I just followed your connection instructions and bam it’s working just like yours is. Late model alternator on a 454 running Holley efi!!! Thank you so much I’m sure this will fix many other problems I’ve had!
Did you purchase same exact step down converter? I tried last night, had a different brand one since I was able to get same day, didn’t work for me. No change when changing the Duty Cycle. Module fired up perfect. Set it to 128HZ but no change. Wired into proper alternator connector. This is a 2015 Camaro Alternator. OEM GM.
Just so everyone knows if you're being cheap pretty much all USB sources put out 5v along with the terminator has a 5v source. I was being lazy and used a USB of the back of my radio and it works flawlessly. Thanks man!
@@justinwillard7066 you are right, a USB port does have an output of 5 volts plus or minus 0.25 volts, however, I wasn't sure how much current draw this device was going to need so I didn't want to limit myself 3/4 of an amp or 1 amp or whatever that might be, I wanted something that was dedicated and didn't want to roll the dice, but if it does work great, that's good news and good to know.
@@601Volvo does it haft to be a 5v source? What would happen if it was ran off of straight 12v? Does the pwm put out what voltage it has running to it?
@@andysims6478 the pwm device passes through what's fed into it. Can the alternator handle 12v? That I'm not sure of, but the OEM computer output 5v, at 12v I'd think you would cook the input into the alternator, but that's speculation.
Following up. I was reading about these alternators and it seems that the they default to about 13.7 vdc anyway... so even if some of these support components failed the alternator would at least still function. I found that good to know.
You could assign a PWM output from the terminator X to the alternator. You then set up a graph on the output Voltage vs pwm output. Use the Terminator X for a voltage regulator. Set up battery voltage as an input and PWM to the alt as an output.
Yesssuh! I get it and like 10 bucks for the part. I just really thought there was a way to make it work but there's not unless you wanna go through all the changing of the regulator and soldering and crap and basically ending up with the same alternator you just took off. Kinda defeats the purpose doesn't it? Least now you can control the power when adding accessories and that's the point being a higher amp alternator especially running more than one battery. So yes I will be the PART of ebay to runs this awesome alternator. Thank you for confirming this as I had my doubts.
I wish I had you here to help with my alternator generators. I've got CS high output alternators and have the two wire pigtail, but I'm still having problems, duh..... The light wire has a resistor in it then goes to an idiot light then on to a illuminated toggle switch. Sound right?
Thanks for posting this, I am in the middle of sorting mine out as well. The Terminator has alternator control in the ECU config under basic I/O tab.. Select custom and you can configure PWM table for voltage over duty cycle. I gives a PWM- output only on output B10. I am using a 5v cigarette USB charger as the source voltage and a resistor between the Holley and 5v source wire.. What voltage reading are you getting on your control wire at the alternator 2 pin plug when its charging around 14.3v?
I have read that the range on these is 10-90% but I've also read that it's 5-95%. Can you test the voltage output at 94-95%? Is that in the diag range or does it go above 15.5v
I have an aftermarket HO 250 amp alternator. Uses the factory 2 pin GM plug. 2006 Silverado 5.3L. Since I have the factory 2 pin plug, what do you suggest to use for a plug that won’t cause the battery light to illuminate on my dash?
so I have an 03 yukon xl that has the volts ranging between 14v & 8v & it gets so bad that it will want to stall out at lower rpms... Can i run this conversion & it will bypass the whole PCM charge thingy you explained? I cant believe this aint ran off a fuse so it just blows the fuse if need be. I do not have 100% understand of it, but I want to bypass the PCM... it doesnt seem like rocket science & is the route/conversion I need to do?
@@roymoore2944 so yeah your '03 has the 4-wire alternator, I have an 03 Z71 suburban and it has that. Now with a four-wire alternator like you have. All you need is the pigtail with the single wire that references the 12-volt system and it will self-regulate through a loop that way. You can make the four-wire alternator run independently for $20. That's what the majority of people do rather than running this two-wire alternator that needs a pulse width modulation signal. Before I went through the efforts of removing the current alternator for another one and then having to do this, I would troubleshoot the current issue to see if maybe you have a grounding issue or a failing alternator.
