I feel like Bambu kind of forced Creality to finally deliver a true ease of use machine. Unfortunately there are a ton of old models people will unwittingly buy. I warned a guy buying a v2 on Black Friday that it was really outdated but he was adamant it was good for being his first printer. I just knew he was going on old information.
Right? my V2 has been collecting dust for like 2 years now. Hated my user experience with that machine (of course it varies from person to person but still)
@@nv2940 some people are really in that old mindset of manually adjusting everything. And influencers don’t go back and update their old recommendations. The amount of money I used to modernize my v2 was the cost of a whole new machine.
@@NathanBuildsRobots they can't, Creality has a huge market on developing countries like the ones located on Latinamerica, i'm talking about countries were Bambu Lab is sold three time it's original value (México) or Anycubic/Elegoo printers are unavaible (Chile, Argentina, Peru, etc). The old ender 3's are cheap enough and so economic to maintain to the point is nearly obligatory to own one if you want to go into 3D printing There can be no problem if the S1 goes to hell, but if the Ender 3 Pro is discontinued then the hit will be enormous for a lot of people that is from a country whose main language is not English
Not only Bambu Lab, but Creality was forced by all the market in general, when the S1 was the novelty the Neptune 3 Pro appeared, nowadays a lot of economic bedslingers follow the same concept of the Neptune 3 Pro
I have 2 P1Ss and 2 Ender 3 S1, got myself 3 of the KE and wow, I'm blown away. All the finicking I had to do on the S1 are gone and it just works. As you mentioned, it really is equivalent to the simplicity of the Bambus. Plus I find them more silent then the P1S at regular speed.
Thanks, glad you agree with the assessment. We are basically at a point where companies are deciding whether or not the user should be involved with the setup and assembly of the printer. Currently Bambu Lab, Creality, and FlashForge have moved to a zero manual calibration setup. Elegoo, PRUSA, QIDI, etc. Are still requiring users to do some very minimal calibration during setup. But just taking away the last steps and making it fully automatic really changes the user experience. You go from requiring some skill to get it working properly, to requiring zero skill and it makes it much more suitable for productive environments and absolute beginners alike.
This convinced me to pull the trigger on the KE. I was this close grabbing a P1S + AMS. I really thought about my actual needs vs frivolous wants and settled on this plus the Nebula camera. Could not be happier. Just updated the firmware for root access and I'm off and running. Absolutely no regrets. Less than $350 got me all the things I really want in a printer and so far the performance is everything I had been lacking in my original Ender 3 with a handful of upgrades. Printing is fun again.
I have an A1 mini and as much as I love it, it's super annoying not being able to set custom filament profiles in the AMS. Having a printer that you can modify in any which way you like is freeing, but does open the door to headaches. That is part of the hobby imo.
The mess on the floor, the tilted 90 degree monitor, the missing ceiling tile, the cabinets that are half open, one big mess on the table.. This all screams not being serious in your production... Jk; i love how you low key take a "Bambu poop" on those other fancy youtubers that are in immaculate studio's.. yet you cant even take them seriously. You outperform them on info, benchmarks and rumours any day of the week. Unfiltered and honest info at it's best! 😁
If anything its too staged. I bet if you pan the camera around there would be holes in the dry wall from Nathan punching the wall in frustration. C'mon Nathan! stop staging your set up and show us how bad it really is!!! Jks.
100% correct about the build sheet on the Ender 3 V3 SE - it ripped on about the 5th print. Luckily I was able to get the PEI sheet on Prime same day delivery (UK), which has been great ever since. It's my first 3d printer and that was the only thing that spoiled the first time user experience.
Thanks for this excellent (and fair) two part review, there's a huge amount of value in the upgrades over the SE, a single board computer with a decent touch screen, extra part cooling blower, ceramic heater hot end, filament run-out sensor, linear rail on the X axis and PEI sheet is well worth the extra $80... I can't tell for sure but looking at the SE and KE side by side, the stepper motor perched on the X axis also seems larger (which would probably make sense to handle higher speeds without bursting into flames), if this is indeed the case, I imagine the Y axis stepper motor might be also larger and that then stretches that extra $80 even further. Keep doing the good work you do, your content is great and I've gone ahead and hit the subscribe button :)
Yo, it's about Nathan, not your average citizen, Builds robots in the day, by night he's scribblin'. Reviews on printers, detailed and specific, His knowledge on tech, man, it's terrific. Nathan, Nathan, the robot creator, Print reviews so fine, ain't no one greater. In the world of tech, he's a navigator, Nathan, Nathan, the innovator. (Verse 2) From 3D to laser, he knows them all, Print quality, speed, he's on the ball. And his robots, they stand tall, In the tech arena, he's having a ball.
Just ordered the Ender 3 V3 KE, was looking at the S1 pro but snagged this one. I know nothing about 3D printing. Complete noob so, subscribed and looking forward to learning more. :)
Great job Creality. You have the Ender 3 SE budget version, Ender 3 KE tricked out version. Now make a printer 300 x 300 x 400 build volume, built the same as these Enders, but beefed up a bit for the larger size. Have an SE and KE version of this printer. Call this Printer "CR-10 V4". Get rid of all other bed slinger models.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I don't get the point of CoreXZ other than being different for the sake of being different. Maybe it will be great, I don't know. I think they should just stay with Standard Mendal design for the bed slingers. Lots of other types of machines they could develop, for instance a true high temp chamber machine (PEEK, PEK capable). Great videos by the way.
@@SiXiam vorons are obsolete. And I was not talking about corexy. I was talking about corexz. Corexz makes no sense. You are solving a problem that does not exist and not addressing a problem that does.
After many years of using bed slingers, the new era enclosed corexy with its smaller footprint is appreciated. I have an original CR-10 that is the best that it can be with tons of mods, but I am looking towards purchasing a 300x300 corexy to regain bench top area. I did a lot of printing for Christmas stuff and the printer issues I had were self-inflicted - wrong bed temp, profile, etc. - and not really the printers as much any more. Big change from years ago. Best argument I can give for the slingers is that you can see everything going on much better and can "fuss" with the print while it's printing. I will still keep one or two.
3D printer manufacturers did a lot for ease of use and printing speed in 2023, largely as a result of Klipper. Now I wish they'd work on better, more durable extruders. They cost reduced them until bearings are captured by thin plastic injection molded parts. I'd pay $100 more for a really good and well tested direct drive extruder that reliably extrudes PLA, TPU, ABS, PETG, ASA, etc. Also, quit making proprietary high flow nozzles for each model and only releasing them in 0.4 mm diameter and brass. We need 0.2 to 1.0 mm, in brass and abrasion resistant steel, and we automatically have that if a standard high flow nozzle is used.
