I probably watched about 20 of your videos. I just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to explain these simple things. And for taking even more time to explain things that seem really complex but actually aren't that hard. Thank you
Im about to buy my 1st home, 4 bedroom 3.5 bathroom with an unfinished basement that I can get real creative with. Im taking notes and YES i'll do it myself. Nothing more satisfying than fixing up your own home
Another trick I learned from another RUclips channel, if your screw isn’t biting or holding in the hole, insert one or two pieces of copper wire, it helps to “fill the gaps” between the loose screw and the concrete hole. I’ve even used this with regular screws And,,, nails and it is magic. One of the Best tips I’ve learned. Hope this helps, love the channel
There are a lot of comments in here about leveling the floor. First let me say that in any home with a dug out basement that is constructed from wood, there is no such thing as a level floor. Trying to level a floor is a technique that is to be used only when you have a bowl effect and it will not cause a step at the next transition either door or flooring type. In a basement there will always be a small grade due to the concrete smoothing process. The flooring that is installed in plank form will be able to follow this contour without problems in the majority of the situations. Filling the center of the basement with leveling compound to eliminate the grade is very unnecessary and costly. It could take 4 to 5 thousand dollars of materials to achieve this and will not have any direct benefit in rewards to the value of your home. No one expects the basement to be perfect and surely no one expects the basement to have achieved a highewr level of perfection than the main floor which will also have a slope in time. Let us deal with common sense and good practice in the conversation so that people don't feel that they must find a way to level the floor. it simply is not necessary !
Home RenoVision DIY my builder didn't do any of this for my basement floor. Instead they just layered over the concrete some blue foam looking carpet thingy and then the carpet over that. My basement floor gets cold as heck. Is what they did the normal route taken when finishing basements floors? I can't shake the feeling they shoulda done more.
Hi Meg, unfortunately the builder keeps the job to minimum code. This would be considered an upgrade. Even though you can't use a finished space in the basement properly unless you can be comfortable in it. I call it a semi conditioned space since you cannot sit down for a long period of time.
@HomeRenoVisionDIY I've been watching your videos for a while now in preparation for all the upcoming work I have for my new home- I'm learning so much, thanks! One big job I'm currently taking on is re-pouring a basement slab for my walkout basement. There were some plumbing issues which caused the ground to settle and the slab collapsed. I want to take this opportunity to get my basement floor right as this is going to be the main office/work space for my partner. I'm doing the demo and the ground underneath is currently all dirt. What are the recommended layers if I intend to install engineered hardwood? I was thinking of laying down rigid insulation and a vapour barrier, and then the 3in slab. On top of the slab should I lay down this dmx and subfloor as you have done here? The contractor I'm getting to pour the slab says I probably don't need gravel or a wire mesh. What do you say? I live in Toronto so I get similar seasons to yourself
I keep a spool of insulated copper wire in my hammer drill case for use when my tapcons won’t grab....cut a length of wire twice the length of the hole, stuff the wire in the hole , run your screw in next to the wire and feel the wire grab like a mofo. This is an awesome trick I learned from other toytube videos. RUclips is priceless.
I used DMX One (the red product) across my entire basement floor and built the partition walls on top of it. It was approved by the local inspector as gasket to separate the wood from the concrete in the walls. It has an 8000+ PSI rating which is better than the drycore and as evidence to its robustness, I built a temporary support wall on it for a week while restating and it didn’t deform as a result. I figure I also saved about an inch in room height, and laminate feels solid over it
Would love to see a video on how to remove carpet from stairs and put in hardwood. Loved the bath tub Reno you did. Very helpful and informative. Great job!!! And thanks for all the tips!!
removing carpet is easy. just use some square end pliers grab and pull. All those staples will give up and let the carpet loose. Installing the stairs is probably worth a video. Thanks for the idea.
Going to be finishing the basement on our new home soon and have a few quick questions. Do you recommend laying this down, then plywood and then building walls over all of that? Can you tile on top of the plywood? And last question, what do you do about existing floor drains?
This is by far the superior and cheaper method for a basement floor. In my case, I used advantech for the subfloor, but tbh I'm not sure there was much gain over OSB or plywood. Only thing I would recommend is sealing all the board joints with flashing tape or silicone. I had a saniflo toilet overflow on me, which wouldn't have been a huge issue except that the water seeped between the joints and pooled in the dimples. I didn't think about it until 18 months later when I went to rip out the toilet and install a sewage grinder pit and found mold and fungal growth on the underside of my advantech near each joint - yuck! Had to tear out 4 sheets and bleach down the delta-fl. Lesson learned, seal up the joints. All that being said, I've now had delta-fl + advantech in my basement for going on 6 years and it has never once smelled musty.
Question for anyone who would know, we have to frame walls and everything, should I do this floor, before adding walls? Or should I put up all the walls, and then the flooring in each room? Thanks in Advance, GREAT VIDEO
Excellent info. My main takeaway is that I should hire someone like you who knows all the techniques rather than trying to do it myself. I'll stick to teaching music.
Jeff, your videos are really excellent. I'd love to see something on cold basements and improvements to prioritize. You've covered subfloors, flooring, framing, insulation, and drywall really well, but a great addition to these segments would be quick improvements for a semi-conditioned space. In my situation, I'm in a mid-2000s build with a framed and drywalled basement, but whoever did the job skimped on adding subfloor and any form of wall or rim joist insulation. I'm sure it'd be a challenge to figure out how to organize your thoughts on this and other similar situations, but it'd probably go a long way towards helping the community of DIYers that don't want to do a full reset and want to make the space a little more conditioned (without dumping hundreds of dollars into improvements that won't last or aren't worth it).
I love it your video you guys are professional same people with out knowledge installed play wood directly to concrete with glue no space for air is wrong but you guys explain very well thanks
using the Tapcon screws, what size did you use and if you drill into the concrete with the hammer drill, do I need to worry if I go to deep into the concrete?
Great Video! Watch as many as I can! Just wondering is there any issue with drilling all the holes into the DMX. It just seems like it’s gonna allow for air to move and moisture toward the wood subfloor. I’m all for this set up and am gonna call the company tomorrow and ask. Interested in your input. Thanks I love Canada. Been fishing for walleye many times. Gotta hit tim hortons as well.
