Very nice trick! I wanted to add that it's important to check the shaft-surface for scoring due to wear from the old seal-lip onto it. It's particularly important when reinstalling the new seal, that the new seal's lip doesn't correspond with the old seal's lip mark/scoring if scoring is present. Otherwise you end up with the same leak as before and you have to do the job a second time... Hope this is helpful
Is that really a thing? I have never seen any oil seals leak before, and all the engines I've seen have a tiny bit of wear on their camshaft and crankshaft surfaces. As long as it's not rusted, or dented, a small amount of nearly invisible grooving seems perfectly normal, and the new seal should be flexible enough to seal up tight? The seal also doesn't need to be airtight, because the job of the PCV valve is to create a CONSTANT vacuum in the crankcase, so that the seals are always "sucking" air into them, rather than pushing oil out. If you remove your PCV valve like many shade tree mechanics do, then you'll end up having oil leaks, no matter how good your seals are, because at high RPM the crankcase can end up having a lot of pressure. The oil seals don't do well with pressure. Note, at WOT wide open throttle, the PCV valve opens up more in order to accommodate the drop in intake manifold vacuum, by increasing it's internal flow rating. At high vacuum during light cruise, the valve closes automatically to maintain a moderate vacuum in the crankcase. On a turbo vehicle, the PCV gets its vacuum from the air intake, pre-turbo, but STILL creates crankcase vacuum under boost.
Really work well for transmission oil seals where there is no gap between shaft and seal; the seal covers all outside the shaft. Bent-nail trick will work well
Very good to know, im trying to take the seal off my John Deere 70 PTO shaft, so I don't have to worry about the shaft, but im still struggling to get it out with a chisel. I'll try the nail method and see if it comes free.
a person takes responcibility! NOT ENOUGH of you! good video plastic screw driver break the structure that provides the tension to the case it will also make it easier! i was a race mechanic we rebuilt an engine in two hours between heats.... standard engine with hypo parts including a full race cam, it is really not that hard to rebuild a motor. the only time you need to split the cases is for rod and cam work.
Another method, drill a small hole that way you can control where it goes, instead of potentially having the screw hit the camshaft. Drill the hole with a 1/16" bit, going slowly, keep wiping the oil off, because the seal backing is made out of stainless steel and if you go too fast it will ruin your drillbit. You have to wipe the oil off the bit, if it has too much grease or oil it won't drill a hole.
Very informative and neat presentation! Hopefully, a tutorial on the carb cleaning and tune up will be uploaded soon? Anyway, keep up the good quality tutorials. 👍🏻
Thank you very much sir! As of now, I have a lineup of videos to upload in order to release some storage. By that time, I will be able to upload it soon. Thank you once again. Take care and God bless.
Actually this is only a spare engine head. I just kept it at home for future use. It doesn't have rocker cover because it is mainly used in the vehicle.
Unfortunately, oil seals are designed to be used only once. You cannot remove them without breaking it. I guess you can try to push it from the inside if it is accessible. If that is possible, then you can remove it without damaging it, but it can be quite difficult to do.
I tried to search for it and this is what I've found. 91213-PD2-004 (Arai) 91213-PE1-721 (NOK) These two are different brands but applies the same spec for a non VTEC engine, specifically D12B, D13B and D15B non VTEC. Please have it check at your nearest dealership and auto supply store for much more assurance and availability of the part.
remember if you nick seal walls or shaft your engine is done at that level of work! most seals are only big enough to hold the pressure of the fluid there is no excess coverage!
Hi sir. Thank you very much for watching my video. I will take note of it and upload a video about it in the future. Thank you once again. Keep safe sir.
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Nailed it!!
Thanks for owning up to the previous omission, all is forgiven. Nice explanation.
Thank you very much!
Very nice trick! I wanted to add that it's important to check the shaft-surface for scoring due to wear from the old seal-lip onto it. It's particularly important when reinstalling the new seal, that the new seal's lip doesn't correspond with the old seal's lip mark/scoring if scoring is present. Otherwise you end up with the same leak as before and you have to do the job a second time... Hope this is helpful
Thank you so much for this tip! Indeed, this is really important to remember upon changing oil seals.
Is that really a thing? I have never seen any oil seals leak before, and all the engines I've seen have a tiny bit of wear on their camshaft and crankshaft surfaces. As long as it's not rusted, or dented, a small amount of nearly invisible grooving seems perfectly normal, and the new seal should be flexible enough to seal up tight? The seal also doesn't need to be airtight, because the job of the PCV valve is to create a CONSTANT vacuum in the crankcase, so that the seals are always "sucking" air into them, rather than pushing oil out. If you remove your PCV valve like many shade tree mechanics do, then you'll end up having oil leaks, no matter how good your seals are, because at high RPM the crankcase can end up having a lot of pressure. The oil seals don't do well with pressure. Note, at WOT wide open throttle, the PCV valve opens up more in order to accommodate the drop in intake manifold vacuum, by increasing it's internal flow rating. At high vacuum during light cruise, the valve closes automatically to maintain a moderate vacuum in the crankcase. On a turbo vehicle, the PCV gets its vacuum from the air intake, pre-turbo, but STILL creates crankcase vacuum under boost.
