It works fine in reverse because the cable is trying to untwist, which actually produces a force that stops it from slipping out Whereas when going forward, the cables pull together, which produces a force that pulls it out of the socket
I recommend making a straightening sleeve/brace made out of pipe, or far thicker and tighter wound wire welded to the bezel of the hub ends, while better securing the shaft ends to the hubs to prevent the build up of spring tension and torsion to the rope. This will solidly make the axle as rigid as possible on the ends, and to prevent the shafts from bending while retaining the horizontal flexibility of the metal rope. Well done nonetheless and I hope to see more!
POSSIBLE SOLUTION for next time... From what I could see, you had 2 weak points. Firstly, the one cable (drivers’ side) was tensioning or twisting up the wrong way. It needs to be the same direction as the driving force. Basically, flip the cable around so it will twist or wind up when you go forward. You can see the reverse of this happening when you go backwards... Secondly, the crimping of the cables is a very weak point. I would take the cable ends and dip them in some boiling solder or something to seal up the ends. Then I would put 2 or 3 nuts and bolts right through the shaft or tube and cable. That should then give it the strength to hold in place and not disintegrate. Also, I wouldn't use a round tube, maybe use a square tube and you can use 2 different sizes to interlock which should help with expanding of the shaft and cable. At 1 point you can see the whole thing pulling out a few centimetres! But try it and let's see if it can work better that way.
Flipping the cable wont reverse the twisting. It's like turning a bolt around, the threads still will still rotate the same direction. You need a wire rope that is twisted the opposite direction.
It was a very very valiant effort Team Garage 54. Thanks for sharing this video with us. Have an awesome day or night. And thanks again to BMI Russian for all the time and work and effort to translate for us. Byes for now. See ya next video.
I've got a suggestion. Shorten the knuckles on a front wheel drive car for more steering angle. See if the axles can withstand the added angle and measure how much smaller the turning radius is. Once you test the stock axles, try modding them to see if they can take even more angle.
@@steveholland1163 Thats on a rwd car. Most drift cars go this route. I was always curious to see if it can be done a fwd car, not bc of drifting, but to make smaller u turns.
I guess part of the problem is when you weld the rope to the end pieces, you are only welding to most outer strands. Maybe it would be more successful if you could somehow weld across the entire diameter of the rope where it joins
You could create quite a stir in town if you were to black out the windshield and all of the other windows on a Lada so that there is absolutely no way to see in or out of the car. Then mount several small cameras to video monitors inside the car allowing you to drive around Novosibirsk in a "Stealth-Drone-Lada." For this important project, please use the car you previously painted with blacker-than-the-dead-of-night-black paint!
Flexible cable drives need some form of mechanical support along the way to prevent them from twisting onto themselves. For the smallest stuff, that mid-span support is often your hand. For slightly more serious stuff, the drive cable is coaxial with a static outer sheath similar to bicycle cable jackets. The next rung above that is cable inside a pipe like some gas-powered gas trimmers do, though that would defeat the point of having a cable drive in place of CV axles.
12:46 Don't be disappointed because you win some and you loose some, either way its a win because we all learn whats goes or no goes, like a filler gage.
I have not watched yet. But if you can lock both ends of it in. So when it twists it does not pull out of the diff or the hub yes. This will work. Now I will watch and see how it goes. If you have read this far I Hope You Are Having A Great Day And That You And Your Loved Ones Are Healthy And Safe!
There are cables that can transfer torque, but they generally need a sleeve exactly to prevent this sort of problem. Without a sleeve to force the cable to keep its length, it will just start coiling onto itself at its weakest point. In your case, the sleeve would have to be a solid pipe or several sections of wire, kinda like an armoured snake, but the fewer the better.. Only a small portion of the rope should be sleeveless, to allow for bending.
