HOT ROD PREDATOR FIRST START PLUS FAILURE
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- Sorry I had no content last week, my employer decided to see how many hours I could work in 8 days(Turns out to be about 107). I finally got footage of the first start of my 212 Predator edited and here it is. This is a real first start, I did not start it off camera to do a pre-show shake down, and it shows. It does an on-air shake down as the hardware tried to fly off, engine tries to vibrate off the go kart, and the torque converter gave it up(Must be all that mad power I am bringing) stalling the motor out.
Chuck, that is absolutely the most high tech spark plug gapping tool I have ever seen. Engine sounds great!
My daily is a Fiesta ST and they are really finicky about plug gap plus it was to cool to not get, like those tapered piston installers. :-)
Thanks, hopefully the next video I will have all these little issues knocked out and it will be ready to go(Except for brakes, seat, floor pan, redoing the steering, paint, but except for that it is nearly done)
I love your videos! Things happen to all of us and you make it apparent, or edit out anything! Love it!
It's alive!
Next weeks episode I accidentally blow it up
juggernaut clutch is always good
I just noticed your fuel tank. That’s a nice piece.
Especially for 54 bucks. You can get it in black and 1 liter too.
Here is the link(I don't get any money)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08PCY3W7D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Looks great
Looks awesome man
Thanks, this has been a lot of fun trying to get some power out of it but also trying to have a cool look
Yes go heavy with the Teflon tape
Nice. My first thought is that you have a lathe and can make you own spacers for the drive pully so the belt doesn't climb too far into the overdrive position. The spacer would go onto the fixed sheeve first, then the bushing. Or better yet, find a bronze bushing to make your own.
If I had a lathe that's the first thing I would make with it. The overdrive function has always been an annoyance from a performance perspective. The "solution" has been the Juggernaut and Tork Zilla drivers. But with the right sized spacer there's no need to spend $90 on those drivers.
The problem with just a spacer is that it needs to fit well on the fixed sheeves hub and handle the belt during idling. An ideal solution would be a properly sized caged needle bearing for a spacer.
Also. The small blocks take 16oz. I usually measure out 16oz and dump it in without even checking with the stick cause I know it's correct. If you do check the oil with the stick the engine needs to be level.
I was thinking about doing a spacer because the sheave will go all the way to the flat plate if you spin it fast enough. One problem is the torque converter really was not intended to work on a motor spinning over 6000rpm.
The oil thing was mostly from using a long funnel and when I saw the engine nearly full there was still a couple of ounces in the funnel.
@@WhatIsTheWheel That's another thing. A lot of guys (minibikes) with stock TAVs never see 6K RPM, even with well built 7,500 RPM engines. They're just not geared for it with some not getting past 4500 RPM. Their fix is a Juggernaut with it's 1.5:1 or so gearing after the belt shift.
My minibike has a stock TAV and 6.6:1 gearing with a 19" tire. My belt shift under full throttle starts around 4400 RPM and the bike eventually tops out around 5K RPM. You'll see what you have when you put your kart under load.
@@Deucealive75 This thing spins so free, I don't plan on hitting this rpm because I want it to last, but under no load it will hit nearly 9000 rpm.
I really had to low rpm garter springs in it. I have some for 3300 rpm but I may be doing something like the Juggernaut because The clutch got damaged
Chuck, you might need to replace the TC cover plate with a thicker metal. It deforms quite a bit when you rev up the engine (21:50). May become a clearance problem over time. It looks like the current cover plate is aluminum. Nice sounding engine my friend.
The belt guard? Yeah, that thing is all over the place when it gets in its harmonic range. I am going to figure something out for that. Maybe thicker, maybe roll the edge, maybe support it with something.
I do love the sound, thanks
I generally run the same gap on the plug as the coil to flywheel gap I haven't seen any kind of problem by doing that
Your reving to high for stock type driver. After removing governor you need upgraded driver