Tine seal replacement Troy-Bilt Tiller
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- Replace a leaky Tine seal on a 2001 Troy-Bilt Super Bronco
Buy OEM Tine seals for Bronco amzn.to/21p6IOs
PAIR of TINE shaft seals for HORSE amzn.to/2qa3IZP
Replace wheel seal on a Troy-Bilt • Replace Wheel Seal Tro...
PAIR of New WHEEL seals for Horse amzn.to/2rLebeP
Seal should be driven in using something the same size as the outer diameter of the seal.
nice video. i did notice however your tires are on backwards
Thanks for sharing, to many don't try or discourage those who do.
Your explaining as you went, not only the repair but cause of damage you found was helpfull.
Thanks for the comment. I'm glad it helped.
@baileyslip... The 2 tires are linked with a solid shaft. The only thing that would make 1 tire pull and not the other is if the pin/bolt going through the wheel rim and shaft is missing or broken.
Wheel axel tube.
@Tonyb635 .. You need a Pony. The Tuffy and Bronco are inexpensive but will never last like a Pony or Horse. In the background you will notice another red tiller, it is a Horse. It is one of the first ones ever made era 1962. Its 4 1/2hp Clinton engine starts with a single pull and runs great. It will run circles around this Super Bronco.
I'm sorry! I have the original power horse 800 8hp front tine tiller, and it's not wheel drive! Also, it is not a Troy! It's a Coast to Coast model!
Yeah, some of the equipment I get have individual homeowner touches.
I would have smeared antisieze on the shaft and bolt before replacing the tines.
ThanX for showing.
I was wondering about that. I have a Bronco with a 7HP Kohler. Pulling the starter rope it has low compression, even with a new headgasket. It starts just like that Clinton. I love it.
I use a long drywall screw and barely tapped the metal seal ring. Then I gently pulled it out followed by using a dull screwdriver to remove the rubber. No scratches no dings!
It was much easier for me. I hope it will help you all.
Marvin Braswell k
@rdilts1966.............80-90w. You fill it until it comes out the overfill hole on the side (have to remove plug).
Thanks for the sand paper idea, wouldn't have thought sand paper could do much to the wheel shaft but it really cleaned up some major dings from a previous owner. It's a first generation Horse and somewhere in it's history it looks like someone removed the wheel seals with a Jack hammer, can't imagine those seals lasted more than a hundred revolutions, big ridges and gouges. But the sand paper got in there and cleaned things up enough not to tear up the new seals.
+David Struve Yeah, the wheels can darn near weld themselves to the shaft sometimes. These machine go forever, so I'm glad you're back up and going. In the background you can see one of the first Troy Bilt machines ever made(first couple hundred) with the original 4hp grey Clinton motor.
It was all wiped off but I guess if you want to leave the nicks and destroy your new seal go for it.
You're welcome -Moe
Nope. It works great and no more leaking.
Yeah, I don't have a cold chisel that small so I'll have to get one.
Thanks for your help
Where does he think all the grit from the sandpaper went?
thanks, Bill
See my video on how to prevent this break down of the seal. Thanks gave you a thanks gave you a thumbs up .
Didn't that sanded metal from the shaft just fall and stick to that bearing in there?
thks for vid
DD826 Yes and no. It isn't a high speed bearing so even if a little extremely fine steel dust got into it, it wouldn't hurt the bearing. Sand/dirt grit on the other hand is definitely not good.
Next time try cutting the seal with a 1/4" cold chisel that has been ground down a bit flatter for this specific job. This way you will not "nick up" the shaft or housing. You cut a V-notch into the the seal or cut it on opposing sides which will take all of the pressure off of it.
Nice job doing the job you did though, most of us would just keep adding oil!
nice job, now let the veggies begin,,,
fill with grease no need to replace seals. 10yrs still running fine ☺
I can't help but notice that vintage trojan horse in the background in this video. I have a working 1963 model like that one and cant figure out the logic of that clutch lever. if you push it down it locks into place going forward on the upper stopper, but when your ready to finish tilling the row you pull back on the spring loaded lever to release the lock, pull up, and the bottom roller gets caught on the bottom stopper. It's harrowing when you cant get the tiller to stop when you need it to- I'm tempted to just remove the bottom stopper. Any Ideas on how that clutch lever works or is adjusted? Perhaps the previous owner had it set up wrong or something and its trowing me off... I cant find anything about models that old online.
Good eye. The one in the background is a 1964 and is the 700th ever made. Yours should have the 4 1/2hp Clinton engine. The first couple of years up through about 1964 they had a unique lever system. It featured a rod and bar engagement lever. The newer models just had a single round bar engagement lever. You should have a piece of flat steel coming straight back about 2 feet long from the engagement mechanism. On the top of this flat steel there should be a welded washer with a round bar going through it and down to the engagement lever. Pulling on the round bar disengages the roller wheel from its notch. If your machine isn't disengaging properly I would suspect the slide rods that the engine mount moves up and down on is sticking. The weight of the engine should naturally want to disengage it.
