It's nice to see a bigger channel showing real interest in Shark Byte. I think having you talking about what you do and don't like is gonna be great feedback to Fat shark
To think that I have a "bigger channel"! When did that happen! Just kidding. Shark Byte has its limitations for sure, but I've been having a lot of fun with it in this class of drone. I think it'll be great for racing too.
@@MrShutterBug correct me if I'm wron but honest I'm looking at shark bite and all I can think is that's puuuuurrrrrfect for whoops and micro builds 💪💪💪 inspiration filled 💪
Great build using the HDZero video. The ShutterBug85 appears to strike a nice balance of performance and practicality for a 2s setup. Looking forward to more HDZero hardware options becoming available.
I’ve been flying my beta 85 whoop for awhile now, many crashes and hasn’t broke yet. Even without carbon brace. Not like every other whoop frame I’ve flown that broke even when dropped , lol Fastest one I’ve flown too, love it! Your vids rock, just saying
I put off getting one for a long time because I knew that 3D printing would be a whole other hobby to learn about (and it is), but it is such a great tool if you want to design things for yourself or customize parts for a special purpose!
What do you think, would the 95x be a better platform to mitigate the weight? I remember you came up with the shutterbug85 and one of it’s biggest advantages was the low weight on 2s; boom, no more washouts! It seems you had some washout on this @14:17. I’m just wondering; would 95mm make it feel more like the 85 on analog?
Great question. The larger props would definitely carry the weight more gracefully, but it would push this drone up into a whole different weight class. The 95X frame is much heavier, and the 2.5" props would need larger motors. That could be great outdoors, but I wanted to stick with 85mm for this build. It's a nice balance and can still race indoors as well. Also, I wanted to stick with 2S because that's our racing spec and it is hard to find larger motors with a KV high enough for 2S. A 95X with Shark Byte could totally work though. I would probably go for 3S indoor or 4S outdoor with a build like that. :-)
@@MrShutterBug Right, that makes sense. I’m rockin some flywoo 1202.5 11500kv on 2.5inch 2s open prop (throttle limited to feel like 10k) and they rock, although lower kv 3s is more efficient and they indeed weigh more than 1103. So what kind of flight times do you get with this?
I saw that video too. It was quite the coincidence that our videos came out so close together. Lets Fly RC says they made that video before taking the time to tune the Babyshark, so the final product probably flies better than what they showed in the video.
@@MrShutterBug probably, but it did look bulkier, I am guessing that there's a bit to much weight to tune the prop wash. But they probably know better then me, so I might be wrong
Like other folks I love the builds you make and the way you explain your thinking in their design. Thanks for putting shark byte in your build as I like flying smaller drones where the dji hd system adds too much weight. I can see a shutterbug 85 in my future for sure!
I have used two of those JHEMCU flight controllers; both had an ESC fail after only a bunch of flights! That was on a 35 gram, 35mm prop whoop on 2s (with Runcam Split camera). Hope your FC will prove more durable!!
I don't know of any naked vista canopies that I would consider, "low profile". The 2 boards of the Vista take up some space and you want to make sure the canopy is big enough to protect everything. If you have a 3D printer, there are canopies you can print. If you don't, then you might want to look at the canopies betafpv sells with their naked Vista whoops. Hope that helps.
Great question. The larger props would definitely carry the weight more gracefully, but it would push this drone up into a whole different weight class. The 95X frame is much heavier, and the 2.5" props would need larger motors. That could be great outdoors, but I wanted to stick with 85mm for this build. It's a nice balance and can still race indoors as well. Also, I wanted to stick with 2S because that's our racing spec and it is hard to find larger motors with a KV high enough for 2S. A 95X with Shark Byte could totally work though. I would probably go for 3S indoor or 4S outdoor with a build like that. :-)
@@ndmfpv1776 yeah 1404 would work. You just need a 3-4S capable AIO. I’m not sure if the AIO would fit on the bottom of the frame, but you could try it if you want to put Shark Byte on top like I did. Good luck!👍
It's really happening! When digital FPV first came out, I decided it wouldn't be a success until light micro quads could fly well with the new hardware. I think it's safe to say that digital micro quads are legit.
I rewatched that video. I guess it wasn't literally 100% the whole time, but it felt like it. It would have actually been 100% the whole time if the batteries could keep up. That was a really large track, so managing power use was actually an important factor. Even in my yard, I have to let off the throttle some toward the end of a straight away so that voltage can recover enough to then make the hard 100% throttle turnaround at the end. It's right at the limits of what this build formula can do, but it's super fun! Anyway, here's the other video: ruclips.net/video/APu4vjs4qF4/видео.html
The adapter was made by betafpv. They include them with some of their drones, which have hard-to-access USB ports. I have asked them to sell the USB adapters individually, but I don't think they do. Sorry.
I’m gonna build a couple of these for IGOW! Just installed a hemera hotend for my 3d printer and your canopy is up on the print bed now. Can’t wait to try this build. What tuning suggestions do you have for BF 4.2.8?
For tuning, I suggest you start with the defaults and test it to make sure everything works first. It should fly pretty well with the default tune. Then, to make it even better, try increasing the P/D ration (more P) and the PID master multiplier (more of everything). It will benefit from higher PID values because the motors do not have as much authority as a 5-inch drone. But, if you hear oscillations, then back down. You may also want to increase your Feed Forward for a sharper response. You might want to leave the filtering the same, or you might get away with reducing the filtering. I can't say for sure about the filtering because it depends on the amount of vibration in your build and frame. Good luck.
Did you solder the motors to the FC outside the frame or while it was mounted in the frame? I'm always curious to your technique and how you don't melt the frame ;). Also is there a way to get a raw HD feed from the sharkbyte VTX to possibly record to an onboard DVR? Maybe the next version with have onboard DVR? That would probably convert me to sharkbyte if they included that feature.
I soldered the motors while the FC was already in the frame. It is actually possible to solder the motors before mounting the FC, but then you have to fit the motors through the opening at the bottom of the frame. It is possible to push them though that opening if you get the orientation right, but it is a pain. For me, it was simpler to just place the drone upside down and solder to the FC in place. You won't melt the frame unless you touch it with the iron, so yes some care is needed there. As for recording Shark Byte to an onboard DVR, I don't know of any way to do it today. It's hard to guess what features might be added in the future. I know that they are currently working on a VTX that's easier to mount into 5-inch racing drones, and they also said they were working on one for long range with higher output power. No mention of an onboard DVR so far.
The problem is that Shark Byte requires at least 2S voltage. A 1S Babytooth could carry the weight, but it couldn't power the VTX unless you had a voltage step-up converter. Unfortunately, those are rather bulky and inefficient. So 2S is the most obvious choice for small builds.
