Fully Machined Custom Leadscrew 4140 | Lion Lathe Restoration
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 31 май 2024
- Today we use some 4140 prehard to make a new leadscrew for the 2-speed gearbox and tailstock that you saw us build for our Lion lathe in the last few videos. Enjoy!
Хобби
It's amazing how the entire lathe machine moves as the tool post is still during cuts. Fancy smancy !
Yes indeed
The 4140 looked like it machined beautifully…LOVE that American lathe
It’s a great machine
Really appreciate your videos. I have a great lathe and a great mill. I'm completely self-taught & greatly respect your knowledge. There are a few channels that I depend on for learning and you're one of them. I can't ever thank you enough for how much I've learned from you. Your impact on the world of machining will be permanent and good for all of us.
Awesome thanks I am self taught too only 3 years into machining. Anything is possible we are all learning!
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair That's great to hear. That's about how long I've had a 1960ish French DeValliere H140 Toolroom Lathe and a 1943 Cincinnati universal horizontal mill with vertical attachment. I've restored both, added VFDs and DRO & love it. They are both so precise.
@@Ideasite awesome
Another winner there Kyle. 👍
Thanks Tom
I love your content, and you exude confidence when explaining and performing your work. You have a new subscriber. I was surprised to hear uncertainty when you talked about your drawing. It looks very good, and I'm creating and using them all the time. Here's a hot tip for your next drawing; use ordinate dimensions. I started my career as a machinist, and I always had the absolute XY on the DRO set on the left front corner of the fixed jaw of the milling vise. I do my CAD drawings the same way, with each datum dimensioned like it will come up on the display.
Great tips thanks for the compliment
Love watching single point threading! Follow rest was definitely the way to go, better safe than sorry! Nice looking work for sure
Thanks 👍
that leadscrew looks very nice! Thank you for sharing 👍 ...btw...great filming & editing!
Thank you very much!
As a Machinist/Mechanic i can say: Good Job. Well done. 👍 Greets from Switzerland
Thank you very much!
Great camera work on the threading. I liked the hanging rotary table. You do what you have to do to get the job done!
Absolutely
Excellent job, Kyle.👍
Thanks!
Xlnt!
I like the follow rest…it looks like it burnished the tops of the threads. Really, very nice!
Yes! Thank you!
@Vanover Customs Very smart presentation of the risk your work piece will move and how to mitigate. I've avoided turning per-hardened steel for this very reason several times, now I think I can tackle it. Thank you.
You can do it! Thanks
This was a great video, Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Another interesting and educational video. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Good job 👍👍👍
Thanks Steve printing as we speak
Nice job.
Thanks!
Very Nice Job. .looks great. . should last a life time..
That's the plan!
The company l served my apprenticeship at and retired from we had some LeBlond Regals with Two Speed Tailstocks. They also had worm gear driven Depth Dials. Much nicer than relying on the scale on the quill
Yeah that sounds nice
Coolant!
No!
Nice work!! 👍🏻🎅🏻🇫🇮🇫🇮🇫🇮
Thank you
Happy Saturday !
You too!
Great job Kyle! I've not seen your follow rest video yet, ( but I will watch it) it does a great job. Can you tell me the nomenclature of the triangular insert tools you were using please? They work so well and I'd like to get some in 16 mm tool holder size for my lathe / mill combo machine. Thanks in anticipation of your answer, and boy did I love your videos on the rest of the gearbox tailstock for the Lion lathe.
The diamond shaped ones? Let me know I’m the timestamp in the video and I can tell you
Been a manual machinist for 30 years. This is the first video I’ve seen that makes the machining of a shaft all in one most most videos I see on RUclips, they turn the shaft from either end I was always taught to machine shafts in one set up to keep the concentricity right?
Yeah agreed. When starting out I flipped shafts a bunch and concerned my self w 4 jaws. 4 jaws have a place but on new parts I just wrench down on a 3 jaw and do everything in 1 op for better concentricity
Great detailed video. What type of thread inserts did you used for the acme cutting ?
I think they are kennametal. Cheapest ones I could find of eBay basically. Acme inserts can be hard to find, on eBay anyways. They are expensive retail price.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair thanks for the reply
@@user-ve5fm6qz9k np
Nice work, as always. Did you consider purring an endmill in the K&T spindle and cut the slot horizontally?
