People need to understand the EcoFlow wave is made for a very small space to worked as expected or advertised.Trying to cool a house room will not work!! Good review Mr. 👍
It may sounds stupid but u can increase the cooling capacity by a huge amount by just blowing away the cold air with a secondary Vent. Else it will create some kind of cold air pool just infront of it. I did play around with it for a looong time, and this does work really welll.
Lots of comments here and everywhere about the lackluster performance of the Wave 2 in their particular situation. A truck, car, camper, van has usually a factory AC system. Doing a simple search will lead to the avg vehicle's AC system being rated from 10,000 to 17,000 btu. These systems have to overcome a lot of factors like windows and lack of insulation. Get inside a vehicle during the summer before cranking the AC and it's 130 degrees or more inside. With that said...you can't expect the Wave 2 of 5000btu to compete with that. It's 1/3 of what you really need.....hence the overall disappointment. Combine that with improper insulation and you are headed for failure. My space is aprox 100 cubic feet and insulated. Take away the sun and the Wave can handle it.
Not responding to this post specifically but I see a lot of people unhappy with the unit who are expecting it to do what it isn’t designed to do, cool tin boxes sitting on the sun. A look at the specs in any detail would tell you exactly what it can or can’t do. If you expect a small unit with this design to do the impossible, that is on the buyer👽
I am in Alabama and deal with similar heat/humidity as you. I use my wave 2 to “cool” a 5x9 hiker trailer (teardrop style). It has vent ports with rv sewer connectors that I was able to buy a 3d printed connection for the wave 2 to basically pump the air in from outside the trailer. Earlier this month I took it down to St. Andrew’s State Park in 90°+ temps and no shade. The wave 2 couldn’t effectively cool the trailer at all during the day but in the evening was able to keep it around 75° inside. I recently picked up an aluminet reflective shade to keep the trailer from cooking when exposed to full sun and had similar results to yours (I dropped from 86 to 76) but I was running on max mode. I think I need to insulate my pipe coming in because the app says the air is around 42° from the wave 2 but I measured 57° coming through the vent in the trailer. I’m sure there is some efficiency loss with the condensation that builds up on the pipe outside the trailer.
The heat exiting is not from the interior, it's the heat generated from the cooling process from the equipment. Also the intake is not pulling fresh air into the space, just the equipment. It operates similar to a mini-split. If you google the schematic for this equipment that will help understanding why the two tubes vent to outside.
Well, i recently spent $1500 on the Wave 2, battery, and Alternator charger. I consider my experiment a failure. I live on the coast of S Carolina, where it's very hot and humid during the s Summer, averaging 92 degrees and 70% humidity. I purchased to cool down a Ram 1500 crew cab and E250 Econoline vanvat the job site. Well, it didn't go as planned. With the intake and exhaust tubes sealed off through the window, i was getting an 18 to 20 degree temperature split which is good, but only cooled the space 2 to 3 degrees per hour in High mode. For a 5k btu or so AC, this is disappointing. As you mentioned, the exhaust tube gets hot, but this is one of many design flaws of the ecoflow 2 that should've been identified during testing. Also, if I don't have the condensate pump set to automatically pump out water, then my unit will shut down every hour. I'm averaging between 400-500 watts in Eco mode. For the money i spent, I have to figure a wat for this thing to work for me. Disclaimer. I think this thing works better in hot and drier climates only.
So why have the intake sucking in hot air from outside when it can be sucking in the progressively cooler air that you’re cooling inside the space? only an American wouldn’t get this 🤷♂️, something about you Trumpsters
It's not an easy unit to use; the unit needs to be at the same level as the ducts like in the pictures in the manual (due to rising and falling properties of hot and cold air, it can get chocked when heating this way, cold air can't be exhausted UP a 1-2 meter pipe), both pipes are almost a necessity, DC is is better then AC, it can't go down in external temp to much or it stops working, the unit has trouble with dumping humidity (water) sometimes, again mostly due to the ducting needing to go down in a slope etc etc. It is however a great product, just many people don't use it within specs and or are not communicated all that well by EcoFlow.
Duct height? That's ridiculous. Unless it's trying to push/pull air 50 ft up a wall, nobody should be claiming duct height is a factor. If it was a factor, this would obviously be a POS.
