponcer..I support WSL I'm a huge fan of pro surfing..and Ill be a wave groopie for life..
Thanks for the interview. It is nice to see how others handle sports and aging. I started surfing in my early teens and I'm still surfing at age 70, but now I wait for the right tide, the right wind, the right swell... Crowds kill me. I can no longer effectively compete for waves because both my paddling and popup are slow, but the stoke is still there when I do get a few waves. I appreciate individual waves a lot more now because they are so hard to come by.
It really is harder to surf at this age. For example I might take off, see the wave forming ahead of me and I know what I have to do. Brain to body: pull up into this section. Body to brain: I'm working on it as fast as I can. Brain to body: Oh shit, you're too slow, turn, turn, turn. LOL Paddling and popping up are much harder than when I was younger even though I am in good shape for an old fart, and I can no longer, for example, make a hard bottom turn and then bang the lip. When I was younger I never imagined how much harder those 'simple' acts would become. I totally agree with Matt about it being a joy to just be in the water. I will surf, take out a boogie board, or just bodysurf and swim depending upon wave/wind/tide conditions and I still love to do anything that gets me into the water. The most fun I had in the water last summer was just swimming and bodysurfing a double overhead south swell. Getting a bit worked by some of the waves and dealing with that much water moving around just feels good.
Once again, thanks for sharing your perspective.
@LongTimeITWorker, your heartfelt reflection on the evolving dynamics of surfing with age is truly appreciated. 🏄♂️ It's inspiring to hear how you've adapted your approach to the waves, waiting for the perfect conditions to maximize your stoke. Your description of the challenges and joys of surfing at 70 resonates deeply, illustrating the profound connection between body, mind, and ocean. 🌊 Despite the physical hurdles, your enduring passion for the water shines through, whether it's catching waves, bodyboarding, or simply immersing yourself in the ocean's embrace. Your gratitude for every wave and every moment in the water is a testament to the timeless allure of surfing. Keep riding the waves and embracing the magic of the ocean! 🤙 #SurfingJoys #AgelessSurfer
One time this old lady said to me "you're too old to be on that" she was referencing my carver and I replied around here we shred to till we're dead!"
My drill is 10 push-ups then pop up. Repeat.
I started surfing at 14 . I am now 74 and still at it .Matt lists many reasons he no longer desires to surf . There are always lots of reasons . I do it for the grace rather than the challenge . So I do not do big waves . Chest high at best . I enjoy the glide and cutbacks and drop knee turns . Every time I get out of the water I feel good . I have modified my pop up to make it easier . I practice pop ups 20 times a day . Mostly I do it because I love the ocean . I also mix in lots of free diving and ocean paddling . Most surfers only enjoy surfing not all the other ways you can enjoy mother ocean . Too bad for them . The only thing that keeps me dry are the huge crowds since the pandemic . Too many people ruin the soul of surfing . I encourage more people to stop surfing . More waves for me .
For those that don’t know this gentleman (Matt Warshaw), he is an absolute legend of the sport and literally wrote the incredibly rich, beautiful and fascinating book The History of Surfing, which proudly sits in my living room. Matt, thanks for everything you’ve done - I’d love to meet you someday. At 50, with an 8 year old son, and a life long obsession with surfing and the ocean, I can relate to many of your points, and appreciate your honest and rather vulnerable perspective. We share similar histories - I grew up in LA (surfing Malibu every weekend from the age of 12 to 18) before moving north for college and then to San Francisco for many years. Many sessions at OB. I find myself in Laguna Beach these days, blessed for sure, yet rarely bother with the crowds and froth a few minutes south of me (Trestles for those that don’t know). Your move to Seattle reminds me of Gerry Lopez moving to Portland (and finding love for pow). Thank you for your incredible contributions to the Sport of Kings. Those of us that love surfing with all of our hearts - regardless of how often we get in the water these days - owe you a debt of gratitude.
A LOT of these guys making comments don’t know about Matt’s history and contribution
All they have to do is Wikipedia his bio
before making judgemental comments “he must have been forced into the sport , I surf better than the 30 year olds etc “
I guess Matt’s Encyclopedia of Surfing is now an online portal
I love that book!
@thejonathanrath, thank you for sharing your heartfelt connection to the legendary Matt Warshaw! 🏄♂️ It's amazing how Matt's work has touched the lives of surf enthusiasts like yourself. Your appreciation and understanding of the surfing journey, from Malibu to Laguna Beach, resonate deeply. Here's to the shared love for the ocean and the waves, and the gratitude we all feel for Matt's contributions to the "Sport of Kings." 🌊🙌 #SurfLegends #Gratitude #SurfingCommunity
53 Years Old.
Lost 3 years from a move.
Actually surfed my way back into shape.
As I've gotten older, my expectation is to get a few rides and enjoy the day.
Riding a little more foam, more carve and flow.