The factory ECU communicated to the alternator via 5v signal... Can it handle 12v? Maybe, but you might cook the input.. I was only replicating the signal designed for it.
I was experimenting with an output to try to drive my speedometer, I think the only available output left for me was a pwm - and I was trying to use a pull down resistor to make the square wave.
Rozumiem, że fabryczna wtyczka była 4-pinowa i podłączona była tylko 1-pinowa. Opis fabryczny to "P L IF S" i używany jest tylko kod PIN o nazwie "IF". Dobrze rozumiem?
I tried what you did but on Honda accord 1998 with a 4 pin alternator and it didn’t work. Do I have to leave the computer wires connected to the alternator 4 pin connector or do I disconnect the computer wires from the 4 pin alternator connector?
![KSI - Dirty [Official Visualiser]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoDh1h1dPUE/mqdefault.jpg)
Dude, I'm so glad you did this video and so glad I found you.
Glad to help bro!
I just followed your connection instructions and bam it’s working just like yours is. Late model alternator on a 454 running Holley efi!!! Thank you so much I’m sure this will fix many other problems I’ve had!
Cool, glad to hear it!
Did you purchase same exact step down converter? I tried last night, had a different brand one since I was able to get same day, didn’t work for me. No change when changing the Duty Cycle. Module fired up perfect. Set it to 128HZ but no change. Wired into proper alternator connector. This is a 2015 Camaro Alternator. OEM GM.
@@johnnyb305mia what model is that alternator that you are using?
@@601VolvoP/N is 13597233
I just finished this up and it works perfectly. 14.6 volts now.🤘🏼
Awesome, glad it worked out. The first pwm I bought was defective, had to order another.
Just so everyone knows if you're being cheap pretty much all USB sources put out 5v along with the terminator has a 5v source. I was being lazy and used a USB of the back of my radio and it works flawlessly. Thanks man!
@@justinwillard7066 you are right, a USB port does have an output of 5 volts plus or minus 0.25 volts, however, I wasn't sure how much current draw this device was going to need so I didn't want to limit myself 3/4 of an amp or 1 amp or whatever that might be, I wanted something that was dedicated and didn't want to roll the dice, but if it does work great, that's good news and good to know.
@@601Volvo does it haft to be a 5v source? What would happen if it was ran off of straight 12v? Does the pwm put out what voltage it has running to it?
@@andysims6478 the pwm device passes through what's fed into it. Can the alternator handle 12v? That I'm not sure of, but the OEM computer output 5v, at 12v I'd think you would cook the input into the alternator, but that's speculation.
@@601Volvo I wonder if could run the pwm off of the stock ecu\pcu wire running to the alternator
Following up. I was reading about these alternators and it seems that the they default to about 13.7 vdc anyway... so even if some of these support components failed the alternator would at least still function. I found that good to know.
Mine without a regulator wire ran at 13.6v, but with my accessories running, it was barely keeping the battery charged.
You could assign a PWM output from the terminator X to the alternator. You then set up a graph on the output Voltage vs pwm output. Use the Terminator X for a voltage regulator. Set up battery voltage as an input and PWM to the alt as an output.
True, but this might come in handy if you're out of d/o or if you're using another system.
@@601Volvo Yes, good hack
Yesssuh! I get it and like 10 bucks for the part. I just really thought there was a way to make it work but there's not unless you wanna go through all the changing of the regulator and soldering and crap and basically ending up with the same alternator you just took off. Kinda defeats the purpose doesn't it? Least now you can control the power when adding accessories and that's the point being a higher amp alternator especially running more than one battery. So yes I will be the PART of ebay to runs this awesome alternator. Thank you for confirming this as I had my doubts.
I wish I had you here to help with my alternator generators.
I've got CS high output alternators and have the two wire pigtail, but I'm still having problems, duh.....
