Good tutorial ! Working outside like that in full sun, makes it difficult to see the heat of the metal. If you dont have a roof, do the forge welding in the evening when the light levels fall.This is especially critical, for doing a forge weld. Thas the reason smithys are usually dark, and with only north facing windows. 5160 scales off a lot, so before doing a forge weld, I would clean the area to be welded bright with the angle grinder, and flux it before it gets to an oxidising heat. Cleanliness, is next to Godliness when welding steel. 5160 is an oil hardening steel, quench in warm oil, temper at 385 F. L-6 (the saw blade) has about the same heat treatment curve..
Great tip! I appreciate the insight, and technical information. Glad to get some good definitive information on the subject. Thank you for the comment.
Try 1018 mild steel for the body and leaf spring 5160 for the bit, I've had good results with this, though it takes a bit more heat to get the mild steel to weld to itself before the bit. I've done a few with A36 mild steel and haven't had good results, it's re-run steel and no telling what's in it, some things in some pieces of A36 don't like to forge weld.
Fairly straight forward. Thanks for the video. Good lookin weapon btw and I have to say I dig the hell out of that monster heavy duty vise. That has got to be a monster to lug around. Great work.
Like Lee Malco said in the comments, the steel was not hot enough. A good way to know if it is hot enough, is to swing the steel at the ground and if flux comes off, it is hot enough.You want a bright yellow, almost white heat.
You need to make sure your material is at a high enough heat to forge weld. Dont go too hot though that will cause a lost of carbon content in the steel
Looked good m8y you seemed to be shaping the axe while not hot enough to be mailable perhaps it started coming apart slightly by causing it to fracture rather than bind together need to have a go myself thanks for showing us ant from Wales UK
Nice, Questions about the leg vise stand: just a pipe on a plate? Stuck in the ground? How well do you like it? Seen it wobble a bit, is that hard to deal with?
hey I have been blacksmithing for about 8 years. I have found that certain steels just aren't very compatible. they have different grain structure, welding temps, etc... but that still is a nice hatchet.
I agree with skipping the saw blade insert. Leaf spring can be hardened to something like a 50 Rockwell hardness. Use a thicker spring, or upset the blade portion and use the horn to form the beard of the axe. I am working one now from a full size pickup truck sping, and it is kicking my butt..lol
Leaf spring doesn't like to weld to itself... I couldn't tell if your insert reached all the way from bit to eye, but anywhere it wasn't sandwiched, the spring wont want to weld... I use an oversized thin insert to make sure I get a good weld
Really good forge work. I do not understand why you used circular saw steel as a bit insert though,5160 should be fine on its own. I am no expert though so if I am wrong then I learned something new. As far as your craftsmanship and abilities I hope I get skilled enough to forged axes, hatches and other woodworking tools. Just making simple knives and carving knives for now.
Im very interesting in watching this kind of videos of forging and heat treating all kinds of steels. My question is whats the powder you used for the welding part of the process. thanks
kool vid man =] did you grind (clean up) the surfaces before you welded them? also was the metal fuming?? maybe make sure of those things for next time, and hopefully it'll help you to better your forge welds! =]
My knowledge on steel isn't the greatest, but couldn't you have skipped the step of the saw blade insert? I've seen some people use leaf spring as the edge insert. Either way tho its a good looking axe, I hope to get to that point where i can make my own hatchet or axe head. (edit) just read your info on the video. silly me XD
The trickiest part is really just the forge-welding process, and even still, it isn't that tricky. So long as you have access to a stick / MIG welder to tack the back part near the eye, your weld should hold just fine. It's a little difficult to get the steel near the eye up to welding temperature, which is why I think the weld was trying to split there, not to mention that it is mechanically disadvantaged for staying together.
while a lot of leaf springs are good for an edge, in have used one that seemed to be the same size as the one he has and it wasn't the typical 5160 that I was used to finding in leaf springs, might have been the same case here meaning he would need a better steel for the edge
forgive me for saying this, but isn't that a bit of overkill for the steel insert for the edge? Most axes and hatchets have a high carbon insert because the bulk of the axes and hatchet heads are made from mild steel. Leaf Spring steel is all high carbon, heat treatable tool steels. It should not be necessary to put an edge steel insert. The handle insert hole can be shaped like what you did. The fold over can be placed flat to the axehead face and forge welded with a forge flux, with the joint piece of steel being shorter than the edge piece so that a single edge is established. Then the edge of the steel can be forge shaped into the axehead and the bevel established at that time. once done, it can be finished off by grinding... no need for an edge insert.