Ive never seen it that clearly before, but yeah, every printer with input shaper cuts corners, its just a matter of how much they need to be cut. Lots of industrial printers opt to avoid input shaping as much as possible, and instead make a super stiff frame and motion system so they can still come up with sharp corners.
Thanks Nathan. I did the original preorder and got four rolls of filament and the KE delivered for $280. I shouldn't buy printers when I'm high though because it just showed up and I forgot I bought it. It's been sitting around for a couple weeks unopened. Somehow I managed NOT to pick up a K1 Speedy or that B&H Photo $600 Max. *sigh* I have a Max, an E5S1 and a built V2. I'll never own a Bambu Labs for numerous reasons. I got the KE because it's the most built E3 ever and I felt like it was sort of a mix of nostalgic and futuristic. Also, I have a spare acrylic enclosure. So, when the KE arrived I figured I'd sell it online, but I dunno, maybe it'll be fun to unbox and fiddle with. Thanks for the review, as always. Keep being weird. :)
So, unpacked and assembled the KE (10 minutes) and then printed the included "Boat." (about 15 minutes). Hmmm, I guess I'll print something with it today. ;)
It looks like a great printer, I really wish I could have gotten one of these at the time I bought my S1 pro. That would have saved a lot of aggravation, but I've got the S1 Pro dialed in now and I'm comfortable with it. It's good enough for now. When I upgrade I'll almost certainly go with a core xy (voron, bambu, k1, that kind of printer). I would be very interested in a deep dive as to what keeps the print quality from being better. That would be informative and any learnings there would likely apply to other printers.
Even with the S1 hey? I've been running on my Ender 3 V2 for a while and just having frustrations after frustrations but it's been going well lately. I was really close to getting an S1 pro thinking it would run generally reliably but ended up taking a day to sort my issues on the E3v2. Hoping to get something seemingly reliable for around $500 bucks soon.
So far my KE farm running with no problem since out of box... Still i miss those silent board printer...sound pollution is terrible with all those high speed printer especially when branch of them in one room
PIcked up my first 3d printer on B.F. a neptune 4 I won this printer from creality on xmas. Time to make a list of some basic upgrades for both. Havent' stopped printing since I picked up the neptune. Addicting.
Wow and golly gee Batman.......seeing the size of that waste bin printed on the Ender 3 SE gets me all worked up and I'm just waiting for my ender 3 SE to arrive.....I didn't realize that the 3 model could print so big..
Does it have any other problems? I am looking for a new 3d printer, But so far I have heard both good and bad things about ender 3 v3 ke, so not really sure
@@morc700 As long as you are following a maintenance schedule and monitoring the printer, it works well. I wish there was a CHT nozzle for the printer, but, overall it has been consistently(5 days a week)printing for 2 months with little issue. I did have one failed print out of 100, due to bed adhesion.
I was dead set on the KE for my next printer (I currently have a lightly modded Ender 2 Pro), but with the A1 coming out soon, I might go that route. Looking forward to you comparing these two machines soon!
I put all of my "fast" printers, on concrete block supports on 3/4 inch heavey MDF. This keeps the printer stable and the Ender 3 V3 prints much better than your sample.
I really liked your "Please subscribe" begging at around 16:30, so I subscribed! 😅 In any case, I liked your video, overall, so I was happy to subscribe ;-)
This is a great video, thank you. I am reslly struggling to pull the plug and order my first proper 3D printer. I was going to order the A1 but that is currently offsale so now I am torn between the Ankermake M5C or this one. What would you recommend or is there another printer that would be better suited? I really like the automatic bed levelling feature as i feel like I need to manually do my Ender 3 V2 after every print. Thanks for the great content and I really appreciate your advice.
Since you did a video on silent Fan modification, could you once do a comparison which 3d printer is the quietest? I know it depends on print speed much, but ever since i started 3d printing the loudness bothered me, but I didn’t find much information about the loudness of printers in comparison
good video. I'm currently researching fdm printers and I'm holding out to see how the FLSUN S1 and T1 turn out. Any plans on reviewing either of those? BTW I sub'd and liked.
I think the walls are just under a CM thick, I forget the layer width and thicknesses, but it was printed on a 1.0mm nozzle, so maybe 2mm wide, 1mm layer height
Subscribed! Thank you for the very detailed and excellent reviews! I was really confused about all this new Ender 3 an CR10 models... now I see much clearer! :o) (so tired of all those hyped "reviews" how great the new xy printer is...)
Thank you, great review ! Are you going to do review of new Artillery Sidewinder X4 Pro when it become available in february ? I don't know should i choose V3 KE or X4 Pro :/ X4 Pro seems to have some advantages over V3 KE
9:25 - I'm not sure I'd want a printer that ends up messing up a print so much that square parts of the print end up being rounded off. How slow do you have to go down to before it stops doing that and gives the square edges, and stops rounding off the perimeters so much that they fail to join like they are doing on the back part of the benchy?
Thanks for your reviews and compairison with the E3 V3 SE and KE. in your opinion would the SE be improved with the nebula screen. I know it is missing features in comparison to the KE but in the upgrade channels available, would be nebula pad be a good upgrade?
I just bought the Ender 3 V3 KE, it should arrive on friday, it was a huge upgrade from my ender 3 v2 neo, I have mixed feelings for my v2 neo 😂, it was my first printer and it wasnt easy to calibrate the bed, I still have issues with the bed leveling, i have to level the bed every 5 prints... I hate that part about my v2 neo... Unfortunately the old ender 3's are cheap enough and so economic to maintain to the point is nearly obligatory to own one if you want to go into 3D printing in Chile, I wanted a bambu lab printer, but it's nearly impossible to get one shipped from usa, some stores have preorders for bambu labs printers but they are overpriced 😭.
I would like to see, as an experiment, the SE or KE changing from printing PLA to ABS. Does the Z offset test actually compensate for the different bed and nozzle temps? As someone who has been printing for 5 years now, I really want one printer than can switch filament types in a hurry without having to stick my head inside a hot enclosure, to dial in the Z offset/squish, with a bed that's 100c. ABL by itself won't do this, simply because the thermal expansion of the bed and the thermal expansion of the nozzle - and the differences in thermal expansion between PLA printing temps and ABS printing temps - will alter the Z offset enough to be a problem. To me, that is the promise of a leveling system that uses the nozzle as the probe. But that has issues as well. So... Does this Z offset testing system on the V3 SE and KE actually deliver on that promise? Throw it in an enclosure and test it for us.
I refuse to enclose a bed slinger. It just ain’t right. But rerunning the auto calibration would almost certainly work for switching from high temp to lower temp
I've just got the KE and printed their default Benchy. The printer ran like a lunatic and printed it perfectly in 16 minutes. However if I convert a benchy to GCODE in the new Creality Print for windows, with the settings as fast as possible, I can only get it to 27 minutes. Why is that?
