I just bought on line today 2 acrylic plastic 12 inches x 12 inches 4.5 mm & a 1.5 mm to make a housing box for my mini circular saw & other power tools to protect myself from the dust . I watched your video today & other videos to get more knowledge & ideas for my projects...you are the best among them. Thank you or sharing.
Great acrylic tips. Worth mentioning: They sell betta fish in tiny containers, but most people don't realize they actually need much larger containers (like 1 gallon min) to be happy and healthy. An added benefit is that the water stays clean for wayyy longer.
There are many videos on here suggesting to use a jigsaw. I agree with your reasons not to. I used a cordless circular saw in the end and it gave me perfect results. I am like a surgeon with it tho, others with less experience with this type of saw may encounter problems if they twist the blade during cuts or put the depth way down or don't use a sacrificial cutting surface under the acrylic. When I did my project I didn't have access to my table saw, I think it may have been even easier. I do have a fence for my circular saw tho. And I used super glue which worked perfectly for me. But I like how you explained the difference in adhesives. Thank you for sharing your skills knowledge and experience. I appreciate you
I'm an Acrylic Fabricator...and your instincts and experiments with the table saw are correct. It's the best way to go for cross cuts or any square cut really. I use a 3hp table saw every day to cut through even up to 1" acrylic. I've met a lot of guys that have said thicker material kicks back, but in the couple years I've been at it, I've never had a kick back issue. I do use a blade made for plastic however, so don't take my word on it if using your wood blade on anything thicker than 1/8th". Most tools and applications you use for wood will work for acrylic.....the biggest difference is there's no sanding away mistakes. You can sand and buff it clear, but it will be altered optically. LAST NOTE: If you're going to make something large that needs to hold weight(water or whatever)....prepare your edges! The solvent will dissolve saw marks on something small but you can't count on it making a truly strong weld without at least planing/jointing those edges. I only even bring this up because I've made aquariums for people who tried doing it at home and the seams busted on them.
Any particular recommendations on the plane(s)??? OR... would it be easier to suggest (strongly advise?) what NOT to use, specifically? SO far... My only project was some "viewees" for a "bordering on ancient" level, so I globbed some automotive "Goop" around the quarter-inch lexan rounds I'd tooled out with a Dremel and a "roto-zip" cutter (lolz)... and went with it. My preference (on that project) for "Goop" was the nature of the adhesive to hold indefinitely, but "let go" when I actually want to remove (for...say... bubble replacement). ...it's worth mention that I'm "hell on equipment". BUT I still have some "stock" sitting around, and anything "advice wise" is probably a good idea. ;o)
Excuse me what will i need to make an edge on a acrylic mirrored panel piece. Im trying to cover my daughters dresser with 1/4 inch mirrored acrylic. Thanks
@@LVL1Yo-YoGuy It might help (more?) if you specified what kind of "edge" you're trying to make. Right now (on experiment alone) my usual "go-to" tool for shaping acrylic is either a "Roto-zip" or a "Dremel" with a similar "rotary saw bit"... The obvious (hobbyist) favorite here is the Dremel (or similar rotary hand-tool kit) because accessories offer huge variety at relatively low costs. IF you can find one "reasonable", though, for a "bevel" type of edge, you might be well advised to get a "jig-saw" or "sabre-saw" (depending on local terms), so you can adjust the bottom for the angle. I would HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend that whatever tool(s) you do go after for acrylic purposes, you specifically look for VARIABLE SPEED CONTROL... It's a bit more in price, but to avoid mountains of molten goop developing on your projects (even rare accidents), in my opinion, it's definitely worth the investment. It still takes a bit of "tinkering" to get a feel for working the stuff, so you're also well advised to start with a couple "sample cuts" in scraps that you don't mind throwing away... especially with cutting angles, because following the lines for precision gets a bit tricky... AND as far as that "precision" regard goes, any relatively thin material (about the same 1/4 inch) will do for practice, just so you can practice following the line while the blade cuts outward to the edge. BUT if you're interested entirely in a neat, square, crisp 90 degree cut, I stand by the Dremel with a rotary saw bit, and the "end piece" that looks like a miniature router-base... Again, VARIABLE SPEED is a big advantage to avoid melting the acrylic any more than absolutely necessary... BUT I've run my roto-zip (which is either on or off) through it without much "clean up"... mostly just scraping and trim with an Exact-O or Pocket knife. Hope this helps... ;o)
@@gnarthdarkanen7464 so a( rotary saw bit) for the roto-zip is what i need for cutting acrylic material. I like to do a simple angle edge on the panels i cut for front drawers pieces. Thank you for the help
@@LVL1Yo-YoGuy, ALWAYS welcome. The roto-zip (or dremel 'ish' tools) are great for any direction, as long as you want clean square edges... For angles, I'd still recommend a "jig-saw", and most of the relatively fine blades (packages will usually recommend materials... so wood or paneling) will also do a good job... Best of luck! ;o)
I have been a wooden boat repairer for many years and have always asked the local acrylic supplier to cut stock to size if I need it - this is expensive, takes time and totally dependent on the measurements I give them. Your video will save me time and money. It will also allow me to be more creative with my repairs. Thanks for a great video. Good luck.
The capillary bottle trick is GENIUS. I’m talking about squeezing out some air before pointing it at the seam you’re welding. I’ve been a model maker for a LONG time, and have always dreaded the “drip” when assembling plex. Somehow I had never heard this one; it’s great. PS: same bottles can be used with cynoacrylate glue accelerant. Allows you to use just a drop of kicker on your superglue, rather than having to spray that damn stuff into the air!
Absolutely the most informative video of my search for cutting, glueing and assembling acrylic (plexiglass). Thank you so much! You have a real gift for doing these videos, speed ,timing, and focus make it a pleasure to learn!
I've managed to get a decent result on 10mm thick acrylic and a jigsaw. The trick is to use a metal cutting blade, go slowly, have the jigsaw on its lowest speed setting and use vaseline. I just put it along the cut line and got a result that matched the factory edges.
My mom and I made a ton of plexiglass knick-knacks in the early ‘70s using this gluing technique. We would also bend it by holding it over a heat strip, which allowed us to form all kinds of shapes.