Thank you for the how to. Working on my basement. Went around the outside of walls with steel studs now going to be doing the walls needed to put the floor in first. Thank you very informational. Suggestion for video is How to steel stud frame around a basement window
Was wondering if by screwing the plywood subfloor through the dmx defeats the purpose of the vapor barrier. Won't the screwholes allow the moisture through? Also should the outer edges be sealed with spray foam or something similar?
Great Video... I always come back to your stuff when working on my basement. In case anyone is wondering this exact video is where DMX got there cover photo from for their DMX AG Underlayment product. This is the way to go according to the company as well.
The interesting question we should be asking is why are people wanting to finish a basement when they are not designed and engineered to be living spaces. Any time you finish a basement you should consider the fact that a water event is not just a possibility but a probability and do you really want to invest all kinds of money to make it beautiful when it will most likely be removed again. Worrying about the longevity of a project that will at best perform for 40 years is not necessary. trying to get the screws to last 60 years is a waste of time and energy!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I can answer this question! Lol Because when you downsize from 3000 sq ft to 1300 sq ft, you lose some valuable real estate. In my case we used the basement in our prior home to hang out, watch movies etc. It was a newer home so the basement was made to be dry and came finished, Now, in my little 1926 house there’s a front door opening into the 121 square ft “living” room. No room to have anyone over to watch tv or play games. So I had a local company waterproof my basement with a trench outside, a trench inside going to a sump pump in the utility area of the basement. I had a contractor frame it out for a laundry room and the rest to use as a living room. I got a new furnace and new ducts with heating vents at the floor level. Now I’m looking to either use self leveler for the low spots where it used to divert water to a drain or go with this system. I’m just not sure how this would lay down over the lower areas. I’m not looking for perfectly level, just level enough so that the rigid core vinyl plank flooring I bought can be installed and not be an issue with popping seams. Thank you for all your videos. You’re the best out there!
Thank you for showing me an alternative to the horrible dri-core and the difficult to find Amvic subflooring. I think I can do this with my basement to make it warmer and more comfortable.
I liked this video as well. I am wondering you reccomend running this to the outside concrete walls and then put the exterior basement walls on top of the wood subflooring?
Would recommend running the Foundation Wrap (that's what DMX AG is) to the outside edge of your wall, but leave a 1/4" gap between the edge of underlayment (foundation wrap) and your foundation wall cold joint. Put your framing atop that, once you do the framing and secure it over the underlayment, then put down your subflooring (osb) on/inside that framed perimeter. Would not recommend screwing it down as that creates penetrations. If the foundation wrap is not staying put along the slab, use 1/14" tapcons in the divot of the foundation wrap and fill with acoustic sealant (because its a non hardening caulk, it will last a lot longer than say roofing sealer to seal that penetration for the life of your house... its still sealing car doors from the 70's, and still somewhat pliable - that's the beauty of acoustic sealant)
Can you use 3/8ths thick plywood instead of the 5/8ths for your subfloor? I am trying to stay a certain height due to transitions in my house. Thank you, and really enjoy your videos!!
Wife and I are doing a complete gut/remodel of our home and I am going to do the DMX/OSB subfloor throughout the basement... my question is, would we continue the subfloor into the bathroom as well? and would that include having the bathtub (standard fiberglass tub, nothing special) be put on top of the new subfloor, or would the subfloor just go up to the tub instead? or should we NOT run this system into the bathroom and just tile it ontop of the concrete? The bathroom is also a complete gut/remodel so no worries about replacing stuff. Thanks!
I have the same question. How do I tile inside the bathroom. Directly on top of DMX/OSB or the tiles should go on the concrete floor (i.e. no DMX /OSB)?
this is a great, simplified video with all the steps I was looking for which was to find the name of the vapour, but then it was a bonus of laying down the barrier as well as the subfloor
im about to renovate my entire basement. love the vids! all of my basement is concrete inn a cold area. Im going to putting heating inn the floor, will this work the same? the plastic-wood-heating-tiles?
Doing my basement never did woodworking, you're so right using the pole having perfect square. Just beginning it's unfinished the workmanship is unreal,just saying my trade was tool & dye. Thank you so much for sharing these.
Hi, in this video you talk about putting the subfloor down before building your walls but the walls are already up. Was there any additional steps in putting the walls up to allow for air movement? Thanks,
Can you show how you do the transition from this subfloor to the area you talked about that was going to be tile?? How do you make sure everything matches up so you don't have a step down or up? In my basement I want to use this DMX/subfloor system under carpet - and I will have a bathroom with tile adjacent to this.
I'm late to this video but I found that if you use a slightly smaller drill bit for the tapcons it works great. For instance the tapcon called for a 3/16 drill bit and I used a 5/32 drill bit and it worked out great for me. Next video I'm watching is the 3 hr long basement finish video.
Thank you for creating helpful videos for DIYers (like me). Love the demonstration, common (sense) points/issue everyone face (uneven floor) and how to address these issues (which people usually don’t explain in you tube videos). Appreciate you taking time and answering everyone’s questions/queries. I’m planning to install Vinyl (LVT) in my basement and have few questions. Background: We live in Winterpeg, Manisnowba ;) our basement flooded and had a carpet prior, which cleaning contractor removed along with 2 feet drywall for all walls (external and internal) due to moisture issue. We have backyard sloped towards house along with neighbor’s yard sloped towards our house , I can’t fix the slope however did address this issue with some dirt, gravel and quarter down lime stone which helped water issue (sumppump hardly runs now). We are planning to start finishing the basement this fall (just floor and remaining 2 feet drywalls). Questions I’ve: 1. will it be helpful to use this system you explained in video and install LVT on top? Or just install LVT on concrete floor? I’m leaning towards installing this (thinking it will help moisture problem if any arises in future) however don’t want to overkill (and overspend) if it’s not required for LVT floor. 2. What’s your thought on installing LVT directly on concrete floor vs with this subfloor system? 3. What happens or rather how to proceed (cleaning , reinstalling) if basement floods again, if we have just LVT on concrete vs LVT on subfloor? Thank you. -Avi
lvt on concrete is a great way to finish on a budget. plus if you get a small water event you can lift the floor and dry everything off and then reinstall without calling in for insurance coverage.