It’s a very easy unit to use, delete the intake hose and let the machine use the progressively cooler air to cool the space not with the intake outside sucking in the constantly hot air making the machine work beyond its capabilities, mine works absolutely brilliant in my 13 ft van in 46 degree heat
Part of the reason you want the intake and outtake air from outside the space is so you're not pulling more humidity into the space with the vacuum caused from exhausting interior cooled air. I definitely think, from other videos I've watched, that it Does expand the capabilities when it gets super cold outside though! @FRERABRETZ1
@@NoZenith this little air con does not work at all with the intake outside as when I bought it the outside temp was 46 degrees and sucking in the hot air from outside was not an option, there was zero humidity as I was in marble bar in Western Australia, this worked perfectly when I had one zipper window slight open at the other end of my van and the intake using the cooler cabin air, love this thing but not sure how it will work in your humid environment, it’s hot dry heat here in the goldfields of Australia and perfect the way I use it.
@@Outdoor-Adventures I don't think that technique is that effective. No recirculation taking place which I think is what makes any AC efficient at cooling
@@Florida_Adventureplease educate me, I’m a little confused, if you run the exhaust hose outside to from the trailer and the return fresh air hose also to the outside, so what difference does it make, I can understand if the weathers is raining then you would want the ac unit inside the trailer, thanks for your inputs.
@@Outdoor-Adventures your question only said "hose" which in my mind is singular. However you seem to want to use both hoses. One as the return and one as the cold air output....I think you might find some decent results with that one. If you can....insulate both hoses for better efficiency. Anything is better than nothing.
I have some cheap Chinese 1800 BTU plastic AC ($500) in my micro camper van conversion in Florida. It's the shape of wall unit but smaller and runs on 24v it blows cool for very little watts. In my conversion all my hot & loud appliances/devices (including my AC, fridge, chargers, adapters, controllers and battery) are in the back top part of the van which is sealed and ventilated out with single vent/fan the ceiling - its a hot box back there. I can feel cold air coming out of the AC and see humidity draining out, BUT even with a tiny insulated sleeping space (4'x6'x4'), I would never say its ever comfortable during a summer day even on a cloudy day. FYI My entire roof is covered by a 320w panel that likely helps block the sun and that made a huge difference, but not enough. At night however, The AC does make just enough difference and helps me get to comfortable enough for sleeping on the worst nights of the Florida summer. I run 2 USB fans, a 15L fridge and that 1800btu AC at around 100watts per hour. So overnight from 10pm to 6am I consume only 15% of my 460AH lithium battery which is usually north of 80% thanks to solar and dc-dc charging. IMO, if you want to sleep cool in Florida at night without AC, you need to go to the middle of the state away from the coast and pavement to higher ground, even if only 100' above sea level on sand where temps do drop after midnight by over 5F compared to the coast. 5F can make a huge difference.
I think it's a cute idea that might work for some people. Being that it's only capable of cooling down a closet-sized area, that complicates things for most people. I have a large homemade power supply, and a 5000 BTU window shaker with manifolds. I can run at 24/7 in 100 ° Heat, because that's what air conditioners have to do sometimes. Battery air conditioners can work, but you got to have enough air conditioner and enough battery.
I wish these companies would use a standard LiFePO4 battery. Most use a lithium Ion Battery, as they produce more energy and can be smaller. The LiFePO4 gives you way more recharge times before they need to be replaced. Also these companies change things and go bankrupt. So you will not get a replacement battery, its a throw away. Yes the unit will be a little bigger who cares you can get a battery anywhere, and it wont cost you an arm and leg to replace.
perhaps ecoflow should allow you to use non-proprietary batteries, it's very hard to justify the purchase of their very expensive battery when some of us already invested money on other systems.
Search on adding cheap battery to ecoflow. TL;DR: Use a 24v battery or a voltage booster to feed into the solar input. Details depend on which ecoflow unit you use. For my Delta 2 Max, a 48v battery (or boost) works best, and it needs to use the XT60i (3rd contact connected to negative) for maximum input watts.
@TRUTHandANSWERS I was thinking the same thing. I have a 6k btu Midea window unit in my Mbr, and this thing rocks! I keep at 68 degrees at night, and the thing runs on the lowest setting and freezes me out.
