This is clear well done, mine was used; 2:55 after rebuilding with Ultracal (gas tank resurfacer) that long center stem it still rocks. Almost all the C clip outer surface was eaten!
LMAO, thanks for posting, I have a Ezgo TXT gas with a Polaris 244 sled engine and I was looking for some information being the primary and secondary clutching are all Comet clutches on the Ezgo and the Polaris. So yes sir have the same secondary as you do, which took 3 nights work with a welded in puller I had to make because the Ezgo uses a splines shaft similar to a Polaris but bigger and more splines to rot together. I took a 2" long threaded nut 5/8" I.D. threads and welded that to the 1/4" or so of steel around the bolt hole of the secondary pulley. Using a Chrome moly 20" threaded rod welded a couple regular grade 8 nuts to that and made a puller that threads into the pulley hole and pushes against the transmission input shaft..... Was the most difficult thing I've ever had to go through, 3 nights of a couple thousandths at a time inbetween hammering away on the nut of the puller! But once I got it off and apart I found out my buttons were wasted down to the bolt heads and it ate up my Helix ramps. Just ordered a new set of buttons and a much heavier spring to help it keep the Polaris engine in its power band rather than instantly opening up from the excess torque and power of the sled/Ezgo hybrid engine I have in it. Ezgo and Polaris use Fuji Industries to build their engines and the parts are interchangeable. I have a Ezgo block and crank throws with a Hot Rods Polaris 250 rod, pin and bearings. A cylinder jug off a 488 sled engine so it's a 244 and a Polaris piston and head. It's fan cooled and fits under the Ezgo shrouding. Running a Polaris ATV full exhaust with an expansion pipe and muffler so it's not so loud like a sled is. BUT I'm ready to assemble the secondary and I had to clock it, thanks for your help, I took it apart and wasn't really paying attention to which way I had to clock it and how much? So even though it's not a golf cart, you have helped others out that don't have a Polaris atv so to that I thank you very very much. It's Nearly impossible to find anything for technical information on these golf carts besides morons bolting on new parts, not a thing about how to remove, disassemble and reassemble the driven clutch on these on the internet. So it definitely helps a lot! Thanks again brother!
Best suggestion to get off a drivin clutch that won't budge? Mine won't pop off like the one in this video and I'm wondering if I should use a puller or not. Open to suggestions
Your videos they’re very informative and very straight to the point hey do you happen to have any on that explore doing the change either adjusting the chain maintenance on the chain you know the front and rear chain drive
I know this is an older video but I have a serious question on Polaris secondary clutches. Will the secondary from an xplorer work on a sportsman 500? Or even a scrambler? I’m looking to pick up a 2006 500 h.o that has a damaged secondary and if I can save myself a few bucks by buying one off another bike it would be great.
I have a 2004 Sportsman 500 H.O. When plowing snow sometimes it will stall out. When I turn the key to start, the machine moves as it is locked in LOW. It will not let me shift it out of low. I then take a tow strap and pull it backwards a bit and I am able to shift it into NEUTRAL and start the motor. A buddy is telling me that my secondary clutch needs rebuild or replace. What do you think?
If the belt is dragging on the clutches then it will be hard to shift. The discs could be getting stuck on the belt when the motor stalls out. Could be worn out parts inside. They are cheap to buy and not too hard to install.
I have a polaris 400 2 stroke. When driving it has low top speed but a good amount of take off. High speed around 30 mph. I drove it without the clutch cover and saw the belt doesn't come all the way foward on the drive clutch. Probably around an inch and a half from the top. I was wondering what the stock driven spring settings should be because mine were both 2-2 as well.
There are 2 clutches, the drive clutch is the front one off the engine and the driven clutch is the rear one on the transmission. My video focuses on that one. Where does the belt sit when it is not running? Belt should stick 1/16 inch above the driven (rear) clutch plates as shown. If it is below and inside the plates then first measure the width of the belt, it could be below spec which is mentioned in the video. If belt is thick enough then remove shims from driven clutch as demo in video but always leave 1 shim.
Maybe check the real torque specs before telling others to use them, you put 40 ft lbs for the secondary clutch torque spec but the 40 is for the primary and the secondary is 15 ft lbs and I ended up breaking a bolt off in my transmission because of your lack of care and ability to be clear on the specs. In the future, if you are going to list the torque spec of something please put the RIGHT spec for the part to save everyone from the trouble.
What should I check if my belt is flipping over i originaly blew my belt on my 05 scrambler 500 it was a Polaris belt and then I bought two new no name belt and they keep flipping any ideas why ? Thanks
Flipping? Like the part with the teeth ends up on the outside? I have no idea. I would try an OEM belt and see if it does that. Or take it to a mechanic.
Hi maker max. I have a polaris xplorer. When I put it in gear if I don't give it gas right away it stalls. I assume the belt is too tight. What do you think I should check?
With the cover off the clutch and it idling, the belt should not be moving. If the belt is moving at idle then either your idle is too high or the belt is too tight.
There are 2 clutches on the Polaris. The main one is on the front attached to the engine. The second one is the rear one and attached to the transmission called the driven clutch. I believe this is what you are asking.
This is clear well done, mine was used; 2:55 after rebuilding with Ultracal (gas tank resurfacer) that long center stem it still rocks. Almost all the C clip outer surface was eaten!
Great job, will be doing a rebuild on my scondary after watching this!