Glad I found a Canadian reno channel, really love your videos, very informative. I think it would be also great if you could incorporate tips (maybe inserts) on codes e.g. building, fire, plumbing, etc (could be international, national (Canada), or provincial)in your videos so DIYers who doesn't know this yet will learn what are the recommendations and requirements. Thanks Jeff, looking forward on more videos!
Vapor barrier......In another video ("Watch this before you finish your basement" or something) I thought you said homes built before the 80's shouldn't plan on using the basements for living areas since they lacked a vapor barrier? Looks like you can install it after the fact. Wish you would've mentioned that instead of discouraging me.
Great Video Jeff, your videos are really helping when working on my home projects at the moment (siding and finishing basement once the previous owner crap is removed lol). One question though, should i install all of my walls onto the new subfloor shown above once installed or just the internal room walls and leave the walls along the outside of the concrete basement perimeter with pressure treated 2x4 plates with the new subfloor pushed up to it like your layout appears in the video?
Awesome video! If a basement is completely empty with no perimeter walls built, can the membrane and T&G subfloor extend just short of the block wall, and then build perimeter walls?
I liked this video as well. I am wondering the same thing, do you run this to the outside concrete walls and then put the exterior walls on top of the wood subflooring?
Is there any chance of water making its way up through the tap con holes? The hydrostatic pressure built up under houses with a high water table can have a whole lot of pressure behind it.
Do you have a video on the next step? After your done with the plywood... how to install the carpet... please.... im moving tomorrow to my new house!!! And I need to adequate my basement for two of my daughters any help is greatly appreciated!
OOps sorry I got ahead of myself. We have that video uploaded but it comes out in a few weeks. I guess your on your own for now. I would check out a few other vids for now. Good luck with the move.
My contractor built our basement subfloor the same way ... very warm in the winter, don't feel any coldness through the floor even though it was very cold outside. Only complaint I do have is that the plywood makes the floor very thick, so is a "lip" when transitioning between tile -> laminate.
When you put the walls up on top of your floor do you use a certain type of screw or use a type of silicone on the screw to prevent moisture? Im assuming the screw that is being used will go threw the floor and puncture the dmx and cause issue if anyone could give me insight that would be great
I shoot all the holes with silicone. Sure it's extra $$, but it seals up the hole. I just had to tear out a section of my floor in the bathroom (was changing from a saniflo to a sewage grinder pit) and had a change to look at all the silicone blobs. They were definitely doing their job, the dmx (or delta-fl in my case) was stuck to the floor at every screw hole by the silicone. I would also highly recommend using 3m flashing tape (not asphalt based) or more silicone at every plywood joint. I had my saniflo overflow on me and the water seeping between the sheets pooled in the membrane dimples and started mold growth underneath the advantech. It's not just about water vapor or moisture from below, but also catastrophic events from above that you have to plan for.
Hi Jeff, I just laid down the blue DMX underlay and need subfloor; what is the minimum thickness of the OSB should I use? should 1/4" work or not? Oh, man! whatever help I need , always find you have done a video! Best regards Louis
I wouldnt go anything under the 5/8ths used in the video. Anything thinner will hump and warp when screwed down and when screwed around the edges you'd probably have huge lippage issues
Jeff, awesome videos. My father was a custom home builder for almost 35 years in the West Ottawa area. Love your straight forward no-nonsense approach and advice. Question on this method. Not sure if I missed it, but what length tapcon are you using? If I recall, concrete in basement floors is usually 2-4", so I presume the chance of piercing a waste water pipe under the basement floor is slim to none, correct?
love the advice here. I verified the compression values of the delta foundation membrane and the floor one. They are exactly the same, the only difference is the plastic. I have no smell at all from mine. Great advice Jeff, you saved me 1000 sq2 at 50% off
Hi Jeff, I've learned alot from your videos. I have a mudroom off of the garage that I need to renovate. The room itself is on a concrete slab with copper lines running through it for the washer/dryer. The rest of the house has a basement beneath it. With that scenario, should I still use your method of the DMX + OSB on top of the concrete? That room gets pretty cold as well so insulating it is another factor, especially with the concern that there are water lines in the concrete I'd rather not see burst in the winter. The wife wants a checkerboard style vinyl tiles in there. I'm trying to come up with a plan for that area where it'll be mold/mildew resistant, warm, and safe. Any tips would be appreciated. Keep up the good work.
I have a dream product for you. I am installing a vinyl tile on top of a membrane that is designed for an electrical wire to pass through the channels to supply radiant heat. This will solve all of your problems. We are doing the video in a few weeks and releasing it in the spring. Cheers!
I have read that the black DMX AG is only meant for exterior use on basement walls, etc. because it can "gas off" chemicals due to what it is made of. What is your response to that? Also, I have read that due to the fact you are drilling holes in the DMX membrane, the Tapcon screws should be dipped in a liquid butyl rubber to seal around the screws?
I've found a DMX product sold at menards called DMX Airflow. It appears to be the same thing that you've used here with closed cell foam added to both sides of it. The manufacturer recommends installing engineered wood directly onto the underlayment. It feels like a big win as the basement walls are already finished and I won't have to adjust doors and stair heights. Hopefully it goes together as easily as you make it look on TV :D
Hello Jeffrey, First I want to say love your videos on youtube. I hope you don’t mind answering a quick question. I am installing a subfloor using the DMX AG method from a video you had done last year. This is exactly how I have done it in the past with great success, like yourself I always used the DMX AG before it was ever marked not recommended for indoor use. What I did notice this time rolling it out, that it has a strong odour almost like laundry detergent I am assuming from the HDPE being recycled and not virgin. My question is have you noticed this as well but more importantly once covered will I still get the odour present through the air flow. Unfortunately I am not able to build the walls on the sub floor they are already there so I am concerned the smell will permeate through the edges of the underlay. Thanks In advance for your answer. Keep up the great videos. Thanks Rick, London ON
It's because it is using post consumer plastic from recycled detergent bottles. It cannot be recycled for food related plastics, so it is sorted out and reused for construction materials and storage bins, packaging, etc. I have used delta products in this application that smell that way and it doesn't effect the air quality in the living space. When under the floor (rolls of foam soundmat and engineered wood flooring), there is no smell of detergent/soap throughout the whole space.