I dont watching all your videos, i only find this one when i searching smth on the youtube, so i have a one fast question: What coal did you used on this vid ? # Im from Poland, sory for my engilsh, im still learning about all grammar :)
Your English alot better than my Spanish, learning a foreign language isn't easy, and I've heard that English is the hardest to learn as a second language, you're doing great!!!
It is called a post vice or leg vice. While I have never seen one used quiet the way he did (looks like he just drove it in the ground?). Usually, they are mounted to a stump or bench, the "leg or post" is placed on some sort of footer. These type of blacksmith vices have a quick thread for fast setting, and the hammering forces are transfered to the ground and not the vice body. Hope that helps
you're supposed to keep the metal much hotter then you did when you welded it, I think I heard that from the dirty Smith show. Anyways it looks alright.
Thinking maybe it didn't get hot enough to weld? Read Jim Hrisoulas' book and some others and the consensus seems to be that to get a good forge weld the surface of the metal should be in the yellow range of iridescence and sparking (because the surface is molten). Idk man, it's cool looking, but like you said, the saw blade was probably unnecessary as 5160 has enough carbon to hold an axe/tomahawk type edge.
I agree, that simply wasn't hot enough. You should see sparks coming off the steel. Not too much, mind you, because you'll cook off too much carbon if you aren't careful. Still, if you're going to use an insert, get a piece of O1, and it mates well with 5160, since metallurgically they're rather similar.
Don't join the to pieces together in the vice before Your ready to fully forge together just get it closer and before shutting brush the place f the weld as much as possible and add your borax put that in the forge and then close the gap
No, that is not the case. You need to ease into it, as a hard hit can cause the front of the bit to rear up. Once the weld is set, then you can go to town.
+Stan Tilton I AGREE with Stan!! Without a guard, you are just about guaranteed a trip to the ER one day. Google "angle grinder injuries" to see what happens when a disk explodes on you.
Good tutorial ! Working outside like that in full sun, makes it difficult to see the heat of the metal. If you dont have a roof, do the forge welding in the evening when the light levels fall.This is especially critical, for doing a forge weld. Thas the reason smithys are usually dark, and with only north facing windows. 5160 scales off a lot, so before doing a forge weld, I would clean the area to be welded bright with the angle grinder, and flux it before it gets to an oxidising heat. Cleanliness, is next to Godliness when welding steel. 5160 is an oil hardening steel, quench in warm oil, temper at 385 F. L-6 (the saw blade) has about the same heat treatment curve..
Great tip! I appreciate the insight, and technical information. Glad to get some good definitive information on the subject. Thank you for the comment.
I found this extremely useful sir! Thank you for the input!
Try 1018 mild steel for the body and leaf spring 5160 for the bit, I've had good results with this, though it takes a bit more heat to get the mild steel to weld to itself before the bit. I've done a few with A36 mild steel and haven't had good results, it's re-run steel and no telling what's in it, some things in some pieces of A36 don't like to forge weld.
Fairly straight forward. Thanks for the video. Good lookin weapon btw and I have to say I dig the hell out of that monster heavy duty vise. That has got to be a monster to lug around. Great work.
Cool video dude. I've got some leaf Spring material and a customer wants an axe so this will be my next video project.
Excellent video; forge welding leaf spring isn't east, but you did very well, and you've got a nice touch with the hammer. More videos, please.
Like Lee Malco said in the comments, the steel was not hot enough. A good way to know if it is hot enough, is to swing the steel at the ground and if flux comes off, it is hot enough.You want a bright yellow, almost white heat.