That said I'm having more fun then when I was younger and expected to rip everthing..
Not to mention the fitness is awesome!
No End in sight for me.
I gave up surfing cause of the crowds. It’s sad and I miss it but I hate the crowds 😢
I once said to myself "I'm going to surf till I die". I thought I would never stop. But I did. Now I only reminisce about those totally awesome wonderful years. Thank you for sharing. It touched my heart.
Same with me and motorcycles.
At a red light I told the wife “that’s it, I’m done.” Rode to the dealer and sold it back to him, walked home.
5 1/2 years ago at age 65, well over 50 years of riding. Don’t miss it.
@@petegregory517 Thank you for sharing. I’m 65 too.
@ryant651, your words resonate deeply, reflecting the bittersweet nostalgia that comes with a journey through the waves. The sentiment of surfing till the end is a beautiful commitment, and even in reminiscing about those incredible years, the connection to the surf remains alive. Thank you for sharing your heartfelt reflection. 🌊❤️ #SurfMemories #SurfTillIDie #SurfPodcast
I’m 66. I still identify as a surfer. I’m headed to the North Shore today to catch some small waves. Closest thing to the fountain youth.
Weird that I found this. I thought I was the only one. 45 years of surfing, every swell big or small, winter or summer completely obsessed. Detached during non surfing vacations because I might be missing waves, or worse others were getting them. Every moment was about surfing. I was the guy who got up early and checked the surf then harassed everyone until they dropped everything and came surfing. I think the turning point was a surfing trip with friends, something I had never done. After that trip I felt like it was over, I loved surfing, I was happy I had lived that way for 45 years but I was over it. I had always felt like I was moving up in the ranks and earning a place in the line up that was respected. Little by little I realized that the surf culture is so large today that kind of thing rarely happens anymore. The dream that I was earning a spot as one of the elders or would ever be considered that was a fantasy. Surfing had morphed from just an awesome personal experience to more of a way of proving status for me. It was no longer pure and I’m not exactly sure how or when it changed. I was always trying to improve and felt that status in the line up was linked to performance but with the damage done to joints and rotators from decades of abuse made improving beyond my late 40s something that was not gonna happen. I remember saying to myself youre not a failure for walking away. You just finished the story and wanted to put it down like a good book. Its such a relief to go to the beach and enjoy the beauty of the ocean without the torment of being without a board. No one who hasn’t lived like that their whole lives can understand the tremendous weight that is lifted from your shoulders when it is gone.
This. I’m 43 now, been surfing for 25 years and I’m experiencing same as you. I still surf every now and then, actually have a surf boat trip booked for next year… But I cannot stand the crowds and unpredictable weather anymore. Work, kids and life is just not allowing it right now. Once I accepted this, I felt so much relief. I enjoy playing with my kids on the beach now, I go fishing with them, bike rides, you name it. I’m looking forward to my surf trip next year and I’m hitting the gym to ensure I can get the most out of it, but if we score no waves I’ll be ok with it too, I’m so glad to have let go of that constant priority…
Great description. It's probably close to giving up an addiction, the sense of relief at not feeling the necessity of constantly surfing and checking surf is hard to describe. I remember many years ago speaking to older surfers and wondering how they could even think of giving up surfing, it seemed like giving up a limb or a vital organ - impossible. But years passed by with life very centred around surfing, but slowly the creping feeling of not meeting my own expectations, not getting into a wave as early as before, not having as much power, more prone to injury. Also the crowd changed, surfing used to be something that gave me almost a sense of euphoria, now it was a sense of frustration, driving into the car park at my local break seeing it full of cars and a lineup packed for a 3ft swell. The euphoria turned into anger and thoughts of aggression not fun. Then surfing with people without etiquette, not surfing to my mind capability. But I still couldn't drop it, I probably ended up detesting it, but it had been a part of my life for so long I felt that I couldn't stop. In the end I believe that God set me free. One day I prayed and said: God, if you want me to stop then let something happen today like an injury or damaged board and I'll stop surfing. I paddled out in some lovely barrelling over head surf, it was busy but enough sets to go round. After a couple of smaller waves, I took one and took the nose of the board to my face. The nose was cracked and my face was badly bruised but I didn't take that as an answer to my prayer as I figured it was pretty minor. I kept surfing until I was pretty tired, I decided to head in and caught a late wave and was thrown out in front. When I came to the surface my board was snapped in two. My prayer had been answered and I was free from surfing.
I'm 72 and have lived all of my adult life too far from the ocean. I will soon be moving close enough to give it one more try. I just want to capture one more early morning swell and create one more memory of the way it used to be. If I fail it won't bother me. But I want to try.