That’s why the Delta-FL is made from 100% virgin plastic, while the Delta-MS (designed for use on exterior foundation walls) is made from 60% recycled. Only difference is the odour that comes from recycled plastics. People have said they can still smell recycled products once covered, others say they’ve never smelled anything. It’s a toss up, that’s why the FL was thought up for interior use
I also found this material I believe it came from Pennsylvania, maybe Jersey. I did my own basement on a new house I purchased. So this will save you half the amount of $$ vs. using dry core subfloor. I gotta say I prefer the dry core over this method. Dry core is more nimble to handle 2'x2' vs 4x8. I would revert back going with dry core any day of the week.
4 questions 1- can I use plywood t and g and use the blue step one instead of the black one for my subfloor 2- what happens if I already have my outer walls already built 3- do I put my subfloor first or after the sheet rock is up 4- how long other screws you are using
And yet it is called true floor subfloor from the manufacturer. And so I created a waterproof subfloor system that is 75% cheaper than theose 2x2' tiles.
@Home RenoVision DIY I am finishing a walkout basement with an exterior door that opens toward the inside. Once I put my DMX dimple board and 5/8” OSB down, I’m afraid the door won’t clear the opening. How do I handle that?
Hi Jeff!! Quick question, on my main floor I want to install 24 x 12 ceramic tiles. Can I tile over OSB? I have 5/8 plywood + 5/8 OSB. How many screws do I need to put in? Thank you again!
If you're attaching subfloor to concrete foundation, tapcons are good, but an actuator fired nail holds just as good (if not better) and is 10x faster.
Great video, thanks... I have a new construction slab 30x28. Once the exterior is done, I should lay down the black DMX, then OSB/plywood over the whole slab before I put up my 4 interior walls?.......That would be the simplest, the quickest, and the CORRECT way to get the subfloor completed?....... I appreciate all the info in your videos to help people like me do it on our own and save money. Thanks
I love this video...soon I will be buying a house with my wife...has an unfinished basement and this is so helpful...i was wondering what about installing an outlet on the floor with wood floor or carpet...how would do the wiring in the basement
I want to start by thanking you for all your helpful videos. Us DIY guys live by these videos and YOU have helped me out tremendously both inside and outside my home. I will attempt to do my basement on my own (with your videos) Question: When laying out this dimple plastic barrier, do you also build your wall framing on top of it as well?
I've used this product before.. it's pretty good ( the Delta FL) I used Delta MS since it comes out a little cheaper /sq ft. One thing I would recommend is to put landscaping fabric BEFORE putting down the plastic underlay to eliminate the clickety-clack noise if some floors are a little uneven. (Recommended by the manuf.)
I probably watched about 20 of your videos. I just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to explain these simple things. And for taking even more time to explain things that seem really complex but actually aren't that hard. Thank you
Im about to buy my 1st home, 4 bedroom 3.5 bathroom with an unfinished basement that I can get real creative with. Im taking notes and YES i'll do it myself. Nothing more satisfying than fixing up your own home
Another trick I learned from another RUclips channel, if your screw isn’t biting or holding in the hole, insert one or two pieces of copper wire, it helps to “fill the gaps” between the loose screw and the concrete hole.
I’ve even used this with regular screws And,,, nails and it is magic. One of the Best tips I’ve learned.
Hope this helps, love the channel
There are a lot of comments in here about leveling the floor. First let me say that in any home with a dug out basement that is constructed from wood, there is no such thing as a level floor. Trying to level a floor is a technique that is to be used only when you have a bowl effect and it will not cause a step at the next transition either door or flooring type. In a basement there will always be a small grade due to the concrete smoothing process. The flooring that is installed in plank form will be able to follow this contour without problems in the majority of the situations. Filling the center of the basement with leveling compound to eliminate the grade is very unnecessary and costly. It could take 4 to 5 thousand dollars of materials to achieve this and will not have any direct benefit in rewards to the value of your home. No one expects the basement to be perfect and surely no one expects the basement to have achieved a highewr level of perfection than the main floor which will also have a slope in time. Let us deal with common sense and good practice in the conversation so that people don't feel that they must find a way to level the floor. it simply is not necessary !
Home RenoVision DIY my builder didn't do any of this for my basement floor. Instead they just layered over the concrete some blue foam looking carpet thingy and then the carpet over that. My basement floor gets cold as heck. Is what they did the normal route taken when finishing basements floors? I can't shake the feeling they shoulda done more.
Hi Meg, unfortunately the builder keeps the job to minimum code. This would be considered an upgrade. Even though you can't use a finished space in the basement properly unless you can be comfortable in it. I call it a semi conditioned space since you cannot sit down for a long period of time.
You never want to add filer to the poured concrete. It is almost always sloped towards the sump on purpose.
@HomeRenoVisionDIY I've been watching your videos for a while now in preparation for all the upcoming work I have for my new home- I'm learning so much, thanks!
One big job I'm currently taking on is re-pouring a basement slab for my walkout basement. There were some plumbing issues which caused the ground to settle and the slab collapsed. I want to take this opportunity to get my basement floor right as this is going to be the main office/work space for my partner.
I'm doing the demo and the ground underneath is currently all dirt. What are the recommended layers if I intend to install engineered hardwood?
I was thinking of laying down rigid insulation and a vapour barrier, and then the 3in slab. On top of the slab should I lay down this dmx and subfloor as you have done here?
The contractor I'm getting to pour the slab says I probably don't need gravel or a wire mesh.
What do you say?
I live in Toronto so I get similar seasons to yourself
@joe v he did say he likes this method over Dri Core...pay attention. Dri core has way to many seems.
You can find Delta flooring underlayment in the usa. This is a exact replica of what is found in this video.
Home RenoVision DIY
Thank you for that.
I keep a spool of insulated
copper wire in my hammer drill case for use when my tapcons won’t grab....cut a length of wire twice the length of the hole, stuff the wire in the hole , run your screw in next to the wire and feel the wire grab like a mofo.
This is an awesome trick I learned from other toytube videos.
RUclips is priceless.
Shanon from House Improvements has some awesome tricks. Cheers! I love that trick he showed!
