I had a theory it would be them injectors. This is just a thought when you're changing your spark plugs it doesn't hurt to put a little bit of anti seize on the threads for the future.
Reduce the torque value when using anti-seize, typically about 25% less, because it's lubricating the threads and the FSM torque values are specified for dry threads. Failure to account for this can strip the threads because more force is being applied than realized.
Mine burnt 2 intake valves. 1 on cyls 1&4. Less than .008 on all exhaust valves. Was the thinnest had at the time. .008 on all intake valves strangely so in spec but still burnt 2. Future reference check valve lash every so often
Mine only has a random misfire at startup and will do this for about 30 seconds and then straightens up and runs smoothly all day even after several stops throughout the day. I got the truck after the owner did a butcher job changing the head gasket. He had it mistimed and it broke the timing chain. After replacing the chain and gear assembly, along with a new cover, oil pump and water pump. Replaced all the wires, plugs and repaired every pigtail and sensor (he broke everyone of them), I was able to troubleshoot the engine over heating problems to a broken vacuum line that was on a ported vacuum that controlled the eve. It was the initial cause of the engine over heating and they pulled the head off for no reason other than that. I had pulled the injectors off, put a 9 volt battery on them and sprayed carb and choke spray through them. This is where I went wrong by just not changing them. The truck has been running fine and never gave me any problems until now. I’m gonna change the injectors. I’m thinking that one of them is leaking down and the fuel pressure is leaking down after sitting a couple days. Being a common rail system, it makes sense that it throws a random misfire code. Only through the code once but if this is what’s happening, it doesn’t matter which injector is causing the problem. It’s gonna act up until it gets sufficient and even pressure on all four. At least I’m praying that’s gonna be the issue. It maybe time for a fuel pump also cause I’m also thinking that the internal check valve is leaking by. Either way, I’m gonna fix it even though it straitens out after a half a minute or so. I don’t know if the guy had the head resurfaced or if he had it torqued down right or not and I no way of knowing if he had it checked for cracks or burnt valves. Not even sure if the valve clearances were in spec. I’m gonna think it’s not that. I just had back surgery and don’t know if I’m up for that challenge
Thanks for sharing. I have the same issue on a 1995 Tacoma 4x4 I just picked up a few days ago. Mine turns on but misfires on all 4 cylinders. Still haven't narrowed it down. Keep us updated
@@NuttyNu burnt valves on mine. One burnt intake valve on both cylinders 1&4. Got .008 between shims and cam lobes on intake side which is spec but .008 was thinnest gauge i had and couldnt get it under ANY of the exhaust valves. For some reason the valve “lash” shrinks instead of the typical grows like old school us domestics. So not getting valve lash checked and properly shimmed will wreck your valves and maybe head too
I had a theory it would be them injectors. This is just a thought when you're changing your spark plugs it doesn't hurt to put a little bit of anti seize on the threads for the future.
Reduce the torque value when using anti-seize, typically about 25% less, because it's lubricating the threads and the FSM torque values are specified for dry threads. Failure to account for this can strip the threads because more force is being applied than realized.
Also use copper anti seize, not regular stuff. Copper allows the electricity to flow better.
Good score on the truck. Hopefully the injectors get you going.
Do a compression test ..im a toyota tech 3rz motor are known for burnt valves
Okay!
I was thinking the same thing, its possible to be the fuel delivery, but I feel like that would cause the misfire always instead @ low RPMs.
I"m a RUclips Tec.........try to search and google the issues here on YT.
Mine burnt 2 intake valves. 1 on cyls 1&4. Less than .008 on all exhaust valves. Was the thinnest had at the time. .008 on all intake valves strangely so in spec but still burnt 2. Future reference check valve lash every so often
Mine only has a random misfire at startup and will do this for about 30 seconds and then straightens up and runs smoothly all day even after several stops throughout the day. I got the truck after the owner did a butcher job changing the head gasket. He had it mistimed and it broke the timing chain. After replacing the chain and gear assembly, along with a new cover, oil pump and water pump. Replaced all the wires, plugs and repaired every pigtail and sensor (he broke everyone of them), I was able to troubleshoot the engine over heating problems to a broken vacuum line that was on a ported vacuum that controlled the eve. It was the initial cause of the engine over heating and they pulled the head off for no reason other than that. I had pulled the injectors off, put a 9 volt battery on them and sprayed carb and choke spray through them. This is where I went wrong by just not changing them. The truck has been running fine and never gave me any problems until now. I’m gonna change the injectors. I’m thinking that one of them is leaking down and the fuel pressure is leaking down after sitting a couple days. Being a common rail system, it makes sense that it throws a random misfire code. Only through the code once but if this is what’s happening, it doesn’t matter which injector is causing the problem. It’s gonna act up until it gets sufficient and even pressure on all four. At least I’m praying that’s gonna be the issue. It maybe time for a fuel pump also cause I’m also thinking that the internal check valve is leaking by. Either way, I’m gonna fix it even though it straitens out after a half a minute or so. I don’t know if the guy had the head resurfaced or if he had it torqued down right or not and I no way of knowing if he had it checked for cracks or burnt valves. Not even sure if the valve clearances were in spec. I’m gonna think it’s not that. I just had back surgery and don’t know if I’m up for that challenge
Dam auto correct. I meant to control the EGR
I couldn't find the follow up vid to this misfire issue. Did the new injectors solve the issue?
No. Valves burnt. Got new head and overhaul it
Thanks for sharing. I have the same issue on a 1995 Tacoma 4x4 I just picked up a few days ago. Mine turns on but misfires on all 4 cylinders. Still haven't narrowed it down. Keep us updated
burnt valves, new head install
@@NuttyNu burnt valves on mine. One burnt intake valve on both cylinders 1&4. Got .008 between shims and cam lobes on intake side which is spec but .008 was thinnest gauge i had and couldnt get it under ANY of the exhaust valves. For some reason the valve “lash” shrinks instead of the typical grows like old school us domestics. So not getting valve lash checked and properly shimmed will wreck your valves and maybe head too
Fuel pumps don’t go out on Toyota’s lol. I know. Go with injectors. eBay.
do you have a video on removing fuel injectors on the 3rz? thanks
I don’t, but it’s really easy.
How many coil packs on that truck? Coils run cylinder 1 and 3 and another runs 2 and 4?
4
Good info.
You never mentioned the fuel filter !
It’s was due to burnt valve, cylinder #1
Hey Man did you get any damage from the earthquake?
NO
@@NuttyNu that's good glad you and yours are okay....Peace
You sold the trusty 22re to buy this?
22re wis way in the past
Next Week? BMH.............................Peace
So did changing the injectors fix the problem?
No, burnt valve
@@NuttyNu how much would it cost to fix a burnt valve
@@NuttyNu and how did you find out it was the burnt valve
@@NuttyNu what valve was burned??
So??