Sorry you think that way mate. I'm an Aussie who's surfed since I was 6 years old. I'm now 70, and because of knee pain, and a thigh injury I had to stop surfing, but it didn't last long as it depressed me not catching waves. So I swallowed my silly pride and grabbed a bodyboard and some finns and got back out there. It's been an amazing experience, and going surfing now gets me as excited as a young grommet. I'm literally catching more waves then ever and I'm having a ball. I think bodyboarding will keep me out there into my 80s, and longer, I hope.
I'm 72 now. I've had to move from Hawaii to the mainland inadvertantly just before the plandemic. When I left there was so many disrespectful PUNKS in the water that it was hard to enjoy surfing at my spots. HOWEVER ~ My new fascination with ocean sports is KITESURFING. Now I'm in North Carolina which sucks for waves but rocks for kitesurfing. I'm building carbon foils and slowly improving in this awesome sport. I see how God has saved the best for last and I can get my water time without hassle and it's all new and as good as or better than at first when I was young. Foiling and surfing in waves with the kite will be my pastime STOKE !!
It's good to hear Matt say these things. It makes me feel like I'm not alone. Surfing became frustrating in my 40's. As Matt said, I started to resent it. I wasn't getting the return on my lifetime investment in surfing. I didn't have the time to focus on it like I did before, and each session became more and more difficult (difficult as far as catching waves, and performing.) I wasn't in great shape anymore and crowds had gotten much bigger, and are made up of younger, more aggressive surfers. So I started surfing less and less, eventually moving to a landlocked state this year. I've been gone for three months. I thought I could live without it, but now I've reached that point where I'm actually sort of depressed without it. All I can think about is how to move back. I think the best advice I could give for someone beginning to feel frustrated with surfing, is to take a break. Take a month or two off if you have to, and don't be afraid to tailor your boards to your current performance level (and weight, lol.) Don't move away from the coast. We are who were are, and for some reason we need surfing.
Started surfing when I was 12....49 now. From FL., lived on Oahu for a bit, then traveled all over to surf, mtn bike, snowboard...even created a career that would allow me to have the freedom to get in the water when a swell hit(and travel often). Where I live in FL. something shifted in the last 5 or so years...way less waves, and when there are waves they're basically crap. I'd even paddle out on a "solid" hurricane swell and sit for 45 mins watching shifty lines pass by, often close outs, or the tide was wrong then the wind came up, and so on..to the point I was more aggravated leaving the water than when I paddled out. Then the skills start to drop due to lack of use/practice, and since I'm a performance minded person I'd get in my head and wonder if I could even stand up since I hadn't paddled out in two months...I wasn't having fun! Then the pandemic junk happened and the idea of international travel seemed less likely(and I still have zero interest in flying..began after my last trip to Bali). It's become a source of anxiety for me..I feel like I should still be excited to surf(and miss the stoke..miss being fried after a long session and happy to pass out at 8pm so I can get up early for more). I paddled out two days ago and I caught one wave but didn't get to my feet since I needed to get loose first by catching a couple slow ones...but no more waves came to me...more aggravation. I'm trying to take the "pressure" off and just not even try for a bit and see if maybe a year from now I'll be more interested to do the work. I ride my bikes daily so that's become my main source of release and still progressing and pushing. My life rule has become..."If it's not fun I don't do it!"
Resentment. I've had those feelings too. Balance is key I am learning. Motivation is something to work on too.
Try bodyboarding mate. It's a lot of fun, and gets you back into what we all love, catching waves.
@bradb5541, your candid reflection on the challenges and emotional journey with surfing resonates deeply. 🏄♂️ Many surfers face the evolving dynamics of the sport, and your honesty about the frustration, changing physicality, and the impact of larger and more competitive crowds is relatable. It's evident that surfing holds a significant place in your heart, even as life circumstances led you away from the coast. The advice you offer, encouraging surfers to take a break and adapt their approach to align with their current circumstances, is valuable. Surfing indeed becomes a part of our identity, and the longing for it can be a powerful force. Your story adds to the diverse narratives within the surfing community, highlighting the complex relationship we forge with the waves. Wishing you clarity and fulfillment on your journey, whether it leads you back to the coast or unfolds in new and unexpected ways. 🌊🤙 #SurfingJourney #AdaptingWithTheTides #surfpodcast
I’m 59 now and retired. I’m presently getting back into the one activity in my life that I personally feel no other sport or recreation can replace and that’s surfing. I’m coming off a 5 year hiatus of doing what I used to be so passionate about. A lot of why I stepped away from it is because how I started to see more and more aggression and agitation in the water that would bring many surfers to extreme boiling point behavior. My personal opinion is that surf contests definitely didn’t do anything to squelch this. Surfing to me is along with the obvious attributes of great physical fitness, is more a cleansing and even a spiritual relationship with nature. We need to treat each other along with Mother Nature with respect. I’m on mission not only to return to the one thing that has brought so many fulfilling moments in my life but also to share kindness to my fellow man by becoming the person to spread positive energy because of the inner reflection that I receive through getting in touch with this beautiful activity we call surfing.
