Hi, Thanks for the nice video. Very informative and clear. Did you ever make the other video on the replacement of the Tine seal that you mentioned at the end? On my Vertical Tine Tiller, one of the Tine Seals is leaking a bit and I was wondering if it is something I could do. If I see how it is done, I normally can do it but right now I am not sure where to start and How complex it is. Thank you again.
I did replace the tine seals, but did not make a video on it. It was a pain to get the old seals out. If I remember correctly, I drove a couple screws into the seal and pulled on them to get the seal out.
Did your unit leak gear oil when it set from the axle before and after my the I got from said he put two on one side I think it has a grove in the the axle. But the engine lock up only turns to 11 and back to the same spot thank you
Hey bud good video, I have a question, on my Troy built tiller I have a oil leak on the bottom of trans where the low and high range linkage is there also a seal there ? Thanks
3:43 - Just any old rusty pipe will NOT do. I recommend slipping a smooth washer onto the axle, and use your rusty pipe to pound on that thing. PVC works well, also. I made a pipe from bamboo that works very well. Just find a section of the bamboo that is the right diameter.
I don’t see a problem with using the rusty old pipe. As long as it hasn’t got any burrs and the inside diameter and cross sectional thickness are such that it makes contact with most of the surface area of the seal face whilst fitting over the axle shaft with + .010” - .050” clearance.
Trying putting the anaerobic gasket sealer around the outside of the seal before you install it, and make sure you drive it all the way in until it seats firmly. Then let it sit for 24 hrs before you try to run it. amzn.to/39jMSjK
I've seen a guy wrap the axle shaft with cellophane , or cut a plastic bag and wrap the shaft when installing the new seal. Frozen wheel hubs on the shaft can be a week of nightmares.
Yes, the Horse tiller manual does describe protecting the seal that way. I had some old plasticene and wrapped it around the axle, put some oil on it and it worked perfectly.
If you think a seized wheel on the shaft is a nightmare, try to break free the engine slider clevis pins that the motor rides up and down on when you move the drive handle to the forward or reverse position.. on a horse tiller that’s been out in the weather for about 20 odd years. I ended up having to use an Ingersoll rand 90 pound pneumatic pavement breaker with a pointed bit that I shaped on the grinding wheel to fit nicely into the chamfered center drilled pocket on top the slider pins. This was after trying about every method under the sun besides thermite explosives. Wouldn’t move at all with a regular air hammer, only took two braaps with the jackhammer. No damage to case, no mushroomed slider clevis end. 20 minutes of working it up and down with penetrating oil and it’s smooth as butter. The 20 years out in the weather Clinton engine that had been sitting with no spark plug in the hole, well that’s a different story.
When removing rusted on wheel, seal came out as well as a couple gasket/washers. Looked at a diagram and I see a retaining clip. What order do I reinstall? It appears there is a groove for the retaining clip. Does that get put on before the new seal? Need some help. Thank you.
@@jeffscutchfield1825 Sounds right. I had to fabricate a purpose built pickle fork to wedge it off. You can bet it went back on with a generous application of copper based anti-seize.
One of the main reason the seals leak is because the axial Shaft brass bushing is wollerd out They don't use bearings they use brass bushings Cheaperer way to make manufacture BCS use tapered roller bearings and are not that much more
Thanks for your input Joel. I have been a certified small engine mechanic for over 20 years and have never heard of anyone putting "non hardening sealer" on a rubber seal like this. Why do you recommend it?
@@j2buildsit Apply a coat in a non-hardening gasket seal around the outside edge of the seal. The sealant helps prevent oil leaks from between the seal and the casting bore.
@@j2buildsit Great job handling the criticism...true sign of a gentleman. We are always learning if we can be humble enough to listen. www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-form-a-gasket-no-2-sealant/
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Your video was very professional and I learned exactly how I will take care of mine. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video! I have the same tiller with the same issue.
Thanks for watching!
Hi, Thanks for the nice video. Very informative and clear. Did you ever make the other video on the replacement of the Tine seal that you mentioned at the end? On my Vertical Tine Tiller, one of the Tine Seals is leaking a bit and I was wondering if it is something I could do. If I see how it is done, I normally can do it but right now I am not sure where to start and How complex it is. Thank you again.
I did replace the tine seals, but did not make a video on it. It was a pain to get the old seals out. If I remember correctly, I drove a couple screws into the seal and pulled on them to get the seal out.
@@j2buildsit Thank you very much. I am planning to do the same thing after watching a few other people doing that.