Thanks for the fast reply. I did find someone ask the same question on Reddit. The answer was 'If you Filter the slice preview by speed you will see that it's slower than the set value. You will probably need to tweak the min layer time to get it lower if it's at >5s' Apparently that was successful, but I have no idea what they mean. @@NathanBuildsRobots
Any newer printer, including the KE, should do pretty well with flexible filaments. Probably the best setup would be a Microswiss NG extruder kit installed onto an older printer. I know someone that runs a small flexibles print farm that uses them because they are very well optimized for flexibles.
Check belt tension, if its loose the belt can slip. Might be something binding, or motor driver overheating and getting weak. or it could just be running into something. Issues like this often take a while to troubleshoot
@@NathanBuildsRobotsbelts are as tight as they can get, even tried making shorter ones, got the Y nice and tight, but the X, that’s another story. The tensioners don’t have enough travel to get the belts that tight, be nice if there was a spacer for the X to give the tensioner a little extra travel
Something, something, interaction. Oh and PA could be too high, is that enabled by default? That is a point that is missing, where printer.cfg I bet they increased the hotendtemp no raise time from 20 to 200 again...
great comparison. i just setup a V3 SE and auto z worked great. but the print quality from creality slicer was awful. same print via prusa slicer was perfect. even after reducing stock accelerations. when do we get to see the robots dude?
I'm building one now. Technically it's a 3D printer, but hey, 3D printers are robots. Yeah Creality Print is based on CURA instead of PRUSA Slicer. I much prefer the output from PRUSASLICER/Bambu Studio/Orca Slicer.
Really like your review and comparison. I am looking forward to purchase my first 3D Printer in few days. Am more inclined toward Ender 3 V3 KE, but am also trying to compare between V3 KE and Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro as both are available at my place and have somewhat similar pricing. Will appreciate if you could share your opinion between these 2 3D printers, and also your suggestion. And how does this compare to Anycubic Kobra 2/pro? Thanks and Subscribed 👍
If you are brand new t0 3D printing, the Ender 3 v3 KE will be easier to set up and start using, and has good enough print quality. The Neptune 4 has a little bit more overhead in terms of performance and print quality, but it is a little more difficult to set up and use properly. There are some manual calibrations that must be done to get things running perfectly.
Have you had issues with LAN printing? Seems like whenever I use LAN printing the temp changes. I will have 215 selected for filament temp and it prints at 205 or some other random number. Then I have to adjust it on the app or printer. It’s weird and I can’t figure it out. Doesn’t do it on USB printing it seems.
Is there some hidden slicer setting that could be doing it? That is one complaint I have about creality print, and slicers in general. Sometimes settings are established in multiple areas
@@NathanBuildsRobots I looked in both the materials section in the print settings and the materials section on the side and both show my saved temp. But seems like whenever I print via LAN it changes my temp. Doesn’t appear to do that on USB. It’s very weird and I can’t figure it out. lol
Hey Nathan can you please talk about why connecting a generic $2 webcam to the Ender v3 KE won't work but to Kingroon Klipper works? What did Creality do? I own a KE by the way and want to use the cam but don't like to pay for proprietary cam especially that it's not even fitting into and integrating into the KE printer like the K1 camera does. It's just a loose webcam on a cheap tripod.
at the same given price would you get the elegoo neptune v4 or this one ? I'd love the autocalibration thing, but I'm not a fond of not having genuine klipper, also I've heard the neptune has better print quality.
@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks for the answer, I'm having a hard time deciding. I was more or less ready to take the KE because the proprietary nozzle on the N4 scared me away and the hand free calibration was something I was looking into. But now I'm eyeballing an open box N4 for 100 USD less and it looks like too good a deal to pass on. Same for the linear rails, I was happy to move away from the pom wheels that tend to lose uniformity over time, but if it induces worst prints I'm not sure anymore. Also last time I picked a Longer printer over a creality to save a few bucks, I had a hell of a hard time to upgrade it afterwards will with the community behind the ender 3 I would have been much better. All together, between a (40%) cheaper N4 and a Ender 3 v3 KE would you still consider the more expensive one ?
So i have an ender 3 pro for a few years now with almost no problems, i just hate bed calibration every now and then. Is there a reason i should buy one of those new Printers? Besides the bed leveling are they faster and better print quality?
I'm not sure what the upgrade path would look like there. They use a similar mainboard, so maybe there would be a way to update to KE, but it wouldn't be completely straightforward.
No, it is not as good in either measurement. It's about 25% slower than the K1, and the quality isn't as good when you look closely. The Ender 3 CoreXY version should be equivalent to the K1 in a bedslinger format. It has been announced but has not been released yet
My next printer may be the V3 Plus. Will be interesting to compare it to my K1 Max. Battle of the second axis! Sounds cool, doesn't it? @@NathanBuildsRobots
Neptune 4 Pro has better print quality, part cooling, and is running almost a completely stock klipper install. Ender 3 V3 KE requires less set up, and runs Creality Print, which is kind of a con. It's not that bad.
What about comparing to bambulab a1/a1 mini? From a print quality perspective, planning to build functional parts mostly, and it's gonna be my first printer 😊
Im getting mine in a couple days. I downloaded Ultimaker Cura but i don't see the KE on the list of supported printers. The SE is there why not this one? HELP
9:12 Hmm... going by what I learnt from tinkering with Klipper on my OG Ender 3 from 2018, that looks more like way too high pressure advance instead of input shaper to me. also @huzelgnurk mentioned something similar a moment ago... 🤔
My prints keep folding up and seperating from the bed on the KE. Its been frustrating and I'm considering returning it. Probably user error because I am a noob but I have tried everything.
I feel like those test prints show the importance of modding/tuning printers. I was curious how my modded MK3S+ would stack up so I ran that same calibration test print. I got flawless print quality and overhangs that were on par with the KE (Prusa's stock cooling is garbage). I don't think we'll ever get to the point where printers can print 100% perfectly out of the box, there is just too much variance in filament. Hell, even different colors of PLA from the same manufacturer can require different temperatures and flow rates in my experience. I'll be curious to see what results you get from modding and tuning the KE and SE. I bet you can get them both to produce pretty good results that would rival the MK4.
I've been looking at modding my MK3S, any tips for the cooling specifically? Like does it need a new fan duct (I have some ASA I can print them with), or is it more involved than that?