Doesn't make any sense to use the intake to bring in hot air from outside and try to cool it. Recirculating the inside air is more efficient. Think of a regular window unit for a home. It's not sucking in outside air.
you need to use this correctly, the intake needs to be in taking the progressively cooler air from inside the room you’re cooling not the constantly hot air from outside making your machine struggle to cool extremely hot air all the time, mine works an absolute treat with the intake tube left off, I run mine on eco mode in my caravan after an hour with 46 degrees outside in Western Australia, I also get 9 hours out of my battery
@@Kamikaze3557 I’ve literally just done the infrared thermometer test with mine in my 13ft caravan, massive cooling temp difference and massive cooling time difference, no need to be a heat pump expert to do real world tests in a real environment, it’s cold here anyway but still get a huge difference with testing, it’s not rocket science to be using cool air to cool the air rather than the hot air from outside, only a stupid American would think otherwise.
Perhaps ecoflow should include an insulated sleeve with each purchase.
@@salvationbygracethroughfaith that's another good idea! Thanks! :)
People need to understand the EcoFlow wave is made for a very small space to worked as expected or advertised.Trying to cool a house room will not work!! Good review Mr. 👍
It may sounds stupid but u can increase the cooling capacity by a huge amount by just blowing away the cold air with a secondary Vent.
Else it will create some kind of cold air pool just infront of it.
I did play around with it for a looong time, and this does work really welll.
Not sure about ecoflow products may have to many problems but I like it if they come down on price...
Lots of comments here and everywhere about the lackluster performance of the Wave 2 in their particular situation. A truck, car, camper, van has usually a factory AC system. Doing a simple search will lead to the avg vehicle's AC system being rated from 10,000 to 17,000 btu. These systems have to overcome a lot of factors like windows and lack of insulation. Get inside a vehicle during the summer before cranking the AC and it's 130 degrees or more inside. With that said...you can't expect the Wave 2 of 5000btu to compete with that. It's 1/3 of what you really need.....hence the overall disappointment. Combine that with improper insulation and you are headed for failure. My space is aprox 100 cubic feet and insulated. Take away the sun and the Wave can handle it.
More like 2k BTU but the new wave 3 is 5100btu
@@tajwood7370
Isn't the wave 2 5100?
Haven't seen a wave 3 yet, have we?
@@bnrlabs5923 no the wave 2 is around 2200 btu the wave 3 is 5100 is still on back order though
Not responding to this post specifically but I see a lot of people unhappy with the unit who are expecting it to do what it isn’t designed to do, cool tin boxes sitting on the sun. A look at the specs in any detail would tell you exactly what it can or can’t do. If you expect a small unit with this design to do the impossible, that is on the buyer👽
I am in Alabama and deal with similar heat/humidity as you. I use my wave 2 to “cool” a 5x9 hiker trailer (teardrop style). It has vent ports with rv sewer connectors that I was able to buy a 3d printed connection for the wave 2 to basically pump the air in from outside the trailer. Earlier this month I took it down to St. Andrew’s State Park in 90°+ temps and no shade. The wave 2 couldn’t effectively cool the trailer at all during the day but in the evening was able to keep it around 75° inside. I recently picked up an aluminet reflective shade to keep the trailer from cooking when exposed to full sun and had similar results to yours (I dropped from 86 to 76) but I was running on max mode. I think I need to insulate my pipe coming in because the app says the air is around 42° from the wave 2 but I measured 57° coming through the vent in the trailer. I’m sure there is some efficiency loss with the condensation that builds up on the pipe outside the trailer.
You can never go wrong insulating especially in hot humid environments. It's how home HVAC's get the job done and these micro spaces are no different.
The heat exiting is not from the interior, it's the heat generated from the cooling process from the equipment. Also the intake is not pulling fresh air into the space, just the equipment. It operates similar to a mini-split. If you google the schematic for this equipment that will help understanding why the two tubes vent to outside.
This makes a lot of sense, thanks!
Great test! Thanks you
I have both intake and exhaust insulated.
i am confused. why is the intake duct collecting outside hot humid air? Wouldnt it be better recycling the cooler dryer air from inside?
please look at a diagram of the way these machines work, it will help. That's what I had to do.