Hey Greg. No, I rarely use the K&T for light work. Horizontal mills are just not as efficient for certain operation. Cutting a keyway is one of those operations that really better suited for the vertical mill in terms of speed. I have done it a couple times more for nostalgia, but It’s so easy to go over to the vertical mill and just get the key way cut.
It’s also easier to indicate on the vertical mill so accuracy is more of a concern. My set up on the vertical is a little bit easier to find Center on.
You used the rest as a support rest not a follower rest, as it didn't really followed the cutter - at least from what I could see - but was opposite to it's location. Since it is a threading operation, the OD of the material did not changed, but if it was a cutting operation you would not get away with it.
Nice job though 👍👍👍
👍
Why have you changed the thread to left?
An other question: When you are cutting the bar (removing excess metal) does the mirror finish come about because of the sharpness of the cutter?
I actually changed the thread direction so that it would make the gearbox work in the correct direction. Surface finish comes from a lot of different factors correct insert, speed rate, RPM, etc..
Pero cada quien tiene su manera de hacerlo amigo exelente video 👍👏👏👏🙏
👍
Can you incorporate talking about the inserts you use and why for various operations next time.?
Maybe. Some people asked me to talk less some people asked me to talk more unfortunately I cannot please everyone what I do know is the videos where I talk more most people don’t watch nearly as much. It seems most people prefer less talking overall.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair that's cool. I'm just trying to learn. I find you have a good balance of explanation/machining and your content is A+. Something I don't really understand is rake angles on carbide inserts and how/why you select them. Figured you would be able to succinctly explain then demonstrate to help us better understand.
@@joejoesmojo32 yeah I enjoy teaching too I am still trying to find a good balance of explaining and machining. If you need more help send me an email at vanovercustoms@gmail.com
Didn’t even know that one can buy prehardened 4140. How hard is it?
32rockwell
Ese es un material muy bueno ya que tiene mucho carbono? Yo e fabricado esos tornillos para los tornos ? Y la rosca 1er la aproximó con una triangular y después la termino con la rosca acme y con la luneta fija
Very nice
Nice work! Question: my chart for a shaft that size shows a 1/4” key, whereas you have chosen 3/16. I’m curious if I’m mistaken ( novice here) or if there is another reason?
Not sure I don’t remember that was a while ago, but probably chose a bigger size for additional strength
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair3/16 is smaller than 1/4.
@@user-fy2tm2jg6c lol brain fart. Still human I guess.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepairjoin the club of all of us!
0:35 What hardness is th 4140 pre-hardened too? In one of my jobs to work with a lot of with HSS and Tool steels At a punch and shop manufacture) Turing any of that steel hardened is very rare :)
I know 4140 comes 28/32 RC, but it can be hardened a lot more, I read it CAN be turned even up to RC 40. What is your example pre-hardened to?
32-36 I believe
40RC is pretty soft for turning/milling, with the right inserts/tools you can turn pretty much anything. I used to hard turn/hard mill Carbide (75rc) punches for diesets
@@procyonia3654 very nice
25:49
you could have just flipped the table 90 degrees and used a keyway cutter to cut the slot or a thick slitting saw.....
Yes but I didn’t have the size on hand. Many ways to do the same thing
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair then why not take multiple passes? unless the diameter was the shortcoming then yeah that makes sense
@@ramentaryramblings using keyway cutters and slitting saws suck lol. An end mill is faster, more readily available and a more versatile tool on hand. If I can do it with carbide end mill versus a hss slitting saw I’ll attempt it will an end mill 9 times out of 10
Why are you going to use a Cast Iron nut instead of Bronze?
Cast iron last longer and that was what the original was made from. Brass is good too. Depends on the material the shaft is made from etc… softer shafts brass is better.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair Thanks for the information.
@@gags730 absolutely
The chip curling off when doing the acme thread made me want curly fries
Curley fries are so good
Those threads, one looks left the other looks like right thread. Do my eyes deceive me?
Your right they are different directions
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair So hows that to work? You want to turn the wheel bsckwards?
@@mikemakuh5319 no the gearbox uses 2 shafts so it reverses direction so I reversed threads to compensate
I presume that you are taking measurements on cold pieces, correct? I see little to zero use of any coolant followed by micking. Hummmmmm…. That piece has got to be hot as hell!
That is correct