In mine's case the power drain problem was caused by damaged battery - voltage was fine, power consumption with car off and closed was fine as well. Problems stoped after battery replacement.
Damn that door work... pretty amazing to see. Good job pulling this together so that it gets a new lease on life. I'll be very interested to see the final word on the ICM business...
I'm crying. What a mess. Do you know if there is a way to replace the bulb behind the door lock switch on the door card? It all looks moulded into on and not fixable. Love your content BTW.
Thanks omg this is my problem. The battery always dying. My electric work except my radio. Don't cut your hand getting your rage out. I think I need a new transmission. My car acceleration won't go over 30 mph. I need some help ordering another one.
For the ICM, I did encounter the same problem and did similar like yours ! Finally I located what went wrong - - - it was a BAD fuse ( in the trunk fuse box ) ! I wonder if you'd check it . Regarding the unknown drainage of battery, it could be the battery cables turn bad as I experience quite a few times my NG 9-3 Arc had " Sudden Death " while driving. And my Saab mechanic spent 2 hours checking before finally located the problem !
I have seen many saabs with an overheated wire in that area, and a melted connector into the controller. Not sure if water caused or what (good guess), but that's why it has a new connector, and im sure a replaced blower controller. As long as your fuses & relays are good the controller will be bad. As I understand it they have a early version and a late version like you have in the video, I think the split is about 2008 but not sure. That's an un official personal observation as most parts houses list one (old version with actual wire loop resisters), and its not the one you need (the electronic version). Its just another item I look for and snag if I find one in good condition at the JY (because eSaab gets $272 for one, and they are back ordered). Blower Motor Regulator, Part Number: 13250114 & Superseded Part Numbers: 13123053
O-bus and P-bus checks with a tech2. Also using tech2's option to repeatedly ping a module on a bus is very handy for checking for broken wires and isolating where the break might be. On my 06 Aero basketcase it ended up being a blown fuse that powered one of the components. Replaced that, and the optical bus came back online. They are fun cars,but when something goes wrong, and goes unfixed, it can cascade into a pile of problems. Good example is a failing Throttlebody that when ignored....could take out the ECU. Ask me how I know.....lol
I literally pulled and checked every single fuse in trunk, dash and under hood, and reseated every relay and connection on those boards. Sometimes you just get tired of thinking....and just pull out the sledge....
Amazing job! My mechanic wanted not to honor my battery warranty after he installed it less then a year ago in my 9-3. He said there was a battery draw but couldn’t tell me what it was.
Usually I prefer to buy battery in auto parts store like Auto Zone .... they honor the warranty ( no questions asked ) as they just return the dead battery to supplier for another one !
Blows my mind what slobs there are out there. How can you wear out a car like this? Those window buttons were grotesque. Wouldn't give those types a box of rocks.
Yeah those door latch cables are a pain in ze ass. The plastic bracket that holds the cable in place was destroyed on my Aero, so I ended up drilling holes in the panel and zip tying it to the door 😂 And why does it seem like Aeros are always in worse shape than the Linears???
About the door lock, isn't that normal, to not be able to lock the door while it's open atleast the driver side door. My saab has it that way and some other non saabs aswell
Wait how is it that your door locks only go up or down when you push the button? If my car is locked and I push the unlock button, the locks all go up-down-up except for sometimes the driver or driver side rear door which may sometimes choose to go on leave without notice
Do your door locks just start going bananas on their own? I can be driving down the road and suddenly my locks start cycling. The fun part is when the alarm goes off as I am driving!