Me: 33 years surfing. And I quit 4 months ago. Best decision I ever made. Went back last weekend and didn't miss it at all. Tired of the same breaks and the BS behind, driving, packing, etc.
I'm back to MTB full time where I don't have to rely on the weather. I can even MTB any time. Storm and on a sunny day.
If I ever move to where the waves are good, then I resume it but Florida sucks.
I surfed with Matt in our high school days. We surfed with a lot of really good guys. The Levy brothers, Barella, Benevitas, Kaufman, Avery, Mobley, Jarvis, just to name a few.
That era was a magical time as we segwayed from single fins to twin fins to the thruster in a relatively short period of time.
After returning home from Australia after being there for nearly a year, where you get tubed more in one day than an entire year in the Southbay....I knew it was coming to an end for me.
It wasn't just getting old... it was also the quality of the surf for me. I just wasn't interested anymore surfing in closed out conditions.
Before I watched this video I literally thought I was the only guy this was happening to . I was always a decent surfer and could hold my own in semi heavy waves and have surfed different gnarly reefs in the world. But 3 years ago as soon as I got to around 50 my surfing literally fell apart.
Let me really paint this picture. I lost almost all my ability to pop up, get stance right , and surf with any kind of flow. If anyone saw me surf they would think that I just started not long ago. I am not even exaggerating 8n the least.
Here is the kicker. I am and always have been in great shape. I look like I'm in my thirties. I work out and until my shoulder injury 5 months back was ripped and athletic. So why in the hell would I lose my abilities???!!!! My paddling is still strong !
Over the past 3 years out of disbelief I have spent thousands on getting boards made. I was thinking maybe I need to go up in volume. Fatter rails, etc. Nope!!
Still terrible. This led to me over time resenting surfing. Asking myself why am I still doing this? If I can't surf well then I have a miserable time. It's not to impress anyone but me.
And what is even more weird is some times out of the blue I will get a wave and have no problem and shred. I had a left a couple of swells ago where I cracked off 3 back hand snaps proper. Totally vertical on my first snap. It felt so darn good and was so smooth. Even got some props from dude in lineup.
Then next day I paddle and I'm a total barn again. This really has me baffled and depressed even.
I made so many sacrifices to live this lifestyle and now it's been taken away.
There are many older guys who still surf well so I really don't know what to think.
A part of me says that I should just accept that it's over but I am cursed with being very strong willed and I don't give up easily.
Surf coaches say they can help but I don't see how. A coach? I am a life long surfer what in the hell are they going to teach me?
I feel for you Matt but I am a little relieved that it's not just me. But unlike you I do not want it to slip away.
I feel you, brother. Do you think that, maybe, your expectations for your performance is too high and unrealistic? You know what you USED to be able to do, so you still have that expectation. It's kinda like what I experienced as a runner. As I got older, my running got slower and slower and slower. When I think back to how fast I USED to run in my younger days, I get discouraged because my running times now are just so much slower. When I was younger, I was the runner who was usually passing others. Nowadays, I am the one who's getting passed. It wasn't until I lowered my expectations and adopted more realistic expectations, did I start to enjoy running again. Today, I don't even wear a watch when running. I no longer time my runs nor do I track my distance. I simply run. I enjoy the scenery. I don't worry about time or distance. When I start to feel like I had enough, I just stop or I start walking. No expectations. I'm still getting exercise. I'm still staying fit.
@@user-sg8kq7ii3y No its not a slow decline. My ability literally vanished. There are no neurological problems or health problems. It's bizzare.
@@rodbarrett1581 Very interesting. You think something neurological could be going on that's causing a loss of coordination?
@@user-sg8kq7ii3y No problems there as my work involves having good balance and coordination. Completely baffled.
I grew up on a surfboard. Severson took baby pics of me and was in surf movies. Watched Surf Guide become Surfer, wrote for Surfing and our own mag, did the Surfline thing, was ion teams, my own teams...fun, all was fun. I'm 65 now. Surfed with top surfers for a couple decades. The back side of it was still a stoke until it wasn't. I did all I wanted to do in surfing and moved on. I have many great memories . Others can enjoy it. There's other goals in life for me. Plus it's too cold where I am and danged if there aren't aches and pains that didn't exist so surfing is quite painful. I'm content with my memories and watching others now, laughing, and sharing the stoke. God bless all here.
I'm 65, not even thinking of stopping. Searching out warm point waves now.
Surfing is a great sport when you are young and dumb. The funnest sport in the world most times. Age and crowds for me ended it all. I still remember great days and many times almost drowning and I just laugh in my head. Thanks!
I've never surfed, have no idea why this showed up on my recommended. Don't know why I clicked on it. Thoroughly enjoyed it! Lots of wisdom from the guy on the right.
