What engine should we review next? If you want to see more OM606 goodness, check out @dieselpumpuk, @blacksmokeracing, @dumbluckcustomz, @teamboosted, and @dieselmeken we think they're doing some really cool stuff! The Bosch fuel pumps referenced at 7:02 are rebuilds by Yankee Diesel, Inc. and can be found at: yankeedieselinc.com/products/0400076992/ (mechanical) & yankeedieselinc.com/products/0400196003/ (electronic)
1. The plastic connectors are prone to breaking but are cheap to replace. They are also a source for air to get into the fuel system. 1.5 the rubber hoses that goes between the injectors should also be replaced, or else you will have a diesel leak that fills up the hole where the injector sits. 2. To get the pins out that hold the plastic guide you would first use a tap to clean out the threads in the pin (m6x1 if i remember correctly). Then you would use a sliding hammer to pull each pin out. 3. The pure mechanical pumps only comes from the 601,602 and 603 engines that has 2 valves per cylinder and all the 604,605 and 606 has the EDC electric pump. 3. The bolt that holds the main pulley is only made out of 8.8 material. This bolt should be replaced by a 10.9 or 12.9 bolt. They used to use a better quality bolt for the 601,602 and 603 engines so if you take a pump from a 603 for example you should also take that bolt. Tips for upgrading your engine for making big power: - Get a hold of originial turbo pistons and rods or get aftermarket ones - Buy or make a girdle plate for the bottom end, either 10 or 12mm would be good. You will have to make a longer chain for the oil pump and a spacer for the pump so it still reaches down in the sump. - Send your injectors off for testing and upgrading. Originally they open at about 110 bars of pressure but you get a much better running engine if you increase the opening pressure to about 150 bar. With this mod you also decrease the injection period, wich is long enough when you want to make alot of power on these engines. - If you want to rev high (6000-6500 rpm) you should upgrade the springs to stiffer ones. You can get a complete set from a 320cdi engine. You should also weld the sprockets to the end of your camshaft at this point because the increased resistance can make the sprockets break the guide pin and slip on the cam. - i would not use the p pump for this build. Get a hold of a stock M pump from a 603, preferably a RS203 pump. And ship that over to Dieselmeken to get it setup for your application. He can also supply an original pump. You get a lifetime warranty on the pump and he is also the expert when it comes to om606 engines and diesel engines in general. - I would go for a turbo thats bigger than the HX35, because the only time i have seen bent rods in these engines is when you have too much charge pressure at a low rpm. For example 2.5 bar at 2500rpm is more dangerous than if you have 2.5 bar at 3500rpm. A good choice of turbo is the Borg warner 200sx-e or Holset HX40. Also very important to have a large enough exhaust after the turbo to keep the egt low. Pistons will melt if you have egt of 850-900°C for a period longer than 30-60 seconds. - If you want even more power and cooler egt you can add a water/meth injection system on it. These tips are for making your engine completely "bulletproof". If you just want to make some power and see how long it will last then just do the Dieselmeken pump and a turbo upgrade. Hope this helps making your build easier, you will be suprised by the power of this little guy. Let me know if i can help some more 🙂
Yeah M6 or M5 for the pins. Don't need a puller, just an extra nut and a socket + washer and push the socket down with the nut while keeping the bolt from moving. Should pop right out.
Yes and also some S124 has 606 with mechanical pump. But mainly its the 603 that has the good pumps. I would not recommend the screw and nut method because the hardest part is getting the pins to start moving, and you can strip the threads more easily that way. But if you dont have a sliding hammer it usually works fine. In both cases they should be replaced with new pins.
I bought an OM602 on Craigslist for $60 couple years ago.. after I got it home I tried to start it and the bugger ran away on me! I had a plate to block the intake but little did I know there was a missing EGR pipe that allowed it to keep getting plenty of air. Vomited it's oil out the dipstick tube like a pressure washer, made made a godawful mess. Ironically after it stopped after it ran out of oil to burn, but wasn't seized up! Head was warped like 2-3mm though sadly. Oh well, most excitement I've ever gotten for $60!! 😂
There’s something special about seeing an engine I’ve had in my possession being torn down professionally on yt. Thanks for calling me when you did Rich! Nobody deserved this hunk more then you, and I’m exited to see what it becomes!!!
@@MrSh31by The Germans at MB work by the hour, Rich gets paid for the amount of work he actually gets done. I'm sure if he was getting an hourly wage hed dress up in a pretty white MB short and have his nitro gloves on
I put one in my sprinter, 4 years ago, runs 500hp, it’s my daily, and it’s never missed a beat, and doesn’t piss oil and diesel everywhere like the old om611 did.
Love Sprinters, they're everything a fuel-sucking, asthmatic old gasser American van (that you can't even stand tf up in) could only dream of being. Even the new American vans (which are just stolen from their European variants) seem to not offer diesels or charge like 20k for it. Mercedes did it right... ONLY offer diesel, and a proper modern diesel too!
@@dregenius The Chevy van came with the 6.6L Duramax and now is available with the 2.8L Duramax. The Sprinter is fine but it is definitely not what every van should be.
@@dregenius The MB diesel is great - their DEF system, not so great. Not that anybody's is, but the MB system is pretty expensive when it fails. The countdown to zero starts isn't too popular among owners. Otherwise the Sprinters are good.
Rich you fantastic SOB, I have never clicked on a video so fast. Here are some other things you might want to know: -The turbo 606's also had oil squirters, which squirt oil up through a gallery in the piston. This is what allows them to run super high boost, but oil cooling is really important with that -There is a guy named Baldur who sells a controller and wiring harness for the electronic pumps. It's totally tunable kinda like EFILive, I know it's not mechanical but just something to consider -For the naming, the OM601/2/3 are the 4/5/6 cylinder earlier SOHC engines that had head issues. OM604/5/6 are the 4/5/6 cylinder DOHC engines. OM stands for "Oel Motor", literally an engine that runs on oil Looking forward to this one!
All OM604-606 have oil squirters. For OM601-603 only turbo models and some random N/A models have them. Biggest difference between N/A and turbo OM605-606 is Wrist pin size, connecting rod, cams, head gasket. Also OM601 is 2.0 or 2.3 and OM604 is 2.2 (some super rare OM604 are 2.0. But never the less block is slightly different than om601) OM602 vs 605 and OM603 vs 606 are more similar than OM601 vs OM604.
Your fuel pump is actually the vacuum pump on the front of the engine. The pins for the timing chain rail have 6 mm threads in them to install a bolt and use a slide hammer to pull them out of the head. It’s funny watching you and Scott tear the OM 606 down since I took an OM 603 apart yesterday. Also in case you are wondering what the OM means. OM- Ölmotor
Yes! This guy knows his Öelmotors! (Oil-motor, aka diesel) Vacuum pumps occasionally leak their bearing balls into timing chain too.. preemptively replace or gut the pump. Fun story: I did a complete autopsy on an OM602 I got for $60 on Craigslist that ran away when I tried to start it. Most excitement I've ever gotten for $60! 😂😂😂
Yup. Wanted to see if someone else made this comment before I did. Also worth mentioning that these vacuum pumps are one minor Achilles heel of the OM60x as the bearings on the vacuum pump's cam follower can have the cage break and since they're open bearings, the balls will drop (so to speak lolol) into the timing chain area... worth replacing if you plan to use the pump. If not, just rip the guts of the pump out and use the shell to plug the hole and call it a day. Lol
Some 30ish years back when Mercedes was building motors for its DTM teams, they were going out and offering to buy certain cars (with 2.3l 4-cyl gas motors) from private owners so they could get the blocks. They would gut the motor down to the short block and do a full race build on it, but because the blocks had been heat cycled so many times from regular driving on the roads, they were extremely stable and tolerated racing well. In the 80s and 90s, they were cranking 300+ NA horsepower out of what were Mercedes-Benz lowest end, cheapest engines. They were built that well. Just one of those factory freaks that comes around once every so often.