I am retired and do crafts as a hobby to sell at craft events. I really appreciate this video. I have cut acrylic only a couple of times and I think that I used both my band-saw and my table saw...the table saw for a lot more accurate cut. But...and this is where I learned something very valuable here...the gluing process. I didn't know about that solvent. It looks so much easier and simpler than the epoxy or super-glue method. Spring is just around the corner so I think I will now add some items that has acrylic in them. Thanks...!!
I'm addicted to your videos. Thank you for putting out such clean and concise content. It's funny, I have no need for many of these tools as of yet, yet I cant stop watching and learning. So again, thank you. You are very inspiring. R
Brilliant Presentation - this video is well thought out and very informative. The presentation techniques you use can be applied to any presentation for the best results. By focussing on the two main issues when working with acrylic - heat, and vibration - you brilliantly illustrated throughout the presentation how to use tools and techniques to prevent those issues from occurring. Then you demonstrated how to create simple products using those tools and using the best adhesives to perfect them. I am not a carpenter but I do admire the trade. I hope you are a teacher sir cause you have a great talent for explaining how to do things very simply. Well done!
One of the things i have discovered in using acrylic for several projects recently is how well my hand tools work in shaping and shaving . Both my spoke shaves and planes have aided in fitting parts together and edge cleaning Even my card scrapers have been very useful in different Acrylic projects lately
We used to use a home made heater to heat a line on the plastic and bend the sheet. Worked great. Nichrome wire and a variac transformer. It's using AC line so you need to be careful. Good video.
I'm glad you liked it! I love working with acrylic, especially since so few people do it. It's a skill I use to get paid when other people can't take the work.
Thank you Rex. That was really helpful. I often make acrylic dust cover boxes but I will frame my pieces in wood. Mainly because I'm not totally happy with my edges. I also cut mine on a table saw so it's nice to know I'm doing it right. And like you I don't get kick backs. But I didn't know that my slightly rough edges could melt away once I weld it together. I am definitely going to try that on my next dust cover. Thanks again.
Thin acrylic sheet material will work nicely on a table saw if you use a simple fence attachment my brother taught me about years ago for doing laminate work. Cut a shallow kerf an eighth of an inch along one edge of a board which you attach to the side of your rip fence. This may seem folly to joiners use to providing zero clearance inserts which support the work to preclude tear out...but allowing the sheet to 'float' actually keeps the chips from happening. Especially useful when making the pieces for the edging on counter or tabletops. Love your vids, keep up the great work. The Colonel
For anyone catching this now - in areas where restrictions regarding ***that*** are being slacked off, places like Homedepots are scrambling to offload a lot of sneeze shields, counter guards etc. Some of it's polycarbonate, which can be a bit different from acrylic (though I feel it can be more forgiving)
This is an awesome video. I’ve worked with acrylic before and have never been happy with the final product. But it was for myself and in the end it never really mattered to me how it looked. I have also seen people using the solvent you use but have never had it demonstrated how to use it so successfully. Thank you so much for making this video. The next time I think of a new project and consider acrylic I will be referring back to your video.
Excellent video, Rex! My lack of knowledge with regard to acrylic (and the awful results I got when I tried it years ago) has caused me to avoid it for a long time now. Not anymore - thanks to this super informative and helpful video!
I use the 4mm thick, anti-glare, UV protection Perspex for my A2 photograph frames, but I often cut it down to custom sizes using my jigsaw with a Bosch T101A blade. They are not cheap at £12 for 5, but I’ve never had a problem with them. I also use my Bosch version of the workmate as I can clamp really close to the cut from both sides to reduce the vibration in the material.
Rex, this is awesome because I have always been the type to make sure I have all the right tools to do a project which as you know can add up for something you may only use a few times. So you just saved me a lot of cash, lol. One simple can of solvent that comes with an applicator, what's better than that!!
I have been working with acrylic for 30 years as a teacher and you are spot on. You can use a jigsaw (now we hit American vs UK English problems, what you call a jigsaw, the Black and Decker thing is not a jigsaw. A Jigsaw is the saw you would use to cut jigsaw puzzle pieces. Sometimes it's called a scroll saw, fret saw or a piercing saw.) So long as you stick paper on the top face of the plastic, it does something magical, the melting stops and you can cut really complicated shapes even using a powered machine. It also planes, if you use a high angle scraper plane. It also turns if you want circles, use a metal lathe and no rake on the cutter. Drilling: back off the sharp edge of the drill to vertical, as you would for brass. Forstner bits work surprisingly well, use a fast speed. Fly cutters work well too. Use fast speeds and low feed. You can use standard metal working tools for cutting threads.
Thank you so much Sir! I am in the planning stages of a project and one of the things I need is a way to cut and join some acrylic pieces. Your method should be perfect for what I am doing! I finally got a bandsaw and a table saw installed in my shop and I plan on trying both of your methods to see which one works best for me. Thank you again Sir for sharing your time and knowledge!!!
Regarding 11:05, instead of using ragged saw cut edges on acrylic sheets, you can instead get much better results by using a table router to further shave off an additional 1/32 inch from a ragged saw cut edge on an acrylic sheet. Thereafter chemically solvent welding a joint on the acrylic sheet will produced a truly transparent and strong with no imperfections such as from a ragged saw cut edge.
This was an eye-opener for me. Thank you for this video! I've been wanted to make a box with a sliding see-through lid for a while now but didn't want to make it out of glass for fear of it breaking during transport of the box. I'll be able to make my box idea because of this video. Well done Sir.
I need a plastic or something that can withstand temperatures of 750 degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius whichever is the hot American one. Would acrylic melt or warp under those temperatures?
Great video I do some work with acrylic just like to add some tips rough edges can smoothed by heating the edge with a butane blow torch quickly moving the flame across the edge.. Acetone can be used to weld pieces together. Acrylic benders can be cheaply made with resistance wire attached to a power source and a small spring to keep the wire taut when it expands with the heat
Rex, you make enjoyable and informative videos. Your presentation is always clear and understandable. Thank you for your good work. I am am a subscriber and regular viewer. I have some familiarity with working acrylic. I think this video missed only one talking point that, in my opinion, should always be part of an introductory presentation on using a new material. That is safety. As woodworkers, we have become much more educated about safety and collaborative about promoting it. Please let us not forget discussing safety as we explore other craft media.
