I don't know if this is efficient, but right now I have like 10 tabs of your tutorials to use as guides for a new figure which involves a lot of new techniques for me, and you are literally a living library with excellent explanation quality.
Man, all I gotta say is that I have watched so many of your videos and because of you, I am so much better. My painting is on completely different level. Starting from tips regarding airbrushing like spraying some flow improver before I start painting to your NMM…. You are one of few people who can actually explain the process and the reasoning behind your painting. You have a gift and I am glad you are so committed to post so many videos to make others better painters!
You're criminally underrated. I'm sure you're well aware. But for real man, thanks for the years of work and dedication of not only working so hard at your craft but also sharing it with us.
It really changes the whole thing. The ultra-smooth blends required of NMM often then make it look not real because we are used to seeing imperfections. Adding them back can really sell it.
been looking at tutorials for nmm for a week - this is by far the best explained - i was able to work alongside the explanations and get a fair result - thanks for your tutorial vince
Nice. Since getting back into the hobby after about a 30 year hiatus (with tiny exceptions along the lines of needing Christmas gifts on a budget, and crappy stock paint jobs on top of good sculpts of things found at dollar stores that specifically are collected by people), it has been difficult to re-allign with the advances of three decades thst have been accelerated by the medium of the internet. Arguably, outside of mostly digital styles, there has rarely been such a rate of advancement in any art form in recorded history; particularly since the medium itself only spread in popularity in lockstep with the games that themselves have had their widespread acceptance tied to advances in media technology at the consumer level. (Seeing the first Miniatures which on a screen were indistinguishable from classical painting by Masters was both daunting and inspirational at the same time) Having a background in 2D fine arts and having used that in my "old period" of mini painting, techniquess like OSL have not been such as stretch, but NMM has been a different animal altogether. I can honestly say, though, that between this video and Miniac's on the same subject; that I finally feel confident enough to step up to a specific knight's armor that I have been putting off (it is for one of my player's characters on Discord, and I believe in doing the best that I can for those I DM for, the digital medium also demands a high grade of painting not only despite the loss of detailin transmission but because of it: a ten% loss of resolution demands an 11% increase in starting quality for recognition on a battle map). The reference to using another's video for functional completeness is not denigrating to either video; rather it is a factual statement regarding the nature of transmission of information in this medium. With any information whatsoever, it is increasingly important to seek out even a related but different perspective in order to triangulate something resembling "truth"; in the case of a creative application this is even moreso the case if ne is going to be able to synthesize their own style. For this technical application, there is a definite synergy for myself in the signature presentation of the material between your own "matter of fact" style of video instruction (rooted in the same approach that likely formed part of the decision making process behind "Hobby Cheating" as a title, a stripped down demonstration with generally pared down commentary); and Miniac's, inclusive as it is of an obligatory undercurrent of silliness that comes from living up to the persona invoked by his own channel title. Both videos, much as with those of the larger creator community surrounding miniature painting, also reflect stages of growth in the individual teaching styles of the creators. Yours maintains the matter-of-fact element that you began with, while Miniac is still increasing his use of technical background and theory; whole both are increasingly proficient at being encouraging yet realistic for whatever grade or experience the viewer might presently be at personally. This seems to be representative of most content creators in the extended community, and it bodes well for the continuation of the hobby as it continues to diversify and grow with technological applications that already include 3D printing by individuals and creation of the files used for such; and on into the future as materials technology and other innovations create more pre-coloured models and most likely even light/holographic battle boards and such. In a very abstract way, given that there IS a competitive element both for viewership and in literal competitions; the general and seemingly ubiquitous attitude of ftirnfly and supportive attempts to push both the upper and lower measures of the hobby is a good example of something that would be nice to see more widely spread in other aspects of life as time continues it's march forward. On that note, I have a mini to paint on a deadline for today's game, as well as much other preparatory efforts to make for the likely culmination of a ten week long module series. Then mundane and practical matters are demanding of my attention; as with many others I have personal challenges to overcome and it is a good thing to have stability within which to enjoy pastimes. If that should prove insurmountable, at least I have already figured out how I can place my computers and other valuables in safe storage, while keeping one of my small IT stations and essential gaming and painting supplies within a water proof cart that is easily unfoldable and can be turned into a temporary work space and DMing station wherever I can find power and a wifi signal. ( it is wonderful to live at a time when that can even be said to be an option, and I mention it not because I honestly expect such to be needed, but rather that it is something that can give perspective for anyone facing difficulties that might read this; stress and fear are two of the most fundamental enemies one can face in any endeavour; and this includes miniature painting). Now, onward! There is paint to be applied!
