yeah, yosemite is nothing but rap bolted sport routes and pink lycra clad euros. really don't need anything other than 20 quickdraws, a stickclip, and a rope for most routes nowadays. In all seriousness, this looks fun. How would you say it compares to generator crack (which I really flailed on)
How long/far do people walk up the same #5 or 6 up a splitter OW and at what point do you leave that piece and place your second #5/6? Would you walk one piece up until the crack changes taper or is there a distance where you decide to place and leave a piece? Large cams are ridiculously strong, but looking at a 40 ft section with one piece of protection since the anchor seems scary! I'm pretty sure you'd get some weird looks if you climbed a splitter hand crack and kept bumping up the same #2 until the end of the pitch!
Seriously, a bat is harmless. A little squeaking and squawking and that's it. My tips found a small rattlesnake liebacking the pitch above Mammoth Terraces on the Muir Wall bitd. Looked in the crack to see what the soft thing was as it slithered deeper in the crack. Finished the damn route too (The Shield) :P. The next pitch is the crux imo, on Mental Block.
Haha you may be right. I had just been told stories about people getting bit by bats in California and getting rushed to the hospital for rabies so I wasn’t going to climb through it to test that theory
I don't know why the so called trad shoe high tops of the day continue to get it wrong in design. You need full high top with full one piece wrap around heel rubber and rands with NO gaps or edges that can catch and tear. Even the celebrated Sportivas you're wearing that now cost 200 clams have this fatal wide crack design flaw. Look at climbing shoes from the 70's and 80's and you'll see what is needed for this type of thrash festing like EB's, Fires, Ballets, Kaukulators, etc... Modern shoes continue to get this horribly wrong. Even the newest Moccasyms that now come with rubber on the top because lots of people crack climb in them got it wrong by putting the rubber on the wrong side, the inside rather than the outside little toe which is what wears out from torqueing the foot inwards in the crack.
totally agree! TCs just came out with a new version with a little more rubber, but I still think they need a bit more to stand up to the classic OWs they are advertised with. Namely, the Monster on Freerider
Just grind up some rubber from an old shoe, mix with Barge cement, and fill in the gaps. Works wonderfully. Did this to old moccasyms on the toes and worked great
1 rope for party of 3? And some "good enough" anchors.. I hope you practice better skills cause you are a badass climber who just needs to brush up their anchor and tech skills.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
I need to experience this in my life. Appreciate being able to live through these POV’s in the meantime
Fun video! Interesting to see a bolt next to a perfect crack with what looks like easy cam placements. Wouldn't see that in JTree.
yeah, yosemite is nothing but rap bolted sport routes and pink lycra clad euros. really don't need anything other than 20 quickdraws, a stickclip, and a rope for most routes nowadays.
In all seriousness, this looks fun. How would you say it compares to generator crack (which I really flailed on)
I'm pretty sure the bolt was there on the face because that block was insanely hollow sounding. A cam would be sketchy there
The iconic bat day! Always stoked to watch these vids.
you know what they say... A bat a day...
Great video, I met a woman in the valley who said she was going up to climb this so it was good to see it in action. Must try it someday.
Yes you should! Hopefully she enjoyed it. Certainly an acquired taste ha
#7...somewhere a boat is drifting away missing its anchor.
Agreed. A bit too hefty for this climb
awesome as ever!
haha the sling part make me laugh~
How long/far do people walk up the same #5 or 6 up a splitter OW and at what point do you leave that piece and place your second #5/6? Would you walk one piece up until the crack changes taper or is there a distance where you decide to place and leave a piece?
Large cams are ridiculously strong, but looking at a 40 ft section with one piece of protection since the anchor seems scary! I'm pretty sure you'd get some weird looks if you climbed a splitter hand crack and kept bumping up the same #2 until the end of the pitch!
Seriously, a bat is harmless. A little squeaking and squawking and that's it. My tips found a small rattlesnake liebacking the pitch above Mammoth Terraces on the Muir Wall bitd. Looked in the crack to see what the soft thing was as it slithered deeper in the crack. Finished the damn route too (The Shield) :P. The next pitch is the crux imo, on Mental Block.
Haha you may be right. I had just been told stories about people getting bit by bats in California and getting rushed to the hospital for rabies so I wasn’t going to climb through it to test that theory
Bat isn't harmless - many are carriers of rabies!
@@WyomingMtnMan Few are carriers of Rabies and no more so than any other animal. A Bat with rabies is not going to be sleeping in a crack somewhere.
Made my hands sweat through the whole video 😅😅
Keep up the god content.
Would love to see you guys do Book of Job on HCR.
Cheers! Will have to add that one to the list for next season
What a beast. Sweet climbing, sweet video.
Ayyy Thanks man!
@@GravityLabz agree - beast of a climb. - huge balls to tackle this guys - kudos!!!
raking it in literally in that first part of it hah - sweet climb!
yes absolutely. a bit of a gardening experience
I don't know why the so called trad shoe high tops of the day continue to get it wrong in design. You need full high top with full one piece wrap around heel rubber and rands with NO gaps or edges that can catch and tear. Even the celebrated Sportivas you're wearing that now cost 200 clams have this fatal wide crack design flaw. Look at climbing shoes from the 70's and 80's and you'll see what is needed for this type of thrash festing like EB's, Fires, Ballets, Kaukulators, etc... Modern shoes continue to get this horribly wrong. Even the newest Moccasyms that now come with rubber on the top because lots of people crack climb in them got it wrong by putting the rubber on the wrong side, the inside rather than the outside little toe which is what wears out from torqueing the foot inwards in the crack.
totally agree! TCs just came out with a new version with a little more rubber, but I still think they need a bit more to stand up to the classic OWs they are advertised with. Namely, the Monster on Freerider
Just grind up some rubber from an old shoe, mix with Barge cement, and fill in the gaps. Works wonderfully. Did this to old moccasyms on the toes and worked great
ovkygw
#von.ong
1 rope for party of 3? And some "good enough" anchors.. I hope you practice better skills cause you are a badass climber who just needs to brush up their anchor and tech skills.
FAIL.