@@protocolsev I just use a different duct. Can't post links, but I'm currently using the "Prusa MK3S and MK3S+ Fan Duct with PINDA Support" by KalleKnall on Printables. The Delta-P duct by teookie is pretty popular too. I used that for a while and it's definitely better than the stock cooler, but in my experience it doesn't cool the rear very effectively. I also installed an Orbiter V2 extruder using the Zorbiter toolhead you can find on Printables. The stock MK3S extruder is very susceptible to inconsistent extrusion if parts are even slightly misaligned (look up issue #602). Using the Orbiter made a massive difference in print quality and made printing filaments like TPU much easier. I also installed a Revo hotend, but that doesn't really impact print quality at all. Those are the only changes I've made and the quality of prints I get is easily on par with the MK4.
I wonder when the full version of klipper would be released I had told a buddy of mine to use the e3v3se not knowing the e3v3ke was gping to be available and he wants klipper. Hopefully not to long. I'm happy the machine has more pros than cons. Gg
I think my s1 pro is relatively decent for a new person that ends up causing more issues when trying to fix problems (that's how you learn, right?!) but I impulse bought the ke and should receive it in a couple of days. I don't adapt well (iPhones look similar to galaxies but the basics all being in different places annoys me and i usually just have my husband find what I need when I use his iPhone) to new UI (older ender 3 screens honestly terrify me a bit) so I hope that I can adjust to all of the new software and UI on this one. Right now, my s1 pro is giving me fits on leveling and I would just love to not have to fight with that so much and being able to increase my speeds to 25 or 50% print time reductions without having to learn about mods would be great. I am the very introductory user that doesn't want to literally feel like I have to be an engineer to 3d print that these newer printers are trying to attract into the market. When 3d printing was a new thing I knew it wasn't for me, but these changes are making it so less knowledgeable and not into tinkering types can find success within the 3d printing world. Fingers crossed i like the ke.
One of the sacrifices that they make to lower the cost could be not paying their staff good enough :P As with every other cheap equipment you can buy. I could be 200% wrong on that :)
Well they certainly aren't paying me enough!🤣 I assume they pay average or better than their peers in the country that they operate in. I don't have any source for that, but they have pretty low turnover compared to other companies as far as I can tell.
A few things i dislike about the latest creality printers: Why the hell 36t pulleys? Yoi have to use larger steppers and more current just to be able to use the less accurate stealthchop mode in conjunction with larger pulleys that make any inaccuracies in the steppers even more prominent. Also stealthchop at that speeds is pretty pointless as the fans will always be the loudest parts. Also why smooth idlers on the toothed side of the belt? There is a reason teethed idlers exist and should be used, especially since people like to overtighten belts. This only applies to a few machines, but its really prominent on the ender 3v3ke: creality, please start routing your belt parallel to the axis, it helps with accuracy, otherwise 20mm in the middle wont be 20mm at the edge of the axis. With all that critique said, finally some printers that really just work, dont require you to have watched 10 videos on how to level your bed, finding the right settings for your filament in order to not create a blob of death and most importantly aren't overpriced like their previous printers (come on, asking 380 euros for a 3s1 is a bit overly ambitious)
Here’s the problem with the A1 They are probably going to force you to bundle it with the AMS lite for the first 2-3 months. So it’s not a budget package, it’s probably something like 2x the cost. If you have the budget, the A1 will almost certainly print better, but then again it is a 2x more expensive machine.
this test is really not fair, since the galaxy black filament masks most print defects and te blue creality stuff actually makes the defects even more visible than normal glossy filament, end of the day i do respect and like prusa for their work aswell, but this is just dirty(ish).
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
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I feel like Bambu kind of forced Creality to finally deliver a true ease of use machine. Unfortunately there are a ton of old models people will unwittingly buy. I warned a guy buying a v2 on Black Friday that it was really outdated but he was adamant it was good for being his first printer. I just knew he was going on old information.
Right? my V2 has been collecting dust for like 2 years now. Hated my user experience with that machine (of course it varies from person to person but still)
@@nv2940 some people are really in that old mindset of manually adjusting everything. And influencers don’t go back and update their old recommendations. The amount of money I used to modernize my v2 was the cost of a whole new machine.
Yeah they really need to discontinue the old models and just forward those people to the new models.
@@NathanBuildsRobots they can't, Creality has a huge market on developing countries like the ones located on Latinamerica, i'm talking about countries were Bambu Lab is sold three time it's original value (México) or Anycubic/Elegoo printers are unavaible (Chile, Argentina, Peru, etc).
The old ender 3's are cheap enough and so economic to maintain to the point is nearly obligatory to own one if you want to go into 3D printing
There can be no problem if the S1 goes to hell, but if the Ender 3 Pro is discontinued then the hit will be enormous for a lot of people that is from a country whose main language is not English
Not only Bambu Lab, but Creality was forced by all the market in general, when the S1 was the novelty the Neptune 3 Pro appeared, nowadays a lot of economic bedslingers follow the same concept of the Neptune 3 Pro
I have 2 P1Ss and 2 Ender 3 S1, got myself 3 of the KE and wow, I'm blown away. All the finicking I had to do on the S1 are gone and it just works. As you mentioned, it really is equivalent to the simplicity of the Bambus. Plus I find them more silent then the P1S at regular speed.
Thanks, glad you agree with the assessment.
We are basically at a point where companies are deciding whether or not the user should be involved with the setup and assembly of the printer.
Currently Bambu Lab, Creality, and FlashForge have moved to a zero manual calibration setup.
Elegoo, PRUSA, QIDI, etc. Are still requiring users to do some very minimal calibration during setup. But just taking away the last steps and making it fully automatic really changes the user experience. You go from requiring some skill to get it working properly, to requiring zero skill and it makes it much more suitable for productive environments and absolute beginners alike.
What do you mean no credibility? Man you’re one of the best on RUclips for 3d printing content!
Good job sir. I don’t care what BL says about you. I think you are the definitive source for 3D printing news and information.
This convinced me to pull the trigger on the KE. I was this close grabbing a P1S + AMS. I really thought about my actual needs vs frivolous wants and settled on this plus the Nebula camera. Could not be happier. Just updated the firmware for root access and I'm off and running. Absolutely no regrets. Less than $350 got me all the things I really want in a printer and so far the performance is everything I had been lacking in my original Ender 3 with a handful of upgrades. Printing is fun again.
I have an A1 mini and as much as I love it, it's super annoying not being able to set custom filament profiles in the AMS. Having a printer that you can modify in any which way you like is freeing, but does open the door to headaches. That is part of the hobby imo.
The mess on the floor, the tilted 90 degree monitor, the missing ceiling tile, the cabinets that are half open, one big mess on the table.. This all screams not being serious in your production...
Jk; i love how you low key take a "Bambu poop" on those other fancy youtubers that are in immaculate studio's.. yet you cant even take them seriously. You outperform them on info, benchmarks and rumours any day of the week. Unfiltered and honest info at it's best!