@mereskimade, we're stoked to hear that you enjoyed the content, even if you haven't surfed! 🏄♂️ Wisdom knows no bounds, and we're thrilled to have you tuning in. Whether you're a seasoned surfer or just dipping your toes in the surfing world, there's something for everyone. We hope to keep you entertained on this wave of wisdom! 🌊✨ #SurfWisdom #Entertainment #SurfPodcast
Six Zero here. Still surf 5'10 also Ten 0 log...& skate pools.. swim train & gym daily ... Mtbiking in the woods & coast paths.. cold water temps 12 degrees & dropping. Cheyne Horan once said "physical fitness is everything " Count your blessings 🙏❤ " argue your limitations .. & their yours to keep"
Lol not surfing for month, try living in South Florida 😂 I’ve gone months at a time without getting wet. No energy to drive a couple hours for a 2 foot mush. But at 50 I still loving it. Don’t care about my performance but the feeling of riding the wave. But I am a bodyboarder so that probably helps 😂
My friend Chuck is twenty years my senior. He’s 73 and he’s still going strong. He moved to Maui in 1971,a year after I was born. I’m all for the folks getting out of the water,because it’s a zoo out there between the surf school kooks, the wahines, and the recent lack of brutality doled out,which can be dangerous.if you are questioning whether you are even enjoying yourself,do us all a favor and quit surfing. There is only so many parking spaces and the lineups are full .’If you don’t surf don’t start’ ad campaign needs to be resurrected
I broke my neck surfing 25 years ago age 20, been a Quadriplegic since.... I think about surfing every day, I just went to Hawaii, im in El Salvador right now then Mexico I couldn't imagine giving up surfing by choice although when I see the crowds now i don't feel jealous
I'm 68 and I surfed some bombs today. Not as good as I did when I was say....50, but man.....I was still holding my own and loving it.
I am 68 and rode a board since 14 yo. As I got older and surfed less I found the popup impossible. I moved to bodyboarding. At least I could catch any wave and have fun every surf. 6 months ago I bought an 8' cruisy board. I cannot get to my feet!!!. Still considering practicing more so I get there but maybe just stick to bodyboarding. At least its fun.
I am 60 years old, surfed all my life, had both knees replaced just on 1 year ago, even though I have poor bend I persevered and started to train myself to surf again, it took a lot but I am up and surfing again riding a 6 foot Hypto Krypto through to a malibu if the surf is small, if I can still move I am never going to stop, too much fun to be missed
Tell me more please, I go in for dual tkr in a week
@@keithrit My experience has been the 2 factors that you must achieve post operation to ensure the best mobility is: 1. Achieve the best bend in your knees that you can get, the goal is 120 degrees, it's hard work, really hard work. 2. Get your knee joints straight post op. I personally found getting the knees straight reasonably achievable, the bend though is very hard, speak to your physio regarding this both prior to the op and post op, you have essentially 3 months to achieve the bend.or the scar tissue sets in, unfortunately I knew I was in trouble right from the start and I have essentially only achieved a relaxed bend of 90 degrees and a forced bend (measured by lunging the knee with great pain) of only around 110 degrees, If you are struggling post op speak to both your surgeon and physio, don't just let it be, make sure you are getting improvements as it will make all the difference to your life post op.
Better at what...
I'm 57 & surfing for 44years
If it doesn't give you joy or it's not fun anymore, then let it go.
Isn't that the reason someone starts surfing, cause it's FUN.
BTW great show
Amen Matt at 68 I'm with you the pop-up, sternum bone, stamina, and just a lot of work for little pay but I loved all 60 addicted years I was lucky enough to have ....never missed a swell. Power to you guys still goin in your golden years. JW
“I had a kid at 49” & “I live in Seattle” there’s the truth
I'd probably retire from surfing early too if I had half of Matt's bar in the background...😄🤙
I’m 61 and ride 25 liters in a 5’5”. Ex California pro and NSSA collegiate champion .I barely catch anything competing with the largest kook invasion in our sports history made of sponge . I’m always pissed off and miss localism …….then I get that one wave and realize in 61 on a 5’5” still at it and I surf better than ever. Grateful would be the word .
This guy lost the plot, low T , vegan, beat down, the pendulum swing hard from non stop obsession to nothing, weak
Eh to each his own I guess. But just surf for fun and dont be too hung up on ripping.
It's funny how the host is almost scared of arriving at Matt's mindset. It's really ok.
I think everyone should quit at 30. Maybe even 20. Its a dangerous bad sport!
Wow! I am sixty one and stopped FANATICAL surfing when I was around fifty, Now I rarely surf anymore because I just ran out of energy for the sport. I perfectly understand what Matt is saying. You simply just move on.
Two words: BODY BOARDING! The best!!!!!!
Going to be 61 in January. Surfing since 14. The best thing to keep surf fit is to just paddle as much as possible. I paddle in a pool as much as I can in between sessions which can be 2 months. Or paddle at the beach when it's flat. Push ups and pull ups are good, but nothing is better for paddling for those muscles. If you can't catch a wave, it's not worth it.