I used DMX One (the red product) across my entire basement floor and built the partition walls on top of it. It was approved by the local inspector as gasket to separate the wood from the concrete in the walls. It has an 8000+ PSI rating which is better than the drycore and as evidence to its robustness, I built a temporary support wall on it for a week while restating and it didn’t deform as a result. I figure I also saved about an inch in room height, and laminate feels solid over it
Would love to see a video on how to remove carpet from stairs and put in hardwood. Loved the bath tub Reno you did. Very helpful and informative. Great job!!! And thanks for all the tips!!
removing carpet is easy. just use some square end pliers grab and pull. All those staples will give up and let the carpet loose. Installing the stairs is probably worth a video. Thanks for the idea.
I love Canadian DIY'rs. There such pleasant ppl.
Where are you from Joe? My kids don't usually call me pleasant. But I'll take it.
The tim's cups in the background are a dead giveaway eh?
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY LOL
Going to be finishing the basement on our new home soon and have a few quick questions. Do you recommend laying this down, then plywood and then building walls over all of that? Can you tile on top of the plywood? And last question, what do you do about existing floor drains?
This is by far the superior and cheaper method for a basement floor. In my case, I used advantech for the subfloor, but tbh I'm not sure there was much gain over OSB or plywood. Only thing I would recommend is sealing all the board joints with flashing tape or silicone. I had a saniflo toilet overflow on me, which wouldn't have been a huge issue except that the water seeped between the joints and pooled in the dimples. I didn't think about it until 18 months later when I went to rip out the toilet and install a sewage grinder pit and found mold and fungal growth on the underside of my advantech near each joint - yuck! Had to tear out 4 sheets and bleach down the delta-fl. Lesson learned, seal up the joints. All that being said, I've now had delta-fl + advantech in my basement for going on 6 years and it has never once smelled musty.
In the US a similar product is called Delta flooring I think (the black dimpled ). I couldnt find the DMX black dimpled around here haha.
After watching this video about a year ago i installed dmx underlayment (blue one) and now I’m loving it. Love your videos.
Thanks for the video. I’ve started to finish off my basement and I really appreciate videos like these to help me out along the way
Thanks for watching. It is our pleasure to help people out.
I bought some DMX. It kept asking me where the hood at
It's all good...
😂
What!!!!????
hahahah
The instructions said:
1. Stop.
2. Drop.
3. Shut em down.
4. Open up shop.
Holy crap- so glad I just watched this... I am truly just on the edge of telling this exact trooper of thing on my basement
Question for anyone who would know, we have to frame walls and everything, should I do this floor, before adding walls? Or should I put up all the walls, and then the flooring in each room?
Thanks in Advance, GREAT VIDEO
Excellent info. My main takeaway is that I should hire someone like you who knows all the techniques rather than trying to do it myself. I'll stick to teaching music.
It would have been great to see how you worked the door transition and installed some walls. Keep up the great work!
check out the basement reality renovision episode. Cheers!
God, I love you Jeff! Out of all the people in the world, YOU are my absolute favourite!
Jeff, your videos are really excellent. I'd love to see something on cold basements and improvements to prioritize. You've covered subfloors, flooring, framing, insulation, and drywall really well, but a great addition to these segments would be quick improvements for a semi-conditioned space.
In my situation, I'm in a mid-2000s build with a framed and drywalled basement, but whoever did the job skimped on adding subfloor and any form of wall or rim joist insulation. I'm sure it'd be a challenge to figure out how to organize your thoughts on this and other similar situations, but it'd probably go a long way towards helping the community of DIYers that don't want to do a full reset and want to make the space a little more conditioned (without dumping hundreds of dollars into improvements that won't last or aren't worth it).
I love it your video you guys are professional same people with out knowledge installed play wood directly to concrete with glue no space for air is wrong but you guys explain very well thanks
using the Tapcon screws, what size did you use and if you drill into the concrete with the hammer drill, do I need to worry if I go to deep into the concrete?
Thanks for the start. We wanted to put a floor and walls into our 60 year old basement.
If you ever have questions just drop us a line int eh comment section of any video. Thanks
Great Video! Watch as many as I can!
Just wondering is there any issue with drilling all the holes into the DMX. It just seems like it’s gonna allow for air to move and moisture toward the wood subfloor. I’m all for this set up and am gonna call the company tomorrow and ask. Interested in your input. Thanks I love Canada. Been fishing for walleye many times. Gotta hit tim hortons as well.
Thank you for the how to. Working on my basement. Went around the outside of walls with steel studs now going to be doing the walls needed to put the floor in first. Thank you very informational. Suggestion for video is
How to steel stud frame around a basement window
Was wondering if by screwing the plywood subfloor through the dmx defeats the purpose of the vapor barrier. Won't the screwholes allow the moisture through? Also should the outer edges be sealed with spray foam or something similar?
Wondering the same thing about the screw holes defeating purpose of moisture barrier...?
Great Video... I always come back to your stuff when working on my basement. In case anyone is wondering this exact video is where DMX got there cover photo from for their DMX AG Underlayment product. This is the way to go according to the company as well.
6:05 Why not put some type of anchoring cement? Or water proof product on the screws so that moisture wont come back up via capillary action?
The interesting question we should be asking is why are people wanting to finish a basement when they are not designed and engineered to be living spaces. Any time you finish a basement you should consider the fact that a water event is not just a possibility but a probability and do you really want to invest all kinds of money to make it beautiful when it will most likely be removed again. Worrying about the longevity of a project that will at best perform for 40 years is not necessary. trying to get the screws to last 60 years is a waste of time and energy!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I can answer this question! Lol Because when you downsize from 3000 sq ft to 1300 sq ft, you lose some valuable real estate. In my case we used the basement in our prior home to hang out, watch movies etc. It was a newer home so the basement was made to be dry and came finished, Now, in my little 1926 house there’s a front door opening into the 121 square ft “living” room. No room to have anyone over to watch tv or play games. So I had a local company waterproof my basement with a trench outside, a trench inside going to a sump pump in the utility area of the basement. I had a contractor frame it out for a laundry room and the rest to use as a living room. I got a new furnace and new ducts with heating vents at the floor level. Now I’m looking to either use self leveler for the low spots where it used to divert water to a drain or go with this system. I’m just not sure how this would lay down over the lower areas. I’m not looking for perfectly level, just level enough so that the rigid core vinyl plank flooring I bought can be installed and not be an issue with popping seams. Thank you for all your videos. You’re the best out there!
