When I started climbing they told me to put them on and sit with them in a footbath for an hour to wear them in. Not sure if it really works. I'm a trad climber and don't really press grades. I have a damaged foot after an accident but try to by comfy shoes considering the shape of my foot.
How long term is your recovery process? If it is somewhat temporary it may not be too bad to embrace the crappier shoes for a little while as long as you feel it isn’t creating additional risk. I didn’t have great shoes for a while when I was starting out and I honestly think it made me a stronger climber in a few ways. Slippy feet can be frustrating but it can also force you to really focus on being intentional with your placement. When I had bad shoes I learned how to catch the swing, maintain tension, and campus through a variety of problems. Maybe you could use this as a bit of a reset period to hone a couple of techniques in your arsenal? This isn’t to say having worse fitting shoes is a good thing, just that there’s a couple of silver linings.
It’s something I’ll have to live with forever. I’ll eventually need a total ankle and talus replacement. As the doctor’s said…”it was a life-changing injury.” I wish on everything it was temporary because I love bouldering but know the clock is probably running out. But if I have to stick with the crappy shoe…so be it. Just want to be on the wall as long as I can.
When I started climbing they told me to put them on and sit with them in a footbath for an hour to wear them in. Not sure if it really works. I'm a trad climber and don't really press grades. I have a damaged foot after an accident but try to by comfy shoes considering the shape of my foot.
I feel that. I plan to transition to more outdoor ropes soon. But that’s for the suggestion, I’ll try the foot bath instead of the shower. 🤞🏾it works.
How long term is your recovery process? If it is somewhat temporary it may not be too bad to embrace the crappier shoes for a little while as long as you feel it isn’t creating additional risk.
I didn’t have great shoes for a while when I was starting out and I honestly think it made me a stronger climber in a few ways. Slippy feet can be frustrating but it can also force you to really focus on being intentional with your placement. When I had bad shoes I learned how to catch the swing, maintain tension, and campus through a variety of problems. Maybe you could use this as a bit of a reset period to hone a couple of techniques in your arsenal?
This isn’t to say having worse fitting shoes is a good thing, just that there’s a couple of silver linings.
It’s something I’ll have to live with forever. I’ll eventually need a total ankle and talus replacement. As the doctor’s said…”it was a life-changing injury.” I wish on everything it was temporary because I love bouldering but know the clock is probably running out. But if I have to stick with the crappy shoe…so be it. Just want to be on the wall as long as I can.