😁
If anything its too staged. I bet if you pan the camera around there would be holes in the dry wall from Nathan punching the wall in frustration. C'mon Nathan! stop staging your set up and show us how bad it really is!!! Jks.
I need Bambu Lab to send me a printer. I would put it in the ceiling and have it poop on my head while filming.
Everyone seems to like Adam savage. His space is far from perfect lol
100% correct about the build sheet on the Ender 3 V3 SE - it ripped on about the 5th print. Luckily I was able to get the PEI sheet on Prime same day delivery (UK), which has been great ever since. It's my first 3d printer and that was the only thing that spoiled the first time user experience.
Thanks for this excellent (and fair) two part review, there's a huge amount of value in the upgrades over the SE, a single board computer with a decent touch screen, extra part cooling blower, ceramic heater hot end, filament run-out sensor, linear rail on the X axis and PEI sheet is well worth the extra $80... I can't tell for sure but looking at the SE and KE side by side, the stepper motor perched on the X axis also seems larger (which would probably make sense to handle higher speeds without bursting into flames), if this is indeed the case, I imagine the Y axis stepper motor might be also larger and that then stretches that extra $80 even further.
Keep doing the good work you do, your content is great and I've gone ahead and hit the subscribe button :)
Totally agree, and the fact that they say to get the upgrades later, just wait until you can afford the KE, wayyy more worth it.
Thanks for the review.
My Kingroon just died and was going to order a SE but after watching this I ordered the KE.
Yo, it's about Nathan, not your average citizen,
Builds robots in the day, by night he's scribblin'.
Reviews on printers, detailed and specific,
His knowledge on tech, man, it's terrific.
Nathan, Nathan, the robot creator,
Print reviews so fine, ain't no one greater.
In the world of tech, he's a navigator,
Nathan, Nathan, the innovator.
(Verse 2)
From 3D to laser, he knows them all,
Print quality, speed, he's on the ball.
And his robots, they stand tall,
In the tech arena, he's having a ball.
Hell yes
Just ordered the Ender 3 V3 KE, was looking at the S1 pro but snagged this one. I know nothing about 3D printing. Complete noob so, subscribed and looking forward to learning more. :)
Great job Creality. You have the Ender 3 SE budget version, Ender 3 KE tricked out version. Now make a printer 300 x 300 x 400 build volume, built the same as these Enders, but beefed up a bit for the larger size. Have an SE and KE version of this printer. Call this Printer "CR-10 V4". Get rid of all other bed slinger models.
They are coming out with a 300x300 CoreXZ Bedslinger that will be just as fast as the K1 Max called the Ender 3 V3 Plus
@@NathanBuildsRobots I don't get the point of CoreXZ other than being different for the sake of being different. Maybe it will be great, I don't know. I think they should just stay with Standard Mendal design for the bed slingers. Lots of other types of machines they could develop, for instance a true high temp chamber machine (PEEK, PEK capable). Great videos by the way.
@@f1hotrod527The difference is speed. Voron printers are much faster.
@@SiXiam vorons are obsolete. And I was not talking about corexy. I was talking about corexz. Corexz makes no sense. You are solving a problem that does not exist and not addressing a problem that does.
@@f1hotrod527Why do you say Voron is obsolete? Also first time I've heard of the other core...
After many years of using bed slingers, the new era enclosed corexy with its smaller footprint is appreciated. I have an original CR-10 that is the best that it can be with tons of mods, but I am looking towards purchasing a 300x300 corexy to regain bench top area. I did a lot of printing for Christmas stuff and the printer issues I had were self-inflicted - wrong bed temp, profile, etc. - and not really the printers as much any more. Big change from years ago. Best argument I can give for the slingers is that you can see everything going on much better and can "fuss" with the print while it's printing. I will still keep one or two.
What did you end up choosing, looking for a similar build volume
@@archivedcafeteria Still investigating options - more and more large format corexys are being released.
@@reasonablebeing5392 Agh it's tricky haha, so many options, and everyone has a different experience, let me know what you end up choosing thanks :)
3D printer manufacturers did a lot for ease of use and printing speed in 2023, largely as a result of Klipper. Now I wish they'd work on better, more durable extruders. They cost reduced them until bearings are captured by thin plastic injection molded parts. I'd pay $100 more for a really good and well tested direct drive extruder that reliably extrudes PLA, TPU, ABS, PETG, ASA, etc. Also, quit making proprietary high flow nozzles for each model and only releasing them in 0.4 mm diameter and brass. We need 0.2 to 1.0 mm, in brass and abrasion resistant steel, and we automatically have that if a standard high flow nozzle is used.
So it sounds like input shaping is literally cutting corners. Great example on the benchy.
Ive never seen it that clearly before, but yeah, every printer with input shaper cuts corners, its just a matter of how much they need to be cut.
Lots of industrial printers opt to avoid input shaping as much as possible, and instead make a super stiff frame and motion system so they can still come up with sharp corners.
Thanks Nathan. I did the original preorder and got four rolls of filament and the KE delivered for $280. I shouldn't buy printers when I'm high though because it just showed up and I forgot I bought it. It's been sitting around for a couple weeks unopened. Somehow I managed NOT to pick up a K1 Speedy or that B&H Photo $600 Max. *sigh*
I have a Max, an E5S1 and a built V2. I'll never own a Bambu Labs for numerous reasons. I got the KE because it's the most built E3 ever and I felt like it was sort of a mix of nostalgic and futuristic. Also, I have a spare acrylic enclosure. So, when the KE arrived I figured I'd sell it online, but I dunno, maybe it'll be fun to unbox and fiddle with. Thanks for the review, as always. Keep being weird. :)
So, unpacked and assembled the KE (10 minutes) and then printed the included "Boat." (about 15 minutes). Hmmm, I guess I'll print something with it today. ;)
It looks like a great printer, I really wish I could have gotten one of these at the time I bought my S1 pro. That would have saved a lot of aggravation, but I've got the S1 Pro dialed in now and I'm comfortable with it. It's good enough for now. When I upgrade I'll almost certainly go with a core xy (voron, bambu, k1, that kind of printer).
I would be very interested in a deep dive as to what keeps the print quality from being better. That would be informative and any learnings there would likely apply to other printers.
Even with the S1 hey? I've been running on my Ender 3 V2 for a while and just having frustrations after frustrations but it's been going well lately. I was really close to getting an S1 pro thinking it would run generally reliably but ended up taking a day to sort my issues on the E3v2.
Hoping to get something seemingly reliable for around $500 bucks soon.
So far my KE farm running with no problem since out of box...
