How to tin Litz-Wire
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 1 май 2016
- Roger introduces our AM ferrite-rod antenna and demonstrates 2 ways of tinning litz-wire.
Support Roger on Patreon: / kainkalabs
If possible use leaded solder-wire (e.g. PB60/SN40)
Litz-wire & AM-Antennas in our shop: www.ak-modul-bus.de/stat/passi...
Forum: forum.kainkalabs.com/forumdis...
Shop: www.ak-modul-bus.de/
twitter: / kainkalabs
facebook: / kainkalabs 
Наука
This was good information. I left a thumbs up. I did get tired of all the "Um's" and "uh's"
lead free solder melts at 422 degrees F. Regular around 300 deg. F
We are here in Celsius-land. The melting-point depends somewhat on the silver-content. Most melt between 210°C and 240°C.
Nice Watch by the way =]
thank you for the video, what is the Litz wire size used here and how many strands?
Thank you for this video. I just discovered litz wire attempting to work on a small earbud speaker wire. Amazing stuff. Your video helped. I have a inexpensive hot air station for smd work that will go to 400c and am in hopes I can use that vs a flame, then dip into denatured alcohol. A good idea?
Just try it.
BTW: Better than the kitchen burner I showed is a simple cigarette-lighter.
Ah and the litz-wire used for earphones, speakers etc.is different to the litz-wire used in RF-applications for AM-antennas like ferrite-rod (loopstick) antennas.
In the RF-type litz-wire each single strand has an isolation (usually a polyurethane coating).
In applications where only the flexibility of litz-wire is needed (earphones etc.) the meshwork are pure (uncoated) copper-wire. So there basically is no need to use the method demonstrated here.
You can just resolder those (uncoated) litz-wire with normal electronic solder without any preparation.
Thx. I opened the small cord only to find both wires in strands run together with what appeared to be no insulation between them! The GND/shield looked like copper, and the + was reddish. So tiny. When I tried to tin them, the solder had no effect or adherence on either. That's when I went looking and found your video and others about lite wires. Impervious to a 750f iron, and scraping with a knife didn't work either. Guessing the coating is polyurethane. Will test later today with suggestions. Cheers!
Ah yes. I once had exactly the same thing. This red coated wire was next to impossible to solder :-)
Well, I think I can say, "Success"! My hot air station (YouYue 858D+) actually goes to 450c/842f and I applied that heat close until the threads interwoven with the wires smoked. Then, a 5sec dip in the Denatured Alcohol cup. I then used an exacto-knive (which is a bit too much) to scrape off the now brittle coating. Super-fine sandpaper would be a better choice I think.
The strands took solder using a 750f setting applied for about 5-10secs. Continuity check succeeded. Thanks so much. Excellent videos.
I've been in electronics since the early 60's and I've never used a temperature controlled soldering iron. Ya just plug em in and they get hot, then get to work. I've seen them, but for the price they want......Na. Most soldering irons just have two settings, plugged in and unplugged. One I used to have said it got to 750 degrees but there was no way to verify that.
The ethanol trick is one I hadn't heard of. Does it have to be ethanol or would isopropal work as well.....have to try it. I'm not a big fan of "denatured" as I feel that the additional ingredients may detract from its technical use and who really wants poison lurking around the house.
AFAIK it only works with ethanol but I´m not 100% sure.
In all the sites you find with Google there is always ethanol used for reducing copper-oxide to copper.
It´s a classical experiment but I´m not so much into chemistry to give a definite answer.
The best soldering iron I ever had was a 60W Weller TCP (do a search for Weller W 61 for more details of the modern version). They work by having a magnetic slug in the tip that loses it's magnetism when it reaches a certain temperature which then release a magnet driven switch. It's not a variable temperature iron, to change the temperature you change the tip. The advantage I found using it was that it didn't get overheated like a uncontrolled 60W can if you are using it on small temperature sensitive joints like transistor legs but it would also solder large joints that would drain a smaller power soldering iron. It also didn't cool down when doing multiple joints like a lower power one can. It effectively became two soldering irons in one, a low powered one and a high powered one, if that makes sense. It was the only soldering iron I needed and it was also bombproof.