@@petercyprian3096 I have lock at driveoff turned on. If I wait to drive off until a few seconds after the idle has gone all the way down, it’s generally fine, but otherwise they’ll cycle 5-6 times before deciding that they’re good and locked. On another note, sometimes the driver or driver rear door locks won’t work (whether I activate them with the fob to lock or unlock the car or they auto lock when I drive off). My alarm has never gone off when driving but something is wrong with it and because of hearing stories like yours I’m afraid to mess with it. The red indicator light never turns on when I lock the car, but as best I can tell the alarm generally IS armed. Meaning if I unlock it with the physical key and open the door, the alarm will go off. if I lock the car and one of the doors decides not to lock and I then open the door to lock it manually, sometimes it sets off the alarm and other times doesn’t. So I don’t know what the issue is. I should probably start by cleaning out the lock modules before diving into the alarm system but I don’t know
@@vtk5 Yeah, I have read on other sites that a failing lock mech can cause a whole slew of issues. Mine does the same- sometimes the FOB will lock all the doors, sometimes just the passenger side, sometimes all but the driver door. One thing that I noticed (but cannot definitively prove) is that when I have my Shokz on, the car goes bananas. They run on Bluetooth 5.1, which did not exist when my 9-3 was made. When a bluetooth "advertises" it broadcasts over multiple channels. It is my suspicion that one of these channels is on a frequency that is triggering the lock and alarm. If I knew exactly which module is being affected, I would copper tape it to shield it from spurious frequencies. The only problem with that is when you factor in the wiring harness. The conductors in the harness can act as a antenna, piping the signal to the module. So far the best I have been able to do (and see good results) is to shut off the Shokz before getting near the car, get in the car and fire it up, THEN turn the Shokz back on. This process has been successful but it does not definitively prove that it is the Shokz causing the issue. I say this because the car does not always freak out when I do not execute the aforementioned process. It is enough to drive you bonkers.
In mine's case the power drain problem was caused by damaged battery - voltage was fine, power consumption with car off and closed was fine as well. Problems stoped after battery replacement.
Damn that door work... pretty amazing to see. Good job pulling this together so that it gets a new lease on life. I'll be very interested to see the final word on the ICM business...
Love your content 💗 thank you for the upload
never need to replace door locks in 25 years.. used to.. but then i learned how to fix them.. w/o removing anything.
I'm crying. What a mess. Do you know if there is a way to replace the bulb behind the door lock switch on the door card? It all looks moulded into on and not fixable. Love your content BTW.
Where to buy the pen ( touch up paint ) at 6:55 ???
Same what pen is it and what color code is on it
If you have another known good fuse box (under the hood), try that. That module inside of that box controls a whole slew of things.
Thanks omg this is my problem. The battery always dying. My electric work except my radio.
Don't cut your hand getting your rage out.
I think I need a new transmission. My car acceleration won't go over 30 mph. I need some help ordering another one.
For the ICM, I did encounter the same problem and did similar like yours ! Finally I located what went wrong - - - it was a BAD fuse ( in the trunk fuse box ) ! I wonder if you'd check it . Regarding the unknown drainage of battery, it could be the battery cables turn bad as I experience quite a few times my NG 9-3 Arc had " Sudden Death " while driving. And my Saab mechanic spent 2 hours checking before finally located the problem !
Great progress Jacob 👍👍👍
I have seen many saabs with an overheated wire in that area, and a melted connector into the controller. Not sure if water caused or what (good guess), but that's why it has a new connector, and im sure a replaced blower controller. As long as your fuses & relays are good the controller will be bad. As I understand it they have a early version and a late version like you have in the video, I think the split is about 2008 but not sure. That's an un official personal observation as most parts houses list one (old version with actual wire loop resisters), and its not the one you need (the electronic version).
Its just another item I look for and snag if I find one in good condition at the JY (because eSaab gets $272 for one, and they are back ordered).
Blower Motor Regulator, Part Number: 13250114 & Superseded Part Numbers: 13123053
O-bus and P-bus checks with a tech2. Also using tech2's option to repeatedly ping a module on a bus is very handy for checking for broken wires and isolating where the break might be. On my 06 Aero basketcase it ended up being a blown fuse that powered one of the components. Replaced that, and the optical bus came back online. They are fun cars,but when something goes wrong, and goes unfixed, it can cascade into a pile of problems. Good example is a failing Throttlebody that when ignored....could take out the ECU. Ask me how I know.....lol
I literally pulled and checked every single fuse in trunk, dash and under hood, and reseated every relay and connection on those boards. Sometimes you just get tired of thinking....and just pull out the sledge....
As for the ac not blowing any air the blower motor is probably seized up
Yep, or the motor resistor is fried. But probably more than likely the blower motor if the cabin air filter hasn’t been sealed properly.