The light wire has a resistor in it then goes to an idiot light then on to a illuminated toggle switch.
Sound right?
Great video man!
Great video!
Thanks Kevin.
Thanks for posting this, I am in the middle of sorting mine out as well. The Terminator has alternator control in the ECU config under basic I/O tab.. Select custom and you can configure PWM table for voltage over duty cycle. I gives a PWM- output only on output B10. I am using a 5v cigarette USB charger as the source voltage and a resistor between the Holley and 5v source wire.. What voltage reading are you getting on your control wire at the alternator 2 pin plug when its charging around 14.3v?
Think you could do a video on a GM CS AD244 alternator?
Good idea. I like it
Many thanks. So- a DC TO DC Converter and the Signal Generator? Do you have part number for the DC-DC converter?
I don't, but if you go on eBay and type in - Better Waterproof DC-DC Converter 12V Step Down to 5V Power Supply Module 3A 15W. It will pop up.
Thanks. Another questrion: What 12 vdc source do you use? A "switched source' (via key), or constant 12 vdc from a battery source?
It's probably safer to use a switched source. I haven't tested yet if there is any idle current draw by that regulator.
I have read that the range on these is 10-90% but I've also read that it's 5-95%. Can you test the voltage output at 94-95%? Is that in the diag range or does it go above 15.5v
I have another question. Should the 12vdc source have power in START and RUN? Or just in RUN. Or is either way ok?
@@silvernblackattach it only technically needs power while the alternator is spinning.
@601Volvo many thanks
I have an aftermarket HO 250 amp alternator. Uses the factory 2 pin GM plug. 2006 Silverado 5.3L.
Since I have the factory 2 pin plug, what do you suggest to use for a plug that won’t cause the battery light to illuminate on my dash?
so I have an 03 yukon xl that has the volts ranging between 14v & 8v & it gets so bad that it will want to stall out at lower rpms... Can i run this conversion & it will bypass the whole PCM charge thingy you explained? I cant believe this aint ran off a fuse so it just blows the fuse if need be. I do not have 100% understand of it, but I want to bypass the PCM... it doesnt seem like rocket science & is the route/conversion I need to do?
@@roymoore2944 so yeah your '03 has the 4-wire alternator, I have an 03 Z71 suburban and it has that. Now with a four-wire alternator like you have. All you need is the pigtail with the single wire that references the 12-volt system and it will self-regulate through a loop that way. You can make the four-wire alternator run independently for $20. That's what the majority of people do rather than running this two-wire alternator that needs a pulse width modulation signal. Before I went through the efforts of removing the current alternator for another one and then having to do this, I would troubleshoot the current issue to see if maybe you have a grounding issue or a failing alternator.
why did you need the 12v to 5v converter?
The factory ECU communicated to the alternator via 5v signal... Can it handle 12v? Maybe, but you might cook the input.. I was only replicating the signal designed for it.
@@601Volvo could you use the 5v from the terminator power tap?
@@koltonroy8191 some people say you can, but I don't have the details on that.
I was experimenting with an output to try to drive my speedometer, I think the only available output left for me was a pwm - and I was trying to use a pull down resistor to make the square wave.
Rozumiem, że fabryczna wtyczka była 4-pinowa i podłączona była tylko 1-pinowa. Opis fabryczny to "P L IF S" i używany jest tylko kod PIN o nazwie "IF". Dobrze rozumiem?
That is a different model alternator.
I tried what you did but on Honda accord 1998 with a 4 pin alternator and it didn’t work. Do I have to leave the computer wires connected to the alternator 4 pin connector or do I disconnect the computer wires from the 4 pin alternator connector?
This procedure will only work on a two-pin alternator, a four-pin alternator works a completely different way.
👍😎
i gave this a try and it worked for a few minutes but stopped working. Any suggestions?
See what died, power supply, pwm, or Alt
Maaf saya tidak bisa bahasa inggris.
Darimana kita tau 128herzt?
Apakah sama semua mobil?
This is only for the GM alternator I believe.