Yes, you're seeing a bit of blue from the canopy. The lens has a VERY wide field of view, so it picks up the blue from the canopy when light hits the canopy the right way. I trimmed the canopy back some to fix this problem, but it looks like I might need to trim it back a little more. It's a trade-off between protecting the camera inside the canopy, and having an unobstructed view.
Here's my review of BetaFPV's version of the ET5 BNF: ruclips.net/video/EHn5RcFMZzc/видео.html I think the 1506 motors they used are too small. They would be good on 4-inch but not 5-inch. The 2004 motors are much better on the ET5. You can see an example of that combination here: ruclips.net/video/5sJYGE7f6GU/видео.html
Hi Mr. ShutterBug. I just recently started flying FPV and have been going to 60 acres. Is it possible I could join you the next time you go flying so I could try to learn more about the hobby? Ive been flying tinywhoops and have been curious about upgrading to 3" or 5" quads. I love the videos, thank you for the hard work!
Is digital the future? I hope so, but there are still reasons to fly analog for now. It is cheap, it can be very light, and nothing is proprietary with analog which means companies are free to compete on all the components.
@@MrShutterBug Im moving from digital to analog in addtion because of these reasons. Started with the dji fpv drone. Moved on to the smaller emax babyhawk 2 hd. Now down to the crux 3 and Uruav UE85 to tks rocket 2s build. Love your channel. You rock in toothpick builds. Came across your et5 5inch sub 250 build first. Now I gave up on that bigger sub 250 and thought what the Heck. Get a toothpick 🙃
I saw a video recently of somebody experimenting with the difference between a regular and pusher whoop quad. He found that the pusher configuration gave him more thrust. Have you tried building a pusher to see if that makes a difference?
I have some "cinewhoops" that are pushers, and I built a light 65mm pusher whoop once. They work fine, but I'm not sure they actually work better. If there is a difference in thrust, then it is subtle. The main advantage of a pusher for cinewhoops is that it is easier to mount the HD camera forward so it doesn't see the ducts. I prefer the non-pusher format for most of my whoops because pushers have a lot of problems taking off from uneven ground. Just my preference.
Quick question, that last powerloop you did where you crashed due to the washout...were you using full throttle doing the powerloop itself? My Shutterbug85 type build of the same weight as yours would take me way up high in the sky doing that with full throttle. I wonder whether this Avan props are limiting your power delivery. Im using GF2023's.
@Mr ShutterBug Instead of tpu I'd try polypropylene - I'd recommend formfutura's Centaur which is a semi-flex and can handle crashes as well as tpu - and it is about 30% lighter. It does take some practice to get it to print well but in the end I'd chose it over tpu for most applications. However, do not get the ultralight version - which is complete B* to get perfect.
That sounds great as long as it doesn't let too much impact force translate to the tiny screws which hold it on. Would you need to make any changes to the printer to print polypropylene? I have a printer, but I am by no means an expert.
@@MrShutterBug I've never had it break at the screw holes myself - and no changes need to be made to the printer itself. I used a stock cr10 to print it with Noz: 237c Bed: 40c (higher if print warps), speeds of about 35mm, and the important thing is to use a clear tape to get it to stick to the bed (such as packing tape, kapton, etc.). I will print with a brim and sometime use that margin to `tack' it down if I think it'll warp. If you have any more troubles don't hesitate to ask. PP is also better at dealing with overhang - I've done some great camera holder designs with it.
I have made the same one with naked vista in it. But i want to modify the canopy, but i can not work with .stl. do you have the canopy for me in a 3d file to work with?
Here it is in OBJ format: drive.google.com/file/d/1iPxWGcsC78jVlIvaj2q_l-CZaKOOKr77/view?usp=sharing And here it is in GLB format: drive.google.com/file/d/1ykwZdm9rz_eSEYNDF0vL7voqd1GP4Kjz/view?usp=sharing Do either of those work for you?
@@MrShutterBug i can not show you a picture off my build. Bud i have made it to 58 grams with vista in it. And you canopy is too high 😅. (The 58 grams is with carbon frame! But with wrong motors 1102 10.000 try 1103 11.000 soon)
Oeh very cool! Now I have to make one too! The camera footage is not very impressive though... It looks like analog video to me. I currently use DJI but I'm struggling to get that onto tiny whoops. Therefore I mostly use my DJI goggles for analog flying because I mostly fly with my Tinyhawk. But when I see this footage it doesn't really sell Sharkbyte to me.
Hey ive been out of the hobby for a couple years but getting back into it with a jumper t lite, some ev800d's w/ better antennas and im trying to build an indestructible 3s whoop. I had to get out of the hobby multiple times because 5" breaks the bank lol this time i hope to not break much. My build consists of a beta85x frame w/ cf brace underneath, betafpv's 1105 5000kv motors, 2" 1940 hulkies, 3s 450mah lipo and itll be controlled by a flywoo goku gn413s aio. I scraped together what little knowledge i had on micros to come up with this, does this setup not match up? also using eachine nano vtx, rxsr and an ant nano cam
Hi! Your build sounds a lot like the official Beta85X. It should work just fine. 5000KV 3S will give you good control indoors. If you fly outdoors and want more power, you could also use 4S 450mah batteries, assuming the Flywhoo AIO can do 4S (can it?). I'm not familiar with that AIO myself.
@@MrShutterBug It states that it can, it seemed like a really good aio option! Awesome man, i was most worried about the motor KV, props and battery not being a compatible matchup but i have much more confidence in it now, thanks for your reply sir!
Yes, but I like this size. The 95X frame is significantly heavier, and the 2.5 inch props need significantly larger motors. Those motors usually have a lower KV which means you have to run 3S or 4S. All in all it ends up being a much heavier build and scarier to crash. This 85mm build I'm showing is right at the limits of what it can do with 2-inch props, but it's still safe enough to fly close to people and indoors, and 2S is required for our racing league. So yes, 95mm can totally work, but not for the same applications.
@@MrShutterBug I have 2 Shutterbug 85 and like them a lot too, but I'm interested to build a bigger one what motor size/kv do you suggest for a 95? Another frame that's I'm looking too is a 3" RaceWhoop....seems to be cool too.
@@msugrad01 these are the Quaddiction gates. Readymaderc used to sell them, but I think they’re discontinued now. Maybe someone else makes something similar? It’s great to have gates that fold up quickly.
Just sending this video to someone looking for a build rec and reading your description again - Have you round that you need a cap on the VTX for sharkbyte?
Yes, you definitely want to use a capacitor, but it doesn't have to be that huge capacitor that ships with the VTX. For a smaller build like this, a 150-250uF cap is probably enough. If your FC comes with a capacitor, then I would just use that one. It should be connected directly to the VBAT pads on the FC (not at the end of the power lead). If the VTX has good clean power, then it will deliver a clearer picture with fewer "sparkle" artifacts. You will know you need more power filtering if your video gets worse when you arm the motors. Hope that helps!