Try this in Arizona in 115 summers
Well, i recently spent $1500 on the Wave 2, battery, and Alternator charger. I consider my experiment a failure. I live on the coast of S Carolina, where it's very hot and humid during the s
Summer, averaging 92 degrees and 70% humidity. I purchased to cool down a Ram 1500 crew cab and E250 Econoline vanvat the job site. Well, it didn't go as planned. With the intake and exhaust tubes sealed off through the window, i was getting an 18 to 20 degree temperature split which is good, but only cooled the space 2 to 3 degrees per hour in High mode. For a 5k btu or so AC, this is disappointing. As you mentioned, the exhaust tube gets hot, but this is one of many design flaws of the ecoflow 2 that should've been identified during testing. Also, if I don't have the condensate pump set to automatically pump out water, then my unit will shut down every hour. I'm averaging between 400-500 watts in Eco mode. For the money i spent, I have to figure a wat for this thing to work for me. Disclaimer. I think this thing works better in hot and drier climates only.
don’t use the inlet tube
So why have the intake sucking in hot air from outside when it can be sucking in the progressively cooler air that you’re cooling inside the space? only an American wouldn’t get this 🤷♂️, something about you Trumpsters
Mine works perfectly in 46 degrees c and makes my van very comfortable, no way I could stay in the van otherwise.
It's not an easy unit to use; the unit needs to be at the same level as the ducts like in the pictures in the manual (due to rising and falling properties of hot and cold air, it can get chocked when heating this way, cold air can't be exhausted UP a 1-2 meter pipe), both pipes are almost a necessity, DC is is better then AC, it can't go down in external temp to much or it stops working, the unit has trouble with dumping humidity (water) sometimes, again mostly due to the ducting needing to go down in a slope etc etc. It is however a great product, just many people don't use it within specs and or are not communicated all that well by EcoFlow.
@@Craftypiston Yes....I agree EF could do better with educating their customers on best use practices.
Duct height? That's ridiculous. Unless it's trying to push/pull air 50 ft up a wall, nobody should be claiming duct height is a factor. If it was a factor, this would obviously be a POS.
It’s a very easy unit to use, delete the intake hose and let the machine use the progressively cooler air to cool the space not with the intake outside sucking in the constantly hot air making the machine work beyond its capabilities, mine works absolutely brilliant in my 13 ft van in 46 degree heat
Part of the reason you want the intake and outtake air from outside the space is so you're not pulling more humidity into the space with the vacuum caused from exhausting interior cooled air. I definitely think, from other videos I've watched, that it Does expand the capabilities when it gets super cold outside though!
@FRERABRETZ1
@@NoZenith this little air con does not work at all with the intake outside as when I bought it the outside temp was 46 degrees and sucking in the hot air from outside was not an option, there was zero humidity as I was in marble bar in Western Australia, this worked perfectly when I had one zipper window slight open at the other end of my van and the intake using the cooler cabin air, love this thing but not sure how it will work in your humid environment, it’s hot dry heat here in the goldfields of Australia and perfect the way I use it.
Did you manage to check the humidity levels while doing the test?
What is your opinion on leaving the ac unit outside and just run the hose into the vehicle?
@@Outdoor-Adventures I don't think that technique is that effective. No recirculation taking place which I think is what makes any AC efficient at cooling
@@Florida_Adventureplease educate me, I’m a little confused, if you run the exhaust hose outside to from the trailer and the return fresh air hose also to the outside, so what difference does it make, I can understand if the weathers is raining then you would want the ac unit inside the trailer, thanks for your inputs.
@@Outdoor-Adventures your question only said "hose" which in my mind is singular. However you seem to want to use both hoses. One as the return and one as the cold air output....I think you might find some decent results with that one. If you can....insulate both hoses for better efficiency. Anything is better than nothing.