Still i miss those silent board printer...sound pollution is terrible with all those high speed printer especially when branch of them in one room
PIcked up my first 3d printer on B.F. a neptune 4 I won this printer from creality on xmas. Time to make a list of some basic upgrades for both. Havent' stopped printing since I picked up the neptune. Addicting.
Wow and golly gee Batman.......seeing the size of that waste bin printed on the Ender 3 SE gets me all worked up and I'm just waiting for my ender 3 SE to arrive.....I didn't realize that the 3 model could print so big..
I have KE and it is pretty good. There was bed adhesion issue that I fixed but overall really good.
I am curious where to find CHT nozzles for the KE.
Does it have any other problems? I am looking for a new 3d printer, But so far I have heard both good and bad things about ender 3 v3 ke, so not really sure
@@morc700 As long as you are following a maintenance schedule and monitoring the printer, it works well. I wish there was a CHT nozzle for the printer, but, overall it has been consistently(5 days a week)printing for 2 months with little issue. I did have one failed print out of 100, due to bed adhesion.
@@spendymcspendy Thanks for sharing!
I was dead set on the KE for my next printer (I currently have a lightly modded Ender 2 Pro), but with the A1 coming out soon, I might go that route. Looking forward to you comparing these two machines soon!
I won't, Bambu Lab refuses to send me printers.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Ah, that's a pity, but fair enough!
#notashill@@NathanBuildsRobots
Nathan you are the best 😇
I put all of my "fast" printers, on concrete block supports on 3/4 inch heavey MDF. This keeps the printer stable and the Ender 3 V3 prints much better than your sample.
I really liked your "Please subscribe" begging at around 16:30, so I subscribed! 😅 In any case, I liked your video, overall, so I was happy to subscribe ;-)
Cool music dude. Highly anticipated video!!
You don't need to beg people to subscribe. Your content is enough! 👍
Plz, I’m begging you. Begging works, I’ll get better at it, I promise!
This is a great video, thank you. I am reslly struggling to pull the plug and order my first proper 3D printer. I was going to order the A1 but that is currently offsale so now I am torn between the Ankermake M5C or this one. What would you recommend or is there another printer that would be better suited? I really like the automatic bed levelling feature as i feel like I need to manually do my Ender 3 V2 after every print. Thanks for the great content and I really appreciate your advice.
I got mine v3 KE yesterday, wow after first ender 3 this is stupid fast.
Since you did a video on silent Fan modification, could you once do a comparison which 3d printer is the quietest? I know it depends on print speed much, but ever since i started 3d printing the loudness bothered me, but I didn’t find much information about the loudness of printers in comparison
good video. I'm currently researching fdm printers and I'm holding out to see how the FLSUN S1 and T1 turn out. Any plans on reviewing either of those? BTW I sub'd and liked.
what is the layer width and nozzle on that trash can? I want more of prints like that!
I think the walls are just under a CM thick, I forget the layer width and thicknesses, but it was printed on a 1.0mm nozzle, so maybe 2mm wide, 1mm layer height
Can you please drop a guide how to calibrate the ender v3 KE there is nothing out there how to set the rotational e steps thank you !!
Subscribed! Thank you for the very detailed and excellent reviews! I was really confused about all this new Ender 3 an CR10 models... now I see much clearer! :o) (so tired of all those hyped "reviews" how great the new xy printer is...)
Thank you, great review ! Are you going to do review of new Artillery Sidewinder X4 Pro when it become available in february ? I don't know should i choose V3 KE or X4 Pro :/ X4 Pro seems to have some advantages over V3 KE
Hi Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro or Ender 3 V3 KE which printer will be better?
What do you think about the Klipper on the KE?
Are we going to be able to have all the freedom of the open source Klipper soon?
Non official is already out, official open rooted FW coming in a few weeks.
Mine will be here tomorrow !
9:25 - I'm not sure I'd want a printer that ends up messing up a print so much that square parts of the print end up being rounded off. How slow do you have to go down to before it stops doing that and gives the square edges, and stops rounding off the perimeters so much that they fail to join like they are doing on the back part of the benchy?
Thanks for your reviews and compairison with the E3 V3 SE and KE. in your opinion would the SE be improved with the nebula screen. I know it is missing features in comparison to the KE but in the upgrade channels available, would be nebula pad be a good upgrade?
I just bought the Ender 3 V3 KE, it should arrive on friday, it was a huge upgrade from my ender 3 v2 neo, I have mixed feelings for my v2 neo 😂, it was my first printer and it wasnt easy to calibrate the bed, I still have issues with the bed leveling, i have to level the bed every 5 prints... I hate that part about my v2 neo... Unfortunately the old ender 3's are cheap enough and so economic to maintain to the point is nearly obligatory to own one if you want to go into 3D printing in Chile, I wanted a bambu lab printer, but it's nearly impossible to get one shipped from usa, some stores have preorders for bambu labs printers but they are overpriced 😭.
Hey, what is the Y axis Timing Belt Pulley Teeth number? please on the creality Ender 3 v3 ke
But the KE hat the same ceramic/volcano K1 style Hotend.
I would like to see, as an experiment, the SE or KE changing from printing PLA to ABS. Does the Z offset test actually compensate for the different bed and nozzle temps?
As someone who has been printing for 5 years now, I really want one printer than can switch filament types in a hurry without having to stick my head inside a hot enclosure, to dial in the Z offset/squish, with a bed that's 100c.
ABL by itself won't do this, simply because the thermal expansion of the bed and the thermal expansion of the nozzle - and the differences in thermal expansion between PLA printing temps and ABS printing temps - will alter the Z offset enough to be a problem.
To me, that is the promise of a leveling system that uses the nozzle as the probe. But that has issues as well. So... Does this Z offset testing system on the V3 SE and KE actually deliver on that promise?
Throw it in an enclosure and test it for us.
I refuse to enclose a bed slinger. It just ain’t right. But rerunning the auto calibration would almost certainly work for switching from high temp to lower temp
I've just got the KE and printed their default Benchy. The printer ran like a lunatic and printed it perfectly in 16 minutes. However if I convert a benchy to GCODE in the new Creality Print for windows, with the settings as fast as possible, I can only get it to 27 minutes. Why is that?
Good question. They probably sliced it using a special high speed profile!
Thanks for the fast reply. I did find someone ask the same question on Reddit. The answer was 'If you Filter the slice preview by speed you will see that it's slower than the set value. You will probably need to tweak the min layer time to get it lower if it's at >5s' Apparently that was successful, but I have no idea what they mean. @@NathanBuildsRobots
Which is better this or the Elegoo Neptune 4? Thanks for your response!
Oi Nathan,i'm thinking by an Ender3v3ke to print TPU/PLAFLEX,do you consider a good idea?will work as well?
Thanks
Any newer printer, including the KE, should do pretty well with flexible filaments.