There is no requirement about Angle Mode vs Acro Mode. People are free to fly however they want. That said, I'm pretty sure everyone chooses acro mode for the outdoor races with the full sized MultiGP gates. When we race indoors with smaller gates (more like a 1S whoop race), then most people prefer Angle Mode, but not everyone.
Yes. BetaFPV actually sells a BNF 85X with the naked Caddx Vista. I built something similar, and you can see an example of that here: ruclips.net/video/2fSZLhW1wDM/видео.html I would say that the Vista build is great for exploring the world and taking in the scenery. I would say that the Shark Byte build is better for fast proximity flying and racing. Hope that helps. Cheers!
hi! I'm sooo building this! are you happy with the BetaFPV motors? I've seen T-Motor has the same size/KV, and XING (which I love) has 1103 10000KV Gen2, so a thousand less. would you suggest experimenting with either one, or stick with BetaFPV? thanks as always!
The BetaFPV motors are the right size and weight, but they do not have holes for prop screws. Some people prefer prop screws because some props are too loose otherwise. There are other options out there. I think you could go with any brand as long as long as they mount the same way, are similar in weight, and have similar specs.
Hey Nate, I'm currently planning on building an analog shutterbug85 and want to use a whoop camera for it to be as light as possible. Do you know if there are any canopies for those that use the stronger mounting holes in the frame?
Most whoop canopies mount to the same posts as the FC. They work OK, but eventually those posts do tend to break off. If you want the lightest possible build, then that's a compromise you'll have to make. If you want the most durable build, then I suggest printing my new canopy (shown in this video). You could use it with a Caddx Ant camera, which isn't that much heavier than a traditional whoop camera. If you don't have access to a printer, then betafpv does sell a canopy for those 14x14mm cameras, but it only has two screw holes, not 4. Good luck.
@@MrShutterBug thanks man!! I think I'm gonna go with one that just mounts to the same posts as the fc then, because I can get a whoop camera for literally $6 atm and I want the most performance I can get out of a whoop. If the posts do break off, I've found you can just drill holes and thread M2 screws though... Another thing, which batteries do you recommend for a normal analog shutterbug85 for general fast freestyle use? Do you think a gnb 450mah 2s non-hv would be a good balance between weight and battery sag?
@@ValFPV yes, GNB 450mah is a good choice. If you ever fly inside you can even get away with a 300mah 2S, but 450 is better outside where you will use more speed.
It might work, but would be safer to start with 4.2.9 defaults, then adjust the PID sliders to taste (increase PD balance and master multiplier 1-2 notches).
@@MrShutterBug it doesn't work just tried, : ) Did you use the NOX target for JHEMCU board on Betaflight 3.0? also, on BF 4.2, I get a sudden yaw one side out of nowhere using UAV tech preset, not sure why, any ideas appreciated. Thanks
Can you make me a canopy you show in the video about 12 minutes in? I built an exact copy of your 85. It flys pretty good but seems to overheat with the 85 canopy i bought at race day quads. I installed a ceramic antenna elrs rx and i get failsafes once things heat up. Also i saw you had your tune available for the 85x mine has a little roll wiggle while normal flying. Thanks for the content.
Sorry for the slow response. There is a link in the video description with the STL file for that canopy. If you don't know anyone with a printer, then there are mail order services that can print it for you. The material is TPU.
There is no way to answer that question. Tech is advancing all the time. Shark Byte does not have a crisp HD image like DJI does, but I enjoy the fact that I can put it into small build like this one, and the fixed frame rate and low latency feel great. It's probably good for 5" racing too, but I haven't tried that. People tell me that Shark Byte is capable of transmitting a true 1280x720 image (720p HD), but the current cameras are closer to the resolution of analog. If that is true, then we have not yet seen a camera that maximizes the capabilities of Shark Byte. If that materializes, then it could be great! I hear Orqa is working on their own digital system too. There will always be something new on the horizon. :-)
Some people were complaining about it being agains some unposted rule of the park. If so, that’s lame because I obviously wasn’t causing a problem for anyone, but… I didn’t feel like arguing about it so I removed the video, at least for now. What’s up? Did you have a question about it?
@@MrShutterBug It's unfortunate those people felt the need to be obtuse. As someone that flies playground spots I really enjoyed that location. There are always other spots though. I didn't have a question. I've just been coming back to that video over the last couple of days. I'm in need of something in between my Tinyhawk S and Crux3. The Tinyhawk S is a great cruiser, but doesn't have the acro performance I need. The Crux3 just isn't durable enough to hold up in those playground spots, and it's a bit much for a public park anyway. I'm always worried about joggers sneaking up on me. After breaking a frame on a jungle gym today I came home and was going to watch your playground video again to talk myself into spending the money to build an 85mm whoop. I thought I was going crazy when I couldn't find it. Thanks for letting me know what happened with the video, and thanks for the all the design work and testing you do. The 85mm stuff you've done is great, and the lightweight 65mm work you did that led to the moblite was a game changer. Micros are important, it's good to see someone pushing that class forward.
@@JoryIsHere I obviously really like the 85s. If you keep the dry weight under 45g, it’ll fly great. If you weigh it down like I did with this one, then the thrust-to-weight ratio leaves some to be desired, but still lots of fun. 3S is with lower kv (8000kv range) is also an option if you use a 3S-capable FC. 3S will give less voltage sag, but the batteries tend to be heavier. I decided to stick with 2S because I have the batteries and we have a local racing group that is 2S-max. I hope you have fun with whatever you choose.
Thank you for your Work and the B4.3 Settings, but how can i use them without working firmware ? JHEMCU Play F4 Target = Nox BF4.3 Configurator say: Target = betaflight_4.3.0_STM32F411 and AIRB-NOX.config After flashing nothing worked, no Gyro, no Serial... So im unable to use your settings and i wonder what firmware/config did you use ? Thank you
Sorry. I used an early development version of bf4.3. It changed quite a bit before the official release candidates, so my settings are no longer relevant. I’ll update the video with a warning about this. If you want to use BF 4.3, then you should be able to use the default settings. It should fly cleanly on defaults, but you can adjust the tuning sliders to tweak it to your liking.
@@MrShutterBug not able to read a question, answering totally different stuff...then BLOCKING the user who asked the question. were talking in discord about your acting here, such a shame for you. if blocking is helping you, feel free to block me too. that must be the so called "american way of free speech"
I have not tried it. If the quality is good, then it should fly well. It is basically the same specs as my Nanohawk conversion (see “popular uploads” on my channel)
Hi sir I have 1105 6000lv brushless left over. I think I want use this motor and yes it's heavy plus low kv. Do u think is this good ideas for flew this heavy 86x +1105 6k motor. I will use emax a an prop or similar 4 blade prop. So I need some input whether this is is flyable or not with 2s 450mah and 3s 450mah lipo. My budget is low on motor die to I already regret biying many pcs motor that I have can fly be a I go straight to tp3 build. But I'm newbie and still new in fpv stuff
The Shark Byte VTX has to be connected to a pair if RX/TX pads on the FC, you have to enable MSP for that UART on the Ports tab, and for “canvas mode” OSD there are two CLI commands. I recommend finding the section on canvas mode in the official Shark Byte manual. Good luck.