I never comment on RUclips, but I felt so compelled to here. Your story feels so similar to mine. Surf mats, my brother. It absolutely changed my life. From the most incredible feeling on a wave that no board has ever matched for me, to ease of transport. It’s like tapping into a new dimension on the wave. Magical.
Welcome aboard! @BanzaiCoyote
Was fortunate to surf for almost 35 years. Beach life became expensive and living near it was not in my finances. Glad I had those times, great memories, epic days.
Became an old desert rat now.
Wide open spaces, no crowds, desert motorcycle riding offers me a close 2nd to surfing
I'm 60 years old surfed my whole life growing up in Huntington Beach,live now in San Diego. The young surfers make comments about me surfing a short board, until they see that I can do it. Never give up surfing, surfing is life.
I'm 52 now, been surfing since I was 13. Competed and was sponsored from about 18 through my early 30's, worked in the industry, traveled, and even briefly had an east coast based magazine about it in the late 90's (Rare Breed) ..... However, surfing wasn't the only thing I was into: I was also an avid skateboarder/snowboarder, and, even did some BMX which lead into an obsessive love of mountain biking over the past 10 years. Ended up living in Las Vegas in the middle of the desert for a couple years from Nov 2019 through last spring and didn't surf for 2 straight years and barely surfed a few times since then. I spent that time hiking, rock climbing, camping mountain biking, and off-roading and loving every minute of that! ... I ended up hating the process involved with surfing and got frustrated with all the variables it took to score just a few "ok" waves at my age now. And forget about getting in and out of a wetsuit in the winter to try to catch a couple cold waves! I felt like out of every 10 surf sessions MAYBE 3 of them were "good" a few were average, and the rest were just pure suckfests where I'd get out of the water more frustrated than before I paddled out. Now my pop-ups are so slow and terrible it makes surfing even that less enjoyable. My life used to revolve around surfing but now it's become just something I do if the waves are good and I have free time and energy. I don't hate surfing, I'll always love the feeling of a good wave, but I have other things in my life that give me the same feeling of stoke, so I don't really feel like there's any significant void missing.
this guy is not that old. he just doesn't want to surf anymore.
In my home break I always hang out with the old guy's and I learned is not about when you can't make it anymore. It's more about how much happiness this brings to any undetermined age time in life. I don't compete anymore and my boys are now my new trip pals. So as I get older there's also certain freedom there's pains and age but I still have the groom inside now I'm older but the waves of the ocean are my happy place my Nirvana.
I totally understood Matt Warshaw. I experienced the same thing!!
Looks like Matt is 62? I surfed until I was 68 and had a combination of things that occurred to allow me to stop surfing. One was I couldn't shake a couple of very nagging injuries that I just couldn't shake. I also had a bit of a miracle moment when I got to surf at Kelly's Surf Ranch which was an amazing surf trip for an older guy. Surfing that many perfect waves caused that injury to flair up and after that I found myself battling my friends and the amazing pandemic crowd of new surfers over the default 2 ft. crap surf and I was done.
Then I simply woke up one day and thought, "Wait, I don't HAVE to surf any more." It was actually a huge relief as it had become a bit of a task and the fun had gone away. As was mentioned in the interview when one no longer identifies as a 'surfer' it can help to understand that I might never have really been a 'surfer' but simply someone who surfed, and now I was someone who simply no linger surfs it can help with that identity thing..
It's a tough thing when my mind wants to ride waves the same way I did 30-35 years ago but the consequences are different now. It's an adjustment , especially as the injuries have piled up over the years. I lived on Oahu for 15+ years and used to train and prepare for big waves and all that goes with that - now I train for having fun in waves of lesser consequence and to be okay with it. The mental aspect is as challenging as anything else.
This is a good conversation to have.
@mikemccourt6225, your perspective on the evolving nature of surfing is insightful and resonates with many who've shared similar experiences. 🏄♂️ The realization that our minds often reminisce about the past while our bodies navigate the present, with its different set of consequences, is a profound aspect of the surfing journey. It's commendable how you've adapted your training to find joy in waves of lesser consequence, embracing the changes with resilience and a commitment to having fun. Surfing, beyond its physical demands, indeed presents an intricate mental challenge that evolves over time. Your openness to this conversation adds depth to the shared narrative of surfers navigating the various chapters of their wave-riding lives. 🌊🤙 #SurfingEvolution #AdaptAndEnjoy
@@SurfSplendor I appreciate the kind words and good content. Something I realized this past year was that what really eases this transition is being able to pass on to the kids the lessons learned from 50+ years of ocean experience surfing and bodysurfing, lifeguarding, free diving, etc. It's been quite a trip to let the younger kids in the family go through the lessons the ocean teaches us while being a point of safety and guidance for them - and still let them get the experience they'll need if they're going to continue with this thing we do. "What did we learn from that?" is what I always ask them and now I get to remember to ask myself that same question as the journey continues.