Dude...that was a terrific video/tutorial!! I have a vintage turntable with a missing top....now I am pretty confident I can make a replacement!! Thanks!!
I get tons of plastic sheet goods from t.v.'s and monitors kicked to the curb, it ranges anywhere from 1/8" to 3/8" thick, and is good for utility projects around the shop. Trash pickin'- or as I like to call it- "asset recovery sweeps"- are a good way to build up a wide variety of inventory and truly help reduce landfill while saving serious money. ☺
I am stunned. Good show on acrylic, but how could you make an entire video without a demonstration of a plane or chisel? For the hand-powered tool fanatic, the same acrylic can be engraved with hand gavers, and raw edges can be polished quite well. I have used it for intaglio printing, as well as relief. For the advanced project, one can engrave the material, then polish the cut surface to yield very nice figures and textures. Anyway, thanks Rex (from another Rex).
This is a very helpful video. I agree with John A. Mangum's previous reply though. SAFETY FIRST. Safety glasses should be worn for sure. Did you see how that acrylic strip shot off when he snapped it? It even surprised Rex! Also, can you imagen getting some of that solvent in your eyes? Don't wait for the close call or worse!
I just started incorporating some acrylic pieces into my projects. Your video was very informative. Thorough, clear, and good production value. Thank you very much for this. I'll check out your other videos.
Nice video coverind the basics. I'd like to see a section on drilling holes. Two safty suggestions: 1. Keep the table saw blade only about 1/8" higher or less thanthe peice you are cutting. I'd rather take a 1/8" chunk off my fingers than a 1" chunk. 2. I would use the miter gauge with the fence when using a table saw. Maybe no one has experienced kickback cutting acrylic, but why take a chance? I use a compound sliding miter saw for these cuts so no worries about fences or miters gauges.
Great video and some great info. I’ve done a little bit of work with acrylic but have just used ca as I didn’t realize that there was an specific type of glue for that. Will definitely have to pick some up next time I have a project using acrylic.
The best circular saw blade for cutting acrylic (or any plastic or sheet metal or aluminum extrusions) is one with zero to negative rake teeth. They don't pull a vibrating piece of stock into the tooth gullet and you don't get nearly as much chipping of the surface. The teeth don't dig in like a chisel or a plane iron, but drag across the work like a scraper. A similar technique works really good with drilling. You have to modify the drill bit though. You use a dremel tool with one of those brown cut-off wheels (I call them potato chip disks cause they break like potato chips between your fingers). With the disk in the same plane as the centerline of the drill bit, dull the cutting points of the drill bit so the point of the drill doesn't lift the chips into the drill bit flutes. This works great on sheet metal too -- the drill bit wont screw itself through before making a round hole. It also works really well with Lexan (polycarbonate) . Have you ever tried drilling that stuff?
Nice vid. To midigate heat build up with things like Jig Saws you can spray a little water on the cut path. Similar to using lubricant while cutting/machining metal.
Dear Rex and viewers, 50 years ago I used to make my own acrylic cement for museum pathology mounts. We dissolvedacrylic shavings and chips from squaring with a plane, in chloroform. This cement behaves not just as solvent, but also as a filler. Mike R retired med scientist.
Subscribed most definitely. YOu can be the best at anything and that same person can be very difficult to learn from. This guy is wicked at what he does and that includes teachng. New fav after that nerdy guy with the good heart, Steve Ramsey from Mere Mortals. Cheers mate. even tho im from Manitoba Canada lol.
With a delicate touch, you can use the heat of a propane torch to smooth the rough edges of a cut. However, do this only on exposed edges that will not be bonded. The solvent will craze a heat-smoothed edge.
It's so funny. When you started demonstrating the acrylic adhesive I thought "I wonder if that could make a water-tight seal". And sure enough, you brought out the water. The reason I was wondering was because I attempted to make an acrylic container for ... wait for it ... a Betta! And BINGO, you dropped in a Betta! Oh how serendipitous! 😃 ( i realize this was probably interesting only to me )
Hi Jon, please, make sure you're building a vessel that will hold at least 5 gallons of water for that Betta. Yes, they can live in a small cube, but they thrive in a larger environment with plants and other items to enrich their lives.
Great video I've worked with a lot of a arylic through years of aircraft. Another way to cut acrylic is similar to cutting glass. Score the sheet deeply with a knife or better yet awkl or scribe. Clamp to your benchtop with a straight board right along the line and bend down. The acrylic will snap along the line.
I've made a lot of display cases for all kinds of stuff. I buy my acrylic at the hardware store and they have an acrylic cutter. I just give them the dimensions and they'll cut it like it came from the factory that way.
You also need to cover edge finishing. I have scraped and sanded edges and ended up with a satin finished edge. However, my favorite way was to take a torch and "flame finish" the edge. Just run the flame quickly over the edge a few times and you will end up with a nice, smooth and shiny edge. Practice on some scrap pieces first and you will be pleasantly surprised how quick and easy it is to do.
Rex: thank you for this video. It was timely in my current project. I always butcher acrylic and Plexiglas - your is helping. It's funny, I've watched woodworking channels hard for about 4 years now, and today is the first time your popped up. I'm glad, and after having watched 2 of your others - "subscribe". I'm gonna grab a beer and watch some more this evening. I was hoping you would show how to clean up acrylic edges. My edges with 1/8" acrylic will be exposed. I've tried sanding, propane (don't need MAPP for anything else but this, so I didn't buy), scraping, etc - all to no avail. I still had a sloppy or melted edge. Can you blast out an edge treatment video for this? I like your channel, your style, your articulateness, your brevity. Perfect. Again - "subscribe"!!!!! Thanks again.
I'm really glad you liked the video. I've had pretty good luck cleaning up edges with fine sandpaper on a block to keep edges from getting rounded. I hear the torch trick works great, but I haven't tried it myself.