Those semi mechanical pumps can be modified to the same speck as the mech. ones but need an aftermarket ecu to be controlled like a baldur dsl 1 that costs about 600€ and is mainly used for this exact purpose. Many consider this setup better also because of more control of fueling.
chipping only works for stock 6mm elemts and stock engine config, no one makes chips for custom pump and turbo setups and yes this is the right edc pump to use
@@777xpressmusic yes na model has 5.5mm elemets and the go to turbo version has 6mm. They use either a mechanical pump or a aftermarket ecu and an edc pump with those 7.5mm elements
As you can tell from my profilepicture i know my mercs. The sqaure nut found in the head is for the lid of the airintake box. When you crank the om606s up for power you want the N/A cams just make sure to insert an extra pin cuz they are prone to twist the gear. The turbo version got thicker vristpins and rods. And the thingy that holds to chainguide you have to thread in a m4 bolt i think it was and pull it straight out. On the SOHC versions as om601/2/3 the pin goes through the head towards the first injector and are prone to leak oil there if you removed the pin once, telling from experience.. Get in contact with Dieselmeken AB in sweden, they build the best pumps for these engines, period!
4:02 thats actually the vacuum pump! Its one of the main dangerous failure points in these engines, especially the older OM601,2,3 series. They had exposed ball bearings in the older pumps that if they failed, would shoot into the timing case, jump into the timing chain and skip teeth, causing catastrophic engine failure at about 200000kms.
Had one doing it at 25k km a few years ago, but must say it stood for about 12 years after original owner died. Bought it from his widow, a 1992 200d with 4 speed. Car was brand new and stood in heated garage, but standing is not what it liked obviously, and started it back up, 300 km's later that happened....
@@aaronhall7740 absolutely, I've seen this design on the camshaft gear of an Isuzu diesel. I think VW also used it on the completely gear driven i5 PD TDI in the Bus and Touareg as well as the 2.8 i4 TDI made by MWM in the second gem LT van to take out the slop in the valve train.
Sorry that's not correct, at leat not for the 601-606 series engines, those spring-loaded wheels are timing advance mechanisms, the advance pumptiming with rising rpms. Those engines couldn't operate in such a broad range of rpm without any advance mechanism 😜
I watched this while sitting in my 606 swapped Dodge ram lol. But watching you guys tear this down made my day, and I laughed where you guys needed special tools and didnt know it. The pins in the head can be removed with a socket, a bolt and a nut. Also both pins nees to be removed to remove the head.
@@jimmahoney788 No adapter. Running the Mercedes transmission with an Ofgear TCU and made my own mounts. But that truck was involved in an accident. The swap now lives in my 1995 Ford F350 CCLB.
Yhere is a guy in Sweden there building diesel pump for Mercedes. 650bhp is no problem. Stock crank and rods. New exhaust manifold. Custom intake. BIG intecooler and turbo... beefy oilcooler. Wire goove in the block around the cylinders to make max pressure on the head gasket. Good luck🇸🇯🇸🇯👍👍👍
Mercedes timing chains are generally riveted. Pretty cool process of cutting the chain, attaching a new chain to the old chain with a temporary link and then spinning the engine over with special fixtures to keep tension on the gears and then riveting the new chain. Explains why the guides are not easily removed
Most Mercedes chain guides are held in by pins you push in from the outside. They are usually drilled and tapped and you use a bolt to pull them straight out
I just bought a Merc (S211) with a OM642 in it. I chose that engine because I used to drive a Merc van with the same engine, it wasn't spared and when I left that job it had 600.000km on it and still doing fantastic with zero issues.
Those “lifters/pushers” look like what I knew to be Hydraulic Lash Adjusters & on the Mazdas I used to work on, the cam lobes are offset so that as they turn on the HLAs, they actually rotate/swivel in the cylinders, so that wear & noise is minimal.
@@kennedy796 Yup, and BMW have used them for probably 20 years before that as well. I guess it's only really the Americans that haven't evolved to 1970s engine technology yet!
I met the Black smoke racing guys a few years back at a car event in Norway. They had some trouble with the boost pipes staying on. So I asked them how many bars/Psi they where running.. "Ehhh, around 9 bars" thats 130Psi..
If i remember correctly they "only" run something closer to 5 bars on a billet hx50. dieselpump uk or dieselmeken tested that the block cracs at around 5.3 bars.
If it was time when they already started to use 320CDI (OM648) engine in their "W203,5" chassis, its running about 4,5-5bars of boost. That engine is still in car and it makes like 70whp at 2500rpm and 700+whp at 3500rpm ->, atleast Teemu claimed so.
@@joku8900 oh yeah you are right i mixed them up, they currently are running about that pressure on a hx 50 on a om648. But quite sure they werent running much over 5 bar on their old om606 either.
I’ve got three of the OM648 that followed. Last of the straight six 3.2L. It’s common rail. Biggest downside is that not too many made it to the States so nots of lots of aftermarket parts and tuning.
Teemu ran Scania truck turbo, jaguar supercharger and a NOS!!! To make 1200NM on stock internals!!! He started to split blocks when reached around 1000nm, so he did a sandwich plate in between block and oil pan.
Yay ! BlackSmoke Racing getting some love :D Just for fun, the drifting w123 wagon in the beginning was actually turning at around 7-8k rpm according to its driver. The reliability was down to "let's hope we manage to finish the event with the 3 engines we brung"
Good to see the legendary OM606 getting your attention Rich. Never worked on one myself but have played with OM605/603/617/615 etc. Mercedes make great engines most of the time but now and again they drop the ball. More often with the petrols than the diesels. The main thing to be careful of is that they build the engines to a spec for the power requirement. Therefore the turbodiesels usually have higher spec than the N/A's. If you plan to boost that N/A block has it got piston cooling jets? Usually they are only fitted to turbo blocks. I have heard that the heads may run a different alloy to cope with the increased heat loading of turbo application. Do some research before spending money on it. Oh, and be careful of DieselpumpUK. They like to post Dyno videos of crazy power increases but don't show any EGT figures etc. Be interesting to see where you go with this and what application you put it in.
60 series has also been overhead cam for a long time and all the DD engines too. Isuzu also makes a 4HE1 that is a overhead cam 4.8l you should do a review on. They went to a 5.2L in 2005 2006
I worked at a Mercedes-Benz dealership 20 years ago. My job was just cleaning the shop but I will never forget the room they had dedicated to special tools required to work on the vehicles. Yes, a complete room full of specialized tools that were required for various repairs on the many, many models of cars produced through the years. I vowed never to own a Mercedes-Benz after seeing that room.