He's doing it in direct sunlight so the colors won't show up as they would if he was in a shaded area.
A magnet also works
no a magnet is for checking for critical temp. forge welding temp and critical temp are different@@clintmosley4393
Great video. I've burned through 4 leaf springs but can't seem to get a weld to stick even with borax. Any tips?
+Wes King Make the body out of mild bar stock and forge weld a piece of spring steel for the bit.
You need to make sure your material is at a high enough heat to forge weld. Dont go too hot though that will cause a lost of carbon content in the steel
Looked good m8y you seemed to be shaping the axe while not hot enough to be mailable perhaps it started coming apart slightly by causing it to fracture rather than bind together need to have a go myself thanks for showing us ant from Wales UK
Nice, Questions about the leg vise stand: just a pipe on a plate? Stuck in the ground? How well do you like it? Seen it wobble a bit, is that hard to deal with?
Did ya put the saw blade in?
Apparently. Did you heat the saw blade to critical and let it cool slow?
Looked great.
hey I have been blacksmithing for about 8 years. I have found that certain steels just aren't very compatible. they have different grain structure, welding temps, etc... but that still is a nice hatchet.
Leaf spring from what I have read is 5160, or something comparable. The trouble welding could come from the high amount of chromium found in 5160.
I agree with skipping the saw blade insert. Leaf spring can be hardened to something like a 50 Rockwell hardness. Use a thicker spring, or upset the blade portion and use the horn to form the beard of the axe. I am working one now from a full size pickup truck sping, and it is kicking my butt..lol
Leaf spring, like 5160, can be hardened way beyond Rockwell 50. I routinely get it to low 60s before tempering for my knives.
I get broken leaf springs from a trailer shop nearby for free, they work great! Smaller than pickup truck springs!
Good clean work. Maybe I'll try a hatchet someday.
Leaf spring doesn't like to weld to itself... I couldn't tell if your insert reached all the way from bit to eye, but anywhere it wasn't sandwiched, the spring wont want to weld... I use an oversized thin insert to make sure I get a good weld
Really good forge work. I do not understand why you used circular saw steel as a bit insert though,5160 should be fine on its own. I am no expert though so if I am wrong then I learned something new. As far as your craftsmanship and abilities I hope I get skilled enough to forged axes, hatches and other woodworking tools. Just making simple knives and carving knives for now.
Lovely Peter wright you have there, what's the weight?
Have you ever posted the plans for your forge? I really would like to build one like it.
I have not, but I have done an overview of my forge. You can find it on my channel, and I believe it is called Overview of the Forge.
Mighty fine lookin' anvil, man.
Hi, maybe you didn't use enough flux at that point during the welding process ? Nice video and nice forge you got there. Thanks è-!
hey i think you did one hell of a job even tho it didnt full wield it'll still last longer than anything from walmart
Thank you.
Im very interesting in watching this kind of videos of forging and heat treating all kinds of steels. My question is whats the powder you used for the welding part of the process. thanks
borax
kool vid man =] did you grind (clean up) the surfaces before you welded them? also was the metal fuming?? maybe make sure of those things for next time, and hopefully it'll help you to better your forge welds! =]
hello.can i ask, you use the motor oil for the harder metal after finish?
what did you use to flux the weld? what is that powder called and where can i gewt it?
My knowledge on steel isn't the greatest, but couldn't you have skipped the step of the saw blade insert? I've seen some people use leaf spring as the edge insert. Either way tho its a good looking axe, I hope to get to that point where i can make my own hatchet or axe head.