Video suggestion! See how many codes you can possibly get an OBD2 car to throw at one time, while still remaining drivable. You could start with loosening the fuel cap and escalate to unhooking vacuum lines, tricking or unhooking sensors in the engine and transmission, sabotaging injectors and so forth. I think that would be entertaining.
Interesting proof of concept exp[eriment. OK - but I do use for lower torque and high speed work, multispiral Hydraulic hose .... go try yourselves with suitable swaged ends to screw on to couplings. ... and there's more to it too ( TOP SECRET ). I've watched many of your videos - great stuff and thank you for you spending my time and effort on finding out at your expense. Keep up the good work - More people need to try things out to see and understand the simple ways of machines.
I enjoy your channel. You fine gentlemen come up with some interesting automotive tests and challenges. On top of that you use cars I am not familiar with as I am from the USA, and that' makes for different content than I'm used to. You said you failed in this video, but I would disagree. You had a result, and have answered the question you set out to find. So I don't see it as a failure It's interesting to see what you fellows do and I look forward to more great content from you. God Bless, and be safe in your travels.
So a solution here is to stop the flex in the steel rope by adding a sleeve. The flex is causing huge forces a this in turn creates heat and stress which shortens the life of the steel rope. By adding a hollow sleeve this would reduce these forces by hopefully enough to at least have a test drive 🤔😉
Suggestion: Tyres that go over the wheel instead of inside it. Cut off the two rims of the wheel and weld them to plain circular plates. You now have two separate disks that can be fitted inside each side of the tyre and the tyre can be pressurised to look like a ball. One of the metal sides will of course be fitted with something that fits to the car somehow. You essentially have a one rimmed wheel and a free-floating blank. Can the tyre support the car?
I always wondered if this would work. I guess only if it has a casing over it like a speedometer cable or a string trimmer does, but that wouldn’t really work in this situation either.
Torsion stiffness or in other words how much torque something can withstand is proportional to the 3rd power of the diameter IF it is one piece. So, in this case: you have many small strands or wire, let's say 1mm. Let's say there are 100 of them. The strands don't interact with one another - as lead not if you load the cable with torsion in the opposite way the cable is wound*. Basically you have 100 times 1^3 = 100 of "torsion resistance". Let's say the axle that was replaced here was 20mm in diameter. So the "torsion resistance" was 1 times 20^3 = 8000. This shows how important is it that you not only have mass or much steel, but it needs to work together the right way. So, this was never going to work and the way the cable was attached to the hub was crude at best. * the side where the torsion worked to keep the directing of winding worked better; the strands were binding together - not much, but enough to see the other cable fail first.
It may work better as a prop shaft instead of a cv joint, you can see how the cable wants to coil when you apply torque to it, I'd say you need a thicker cable. Would be fun if you try with just link chain
Heavy ratchet strap as CV shaft? If you leave it with just enough slack to bind up to the perfect length whenever torque is applied, that might just work out.
It's not the cable unwinding. You have twisted rope. What happens when you hold one end of a twisted rope, and then twist it in the direction that "tightens" the twist? It overtwists, and forms loops mid length, shortening the end to end length. As your axles begin to mid span loop, the shortening pulls them loose from the sockets you swaged them into. Running them opposite to the twist direction makes them longer, so they bite harder into the socket (which further loosens the swage joint). Eventually they loosen the swage enough, and pull loose. It's unavoidable with twist cordage (which is why you don't see it used as axles, lol)
There are cables for bidirectional torque transfer. They have alternately twisted layers. The end the socket still have to be crimped with enough force to deform the whole crimp into a solid. And it has to be more circular, hexagon, octagon, etc. This requires a socket wall thickness that is strong enough to contain that pressure. It still wouldn't work as driveshaft beyond a certain L/d ratio, and won't work beyond a certain RPM either, but with an outer casing it might.
When you go forward your tightening the wrap in turn shortening the “axle”. And the complete opposite for backing up. Double check the wrap direction it looks like one side is wrapped in the opposite direction. You can’t make them identical the wrap needs to be opposite. Not saying that’s what’s wrong that’s just what it appears like. One tightening and ones un wrapping.