Standard “Venice” surfer..
We had George. George surfed into his 70s. Every wave was a party wave in his eyes. Running people over being clueless. We all had a George story. But at the same time we admired the fact that he still paddles out. We miss George, he doesn’t paddle out anymore. Aloha George
Continuing to drag something out because you can’t let it go , especially something that is so heavily entrenched in identity and ego only leads to frustration. That’s why there’s so man angry old surfers out there. I feel they want to try and surf boards they could ride 20 years ago but the ego stops them trying boards more suited to them now , making the experience more easy and fun.
Personally I’ve been loving soft tops, the good ones still allow for some performance but are super easy to paddle and catch waves and aren’t serious at all so it all becomes fun again.
Me 56, 2 hips and ripping. Zen. Pop up 70% done, 6.3" 37litters, still fast, i think. pls quit all of you. more waves for kids like us. until pop up is 10%. started at 6, so 50 ripping for now.
Mid-40s now surfing since I was 14, surfing ate me up for so many years loved it, lived it. Slowed down a little for a while at times, life got busy, home, family, business, projects, I forgot what surfing really good waves felt like. I didn't miss being scared in bigger surf and thought you know, maybe I'll only surf on the days when it's really good & easy, clean & head high. Then, the perfect twin fin came along. It ignited the stoke and the joy again. Like the tide, the stoke & the joy of surfing comes and goes with the ebb & flow of life. I am very grateful to enjoy such a beautiful pastime, the connection with nature, the banter at the beach. This guy seems to me like he was / is missing the gratitude. Peace out 🤙
Surfed fanatically till my mid forties.. then developed a health problem that stopped me..initially I went through grief trauma...but out the other side I realized thank "God " there are other things in life as important and rewarding...like simple nature walks and service to others..looking back on surfing is it a stunning beautiful experience but self gratification is not everything.
Well said. And the missing message in this thread.
I am comforted to hear others going through similar emotions. Illness has sapped my energy, and my body just can't tolerate lower temps anymore. I feel like such a fake, loving it, but not doing it.
I love this interview and I relate 100% with what he said. I’m glad I came here to watch this video. I’m happy I’ve surfed so much in my life and went to all the amazing places and met all the incredible people surfing allowed me to. Surfing was my life and my identify. However, I’m also happy not doing that anymore at age of 41 with two kids. I’m happy with what I do with my time now. It’s still hard for some close people to accept I don’t wanna do that anymore. Thank you very much for this interview
Never give up…
Never give up on doing what you love !
really insightful. two people at two very different places in their lives. I love how Matt explains it's ok to embrace the ending or "slowing down" of something you loved. I mean it sounds depressing at first, but then he explained it in a way that made sense. Our lives are constantly evolving and he found a new path to fulfillment with his writing. neat, thanks.
My last surf on a standup board followed some time out of the water due to injury. It was the day after Midget died. I had difficulty paddling onto the waves.
I'm now in my late 60's and am resigned to not (standup) surfing again, especially when I need to compete for waves in crowded surf against 17 year-olds.
I can identify with that South African guy who in Endless Summer 1 was a keen standup board rider but when he reappeared in Endless Summer 2 he just occasionally bodyboarded. That's me.
I've transitioned to bodyboarding, and at 70 I'm loving it like no tomorrow, I'll go out everyday if the conditions are good.
"I don't know if I was as obsessed as you"... ha ha, ya think? The dude wrote the Encyclopedia of Surfing... For anyone who grew up surfing, started really young (like grade school), got really good, but are aging now and know you don't surf like you used to, I've got advice for you. One, don't bother with crap surf. Two, get fit, drink less, do yoga/exercise that keeps you fit (I mean light and strong, like near your HS weight), and stay away from really competitive spots. Then surf only when the waves are halfway decent. And finally travel a few times year to get really good waves. You'll still love it, you'll still get amazing sunsets or sunrises in the water. No you won't surf as well as you used to, but that shouldn't bother you if you stay away from the really competitive crowds/waves - you'll better than 95% everywhere else. If you were never any good, don't bother unless you're ok with sucking and not get many waves. Sorry - its tough sport to learn if you didn't start young.
Hey Matt. Surfed with you when we all surfed for Unity Surfboards. Team Unity. I was the super tall guy. Jim Balster (Big Jim} Those bring fond memories. Enjoy.