The 606 was before that time. I've had an M57 before, and I would basically only take a 606 over that engine. Both are dead simple and lovely to work on, with the Merc winning out in the end. On the Beamer it's the inlet and timing setup that gives you trouble, on the Merc it's the vacuum and the turbo if you don't size and flow things properly. Both have absolutely rock solid bottom ends and are absolutely reliable so long as you know how to treat them right. Don't buy any car past '08-'12 depending on brand, in my experience. Too much gadgetry and designer scummery. I sold my 530 after getting into the wiring and repairing some minor faults; It turned into way more of a pain than it ever should have been on account of the layout. Decent components but an absolutely stupid way of placing them. Built for obsolesence.
606! I was real tempted to buy one of these, but the timing didn't work out for me. Hope you take this engine to the limit! Also wanted to add... I believe the Europeans use the 606 with a modified mechanical 603 pump to make all the power and avoid the computerized nonsense.
Goran is "Da Man" I have a 7.5mm Dieselmekkan fettled pump on my OM605 retrofitted to a LWB 460 G Wagen. Goran or his staff are also VERY good about responding to email enquires, however tentative. Marcus
Great video! thanks!! (just bought a '94 E300TD (not turbo) - S124T w/OM606 motor 640,000 kilometers it runs pretty well (no smoke!) Automatic transmission is biggest concern... drives ok though... vacuum leaks common problem ("modulator") and clutch sludge (yes. is has clutches inside)
I have been waiting on 3.0L om606 video for so long - thanks a lot for such a detailed tear down and review. I am thinking to get one of om606 engines for doing Ford Expedition SWAP. Thanks again! Cheers.
11:29 yeah you could soak those pins in penetrating oil really good a few hours and the M5 thread that mercedes usually uses on those pins can be adapted to a slide hammer or a pair of wedges against the casting
8:46 valve float is caused by a lack of spring pressure. When spinning the engine very fast the nose of the cam can get away from the follower if the springs aren't stiff enough. Love your videos Rich, keep 'em coming.
In 1992ish I attended a lecture by Michael Costin (of Cosworth fame) & it was fascinating. The auditorium was literally standing room only & the fire marshals had to stop new people from entering. Lots of awesome info about making the most of the available displacement.
There are threads in the guide pin use a bolt and a slidehammer too get it out, and when its out you can lift the head. filterhouse from 603 with banjo fittings and mechanical pump from 603
On a diesel engine, isn't flame front propagation a limiting factor at higher RPM? I mean I'm sure you can get it to spin 7,500 but is it really making much power and extracting all the energy from the fuel, or is 75% of it burning in the exhaust manifold? Lol
@@dregenius Full HP at 6300rpm but nice to have some headroom of rpm if drifting or hooning around 😁 Ofc at over 7000 its not making that efficient power anymore but still goes really nicely all the way to 7500 🤭😅
Yea it's amazing the stuff he knows, some random obscure piece of equipment engines, but basic stuff like valve buckets and hes looking at them lile space age stuff. It's funny we all have such a broad range of experiences
@@SKOMPAS I guess I've been lucky in that I was a diesel fitter during the week and built race cars on the weekend. You kind of learn everything. No training either, all self-taught. When you're on a feedlot with 70,000 head 200km from town you learn pretty quick how to fix almost anything.
Had the 613 in an e class estate, I took that car from 250k to 350k mostly at 120 mph with a load in the back still getting excellent mpg, had mercedes ever since.
my guess on the sprocket with the springs is to take out any backlash. if so, the two opposing sprockets should be counter rotated against the spring tension before putting on the chain.
Being more specific the springs counter the flyweights retarding the timing at low revs and then the flyweights overcome the springs to advance it as it goes up
the spring loaded pump chain sprocket deal is actually dynamic timing. aka it advances timing as the pump spins faster. if you could put that on a cummins and have it be strong enough to resist the actual pump pressure of a p pump you could make a dynamic timed p pump... aka fast and slow.
Rich, there are so many variants of this basic eng from MB. Mine is a OM662 made under license in korea, & its in a '05 Ssangyong Musso Sports ute (pickup) My eng is old tech for that year model, still ID injection, but it is a turbo version. What you thought was a fuel pump on the timing cover is actually the vacumm pump. I personally would replumb the secondary fuel filter so that the fuel return goes back to tank, as you will have problems getting rid of air every time you change the filter, because the fuel return is plumbed back to that filter, so keeps sending the air round n round the system. Also, if you look up Diesel Meken in Sweden, he works all sorts of magic with engines & is a specialist in the fuel systems for MB. Hope that helps, from Qld Australia
The m/n/g 57 BMW Inline 6 diesel engine... What a beast... the LS of the diesel world. You can put it in a Patrol, you can put it in a land rover, you can put it in a toyota...
@DEBOSS GARAGE please keep making these videos! I've been watching all of your content. Amazing work and don't ever stop posting! You two are really funny too XD
that chain guide deal, you use a threaded pin and puller to remove it. super easy if you have the right tool, or the random metric thread lying around. i did it using wrenches and stacking them progressively to pull the pin out as i threaded in a bolt into the pin.
In the Niagara region, can't help you with parts sadly But so happy you're working on one of these, caught that "superturbo" bug a long time ago and a om606 with a om603 pump, elements, turbo etc dream build of mine. Happy to see im not the only one!
It also would be worth noting, the the OM606 is a IDI design, so it uses prechambers, as all Mercedes passenger car diesel up this point. In stock Form they behave much more like gasoline engines, as they have a linear increasing torque and power curve. They lack a bit of low end grunt and torque all over the range compared to a DI engine, because of efficiency problems with the IDI design. BTW. OM stands for "ölmotor" which stand for oil engine, they started calling their diesels like this, because diesel was more known as a kind of oil, back in the 40, when Mercedes started to use diesel engines in their passengercars. Mercedes first passengercar worthy diesel was called OM636 and it's a 1,7l prechamber (IDI), pushrod 4 cyl. Pushing ~35HP 😂
Yes you can put an OM603 (mechanical pump) on an OM606 turbo diesel engine, fully compatible. All you will need to do is make sure timing marks are correct and put it in.
you should also try taking a look at the bmw m57, also capable of 4-500hp and revving as high as the om606, its a fair bit lighter though since its an aluminium block. m57's are commonrail, which makes them fairly modern and fuel efficient too
4:58 you could use a heat gun to get the nylon soft enough to push (or pull) from the very end of the hose off the banjo fittings. (not only pulling like Chinese finger cuffs) but mostly pushing from the end and pulling a little just to give it a spiral motion
The plastic lines, fittings and o-rings on them are a weakness. but the solution is to use the older style diesel filter housing with banjo bolts and copper washers from om601-603. Rods are the weakpoint on the n/a engines and so is the head gasket, stock pistons will do fine,but the original turbo rods dont fit the n/a pistons . Theres no meaning to put a p-pump on there. there is no one who has been able to burn all the fuel an 8mm m-pump delivers, dieselmeken pumps ftw!
@DEBOSS GARAGE I think you can get a full set of rods, pistons, and rings from FCP Euro. If they don't have them listed, give them a call or message. Also, be sure to change the valves to the ones for the Turbo engine. They're designed to handle the higher heat. Now on the pump, what I had heard years ago when I was looking to put one of these into a 300sdl was that you had to change the elements and actuators in the om606 pump with the ones from the OM603 pump. It wasn't to be a big deal. Just a few hours of getting it off and putting it on. I may actually have a spare pump kicking around.