LMAO, thanks for posting, I have a Ezgo TXT gas with a Polaris 244 sled engine and I was looking for some information being the primary and secondary clutching are all Comet clutches on the Ezgo and the Polaris. So yes sir have the same secondary as you do, which took 3 nights work with a welded in puller I had to make because the Ezgo uses a splines shaft similar to a Polaris but bigger and more splines to rot together. I took a 2" long threaded nut 5/8" I.D. threads and welded that to the 1/4" or so of steel around the bolt hole of the secondary pulley. Using a Chrome moly 20" threaded rod welded a couple regular grade 8 nuts to that and made a puller that threads into the pulley hole and pushes against the transmission input shaft..... Was the most difficult thing I've ever had to go through, 3 nights of a couple thousandths at a time inbetween hammering away on the nut of the puller! But once I got it off and apart I found out my buttons were wasted down to the bolt heads and it ate up my Helix ramps. Just ordered a new set of buttons and a much heavier spring to help it keep the Polaris engine in its power band rather than instantly opening up from the excess torque and power of the sled/Ezgo hybrid engine I have in it. Ezgo and Polaris use Fuji Industries to build their engines and the parts are interchangeable. I have a Ezgo block and crank throws with a Hot Rods Polaris 250 rod, pin and bearings. A cylinder jug off a 488 sled engine so it's a 244 and a Polaris piston and head. It's fan cooled and fits under the Ezgo shrouding. Running a Polaris ATV full exhaust with an expansion pipe and muffler so it's not so loud like a sled is. BUT I'm ready to assemble the secondary and I had to clock it, thanks for your help, I took it apart and wasn't really paying attention to which way I had to clock it and how much? So even though it's not a golf cart, you have helped others out that don't have a Polaris atv so to that I thank you very very much. It's Nearly impossible to find anything for technical information on these golf carts besides morons bolting on new parts, not a thing about how to remove, disassemble and reassemble the driven clutch on these on the internet. So it definitely helps a lot! Thanks again brother!
would you happen to know how to tighten the belt of an 08’ polaris scrambler 500 4x4?
Best suggestion to get off a drivin clutch that won't budge? Mine won't pop off like the one in this video and I'm wondering if I should use a puller or not. Open to suggestions
After belt change my scrambler is hard to come in and out of gear and it has some squeeling help please
Your videos they’re very informative and very straight to the point hey do you happen to have any on that explore doing the change either adjusting the chain maintenance on the chain you know the front and rear chain drive
I have videos on adjusting the rear chain. I do not have videos on the front or middle but it is a similar procedure just really hard to get to those.
Hi! Hiw much play is ok? 1,5mm is ok or not?
I think everything is good but when i put the clutch back together theres alot of tension.
Great video! Helped me out alot..thank you
Muchas gracias, desde México🇲🇽🌮🌯
I know this is an older video but I have a serious question on Polaris secondary clutches.
Will the secondary from an xplorer work on a sportsman 500? Or even a scrambler? I’m looking to pick up a 2006 500 h.o that has a damaged secondary and if I can save myself a few bucks by buying one off another bike it would be great.
I am not that familiar with the Polaris line outside of my model to answer this question. I hope you find an answer on the internet.
I have a 2004 Sportsman 500 H.O. When plowing snow sometimes it will stall out. When I turn the key to start, the machine moves as it is locked in LOW. It will not let me shift it out of low. I then take a tow strap and pull it backwards a bit and I am able to shift it into NEUTRAL and start the motor. A buddy is telling me that my secondary clutch needs rebuild or replace. What do you think?
If the belt is dragging on the clutches then it will be hard to shift. The discs could be getting stuck on the belt when the motor stalls out. Could be worn out parts inside. They are cheap to buy and not too hard to install.
I have a polaris 400 2 stroke. When driving it has low top speed but a good amount of take off. High speed around 30 mph. I drove it without the clutch cover and saw the belt doesn't come all the way foward on the drive clutch. Probably around an inch and a half from the top. I was wondering what the stock driven spring settings should be because mine were both 2-2 as well.
There are 2 clutches, the drive clutch is the front one off the engine and the driven clutch is the rear one on the transmission. My video focuses on that one. Where does the belt sit when it is not running? Belt should stick 1/16 inch above the driven (rear) clutch plates as shown. If it is below and inside the plates then first measure the width of the belt, it could be below spec which is mentioned in the video. If belt is thick enough then remove shims from driven clutch as demo in video but always leave 1 shim.
Maybe check the real torque specs before telling others to use them, you put 40 ft lbs for the secondary clutch torque spec but the 40 is for the primary and the secondary is 15 ft lbs and I ended up breaking a bolt off in my transmission because of your lack of care and ability to be clear on the specs. In the future, if you are going to list the torque spec of something please put the RIGHT spec for the part to save everyone from the trouble.
What should I check if my belt is flipping over i originaly blew my belt on my 05 scrambler 500 it was a Polaris belt and then I bought two new no name belt and they keep flipping any ideas why ? Thanks
Flipping? Like the part with the teeth ends up on the outside? I have no idea. I would try an OEM belt and see if it does that. Or take it to a mechanic.
Amazing video
Glad it was helpful. It seemed very challenging at first, but it is easy to do.
Hi maker max. I have a polaris xplorer. When I put it in gear if I don't give it gas right away it stalls. I assume the belt is too tight. What do you think I should check?
With the cover off the clutch and it idling, the belt should not be moving. If the belt is moving at idle then either your idle is too high or the belt is too tight.
When people refer to the helix in the secondary, what exactly does that mean ?
There are 2 clutches on the Polaris. The main one is on the front attached to the engine. The second one is the rear one and attached to the transmission called the driven clutch. I believe this is what you are asking.
Is This how you tighten up the belt up ?
Yes this is how. Make sure your belt is within specs on the width.
I literally cant get it back on the shaft all the way. im crying lol
If you still haven’t got it back on you have to hold the shaft and wiggle the clutch on there
@@daltonsergent2193 thanks yeah, wowo, it was hard getting it back on. Yup, the wiggling thing worked