@@ffbigboss62 set msp_displayport_serial = 0. UARTs start counting at zero internally. So the one called UART1 on the Ports tab is actually called 0 internally.
@@MrShutterBug Hello I have tried everything it does not work 😞 I will flash the FC play f4 whoop What's the no for flashing and which version did you install please a big thank you for your help!
@@ffbigboss62 I'm using a nightly build of Betaflight 4.3 (not yet officially released). On a previous build, I used Betaflight 4.2.8 and that also worked for OSD. I don't think it works on any version newer than 4.2.8. Sorry you've been having so much trouble with it. Good luck!
A single AIO including Shark Byte would be awesome, but don't hold your breath. It wouldn't fit on an AIO even the electronics were compressed to half the size. After all, most AIOs use up all of their space with just the stuff needed to fly. One component you would NOT need on the AIO would be an analog OSD chip. That would free up space... but not enough space unfortunately.
The word "whoop" was the invention of Jesse Perkins, who created tinywhoop.com. Now, the word "whoop" is a household name used to refer to any micro drone with a nylon frame of this basic shape.
I have not tried the BeeBrainBL 2S. Presumably it would work fine. The only other frame is the one used in the “Cinecan”. That frame is lighter but not as durable.
I got a Shutterbug85 ever since I saw your first build and it’s also the whoop that sticks around… I actually use it to try out tricks… It’s by far the most resistant whoop! I’d love more powerful motors to fight the yaw washout though… and that whoop FC is still working despite the misery it went through 😉 Long live the Shutterbug 🤘🤘🤘
I’m glad you enjoy it! The main thing that limits performance is actually the battery sag. I need so see if I can make it more efficient (a relative term). As for the washouts, the carbon brace can also help. Flex in the frame causes the PID controller to work extra hard, and the battery sag prevents it from recovering. Bigger motors would have more torque but they would also cause more flex in the frame. It’s a trick balance. Moving up to 3S would help a build like this one because it would take less current to deliver the same power. Anyway, there’s lots of things we can try. That’s the fun part! 😁
For me, switching to Gemfan 2023 props got rid of most of my yaw washout. Increasing my camera uptilt beyond 30 degrees also helped a little bit. For reference, I'm on 2s without the brace.
It's nice to see a bigger channel showing real interest in Shark Byte. I think having you talking about what you do and don't like is gonna be great feedback to Fat shark
To think that I have a "bigger channel"! When did that happen! Just kidding. Shark Byte has its limitations for sure, but I've been having a lot of fun with it in this class of drone. I think it'll be great for racing too.
@@MrShutterBug correct me if I'm wron but honest I'm looking at shark bite and all I can think is that's puuuuurrrrrfect for whoops and micro builds 💪💪💪 inspiration filled 💪
The Master of small craft has spoken....im listening
Now the cameras are better, I’m building one. Late to the game, but excited to give it a go. Thanks!
Thank you for having some legit music for the dronedads out here lol
So, look out for the BETAFPV version of this build coming out soon 😆
🤣😂🤔
Loll
wow !! the flight looks like the video has been speeded up!!! you are a fast pilot !!! thanks for sharing.
Great build using the HDZero video. The ShutterBug85 appears to strike a nice balance of performance and practicality for a 2s setup. Looking forward to more HDZero hardware options becoming available.
Nate, I built 1 of these it’s great! I swapped 1103 motors for 1202.5 with slightly higher 11500kv. Totally worth the small weight penalty IMO.
I’ve been flying my beta 85 whoop for awhile now, many crashes and hasn’t broke yet. Even without carbon brace. Not like every other whoop frame I’ve flown that broke even when dropped , lol Fastest one I’ve flown too, love it! Your vids rock, just saying
That’s so good!!! Man I’m gonna be spending more money! Gotta get a 3D printer!!!
Yeah after watching this video I am wishing I had one as well!
I put off getting one for a long time because I knew that 3D printing would be a whole other hobby to learn about (and it is), but it is such a great tool if you want to design things for yourself or customize parts for a special purpose!
Nice video refreshing to see more SB videos speaking of what are your impressions of SB not only for racing but freestyle as well? Thanks!
It is now time to upgrade this build with HDZero Runcam Micro HD camera! Awesome build as always!
I wouldn’t want to make this build any heavier than it already is. My HDZero cam will be going on a larger drone.
I floss my motors when I land in that fine dirt lol. Love this build great flying
Thanks for the canopy design on Thingiverse. I've had one printed in blue TPU and put it on my Shutterbug85-type build and like the canopy a lot.
What a kick ass song dude
Very freakin cool. This is one of my Favorite RUclips channels. Please keep doing what you do👍🏼👍🏼
great video, Shark Byte looks pretty nice on 2s
What do you think, would the 95x be a better platform to mitigate the weight? I remember you came up with the shutterbug85 and one of it’s biggest advantages was the low weight on 2s; boom, no more washouts! It seems you had some washout on this @14:17. I’m just wondering; would 95mm make it feel more like the 85 on analog?
Great question. The larger props would definitely carry the weight more gracefully, but it would push this drone up into a whole different weight class. The 95X frame is much heavier, and the 2.5" props would need larger motors. That could be great outdoors, but I wanted to stick with 85mm for this build. It's a nice balance and can still race indoors as well. Also, I wanted to stick with 2S because that's our racing spec and it is hard to find larger motors with a KV high enough for 2S. A 95X with Shark Byte could totally work though. I would probably go for 3S indoor or 4S outdoor with a build like that. :-)
@@MrShutterBug Right, that makes sense. I’m rockin some flywoo 1202.5 11500kv on 2.5inch 2s open prop (throttle limited to feel like 10k) and they rock, although lower kv 3s is more efficient and they indeed weigh more than 1103.
So what kind of flight times do you get with this?
@@danieldavelaar 2-3 minutes when I race outdoors with 550-600mah 2S. A little longer if I fly casual or indoors.
After seeing what RR and let's fly RC came up with, i am glad to say that your build seems to fly just incredibly better.
I saw that video too. It was quite the coincidence that our videos came out so close together. Lets Fly RC says they made that video before taking the time to tune the Babyshark, so the final product probably flies better than what they showed in the video.