HP isn't hard. Getting RPM out of a pushrod engine, is hard. Sure, you can build a 9000 rpm pushrod engine, but it is not going to be cheap, and it is going to make less power than an otherwise identical OHC engine, because the spring pressure on the valves is going to be a hell of a lot more, to keep the valves from floating.
The guide pins do not unscrew!! You need a special slide hammer to remove them. The pin from the slide hammer screws into the chain guide pin, then you use the slide hammer to pull it out!!
The most powerful ones here in Finland are making a bit over 700who with these engines. Very sturdy engines. Friends one is making some 530whp/1000nm in a W201
Make certain that you bleed the cam followers down BEFORE install as they expand as you take them out and you'll run into issues when re installing them
Timing chain guides have a special tool to remove the pin. Its a threaded bolt, stepped down to another threaded area that goes inside the pin. I have one if you would like to see it. I use a bushing and nut with it, used like a gear puller.
I have an bmw e30 m20 stoker 2.8liter. And I have a Mercedes W201 that I have disassembled and now don't know what dirty shitt I should try with it. I never thought about diesel conversion! 🤔 Maby this is somthing fun! And Hase a chance to comply with German law. 🙄 I'm so jealous that you just can trow somthing together and just register it! In Germany that is hard AF! Mostly impossible. You can swap engine that are closely relatat from the same manufacturer, like on the e30 you can put in the m50 engines. But somthing like a 2jz swap, or putting in other axles in, pff... forget it!
As a matter of fact N/A and turbo blocks are slightly different. Both have oil squirters etc but N/A block is thinner from certain places.. N/A has better cams. worse pre chambers. less opening pressure in injectors..
What engine should we review next?
If you want to see more OM606 goodness, check out @dieselpumpuk, @blacksmokeracing, @dumbluckcustomz, @teamboosted, and @dieselmeken we think they're doing some really cool stuff!
The Bosch fuel pumps referenced at 7:02 are rebuilds by Yankee Diesel, Inc. and can be found at: yankeedieselinc.com/products/0400076992/ (mechanical) & yankeedieselinc.com/products/0400196003/ (electronic)
What about the OM602
You missed Baldur Gislasson off the list, he makes the DlS1 standalone ecu to run the EDC pump, fully programmable, he is a good guy!
Om642 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Ecodiesel. There so bad you’d have a extremely lengthy video
Hey boss.... Do you can talk about OM 906 mercedes benz... Thanks you
1. The plastic connectors are prone to breaking but are cheap to replace. They are also a source for air to get into the fuel system.
1.5 the rubber hoses that goes between the injectors should also be replaced, or else you will have a diesel leak that fills up the hole where the injector sits.
2. To get the pins out that hold the plastic guide you would first use a tap to clean out the threads in the pin (m6x1 if i remember correctly). Then you would use a sliding hammer to pull each pin out.
3. The pure mechanical pumps only comes from the 601,602 and 603 engines that has 2 valves per cylinder and all the 604,605 and 606 has the EDC electric pump.
3. The bolt that holds the main pulley is only made out of 8.8 material. This bolt should be replaced by a 10.9 or 12.9 bolt. They used to use a better quality bolt for the 601,602 and 603 engines so if you take a pump from a 603 for example you should also take that bolt.
Tips for upgrading your engine for making big power:
- Get a hold of originial turbo pistons and rods or get aftermarket ones
- Buy or make a girdle plate for the bottom end, either 10 or 12mm would be good. You will have to make a longer chain for the oil pump and a spacer for the pump so it still reaches down in the sump.
- Send your injectors off for testing and upgrading. Originally they open at about 110 bars of pressure but you get a much better running engine if you increase the opening pressure to about 150 bar. With this mod you also decrease the injection period, wich is long enough when you want to make alot of power on these engines.
- If you want to rev high (6000-6500 rpm) you should upgrade the springs to stiffer ones. You can get a complete set from a 320cdi engine. You should also weld the sprockets to the end of your camshaft at this point because the increased resistance can make the sprockets break the guide pin and slip on the cam.
- i would not use the p pump for this build. Get a hold of a stock M pump from a 603, preferably a RS203 pump. And ship that over to Dieselmeken to get it setup for your application. He can also supply an original pump. You get a lifetime warranty on the pump and he is also the expert when it comes to om606 engines and diesel engines in general.
- I would go for a turbo thats bigger than the HX35, because the only time i have seen bent rods in these engines is when you have too much charge pressure at a low rpm. For example 2.5 bar at 2500rpm is more dangerous than if you have 2.5 bar at 3500rpm. A good choice of turbo is the Borg warner 200sx-e or Holset HX40.
Also very important to have a large enough exhaust after the turbo to keep the egt low. Pistons will melt if you have egt of 850-900°C for a period longer than 30-60 seconds.
- If you want even more power and cooler egt you can add a water/meth injection system on it.
These tips are for making your engine completely "bulletproof". If you just want to make some power and see how long it will last then just do the Dieselmeken pump and a turbo upgrade.
Hope this helps making your build easier, you will be suprised by the power of this little guy.
Let me know if i can help some more 🙂
The 605, 606 engines in w124 chassies all have mechanical pumps, also the 602 turbo engine in w210 has an electronic pump
Also the w140 s300d has an om606 turbo with a mechanical pump no EDC
Yeah M6 or M5 for the pins. Don't need a puller, just an extra nut and a socket + washer and push the socket down with the nut while keeping the bolt from moving. Should pop right out.
Yes and also some S124 has 606 with mechanical pump. But mainly its the 603 that has the good pumps.
I would not recommend the screw and nut method because the hardest part is getting the pins to start moving, and you can strip the threads more easily that way. But if you dont have a sliding hammer it usually works fine.
In both cases they should be replaced with new pins.
you forgot the crankshaft pulley they starts to spin on the crank at higher rpms
I bought an OM602 on Craigslist for $60 couple years ago.. after I got it home I tried to start it and the bugger ran away on me! I had a plate to block the intake but little did I know there was a missing EGR pipe that allowed it to keep getting plenty of air. Vomited it's oil out the dipstick tube like a pressure washer, made made a godawful mess. Ironically after it stopped after it ran out of oil to burn, but wasn't seized up! Head was warped like 2-3mm though sadly. Oh well, most excitement I've ever gotten for $60!! 😂
There’s something special about seeing an engine I’ve had in my possession being torn down professionally on yt. Thanks for calling me when you did Rich! Nobody deserved this hunk more then you, and I’m exited to see what it becomes!!!
Professionally? 🤣🤣🤣
@@blacksmoke660 as professional as Americans/Canadians get to dismantle and rebuild a German Engine tho haha
I forgot to add, the car this engine came out of had 548000kms haha
@@MrSh31by The Germans at MB work by the hour, Rich gets paid for the amount of work he actually gets done. I'm sure if he was getting an hourly wage hed dress up in a pretty white MB short and have his nitro gloves on
I put one in my sprinter, 4 years ago, runs 500hp, it’s my daily, and it’s never missed a beat, and doesn’t piss oil and diesel everywhere like the old om611 did.