@@RitalieSome grooves you can feel with your fingers/nails. I replaced on main crank seal and it leaked more than before.
Thanks for both videos. I will be doing mine soon and will watch this video several more times in the process. Good job!
Thank you very much! Good luck with it!
Really work well for transmission oil seals where there is no gap between shaft and seal; the seal covers all outside the shaft. Bent-nail trick will work well
Thanks! Glad it helped!
Very good to know, im trying to take the seal off my John Deere 70 PTO shaft, so I don't have to worry about the shaft, but im still struggling to get it out with a chisel. I'll try the nail method and see if it comes free.
Hope it helps. Thank you and take care.
This is a good video man. Thank you👍
Thank you very much!!!
a person takes responcibility! NOT ENOUGH of you! good video
plastic screw driver break the structure that provides the tension to the case it will also make it easier! i was a race mechanic we rebuilt an engine in two hours between heats.... standard engine with hypo parts including a full race cam, it is really not that hard to rebuild a motor. the only time you need to split the cases is for rod and cam work.
This works great! Thank you!!!
Glad to hear. Thank you very much!
Another method, drill a small hole that way you can control where it goes, instead of potentially having the screw hit the camshaft. Drill the hole with a 1/16" bit, going slowly, keep wiping the oil off, because the seal backing is made out of stainless steel and if you go too fast it will ruin your drillbit. You have to wipe the oil off the bit, if it has too much grease or oil it won't drill a hole.
That is another good method too. Thanks a lot for your advice.
What wiping the oil has to do with stainless steel springs??
Also oil helps with drilling. You can get drilling and tapping oil from shops
I was fighting with the oil seal and this did the trick
Thank you for watching!
nice vid bro very informational cant wait to work on my project car too haha
Thank you very much bro! Don't worry, time will come you will be able to build it soon.
Thanks y very much
Thank you very much too!
Very helpful and well done. Thank you!
Thank you very much!
👍👍👍
👍 thankyou sir
Thank you too!
Great video. Is it necessary to oil the new seal or go in dry ??
Thanks !
I always lube, if you don’t lube the seal it can get hot and lead to leaks
Yes. It's always better to lubricate it before using it to prevent wear and tear.
Do more about eg 💯
Don't worry sir. I will make tons of it and upload it soon. Thank you very much for your support!
use seal pulling tool, or use screwdriver but pry from the face of the seal outward, not from the outside diameter of the seal.
I agree with that and it is much safer. Thank you very much for that!
Very informative and neat presentation!
Hopefully, a tutorial on the carb cleaning and tune up will be uploaded soon? Anyway, keep up the good quality tutorials. 👍🏻
Thank you very much sir! As of now, I have a lineup of videos to upload in order to release some storage. By that time, I will be able to upload it soon. Thank you once again. Take care and God bless.
Where you have the front structure on it
Actually this is only a spare engine head. I just kept it at home for future use. It doesn't have rocker cover because it is mainly used in the vehicle.
I want it to from the beginning
Unfortunately, this is only a demonstration using a spare engine head. I don't have any videos yet on it's disassembly. Sorry about that.
❤
Thank you!
How to remove the oil seal and dont damage it (reuse it, because its only for regrease a bearing).??
Unfortunately, oil seals are designed to be used only once. You cannot remove them without breaking it.
I guess you can try to push it from the inside if it is accessible. If that is possible, then you can remove it without damaging it, but it can be quite difficult to do.
Dude just buy a new seal theyre like 10 bucks
what is the part number for the seal
I tried to search for it and this is what I've found.
91213-PD2-004 (Arai)
91213-PE1-721 (NOK)
These two are different brands but applies the same spec for a non VTEC engine, specifically D12B, D13B and D15B non VTEC.
Please have it check at your nearest dealership and auto supply store for much more assurance and availability of the part.
Use a nail puller after screw inserted
Yeah that should do too. Thanks!
remember if you nick seal walls or shaft your engine is done at that level of work! most seals are only big enough to hold the pressure of the fluid there is no excess coverage!
Bro baka pwede mo din gawan yung toyota 2e engine
Hi bro, noted ko po yan pag nagkaopportunity po ako eventually. Maraming salamat sa suporta bro. Ingat lagi and God bless.
that looks like a d15 head
It is a D12B engine head. Yep! It is almost the same with the D15B head, except for it's camshaft.
Screwdriver , scratch
Yeah. Not a good method. But others do it when they are desperate.
1st
hello, could you please make a video on how to clean the overhead cam shaft and for preparation in case the need for resurfacing for head gasket.
Hi sir. Thank you very much for watching my video. I will take note of it and upload a video about it in the future. Thank you once again. Keep safe sir.
what is the part number
The music is so bad please fix this hahah
Sorry about that haha