Thank you for showing me an alternative to the horrible dri-core and the difficult to find Amvic subflooring. I think I can do this with my basement to make it warmer and more comfortable.
I liked this video as well. I am wondering you reccomend running this to the outside concrete walls and then put the exterior basement walls on top of the wood subflooring?
Would recommend running the Foundation Wrap (that's what DMX AG is) to the outside edge of your wall, but leave a 1/4" gap between the edge of underlayment (foundation wrap) and your foundation wall cold joint. Put your framing atop that, once you do the framing and secure it over the underlayment, then put down your subflooring (osb) on/inside that framed perimeter. Would not recommend screwing it down as that creates penetrations. If the foundation wrap is not staying put along the slab, use 1/14" tapcons in the divot of the foundation wrap and fill with acoustic sealant (because its a non hardening caulk, it will last a lot longer than say roofing sealer to seal that penetration for the life of your house... its still sealing car doors from the 70's, and still somewhat pliable - that's the beauty of acoustic sealant)
Pretty much watch a video everyday before work. I would have killed to have a boss that was a good as you.
Can you use 3/8ths thick plywood instead of the 5/8ths for your subfloor? I am trying to stay a certain height due to transitions in my house. Thank you, and really enjoy your videos!!
Hi Jeff. I just discovered your videos and look forward to learning from you. I am an accomplished DIY'er who is always keen to learn.
Wife and I are doing a complete gut/remodel of our home and I am going to do the DMX/OSB subfloor throughout the basement... my question is, would we continue the subfloor into the bathroom as well? and would that include having the bathtub (standard fiberglass tub, nothing special) be put on top of the new subfloor, or would the subfloor just go up to the tub instead? or should we NOT run this system into the bathroom and just tile it ontop of the concrete? The bathroom is also a complete gut/remodel so no worries about replacing stuff.
Thanks!
I have the same question. How do I tile inside the bathroom. Directly on top of DMX/OSB or the tiles should go on the concrete floor (i.e. no DMX /OSB)?
I like the way he teaches and he does it step by step to understand it better my congratulations and thanks.
Can you do a video about securing a basement that leaks sometimes. How to fix it before finishing the basement.
this is a great, simplified video with all the steps I was looking for which was to find the name of the vapour, but then it was a bonus of laying down the barrier as well as the subfloor
Glad to hear you like our approach to common sense renovations.
Thank you - I’m starting a project involving replacement of the basement walk out floors
Next on my list! Question - any issues with a “crunching” noise when walking on this system?
im about to renovate my entire basement. love the vids! all of my basement is concrete inn a cold area. Im going to putting heating inn the floor, will this work the same? the plastic-wood-heating-tiles?
Doing my basement never did woodworking, you're so right using the pole having perfect square. Just beginning it's unfinished the workmanship is unreal,just saying my trade was tool & dye.
Thank you so much for sharing these.
you are used to nano meters not eye ball it measuring eh!
i also have a basement drain in my laundry room i'm looking at finishing.. how would i install this subfloor while keeping my slope for drainage ?
I’m looking for this answer too
This video explains better of how to install dmx -better than the dmx company videos. Dmx should use this as their standard installation video!
Cheers!
Hi, in this video you talk about putting the subfloor down before building your walls but the walls are already up. Was there any additional steps in putting the walls up to allow for air movement?
Thanks,
Carpenter here in Niagara Falls Canada love your videos
Can you show how you do the transition from this subfloor to the area you talked about that was going to be tile?? How do you make sure everything matches up so you don't have a step down or up?
In my basement I want to use this DMX/subfloor system under carpet - and I will have a bathroom with tile adjacent to this.
you don't there will always be an are that needs a reducer in the flooring.
I'm late to this video but I found that if you use a slightly smaller drill bit for the tapcons it works great. For instance the tapcon called for a 3/16 drill bit and I used a 5/32 drill bit and it worked out great for me. Next video I'm watching is the 3 hr long basement finish video.
thanks. now i can see how ruff ryders roll.
LOL now that's a trow back. Now we are called the red blacks. Not that there is much to cheer for this year...but next year watch out.
ODB featuring DMX
Lol
Jeff gon' give it to ya!
Now that is a good one!
Thank you for creating helpful videos for DIYers (like me). Love the demonstration, common (sense) points/issue everyone face (uneven floor) and how to address these issues (which people usually don’t explain in you tube videos). Appreciate you taking time and answering everyone’s questions/queries.
I’m planning to install Vinyl (LVT) in my basement and have few questions. Background: We live in Winterpeg, Manisnowba ;) our basement flooded and had a carpet prior, which cleaning contractor removed along with 2 feet drywall for all walls (external and internal) due to moisture issue. We have backyard sloped towards house along with neighbor’s yard sloped towards our house , I can’t fix the slope however did address this issue with some dirt, gravel and quarter down lime stone which helped water issue (sumppump hardly runs now).
We are planning to start finishing the basement this fall (just floor and remaining 2 feet drywalls).
Questions I’ve:
1. will it be helpful to use this system you explained in video and install LVT on top? Or just install LVT on concrete floor? I’m leaning towards installing this (thinking it will help moisture problem if any arises in future) however don’t want to overkill (and overspend) if it’s not required for LVT floor.
2. What’s your thought on installing LVT directly on concrete floor vs with this subfloor system?
3. What happens or rather how to proceed (cleaning , reinstalling) if basement floods again, if we have just LVT on concrete vs LVT on subfloor?
Thank you.
-Avi
lvt on concrete is a great way to finish on a budget. plus if you get a small water event you can lift the floor and dry everything off and then reinstall without calling in for insurance coverage.
thank you.
Thank you for the video! Would you recommend sealing the concrete first? Also, should anything be done to concrete walls?
Loving your video series. The best I’ve come across. Much appreciate the tremendous effort this must take.