This sounds fun
Love Sprinters, they're everything a fuel-sucking, asthmatic old gasser American van (that you can't even stand tf up in) could only dream of being. Even the new American vans (which are just stolen from their European variants) seem to not offer diesels or charge like 20k for it. Mercedes did it right... ONLY offer diesel, and a proper modern diesel too!
What’s the failure rate of the sprinter transmissions again?
@@dregenius The Chevy van came with the 6.6L Duramax and now is available with the 2.8L Duramax. The Sprinter is fine but it is definitely not what every van should be.
@@dregenius The MB diesel is great - their DEF system, not so great. Not that anybody's is, but the MB system is pretty expensive when it fails. The countdown to zero starts isn't too popular among owners. Otherwise the Sprinters are good.
Legendary MB diesel. Had one in an E class. Unfortunately MB has forgotten how to make diesels that last virtually forever.
no they didn't. Emissions standards did.
Also there is not much of a market for just good cars that would cost like 1/4 million dollars now if they were built to the same standards.
making engines this goods isnt good for business anymore they gotta get you in a new car every few years lol
@@360fanboy360 the 90s gave us the most reliable cars and we took them for granted. Everything on the road now is a 100k mile throwaway
they make new om656 inline 6 diesel with 335hp stock now. Don't know about how good is it, but specs pretty impressive
Love it currently puting a om606 in a 87 c4 corvette
...go on....
definitely
wanna see that!
PLEASE film this
nooooooooooo
pretty please film it
😂🇫🇮 Teemu Peltola from finland drifting in the begining of the video! 👍
@blacksmokeracing and their old w123 with om606👌
Torille 😝🤘
No wonder rebuilding engines takes so long - because Rich keeps sneaking ahead of the line with his projects
Rich you fantastic SOB, I have never clicked on a video so fast. Here are some other things you might want to know:
-The turbo 606's also had oil squirters, which squirt oil up through a gallery in the piston. This is what allows them to run super high boost, but oil cooling is really important with that
-There is a guy named Baldur who sells a controller and wiring harness for the electronic pumps. It's totally tunable kinda like EFILive, I know it's not mechanical but just something to consider
-For the naming, the OM601/2/3 are the 4/5/6 cylinder earlier SOHC engines that had head issues. OM604/5/6 are the 4/5/6 cylinder DOHC engines. OM stands for "Oel Motor", literally an engine that runs on oil
Looking forward to this one!
controls.is/shop/ ís Baldurs website
All OM604-606 have oil squirters. For OM601-603 only turbo models and some random N/A models have them. Biggest difference between N/A and turbo OM605-606 is Wrist pin size, connecting rod, cams, head gasket.
Also OM601 is 2.0 or 2.3 and OM604 is 2.2 (some super rare OM604 are 2.0. But never the less block is slightly different than om601) OM602 vs 605 and OM603 vs 606 are more similar than OM601 vs OM604.
I want to see Gale Banks build one of these more than I want to breathe. So much respect for his process.
These pins holding the guides, you can get them out with an sliding hammer. There is m6 thread inside to connect it with an sliding hammer. Easy peasy
I think they were so dirty that they didn't see the threads
Yep, or special puller, or 10mm deep socket long bolt and some washers
I always just use a chain breaker tool to break the timing chain.
Your fuel pump is actually the vacuum pump on the front of the engine. The pins for the timing chain rail have 6 mm threads in them to install a bolt and use a slide hammer to pull them out of the head. It’s funny watching you and Scott tear the OM 606 down since I took an OM 603 apart yesterday. Also in case you are wondering what the OM means. OM- Ölmotor
Yes! This guy knows his Öelmotors! (Oil-motor, aka diesel) Vacuum pumps occasionally leak their bearing balls into timing chain too.. preemptively replace or gut the pump. Fun story: I did a complete autopsy on an OM602 I got for $60 on Craigslist that ran away when I tried to start it. Most excitement I've ever gotten for $60! 😂😂😂
I had worked on 647, 646 and 651 and that 606 looks a lot like a 647 and i though that my be the vaccum pump, good to know the i was right
04:00 it’s vacuum pump
For powerbreaks
Yup. Wanted to see if someone else made this comment before I did. Also worth mentioning that these vacuum pumps are one minor Achilles heel of the OM60x as the bearings on the vacuum pump's cam follower can have the cage break and since they're open bearings, the balls will drop (so to speak lolol) into the timing chain area... worth replacing if you plan to use the pump. If not, just rip the guts of the pump out and use the shell to plug the hole and call it a day. Lol
I was specifically searching for this comment. Now I can sleep
Some 30ish years back when Mercedes was building motors for its DTM teams, they were going out and offering to buy certain cars (with 2.3l 4-cyl gas motors) from private owners so they could get the blocks. They would gut the motor down to the short block and do a full race build on it, but because the blocks had been heat cycled so many times from regular driving on the roads, they were extremely stable and tolerated racing well. In the 80s and 90s, they were cranking 300+ NA horsepower out of what were Mercedes-Benz lowest end, cheapest engines. They were built that well. Just one of those factory freaks that comes around once every so often.
I think your just about a 100 hp of, its more like 400.
Later they had 2.5 ltr v6 wich made north of 500 hp NA!!!
BMW did the same thing with their customers and engines.
Those semi mechanical pumps can be modified to the same speck as the mech. ones but need an aftermarket ecu to be controlled like a baldur dsl 1 that costs about 600€ and is mainly used for this exact purpose. Many consider this setup better also because of more control of fueling.
and built mech pump costs much more, at least 10 years ago when i had my superturbo
You can just chip the ecu and have it still work on the stock ecu. Also this is the wrong pump to touch, this isnt worth anything
chipping only works for stock 6mm elemts and stock engine config, no one makes chips for custom pump and turbo setups and yes this is the right edc pump to use
@@nobba255 this has 5.5mm, also how do guys use 7.5mm edc pumps on w210?
@@777xpressmusic yes na model has 5.5mm elemets and the go to turbo version has 6mm. They use either a mechanical pump or a aftermarket ecu and an edc pump with those 7.5mm elements
I made 12mm p pump fit to Om613 and it is driveable when adjusted correctly.
Care to share how you did it? I have a 9i e300d that I would love to go mechanical on
@@marvinwatson2749 there is some pictures in my istagram accont: eerogue
Ahhh you used a timing belt system. Very clever
Wow. I've been wondering if anyone had done this with a MB engine. I've heard of people doing it with VW TDIs. What injectors did you use???
@@MiG21aholic injectior body is from Deutz bf4m 1011 and nozzle is from scania Dc16 8x0.2mm
As you can tell from my profilepicture i know my mercs. The sqaure nut found in the head is for the lid of the airintake box. When you crank the om606s up for power you want the N/A cams just make sure to insert an extra pin cuz they are prone to twist the gear. The turbo version got thicker vristpins and rods. And the thingy that holds to chainguide you have to thread in a m4 bolt i think it was and pull it straight out. On the SOHC versions as om601/2/3 the pin goes through the head towards the first injector and are prone to leak oil there if you removed the pin once, telling from experience.. Get in contact with Dieselmeken AB in sweden, they build the best pumps for these engines, period!