This was a great demonstration. I took my first NMM class at ReaperCon yesterday. Definatly a technique I want to start practicing. Thanks for they great instruction!
I love your flair when adding one of those "simple yet mind blowingly effective" touches. Vince: "Boom, just like that" -> Me: FALL TO MY KNEES IN EPIPHANY
Vince Venturella watched your video on just get an airbrush. Any suggestions for a very small and very quiet combination? Not price sensitive (within reason)
Incredibly helpful. I'm fairly new to miniature painting, and have had trouble with my NMM attempts. This shows exactly why I'm not getting the results I'm trying for.
I've discovered your channel through Serasteros Painting. I was looking for a good brush care video and he reccomended you. I've been binging your hobby cheating and reviews for the last week. Love your work. And this is amazing and the way you explain everything makes things super easy for me.
Thank you, that is quite a compliment as I love Sorastro's Painting and it's awesome that he gave the shout out. I am very glad to hear the techniques were helpful and if you run into any questions or have requests for future vids, always just ask. Thanks for watching and commenting! :)
Vince: *makes a few dabs and makes magic* Me: *makes those same dabs and makes a hot mess* One of these days, so help me, I WILL nail NMM, and this video actually went a ways towards decisively de-mystifiying it for me. Thank you, Vince!
Awesome video as always, I found this by chance and this has helped give me a better idea, I bought Vallejo NMM paint set few years ago and gave yet to use ( is it better to use NMM paints or just like you the three you did?) As much as the instruction booklet was informative, seeing this in action was and is way better. I'm off to watch your NMM gold video now, again thanks for posting, l must also say that trick to show damage was an eye opener, seen others do it but you actually explained it thanks for that, as it will definitely be used on my other future armour wearing miniatures.
This is amazing video bud :) Best NMM Steel around and also what seems to be one of the more easier ones :) I have a Wonder Woman bust on the way so Il be trying some of this just more reds, oranges and browns.
Great vid as usual Vince, I have been experimenting with NMM for quite while now and I am slowly starting to get results (thanks impart to your tutorials). You certainly make it look easy lol I think to get the first stage of that armour plate would have taken me over an hour !! lol Copper NMM vid next please sir :-)
Thank you sir, much appreciated. It's just something that comes with practice and working with the paints, no other secret than that :) - Copper is definitely on the list, it's the toughest of all of them for sure.
Old video - but love your way of explaining. Did my first attempt today, but the blend messes with me. On smaller miniatures, do you just do a dark and light and skip the midtone?
Not really, it would have to be a very small space (like a single very, very, very small scale of scale mail). In most cases, you need the whole gamut. It's one of the reasons NMM is often quite time consuming.
Hello Vince. I'm trying to do NMM Steel on the shoulder pad of an orc Blood Bowl miniature (3rd) using Vallejo Model Color. Aren't you taking great advantage of the gel like type to paint that Warpaints and Scale 75 have? I mean, shouldn't I add some thinner or retardent when using Model Color because it looks to me that the color never gets really blended on the shoulder pad, but I get streaky brushstroke and one color just covers the previous one. I think I can manage to block in some near black color like in 2:56-3:03 but then I go blank on this NMM. (pun intended)
Yes, to a point you are correct, these are easier to wet blend. With other paints, you may need to apply them thicker and then wet blend, use some retarder as you mention, or combine your layers with glazes. All of those could work.