We used to make our own solvent cement, just disolve small bits of acrylic into chloroform. Takes a while and should be done in a fume cabinet, make it as thin or thick as you like.
Great and informative video I learned a lot from! I have used a high speed contour saw (don't have a belt saw) with very thin blade for those few projects I add some acryllic pieces, and that is not always the best outcome regarding the melting you mention. I really needs a certain speed in the movement of the acryllic, but if I then stop for a second to check the path I've lined up, it actually melt the acryllic together again.. So, what I do normally, until I saw this video, is to saw an millimeter outside the path, and then fix melts and other things with a fine sandpaper. It works, but not effective and not always the best results either. Ok, again, great video, and thanks for sharing!
You know, it sounds like you're a great problem-solver. Many people would have let the melting stop them, but you found a way and got it done. Impressive!
Great video since you have that talent of speech you could probably complement this tutorial with the home made acrylic bender I'm sure it would be well explained and joyful to make best regards.
That's a really good idea. I don't have an acrylic bender, but just today I was flame-polishing some acrylic edges. I could do a follow-up video. Thanks for the suggestion!
What would you use to split a larger block of acrylic? Have a 5"x1.5"x3/8" block of polypearl acrylic that I need to split lengthwise into two slabs (ending with 5x1.5x3/16 blocks). Using this for knife handle making
Rex, thank you for another very informative video experience. I learn many useful things from your videos and appreciate the time and effort that must go in to making them.
Do you have much (or any) experience bending acrylic by applying heat? This is one of the best (if not the best) explanations/demonstrations regarding acrylic I've seen on RUclips. Subscribed!
KSFWG I've done a bit of heat bending, but only to experiment. there is good bending info online and it doesn't take much heat. thanks for the sub! new content soon.
@@shelby50411 - you can cut large acrylic sheets using the scoring method. Use a scoring tool, much like a single saw tooth, usually made of 8-10 mm diameter tool steel and set in a file handle. The cutting process is much similar to cutting glass, if you have seen one. Make a few deep scores along the cut line and then simply break away at the cut line. Perhaps this video would help see how it's done. ruclips.net/video/pzUiBsPDq4I/видео.html
Hey, thanks so much for the funny and very informative video. I was going to use a jig saw. Not now. You saved me a lot of frustration. Thanks so much. Dave.
What about gluing the acrylic to wood. Did you have a joint like that in the restaurant piece you showed at the beginning of the video? I'm interested in knowing if it can be glued to wood. Thanks!
what kind of adhesive would you use to glue the acrylic to wood? Say, putting edge of acrylic into a 1/8 or 1/4 dado (depending on acrylic thickness) or something along that line.
Interesting question. I think the best approach would be epoxy. It bonds well to both substances. Or, if you need a flexible joint, silicone caulk would probably work, but you should experiment. Good luck!
They make blades for jigsaws and hacksaws especially for acrylics, but I have to say the jigsaw one isn't the best! It can clog up with melted plastic very fast. The hacksaw blade however does a good job. I liked your wood block idea!
It's not my idea; I just read about it. Still, I'm really glad you liked the video and I'll remember that tip about the hack-saw blades. I think I even have a few. Good tip!
I wat to make double wall acrylic similar to double wall POLYCARBONATE sheets. Do you think the double wall acrylic with have a better insulation property's that the double wall polycarbonate ? I'm attempting to make a glass studio/office.
The transparent way you explained the processes, really made the subject clear.
I'll see myself out.
I'll see-through myself out
@@corncobjohnsonreal touche good sir.
I love you
Richard - Go. Go now.
This go straight to the point, no fancy edit, it’s clever and very informative. Thanks bro
I just bought on line today 2 acrylic plastic 12 inches x 12 inches 4.5 mm & a 1.5 mm to make a housing box for my mini circular saw & other power tools to protect myself from the dust . I watched your video today & other videos to get more knowledge & ideas for my projects...you are the best among them. Thank you or sharing.
Great acrylic tips. Worth mentioning: They sell betta fish in tiny containers, but most people don't realize they actually need much larger containers (like 1 gallon min) to be happy and healthy. An added benefit is that the water stays clean for wayyy longer.
Oh, we kept him in a nice big tank. I was just having a bit of fun.
@@RexKrueger Nice!
There are many videos on here suggesting to use a jigsaw. I agree with your reasons not to. I used a cordless circular saw in the end and it gave me perfect results. I am like a surgeon with it tho, others with less experience with this type of saw may encounter problems if they twist the blade during cuts or put the depth way down or don't use a sacrificial cutting surface under the acrylic. When I did my project I didn't have access to my table saw, I think it may have been even easier. I do have a fence for my circular saw tho. And I used super glue which worked perfectly for me. But I like how you explained the difference in adhesives.
Thank you for sharing your skills knowledge and experience. I appreciate you
I'm an Acrylic Fabricator...and your instincts and experiments with the table saw are correct. It's the best way to go for cross cuts or any square cut really. I use a 3hp table saw every day to cut through even up to 1" acrylic. I've met a lot of guys that have said thicker material kicks back, but in the couple years I've been at it, I've never had a kick back issue. I do use a blade made for plastic however, so don't take my word on it if using your wood blade on anything thicker than 1/8th".
Most tools and applications you use for wood will work for acrylic.....the biggest difference is there's no sanding away mistakes. You can sand and buff it clear, but it will be altered optically.
LAST NOTE: If you're going to make something large that needs to hold weight(water or whatever)....prepare your edges! The solvent will dissolve saw marks on something small but you can't count on it making a truly strong weld without at least planing/jointing those edges. I only even bring this up because I've made aquariums for people who tried doing it at home and the seams busted on them.
Any particular recommendations on the plane(s)???
OR... would it be easier to suggest (strongly advise?) what NOT to use, specifically?
SO far... My only project was some "viewees" for a "bordering on ancient" level, so I globbed some automotive "Goop" around the quarter-inch lexan rounds I'd tooled out with a Dremel and a "roto-zip" cutter (lolz)... and went with it. My preference (on that project) for "Goop" was the nature of the adhesive to hold indefinitely, but "let go" when I actually want to remove (for...say... bubble replacement). ...it's worth mention that I'm "hell on equipment".