DieselPump UK offer way better products than the fraud that is dieselmeken
@@dturbo306 hahaha, pretty sure it was the other way around
@@DidricSundgren no mate it was mekon not dpuk who ducked up
Didnt Göran buy a pump from dpuk and it turned out it to be identical deliveryvalves as dieselmeken?
@@dturbo306 Please research before u comment
4:02 thats actually the vacuum pump! Its one of the main dangerous failure points in these engines, especially the older OM601,2,3 series. They had exposed ball bearings in the older pumps that if they failed, would shoot into the timing case, jump into the timing chain and skip teeth, causing catastrophic engine failure at about 200000kms.
Had one doing it at 25k km a few years ago, but must say it stood for about 12 years after original owner died. Bought it from his widow, a 1992 200d with 4 speed. Car was brand new and stood in heated garage, but standing is not what it liked obviously, and started it back up, 300 km's later that happened....
The spring loaded gear is to take up slop between the gears and stop rattling they still use this design in the om654 produced today
The spring tensioned cam sprocket is common on alot if japa diesel stuff too!
@@aaronhall7740 absolutely, I've seen this design on the camshaft gear of an Isuzu diesel. I think VW also used it on the completely gear driven i5 PD TDI in the Bus and Touareg as well as the 2.8 i4 TDI made by MWM in the second gem LT van to take out the slop in the valve train.
@@creak92 yep the t5 2.5 pd transporter had it also I forgot that
Sorry that's not correct, at leat not for the 601-606 series engines, those spring-loaded wheels are timing advance mechanisms, the advance pumptiming with rising rpms.
Those engines couldn't operate in such a broad range of rpm without any advance mechanism 😜
Sorry I meant *at least * not *at leat*
I watched this while sitting in my 606 swapped Dodge ram lol.
But watching you guys tear this down made my day, and I laughed where you guys needed special tools and didnt know it. The pins in the head can be removed with a socket, a bolt and a nut. Also both pins nees to be removed to remove the head.
Where did you get the adaptor? What tranny are you running? Maybe I should search your channel lol.
@@jimmahoney788 No adapter. Running the Mercedes transmission with an Ofgear TCU and made my own mounts. But that truck was involved in an accident. The swap now lives in my 1995 Ford F350 CCLB.
Guys at Team Boosted putting one of these in a 240 right now, excited to see content on these engines.
Yhere is a guy in Sweden there building diesel pump for Mercedes. 650bhp is no problem. Stock crank and rods. New exhaust manifold. Custom intake. BIG intecooler and turbo... beefy oilcooler. Wire goove in the block around the cylinders to make max pressure on the head gasket. Good luck🇸🇯🇸🇯👍👍👍
Mercedes timing chains are generally riveted. Pretty cool process of cutting the chain, attaching a new chain to the old chain with a temporary link and then spinning the engine over with special fixtures to keep tension on the gears and then riveting the new chain. Explains why the guides are not easily removed
Most Mercedes chain guides are held in by pins you push in from the outside. They are usually drilled and tapped and you use a bolt to pull them straight out
that's my experience as well..
Hazet makes a timing pin puller. Threaded bolt with a bearing and nut to pull the pin out the front
I just bought a Merc (S211) with a OM642 in it. I chose that engine because I used to drive a Merc van with the same engine, it wasn't spared and when I left that job it had 600.000km on it and still doing fantastic with zero issues.
Those “lifters/pushers” look like what I knew to be Hydraulic Lash Adjusters & on the Mazdas I used to work on, the cam lobes are offset so that as they turn on the HLAs, they actually rotate/swivel in the cylinders, so that wear & noise is minimal.
Those are really common over here in Europe, Mercedes used them on all of the OM601, 602,603, 604, 605 and 606 engines
Toyotas have been doing this with every ohc engine since the 1zz as well
@@kennedy796 Yup, and BMW have used them for probably 20 years before that as well. I guess it's only really the Americans that haven't evolved to 1970s engine technology yet!
“What’d this come out of?”
“A field”
The biggest problem with the OM606 is there should have been another 100 thousand of them sold in North America. The damn thing is hard to find.
Not when you have lots of money, unfortunately that's not the case with me
13:08-that is for variable pump timing. MAN/Mercedes also used them on their camshafts to adjust valve timing.
I met the Black smoke racing guys a few years back at a car event in Norway. They had some trouble with the boost pipes staying on. So I asked them how many bars/Psi they where running..
"Ehhh, around 9 bars" thats 130Psi..
And back then, they were testing out nitrous also,if I remember correctly.
That sounds like a pro-stock pulling tractor range.
If i remember correctly they "only" run something closer to 5 bars on a billet hx50. dieselpump uk or dieselmeken tested that the block cracs at around 5.3 bars.
If it was time when they already started to use 320CDI (OM648) engine in their "W203,5" chassis, its running about 4,5-5bars of boost. That engine is still in car and it makes like 70whp at 2500rpm and 700+whp at 3500rpm ->, atleast Teemu claimed so.
@@joku8900 oh yeah you are right i mixed them up, they currently are running about that pressure on a hx 50 on a om648. But quite sure they werent running much over 5 bar on their old om606 either.
Man iknow swapped a Range Rover M51 (BMW) for the OM606 and a six speed manual box. That thing is scary fast for a 2.2 ton barge.
I’ve got three of the OM648 that followed. Last of the straight six 3.2L. It’s common rail. Biggest downside is that not too many made it to the States so nots of lots of aftermarket parts and tuning.
can you do a mechanical pump on the om648 too? i keep seeing people say the 648 is the way to go but i don't see much info about them getting swapped
@@adamm2716 Not easily. It's common rail so injectors and everything would have to be changed.
But, but, but they sound cool...
And make a ton of power with a mechanical pump
@@tokeypokey Even with the electronically controlled pump they can make a ton of power.
606 rev over 6k stock.. om 603 can do 5200 rpm stock.. "but ya they sound cool" lol...
@parkerbethke that idle sound is perfection
The idle sound is the best thing about them
the drifter is Teemu Peltola from Black Smoke racing Finland if i am correct with the car
ruclips.net/user/BlackSmokeLtd
Teemu ran Scania truck turbo, jaguar supercharger and a NOS!!! To make 1200NM on stock internals!!! He started to split blocks when reached around 1000nm, so he did a sandwich plate in between block and oil pan.
@@dievs2 Yep
@@dievs2 He also had water injection on it
Yay ! BlackSmoke Racing getting some love :D
Just for fun, the drifting w123 wagon in the beginning was actually turning at around 7-8k rpm according to its driver. The reliability was down to "let's hope we manage to finish the event with the 3 engines we brung"
Looks like my lunch break just got a lil longer 👍🏻🤘🏼
Good to see the legendary OM606 getting your attention Rich. Never worked on one myself but have played with OM605/603/617/615 etc. Mercedes make great engines most of the time but now and again they drop the ball. More often with the petrols than the diesels. The main thing to be careful of is that they build the engines to a spec for the power requirement. Therefore the turbodiesels usually have higher spec than the N/A's. If you plan to boost that N/A block has it got piston cooling jets? Usually they are only fitted to turbo blocks. I have heard that the heads may run a different alloy to cope with the increased heat loading of turbo application. Do some research before spending money on it. Oh, and be careful of DieselpumpUK. They like to post Dyno videos of crazy power increases but don't show any EGT figures etc. Be interesting to see where you go with this and what application you put it in.