He does things the right way! Good job
Glad I found a Canadian reno channel, really love your videos, very informative. I think it would be also great if you could incorporate tips (maybe inserts) on codes e.g. building, fire, plumbing, etc (could be international, national (Canada), or provincial)in your videos so DIYers who doesn't know this yet will learn what are the recommendations and requirements. Thanks Jeff, looking forward on more videos!
we try, however things are so different it is best to do local research.
Vapor barrier......In another video ("Watch this before you finish your basement" or something) I thought you said homes built before the 80's shouldn't plan on using the basements for living areas since they lacked a vapor barrier? Looks like you can install it after the fact. Wish you would've mentioned that instead of discouraging me.
Great video. Gave us some ideas on how to complete the subflooring which is the start of our project. Thank you!
Great Video Jeff, your videos are really helping when working on my home projects at the moment (siding and finishing basement once the previous owner crap is removed lol). One question though, should i install all of my walls onto the new subfloor shown above once installed or just the internal room walls and leave the walls along the outside of the concrete basement perimeter with pressure treated 2x4 plates with the new subfloor pushed up to it like your layout appears in the video?
Nick - I have the same question. What route did you end up going with?
Loving these vids
Finishing my basement this fall and want to add subflooring
Pergo later
this will work wonders for your comfort. Cheers and best of success!
Awesome video! If a basement is completely empty with no perimeter walls built, can the membrane and T&G subfloor extend just short of the block wall, and then build perimeter walls?
I liked this video as well. I am wondering the same thing, do you run this to the outside concrete walls and then put the exterior walls on top of the wood subflooring?
Is there any chance of water making its way up through the tap con holes? The hydrostatic pressure built up under houses with a high water table can have a whole lot of pressure behind it.
Same question... should I run this setup under the exterior walls?
I really appreciate the detailed description! I'm still looking for the different layers in a floor (architecture) but I did get most of it!
Just remember, air barrier ,vapor barrier,structure, sound absorption and then finish flooring.
Question: when framing none load-bearing walls, do you secure it to just the OSB or down to the concrete using screw?
thanks, looking at a home with a basement rebuild requirement so this will be very useful to me
I'm late to your channel, but loving it. I've already framed all my interior walls. Can I use the black stuff at this point?
You can. Just make sure bottom plate is pressure treated to prevent rotting
What did you end up doing?
Hey, your videos have helped me build confidence. Thank you
Do you have a video on the next step? After your done with the plywood... how to install the carpet... please.... im moving tomorrow to my new house!!! And I need to adequate my basement for two of my daughters any help is greatly appreciated!
Sorry, no carpet video but we have a laminate video install for you that is quite comprehensive and a great DIY project.
Home Reno Vision DIY that works too! Thanks for the reply! Please share the link so I can watch it ;)
OOps sorry I got ahead of myself. We have that video uploaded but it comes out in a few weeks. I guess your on your own for now. I would check out a few other vids for now. Good luck with the move.
LuiEVero it will work great!
Cristian Campo c
My contractor built our basement subfloor the same way ... very warm in the winter, don't feel any coldness through the floor even though it was very cold outside. Only complaint I do have is that the plywood makes the floor very thick, so is a "lip" when transitioning between tile -> laminate.
he should have used the ditra XL underlayment for tile. this makes the transition very small.
When you put the walls up on top of your floor do you use a certain type of screw or use a type of silicone on the screw to prevent moisture? Im assuming the screw that is being used will go threw the floor and puncture the dmx and cause issue if anyone could give me insight that would be great
I shoot all the holes with silicone. Sure it's extra $$, but it seals up the hole. I just had to tear out a section of my floor in the bathroom (was changing from a saniflo to a sewage grinder pit) and had a change to look at all the silicone blobs. They were definitely doing their job, the dmx (or delta-fl in my case) was stuck to the floor at every screw hole by the silicone. I would also highly recommend using 3m flashing tape (not asphalt based) or more silicone at every plywood joint. I had my saniflo overflow on me and the water seeping between the sheets pooled in the membrane dimples and started mold growth underneath the advantech. It's not just about water vapor or moisture from below, but also catastrophic events from above that you have to plan for.
The floor is already riddled with holes from where he screwed down the particle board. A few more wont make any difference.
Can you substitute a Ramset and Ramset nails for the hammer drill and Tapcon screws in this application? If not, what is the reasoning?
Jeff, thanks for all that you do! Would you recommend installing the vinyl flooring right over the DMX?
Another great beneficial video I know I'm gonna be using when I fix my basement, thank you guys much appreciated.
Hi Jeff, I just laid down the blue DMX underlay and need subfloor; what is the minimum thickness of the OSB should I use? should 1/4" work or not? Oh, man! whatever help I need , always find you have done a video!
Best regards
Louis
I wouldnt go anything under the 5/8ths used in the video. Anything thinner will hump and warp when screwed down and when screwed around the edges you'd probably have huge lippage issues
I like the way you teach. SIMPLE!!!!!
Jeff, awesome videos. My father was a custom home builder for almost 35 years in the West Ottawa area. Love your straight forward no-nonsense approach and advice. Question on this method. Not sure if I missed it, but what length tapcon are you using? If I recall, concrete in basement floors is usually 2-4", so I presume the chance of piercing a waste water pipe under the basement floor is slim to none, correct?
love the advice here. I verified the compression values of the delta foundation membrane and the floor one. They are exactly the same, the only difference is the plastic. I have no smell at all from mine. Great advice Jeff, you saved me 1000 sq2 at 50% off
Hi Jeff, I've learned alot from your videos. I have a mudroom off of the garage that I need to renovate. The room itself is on a concrete slab with copper lines running through it for the washer/dryer. The rest of the house has a basement beneath it. With that scenario, should I still use your method of the DMX + OSB on top of the concrete? That room gets pretty cold as well so insulating it is another factor, especially with the concern that there are water lines in the concrete I'd rather not see burst in the winter. The wife wants a checkerboard style vinyl tiles in there. I'm trying to come up with a plan for that area where it'll be mold/mildew resistant, warm, and safe. Any tips would be appreciated. Keep up the good work.
I have a dream product for you. I am installing a vinyl tile on top of a membrane that is designed for an electrical wire to pass through the channels to supply radiant heat. This will solve all of your problems. We are doing the video in a few weeks and releasing it in the spring. Cheers!