BUT I still have some "stock" sitting around, and anything "advice wise" is probably a good idea. ;o)
Excuse me what will i need to make an edge on a acrylic mirrored panel piece. Im trying to cover my daughters dresser with 1/4 inch mirrored acrylic. Thanks
@@LVL1Yo-YoGuy It might help (more?) if you specified what kind of "edge" you're trying to make.
Right now (on experiment alone) my usual "go-to" tool for shaping acrylic is either a "Roto-zip" or a "Dremel" with a similar "rotary saw bit"...
The obvious (hobbyist) favorite here is the Dremel (or similar rotary hand-tool kit) because accessories offer huge variety at relatively low costs.
IF you can find one "reasonable", though, for a "bevel" type of edge, you might be well advised to get a "jig-saw" or "sabre-saw" (depending on local terms), so you can adjust the bottom for the angle.
I would HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend that whatever tool(s) you do go after for acrylic purposes, you specifically look for VARIABLE SPEED CONTROL... It's a bit more in price, but to avoid mountains of molten goop developing on your projects (even rare accidents), in my opinion, it's definitely worth the investment.
It still takes a bit of "tinkering" to get a feel for working the stuff, so you're also well advised to start with a couple "sample cuts" in scraps that you don't mind throwing away... especially with cutting angles, because following the lines for precision gets a bit tricky...
AND as far as that "precision" regard goes, any relatively thin material (about the same 1/4 inch) will do for practice, just so you can practice following the line while the blade cuts outward to the edge.
BUT if you're interested entirely in a neat, square, crisp 90 degree cut, I stand by the Dremel with a rotary saw bit, and the "end piece" that looks like a miniature router-base...
Again, VARIABLE SPEED is a big advantage to avoid melting the acrylic any more than absolutely necessary... BUT I've run my roto-zip (which is either on or off) through it without much "clean up"... mostly just scraping and trim with an Exact-O or Pocket knife.
Hope this helps... ;o)
@@gnarthdarkanen7464 so a( rotary saw bit) for the roto-zip is what i need for cutting acrylic material. I like to do a simple angle edge on the panels i cut for front drawers pieces. Thank you for the help
@@LVL1Yo-YoGuy, ALWAYS welcome.
The roto-zip (or dremel 'ish' tools) are great for any direction, as long as you want clean square edges...
For angles, I'd still recommend a "jig-saw", and most of the relatively fine blades (packages will usually recommend materials... so wood or paneling) will also do a good job...
Best of luck! ;o)
I have been a wooden boat repairer for many years and have always asked the local acrylic supplier to cut stock to size if I need it - this is expensive, takes time and totally dependent on the measurements I give them. Your video will save me time and money. It will also allow me to be more creative with my repairs. Thanks for a great video. Good luck.
You're SO welcome. Good luck to you!
Boy!! You have come a looooong way with your video quality. Keep up the good work
5/31/2020 USA Grandpa Bill Thank you!. You are very clear, concise, precise. You made it enjoyable to listen and to learn.
The capillary bottle trick is GENIUS. I’m talking about squeezing out some air before pointing it at the seam you’re welding. I’ve been a model maker for a LONG time, and have always dreaded the “drip” when assembling plex. Somehow I had never heard this one; it’s great. PS: same bottles can be used with cynoacrylate glue accelerant. Allows you to use just a drop of kicker on your superglue, rather than having to spray that damn stuff into the air!
Now that's a good tip. I use a LOT of CA glue.
@@RexKrueger Glad to pass it on. Your videos are great, btw.
Absolutely the most informative video of my search for cutting, glueing and assembling acrylic (plexiglass). Thank you so much!
You have a real gift for doing these videos, speed ,timing, and focus make it a pleasure to learn!
Best video on this topic I have found. And it left me with no need to look further, thank you!
I've managed to get a decent result on 10mm thick acrylic and a jigsaw. The trick is to use a metal cutting blade, go slowly, have the jigsaw on its lowest speed setting and use vaseline. I just put it along the cut line and got a result that matched the factory edges.
My mom and I made a ton of plexiglass knick-knacks in the early ‘70s using this gluing technique. We would also bend it by holding it over a heat strip, which allowed us to form all kinds of shapes.
I am retired and do crafts as a hobby to sell at craft events. I really appreciate this video. I have cut acrylic only a couple of times and I think that I used both my band-saw and my table saw...the table saw for a lot more accurate cut. But...and this is where I learned something very valuable here...the gluing process. I didn't know about that solvent. It looks so much easier and simpler than the epoxy or super-glue method. Spring is just around the corner so I think I will now add some items that has acrylic in them. Thanks...!!
I'm addicted to your videos. Thank you for putting out such clean and concise content. It's funny, I have no need for many of these tools as of yet, yet I cant stop watching and learning. So again, thank you. You are very inspiring.
R
Brilliant Presentation - this video is well thought out and very informative. The presentation techniques you use can be applied to any presentation for the best results. By focussing on the two main issues when working with acrylic - heat, and vibration - you brilliantly illustrated throughout the presentation how to use tools and techniques to prevent those issues from occurring. Then you demonstrated how to create simple products using those tools and using the best adhesives to perfect them. I am not a carpenter but I do admire the trade. I hope you are a teacher sir cause you have a great talent for explaining how to do things very simply. Well done!
One of the things i have discovered in using acrylic for several projects recently is how well my hand tools work in shaping and shaving .
Both my spoke shaves and planes have aided in fitting parts together and edge cleaning
Even my card scrapers have been very useful in different Acrylic projects lately
Uncanny. This was exactly the video I was looking for today, including the aquarium bit!
This must the only video about welding acrylic where author actually says you are OK with edges not being perfectly smooth... TYSM 4 dis.
Great lessons in Acrylic, cutting, gluing and finishing in only 12 minutes video.. Thank you very much
Thank you Rex! Very useful for us - the beginners.....
We used to use a home made heater to heat a line on the plastic and bend the sheet. Worked great. Nichrome wire and a variac transformer. It's using AC line so you need to be careful. Good video.
I thank you humbly for your good advise in gluing acrylic. So much to learn in all areas....
Thank you!