Probably the best setup would be a Microswiss NG extruder kit installed onto an older printer. I know someone that runs a small flexibles print farm that uses them because they are very well optimized for flexibles.
Which is better for beginners
Creality ender 3 v3 ke
Sovol s7
Neptune 4 pro
V3 ke vs cr 10 se which one to go with ? As getting both at a same price
I’m having some annoying issues with my KE, if I print over 200 mm/s I get major layer shift
Check belt tension, if its loose the belt can slip.
Might be something binding, or motor driver overheating and getting weak.
or it could just be running into something. Issues like this often take a while to troubleshoot
@@NathanBuildsRobotsbelts are as tight as they can get, even tried making shorter ones, got the Y nice and tight, but the X, that’s another story. The tensioners don’t have enough travel to get the belts that tight, be nice if there was a spacer for the X to give the tensioner a little extra travel
Something, something, interaction. Oh and PA could be too high, is that enabled by default? That is a point that is missing, where printer.cfg I bet they increased the hotendtemp no raise time from 20 to 200 again...
CR-10 SE or Ender 3v3 KE ?? Which is better?
great comparison. i just setup a V3 SE and auto z worked great. but the print quality from creality slicer was awful. same print via prusa slicer was perfect. even after reducing stock accelerations. when do we get to see the robots dude?
I'm building one now. Technically it's a 3D printer, but hey, 3D printers are robots.
Yeah Creality Print is based on CURA instead of PRUSA Slicer. I much prefer the output from PRUSASLICER/Bambu Studio/Orca Slicer.
Really like your review and comparison.
I am looking forward to purchase my first 3D Printer in few days. Am more inclined toward Ender 3 V3 KE, but am also trying to compare between V3 KE and Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro as both are available at my place and have somewhat similar pricing.
Will appreciate if you could share your opinion between these 2 3D printers, and also your suggestion. And how does this compare to Anycubic Kobra 2/pro?
Thanks and Subscribed 👍
If you are brand new t0 3D printing, the Ender 3 v3 KE will be easier to set up and start using, and has good enough print quality.
The Neptune 4 has a little bit more overhead in terms of performance and print quality, but it is a little more difficult to set up and use properly. There are some manual calibrations that must be done to get things running perfectly.
I love your humor
Any chance you can do a walk through of rooting the KE?
Have you had issues with LAN printing? Seems like whenever I use LAN printing the temp changes. I will have 215 selected for filament temp and it prints at 205 or some other random number. Then I have to adjust it on the app or printer. It’s weird and I can’t figure it out. Doesn’t do it on USB printing it seems.
Is there some hidden slicer setting that could be doing it? That is one complaint I have about creality print, and slicers in general. Sometimes settings are established in multiple areas
@@NathanBuildsRobots I looked in both the materials section in the print settings and the materials section on the side and both show my saved temp. But seems like whenever I print via LAN it changes my temp. Doesn’t appear to do that on USB. It’s very weird and I can’t figure it out. lol
For the same price, does it make sense to buy this over the Flashforge Adventurer 5M?
I just unsubscribed so I could hit the subscribe button again. Subscribed!
I created 29k alt accounts and subscribed to my channel so you wouldn't feel like the only subscriber.
Hey Nathan can you please talk about why connecting a generic $2 webcam to the Ender v3 KE won't work but to Kingroon Klipper works? What did Creality do? I own a KE by the way and want to use the cam but don't like to pay for proprietary cam especially that it's not even fitting into and integrating into the KE printer like the K1 camera does. It's just a loose webcam on a cheap tripod.
I can see what happens if I plug a webcam in.m, but I have not tried that yet.
Ender 3 v3 ke vs Bambu a1 which one would you recommend?
Anyone know if you can entirely disable or remove the wifi antenna on it?
at the same given price would you get the elegoo neptune v4 or this one ? I'd love the autocalibration thing, but I'm not a fond of not having genuine klipper, also I've heard the neptune has better print quality.
Yep, agree on all counts.
This one is lower maintenance and easier to set up, so it’s a trade off. Depends on your oriorities
@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks for the answer, I'm having a hard time deciding.
I was more or less ready to take the KE because the proprietary nozzle on the N4 scared me away and the hand free calibration was something I was looking into.
But now I'm eyeballing an open box N4 for 100 USD less and it looks like too good a deal to pass on.
Same for the linear rails, I was happy to move away from the pom wheels that tend to lose uniformity over time, but if it induces worst prints I'm not sure anymore.
Also last time I picked a Longer printer over a creality to save a few bucks, I had a hell of a hard time to upgrade it afterwards will with the community behind the ender 3 I would have been much better.
All together, between a (40%) cheaper N4 and a Ender 3 v3 KE would you still consider the more expensive one ?
So i have an ender 3 pro for a few years now with almost no problems, i just hate bed calibration every now and then. Is there a reason i should buy one of those new Printers? Besides the bed leveling are they faster and better print quality?
Would the Ender 3 V3 SE able to user the KE’s touch pad? Or is the “Sonic Pad” for the SE a better route?
I'm not sure what the upgrade path would look like there. They use a similar mainboard, so maybe there would be a way to update to KE, but it wouldn't be completely straightforward.
Yes! that laptop is vicious. Oh, this is for the printer review?
Is the Ender 3 V3 KE equivalent to the K1 in terms of print quality and speed?
No, it is not as good in either measurement. It's about 25% slower than the K1, and the quality isn't as good when you look closely.
The Ender 3 CoreXY version should be equivalent to the K1 in a bedslinger format. It has been announced but has not been released yet
No.
a got a K1 on black friday sale 2023 and a love it, if you can afford it by K1
My next printer may be the V3 Plus. Will be interesting to compare it to my K1 Max. Battle of the second axis! Sounds cool, doesn't it?
@@NathanBuildsRobots
I'm undecided whether to get an Ender 3 v3 KE or a Neptune 4 Pro. Any suggestion ?
Neptune 4 Pro has better print quality, part cooling, and is running almost a completely stock klipper install.
Ender 3 V3 KE requires less set up, and runs Creality Print, which is kind of a con. It's not that bad.
So would the Neptune 4 pro be a better option?@@NathanBuildsRobots
Hello! With a ps/2 to ubs i can use the creality pad g-sensor?
Need more ender 2 high flow content
What about comparing to bambulab a1/a1 mini? From a print quality perspective, planning to build functional parts mostly, and it's gonna be my first printer 😊
Get the A1 if you want flawless faces, the KE has vfa at many lower speeds.
Excellent video, and the had was an excellent choice 😅.
Im getting mine in a couple days. I downloaded Ultimaker Cura but i don't see the KE on the list of supported printers. The SE is there why not this one? HELP
Tried this machine and I was very disappointed went for a K1 and at least is gives me results that I wanted
What did you see as the main benefit of the K1 over the KE for you?