Home RenoVision DIY awesome! Thanks
I have read that the black DMX AG is only meant for exterior use on basement walls, etc. because it can "gas off" chemicals due to what it is made of. What is your response to that? Also, I have read that due to the fact you are drilling holes in the DMX membrane, the Tapcon screws should be dipped in a liquid butyl rubber to seal around the screws?
I've found a DMX product sold at menards called DMX Airflow. It appears to be the same thing that you've used here with closed cell foam added to both sides of it. The manufacturer recommends installing engineered wood directly onto the underlayment. It feels like a big win as the basement walls are already finished and I won't have to adjust doors and stair heights. Hopefully it goes together as easily as you make it look on TV :D
Nice product Patrick. enjoy the reno!
@Patrick Whitehead How did it go? I'm looking to do the same with pre-exisiting walls already in place.
Did it work out a year later? Any floor bounce?
happy to see you ,thank you for all your informations .
my pleasure , thanks for watching
Hello Jeffrey, First I want to say love your videos on youtube. I hope you don’t mind answering a quick question. I am installing a subfloor using the DMX AG method from a video you had done last year. This is exactly how I have done it in the past with great success, like yourself I always used the DMX AG before it was ever marked not recommended for indoor use. What I did notice this time rolling it out, that it has a strong odour almost like laundry detergent I am assuming from the HDPE being recycled and not virgin. My question is have you noticed this as well but more importantly once covered will I still get the odour present through the air flow. Unfortunately I am not able to build the walls on the sub floor they are already there so I am concerned the smell will permeate through the edges of the underlay. Thanks In advance for your answer. Keep up the great videos.
Thanks Rick, London ON
It's because it is using post consumer plastic from recycled detergent bottles. It cannot be recycled for food related plastics, so it is sorted out and reused for construction materials and storage bins, packaging, etc. I have used delta products in this application that smell that way and it doesn't effect the air quality in the living space. When under the floor (rolls of foam soundmat and engineered wood flooring), there is no smell of detergent/soap throughout the whole space.
That’s why the Delta-FL is made from 100% virgin plastic, while the Delta-MS (designed for use on exterior foundation walls) is made from 60% recycled. Only difference is the odour that comes from recycled plastics. People have said they can still smell recycled products once covered, others say they’ve never smelled anything. It’s a toss up, that’s why the FL was thought up for interior use
ODB...DMX
...dropping sick home reno beats!
Helpfull info thank you
Glad this helped. Thanks for commenting.
I also found this material I believe it came from Pennsylvania, maybe Jersey. I did my own basement on a new house I purchased. So this will save you half the amount of $$ vs. using dry core subfloor. I gotta say I prefer the dry core over this method. Dry core is more nimble to handle 2'x2' vs 4x8. I would revert back going with dry core any day of the week.
Screws too long & screw holes to deep.......... asking for trouble.
Superb demonstration. Thank you .
NJ , USA 🇺🇸
Glad you liked it. Cheers to Jersey!
Have no idea what rabbit trail you went on with the door you kind of touched on.. maybe that's a video in and of itself
Yeah, I can be for rabbit trails and some times they lead somewhere worth listening too.
4 questions
1- can I use plywood t and g and use the blue step one instead of the black one for my subfloor
2- what happens if I already have my outer walls already built
3- do I put my subfloor first or after the sheet rock is up
4- how long other screws you are using
Osb on a basememt floor...lololololll
And yet it is called true floor subfloor from the manufacturer. And so I created a waterproof subfloor system that is 75% cheaper than theose 2x2' tiles.
Home RenoVision DIY subfloor for wood not against cement
Stiiirob V did you watch the part of the video where we separate the subfloor from the concrete with that big roll of plastic stuff!
Home RenoVision DIY osb is garbage, use plywood
Go home now, armchair contractor. It'll be fine.
hey man...bonus points for having your Timmy's coffee cups in the corner!! Awesome!
I drink 2 a day. need them handy for when I change a toilet.
I use the dmx air gap in all basement subfloors, always a good choice for waterproofing
OSB or Plywood on top ?
I own a 1953 Minnesota Rambler. Would you recommend this process for my climate and age of home?
@Home RenoVision DIY
I am finishing a walkout basement with an exterior door that opens toward the inside. Once I put my DMX dimple board and 5/8” OSB down, I’m afraid the door won’t clear the opening. How do I handle that?
If you use landscaping cloth under the plastic underlayment you will not get squeaks. Cheers from Osoyoos in BC!
Hi Jeff!! Quick question, on my main floor I want to install 24 x 12 ceramic tiles. Can I tile over OSB? I have 5/8 plywood + 5/8 OSB. How many screws do I need to put in?
Thank you again!
If you're attaching subfloor to concrete foundation, tapcons are good, but an actuator fired nail holds just as good (if not better) and is 10x faster.
Great video, thanks... I have a new construction slab 30x28. Once the exterior is done, I should lay down the black DMX, then OSB/plywood over the whole slab before I put up my 4 interior walls?.......That would be the simplest, the quickest, and the CORRECT way to get the subfloor completed?....... I appreciate all the info in your videos to help people like me do it on our own and save money. Thanks
You got it ken. Cheers!
I love this video...soon I will be buying a house with my wife...has an unfinished basement and this is so helpful...i was wondering what about installing an outlet on the floor with wood floor or carpet...how would do the wiring in the basement
I want to start by thanking you for all your helpful videos. Us DIY guys live by these videos and YOU have helped me out tremendously both inside and outside my home.
I will attempt to do my basement on my own (with your videos) Question: When laying out this dimple plastic barrier, do you also build your wall framing on top of it as well?
a wall on top is better but it will still perform well if you can't
Home RenoVision DIY Thank you.
How do you prevent the damp rising via the screw? In the UK the system has a grommet to seal the drilled hole to secure the plastic.
I've used this product before.. it's pretty good ( the Delta FL) I used Delta MS since it comes out a little cheaper /sq ft.
One thing I would recommend is to put landscaping fabric BEFORE putting down the plastic underlay to eliminate the clickety-clack noise if some floors are a little uneven. (Recommended by the manuf.)
as long as you don't use an organic cloth.
Excellent channel, great info. Can I put
Styrofoam board insulation on top of the DMX and then the T&G plywood? Walls are already in place.