I love incorporating acrylic. Still learned something new. Omg!! Super cool fish tank!!!😁
I'm glad you liked it! I love working with acrylic, especially since so few people do it. It's a skill I use to get paid when other people can't take the work.
Thank you Rex. That was really helpful. I often make acrylic dust cover boxes but I will frame my pieces in wood. Mainly because I'm not totally happy with my edges. I also cut mine on a table saw so it's nice to know I'm doing it right. And like you I don't get kick backs. But I didn't know that my slightly rough edges could melt away once I weld it together. I am definitely going to try that on my next dust cover. Thanks again.
Awesome! Good luck!
Thin acrylic sheet material will work nicely on a table saw if you use a simple fence attachment my brother taught me about years ago for doing laminate work. Cut a shallow kerf an eighth of an inch along one edge of a board which you attach to the side of your rip fence. This may seem folly to joiners use to providing zero clearance inserts which support the work to preclude tear out...but allowing the sheet to 'float' actually keeps the chips from happening. Especially useful when making the pieces for the edging on counter or tabletops.
Love your vids, keep up the great work.
The Colonel
For anyone catching this now - in areas where restrictions regarding ***that*** are being slacked off, places like Homedepots are scrambling to offload a lot of sneeze shields, counter guards etc.
Some of it's polycarbonate, which can be a bit different from acrylic (though I feel it can be more forgiving)
This is an awesome video. I’ve worked with acrylic before and have never been happy with the final product. But it was for myself and in the end it never really mattered to me how it looked. I have also seen people using the solvent you use but have never had it demonstrated how to use it so successfully. Thank you so much for making this video. The next time I think of a new project and consider acrylic I will be referring back to your video.
Excellent video, Rex! My lack of knowledge with regard to acrylic (and the awful results I got when I tried it years ago) has caused me to avoid it for a long time now. Not anymore - thanks to this super informative and helpful video!
I use the 4mm thick, anti-glare, UV protection Perspex for my A2 photograph frames, but I often cut it down to custom sizes using my jigsaw with a Bosch T101A blade. They are not cheap at £12 for 5, but I’ve never had a problem with them. I also use my Bosch version of the workmate as I can clamp really close to the cut from both sides to reduce the vibration in the material.
Clear as day. You got yourself another subscriber!
That's a great little video. Got a project coming up where I'm going to be working with acrylics for the first time.
Rex, this is awesome because I have always been the type to make sure I have all the right tools to do a project which as you know can add up for something you may only use a few times. So you just saved me a lot of cash, lol. One simple can of solvent that comes with an applicator, what's better than that!!
It really is just insanely easy. I couldn't believe it the first time I tried it.
I have been working with acrylic for 30 years as a teacher and you are spot on. You can use a jigsaw (now we hit American vs UK English problems, what you call a jigsaw, the Black and Decker thing is not a jigsaw. A Jigsaw is the saw you would use to cut jigsaw puzzle pieces. Sometimes it's called a scroll saw, fret saw or a piercing saw.) So long as you stick paper on the top face of the plastic, it does something magical, the melting stops and you can cut really complicated shapes even using a powered machine.
It also planes, if you use a high angle scraper plane. It also turns if you want circles, use a metal lathe and no rake on the cutter. Drilling: back off the sharp edge of the drill to vertical, as you would for brass. Forstner bits work surprisingly well, use a fast speed. Fly cutters work well too. Use fast speeds and low feed.
You can use standard metal working tools for cutting threads.
These are all great tips! I've been meaning to do a second part to this video and I'll incorporate those tips for sure!
Thank you so much Sir! I am in the planning stages of a project and one of the things I need is a way to cut and join some acrylic pieces. Your method should be perfect for what I am doing! I finally got a bandsaw and a table saw installed in my shop and I plan on trying both of your methods to see which one works best for me. Thank you again Sir for sharing your time and knowledge!!!
My pleasure!
Nice and concise presentation.
I've now seen a few of your vids more by chance than design. I like your style and humour with good explanations. I'm now onboard ..lol thks
Regarding 11:05, instead of using ragged saw cut edges on acrylic sheets, you can instead get much better results by using a table router to further shave off an additional 1/32 inch from a ragged saw cut edge on an acrylic sheet. Thereafter chemically solvent welding a joint on the acrylic sheet will produced a truly transparent and strong with no imperfections such as from a ragged saw cut edge.
Learned a lot , you do a great video production and your humor made it all fun to watch ! Thank You !
I'm really glad you liked it! I may to another on this topic soon.
probably the most original clip I've seen. Thanks for the clip Rex.
gareths100 I'm really glad you liked it! Hard to make original content with so many people on RUclips.
This was an eye-opener for me. Thank you for this video! I've been wanted to make a box with a sliding see-through lid for a while now but didn't want to make it out of glass for fear of it breaking during transport of the box. I'll be able to make my box idea because of this video. Well done Sir.
Thanks! I think when you get started with acrylic, you'll see a lot of uses for it. I've made several things from it, and gotten paid pretty well.
Iv been watching these videos for a long time man- keep up the good work
the best video on acrylic cutting
Great video.. super clear and very good to follow. Thank you from New Zealand
I need a plastic or something that can withstand temperatures of 750 degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius whichever is the hot American one. Would acrylic melt or warp under those temperatures?
No! Acrylic will not withstand this temperature. Can you maybe use plain old glass?
@@RexKrueger I need to engrave little things into the material
You can etch glass.
Great video I do some work with acrylic just like to add some tips rough edges can smoothed by heating the edge with a butane blow torch quickly moving the flame across the edge.. Acetone can be used to weld pieces together. Acrylic benders can be cheaply made with resistance wire attached to a power source and a small spring to keep the wire taut when it expands with the heat
Those are all really good tips! I think it's time to do a part 2 where I get into some of this more advanced stuff. Thanks!
Fish Boss, I agree with KSFWG: The best explanation of working acrylic! Thanks
I think I'm changing my hip hop name to Fish Boss. MC Fish Boss? I don't know. I'll have to work on it.
Rex, you make enjoyable and informative videos. Your presentation is always clear and understandable. Thank you for your good work. I am am a subscriber and regular viewer.