Need a proper hydraulic crimp tool to keep the cable in the flange cup. Probably worth just welding the splines into the hubs so the cable length changing won't pop them out.
Wire twisted 1 way holds 1 way. Twist to the right and can be pulled tighter to the right. Twists to the left nd can be pulled to the left. Not the steering of the vehicle. Just the way the cable was made. Now if a style where both ends were welded properly to make steering arms, that would worn out.
A large diameter cable like that with high pressure hydraulic hose over it would probably work better as the hose has cross woven steel cables inside it.
Well ya can't win them all but if ya made some welds along the rope like the ends and possibly along the braids here and there .that should stop it from unraveling and twisting up .ya should give that a try .it might work ...weld up ends and weld braids about 3or 4inches back then some random welds here and there to stop braids from breaking ..what do ya got to lose ..anyways till next vid godbless and stay safe
I would've bet money this would work. I'm sure larger diameter cables would resist the twist imposed on them. But not really worth it. I'm surprised wire works so well on a small scale like RC vehicles drive shafts. As always, there's lots of knowledge involved in failure. Usually much more learned than if had just worked immediately.
You could get left layed and right layed cable. But the one wound to tighten in the forward direction had failures too so... I'd say cable as an option eliminated. 👍
Should have put them in there in a manner to where when you're driving forward the braid is tightening itself... That's easy to do on both sides just flip one the opposite direction....
I wonder why they didn't just spin one of the cables 180* around so they both wound the same direction forward and backwards. Also if they where to weld the wire from inside the pipe all the way across hence making a solid chunk of metal inside the pipe.
It’s popping because in one direction the cable is twisting tighter and shortening and then the other direction it’s trying to unwind itself and lengthening
@@dimitar4y I've been a mechanic my hole life and I know quite well why this didn't work. But these guys try all kinds of crazy, wild and fun things. So why not try a suggestion? Although welded or not a chain would be fun to watch. My prediction is if the chain doesn't snap it will coil up and possible (hopefully) do some awesome damage!
@@baleylavarta2573 as i said, want to see a normal chain wreak havoc. Welded chain would just be a crappy rod. who wants to see a rod? If it manages to bend/twist into a nice twisty balustrade that'd be interesting though
Could you guys Try to make the camshaft of an engine spin the same speed as the crankshaft (making the camshaft and crankshaft rotation be a 1:1 ratio from a 2:1) it should have a combustion on every rotation and it should make more power but i don't know if it's possible if it is possible it should in theory make twice as much power
Haven’t seen the video yet but I think two things are going to happen one it will work great in one direction and start to try and unwind in the other and when you get any speed up it is going to start to go out of balance because it will bend
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Make another set of driveshafts out of impact tool extensions and a swivel (universal joint), then durability test to their limits!
Haha that's an amazing suggestion!
@⛔LIVE CAM & [S]EX - CHECK MY LINK⛔ what in the ever living eff....lolololol
probably work quite well.
That's a cool idea, maybe even try it with different sized ones, 1/2 and 3/4 and maybe even bigger if they exist.
@@Scott00 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 , and 1" are comon in the United States. I own impact tools in 1/2 inch and up
It works fine in reverse because the cable is trying to untwist, which actually produces a force that stops it from slipping out
Whereas when going forward, the cables pull together, which produces a force that pulls it out of the socket
You guys always create fun content!
I recommend making a straightening sleeve/brace made out of pipe, or far thicker and tighter wound wire welded to the bezel of the hub ends, while better securing the shaft ends to the hubs to prevent the build up of spring tension and torsion to the rope.
This will solidly make the axle as rigid as possible on the ends, and to prevent the shafts from bending while retaining the horizontal flexibility of the metal rope. Well done nonetheless and I hope to see more!
My favorite channel. Just love the crazy ideas you guys come up with.