@@MrShutterBug probably, but it did look bulkier, I am guessing that there's a bit to much weight to tune the prop wash. But they probably know better then me, so I might be wrong
@@57r4n63r certainly every gram counts. 😉
Like other folks I love the builds you make and the way you explain your thinking in their design. Thanks for putting shark byte in your build as I like flying smaller drones where the dji hd system adds too much weight. I can see a shutterbug 85 in my future for sure!
I have used two of those JHEMCU flight controllers; both had an ESC fail after only a bunch of flights! That was on a 35 gram, 35mm prop whoop on 2s (with Runcam Split camera). Hope your FC will prove more durable!!
I hope so too
Very cool build, I want 1! (Or 3) 😁
great build, i have the digisight 2 but i won't put it on a analog build.
Many bonus point for cool music! 🤟
Superb! absolutely perfect instructions..thanks!
Combing racing with roof inspection .... that's a first!
oh yeah I was about to comment that you should try the 2.4 elrs coz those receivers are tiny. nice
Great vid.. as always. Could you leave a link to a naked vista low profile whoop canopy
I don't know of any naked vista canopies that I would consider, "low profile". The 2 boards of the Vista take up some space and you want to make sure the canopy is big enough to protect everything. If you have a 3D printer, there are canopies you can print. If you don't, then you might want to look at the canopies betafpv sells with their naked Vista whoops. Hope that helps.
Love this build... thank you for everything youve done for fpv 🤩🙏
If you add some screen mesh on the canopy of the drone it would look very cool.
Awsome drone.
Great flights, and performance. Do you think the motors will stay with a little more weight?
All your stuff is so cool.
Hey Nate, I was just curious if you’ve ever thought of doing a similar build with the 2.5 in prop version of this frame?
Great question. The larger props would definitely carry the weight more gracefully, but it would push this drone up into a whole different weight class. The 95X frame is much heavier, and the 2.5" props would need larger motors. That could be great outdoors, but I wanted to stick with 85mm for this build. It's a nice balance and can still race indoors as well. Also, I wanted to stick with 2S because that's our racing spec and it is hard to find larger motors with a KV high enough for 2S. A 95X with Shark Byte could totally work though. I would probably go for 3S indoor or 4S outdoor with a build like that. :-)
Thank you for the input! I have 1404s laying around and a 95x you think that would work? 🤔
@@ndmfpv1776 yeah 1404 would work. You just need a 3-4S capable AIO. I’m not sure if the AIO would fit on the bottom of the frame, but you could try it if you want to put Shark Byte on top like I did. Good luck!👍
It's really happening! When digital FPV first came out, I decided it wouldn't be a success until light micro quads could fly well with the new hardware. I think it's safe to say that digital micro quads are legit.
I can't tell from the pictures, but did you actually soft mount the flight controller?
Thank you for the great content!
Yes
Is there more video of that 2S race where you could fly full throttle for the whole track? :)
I rewatched that video. I guess it wasn't literally 100% the whole time, but it felt like it. It would have actually been 100% the whole time if the batteries could keep up. That was a really large track, so managing power use was actually an important factor. Even in my yard, I have to let off the throttle some toward the end of a straight away so that voltage can recover enough to then make the hard 100% throttle turnaround at the end. It's right at the limits of what this build formula can do, but it's super fun! Anyway, here's the other video: ruclips.net/video/APu4vjs4qF4/видео.html
Another cool build Nate!
Awesome build, as always.
Would you please have a link to the USB adaptor you're using ?
The adapter was made by betafpv. They include them with some of their drones, which have hard-to-access USB ports. I have asked them to sell the USB adapters individually, but I don't think they do. Sorry.
@@MrShutterBug Thanks a lot
I’m gonna build a couple of these for IGOW! Just installed a hemera hotend for my 3d printer and your canopy is up on the print bed now. Can’t wait to try this build. What tuning suggestions do you have for BF 4.2.8?
For tuning, I suggest you start with the defaults and test it to make sure everything works first. It should fly pretty well with the default tune. Then, to make it even better, try increasing the P/D ration (more P) and the PID master multiplier (more of everything). It will benefit from higher PID values because the motors do not have as much authority as a 5-inch drone. But, if you hear oscillations, then back down. You may also want to increase your Feed Forward for a sharper response. You might want to leave the filtering the same, or you might get away with reducing the filtering. I can't say for sure about the filtering because it depends on the amount of vibration in your build and frame. Good luck.
Nice Nate! Thanks
I just burn my shutterbug FC. Can you recommand me a good 2s FC (not crazybee) ? Jhemcu is it still Alive?
Did you solder the motors to the FC outside the frame or while it was mounted in the frame? I'm always curious to your technique and how you don't melt the frame ;). Also is there a way to get a raw HD feed from the sharkbyte VTX to possibly record to an onboard DVR? Maybe the next version with have onboard DVR? That would probably convert me to sharkbyte if they included that feature.
I soldered the motors while the FC was already in the frame. It is actually possible to solder the motors before mounting the FC, but then you have to fit the motors through the opening at the bottom of the frame. It is possible to push them though that opening if you get the orientation right, but it is a pain. For me, it was simpler to just place the drone upside down and solder to the FC in place. You won't melt the frame unless you touch it with the iron, so yes some care is needed there.
As for recording Shark Byte to an onboard DVR, I don't know of any way to do it today. It's hard to guess what features might be added in the future. I know that they are currently working on a VTX that's easier to mount into 5-inch racing drones, and they also said they were working on one for long range with higher output power. No mention of an onboard DVR so far.
loved ya choice of music
I'm curious of what was the flight times? I thought I saw 2:07 in one of the crash but not sure if the overall.
2-3 minutes of hard racing. Probably 4-5 if you flew gentle (but I never do).
Thanks for sharing this build it looks awesome cheers
Appreciate your sharp wisdom...but I am keen to 1s digital build ...so waiting for 1s sharkbyte whoop...
The problem is that Shark Byte requires at least 2S voltage. A 1S Babytooth could carry the weight, but it couldn't power the VTX unless you had a voltage step-up converter. Unfortunately, those are rather bulky and inefficient. So 2S is the most obvious choice for small builds.
Odd that I see a little blue props in view but no prop guards. Is it the canopy
Yes, you're seeing a bit of blue from the canopy. The lens has a VERY wide field of view, so it picks up the blue from the canopy when light hits the canopy the right way. I trimmed the canopy back some to fix this problem, but it looks like I might need to trim it back a little more. It's a trade-off between protecting the camera inside the canopy, and having an unobstructed view.
Always informative. THX!
Looks super fun. Also thanks for the coupon!
Have you flown the Twig ET5? Its only about 130$ after the coupon...
