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Aye bro same I’m 14 right now when I get my drivers license at 16 I’m planning to make an electric car from taking out the engine of a car and putting in an electric motor hopefully everything goes to plan in 2-3 years
You are really advising every one to try any work before prepare for repairing. That's actually should be the aim of every person. Thank you very much for such a detail analysis.
I converted a VW bug with a Raymond motor that had internal series connections like you mention. Indeed, when I first started the car I had 4 reverse speeds and 1 forward. I took the motor to a motor shop and the corrected the wiring for the direction I desired. These motors are powerful, heavy but easy to work with. I don't have the car anymore but it was a great learning "vehicle" for me. Thanks for making this video.
@@HTrntrs I went on and founded the Virginia chapter of the Electric Auto Association which helped a 6 or so individuals convert cars. I wrote a grant to purchase a professionally converted ford Escort car and installed a solar charging station for it. Since then I have moved on to teaching.
You are a great teacher. No extra information just straight to the point. Other guys on here just like to hear their own voices too much and I find it hard to follow. Thanks for this informal video.
Watched this video at least 6 times over the last 3 months and im just starting to understand how it works. Got my first dc motor today. An 11" traction. Excited and thank you, your videos have been super clear and great to follow.
Good information. I used one of these motors to power an electric farm utility vehicle and a useful small mod worth doing while the motor is apart, is to glue a thermocouple sensor to the stator winding. I just used a cheap digital thermometer and it gives me good warning about motor temp before any risk of winding damage occurs. Thanks for posting.
It is still going strong, just repacked second set of batteries after 10 years of daily use. $600 worth of batteries but we're still way in front over regular fuel cost for that same time. The only noticeable difference now is that its quieter, the commutator and gear train is completely smoothed out. Cheers
Very good explanation for a person who really hasn't worked with electric motors at all, talking about myself. I feel like you gave enough basic information on how it works to make my way through it.
Many years ago now, (1968) I had the electric drive motor from a milk float, a sort of small truck used for delivering milk here in the UK. The motor was arround 4 times the size of the one you have there. It was a compound motor that converted to a generator by reversing the series winding relative to the shunt. I have no idea of how many apms it could put out but the first time I tried charging a battery it boiled it and then blew it up inside of thirty seconds and it was not a small car battery but a very large tractor battery, I was 15 at the time and the idea was to provide power in a shed at the bottom of the garden to use as a lab.
do you still explore the inevitable horizon of known hazards - when i was young, it was "Gilbert Chemistry" in my 'danger if you stand too close' laboratory.. splash damage can be very unpredictable
You give very detailed instructions when you are explaining Motors. That is very helpful and useful I really appreciate you for that because I was always wondering where those extra two wires come from out of the motor you should become a college professor. Keep up the perfect work..👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍..... I love it
My unit was a 108 VDC system in a 1987 Toyota Corolla Station wagon. Used an S&S 48hp rated DC motor and Curtis controller, the lead acid 6VDC batteries were the really bad part - weight and the fact that they lasted me approx. 3 years! ($4800.00 for the batteries!) Still have the set up - had to replace the front end (it was originally automatic) put in a standard 4 speed, and clutch unit. It was a hoot when it ran, but doing it again I would save up and do an AC unit! And yes, built my own adapter plate for the transmission - and had a friction joint machined to do the join of engine to the transmission. It was a really steep learning curve time for me - on the job training - I had a bit of electronics under my belt but this thing was a whole new world in itself! - Build one you'll see what I mean. One of the best things I ever experimented with!
Ah, the days of the "Lead-Sled'! Batteries, motors, and controllers have all improved in that time. Building your own electric car is still a great project, although at this point it makes the most sense for a truck, convertible, or classic car. I can not say how much I learned from working on an electric car project. It really was a blast and tons of learning to boot!
Wow Benjamin, you are awesome! You have inspired me to go ahead with converting my 1992 Volvo 960 to electric. Old car but low mileage and zero rust. I think it will be relatively easy (ish) to convert due to the larger-than-average engine bay and rear wheel drive! Thank you so much! Your experience and insight is worth gold!
Depending on where you live, an older car can sometimes be licensed as "Classic" or "Hobbyist". These can offer an advantage of being less expensive to register, only have to pay a fee once, (instead of annual) etc. Check with your State or other appropriate government. Older cars are also often exempt from pollution control testing. Although an electric car makes no emissions at point of use, it can be a bunch of hassle and red tape to prove that to a government official!