How to replace the light switch?
Amazing job! My mechanic wanted not to honor my battery warranty after he installed it less then a year ago in my 9-3. He said there was a battery draw but couldn’t tell me what it was.
Usually I prefer to buy battery in auto parts store like Auto Zone .... they honor the warranty ( no questions asked ) as they just return the dead battery to supplier for another one !
@@lorddiablo8575 Thanks. I would think the mechanic could do the same.
Blows my mind what slobs there are out there. How can you wear out a car like this? Those window buttons were grotesque. Wouldn't give those types a box of rocks.
Looking good 👍
Yeah those door latch cables are a pain in ze ass. The plastic bracket that holds the cable in place was destroyed on my Aero, so I ended up drilling holes in the panel and zip tying it to the door 😂
And why does it seem like Aeros are always in worse shape than the Linears???
Where can I get ahold of some ice block taillights for my 9-3 not looking to pay hundreds on esaabparts
Junkyard or Facebook marketplace
Do you know if it possible to use a aftermarket gear knob on a automatic sabb 93 looking but can't anymore saying anything
I'd highly encourage sticking with OEM! brands out there make leather ones, but anything "aftermarket" won't function right
About the door lock, isn't that normal, to not be able to lock the door while it's open atleast the driver side door. My saab has it that way and some other non saabs aswell
my door locks have been a pain in the ass, but now my power windows don't work properly
Wait how is it that your door locks only go up or down when you push the button? If my car is locked and I push the unlock button, the locks all go up-down-up except for sometimes the driver or driver side rear door which may sometimes choose to go on leave without notice
Do your door locks just start going bananas on their own? I can be driving down the road and suddenly my locks start cycling. The fun part is when the alarm goes off as I am driving!
@@petercyprian3096 I have lock at driveoff turned on. If I wait to drive off until a few seconds after the idle has gone all the way down, it’s generally fine, but otherwise they’ll cycle 5-6 times before deciding that they’re good and locked. On another note, sometimes the driver or driver rear door locks won’t work (whether I activate them with the fob to lock or unlock the car or they auto lock when I drive off). My alarm has never gone off when driving but something is wrong with it and because of hearing stories like yours I’m afraid to mess with it. The red indicator light never turns on when I lock the car, but as best I can tell the alarm generally IS armed. Meaning if I unlock it with the physical key and open the door, the alarm will go off. if I lock the car and one of the doors decides not to lock and I then open the door to lock it manually, sometimes it sets off the alarm and other times doesn’t. So I don’t know what the issue is. I should probably start by cleaning out the lock modules before diving into the alarm system but I don’t know
Also no codes for any of that business with Tech2 🤦♂️
@@vtk5 Yeah, I have read on other sites that a failing lock mech can cause a whole slew of issues. Mine does the same- sometimes the FOB will lock all the doors, sometimes just the passenger side, sometimes all but the driver door. One thing that I noticed (but cannot definitively prove) is that when I have my Shokz on, the car goes bananas. They run on Bluetooth 5.1, which did not exist when my 9-3 was made. When a bluetooth "advertises" it broadcasts over multiple channels. It is my suspicion that one of these channels is on a frequency that is triggering the lock and alarm. If I knew exactly which module is being affected, I would copper tape it to shield it from spurious frequencies. The only problem with that is when you factor in the wiring harness. The conductors in the harness can act as a antenna, piping the signal to the module. So far the best I have been able to do (and see good results) is to shut off the Shokz before getting near the car, get in the car and fire it up, THEN turn the Shokz back on. This process has been successful but it does not definitively prove that it is the Shokz causing the issue. I say this because the car does not always freak out when I do not execute the aforementioned process. It is enough to drive you bonkers.
i own a few myself, you wouldnt happen to have any shift linkages for sale would ya? lol
It's the door that won't open there's ur battery drawn
🙌🙌🙌
Hi do you have some guy who can help me fix my saabs be I just junk them
what region u in?
Are you getting paid to do this? Because you definitely should be.
min saab har akkurat det samme problemer, saab das auto
🫡👍🇸🇪