I have some familiarity with working acrylic. I think this video missed only one talking point that, in my opinion, should always be part of an introductory presentation on using a new material. That is safety. As woodworkers, we have become much more educated about safety and collaborative about promoting it. Please let us not forget discussing safety as we explore other craft media.
Dude...that was a terrific video/tutorial!! I have a vintage turntable with a missing top....now I am pretty confident I can make a replacement!! Thanks!!
Perfect ideas...Simple but highly skilled you are. Thanks for sharing & I can follow your technique. I highly appreciated this so much
I get tons of plastic sheet goods from t.v.'s and monitors kicked to the curb, it ranges anywhere from 1/8" to 3/8" thick, and is good for utility projects around the shop. Trash pickin'- or as I like to call it- "asset recovery sweeps"- are a good way to build up a wide variety of inventory and truly help reduce landfill while saving serious money. ☺
Man, you're speaking my language.! I dive right into dumpsters!
Great video. A LOT of good info without dragging on and on like a lot of others. Keep up the good work!!
Cool video, it explains why I have made so many poor cuts on acrylic pieces. 🇬🇧
I am stunned. Good show on acrylic, but how could you make an entire video without a demonstration of a plane or chisel? For the hand-powered tool fanatic, the same acrylic can be engraved with hand gavers, and raw edges can be polished quite well. I have used it for intaglio printing, as well as relief. For the advanced project, one can engrave the material, then polish the cut surface to yield very nice figures and textures. Anyway, thanks Rex (from another Rex).
This is a very helpful video. I agree with John A. Mangum's previous reply though. SAFETY FIRST.
Safety glasses should be worn for sure. Did you see how that acrylic strip shot off when he snapped it? It even surprised Rex! Also, can you imagen getting some of that solvent in your eyes?
Don't wait for the close call or worse!
I just started incorporating some acrylic pieces into my projects. Your video was very informative. Thorough, clear, and good production value. Thank you very much for this. I'll check out your other videos.
Nice video coverind the basics. I'd like to see a section on drilling holes.
Two safty suggestions:
1. Keep the table saw blade only about 1/8" higher or less thanthe peice you are cutting. I'd rather take a 1/8" chunk off my fingers than a 1" chunk.
2. I would use the miter gauge with the fence when using a table saw. Maybe no one has experienced kickback cutting acrylic, but why take a chance? I use a compound sliding miter saw for these cuts so no worries about fences or miters gauges.
Thank you for the clear and concise explanation. Good luck to the Betta.
The Beta is fine, but thanks for watching!
Well explained. Thanks for the syringe container tip on applying solvent.
Also sometimes referred to as a “capillary bottle” if you have any trouble locating one.
Great video and some great info. I’ve done a little bit of work with acrylic but have just used ca as I didn’t realize that there was an specific type of glue for that. Will definitely have to pick some up next time I have a project using acrylic.
Absolutely loved watching this. It gave me so many ideas. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you liked it! Acrylic does open up a lot of possibilities. I've made good money making things from acrylic for my furniture clients.
The best circular saw blade for cutting acrylic (or any plastic or sheet metal or aluminum extrusions) is one with zero to negative rake teeth. They don't pull a vibrating piece of stock into the tooth gullet and you don't get nearly as much chipping of the surface. The teeth don't dig in like a chisel or a plane iron, but drag across the work like a scraper.
A similar technique works really good with drilling. You have to modify the drill bit though. You use a
dremel tool with one of those brown cut-off wheels (I call them potato chip disks cause they break like potato chips between your fingers). With the disk in the same plane as the centerline of the drill bit, dull the cutting points of the drill bit so the point of the drill doesn't lift the chips into the drill bit flutes. This works great on sheet metal too -- the drill bit wont screw itself through before making a round hole. It also works really well with Lexan (polycarbonate) . Have you ever tried drilling that stuff?
I do drill it, but I typically use a specialty bit like a Forstner. Not great luck with twist drills.
Excellent as always. Thank you for sharing.
Nice vid. To midigate heat build up with things like Jig Saws you can spray a little water on the cut path. Similar to using lubricant while cutting/machining metal.
- Thanx 4 making the info so clear.
My pleasure!
Dear Rex and viewers,
50 years ago I used to make my own acrylic cement for museum pathology mounts. We dissolvedacrylic shavings and chips from squaring with a plane, in chloroform. This cement behaves not just as solvent, but also as a filler.
Mike R retired med scientist.
Subscribed most definitely. YOu can be the best at anything and that same person can be very difficult to learn from. This guy is wicked at what he does and that includes teachng. New fav after that nerdy guy with the good heart, Steve Ramsey from Mere Mortals. Cheers mate. even tho im from Manitoba Canada lol.
With a delicate touch, you can use the heat of a propane torch to smooth the rough edges of a cut. However, do this only on exposed edges that will not be bonded. The solvent will craze a heat-smoothed edge.
It's so funny. When you started demonstrating the acrylic adhesive I thought "I wonder if that could make a water-tight seal". And sure enough, you brought out the water. The reason I was wondering was because I attempted to make an acrylic container for ... wait for it ... a Betta! And BINGO, you dropped in a Betta! Oh how serendipitous! 😃
( i realize this was probably interesting only to me )
Hi Jon, please, make sure you're building a vessel that will hold at least 5 gallons of water for that Betta. Yes, they can live in a small cube, but they thrive in a larger environment with plants and other items to enrich their lives.
@@chrisowens517 - You assume too much.
Great video
I've worked with a lot of a arylic through years of aircraft. Another way to cut acrylic is similar to cutting glass. Score the sheet deeply with a knife or better yet awkl or scribe. Clamp to your benchtop with a straight board right along the line and bend down. The acrylic will snap along the line.
I've made a lot of display cases for all kinds of stuff. I buy my acrylic at the hardware store and they have an acrylic cutter. I just give them the dimensions and they'll cut it like it came from the factory that way.
Awesome!
That was Great...Thank you for your time doing it
It was my pleasure!
Really enjoyed this in 2019- good job!
Really glad it's still useful!
Same here. I'm building a framed acrylic door for my 3D printer enclosure.