Here's a little about when I took my project car in for emissions testing. It was an interesting experience, to say the least. 300mpg.org/projects/electro-metro/emissions-testing/
Hey thanks for the reply Benjamin. Yeah, although I don't live in the US. I live in Montreal and I assume laws differ here somewhat but I'll look into it. On another note though, I plan on removing the engine and transmission including the radiator allowing me to couple the DC motor directly to the drive shaft that connects to the differential in the rear end. Then I'm worried about weight... my Volvo is a solid steel beast weighing in at around 3500 lbs. To move that weight around I'll need more batteries... more batteries means more weight and more cost. The engine has an aluminum block (2.9L inline 6) so not as heavy as a cast iron block but certainly some weight can be saved by removing the engine and transmission. This might allow for more batteries. The other thing now is where to place all these batteries... the car's engine bay is enormous especially when the power train is removed but placing all those batteries in the engine bay will make the car very front-heavy and little weight to the rear-end. Use the trunk for battery placement and engine bay as a trunk perhaps? Anyhow, I'm looking into solving all these issues before starting to gut the car. Any suggestions? I very much value your experience.
Keep in mind that if you go straight to the driveshaft, you lose the gearing in the transmission and you only have the gear reduction of the differential. You will also need to add revers ELECTRONICALLY, by physically spinning the motor the other direction. (In my Geo Metro, the motor only spins the one direction, and I used reverse gear for backing up.) Because of the loss of gearing, vehicles with an electric motor going straight to the drive-shaft usually have used high power motors and higher voltage systems. Take at look at the EV Album (EVAlbum.com) to see some conversions people have done direct to driveshaft. As for weight and bulk of batteries, yes, more batteries you have the more weight there is. At this point, lithium batteries are a better choice than ever. I'm a big fan of used lithium batteries from salvaged vehicles. Cells from Nissan Leafs and Chevy Volts a readily available, and offer good power in less space and weight than lead acid ever did.
Great stuff... I know many people are afraid of using forklift motors. But I love 'em. They're cheap, and easy to work with. I also second your advice on not worrying much about the horsepower rating. That's only a continuous rating, and I've found that most motors are under-rated. Not only that, but the average motor can take over volting to increase the horsepower without any mechanical side effects. Just monitor heat, and everything will be fine. So, don't anyone be afraid of using forklift motors. They last forever, and do have a lot of power.
Dr fruikenstein any pointers from you would be appreciated. Can a inverter run this motor. And what sort of rpm can I achieve. Regards davesaxuk@aol .com
@@davestevens5159 Most retired forklifts will have a DC motor, as is the motor Ben features in the video. An inverter will only make the motor buzz. The easiest, best, and most reliable way to run a DC motor is with a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) controller. This controller runs the motor by pulsing a DC current to the motor, usually at battery pack voltage. It's relatively easy to hook up, and usually lasts for a few decades with proper care. There are other ways to run the motor that have been around since the 1890's. But those ways are more complicated, and not nearly as reliable. However, they still tend to last quite awhile with proper maintenance. Keep this video handy as Ben also shows how to maintain the motor. If you plan on driving at highway speeds, you'll also want to run the motor at a higher voltage. Between 72 and 120 volts.
What a great Idea, I never thought. My neighbour has 2 old fork lifts in his back yard and as far as I can tell their just big paper weights. He wants an old Vovo that I have. Done deal. One other thing I might suggest is when you have the commutator out you take a long thin strip of emery cloth to go right around the commutator and clean it up by going back and forth, and then break a hacksaw blade and under cut between each contact on the commutator. Makes one hell of a difference.
Absolutely! When I went to a forklift shop to get new brushes for this motor, I told them what I was doing and asked for advice. The guy there gave me a "commutator stone" and told me how to clean between the segments of the commutator. When I had the motor over at "Hot-Rod" Jim's place to work on the adapter plate between the motor and transmission, he put the commutator on his lathe and took off just a hair. It looked brand-new! I cleaned between the commutator segments with a pick (or with a hacksaw, like you said) and finally applied a little of the commutator stone when I ran in the brushes. For $100 and a little work, it was literally a brand new motor!