(edit) just read your info on the video. silly me XD
The trickiest part is really just the forge-welding process, and even still, it isn't that tricky. So long as you have access to a stick / MIG welder to tack the back part near the eye, your weld should hold just fine. It's a little difficult to get the steel near the eye up to welding temperature, which is why I think the weld was trying to split there, not to mention that it is mechanically disadvantaged for staying together.
while a lot of leaf springs are good for an edge, in have used one that seemed to be the same size as the one he has and it wasn't the typical 5160 that I was used to finding in leaf springs, might have been the same case here meaning he would need a better steel for the edge
All that plus 5160 is not fond of forge welding to its self
I should try making a hatchet like this, it doesent even seem that difficult, but i would make the blade shorter
Tomaso Scalzo you have an anvil and a forge?
forgive me for saying this, but isn't that a bit of overkill for the steel insert for the edge? Most axes and hatchets have a high carbon insert because the bulk of the axes and hatchet heads are made from mild steel. Leaf Spring steel is all high carbon, heat treatable tool steels. It should not be necessary to put an edge steel insert.
The handle insert hole can be shaped like what you did. The fold over can be placed flat to the axehead face and forge welded with a forge flux, with the joint piece of steel being shorter than the edge piece so that a single edge is established. Then the edge of the steel can be forge shaped into the axehead and the bevel established at that time. once done, it can be finished off by grinding... no need for an edge insert.
More heat , a clean fire too put the bit right in the middle of the heat
hell of a job, try putting flux between the pieces then mash them together. that what my dad does.
I dont watching all your videos, i only find this one when i searching smth on the youtube, so i have a one fast question:
What coal did you used on this vid ?
# Im from Poland, sory for my engilsh, im still learning about all grammar :)
Low Sulfur Blacksmith's coal. I believe it is bituminous.
Thanks :)
Your English alot better than my Spanish, learning a foreign language isn't easy, and I've heard that English is the hardest to learn as a second language, you're doing great!!!
What kind of vice is that and where could i find one?
It is called a post vice or leg vice. While I have never seen one used quiet the way he did (looks like he just drove it in the ground?).
Usually, they are mounted to a stump or bench, the "leg or post" is placed on some sort of footer. These type of blacksmith vices have a quick thread for fast setting, and the hammering forces are transfered to the ground and not the vice body. Hope that helps
My guess why it didn't forged welded would be that the saw blade metal alredy was heattreated if that make sence
you're supposed to keep the metal much hotter then you did when you welded it, I think I heard that from the dirty Smith show. Anyways it looks alright.
Thinking maybe it didn't get hot enough to weld? Read Jim Hrisoulas' book and some others and the consensus seems to be that to get a good forge weld the surface of the metal should be in the yellow range of iridescence and sparking (because the surface is molten). Idk man, it's cool looking, but like you said, the saw blade was probably unnecessary as 5160 has enough carbon to hold an axe/tomahawk type edge.
I reckon that was probably it. It was very difficult to get the steel to that temperature alone. Thanks for the comment.
I agree, that simply wasn't hot enough. You should see sparks coming off the steel. Not too much, mind you, because you'll cook off too much carbon if you aren't careful. Still, if you're going to use an insert, get a piece of O1, and it mates well with 5160, since metallurgically they're rather similar.
Don't join the to pieces together in the vice before Your ready to fully forge together just get it closer and before shutting brush the place f the weld as much as possible and add your borax put that in the forge and then close the gap
Forge welding leaf spring is hard to do it has to be extremely hot and spotless clean
very nice
I want to buy one!!!!!
enjoyed it
dude Im a blacksmith and let me tell you, you have to hit the steel not tap it.
RETRO THUNDER for a forge weld, I was taught not to beat it, but light quick blows to set the weld.
Northern Mountain Blades co. That data seems correct and I understand what you mean.
Not trying to be rude but if you would swing the hammer instead of just pushing the metal with it life would be a lot easier
While forge welding you really gotta hit the steel hard. You weren't hitting it hard enough I think.
No, that is not the case. You need to ease into it, as a hard hit can cause the front of the bit to rear up. Once the weld is set, then you can go to town.
The exact opposite. Very light taps to set the weld.
You tried thats what counts
WHAM!
Better get a guard on that grinder.
+Stan Tilton
I AGREE with Stan!! Without a guard, you are just about guaranteed a trip to the ER one day. Google "angle grinder injuries" to see what happens when a disk explodes on you.
Nice nice :)
Bôt j mau trang the
he has no idea what he's doing