[Model Titanic SPLITS] How It's Made
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- Опубликовано: 4 авг 2024
- Sorry about the pre-roll ad - we're only going to do them for the How-To videos.
This video describes the process behind building and filming our splitting Titanic model. For more details, check out our website at www.RapidNadion.com and Like us on Facebook! 
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5:08. "If your compartment bulkheads are too high, your ship won't sink."
Sounds like something they should have put into consideration 100 years ago.
@TheTitanicSpecialist Glad you're inspired, friend! Diagonal cuts are tricky, as the hull halves tend to get caught on one another - but please make one of your own! Friendly competition is awesome, as it makes everyone strive to improve!
OUTSTANDING instructional video! I've had this upstairs (unbuilt) in a closet for over 10yrs and always planned on making it R/C & light up, but it's great to see your mods as well. :)
You guys should make a sinking Britannic model! 😃
I wish everything in life had an instructional video like this. Well done!
You guys put together very, very realistic models! But, my favorite one is your cracking in half ship. You guys give great tips about modeling, cracking your models, ice berg damage, all that stuff. I would like to say that you guys inspired me by your modeling and models you created! Thank you Rapidnadion.
@philipfry4073 So glad to be of help! Thanks for watching!
As a Multimedia Studies major, great video!
Not only have you covered every question I might have had, you arranged it into a very professionally edited video. Great pacing, great narration, great work!
@ChaseFilms8 Yes; the damage was given texture and depth with several layers of gray, white, and black paint.
Jesus you sir have some amazing creativity that must've taken a long time turned out to be an amazing video!
@bg22116 The first time we built one of these, it was just for display also (and it still sits proudly on a display shelf near our shipyard). That took us about a year and a half as well. :)
We don't use the same number of bulkheads because it simplifies the building process. The berg damage completely renders #1-5 bulkheads irrelevant, so they don't need to be there. The important ones for our purposes are amidships and aft.
1:350 is a larger model, which allows for a better scale recreation.
+Rapidnadion how do you do the scuff marks on the iceberg damage? I'm getting a model and not do the hull cut... How do you do the scuff??
Sadly, the amount of time and money invested in a model such as that would require us to first ask you for around $2000. :(
0:10 - "This video documents how to convert the *Academy-Minicraft* 1:350-scale R.M.S. Titanic model ..." :)
this has been so intresting to follow and watch, and now i can try it for myself! thanks you guys, and im looking foward to more vids to come!!
You've inspired me to convert my Minicraft Titanic into an ocean-going model. It won't split in half, but I decided to be bold and try to recreate the interior bulkhead design of the real ship. The result is that it settles very slowly and has a good "headstand" before it sinks. Like, about 15 minutes from water flooding the forward well deck to the bridge going under.
I have that model. I made over 30 "watertight" compartments. I honestly don't remember how many are in there. Mine doesn't split or anything. My goal was to create a model that would sink like a real ship. At the slowest possible rate. She takes a full 15 mins to sink. and goes down by the head. I found you can control the angle that it goes down by creating lower bulkheads with ceilings with another layer of bulkheads just below D deck. Drilling holes in strategic spots and different heights.
Thanks a lot for making this video. I always wanted a sinking model of the titanic. Also question,if I raise the bulkheads to the highest point possible for sinking, will it sink slower.
@Finster1998138 Thanks very much - we're happy to hear our videos motivated you to get a RUclips account, and that you're enjoying the new ones!
this video is amazing and you really described everything in detail and that is cool
@Jakanddaxter1999 We might tweak it a bit going forward. We'll have to see how things go as we set up for another round of filming.
Depends on how you scratch-build it; it's not a part of the original kit.
@Pairjira They sure do; that's pretty much how we left it. On the intact Titanic, we drilled out a hole on the fantail where the stern anchor hawser was (we think), to allow air to escape, but it wasn't necessary given all the holes left in the deck for rigging, so we didn't repeat that on the splitting version. As long as there are one or two of those tiny rigging pinholes left open, air will still be able to escape.
@ThePhantomFanatic We should have included that in the video - the build time was something like 35-40 days, actually. We had a lot of design work to do (and re-designs, when certain things didn't work out). Thanks for the compliment!