Beautifully done video and explanation. I'm an MS EE and CS. Practical, hands-on presentations like this are invaluable: from newbie genius scientists to folks in their garage working a project. You establish a physical basis of understanding and common terminology for elements and phenomena. Great job. (I wonder if this same approach could be used for our current US/World situations?) ;-)
im building electric skateboards for me and go carts for my daughter. finding this gives me new ideas. go bigger. but finding one of those motors isnt so easy. love the site and how you make it approachable for the hobbyist.
Nice Simple Explanation and details. Free of all that annoying background music and so on. Good angles with the camera. Wish you had a shot of the car running with it at the very end.
RUclips brought me into this with video 6 for whatever reason. I did see them to the end... There's as much video work and post production as there is building the car. It's a great documentary. I would have liked to see it in 5th gear cruising at 40 MPH with the speedometer and the voltage and amperage gauges all side by side. This sure has come a long way in the past decade with these open source regulators that you can work up now. I first saw this conversion concept around 1980 in The Mother Earth News - they sold books on it which are no longer in existence. The dc motor was a surplus aircraft generator and starter back then.
Great info man. I'm thinking about adding electric drive to the two "inactive" wheels on a performance oriented vehicle. I think the most fun but also the most fabricating would be something like adding electric motors to the front wheels of a manual transmission rwd car (example a camaro) to essentially make it AWD, and another great thing would be that the electric motors would act like a dual clutch if you have it wired to a button on the wheel when you let off the gas to shift.
!thank you! mobility is so important to progress and expansion of options for so many. if we could find a way to easily produce super simple cheap and easy to maintain "giant go-karts," if you will, it could change so many lives. sharing knowledge is love. keep spreading knowledge and more "power" to you my friend. =)
2:43 To me, this video is what I was looking for about initiate learning process about electrical motors, Thanks, great video! But the spiders dislike, she don´t want see her home spinning
If you can modify your post you should warn people about hooking the brushes out of the way before removing the rotor. As a point of clarity I suggest you always refer to the parts as rotor and stator that way there can never be any confusion. You should point out that "forward" on this motor as seen at 11:11 will be clockwise. While it will work counterclockwise the brushes will be pressed against the sides of the brush holders making them difficult to move inwards. Another warning is not to run the motor without a load as it can run up unregulated so fast as to damage the rotor windings. They can litterally fly out from the slots with the centrifugal force. A good presentation.
@@BenjaminNelsonX I've worked 30 years as a marine electrician and have taken apart hundreds of motors and alternators..... I've forgotten enough times to remove the bushes before dismantling and bust enough brushes. The rotor-stator nomenclature was impressed on me in tech college 50 years ago.
Yes, there have been many projects where builders have used two motors connected together for more power. One way is by belting two together. Another is to use motors with tail-shafts and connect the tail-shaft of one motor to the drive-shaft of the other. That's typically called a Siamese-Twin. Here's one example of that type of setup. ruclips.net/video/Ie7qvo-aC5k/видео.html
Hi fella I’m from uk. What size batteries or a powerful inverter cauld run this for my hover. Any ideas would help me considerably. Davesaxuk@aol. Com regards Dave.
This is my first video stater for my bike project. I have absolutely no idea what to do. Only that at 74 I plan to make myself a battery powered Trike between 1000w to 3000w! If you know how I can progress from here and where I would get my parts please let me know. I do so wqant to do this while I still can. They took my car away but the law says I can use a battery bike. So here goes. Help me if you can. Im English living in Spain! Cheers that what an inspiring video Ben!!
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
We are now on Patreon! We'd love your support as it helps us produce more videos like this! www.patreon.com/300MPG
Sir teach me
Please check out subscribestar instead of pateron
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@@charliebrownau wheres the cleavage click bait though.. hehe. All the best.
Please swap from PATERON to SUBSCRIBESTAR
If you dont live in USA with 2nd hand fork lift motors in your country or REGION
What else is available ?
I just had to pause the video to express my appreciation for your thorough explanation , I have no questions.
It’s my first day learning about electric motors. You explained this well for me.
Aye bro same I’m 14 right now when I get my drivers license at 16 I’m planning to make an electric car from taking out the engine of a car and putting in an electric motor hopefully everything goes to plan in 2-3 years
You are really advising every one to try any work before prepare for repairing. That's actually should be the aim of every person. Thank you very much for such a detail analysis.