I have some cheap Chinese 1800 BTU plastic AC ($500) in my micro camper van conversion in Florida. It's the shape of wall unit but smaller and runs on 24v it blows cool for very little watts. In my conversion all my hot & loud appliances/devices (including my AC, fridge, chargers, adapters, controllers and battery) are in the back top part of the van which is sealed and ventilated out with single vent/fan the ceiling - its a hot box back there. I can feel cold air coming out of the AC and see humidity draining out, BUT even with a tiny insulated sleeping space (4'x6'x4'), I would never say its ever comfortable during a summer day even on a cloudy day. FYI My entire roof is covered by a 320w panel that likely helps block the sun and that made a huge difference, but not enough. At night however, The AC does make just enough difference and helps me get to comfortable enough for sleeping on the worst nights of the Florida summer. I run 2 USB fans, a 15L fridge and that 1800btu AC at around 100watts per hour. So overnight from 10pm to 6am I consume only 15% of my 460AH lithium battery which is usually north of 80% thanks to solar and dc-dc charging. IMO, if you want to sleep cool in Florida at night without AC, you need to go to the middle of the state away from the coast and pavement to higher ground, even if only 100' above sea level on sand where temps do drop after midnight by over 5F compared to the coast. 5F can make a huge difference.
Get a 5000 btu a/c home unite and mount it in the wall of the shell.
$ 200.00 max
Is the unit warm to the touch or mainly just the hose?
Links for attaching the hoses to the wall? I need those!
@@GeneMiller www.etsy.com/listing/1530673360/
I think it's a cute idea that might work for some people.
Being that it's only capable of cooling down a closet-sized area, that complicates things for most people.
I have a large homemade power supply, and a 5000 BTU window shaker with manifolds.
I can run at 24/7 in 100 ° Heat, because that's what air conditioners have to do sometimes.
Battery air conditioners can work, but you got to have enough air conditioner and enough battery.
Is that an Ecoflow Delta Max or a Delta Max 2?
Delta Max
I wish these companies would use a standard LiFePO4 battery. Most use a lithium Ion Battery, as they produce more energy and can be smaller. The LiFePO4 gives you way more recharge times before they need to be replaced. Also these companies change things and go bankrupt. So you will not get a replacement battery, its a throw away. Yes the unit will be a little bigger who cares you can get a battery anywhere, and it wont cost you an arm and leg to replace.
perhaps ecoflow should allow you to use non-proprietary batteries, it's very hard to justify the purchase of their very expensive battery when some of us already invested money on other systems.
Search on adding cheap battery to ecoflow. TL;DR: Use a 24v battery or a voltage booster to feed into the solar input. Details depend on which ecoflow unit you use. For my Delta 2 Max, a 48v battery (or boost) works best, and it needs to use the XT60i (3rd contact connected to negative) for maximum input watts.
@@Sylvan_dB my point is that it should work right out of the box...no DIY or jumping through hoops... but thanks
Great video! Very informative. I just posted my review… let me know if you can watch it and give me some tips to make it work for a high roof van🤟
NEVER see anything about warrenties on these or what you have to do for service
This thing sucked so bad. It wouldn't cool a closet. It only blew out at 65 degrees at the coldest. I hear of other people getting 45-50 degree air.
Dude is it just me or does the wave 2 suckkkkkk? $350 media plus the same watts and will freeze a bedroom out
@@TheJakobLott wave 3?????
Typo
@TRUTHandANSWERS I was thinking the same thing. I have a 6k btu Midea window unit in my Mbr, and this thing rocks! I keep at 68 degrees at night, and the thing runs on the lowest setting and freezes me out.
This video is dealing with a very low volume of living space so is not relevant for mos users.
Another ecoflow commercial. Yah…
Doesn't make any sense to use the intake to bring in hot air from outside and try to cool it. Recirculating the inside air is more efficient. Think of a regular window unit for a home. It's not sucking in outside air.
you need to use this correctly, the intake needs to be in taking the progressively cooler air from inside the room you’re cooling not the constantly hot air from outside making your machine struggle to cool extremely hot air all the time, mine works an absolute treat with the intake tube left off, I run mine on eco mode in my caravan after an hour with 46 degrees outside in Western Australia, I also get 9 hours out of my battery
Obviously you are not an hvac (heat pump) expert.
@@Kamikaze3557 I’ve literally just done the infrared thermometer test with mine in my 13ft caravan, massive cooling temp difference and massive cooling time difference, no need to be a heat pump expert to do real world tests in a real environment, it’s cold here anyway but still get a huge difference with testing, it’s not rocket science to be using cool air to cool the air rather than the hot air from outside, only a stupid American would think otherwise.
Take the inlet tube off completely and see how much more efficient it is. You’re welcome