I'm somewhat confused I know the red wire goes to the accessory and the black wire short wire is a negative but what about the other wire black wire does that wire go into the pigtail on your factory alternator part where you hook the alternator into the factory connector are you supposed to hook something else into it instead of just leaving it
I was going to order this for my 2015 ford explorer which is my daily but can you explain you made a statement that you unplug it when you are not doing demos. How would I go about using this as I its my daily. Is there just a power switch on it? If I turn it off what would happen as im driving?
I keep mine unplugged because I noticed because it keeps your alternator working all the time at higher percentages. When I have it dialed down it's not adequate. Got tired of driving and playing with it all the time. not to mention performance and gas mileage
Yes. And be careful using the controller I wouldn’t go past 80%. Just a heads up your alt will work a lot harder. I only plug mine in when I’m about to compete
I don't have the harness but one video a guy said cut the tan wire on the alternator and tie into the factory tan wire but I tried that and it didn't work for me. How do you get the harness
Hey bro I know this is an older video but I have been locked up for awhile just got out recently and started on my build in my daily driver/compete car i ordered my alternator a 290 from autotech and I was told to run a PCM bypass test where you unplug your wiring harness and start your car drive around and basically that's what you get with the swap to a HO on the pcm controlled charging system now to start off my 19 Camry charges at 13.8 if im driving for any more than 20-30 minutes i can hold 14-14.1 steady with all the wiring upgrades and lithium on my STOCK alternator right now anyway im wondering if I will see something like what you are seeing where instead of charging around 15.8 it will be around 15.2-15.3 reason I ask is because when I did the test I actually didn't get a battery light or any kind of charging system malfunction indicator nothing like that my car ran normal at first and then I finally noticed that my voltage wouldn't go above 13.5 no matter what I do and I have heard of other people having these issues were no matter what they do they can't charge above the low 15's i haven't received the alternator yet but im wondering if you can give me some insight on the topic and did you experience anything like this ir did you do the bypass test before
So if it’s a 2pin plug in to the alternator does it work with for example a mechman alternator or it only works with the brand x alternators? Was thinking about trying it but I got a 2pin mechman alternator not a brand x one
It’s been a while since I played with it. Next time I go to the car I will take a peek at the plug so I can be 100% w you. I believe it’s controlled with one wire you can make your own pigtail. Yeah I got you on some info soon as I can. I don’t want to give you the wrong info and look crazy at the same time ✌️🔊
Hey bro, great video! Hey you mentioned the pwm wire going to the alt...but what did you do with the other wire on the alt? Wasn't it a 2 wire plug on the alt?
Thanks for the video, but I'm confused. When you bump up to higher than the nominal 14.4 volts, aren't you worried about damaging electronics? (Yes, I'm the guy wearing the thick glasses and pocked protector). I also don't quite understand the advantage between the nominal 14.4 and 15 volts. Also, I'm very sure you aren't creating 600 to 1000 amps with a car alternator. Maybe you are running dual or triple alternators?
Vehicle electronics are pretty well known to be stable to at least 16v, Newer vehicles usually have a over voltage protection circuit in the ecu , bcm, sir, ect What are you referencing 600-1000A off of and such a big swing? The alternator don't need to supply that high of amperage to a huge amplifier, that is why we have battery banks. Of course it's better to have as much reserve as possible from your alt/s but you are not constantly consuming lets say 1000A on a 10,000 watt amp even though it has the potential of drawing that much. When the bass note isn't playing that's when the alternator can replenish your battery reserve. as to advantage of higher voltage, well the higher the voltage the more amperage can flow.
They're mainly to stop amps from overvoltage whenever the alternator tries to send the voltage higher than 16v with newer Chevies and fords. My truck does it when it's cold outside and constantly throws my amplifier into protect because it tries to hit right at 16v when I start my truck or accelerate too much. Lot of new vehicles have this problem that or it tries to dip too low.
My question is if you turn it off while you are not going ham on your system. Does it still throw codes to your dash? And will the alt still charge you up to your set voltage?