I converted a VW bug with a Raymond motor that had internal series connections like you mention. Indeed, when I first started the car I had 4 reverse speeds and 1 forward. I took the motor to a motor shop and the corrected the wiring for the direction I desired. These motors are powerful, heavy but easy to work with. I don't have the car anymore but it was a great learning "vehicle" for me. Thanks for making this video.
if u don't mind me askin, then afterwards did you do any other related project?
@@HTrntrs I went on and founded the Virginia chapter of the Electric Auto Association which helped a 6 or so individuals convert cars. I wrote a grant to purchase a professionally converted ford Escort car and installed a solar charging station for it. Since then I have moved on to teaching.
One of the simplest and most informative video's Iv'e seen. Thanks for the great video!!
You are a great teacher. No extra information just straight to the point. Other guys on here just like to hear their own voices too much and I find it hard to follow. Thanks for this informal video.
Great teaching skills, no profane expletives, solid information. Thank you and God bless you.
How many people use constant expletives when talking about EV conversions? Also, God is useless 🙃
Dude I love you. This is the page I've been after. You're a wizard..... an electric wizard.
Thanks for sharing. People like you makes this world a better place. Keep up the good work! God bless you!
Ah that great Wisconsin accent, takes me back home. Great video series
Watched this video at least 6 times over the last 3 months and im just starting to understand how it works. Got my first dc motor today. An 11" traction. Excited and thank you, your videos have been super clear and great to follow.
11"!!! Woo! That's a big one! have fun!
Good information. I used one of these motors to power an electric farm utility vehicle and a useful small mod worth doing
while the motor is apart, is to glue a thermocouple sensor to the stator winding. I just used a cheap digital thermometer and
it gives me good warning about motor temp before any risk of winding damage occurs.
Thanks for posting.
Good tip! Always nice to know the temperature of things!
Great innovation "Alasdair". Is it still functional?
It is still going strong, just repacked second set of batteries after 10 years of daily use.
$600 worth of batteries but we're still way in front over regular fuel cost for that same time.
The only noticeable difference now is that its quieter, the commutator and gear train is completely smoothed out.
Cheers
Thank you for these videos!! Man I'm so excited its hard to contain myself..
i been repairing motors for 30+ years you did a fine job explaining well done
Thank you!
The spider in the video started his own Twitter account. See it at: twitter.com/spidermotor
Very good explanation for a person who really hasn't worked with electric motors at all, talking about myself. I feel like you gave enough basic information on how it works to make my way through it.
Many years ago now, (1968) I had the electric drive motor from a milk float, a sort of small truck used for delivering milk here in the UK. The motor was arround 4 times the size of the one you have there. It was a compound motor that converted to a generator by reversing the series winding relative to the shunt. I have no idea of how many apms it could put out but the first time I tried charging a battery it boiled it and then blew it up inside of thirty seconds and it was not a small car battery but a very large tractor battery, I was 15 at the time and the idea was to provide power in a shed at the bottom of the garden to use as a lab.
do you still explore the inevitable horizon of known hazards - when i was young, it was "Gilbert Chemistry" in my 'danger if you stand too close' laboratory..
splash damage can be
very unpredictable
You are a very good teacher. I enjoyed listening to you.
You give very detailed instructions when you are explaining Motors. That is very helpful and useful I really appreciate you for that because I was always wondering where those extra two wires come from out of the motor you should become a college professor. Keep up the perfect work..👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍..... I love it
cant thank you enough for this video! glad i found this channel!
Ditto!
Thanks Ben. You have a real talent for teaching....
Thanks Gary, glad to share!
respect from Pakistan....m trying hard to make an electric car ....on my own...and your video was very helpful
My unit was a 108 VDC system in a 1987 Toyota Corolla Station wagon. Used an S&S 48hp rated DC motor and Curtis controller, the lead acid 6VDC batteries were the really bad part - weight and the fact that they lasted me approx. 3 years! ($4800.00 for the batteries!) Still have the set up - had to replace the front end (it was originally automatic) put in a standard 4 speed, and clutch unit. It was a hoot when it ran, but doing it again I would save up and do an AC unit! And yes, built my own adapter plate for the transmission - and had a friction joint machined to do the join of engine to the transmission. It was a really steep learning curve time for me - on the job training - I had a bit of electronics under my belt but this thing was a whole new world in itself! - Build one you'll see what I mean. One of the best things I ever experimented with!