Did your unit leak gear oil when it set from the axle before and after my the I got from said he put two on one side I think it has a grove in the the axle. But the engine lock up only turns to 11 and back to the same spot thank you
Hey bud good video, I have a question, on my Troy built tiller I have a oil leak on the bottom of trans where the low and high range linkage is there also a seal there ? Thanks
3:43 - Just any old rusty pipe will NOT do.
I recommend slipping a smooth washer
onto the axle, and use your rusty pipe
to pound on that thing.
PVC works well, also.
I made a pipe from bamboo that works
very well. Just find a section of the bamboo
that is the right diameter.
I don’t see a problem with using the rusty old pipe. As long as it hasn’t got any burrs and the inside diameter and cross sectional thickness are such that it makes contact with most of the surface area of the seal face whilst fitting over the axle shaft with + .010” - .050” clearance.
Recommendations for a burr in the axle? best material to file it out?
Good video. My seal did come out the next time I used the tiller. Anyone else have that problem?
Trying putting the anaerobic gasket sealer around the outside of the seal before you install it, and make sure you drive it all the way in until it seats firmly. Then let it sit for 24 hrs before you try to run it. amzn.to/39jMSjK
Great video!
Thanks for watching
You need to used a sealer between the outer seal and case housing with this installation
I've seen a guy wrap the axle shaft with cellophane , or cut a plastic bag and wrap the shaft when installing the new seal.
Frozen wheel hubs on the shaft can be a week of nightmares.
Yes, the Horse tiller manual does describe protecting the seal that way. I had some old plasticene and wrapped it around the axle, put some oil on it and it worked perfectly.
If you think a seized wheel on the shaft is a nightmare, try to break free the engine slider clevis pins that the motor rides up and down on when you move the drive handle to the forward or reverse position.. on a horse tiller that’s been out in the weather for about 20 odd years. I ended up having to use an Ingersoll rand 90 pound pneumatic pavement breaker with a pointed bit that I shaped on the grinding wheel to fit nicely into the chamfered center drilled pocket on top the slider pins. This was after trying about every method under the sun besides thermite explosives. Wouldn’t move at all with a regular air hammer, only took two braaps with the jackhammer. No damage to case, no mushroomed slider clevis end. 20 minutes of working it up and down with penetrating oil and it’s smooth as butter. The 20 years out in the weather Clinton engine that had been sitting with no spark plug in the hole, well that’s a different story.
When removing rusted on wheel, seal came out as well as a couple gasket/washers. Looked at a diagram and I see a retaining clip. What order do I reinstall? It appears there is a groove for the retaining clip. Does that get put on before the new seal? Need some help. Thank you.
Did you get your seal back in? Get a reply to your issue? If not, shoot me a message.
2:27 - Pack seal with grease before installing.
I didn't realize this. Sounds like a good idea.
What is the red grease he is using ?
Thats just regular #2 red grease by the looks of it.
Can you do a video changing all fluids in this tiller please sir.
Sorry, we just fixed this tiller up to sell it.
When are we going to see the tune seals video thanks
Sorry but we were not able to do a video on the tine seals.
Where did you get the motor
We were a Kohler dealer. You can get a Predator engine here - amzn.to/3uBxbin
@@j2buildsit I'd rather have a Kohler engine. If you could supply the model number that would be awesome!
Yup, that wheel came right off the axle shaft. 😆😅🤣🤣🤣🤣😂😀
Took 13 hrs to get mine off
@@jeffscutchfield1825 Sounds right. I had to fabricate a purpose built pickle fork to wedge it off. You can bet it went back on with a generous application of copper based anti-seize.
What gear oil does it take ?
Sae 145 or sae 80-145 gear oil.
How do you remove roll pin?
try using a punch and hammer
One of the main reason the seals leak is because the axial
Shaft brass bushing is wollerd out
They don't use bearings they use brass bushings
Cheaperer way to make manufacture
BCS use tapered roller bearings and are not that much more
666 likes not today devil not today had to add my one like
I appreciate that!
Take this video down. This is wrong.
You didn’t even use a non hardening sealer. That seal will fall out soon enough.
Thanks for your input Joel. I have been a certified small engine mechanic for over 20 years and have never heard of anyone putting "non hardening sealer" on a rubber seal like this. Why do you recommend it?
@@j2buildsit Apply a coat in a non-hardening gasket seal around the outside edge of the seal. The sealant helps prevent oil leaks from between the seal and the casting bore.
@@joelyoung3892 was just reading the owner’s manual and it does say to use permatex
@@j2buildsit Great job handling the criticism...true sign of a gentleman. We are always learning if we can be humble enough to listen. www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-form-a-gasket-no-2-sealant/
Don't forget to add oil.