I’ve never had a battery light. I got a check engine light after running it at 80% for a while I can really feel that load as well. Check eng. light only happens at idle though. When I’m not in the lanes or if it’s not really needed I keep it unplugged
@@bigvell02 gotcha. I got mine plugged in and it's running. Don't do much out of town with it yet. But I think I felt drag earlier 😆 and I'm sure it's cuz I was charging my lithuim high. Much appreciated
It doesn't run all the time think of duty cycle as on cycle. If you at 70% duty cycle basically means for every sec it's only operating for .7 sec with a cool off of .3
There's no need to fear the 1st squad is here wooohooo to save the day much love and respect for you brotha
How would I use this with a 2 wire alternator
Thancks nice veido I learned alot.
Appreciate ya, just ordered mines from brand x, that after market ALT and that pcm don't mix
I'm somewhat confused I know the red wire goes to the accessory and the black wire short wire is a negative but what about the other wire black wire does that wire go into the pigtail on your factory alternator part where you hook the alternator into the factory connector are you supposed to hook something else into it instead of just leaving it
@@terryboyd9551 ground
I was going to order this for my 2015 ford explorer which is my daily but can you explain you made a statement that you unplug it when you are not doing demos. How would I go about using this as I its my daily. Is there just a power switch on it? If I turn it off what would happen as im driving?
I keep mine unplugged because I noticed because it keeps your alternator working all the time at higher percentages. When I have it dialed down it's not adequate. Got tired of driving and playing with it all the time. not to mention performance and gas mileage
Heck yea. I got the same one. Might start putting stuff in tomorrow
Nice.. it’s pretty slick I just don’t run it all the time.
@@bigvell02 that's probably a good idea. I was curious how to set it up for daily. Thanks for the tips
Met you at slam we was talking bout the Malibus bro u funny fr 😂😂but like always Preciate the info.
Yes and sir it was dope meeting you and definitely good times. Peace and Bass bro 💯😎✌️🔊
Should i put the altenator on before the controller?
Yes. And be careful using the controller I wouldn’t go past 80%. Just a heads up your alt will work a lot harder. I only plug mine in when I’m about to compete
so the black wire coming off of the harness goes to pwm+ or pwm- on the controller
So I have mine plugged in and my battery still says low/ battery saver on. How exactly do I get that light off? 2019 impala LT 3.6
I 100% should've paid attention to when you said thr fuse thing didn't work
Where does the wire from controller to the alt
Run your sense wire to the pwm controller
I don't have the harness but one video a guy said cut the tan wire on the alternator and tie into the factory tan wire but I tried that and it didn't work for me. How do you get the harness
Hey bro I know this is an older video but I have been locked up for awhile just got out recently and started on my build in my daily driver/compete car i ordered my alternator a 290 from autotech and I was told to run a PCM bypass test where you unplug your wiring harness and start your car drive around and basically that's what you get with the swap to a HO on the pcm controlled charging system now to start off my 19 Camry charges at 13.8 if im driving for any more than 20-30 minutes i can hold 14-14.1 steady with all the wiring upgrades and lithium on my STOCK alternator right now anyway im wondering if I will see something like what you are seeing where instead of charging around 15.8 it will be around 15.2-15.3 reason I ask is because when I did the test I actually didn't get a battery light or any kind of charging system malfunction indicator nothing like that my car ran normal at first and then I finally noticed that my voltage wouldn't go above 13.5 no matter what I do and I have heard of other people having these issues were no matter what they do they can't charge above the low 15's i haven't received the alternator yet but im wondering if you can give me some insight on the topic and did you experience anything like this ir did you do the bypass test before
is this for any high output alternator?
Awesome video explaining these! I run one of these as well and it works great!
How do you find out what frequency to use?
Its on the info u get with the alternator
.ford os 100 or 128
Gm ,120
Do you know what it is for Honda?