@@VinceVenturella Hello Vince. I simply can't make it work. Its just a simple should pad and I never get the paints to blend together. Just to do something I have put a white stripe on the top, a Sky Grey on each side of that for the white, further down at the far side of the Sky Grey I have put a Neutral Grey stripe and then a Dark Bluegrey stripe so a to block in something. Now what? Make a Glaze of the Neutral Grey and drag the brush from the bottom of the Dark Bluegrey stripe and up until reaching the Neutral Grey stripe were I retract the brush, let dry and the repeat until smooth? That doesn't feel like a cheat other than I'm cheating my self.
Thanks, another brilliant tutorial. It looks so easy. I make decent NMM when painting on paper, but still struggle on small scale minis. Do you think Daler&Rowney Payne's Gray could be an alternative for hydra blue ink?
I like the tip about masking mistakes with intentional placement of scratches. Will be keeping it in mind :) Are warcolors blue-grey line good paints for NMM steel, or are they too blue for this?
They are also good, honestly, one of the things I didn't say (but wish I had) is that you can use a WIDE range of colors for this, all sorts of grey/X paints will work as long as they 1) have a lot of contrast on the model and 2) react properly where the light would reflect. I have done this with all purple paints mixed from Red, White and Blue and got what looks like normal steel. Your eyes will accept a lot of variation because we are so used to seeing slightly colored steel in the real world.
A fair amount faster, the gel medium does make a difference in this capacity. That being said, retardent is always the answer if you really want to slow things down.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you. That shoulderpad is driving me nuts. I can manage to paint some horizontal stripes over the shoulderpad in mostly black, dark grey, light grey and white but I never manage to blur between two lines and make smooth transitions. The paint dries on me and I have tried with some Dry Retarder. Of course there is something I do wrong but I can't figure out what. Maybe I if took two drops of paint of each colour and put them on the shouldpad, draw the stripes and then it transition between the two. I don't know............. You make it look so easy........... Any advices for me?
I will definitely try this out! And that's a really thorough tutorial, thanks. Are you using retarder medium in there as well? I don't know if it's the climate or something, but I have had some issue with paints drying too quickly, even when using a wet palette. Sometimes almost drying on the brush on the way to the model (Or at least losing that nice consistency).
I've just started learning NMM and the part I'm really struggling with is placement of the highest points of reflection, particularly on large flat areas e.g. A butchers cleaver. Digging out a handy one and holding it up didn't really help much. Any tips? Also can these processes be used with metallic paints?
My best advice is to image search on places like Putty and Paint and look for pieces that are similar and see how artists have interpreted it. It's the toughest part of NMM for sure. In general, on large flats like that, the angle of the bright reflection can change as it moves, but the easiest way is generally to cut a line across the middle of the flat and create a light catch/flash on one side (usually the lower side or just south of the middle).
Hi Vince, another great video as always! I've been practising NMM, but I find the hardest part is predicting where the light would hit, where the lightpoints would be. Do you maybe have some tips to figure that out? It looks like you don't even have to think about it :D
It's always the toughest part. I know there are some great image guides out there on reddit and imagr, my advice though is to just Google image search and look at real armor, it can be the best part. Here is a good article on Massive Voodoo about TMM, but they explain the principles of light well - massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2010/02/tutorial-painting-true-metallic-metal.html
What would u do to make those cracks and battle damage if u were doing say dark blue or dark green armor. I'm painting Dark Angels right now and have been curious about this. Would u still do the black then white like u did here?
So for battle damage on other armor, assumingly the armor is enameled, but in general, you just mix a little of your base color with the black (so in this case the green). I would still use a white (or near white with just a touch - a very light touch - of the green).
There was a really nice basic tutorial gallery that was posted over on r/minipainting the other day that I think supplements this video pretty well. It's basically a short image gallery about how to think about about your gradients when doing nmm. For me at least, this helped to connect a couple of the fundamental concepts so that videos like this make more sense, and generally made the idea much less intimidating. imgur.com/gallery/8Oh0X
Very cool gallery, that also touches on SENMM (or truly catching reflections of the horizon) - that is something I have earmarked to do a whole video on in the future as that is a deep well to explore. Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching as always.
Yes, I think the volume varies on that for some and not others but I have heard that before. I have tried some different settings and it still varies. I will have to mess with it some more. Glad the videos are helpful as always.