Its one of the best diesel engines in the 3 litre category
I've heard about these engine but knew almost nothing about them. Awesome to get some more info on them, looks like a winner to me!
60 series has also been overhead cam for a long time and all the DD engines too. Isuzu also makes a 4HE1 that is a overhead cam 4.8l you should do a review on. They went to a 5.2L in 2005 2006
I worked at a Mercedes-Benz dealership 20 years ago. My job was just cleaning the shop but I will never forget the room they had dedicated to special tools required to work on the vehicles. Yes, a complete room full of specialized tools that were required for various repairs on the many, many models of cars produced through the years. I vowed never to own a Mercedes-Benz after seeing that room.
The 606 was before that time. I've had an M57 before, and I would basically only take a 606 over that engine. Both are dead simple and lovely to work on, with the Merc winning out in the end. On the Beamer it's the inlet and timing setup that gives you trouble, on the Merc it's the vacuum and the turbo if you don't size and flow things properly. Both have absolutely rock solid bottom ends and are absolutely reliable so long as you know how to treat them right.
Don't buy any car past '08-'12 depending on brand, in my experience. Too much gadgetry and designer scummery. I sold my 530 after getting into the wiring and repairing some minor faults; It turned into way more of a pain than it ever should have been on account of the layout. Decent components but an absolutely stupid way of placing them. Built for obsolesence.
Benzforce on Facebook can get u forged rods and pistons
@parkerbethke hes got a website
Better off getting a turbo one, turbo swap, bigger elements in the pump and voila, 300~400hp
Rodney at BenzForce is a first class guy. He's the North American source for everything OM606.
i know nothing about diesel engines but here i am. Good stuff. You explain everything very well.
606! I was real tempted to buy one of these, but the timing didn't work out for me. Hope you take this engine to the limit!
Also wanted to add... I believe the Europeans use the 606 with a modified mechanical 603 pump to make all the power and avoid the computerized nonsense.
Great video, really cool to watch you tear it down. Keep the videos coming !!
Diesel Meken AB in Sweeden can make you a pump. They are one of the pioneers in OM60X tuning world.
Yes! i am very happy with my Dieselmeken pump.
Except Myna predate them by 5-10 years...Meken was definitely the youtube pioneer of om606 pump builders though.
Goran is "Da Man" I have a 7.5mm Dieselmekkan fettled pump on my OM605 retrofitted to a LWB 460 G Wagen.
Goran or his staff are also VERY good about responding to email enquires, however tentative.
Marcus
BenzForce in the USA uses Dieselmeken parts to build pumps so to don't have to go overseas.
@@rockandroad4x4partsaccesso36 i live in australia and got mine built in sweden by dieselmeken. got it in 5 days.
11:32 Knipex Pliers Wrench. I absolutely love this tool!
I’ve crushed a 2x4 with mine. Well worth the cost, they are awesome!
Knipex Pliers Wrench FTW at 11:29.
Great video! thanks!! (just bought a '94 E300TD (not turbo) - S124T w/OM606 motor 640,000 kilometers it runs pretty well (no smoke!) Automatic transmission is biggest concern... drives ok though... vacuum leaks common problem ("modulator") and clutch sludge (yes. is has clutches inside)
OM606 price just went up.....
Yeah, no shit. Thanks Deboss 😂
I have been waiting on 3.0L om606 video for so long - thanks a lot for such a detailed tear down and review. I am thinking to get one of om606 engines for doing Ford Expedition SWAP. Thanks again! Cheers.
LOL maybe when I move back home to Canada I should start to import them, Its an awesome engine
11:29
yeah you could soak those pins in penetrating oil really good a few hours and the M5 thread that mercedes usually uses on those pins can be adapted to a slide hammer or a pair of wedges against the casting
"If you have uncontrollable poops you know why."
I always thought it was the Tim Hortons that caused that, now I know the truth.
Metamucil
I like timmies. It keeps me regular..
8:46 valve float is caused by a lack of spring pressure. When spinning the engine very fast the nose of the cam can get away from the follower if the springs aren't stiff enough.
Love your videos Rich, keep 'em coming.
I change the spring, works great now.
OM 648 is my preference. Had a stock E class. good for 130 mph or 50 mpg (imperial)
I prefer the OM 642. It's all aluminum and more compact. I don't know how you get 50 mpg. I'm happy with 25, but mine is in an SUV ;-)
I am also interested in how you are achieving 50 mpg.
@@davidschulfer786 Cost of diesel in UK, and wearing a flat cap!
in finland. we love this engine. everyone swaps anything with this engine. bigger pump and a holset. this thing rocks!
Check out benzforce. Its a usa om 606 company and has alot of things you would need
+1 on Benzforce. Rodney is who I bought my OM617 7.5mm mw pump, and Holset from.
I used BenzForce too. Rodney is great to deal with
13:24 that feeling and sound tho😍😍😍
These are great engines, it's not always about displacement
Motion in the ocean
Volumetric efficiency
In 1992ish I attended a lecture by Michael Costin (of Cosworth fame) & it was fascinating. The auditorium was literally standing room only & the fire marshals had to stop new people from entering. Lots of awesome info about making the most of the available displacement.
There are threads in the guide pin use a bolt and a slidehammer too get it out, and when its out you can lift the head. filterhouse from 603 with banjo fittings and mechanical pump from 603
Dnd also a Wärtsilä 46F review would be fun ^^
No problem to rev an om606 up to 7k with harder Valve Springs...
A engine griddle is a must at those rpms
@@luisfelix09happy nah. Been running 2 years with 7500rpm and no girdle and no problem.
On a diesel engine, isn't flame front propagation a limiting factor at higher RPM? I mean I'm sure you can get it to spin 7,500 but is it really making much power and extracting all the energy from the fuel, or is 75% of it burning in the exhaust manifold? Lol
@@dregenius Full HP at 6300rpm but nice to have some headroom of rpm if drifting or hooning around 😁 Ofc at over 7000 its not making that efficient power anymore but still goes really nicely all the way to 7500 🤭😅
@@Cdijursi that's pretty impressive!
OH. MY. MONEY. finally some Diesel Mercedes content 🙌
I love that Rich has never seen a cam over bucket
Alien technology in the diesel world!
Yea it's amazing the stuff he knows, some random obscure piece of equipment engines, but basic stuff like valve buckets and hes looking at them lile space age stuff. It's funny we all have such a broad range of experiences
@@SKOMPAS I guess I've been lucky in that I was a diesel fitter during the week and built race cars on the weekend. You kind of learn everything. No training either, all self-taught. When you're on a feedlot with 70,000 head 200km from town you learn pretty quick how to fix almost anything.
Had the 613 in an e class estate, I took that car from 250k to 350k mostly at 120 mph with a load in the back still getting excellent mpg, had mercedes ever since.
Spent many of a day digging out coked up injections on these when serving my apprenticeship still gives me nightmares 14 years later
my guess on the sprocket with the springs is to take out any backlash. if so, the two opposing sprockets should be counter rotated against the spring tension before putting on the chain.
No just there to advance the timing as it revs up
guessed wrong then i suppose, thanks!