9:12 Hmm... going by what I learnt from tinkering with Klipper on my OG Ender 3 from 2018, that looks more like way too high pressure advance instead of input shaper to me. also @huzelgnurk mentioned something similar a moment ago... 🤔
I wonder if yours was hand checked before they sent it to you. Most of the reviews on their site aren't great.
My prints keep folding up and seperating from the bed on the KE. Its been frustrating and I'm considering returning it. Probably user error because I am a noob but I have tried everything.
The auto z offset is too high. Lower it by 0.1 after the calibration using the adjustment tab menu on the touchscreen.
@@oldman1944 thanks for the help. I was able to fix the issue with a glue stick and adding a brim.
Great video!
where do you get those prints for testing?
Interesting, I thought the ke looked better than the prusa result
Don’t sell out like the next layer!
What do you mean next layer is a sellout?
No idea, I just didn’t like him commenting on your a1 video haha
So I understand there is quite a price difference but how does it compare to the creality K1? It seems like the extruder and speeds are very similar.
This or k1 if i can enclose this printer?
I feel like those test prints show the importance of modding/tuning printers. I was curious how my modded MK3S+ would stack up so I ran that same calibration test print. I got flawless print quality and overhangs that were on par with the KE (Prusa's stock cooling is garbage). I don't think we'll ever get to the point where printers can print 100% perfectly out of the box, there is just too much variance in filament. Hell, even different colors of PLA from the same manufacturer can require different temperatures and flow rates in my experience.
I'll be curious to see what results you get from modding and tuning the KE and SE. I bet you can get them both to produce pretty good results that would rival the MK4.
I've been looking at modding my MK3S, any tips for the cooling specifically? Like does it need a new fan duct (I have some ASA I can print them with), or is it more involved than that?
@@protocolsev I just use a different duct. Can't post links, but I'm currently using the "Prusa MK3S and MK3S+ Fan Duct with PINDA Support" by KalleKnall on Printables. The Delta-P duct by teookie is pretty popular too. I used that for a while and it's definitely better than the stock cooler, but in my experience it doesn't cool the rear very effectively.
I also installed an Orbiter V2 extruder using the Zorbiter toolhead you can find on Printables. The stock MK3S extruder is very susceptible to inconsistent extrusion if parts are even slightly misaligned (look up issue #602). Using the Orbiter made a massive difference in print quality and made printing filaments like TPU much easier. I also installed a Revo hotend, but that doesn't really impact print quality at all. Those are the only changes I've made and the quality of prints I get is easily on par with the MK4.
I wonder when the full version of klipper would be released I had told a buddy of mine to use the e3v3se not knowing the e3v3ke was gping to be available and he wants klipper. Hopefully not to long. I'm happy the machine has more pros than cons. Gg
I think my s1 pro is relatively decent for a new person that ends up causing more issues when trying to fix problems (that's how you learn, right?!) but I impulse bought the ke and should receive it in a couple of days. I don't adapt well (iPhones look similar to galaxies but the basics all being in different places annoys me and i usually just have my husband find what I need when I use his iPhone) to new UI (older ender 3 screens honestly terrify me a bit) so I hope that I can adjust to all of the new software and UI on this one. Right now, my s1 pro is giving me fits on leveling and I would just love to not have to fight with that so much and being able to increase my speeds to 25 or 50% print time reductions without having to learn about mods would be great. I am the very introductory user that doesn't want to literally feel like I have to be an engineer to 3d print that these newer printers are trying to attract into the market. When 3d printing was a new thing I knew it wasn't for me, but these changes are making it so less knowledgeable and not into tinkering types can find success within the 3d printing world. Fingers crossed i like the ke.
Big change from part 1 - after all of the teasing comments on his hair, Nathan is wearing a hat in part 2.
Lol, look what you did!
The hat was at a jaunty angle, nice 😂
@@NathanBuildsRobots - I ain't here for the hair, son. I subscribed for the honest engineering analysis.
So im not missing much if i get this compared to a p1p or k1?
COREXYs print slightly faster and with more perfect print quality, and are enclosed.
But overall feature set and user experience is very similar.
@@NathanBuildsRobots thank you good sirrrrr
SE must stand for starter edition and KE must stand for klipper edition
which is better Ender 3 S1 anycubic kobra 2 or Ender 3 V3 SE
SE
@@GoldFus1on Thanks!!
One of the sacrifices that they make to lower the cost could be not paying their staff good enough :P
As with every other cheap equipment you can buy.
I could be 200% wrong on that :)
Well they certainly aren't paying me enough!🤣
I assume they pay average or better than their peers in the country that they operate in. I don't have any source for that, but they have pretty low turnover compared to other companies as far as I can tell.
What settings did you use for the new nozzle, or are they already on the slicer?
I'm just using the stock profiles
A few things i dislike about the latest creality printers:
Why the hell 36t pulleys? Yoi have to use larger steppers and more current just to be able to use the less accurate stealthchop mode in conjunction with larger pulleys that make any inaccuracies in the steppers even more prominent. Also stealthchop at that speeds is pretty pointless as the fans will always be the loudest parts.
Also why smooth idlers on the toothed side of the belt? There is a reason teethed idlers exist and should be used, especially since people like to overtighten belts.
This only applies to a few machines, but its really prominent on the ender 3v3ke: creality, please start routing your belt parallel to the axis, it helps with accuracy, otherwise 20mm in the middle wont be 20mm at the edge of the axis.
With all that critique said, finally some printers that really just work, dont require you to have watched 10 videos on how to level your bed, finding the right settings for your filament in order to not create a blob of death and most importantly aren't overpriced like their previous printers (come on, asking 380 euros for a 3s1 is a bit overly ambitious)
Holding my breath......
Get this man some Cred
I wonder how the new Ender 3 V3 will stack up against the SE and KE.
Its basically an unenclosed K1. Same speed and mostly the same hardware as the K1
...are we just going to gloss over the Rat Rig posing on the left there?
so nathan would you recommend waiting for the bambulab A1 or buy the v3 KE
Here’s the problem with the A1
They are probably going to force you to bundle it with the AMS lite for the first 2-3 months. So it’s not a budget package, it’s probably something like 2x the cost.
If you have the budget, the A1 will almost certainly print better, but then again it is a 2x more expensive machine.
@@NathanBuildsRobots thank you you are so right so I ordered an KE thanks for your input
this test is really not fair, since the galaxy black filament masks most print defects and te blue creality stuff actually makes the defects even more visible than normal glossy filament, end of the day i do respect and like prusa for their work aswell, but this is just dirty(ish).
4kg of material in the trashcan? Thats one expensive bin!