Great tutorial! But I am really having a hard time getting past the whole "brush licking" thing. I've seen a number of other painters do that too, so I realize it's not a one-off idiosyncrasy. And paints "say" they are non-toxic, but..... It's almost like scratching a chalkboard every time I hear the lick on the audio. My problem, not yours, clearly, but......yuck! Nonetheless, keep the videos coming-- I can always turn down the sound here and there. :-)
It's something I never did, now I can't live without it. If you want a good alternative, keep a wet sponge near your painting area and sort of drag your brush horizontally along it while rotating, you will achieve the same effect for the most part.
I don't know if this is efficient, but right now I have like 10 tabs of your tutorials to use as guides for a new figure which involves a lot of new techniques for me, and you are literally a living library with excellent explanation quality.
That's awesome!
Awesome tutorial. After years and years of putting it off, I'm finally trying to do NMM and this was extremely helpful.
Excellent, take the leap! The only way to get somewhere is to start the journey. :)
Man, all I gotta say is that I have watched so many of your videos and because of you, I am so much better. My painting is on completely different level. Starting from tips regarding airbrushing like spraying some flow improver before I start painting to your NMM…. You are one of few people who can actually explain the process and the reasoning behind your painting. You have a gift and I am glad you are so committed to post so many videos to make others better painters!
Thank you, that is wonderful to hear!
You're criminally underrated. I'm sure you're well aware. But for real man, thanks for the years of work and dedication of not only working so hard at your craft but also sharing it with us.
I appreciate that! :)
Another very thorough tutorial, I especially like the use of painting scratches and chips to re-enforce the look of the metal!
It really changes the whole thing. The ultra-smooth blends required of NMM often then make it look not real because we are used to seeing imperfections. Adding them back can really sell it.
been looking at tutorials for nmm for a week - this is by far the best explained - i was able to work alongside the explanations and get a fair result - thanks for your tutorial vince
Thank you, very glad to help as always and thank you for watching and commenting.
Nice.
Since getting back into the hobby after about a 30 year hiatus (with tiny exceptions along the lines of needing Christmas gifts on a budget, and crappy stock paint jobs on top of good sculpts of things found at dollar stores that specifically are collected by people), it has been difficult to re-allign with the advances of three decades thst have been accelerated by the medium of the internet.
Arguably, outside of mostly digital styles, there has rarely been such a rate of advancement in any art form in recorded history; particularly since the medium itself only spread in popularity in lockstep with the games that themselves have had their widespread acceptance tied to advances in media technology at the consumer level.
(Seeing the first Miniatures which on a screen were indistinguishable from classical painting by Masters was both daunting and inspirational at the same time)
Having a background in 2D fine arts and having used that in my "old period" of mini painting, techniquess like OSL have not been such as stretch, but NMM has been a different animal altogether.
I can honestly say, though, that between this video and Miniac's on the same subject; that I finally feel confident enough to step up to a specific knight's armor that I have been putting off (it is for one of my player's characters on Discord, and I believe in doing the best that I can for those I DM for, the digital medium also demands a high grade of painting not only despite the loss of detailin transmission but because of it: a ten% loss of resolution demands an 11% increase in starting quality for recognition on a battle map).
The reference to using another's video for functional completeness is not denigrating to either video; rather it is a factual statement regarding the nature of transmission of information in this medium.
With any information whatsoever, it is increasingly important to seek out even a related but different perspective in order to triangulate something resembling "truth"; in the case of a creative application this is even moreso the case if ne is going to be able to synthesize their own style.
For this technical application, there is a definite synergy for myself in the signature presentation of the material between your own "matter of fact" style of video instruction (rooted in the same approach that likely formed part of the decision making process behind "Hobby Cheating" as a title, a stripped down demonstration with generally pared down commentary); and Miniac's, inclusive as it is of an obligatory undercurrent of silliness that comes from living up to the persona invoked by his own channel title.
Both videos, much as with those of the larger creator community surrounding miniature painting, also reflect stages of growth in the individual teaching styles of the creators.
Yours maintains the matter-of-fact element that you began with, while Miniac is still increasing his use of technical background and theory; whole both are increasingly proficient at being encouraging yet realistic for whatever grade or experience the viewer might presently be at personally.