Being more specific the springs counter the flyweights retarding the timing at low revs and then the flyweights overcome the springs to advance it as it goes up
hey my mastercraft tools have served me well paid for themselves and most importantly saved me a fortune
the spring loaded pump chain sprocket deal is actually dynamic timing. aka it advances timing as the pump spins faster. if you could put that on a cummins and have it be strong enough to resist the actual pump pressure of a p pump you could make a dynamic timed p pump... aka fast and slow.
Finally catching traction with some one who speaks English!
Rich, there are so many variants of this basic eng from MB. Mine is a OM662 made under license in korea, & its in a '05 Ssangyong Musso Sports ute (pickup) My eng is old tech for that year model, still ID injection, but it is a turbo version. What you thought was a fuel pump on the timing cover is actually the vacumm pump. I personally would replumb the secondary fuel filter so that the fuel return goes back to tank, as you will have problems getting rid of air every time you change the filter, because the fuel return is plumbed back to that filter, so keeps sending the air round n round the system. Also, if you look up Diesel Meken in Sweden, he works all sorts of magic with engines & is a specialist in the fuel systems for MB. Hope that helps, from Qld Australia
The BMW n57 feels left out :feelsbadman
The m/n/g 57 BMW Inline 6 diesel engine...
What a beast... the LS of the diesel world.
You can put it in a Patrol, you can put it in a land rover, you can put it in a toyota...
Yeah completely... The bmw 6 cylinder diesels are insanely good..
Dont you mean M57? The N is one of the worst ever made!
Oh chill out buddy. There are enough bmw videos out there. Let the merc guys get some love for once.
M57, n57 are aluminum blocks,not as strong as older m57(iron block) and n57 have problems with timing chain
@DEBOSS GARAGE please keep making these videos! I've been watching all of your content. Amazing work and don't ever stop posting! You two are really funny too XD
"We not gonna buy Mercedes Rods we gonna build them."
Good Luck m8 XD
that chain guide deal, you use a threaded pin and puller to remove it. super easy if you have the right tool, or the random metric thread lying around. i did it using wrenches and stacking them progressively to pull the pin out as i threaded in a bolt into the pin.
My friend: buys literally anything diesel
Me: bro, you should put a p-pump on it
In the Niagara region, can't help you with parts sadly
But so happy you're working on one of these, caught that "superturbo" bug a long time ago and a om606 with a om603 pump, elements, turbo etc dream build of mine. Happy to see im not the only one!
It also would be worth noting, the the OM606 is a IDI design, so it uses prechambers, as all Mercedes passenger car diesel up this point.
In stock Form they behave much more like gasoline engines, as they have a linear increasing torque and power curve. They lack a bit of low end grunt and torque all over the range compared to a DI engine, because of efficiency problems with the IDI design.
BTW. OM stands for "ölmotor" which stand for oil engine, they started calling their diesels like this, because diesel was more known as a kind of oil, back in the 40, when Mercedes started to use diesel engines in their passengercars. Mercedes first passengercar worthy diesel was called OM636 and it's a 1,7l prechamber (IDI), pushrod 4 cyl. Pushing ~35HP 😂
Yes you can put an OM603 (mechanical pump) on an OM606 turbo diesel engine, fully compatible. All you will need to do is make sure timing marks are correct and put it in.
You guys gotta holler at diesel pump uk! They make a bunch of rad stuff for these om606s
Fantastic show
Man does it help liking these guys
Watching the vids !!
Nice work !!
you should also try taking a look at the bmw m57, also capable of 4-500hp and revving as high as the om606, its a fair bit lighter though since its an aluminium block. m57's are commonrail, which makes them fairly modern and fuel efficient too
4:58 you could use a heat gun to get the nylon soft enough to push (or pull) from the very end of the hose off the banjo fittings.
(not only pulling like Chinese finger cuffs) but mostly pushing from the end and pulling a little just to give it a spiral motion
The plastic lines, fittings and o-rings on them are a weakness. but the solution is to use the older style diesel filter housing with banjo bolts and copper washers from om601-603.
Rods are the weakpoint on the n/a engines and so is the head gasket, stock pistons will do fine,but the original turbo rods dont fit the n/a pistons . Theres no meaning to put a p-pump on there. there is no one who has been able to burn all the fuel an 8mm m-pump delivers, dieselmeken pumps ftw!
@DEBOSS GARAGE I think you can get a full set of rods, pistons, and rings from FCP Euro. If they don't have them listed, give them a call or message. Also, be sure to change the valves to the ones for the Turbo engine. They're designed to handle the higher heat.
Now on the pump, what I had heard years ago when I was looking to put one of these into a 300sdl was that you had to change the elements and actuators in the om606 pump with the ones from the OM603 pump. It wasn't to be a big deal. Just a few hours of getting it off and putting it on. I may actually have a spare pump kicking around.
review a volvo 850 T5 engine! :D
I’d like to hear about the B230, especially with a turbo
I second the whiteblock with a spooly boi
Love these videos, I really enjoyed watching the 2 stroke detroit diesel teardown.
Nascar Cup engine builders get some pretty hairy HP with pushrod 2 valve engines
HP isn't hard. Getting RPM out of a pushrod engine, is hard.
Sure, you can build a 9000 rpm pushrod engine, but it is not going to be cheap, and it is going to make less power than an otherwise identical OHC engine, because the spring pressure on the valves is going to be a hell of a lot more, to keep the valves from floating.
The guide pins do not unscrew!! You need a special slide hammer to remove them. The pin from the slide hammer screws into the chain guide pin, then you use the slide hammer to pull it out!!
That 68 charger 😍
The most powerful ones here in Finland are making a bit over 700who with these engines. Very sturdy engines.
Friends one is making some 530whp/1000nm in a W201
#deboss uploads literally make the corona float away.
Make certain that you bleed the cam followers down BEFORE install as they expand as you take them out and you'll run into issues when re installing them
DieselPumpUK has entered the chat :P
Yeah, one of their pumps with a big turbo is a really easy 500hp. lol
The only thing they are capable of is ripping of other diesel tuners... *coughdieselmekkencough*
@@tobiasjacobsen_dk No, in fact that was the other way around. Nice try bud
Turbo engine block ahs also oil squirters for pistons, but for pump you also can use VE pump.
OM642 next! Super common in Canadian diesel Jeep Grand Cherokees! I’m sure you’d be able to find one easy.
I’m in the US with one. It certainly has its share of issues!
Timing chain guides have a special tool to remove the pin. Its a threaded bolt, stepped down to another threaded area that goes inside the pin. I have one if you would like to see it. I use a bushing and nut with it, used like a gear puller.
I have an bmw e30 m20 stoker 2.8liter. And I have a Mercedes W201 that I have disassembled and now don't know what dirty shitt I should try with it.
I never thought about diesel conversion! 🤔
Maby this is somthing fun!
And Hase a chance to comply with German law. 🙄
I'm so jealous that you just can trow somthing together and just register it!
In Germany that is hard AF!
Mostly impossible.
You can swap engine that are closely relatat from the same manufacturer, like on the e30 you can put in the m50 engines.
But somthing like a 2jz swap, or putting in other axles in, pff... forget it!
As a matter of fact N/A and turbo blocks are slightly different. Both have oil squirters etc but N/A block is thinner from certain places.. N/A has better cams. worse pre chambers. less opening pressure in injectors..