Ah, the days of the "Lead-Sled'!
Batteries, motors, and controllers have all improved in that time. Building your own electric car is still a great project, although at this point it makes the most sense for a truck, convertible, or classic car. I can not say how much I learned from working on an electric car project. It really was a blast and tons of learning to boot!
perfect instructor
Excellent demonstration. Almost a complete guide to convert an electric car.
This is the good basic info I need to get started.
Wow Benjamin, you are awesome! You have inspired me to go ahead with converting my 1992 Volvo 960 to electric. Old car but low mileage and zero rust. I think it will be relatively easy (ish) to convert due to the larger-than-average engine bay and rear wheel drive! Thank you so much! Your experience and insight is worth gold!
Depending on where you live, an older car can sometimes be licensed as "Classic" or "Hobbyist". These can offer an advantage of being less expensive to register, only have to pay a fee once, (instead of annual) etc. Check with your State or other appropriate government. Older cars are also often exempt from pollution control testing. Although an electric car makes no emissions at point of use, it can be a bunch of hassle and red tape to prove that to a government official!
Here's a little about when I took my project car in for emissions testing. It was an interesting experience, to say the least.
300mpg.org/projects/electro-metro/emissions-testing/
Hey thanks for the reply Benjamin. Yeah, although I don't live in the US. I live in Montreal and I assume laws differ here somewhat but I'll look into it. On another note though, I plan on removing the engine and transmission including the radiator allowing me to couple the DC motor directly to the drive shaft that connects to the differential in the rear end. Then I'm worried about weight... my Volvo is a solid steel beast weighing in at around 3500 lbs. To move that weight around I'll need more batteries... more batteries means more weight and more cost. The engine has an aluminum block (2.9L inline 6) so not as heavy as a cast iron block but certainly some weight can be saved by removing the engine and transmission. This might allow for more batteries. The other thing now is where to place all these batteries... the car's engine bay is enormous especially when the power train is removed but placing all those batteries in the engine bay will make the car very front-heavy and little weight to the rear-end. Use the trunk for battery placement and engine bay as a trunk perhaps? Anyhow, I'm looking into solving all these issues before starting to gut the car. Any suggestions? I very much value your experience.
Keep in mind that if you go straight to the driveshaft, you lose the gearing in the transmission and you only have the gear reduction of the differential. You will also need to add revers ELECTRONICALLY, by physically spinning the motor the other direction. (In my Geo Metro, the motor only spins the one direction, and I used reverse gear for backing up.)
Because of the loss of gearing, vehicles with an electric motor going straight to the drive-shaft usually have used high power motors and higher voltage systems. Take at look at the EV Album (EVAlbum.com) to see some conversions people have done direct to driveshaft.
As for weight and bulk of batteries, yes, more batteries you have the more weight there is. At this point, lithium batteries are a better choice than ever. I'm a big fan of used lithium batteries from salvaged vehicles. Cells from Nissan Leafs and Chevy Volts a readily available, and offer good power in less space and weight than lead acid ever did.
Oh man, what a story! I'm very glad things worked out in the end. Unreal the bureaucracy that infests everything.
Great stuff...
I know many people are afraid of using forklift motors. But I love 'em.
They're cheap, and easy to work with.
I also second your advice on not worrying much about the horsepower rating. That's only a continuous rating, and I've found that most motors are under-rated. Not only that, but the average motor can take over volting to increase the horsepower without any mechanical side effects. Just monitor heat, and everything will be fine.
So, don't anyone be afraid of using forklift motors. They last forever, and do have a lot of power.
Thx, what kind of speed can u get from a forklift motor? Would u be able to acheive 40mph? In an astra for instance.
"Cheap and easy to work with" Just what I need.
Dr fruikenstein any pointers from you would be appreciated. Can a inverter run this motor. And what sort of rpm can I achieve. Regards davesaxuk@aol .com
@@davestevens5159
Most retired forklifts will have a DC motor, as is the motor Ben features in the video. An inverter will only make the motor buzz.
The easiest, best, and most reliable way to run a DC motor is with a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) controller. This controller runs the motor by pulsing a DC current to the motor, usually at battery pack voltage. It's relatively easy to hook up, and usually lasts for a few decades with proper care.