You also need to cover edge finishing. I have scraped and sanded edges and ended up with a satin finished edge. However, my favorite way was to take a torch and "flame finish" the edge. Just run the flame quickly over the edge a few times and you will end up with a nice, smooth and shiny edge.
Practice on some scrap pieces first and you will be pleasantly surprised how quick and easy it is to do.
Exactly what I was looking for. Good job.
Very glad it was useful to you!
very good work very well explained ! in detail thank you
Veeeeeery cool Video. Specially the gluing part
Rex: thank you for this video. It was timely in my current project. I always butcher acrylic and Plexiglas - your is helping. It's funny, I've watched woodworking channels hard for about 4 years now, and today is the first time your popped up. I'm glad, and after having watched 2 of your others - "subscribe". I'm gonna grab a beer and watch some more this evening. I was hoping you would show how to clean up acrylic edges. My edges with 1/8" acrylic will be exposed. I've tried sanding, propane (don't need MAPP for anything else but this, so I didn't buy), scraping, etc - all to no avail. I still had a sloppy or melted edge. Can you blast out an edge treatment video for this? I like your channel, your style, your articulateness, your brevity. Perfect. Again - "subscribe"!!!!! Thanks again.
I'm really glad you liked the video. I've had pretty good luck cleaning up edges with fine sandpaper on a block to keep edges from getting rounded. I hear the torch trick works great, but I haven't tried it myself.
We used to make our own solvent cement, just disolve small bits of acrylic into chloroform. Takes a while and should be done in a fume cabinet, make it as thin or thick as you like.
I really like this guy! Makes me want to go start my channel again! You gained a sub!
Great and informative video I learned a lot from! I have used a high speed contour saw (don't have a belt saw) with very thin blade for those few projects I add some acryllic pieces, and that is not always the best outcome regarding the melting you mention. I really needs a certain speed in the movement of the acryllic, but if I then stop for a second to check the path I've lined up, it actually melt the acryllic together again.. So, what I do normally, until I saw this video, is to saw an millimeter outside the path, and then fix melts and other things with a fine sandpaper. It works, but not effective and not always the best results either. Ok, again, great video, and thanks for sharing!
You know, it sounds like you're a great problem-solver. Many people would have let the melting stop them, but you found a way and got it done. Impressive!
Great video since you have that talent of speech you could probably complement this tutorial with the home made acrylic bender I'm sure it would be well explained and joyful to make best regards.
That's a really good idea. I don't have an acrylic bender, but just today I was flame-polishing some acrylic edges. I could do a follow-up video. Thanks for the suggestion!
Best video I've seen on RUclips in a long time. What would you reccomend on gluing acrylic to wood?
I think epoxy will work well.
What would you use to split a larger block of acrylic? Have a 5"x1.5"x3/8" block of polypearl acrylic that I need to split lengthwise into two slabs (ending with 5x1.5x3/16 blocks). Using this for knife handle making
Rex, thank you for another very informative video experience. I learn many useful things from your videos and appreciate the time and effort that must go in to making them.
It is a lot of effort, but I really love doing it, so it's not a problem. Glad you're enjoying it!
I seldom worked acrylics but I think this is an awesome tutorial!!
Afer Etis I'm really glad you liked it. acrylics aren't hard and they're a good tool to have in the chest.
I have a large piece of Plexiglas 1 " thick. I want to make a router fence out of it. any suggestions?
Just that wood is probabaly a better choice. That 1" acrylic is expensive and hard to find, so I suggest you use it for something special.
That's some great info on gluing technique.
Do you have much (or any) experience bending acrylic by applying heat?
This is one of the best (if not the best) explanations/demonstrations regarding acrylic I've seen on RUclips. Subscribed!
KSFWG I've done a bit of heat bending, but only to experiment. there is good bending info online and it doesn't take much heat. thanks for the sub! new content soon.
Haha yes jigsaw does not cut acrylic at all....disaster.....how,would,you cut a 4ft x 8ft piece in half?...without a table saw?
I have bent acrylic plexiglass via heatbgun..works great...fyi...never uses isopropyl alcohol to clean plexi it will destroy it
@@shelby50411 - you can cut large acrylic sheets using the scoring method. Use a scoring tool, much like a single saw tooth, usually made of 8-10 mm diameter tool steel and set in a file handle. The cutting process is much similar to cutting glass, if you have seen one. Make a few deep scores along the cut line and then simply break away at the cut line. Perhaps this video would help see how it's done.
ruclips.net/video/pzUiBsPDq4I/видео.html
Great video and tips!
Use UV bonding for clarity, Superglues are very variable in results - more expensive so it depends on the result you need
what about a radius edge ? on a piece of 3/8 or 1/2" acrylic - if you were putting a radius on an edge - would you use a router ?
I'm sure that would work great, but experiment with speed. Too fast=melting.
I heart you, my hoomanovalord!
Hey, thanks so much for the funny and very informative video. I was going to use a jig saw. Not now. You saved me a lot of frustration. Thanks so much. Dave.
I'm really glad I could help!
What about gluing the acrylic to wood. Did you have a joint like that in the restaurant piece you showed at the beginning of the video? I'm interested in knowing if it can be glued to wood. Thanks!
what kind of adhesive would you use to glue the acrylic to wood? Say, putting edge of acrylic into a 1/8 or 1/4 dado (depending on acrylic thickness) or something along that line.
Interesting question. I think the best approach would be epoxy. It bonds well to both substances. Or, if you need a flexible joint, silicone caulk would probably work, but you should experiment. Good luck!
They make blades for jigsaws and hacksaws especially for acrylics, but I have to say the jigsaw one isn't the best! It can clog up with melted plastic very fast. The hacksaw blade however does a good job. I liked your wood block idea!
It's not my idea; I just read about it. Still, I'm really glad you liked the video and I'll remember that tip about the hack-saw blades. I think I even have a few. Good tip!
I wat to make double wall acrylic similar to double wall POLYCARBONATE sheets. Do you think the double wall acrylic with have a better insulation property's that the double wall polycarbonate ? I'm attempting to make a glass studio/office.
Thanks for all the useful information
Mark S. You're totally welcome!