This seems to be representative of most content creators in the extended community, and it bodes well for the continuation of the hobby as it continues to diversify and grow with technological applications that already include 3D printing by individuals and creation of the files used for such; and on into the future as materials technology and other innovations create more pre-coloured models and most likely even light/holographic battle boards and such.
In a very abstract way, given that there IS a competitive element both for viewership and in literal competitions; the general and seemingly ubiquitous attitude of ftirnfly and supportive attempts to push both the upper and lower measures of the hobby is a good example of something that would be nice to see more widely spread in other aspects of life as time continues it's march forward.
On that note, I have a mini to paint on a deadline for today's game, as well as much other preparatory efforts to make for the likely culmination of a ten week long module series.
Then mundane and practical matters are demanding of my attention; as with many others I have personal challenges to overcome and it is a good thing to have stability within which to enjoy pastimes.
If that should prove insurmountable, at least I have already figured out how I can place my computers and other valuables in safe storage, while keeping one of my small IT stations and essential gaming and painting supplies within a water proof cart that is easily unfoldable and can be turned into a temporary work space and DMing station wherever I can find power and a wifi signal.
( it is wonderful to live at a time when that can even be said to be an option, and I mention it not because I honestly expect such to be needed, but rather that it is something that can give perspective for anyone facing difficulties that might read this; stress and fear are two of the most fundamental enemies one can face in any endeavour; and this includes miniature painting).
Now, onward! There is paint to be applied!
Indeed, happy to help and yes, there is always more paint to be applied. :)
This was a great demonstration. I took my first NMM class at ReaperCon yesterday. Definatly a technique I want to start practicing. Thanks for they great instruction!
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
I love your flair when adding one of those "simple yet mind blowingly effective" touches. Vince: "Boom, just like that" -> Me: FALL TO MY KNEES IN EPIPHANY
Awesome, happy to help. :)
You’re a genius - a rare one that’s able to explain himself too. Love your videos.
Far too nice, but deeply appreciated and glad I could help.
Vince Venturella watched your video on just get an airbrush. Any suggestions for a very small and very quiet combination? Not price sensitive (within reason)
Incredibly helpful. I'm fairly new to miniature painting, and have had trouble with my NMM attempts. This shows exactly why I'm not getting the results I'm trying for.
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
I've discovered your channel through Serasteros Painting. I was looking for a good brush care video and he reccomended you. I've been binging your hobby cheating and reviews for the last week. Love your work. And this is amazing and the way you explain everything makes things super easy for me.
Thank you, that is quite a compliment as I love Sorastro's Painting and it's awesome that he gave the shout out. I am very glad to hear the techniques were helpful and if you run into any questions or have requests for future vids, always just ask. Thanks for watching and commenting! :)
I also found the channel from a recommendation for the brush care video, from someone in the Luke's APS Facebook group
As soon as those scratches went on my brain was like 'yep, that's metal alright'. Looking forward to trying this.
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
Another fantastic, helpful and really well explained tutorial Vince. Many thx for all your work and effort in making this videos
:)
Thank you very much, glad to hear you found it helpful, that's always the goal :) - Thanks for watching and commenting.
Always do. Keep up the great work :)
Nice video! Very well explained. Think I'll give it a try.
Thank you, happy to help as always.
Vince: *makes a few dabs and makes magic*
Me: *makes those same dabs and makes a hot mess*
One of these days, so help me, I WILL nail NMM, and this video actually went a ways towards decisively de-mystifiying it for me. Thank you, Vince!
Always happy to help, there are more videos in the playlist relating to NMM, so more instruction to be had. :)
Awesome video as always, I found this by chance and this has helped give me a better idea, I bought Vallejo NMM paint set few years ago and gave yet to use ( is it better to use NMM paints or just like you the three you did?) As much as the instruction booklet was informative, seeing this in action was and is way better. I'm off to watch your NMM gold video now, again thanks for posting, l must also say that trick to show damage was an eye opener, seen others do it but you actually explained it thanks for that, as it will definitely be used on my other future armour wearing miniatures.