Here's my review of BetaFPV's version of the ET5 BNF:
ruclips.net/video/EHn5RcFMZzc/видео.html
I think the 1506 motors they used are too small. They would be good on 4-inch but not 5-inch. The 2004 motors are much better on the ET5. You can see an example of that combination here:
ruclips.net/video/5sJYGE7f6GU/видео.html
@@MrShutterBug thanks, I think I have some 2203s that might work from fpvcycle
Ok how much would you charge me to build one for me??? RTF?? That freaking thing Rips!!! And the durability!!!🤘🤘👍👍
Not for sale, but you can build one ;-)
Good one Nate.
Hi Mr. ShutterBug. I just recently started flying FPV and have been going to 60 acres. Is it possible I could join you the next time you go flying so I could try to learn more about the hobby? Ive been flying tinywhoops and have been curious about upgrading to 3" or 5" quads. I love the videos, thank you for the hard work!
Sure! Let’s talk privately. You can email me using the address on my YT about page. 🙂
@@MrShutterBug sounds good! i just sent you an email! Looking forward to it!
Sweet build!
I liked a lot the Gemfan 3 and 4 blades. For race the 4 blades are better, for fun and freestyle, I prefer the 3 blades.
Super cool man! I'm just getting into fpv is digital the future for whoops? The video looks amazing for something so small.
Is digital the future? I hope so, but there are still reasons to fly analog for now. It is cheap, it can be very light, and nothing is proprietary with analog which means companies are free to compete on all the components.
@@MrShutterBug Im moving from digital to analog in addtion because of these reasons. Started with the dji fpv drone. Moved on to the smaller emax babyhawk 2 hd. Now down to the crux 3 and Uruav UE85 to tks rocket 2s build. Love your channel. You rock in toothpick builds. Came across your et5 5inch sub 250 build first. Now I gave up on that bigger sub 250 and thought what the Heck. Get a toothpick 🙃
amazing brother
I saw a video recently of somebody experimenting with the difference between a regular and pusher whoop quad. He found that the pusher configuration gave him more thrust. Have you tried building a pusher to see if that makes a difference?
I have some "cinewhoops" that are pushers, and I built a light 65mm pusher whoop once. They work fine, but I'm not sure they actually work better. If there is a difference in thrust, then it is subtle. The main advantage of a pusher for cinewhoops is that it is easier to mount the HD camera forward so it doesn't see the ducts. I prefer the non-pusher format for most of my whoops because pushers have a lot of problems taking off from uneven ground. Just my preference.
Quick question, that last powerloop you did where you crashed due to the washout...were you using full throttle doing the powerloop itself? My Shutterbug85 type build of the same weight as yours would take me way up high in the sky doing that with full throttle. I wonder whether this Avan props are limiting your power delivery. Im using GF2023's.
The battery was sagging if I recall. That was part of it. This build needs top notch batteries.
yeah the flight footage was cool too
@Mr ShutterBug Instead of tpu I'd try polypropylene - I'd recommend formfutura's Centaur which is a semi-flex and can handle crashes as well as tpu - and it is about 30% lighter. It does take some practice to get it to print well but in the end I'd chose it over tpu for most applications. However, do not get the ultralight version - which is complete B* to get perfect.
That sounds great as long as it doesn't let too much impact force translate to the tiny screws which hold it on. Would you need to make any changes to the printer to print polypropylene? I have a printer, but I am by no means an expert.
@@MrShutterBug I've never had it break at the screw holes myself - and no changes need to be made to the printer itself. I used a stock cr10 to print it with Noz: 237c Bed: 40c (higher if print warps), speeds of about 35mm, and the important thing is to use a clear tape to get it to stick to the bed (such as packing tape, kapton, etc.). I will print with a brim and sometime use that margin to `tack' it down if I think it'll warp. If you have any more troubles don't hesitate to ask. PP is also better at dealing with overhang - I've done some great camera holder designs with it.
I have made the same one with naked vista in it. But i want to modify the canopy, but i can not work with .stl. do you have the canopy for me in a 3d file to work with?
Here it is in OBJ format:
drive.google.com/file/d/1iPxWGcsC78jVlIvaj2q_l-CZaKOOKr77/view?usp=sharing
And here it is in GLB format:
drive.google.com/file/d/1ykwZdm9rz_eSEYNDF0vL7voqd1GP4Kjz/view?usp=sharing
Do either of those work for you?
@@MrShutterBug thanks for your support in the hobby!
@@MrShutterBug i can not show you a picture off my build. Bud i have made it to 58 grams with vista in it. And you canopy is too high 😅. (The 58 grams is with carbon frame! But with wrong motors 1102 10.000 try 1103 11.000 soon)
Oeh very cool! Now I have to make one too! The camera footage is not very impressive though... It looks like analog video to me. I currently use DJI but I'm struggling to get that onto tiny whoops. Therefore I mostly use my DJI goggles for analog flying because I mostly fly with my Tinyhawk. But when I see this footage it doesn't really sell Sharkbyte to me.
Hey ive been out of the hobby for a couple years but getting back into it with a jumper t lite, some ev800d's w/ better antennas and im trying to build an indestructible 3s whoop. I had to get out of the hobby multiple times because 5" breaks the bank lol this time i hope to not break much. My build consists of a beta85x frame w/ cf brace underneath, betafpv's 1105 5000kv motors, 2" 1940 hulkies, 3s 450mah lipo and itll be controlled by a flywoo goku gn413s aio. I scraped together what little knowledge i had on micros to come up with this, does this setup not match up? also using eachine nano vtx, rxsr and an ant nano cam
Hi! Your build sounds a lot like the official Beta85X. It should work just fine. 5000KV 3S will give you good control indoors. If you fly outdoors and want more power, you could also use 4S 450mah batteries, assuming the Flywhoo AIO can do 4S (can it?). I'm not familiar with that AIO myself.
@@MrShutterBug It states that it can, it seemed like a really good aio option! Awesome man, i was most worried about the motor KV, props and battery not being a compatible matchup but i have much more confidence in it now, thanks for your reply sir!
i know this is a dumb question but in the bottom right corner what does it do
Have you seen the tks rocket 2s build? How does it compare to this 3 inch?
Would some 1103 8500kv motors on 3s also make sense on this?
Yeah, that would work great for 3S. Just be careful to keep the weight down. For 3S, I would use 450mah 3S or smaller.
@@MrShutterBug wow, an answer from the man himself 😆, thank you, helps me a lot
Nate have you tried to build a Shutterbug 95?
Yes, but I like this size. The 95X frame is significantly heavier, and the 2.5 inch props need significantly larger motors. Those motors usually have a lower KV which means you have to run 3S or 4S. All in all it ends up being a much heavier build and scarier to crash. This 85mm build I'm showing is right at the limits of what it can do with 2-inch props, but it's still safe enough to fly close to people and indoors, and 2S is required for our racing league. So yes, 95mm can totally work, but not for the same applications.