That was very interesting. Looking forward to your next project. Always enjoy your ideas.
POSSIBLE SOLUTION for next time...
From what I could see, you had 2 weak points.
Firstly, the one cable (drivers’ side) was tensioning or twisting up the wrong way. It needs to be the same direction as the driving force. Basically, flip the cable around so it will twist or wind up when you go forward. You can see the reverse of this happening when you go backwards...
Secondly, the crimping of the cables is a very weak point. I would take the cable ends and dip them in some boiling solder or something to seal up the ends. Then I would put 2 or 3 nuts and bolts right through the shaft or tube and cable. That should then give it the strength to hold in place and not disintegrate.
Also, I wouldn't use a round tube, maybe use a square tube and you can use 2 different sizes to interlock which should help with expanding of the shaft and cable.
At 1 point you can see the whole thing pulling out a few centimetres!
But try it and let's see if it can work better that way.
Flipping the cable wont reverse the twisting. It's like turning a bolt around, the threads still will still rotate the same direction. You need a wire rope that is twisted the opposite direction.
Can you make a Lada exhaust cook popcorn on the inside and fill up the inside of the car until popcorn falls out of the windows while driving? 😆
Like Norm McDonald did in Dirty Work 😂?
A valiant effort. Well done.
Try to put big electric generator on engine and connect it with two electric motors on rear wheels.
it could be really efficient
Top Gear did that already and they nearly kill Stig:)
@@joe125ful share link
I vote
… what a fucking AMAZING IDEA
It was a very very valiant effort Team Garage 54. Thanks for sharing this video with us. Have an awesome day or night. And thanks again to BMI Russian for all the time and work and effort to translate for us. Byes for now. See ya next video.
Always welcome!
I love these Ideas, and I love the G54 way of making these ideas work!
"We try hard - we fail hard"
Wire rope loosens when going forward and tightens up while reverse
Right hand regular lay non rotation resistant rope does, just order the right rope.
depending what side of car its on and direction of winding.
I've got a suggestion. Shorten the knuckles on a front wheel drive car for more steering angle. See if the axles can withstand the added angle and measure how much smaller the turning radius is. Once you test the stock axles, try modding them to see if they can take even more angle.
chris fix has done this to his drift mustang
@@steveholland1163 Thats on a rwd car. Most drift cars go this route. I was always curious to see if it can be done a fwd car, not bc of drifting, but to make smaller u turns.
@@babuji7363 I don't think you would get enough movement out of the cv joints
I guess part of the problem is when you weld the rope to the end pieces, you are only welding to most outer strands. Maybe it would be more successful if you could somehow weld across the entire diameter of the rope where it joins
Brazing
You could create quite a stir in town if you were to black out the windshield and all of the other windows on a Lada so that there is absolutely no way to see in or out of the car. Then mount several small cameras to video monitors inside the car allowing you to drive around Novosibirsk in a "Stealth-Drone-Lada." For this important project, please use the car you previously painted with blacker-than-the-dead-of-night-black paint!
Flexible cable drives need some form of mechanical support along the way to prevent them from twisting onto themselves. For the smallest stuff, that mid-span support is often your hand. For slightly more serious stuff, the drive cable is coaxial with a static outer sheath similar to bicycle cable jackets. The next rung above that is cable inside a pipe like some gas-powered gas trimmers do, though that would defeat the point of having a cable drive in place of CV axles.
12:46 Don't be disappointed because you win some and you loose some, either way its a win because we all learn whats goes or no goes, like a filler gage.
Possibly a center bearing in the middle of the “shaft”? And crimp ends on the wire then weld to a pipe? Love this stuff keep it up
I had the same thought.
Try put a steel tube over half the cables. Limiting the twist and probably get more time between breakages
I have not watched yet. But if you can lock both ends of it in. So when it twists it does not pull out of the diff or the hub yes. This will work. Now I will watch and see how it goes. If you have read this far I Hope You Are Having A Great Day And That You And Your Loved Ones Are Healthy And Safe!