Honestly, the pre-fab sets can be great for your tones, but no, they are not strictly necessary.
This is amazing video bud :) Best NMM Steel around and also what seems to be one of the more easier ones :) I have a Wonder Woman bust on the way so Il be trying some of this just more reds, oranges and browns.
Excellent, I have a newer one as well here you may want to check out - ruclips.net/video/DL9W74E6r1A/видео.html
@@VinceVenturella brilliant thanks
That is freakin cool! Awesome. I think I will give this a try very soon. Thanks for sharing...
Thank you, glad it was helpful and I look forward to seeing the results :)
Great vid as usual Vince, I have been experimenting with NMM for quite while now and I am slowly starting to get results (thanks impart to your tutorials). You certainly make it look easy lol I think to get the first stage of that armour plate would have taken me over an hour !! lol Copper NMM vid next please sir :-)
Thank you sir, much appreciated. It's just something that comes with practice and working with the paints, no other secret than that :) - Copper is definitely on the list, it's the toughest of all of them for sure.
Looking forward to it :-) Keep up the great work.
Amazing how that damage instantly sells.
It really makes the whole thing pop.
Great tutorial Vince.
Thank you sir, very much appreciated.
Gold is shiny because it's decorative and doesn't corrode but steel is for armor and weapons that get used and banged around.
That was an awesome tutorial, thank you.
Thank you, happy to help as always.
Thanks for the share Vince :D
Thanks for watching as always sir.
Old video - but love your way of explaining. Did my first attempt today, but the blend messes with me. On smaller miniatures, do you just do a dark and light and skip the midtone?
Not really, it would have to be a very small space (like a single very, very, very small scale of scale mail). In most cases, you need the whole gamut. It's one of the reasons NMM is often quite time consuming.
Vince Venturella thanks. I'll keep practicing😊
Hello Vince. I'm trying to do NMM Steel on the shoulder pad of an orc Blood Bowl miniature (3rd) using Vallejo Model Color. Aren't you taking great advantage of the gel like type to paint that Warpaints and Scale 75 have? I mean, shouldn't I add some thinner or retardent when using Model Color because it looks to me that the color never gets really blended on the shoulder pad, but I get streaky brushstroke and one color just covers the previous one. I think I can manage to block in some near black color like in 2:56-3:03 but then I go blank on this NMM. (pun intended)
Yes, to a point you are correct, these are easier to wet blend. With other paints, you may need to apply them thicker and then wet blend, use some retarder as you mention, or combine your layers with glazes. All of those could work.
@@VinceVenturella Hello Vince. I simply can't make it work. Its just a simple should pad and I never get the paints to blend together. Just to do something I have put a white stripe on the top, a Sky Grey on each side of that for the white, further down at the far side of the Sky Grey I have put a Neutral Grey stripe and then a Dark Bluegrey stripe so a to block in something. Now what? Make a Glaze of the Neutral Grey and drag the brush from the bottom of the Dark Bluegrey stripe and up until reaching the Neutral Grey stripe were I retract the brush, let dry and the repeat until smooth? That doesn't feel like a cheat other than I'm cheating my self.
Thanks for this, great video!
Glad to help as always. :)
Thanks, another brilliant tutorial. It looks so easy.
I make decent NMM when painting on paper, but still struggle on small scale minis.
Do you think Daler&Rowney Payne's Gray could be an alternative for hydra blue ink?
Absolutely I do, I use it quite often for various NMM steel effects.
I like the tip about masking mistakes with intentional placement of scratches. Will be keeping it in mind :)
Are warcolors blue-grey line good paints for NMM steel, or are they too blue for this?
They are also good, honestly, one of the things I didn't say (but wish I had) is that you can use a WIDE range of colors for this, all sorts of grey/X paints will work as long as they 1) have a lot of contrast on the model and 2) react properly where the light would reflect. I have done this with all purple paints mixed from Red, White and Blue and got what looks like normal steel. Your eyes will accept a lot of variation because we are so used to seeing slightly colored steel in the real world.
How much faster does Vallejo Model Color dry compared to Warcolours and to Scalecolor?