Just an FYI, Dremel makes some rotary tool wheels specifically for cutting plastic that make much cleaner cuts. Also, if your tool has a speed control, using the lowest speed can help you avoid the plastic melting you got.
Thanks for the additional background informations,...
I am so trying this and yes, I am an experienced modeler, this video inspired me so much!!
A great conclusion of the project!
One day, I´ll try to make a model like this...but perhaps even more advanced ;-) (larger break-up area, not just a straight cut but several diagonal cuts , if possible, so it looks even more realistic ) You sure have inspired me!
@Titanic2me The hull sections were supposed to separate cleanly, but in each of the sinkings done thus far, they've been held together by remnants of the rubber band. We also had a magnetic strap on the bottom in one of these videos, but that played no role in keeping the hull together.
@AsylumKid1 Yes. If you're a beginner, it would probably be best to first build an intact sinking Titanic model. The Revell 18" version is a simpler build and is well-suited for this. It's the one we started out with.
you guys rock its amazing,all the videos are cool great efforts!!!!
@141natedogg On this model, we used CA glues of various brands, Testors model cement, and caulk. The CA glue (superglue) is a lifesaver, though; instant drying is the way to go!
The detail is absolutly FANTASTIC! The whole thing is amazing and my guess of estamite time a week?
You are most welcome! You can actually make cuts like a jigsaw in curves and shapes.
I really enjoyed your video. Pretty amazing. Really good job.
I just found my mini craft model that I started back in 95 an it sits half done. cant wait to finsh it now. thanks for the vid.
@TK42138 Thanks! Yeah, we tried several approaches, and this was the one we settled on. It has its drawbacks, but the funnel smoke can't be beat. :)
great job guy. it looks great
I've been pondering on an alternative separation mechanism, and this is what I could think of:
Instead of relying on a fancy hi-tech thing, have a swinging pendulum in the bow with a circular hook connecting to a loop secured to the stern. Shorten or lengthen the hook to the angle you want the ship to break at, and let gravity and physics do the rest. However, the weight of the two halves might make enough friction to freaze it.
Another: electromagnets and a remote. Con: computers Pro: lights
@britannic192 Haha - congrats; you just did! All right - headed to bed feeling accomplished. Thanks for being the late-night Positivity Squad, guys!
Amazing and Fascinating! Keep up the good work! :)
@hongrand Depends where we sink it. Usually not more than 6 feet.
Wow - great tip! Thanks!
@starwarsfandude Can you replace the line with something more durable or more elastic?
THANK YOU SOOO MUCH!!!! I have built a Lego version of the Titanic, And I took your advice, And it sinks very well! Thank you Very Much!!!!
@TitanicMasta At this scale, the smaller number of compartments doesn't make much of a difference in flooding behavior. It also simplifies construction somewhat. Thanks for the compliment!
@RapidNadion Great job as usual. I have to say, your dioramas of the Titanic are getting more and more intricate. I still remember you being the main reason of me getting a RUclips account, just to ask if you would sell one to me. :) I wish you good luck with any more Titanic projects you care to create.
@Friendo1231 Wow - first we've heard of it! We'll definitely check it out - thanks for the referral!
Will look forward to seeing that!
love this vid thanks for posting it helped me make my revell sink like the real one :)
Thats SO fucking cool. Very very amazing work!
@lyman2129 Probably varies depending on your personal preference. We considered a bandsaw. You want to make the thinnest, cleanest cut possible - even with a steady hand on the Dremel, it wasn't pretty.
@tigerxwild123 Well, opinions may vary ... but we don't think we got it right until this past weekend, when we shot our newest Titanic video. "Model Titanic Sinks & Splits." We're pretty happy with it.
@brickman1999 No, but this is the largest one that's widely available. The more space you have to work with, the better, generally speaking.
@Aprosarmostos94 Thank you for the compliment! It would be very difficult to send this model overseas, and it's not currently for sale, unfortunately. But you can get an Academy-Minicraft kit like this and modify it to sink! Just Google "Minicraft Titanic" to find the kit.
Great video! I should try this one day!
VERY nice video!
Great job!
Nice. This is epic
so awesome!