There are cables that can transfer torque, but they generally need a sleeve exactly to prevent this sort of problem. Without a sleeve to force the cable to keep its length, it will just start coiling onto itself at its weakest point. In your case, the sleeve would have to be a solid pipe or several sections of wire, kinda like an armoured snake, but the fewer the better.. Only a small portion of the rope should be sleeveless, to allow for bending.
American fan here. Love your channel
Video suggestion! See how many codes you can possibly get an OBD2 car to throw at one time, while still remaining drivable. You could start with loosening the fuel cap and escalate to unhooking vacuum lines, tricking or unhooking sensors in the engine and transmission, sabotaging injectors and so forth. I think that would be entertaining.
A drain snake works the same as soon as you put to much pressure it wonts to buckle thanks for sharing 👍😀
a drain snake always spins in the same direction so no worries about the drive cable unwinding.
Interesting proof of concept exp[eriment. OK - but I do use for lower torque and high speed work, multispiral Hydraulic hose .... go try yourselves with suitable swaged ends to screw on to couplings. ... and there's more to it too ( TOP SECRET ). I've watched many of your videos - great stuff and thank you for you spending my time and effort on finding out at your expense. Keep up the good work - More people need to try things out to see and understand the simple ways of machines.
May we all one day be able to have the ability to experience each other's worlds in person as easily as clicking on you tube
I enjoy your channel. You fine gentlemen come up with some interesting automotive tests and challenges. On top of that you use cars I am not familiar with as I am from the USA, and that' makes for different content than I'm used to. You said you failed in this video, but I would disagree. You had a result, and have answered the question you set out to find. So I don't see it as a failure It's interesting to see what you fellows do and I look forward to more great content from you. God Bless, and be safe in your travels.
So a solution here is to stop the flex in the steel rope by adding a sleeve. The flex is causing huge forces a this in turn creates heat and stress which shortens the life of the steel rope. By adding a hollow sleeve this would reduce these forces by hopefully enough to at least have a test drive 🤔😉
Flip one of the cables so both of the cables are wrapping tighter in the forward motion it would make reverse miserable but it would go forward.
IT still would be a right turned piece
of rope
Without watching the rest of the video it looks like going forward is unwinding the cable and backing up us tightening it
suggestion/video idea:
Modify a car on the wheels like a train with a connection rod to connect the front and rear tires. So you have a cheap 4x4 . 😂
We all knew this would fail but we still clicked and watched anyway lol
i like how they put the cable in such a way that it was trying to unwind itself
Surprising results!!!
The 1961 - 1963 Pontiac Tempest had a 'rope drive'.
Really?? 🤔
@@zsombor_99 Yes, really! And they didn't work well. Go check it out yourself.
Suggestion: Tyres that go over the wheel instead of inside it. Cut off the two rims of the wheel and weld them to plain circular plates. You now have two separate disks that can be fitted inside each side of the tyre and the tyre can be pressurised to look like a ball. One of the metal sides will of course be fitted with something that fits to the car somehow. You essentially have a one rimmed wheel and a free-floating blank. Can the tyre support the car?
I always wondered if this would work. I guess only if it has a casing over it like a speedometer cable or a string trimmer does, but that wouldn’t really work in this situation either.
Nyet...I saw this one coming.
Fun as always, thank you.
Wish you the best during these times.
Torsion stiffness or in other words how much torque something can withstand is proportional to the 3rd power of the diameter IF it is one piece.
So, in this case: you have many small strands or wire, let's say 1mm. Let's say there are 100 of them. The strands don't interact with one another - as lead not if you load the cable with torsion in the opposite way the cable is wound*. Basically you have 100 times 1^3 = 100 of "torsion resistance".
Let's say the axle that was replaced here was 20mm in diameter. So the "torsion resistance" was 1 times 20^3 = 8000. This shows how important is it that you not only have mass or much steel, but it needs to work together the right way.