There are other ways to run the motor that have been around since the 1890's. But those ways are more complicated, and not nearly as reliable. However, they still tend to last quite awhile with proper maintenance.
Keep this video handy as Ben also shows how to maintain the motor.
If you plan on driving at highway speeds, you'll also want to run the motor at a higher voltage. Between 72 and 120 volts.
I just found this vid….great information!! Thanks so much for taking the time to share your knowledge!!
Hi Benjamin, this was a superb explanation and very entertaining.
Thanks for your video, you encourage guys like us to do the impossible.
Very good, very clear explanation.. thankyou
Thank you for a clear concise and well laid out video you just got yourself a new subscriber I am very interested in building my own electric car
What a great Idea, I never thought. My neighbour has 2 old fork lifts in his back yard and as far as I can tell their just big paper weights. He wants an old Vovo that I have. Done deal. One other thing I might suggest is when you have the commutator out you take a long thin strip of emery cloth to go right around the commutator and clean it up by going back and forth, and then break a hacksaw blade and under cut between each contact on the commutator. Makes one hell of a difference.
Absolutely! When I went to a forklift shop to get new brushes for this motor, I told them what I was doing and asked for advice. The guy there gave me a "commutator stone" and told me how to clean between the segments of the commutator. When I had the motor over at "Hot-Rod" Jim's place to work on the adapter plate between the motor and transmission, he put the commutator on his lathe and took off just a hair. It looked brand-new! I cleaned between the commutator segments with a pick (or with a hacksaw, like you said) and finally applied a little of the commutator stone when I ran in the brushes. For $100 and a little work, it was literally a brand new motor!
You’re a top notch instructor. Thanks a lot!!!
The Flying Dutchman thank YOU!
superb narration .
Thank you my dear friend
Wow 😯 this easy
Thanks for teaching me
Good video
Good explanation and information useful video ,,
Beautifully done video and explanation. I'm an MS EE and CS. Practical, hands-on presentations like this are invaluable: from newbie genius scientists to folks in their garage working a project. You establish a physical basis of understanding and common terminology for elements and phenomena. Great job. (I wonder if this same approach could be used for our current US/World situations?) ;-)
Thank you!
@BenjaminNelson Man I think you're a talented teacher, even my wife likes your mode of information delivery. Thanks dude!
Thank you! Glad you like my videos!
well explained and easy to understand. Thanks
What a frickin' greatly explained video...I'm subscribed!
Mark Ream lol me too
@@hootbutler LOL! Me too!
Im in!
Me too. He's a natural teacher. Maybe he'll explain brushless motors just as clearly.
Awesome video! Thanks for posting!
Good educational video thanks
im building electric skateboards for me and go carts for my daughter. finding this gives me new ideas. go bigger. but finding one of those motors isnt so easy. love the site and how you make it approachable for the hobbyist.
A heartfelt thank you .
So so awesome! Thank you!
Subbed the first minute in. . . .liked the video--only wish I could give it more likes!
Nice Simple Explanation and details.
Free of all that annoying background music and so on.
Good angles with the camera. Wish you had a shot of the car running with it at the very end.
You can see the car running in some of my other videos, including this one: ruclips.net/video/B41BlafQOYU/видео.html
RUclips brought me into this with video 6 for whatever reason.
I did see them to the end...
There's as much video work and post production as there is building the car.
It's a great documentary. I would have liked to see it in 5th gear cruising at 40 MPH with the speedometer and the voltage and amperage gauges all side by side. This sure has come a long way in the past decade with these open source regulators that you can work up now. I first saw this conversion concept around 1980 in The Mother Earth News - they sold books on it which are no longer in existence. The dc motor was a surplus aircraft generator and starter back then.
You have a talent for educating. That was surprisingly fun for something I know almost noting about!
Beautiful and detailed explanation.
Great video. Thanks for sharing with us.
Thank you! I loved your video
Anyone else catch the spider that ran into the motor just seconds before he put his hands right in the spot where the spider was? 2:40
Its the only thing i remember from seeing this 😆
Gone for a joy ride !
That's how you switch car into reverse, spider drive lol. And no I missed the little bugger
2:40?? More like 3:09!
Came the comment section for this. Thought I was the only one.