When you mentioned leaving a small hole after sealing the poop deck so that air gets trapped but still sinks in the verticle way, do the small holes where where the ratlines and rigging go also help?
hi guys,
i got this from a 2nd hand shop near where i live pre-assembled, although the builder assembled the model as the olympic-but it wouldn't take long to change to titanic specs.
love the detailing on your models by the way,brilliant effort,keep up the good work.
@TheWannaBeNerd1912 We're definitely going to try to get a definitive Model Titanic SPLITS out there before the 100th, yes.
@ericpierre53 This was a very involved project and we probably won't be building another one; over time, we'll continue to make new videos with this model, however.
the revell modle i got the hull needs to be put together so how would you cut the hull?
@aquelescaraaaaaaaaaa CA glue (superglue), epoxy, and model cement, as well as the caulk discussed in the video.
@GreekGodJonathan Not sure we understand the question. This was a kit that we built and then modified. Is that what you mean?
OK i have a few questions. about the split system how much would that cost??? i am trying to get a diff model but would any type of model work for this or does it have to be specific type of model????????
what do you use to paint just a brush it is very neat painting
Absolutely.
All of the enamels and spray paints we use are water proof on their own; no clear coating is required. Generally we stick to Krylon outdoor paint on the spray side, and Testors enamel for brush on.
very very very cool! i am still smiling.
a very good idea and it works fantastic.
What is the next one? apollo 13?
oh man it´s so cool!
We did, yes. Thanks!
that is cool
This is too cool. :)
thumbs up if you think that the model he just made is the best sinking simulation of the titanic
@cheshirepuss1 Magnets (and electro-magnets) were one of the many approaches we considered. In the end, the added bonus of smoke and sparks from the pyro system overcame all of its inconveniences.
Glad to hear it!
@sachin1996ish Thanks! Have patience - it'll all come together.
Here's a what the fuck request/challenge: Is it possible to make a model that actually splits? I don't mean split by a control, I mean a model made with a certain amount a weight and a certain material that wouldn't be strong enough to support the ship on end and would break apart during sinking. I know it'd be very hard (I'm not an expert in model making so for all I know it could be impossible) and I know the model could only be used once, but I think it'd be so cool it'd be kind of worth it.
@britannic192 Wow - you watched it so fast, you beat us to it! We haven't even finalized the post-processing yet! :)
@starwarsfandude Not quite sure what you're referring to - what hole is frayed? If you'd like to go into more detail or post some pictures, shoot us a wall post on our Facebook page (username RapidNadion).
@ThatDisneyKid Thank you!
@DamianReport Since we build our own models, we're not too up-to-date on the best or cheapest ways of getting pre-built ones. Sorry about that!
@BigDenny1020 Wow - electromagnets are a very cool idea. It wouldn't be "a simpler way," necessarily, but it sure would be as cool or cooler!
I used a sharp blade and I added a lot of pennies and it worked for me lol
What other way do you recomend to seperate the ship? I cant think of any other ways.
very cool
That was cool I might jest have to try that :)
@ankbmm Many thanks!
@Dallas8844 Much appreciated, thanks!
that is awsome. i bet it took a long time and awsome break up.
is there a video on how to make the 18 in. revell titanic spilt?
@jasper1999ify We had to make some sacrifices when we shot the sinkings. The #3 and #4 funnels were falling over every time we tried to shoot, and with their safety strings, it was a real pain to get them back on. So we glued them on when we started running out of time and called it a compromise. :-/
@FalloutMafias You can probably R/C-ify almost anything! A gunship C-130 would be pretty awesome, but we're mainly focused on water craft at the moment. Maybe in the future!
exactly how much would it cost to buy one of your model ships or have you personally help with one? please reply rapid nation. Bonus: try to test one at night but see if you can make it light up and turn off lights with a controller like the rubber band thing that would be an excillant video and or model but i am not really experienced model builder so it may be impossible. again please reply.
@TitanicBismarck1987 Not sure exactly how much ballast is inside this one, otherwise we'd have included it in the video. It requires a trial-and-error kind of approach.
instead of the g2 igniter, what if you modified one of those fireplace light with the trigger and changed the design a bit?
@Rapidnadion Thank you!
1:350 is about as big as they get in kit form. :(
@superbirne1 Thanks very much.