So, this was never going to work and the way the cable was attached to the hub was crude at best.
* the side where the torsion worked to keep the directing of winding worked better; the strands were binding together - not much, but enough to see the other cable fail first.
also the problem with variable length.
It may work better as a prop shaft instead of a cv joint, you can see how the cable wants to coil when you apply torque to it, I'd say you need a thicker cable. Would be fun if you try with just link chain
i see, the direction of the rope weave and if you going forwards or backwards determines if it binds up
Heavy ratchet strap as CV shaft? If you leave it with just enough slack to bind up to the perfect length whenever torque is applied, that might just work out.
It's not the cable unwinding. You have twisted rope. What happens when you hold one end of a twisted rope, and then twist it in the direction that "tightens" the twist? It overtwists, and forms loops mid length, shortening the end to end length. As your axles begin to mid span loop, the shortening pulls them loose from the sockets you swaged them into. Running them opposite to the twist direction makes them longer, so they bite harder into the socket (which further loosens the swage joint). Eventually they loosen the swage enough, and pull loose. It's unavoidable with twist cordage (which is why you don't see it used as axles, lol)
There are cables for bidirectional torque transfer. They have alternately twisted layers. The end the socket still have to be crimped with enough force to deform the whole crimp into a solid. And it has to be more circular, hexagon, octagon, etc. This requires a socket wall thickness that is strong enough to contain that pressure.
It still wouldn't work as driveshaft beyond a certain L/d ratio, and won't work beyond a certain RPM either, but with an outer casing it might.
A wire driveshaft would probably do the same thing.
When you go forward your tightening the wrap in turn shortening the “axle”. And the complete opposite for backing up. Double check the wrap direction it looks like one side is wrapped in the opposite direction. You can’t make them identical the wrap needs to be opposite. Not saying that’s what’s wrong that’s just what it appears like. One tightening and ones un wrapping.
Luxurious Driveshafts.
Lmfao!👌😂👍I had a feeling they where going to be bending like a pretzel 🥨 good one though!😂👍
I was so sure this was going to revolutionize the industry.
I remember when they used to advertise Lada Samaras in New Zealand. I've not seen any Lada of any type for a long time here
Melt the ends of the wire together so they are solid and try again. Or dip the end in molten steel and let it cool.
Use two pieces of square tubing that slide in and out of each other for your sliding connection
not everything can be a 107% success... still a cool video
Need a proper hydraulic crimp tool to keep the cable in the flange cup. Probably worth just welding the splines into the hubs so the cable length changing won't pop them out.
just wondering could you guys try running a lada with the gearbox mounted backwards so clutch is at the back of the gearbox
Love your content, luv frm india🇮🇳
Wire twisted 1 way holds 1 way. Twist to the right and can be pulled tighter to the right. Twists to the left nd can be pulled to the left. Not the steering of the vehicle. Just the way the cable was made. Now if a style where both ends were welded properly to make steering arms, that would worn out.
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
A large diameter cable like that with high pressure hydraulic hose over it would probably work better as the hose has cross woven steel cables inside it.
It worked one way and not the other because when you twist one way, you tighten the rope threads. The other way loosens them
That was a great try guys !
Well at least you tried twice to get them to work 👍🏻🔥🤘🏻
The problem is the twisted structure lengthens or shortens depending on whether you rotate in the direction of its original winding.
notification squad, Have a nice weekend!🔥🔥🔥
Well ya can't win them all but if ya made some welds along the rope like the ends and possibly along the braids here and there .that should stop it from unraveling and twisting up .ya should give that a try .it might work ...weld up ends and weld braids about 3or 4inches back then some random welds here and there to stop braids from breaking ..what do ya got to lose ..anyways till next vid godbless and stay safe
Good idea, i would also weld the end as solid as possible, maybe that would help. welding those braids together may help with the twisting.