@@MrShutterBug I have 2 Shutterbug 85 and like them a lot too, but I'm interested to build a bigger one what motor size/kv do you suggest for a 95?
Another frame that's I'm looking too is a 3" RaceWhoop....seems to be cool too.
Great build! It’s added to my build list. Where did you get those gates? I need smaller targets than my neighbors trees :)
@@msugrad01 these are the Quaddiction gates. Readymaderc used to sell them, but I think they’re discontinued now. Maybe someone else makes something similar? It’s great to have gates that fold up quickly.
Just sending this video to someone looking for a build rec and reading your description again - Have you round that you need a cap on the VTX for sharkbyte?
Yes, you definitely want to use a capacitor, but it doesn't have to be that huge capacitor that ships with the VTX. For a smaller build like this, a 150-250uF cap is probably enough. If your FC comes with a capacitor, then I would just use that one. It should be connected directly to the VBAT pads on the FC (not at the end of the power lead). If the VTX has good clean power, then it will deliver a clearer picture with fewer "sparkle" artifacts. You will know you need more power filtering if your video gets worse when you arm the motors. Hope that helps!
Wow, nice one. Are these races always in acre?
Aaand where is that Rx antenna on that nice build?
There is no requirement about Angle Mode vs Acro Mode. People are free to fly however they want. That said, I'm pretty sure everyone chooses acro mode for the outdoor races with the full sized MultiGP gates. When we race indoors with smaller gates (more like a 1S whoop race), then most people prefer Angle Mode, but not everyone.
Oh, and the Crossfire Rx antennas are taped to the back guards. If you watch all the way to the end, you'll see how I did it. ;-)
Do you think it would be possible to build this with a naked vista and 3S? Or maybe something similar to this, with the prop guards.
Yes. BetaFPV actually sells a BNF 85X with the naked Caddx Vista. I built something similar, and you can see an example of that here:
ruclips.net/video/2fSZLhW1wDM/видео.html
I would say that the Vista build is great for exploring the world and taking in the scenery. I would say that the Shark Byte build is better for fast proximity flying and racing. Hope that helps. Cheers!
@@MrShutterBug It does. Thank you!
hi! I'm sooo building this! are you happy with the BetaFPV motors? I've seen T-Motor has the same size/KV, and XING (which I love) has 1103 10000KV Gen2, so a thousand less. would you suggest experimenting with either one, or stick with BetaFPV? thanks as always!
The BetaFPV motors are the right size and weight, but they do not have holes for prop screws. Some people prefer prop screws because some props are too loose otherwise. There are other options out there. I think you could go with any brand as long as long as they mount the same way, are similar in weight, and have similar specs.
@@MrShutterBug great, thanks
Could you share your tune for this pls Nate ? Getting low flight times on my stock Meteor 85 w new batts ..
Hey Nate, I'm currently planning on building an analog shutterbug85 and want to use a whoop camera for it to be as light as possible. Do you know if there are any canopies for those that use the stronger mounting holes in the frame?
Most whoop canopies mount to the same posts as the FC. They work OK, but eventually those posts do tend to break off. If you want the lightest possible build, then that's a compromise you'll have to make. If you want the most durable build, then I suggest printing my new canopy (shown in this video). You could use it with a Caddx Ant camera, which isn't that much heavier than a traditional whoop camera. If you don't have access to a printer, then betafpv does sell a canopy for those 14x14mm cameras, but it only has two screw holes, not 4. Good luck.
@@MrShutterBug thanks man!! I think I'm gonna go with one that just mounts to the same posts as the fc then, because I can get a whoop camera for literally $6 atm and I want the most performance I can get out of a whoop.
If the posts do break off, I've found you can just drill holes and thread M2 screws though...
Another thing, which batteries do you recommend for a normal analog shutterbug85 for general fast freestyle use? Do you think a gnb 450mah 2s non-hv would be a good balance between weight and battery sag?
@@ValFPV yes, GNB 450mah is a good choice. If you ever fly inside you can even get away with a 300mah 2S, but 450 is better outside where you will use more speed.
would pasting the CLI for 4.3 work with current version of beta flight? or have they made significant changes on PID configuration. thanks
It might work, but would be safer to start with 4.2.9 defaults, then adjust the PID sliders to taste (increase PD balance and master multiplier 1-2 notches).
@@MrShutterBug it doesn't work just tried, : ) Did you use the NOX target for JHEMCU board on Betaflight 3.0? also, on BF 4.2, I get a sudden yaw one side out of nowhere using UAV tech preset, not sure why, any ideas appreciated. Thanks
What is the max flight time it could do with maybe some more moderate (slower) flying?
I'm not sure because I always like to go fast, but I would guess around 4-5 minutes with similar battery.
Can you make me a canopy you show in the video about 12 minutes in? I built an exact copy of your 85. It flys pretty good but seems to overheat with the 85 canopy i bought at race day quads. I installed a ceramic antenna elrs rx and i get failsafes once things heat up. Also i saw you had your tune available for the 85x mine has a little roll wiggle while normal flying. Thanks for the content.
Sorry for the slow response. There is a link in the video description with the STL file for that canopy. If you don't know anyone with a printer, then there are mail order services that can print it for you. The material is TPU.
Is it a good time to get sharkbyte ? Just don’t want to jump in and a month later an improved hardware gets released
There is no way to answer that question. Tech is advancing all the time. Shark Byte does not have a crisp HD image like DJI does, but I enjoy the fact that I can put it into small build like this one, and the fixed frame rate and low latency feel great. It's probably good for 5" racing too, but I haven't tried that. People tell me that Shark Byte is capable of transmitting a true 1280x720 image (720p HD), but the current cameras are closer to the resolution of analog. If that is true, then we have not yet seen a camera that maximizes the capabilities of Shark Byte. If that materializes, then it could be great! I hear Orqa is working on their own digital system too. There will always be something new on the horizon. :-)
What happened to the video of you flying this in the playground? I can't seem to find it now.
Some people were complaining about it being agains some unposted rule of the park. If so, that’s lame because I obviously wasn’t causing a problem for anyone, but… I didn’t feel like arguing about it so I removed the video, at least for now. What’s up? Did you have a question about it?
@@MrShutterBug It's unfortunate those people felt the need to be obtuse. As someone that flies playground spots I really enjoyed that location. There are always other spots though.
I didn't have a question. I've just been coming back to that video over the last couple of days. I'm in need of something in between my Tinyhawk S and Crux3. The Tinyhawk S is a great cruiser, but doesn't have the acro performance I need. The Crux3 just isn't durable enough to hold up in those playground spots, and it's a bit much for a public park anyway. I'm always worried about joggers sneaking up on me.
After breaking a frame on a jungle gym today I came home and was going to watch your playground video again to talk myself into spending the money to build an 85mm whoop. I thought I was going crazy when I couldn't find it.