A fair amount faster, the gel medium does make a difference in this capacity. That being said, retardent is always the answer if you really want to slow things down.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you. That shoulderpad is driving me nuts. I can manage to paint some horizontal stripes over the shoulderpad in mostly black, dark grey, light grey and white but I never manage to blur between two lines and make smooth transitions. The paint dries on me and I have tried with some Dry Retarder. Of course there is something I do wrong but I can't figure out what. Maybe I if took two drops of paint of each colour and put them on the shouldpad, draw the stripes and then it transition between the two. I don't know............. You make it look so easy........... Any advices for me?
I will definitely try this out! And that's a really thorough tutorial, thanks.
Are you using retarder medium in there as well? I don't know if it's the climate or something, but I have had some issue with paints drying too quickly, even when using a wet palette. Sometimes almost drying on the brush on the way to the model (Or at least losing that nice consistency).
Thanks, glad it was helpful. No, no retarder, my office is very cool and low humidity, so that probably explains the difference I would suspect.
I've just started learning NMM and the part I'm really struggling with is placement of the highest points of reflection, particularly on large flat areas e.g. A butchers cleaver. Digging out a handy one and holding it up didn't really help much. Any tips? Also can these processes be used with metallic paints?
My best advice is to image search on places like Putty and Paint and look for pieces that are similar and see how artists have interpreted it. It's the toughest part of NMM for sure. In general, on large flats like that, the angle of the bright reflection can change as it moves, but the easiest way is generally to cut a line across the middle of the flat and create a light catch/flash on one side (usually the lower side or just south of the middle).
Hi Vince, another great video as always!
I've been practising NMM, but I find the hardest part is predicting where the light would hit, where the lightpoints would be. Do you maybe have some tips to figure that out? It looks like you don't even have to think about it :D
It's always the toughest part. I know there are some great image guides out there on reddit and imagr, my advice though is to just Google image search and look at real armor, it can be the best part. Here is a good article on Massive Voodoo about TMM, but they explain the principles of light well - massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2010/02/tutorial-painting-true-metallic-metal.html
Thanks Vince, much appreciated!
What would u do to make those cracks and battle damage if u were doing say dark blue or dark green armor. I'm painting Dark Angels right now and have been curious about this. Would u still do the black then white like u did here?
So for battle damage on other armor, assumingly the armor is enameled, but in general, you just mix a little of your base color with the black (so in this case the green). I would still use a white (or near white with just a touch - a very light touch - of the green).
There was a really nice basic tutorial gallery that was posted over on r/minipainting the other day that I think supplements this video pretty well. It's basically a short image gallery about how to think about about your gradients when doing nmm. For me at least, this helped to connect a couple of the fundamental concepts so that videos like this make more sense, and generally made the idea much less intimidating.
imgur.com/gallery/8Oh0X
Very cool gallery, that also touches on SENMM (or truly catching reflections of the horizon) - that is something I have earmarked to do a whole video on in the future as that is a deep well to explore. Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching as always.
You make it look so easy.. lol
It's just practice and time, The more you do it, the more you are able to balance it out and blend it smoothly. :)
I'll keep at it... lol Great video.
What model is that ?
It's a goblin bust from Rackham, don't think it's still available (though it might be around 2nd hand) - one of my favorite busts of all time.
love your videos! gotta say, though, your intro/outro is a little loud.
Yes, I think the volume varies on that for some and not others but I have heard that before. I have tried some different settings and it still varies. I will have to mess with it some more. Glad the videos are helpful as always.
Great tutorial! But I am really having a hard time getting past the whole "brush licking" thing. I've seen a number of other painters do that too, so I realize it's not a one-off idiosyncrasy. And paints "say" they are non-toxic, but..... It's almost like scratching a chalkboard every time I hear the lick on the audio. My problem, not yours, clearly, but......yuck! Nonetheless, keep the videos coming-- I can always turn down the sound here and there. :-)
It's something I never did, now I can't live without it. If you want a good alternative, keep a wet sponge near your painting area and sort of drag your brush horizontally along it while rotating, you will achieve the same effect for the most part.
I 😍 you
Thanks. :)