Started surfing when I was 8 years old. Hanging around Jim Lyman's shop for hours on end (asking "Whatcha doin' Mr. Lyman?" twenty times a day) was more than he could handle so he "sold" me an old balsa wood board that I learned on - got me out of his hair and on the beach and it's made all the difference in my life. Long time ago. Now, sitting on a body/boogie board makes me feel like I'm an hors d'oeuvre waiting for the gray suits to chomp down on. Just knowing as I sit on my board that my feet are dangling in the water looking like a tasty appetizer is freaky enough in the thrill department. Matt brings up some really relateable points for us geezers. Total knee replacement, rebuilt rotator cuff on my left shoulder and a stroke have severely diminished my abilities but - at 74 - not my love for the sport.
It's the pop up. It's why I quit
I completed the same arc. It almost seems dumb, now. More like an addict reflecting after getting sober. They say it's a healthy addiction, but the more you do, the more you have to do. The quality has to increase. It ruins relationships and your body suffers when you quit. More fun now as someone that considers myself a non-surfer. I'll bet Matt agrees when I say what pisses me off most is when people call to ask why I didn't show up for the swell. That to me is like offering meth to an addict.
When I hit 50 yrs old is when surfing shortboards starting getting difficult. I was in denial for a few years and then I started surfing mid lengths and longboards and realized that upping my wave count and not working so hard to catch small mushy waves as a middle aged man, took way that feeling of "diminished returns" he talks about when you're in denial and trying to catch waves on a shortie like you did 20 years ago. Look, just get real and admit that you need more foam and length. It's Ok to get older and need more volume.I still surf shorter boards when the conditions are really complementary but I am not above grabbing the 9'0 softie and just catching a lot of waves and having fun. I also weight train 5 days a week. at 59, I am having as much fun as ever surfing 2-3 days a week. Just drop the ego, grab the longer board and keep surfing. Stay in shape in between swells and you'll be able to keep surfing. If you stop surfing and stop exercising, then yeah, your age will definitely make you want to quit. Better him than me...
I lived to surf all of my life multiple times a week. Started at 13 on a surfboard in the Dana Point area 1973, one of those blowup mats before that, moved to Maui for 11 years and surfed all the islands, multiple seasons to Indonesia in the 80s (15 months total), came back to Dana Point in the 94’ and continued surfing every week, mostly Cottons, and other spots that got bigger faced waves. Then at 60-62 with a bit more free time, I felt I was still surfing good, would be out at the peak getting my share and feeling good for my age on the biggest day. Then almost 63 I tore my meniscus which pretty much put me out for nearly a year and a setback at age is harder to recover, and now all of a sudden I am having back issues now for almost a year. So happy to have gotten all the waves I did, it made me happy, and a made a lot of fellow surfing friends. When my back is not too bad once or twice a month I will go to SanO and try to get to my feet. But I have focused on other interest’s and hobbies. It’s all good. I’m trying to get my back in shape and my knee feels healed now, so who knows maybe I can get a bit better again. I have accepted that I don’t need super high quality large faced waves like I used to. I can appreciate SanO and just being out in the water with others.
I started having fitness and health issues at 40. But could still do 8 hours in the crowded surf of indonesia. At 50 i was really having mobility issues and started seeking empty line ups,but might have been at my peak in my ability to catch a wave and surf. At 54 i broke my leg surfing. Since then its been hell. Now 59 i am broken.stiff and unfit from health issues. But i live on a sailboat and i only surf empty waves in indonesia with zero audience. If i surf for 2 hours and catch 1 good wave its a awesome day.
Interesting. I can identify with the plateau Matt hit and the frustration when the progression stops- plus family and work life kinda getting in the way. That’s what happened to me with skating around my late 30’s, addicted to vert ever since I was a grom, but couldn’t get my adrenaline fix like I used too. The intensity of it all, what’s the next trick I can land, can I go bigger on this stalefish or whatever. Never thought I’d quit but I did. So surfing and snowboarding took over for the next decade, then tennis for the next. Stuff I could still progress with. Then work and family life sucks the time out of the time one gets to focus on these things and over time increasingly one ends up with the vicarious thrills of picking up the next publication on surfing from Matt to keep the stoke alive in some way. Now I’ve grown up, retired, divorced, moved back to the waves and have some personal time again, my kids got me out surfing again when they’re with me on school holidays and I’m finding the stoke again. It’s crazy crowded and I get 1 wave in 10 compared to all the younger fitter rubbermen around me but I get that one wave and remember the thrill of my youth, and for a moment in this complicated life, I’m a frothing teenager again. Thanks for this really interesting interview.
Started at 35, got some of my best waves after 60, 70 now and dawning it 5 mornings a week. Good food, good exercise, good stretches. Riding a big thruster now, worst case scenario I'll go back to my mini-tanker.
I’m not a quitter
His body language shows he’s so full of himself 🙄
He deserves it. I've seen him surf Mavericks & big Ocean Beach/ SF over the years and I will tell you: we are not worthy. Then there's that thick book he wrote, and I can see a copy on my coffee table from where I'm typing this.
I watched this and decided to quit straight away. Thank you guys
You're welcome!