Great info man. I'm thinking about adding electric drive to the two "inactive" wheels on a performance oriented vehicle. I think the most fun but also the most fabricating would be something like adding electric motors to the front wheels of a manual transmission rwd car (example a camaro) to essentially make it AWD, and another great thing would be that the electric motors would act like a dual clutch if you have it wired to a button on the wheel when you let off the gas to shift.
If I wanted to make a simple car with a motor and speed controller (accelerator) will I able to do that? with just a motor like that?
Very nice 👌 Description Sir
Very good information and very well made, very clear and simply explained
Great tutorial - thank you
OMG its a Geo metro! 😍 Allready double cool.
I like a strong motor with no brush - brush less more quiet and friction less
Excellent video! Keep them coming!
!thank you! mobility is so important to progress and expansion of options for so many. if we could find a way to easily produce super simple cheap and easy to maintain "giant go-karts," if you will, it could change so many lives. sharing knowledge is love. keep spreading knowledge and more "power" to you my friend. =)
Very interesting, and well explained.
Great information l love it thanks for posting...
thanks you helped me a lot in my project
Great explaination of DC motors
Thanks for this information
This was a great video. So much information and it was appreciated. You just earned a sub!
Very good information! Easy to understand!
Nice video , very thanks for your time, congratulations
Lol the spider crawls into the motor as your reviewing it
Thanks for the details and making things easily defined.
Awesome job bro love it 😍😁
2:43 To me, this video is what I was looking for about initiate learning process about electrical motors, Thanks, great video! But the spiders dislike, she don´t want see her home spinning
very very very good info video.
great video..i learn a lot
Thanks for posting well done video
Great video. Now to find a motor like the one you show
If you can modify your post you should warn people about hooking the brushes out of the way before removing the rotor.
As a point of clarity I suggest you always refer to the parts as rotor and stator that way there can never be any confusion.
You should point out that "forward" on this motor as seen at 11:11 will be clockwise. While it will work counterclockwise the brushes will be pressed against the sides of the brush holders making them difficult to move inwards.
Another warning is not to run the motor without a load as it can run up unregulated so fast as to damage the rotor windings. They can litterally fly out from the slots with the centrifugal force.
A good presentation.
Looks like you just made those warnings.
@@BenjaminNelsonX I've worked 30 years as a marine electrician and have taken apart hundreds of motors and alternators..... I've forgotten enough times to remove the bushes before dismantling and bust enough brushes.
The rotor-stator nomenclature was impressed on me in tech college 50 years ago.
Very informative, thank you
well presented
This sparks so many ideas!!!
Amazing video!!!
If you use two of them in series does it make it more powerful
Yes, there have been many projects where builders have used two motors connected together for more power. One way is by belting two together. Another is to use motors with tail-shafts and connect the tail-shaft of one motor to the drive-shaft of the other. That's typically called a Siamese-Twin. Here's one example of that type of setup. ruclips.net/video/Ie7qvo-aC5k/видео.html
Nice video
Great info, did anyone notice a spider walking from right to left ?
Thankyou for explaining the workings of that motor.
I still find it amazing that the number one comment on a video I shot ten years ago is about the spider.
Fantastic video!!! Thank you very much for this!
Sounds very fun to do. I might do an electric car in a hatchback project. 😁
Hi fella I’m from uk. What size batteries or a powerful inverter cauld run this for my hover. Any ideas would help me considerably. Davesaxuk@aol. Com regards Dave.
Good video
I like that collor. 😉👌🏼
thank you for nice information
Excellent video well done and thorough.
Thank you!!!!! Free energy but they are charging us for it! Wow
There's no such thing as free energy . Cheap reliable bow is all possible
This is my first video stater for my bike project. I have absolutely no idea what to do. Only that at 74 I plan to make myself a battery powered Trike between 1000w to 3000w! If you know how I can progress from here and where I would get my parts please let me know. I do so wqant to do this while I still can. They took my car away but the law says I can use a battery bike. So here goes. Help me if you can. Im English living in Spain! Cheers that what an inspiring video Ben!!
Thank you so much for Teaching!!
Thanks Great Video
Super explanation.
Wow very insparing. Thaks for this video. I think i need one electrik Car soon.
Thank you so much I’m planning to make an electric car from scratch and this helped a lot you explained this so fantastic good job 👍👍👍
I would love two of those install them in a 1979 Toyota Celica