I no longer have mine so I'm trying to go by memory and some old photos. I just shared some photos with you on your Google+ account. I've never done this before so let me know if you don't get them.
You should be able to zoom in and see the setup.
Great video sixtyfiveford! What is the best way to remove the tines on a Pony model? I tried using a 7 ton gear puller to no avail. Thanks for your help.
Wedge large open end wrench from axle into tines on opposite side. Use pipe wrench to start spinning tine assembly while spraying with wd40. Worked well on 82 pony
Oxy and acetylene heat it up to break the rust seal ! Same for the wheels if they are frozen to the shaft! Might have to do this a couple times.
Soak Croil penetrating oil between the tine and shaft. It cost more, but works a lot more. Add some every 4 hrs or so for Two days.
Then heat the tine tube using an accetelene torch.
When replacing, coat with antisieze.
Whenever get a new machine, immediately remove wheels and everything and coat with antisieze.
I have the same problem with the right tine on my Bronco tiller. Have you had any more problems with it since you repaired it? Thanks for the video!
Any ideas on why the tines start digging then stop? It has one belt and looks like it's set correctly. Drives fine. Makes grinding sound upon reverse and when tines stop digging. It's a horse model.
+PharmSilver If when the tines stop the lower belt pulley is still spinning you more than likely have a stripped gear internally. If you have the PTO horse make sure the tine engagement lever is fully engaged.
PharmSilver had it happen to me before you rear gear is fucked ya need a new one
So I just got this used tiller that was not cranking and tried to clean it myself. I am noobie to this and actually opened the oil tank :-(. All the oil poured out as you can imagine... Trying to put it back together it wont shut all the way... Am I screwed?
You putting sand in the gear box.
I have a super bronco tiller and when I am tilling the right tire stops turning or pulling the tiller then I have to push the dam thing you know that suck.Then the left side stops and the right tire will pull. somethings wronge!! Can you help?
Do I need to use a rtv sealent when I replace my axel seals
Nope
I was wondering if I was going to have to remove the shaft to get a new seal into my 1980 "Horse". I guess I better not do that :D
How do I replace the front transmission oil seal?
+Carl Freemyer Here is the wheel seal ruclips.net/video/Pv5n7yZIbb8/видео.html . As far as the front seal, you pull everything off and pull out the seal the same way.
Can it be replaced with pulling the transmission? It would seem you could just take the transmission pulley off, seal off, add new seal? Might be a little tight spacing wise?
You should be able to pull the pulley and pry out the old seal and reinsert a new one.
+sixtyfiveford great thanks. Started working on tonight. It seems the shaft has already pushed the drive shaft seal out. What would cause that?
Vibration of the unit from running/working.
Do you know the seal part#?
Part numbers are in the video description.
I have a TROY-BILT Rear Tine Tiller - Bronco, model number 21C 64M1011 188242 that needs a new tine shaft seal. Can someone give me what the part description would be? I would also be interested in knowing if there is a particular site that is the best place to go for buying parts like this. Thank you.
+Steve Rulison Your tiller uses the same seals for the tines as the wheels. They are MTD part number 721-04232 amzn.to/21p6IOs
Thank you for your help and getting back to me so promptly.
+sixtyfiveford I ordered the seal from Amazon and just got through replacing it. Everything went well. Thank you again for making that video and taking the time to provide a link for the seal.
Great. I'm glad it went well.
Great info! You tube went down yesterday and I flipped out because I thought I lost your vids. Seriously this is one of the best channels on here.
Your tires are on backwards!
Nope.
:)
Thanks for the video, I have to replace a seal also and thought I had to get deeper into it. I said to myself, " He can't fix it. His wheels are on backwards". LOL
Lafayette Lyle Generally chevron wheels would be positioned the other way but this is incorrect for tillers. Why? because the tines are pushing forward and the wheels are actually trying to stop/slow down the tiller essentially moving in reverse. Placing them the way you would for tractors will cause loose dirt to accumulate and the tiller will constantly jerk forward.
@@sixtyfiveford The tiller will jerk forward if you have your depth regulator set to low for the soil you are tilling. These tillers run themselves when set properly and jerk uncontrolablly when set to deep for the ground they are tilling. And yes, your tires are backwards.
@@barryemslie3470 @Barry Emslie Do a little more research before you comment.
@sixtyfiveford my research comes from the Gardenway manual sir - but perhaps the manufacturer needs schooling as well.
Don't watch it then. Do it yourself.. Oh wait you don't know how.