Can I hook this up to my stock alternator
I wouldn’t suggest it
@@bigvell02 okay
So if it’s a 2pin plug in to the alternator does it work with for example a mechman alternator or it only works with the brand x alternators? Was thinking about trying it but I got a 2pin mechman alternator not a brand x one
It’s been a while since I played with it. Next time I go to the car I will take a peek at the plug so I can be 100% w you. I believe it’s controlled with one wire you can make your own pigtail. Yeah I got you on some info soon as I can. I don’t want to give you the wrong info and look crazy at the same time ✌️🔊
Sense wire goes to pwm
Hey bro, great video! Hey you mentioned the pwm wire going to the alt...but what did you do with the other wire on the alt? Wasn't it a 2 wire plug on the alt?
The other wire is taken care of inside the pigtail. Just a heads up I only plug it up when I’m in the lanes. It does cause your alt to work harder
Brother I need help I just installed mine but it my voltage stay the same
What brand alt do you have?
Thanks for the video, but I'm confused. When you bump up to higher than the nominal 14.4 volts, aren't you worried about damaging electronics? (Yes, I'm the guy wearing the thick glasses and pocked protector). I also don't quite understand the advantage between the nominal 14.4 and 15 volts. Also, I'm very sure you aren't creating 600 to 1000 amps with a car alternator. Maybe you are running dual or triple alternators?
Vehicle electronics are pretty well known to be stable to at least 16v, Newer vehicles usually have a over voltage protection circuit in the ecu , bcm, sir, ect
What are you referencing 600-1000A off of and such a big swing? The alternator don't need to supply that high of amperage to a huge amplifier, that is why we have battery banks. Of course it's better to have as much reserve as possible from your alt/s but you are not constantly consuming lets say 1000A on a 10,000 watt amp even though it has the potential of drawing that much. When the bass note isn't playing that's when the alternator can replenish your battery reserve.
as to advantage of higher voltage, well the higher the voltage the more amperage can flow.
It’s the batteries, you get significantly more power at 15.2 volts than 14.2 voltas. Especially lithium
Cars can handle up to roughly 18v the car is truly ran on a 5v system.
They're mainly to stop amps from overvoltage whenever the alternator tries to send the voltage higher than 16v with newer Chevies and fords. My truck does it when it's cold outside and constantly throws my amplifier into protect because it tries to hit right at 16v when I start my truck or accelerate too much. Lot of new vehicles have this problem that or it tries to dip too low.
What's that Grey/ white wire to the +on the alt?
Normally a gray wire is an exciter wire, which it triggers the alt to charge without signal it will not know when to charge and not charge
My question is if you turn it off while you are not going ham on your system. Does it still throw codes to your dash? And will the alt still charge you up to your set voltage?
I’ve never had a battery light. I got a check engine light after running it at 80% for a while I can really feel that load as well. Check eng. light only happens at idle though. When I’m not in the lanes or if it’s not really needed I keep it unplugged
@@bigvell02 gotcha. I got mine plugged in and it's running. Don't do much out of town with it yet. But I think I felt drag earlier 😆 and I'm sure it's cuz I was charging my lithuim high. Much appreciated
Can i use a 12v ignition to power the module?
I wouldn’t recommend it unless you use a relay
@@bigvell02 okay thanks for the heads up brotha
What wire does the pwm control go to on the alt?
Sense
Were you bay the PWM controller
BrandX
The auto tech one is 100 % better !!!
It doesn't run all the time think of duty cycle as on cycle. If you at 70% duty cycle basically means for every sec it's only operating for .7 sec with a cool off of .3
Thank you Nathan, was waiting for someone to say this.
What car you run that in fam ?
It’s in a 09 Chev Malibu and GM with a PCM controlled alt, Ford etc
I got a 10 that jumps voltage from 14.7 down to 12.8 then later it’ll go back to 14.6-7 will adding that fix it ?
@@bigvell02 I’m running 2 evl 12s from scar on a taramps 5k dual battery in the trunk but on stock alt at the moment
That’s your PCM being stubborn. It would work but ideally I would get a aftermarket alt with it.
Yeah that stock alt working hard no doubt,
GM is 128 hz my man
I whant to conect that n my car
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