Thanks for letting me know what happened with the video, and thanks for the all the design work and testing you do. The 85mm stuff you've done is great, and the lightweight 65mm work you did that led to the moblite was a game changer. Micros are important, it's good to see someone pushing that class forward.
@@JoryIsHere I obviously really like the 85s. If you keep the dry weight under 45g, it’ll fly great. If you weigh it down like I did with this one, then the thrust-to-weight ratio leaves some to be desired, but still lots of fun. 3S is with lower kv (8000kv range) is also an option if you use a 3S-capable FC. 3S will give less voltage sag, but the batteries tend to be heavier. I decided to stick with 2S because I have the batteries and we have a local racing group that is 2S-max. I hope you have fun with whatever you choose.
Dude, thanks for share It. Amazing! Please share the stl for the canopy with us when possible. Best regards from Brazil 🙂👍
Yeah, check back tomorrow. I should have it up on Thingiverse by then.
@@MrShutterBug thank you, downloading right now. I will try to print It tomorrow
Thank you for your Work and the B4.3 Settings, but how can i use them without working firmware ?
JHEMCU Play F4 Target = Nox
BF4.3 Configurator say: Target = betaflight_4.3.0_STM32F411 and AIRB-NOX.config
After flashing nothing worked, no Gyro, no Serial...
So im unable to use your settings and i wonder what firmware/config did you use ?
Thank you
Sorry. I used an early development version of bf4.3. It changed quite a bit before the official release candidates, so my settings are no longer relevant. I’ll update the video with a warning about this. If you want to use BF 4.3, then you should be able to use the default settings. It should fly cleanly on defaults, but you can adjust the tuning sliders to tweak it to your liking.
@@MrShutterBug not able to read a question, answering totally different stuff...then BLOCKING the user who asked the question.
were talking in discord about your acting here, such a shame for you. if blocking is helping you, feel free to block me too.
that must be the so called "american way of free speech"
OMG try out the Eachine novice 3 then turn it into the best toothpick
graet video im about to fiish my buid wih shark byte thank u for this video .
Cool! Have fun!
Hey what's the song? sounds like megadeth but i am not sure. Anyways great build, im glad to see content on shark byte!
Scroll to the bottom of the video description text. 👍
@@MrShutterBug right 🤦, guess i cant read
Good lawwd she bad 🔥
Hey could you share a link for those blue coaxial cables ?!! Can't find em in India . :(
What blue coax? Do you mean the short MIPI cable I used? It is sold as a replacement cable for the Caddx Turtle V2 camera.
@@MrShutterBug yes. I meant that cable . Hey thanks for replying man . Love watching your videos the technical aspect is very well put.
Ngl when my plastick frame gave up I made a toothpick put of that carbon plate and she is still going strong 🤣🤣
Is it URUAV UZ85 good Whoop?
I have not tried it. If the quality is good, then it should fly well. It is basically the same specs as my Nanohawk conversion (see “popular uploads” on my channel)
Hi sir I have 1105 6000lv brushless left over. I think I want use this motor and yes it's heavy plus low kv. Do u think is this good ideas for flew this heavy 86x +1105 6k motor. I will use emax a an prop or similar 4 blade prop. So I need some input whether this is is flyable or not with 2s 450mah and 3s 450mah lipo. My budget is low on motor die to I already regret biying many pcs motor that I have can fly be a I go straight to tp3 build. But I'm newbie and still new in fpv stuff
Would luv to print this canopy
Cool! I'll have it up on Thingiverse soon. Check back later for the SLT link.
@@MrShutterBug your a good man!
hello I have the same configuration I can not put osd how did you do thank you
The Shark Byte VTX has to be connected to a pair if RX/TX pads on the FC, you have to enable MSP for that UART on the Ports tab, and for “canvas mode” OSD there are two CLI commands. I recommend finding the section on canvas mode in the official Shark Byte manual. Good luck.
@@MrShutterBug Uart 1 CRF RX uart 2 vtx
set osd_displayport_device = MSP
set displayport_msp_serial = 1
I did well?
@@ffbigboss62 set msp_displayport_serial = 0. UARTs start counting at zero internally. So the one called UART1 on the Ports tab is actually called 0 internally.
@@MrShutterBug Hello I have tried everything it does not work 😞
I will flash the FC play f4 whoop
What's the no for flashing and which version did you install please a big thank you for your help!
@@ffbigboss62 I'm using a nightly build of Betaflight 4.3 (not yet officially released). On a previous build, I used Betaflight 4.2.8 and that also worked for OSD. I don't think it works on any version newer than 4.2.8. Sorry you've been having so much trouble with it. Good luck!
Does anyone know if there are any bnf DJI quads that are close to this in design?
With some time, shark byte 2 could be built in to aio whoops and maybe better than DJI !!! (unless dji includes it into whoops first)
A single AIO including Shark Byte would be awesome, but don't hold your breath. It wouldn't fit on an AIO even the electronics were compressed to half the size. After all, most AIOs use up all of their space with just the stuff needed to fly. One component you would NOT need on the AIO would be an analog OSD chip. That would free up space... but not enough space unfortunately.
Through the winter I moved to micros love flying them but all that Itty bitty soldering drives me nuts
What is a whoop?
The word "whoop" was the invention of Jesse Perkins, who created tinywhoop.com. Now, the word "whoop" is a household name used to refer to any micro drone with a nylon frame of this basic shape.
What about the BeeBrainBL Boards with their light weight, 2S, and 12A ESCs?
Also, does anyone else make frames that are this caliber?
I have not tried the BeeBrainBL 2S. Presumably it would work fine. The only other frame is the one used in the “Cinecan”. That frame is lighter but not as durable.
I want one!
I bought a 50$ foxeer camera for analog/ night flying. Yup, best purchase ever lol.
I got a Shutterbug85 ever since I saw your first build and it’s also the whoop that sticks around… I actually use it to try out tricks… It’s by far the most resistant whoop!
I’d love more powerful motors to fight the yaw washout though… and that whoop FC is still working despite the misery it went through 😉
Long live the Shutterbug 🤘🤘🤘
I’m glad you enjoy it! The main thing that limits performance is actually the battery sag. I need so see if I can make it more efficient (a relative term). As for the washouts, the carbon brace can also help. Flex in the frame causes the PID controller to work extra hard, and the battery sag prevents it from recovering. Bigger motors would have more torque but they would also cause more flex in the frame. It’s a trick balance. Moving up to 3S would help a build like this one because it would take less current to deliver the same power. Anyway, there’s lots of things we can try. That’s the fun part! 😁
For me, switching to Gemfan 2023 props got rid of most of my yaw washout. Increasing my camera uptilt beyond 30 degrees also helped a little bit. For reference, I'm on 2s without the brace.
nice