You should have pinned & complete welded those ends then possibly a support pipe casing some how.
interested in the coats you have in winter?
This little experiment was a ( - )107% Success!
weld the rope braids in the grooves to solidify along the outside 1 in spaced wwelds staggred
I would've bet money this would work. I'm sure larger diameter cables would resist the twist imposed on them. But not really worth it. I'm surprised wire works so well on a small scale like RC vehicles drive shafts. As always, there's lots of knowledge involved in failure. Usually much more learned than if had just worked immediately.
A-Team strikes again 🚙
try using coil springs for drive axles...
You could get left layed and right layed cable. But the one wound to tighten in the forward direction had failures too so... I'd say cable as an option eliminated. 👍
Should have put them in there in a manner to where when you're driving forward the braid is tightening itself... That's easy to do on both sides just flip one the opposite direction....
If you wanted a flexible axle you would need to use conected u joints. To get the length you are looking for it would take like 6 per side.
you can even shield that inside a stationary wire housing, to route it around
slippery insulator cover, like in a pull wire housing, but rotating action
I wonder why they didn't just spin one of the cables 180* around so they both wound the same direction forward and backwards. Also if they where to weld the wire from inside the pipe all the way across hence making a solid chunk of metal inside the pipe.
I expect vibration at high speed
Could you of used cable clamps on each end wear the cable are welded in the pipe
Try using short coil springs as CV joints,
It’s popping because in one direction the cable is twisting tighter and shortening and then the other direction it’s trying to unwind itself and lengthening
Destroyer of Car Parts
Could you weld a bead or two around the cables?
5:30 "what is that noise?", the sound of failure..
Igor:No its nothing:)
What about rear-wheel drive shaft?
Add a rubber casing and you would have flexible PTO shafts
Take the cables and turn them the opposite way so when the tire turns the cable get tighter
You should try making axel shafts out of welded chain. Maybe a medium chain with all the links welded together.
You're failing to understand why this failed. It will be the same failure..
I want to see normal unwelded chain though that'd be wild.
@@dimitar4y I've been a mechanic my hole life and I know quite well why this didn't work. But these guys try all kinds of crazy, wild and fun things. So why not try a suggestion? Although welded or not a chain would be fun to watch. My prediction is if the chain doesn't snap it will coil up and possible (hopefully) do some awesome damage!
@@baleylavarta2573 as i said, want to see a normal chain wreak havoc. Welded chain would just be a crappy rod. who wants to see a rod? If it manages to bend/twist into a nice twisty balustrade that'd be interesting though
@@dimitar4y I suppose because the welded chain has the potential to work. But yeah a chain would be a great watch!
I couldn't stop laughing, died during his initial confusing and remem that he has no campov
might work for rear wheel drive axles.
I think the same problems can happen in much larger scale, but maybe worth the try.
Great video
So interresting!!!
lol, thats why CV joints are solid steel, how could you not know something was going to go wrong. Plus it could stuff your transmission.
you should be a university professor.😂 the students would be very curious and enjoy their lecture to see the experiment and R&D.❤ from India🇮🇳
Could you guys Try to make the camshaft of an engine spin the same speed as the crankshaft (making the camshaft and crankshaft rotation be a 1:1 ratio from a 2:1) it should have a combustion on every rotation and it should make more power but i don't know if it's possible if it is possible it should in theory make twice as much power
Didn't the Pontiac tempest in the early 60s use something like this to run the transaxle?
Torque tube
Yes and it failed miserably.
Haven’t seen the video yet but I think two things are going to happen one it will work great in one direction and start to try and unwind in the other and when you get any speed up it is going to start to go out of balance because it will bend
How about chain instead of cable?
Whats the reason for wrapping the shafts in wire?.. I thought maybe so it dont unwind in reverse. Ur channel is SWEET anyways
Love the reaction from Vladimir when something breaks and hé can t believe IT Just happend....