i appreciate videos like this because for begginers, like me, getting to see how a reasonably simple project is made and using fairly accsesable materials inspires me to try new and realistic projects. these simple basic tutorial esc vids mean a lot.
I appreciate you watching! When I decided to do this channel I wanted to focus on more beginner friendly projects to help everyone I could that is just getting started. I will occasionally do some that are on the more difficult side of things but I will always try to post something beginner friendly as well.
This is great, Matt. I have a box of rail spikes I've been practicing on since starting this year and I'm finally getting the hang of moving them how I want. Gonna follow this video later in the shop.
Thanks! I appreciate you checking it out, They are a lot of fun to make. RR spikes are a great way to get some practice in on various different projects due to the many different things that can be made with them.
Hammer hands down, It takes it from being pretty much a wall hanger to being useful for cutting up kindling and such. The spike would be good for digging but I still think the hammer head would be more useful. I actually made some in the past for a customer with the hammer heel that he would remove from the handle and separate elk rib cages by hammering on it. Thanks for watching, I appreciate it.
A smaller more sturdy spike. Easier to pull out of an enemies skull. A number of tribes had a smaller axe face on the other end. Also a little added weight seems to be needed. Should incapacitate with one blow.
When squishing the head, doesn't/wouldn't flattening it like you did introduce a cold shut? I know this is a wall hanger, just curious. Should we grind off the flat area on the head?
It can and grinding it off is a good idea, at least down to where you can be certain it won't fold over, if you want to make one for kindling splitting or something instead of a wall hanger, I would actually forge the other end into the blade and leave the spike head as a hammering surface to help drive it through the wood. To get enough metal to make the blade portion using the end that has the spike, clamp it in a vise and upset it, then use a cross peen to forge the width you need, it helps a lot. I appreciate you watching.
Cool project. Reminds me of the RMJ Tactical style. Thank you for the video. What do you call the metal tool that you used to form the hole for the handle? Good job 👍
Always gotta use the best! lol, I have made a claw hammer into a hatchet before, it worked really well. I do suggest going with a framers hammer so you get the extra mass. Thanks for watching, I appreciate it!
Thanks! You are correct, they are low carbon, even the HC stamped ones like this one still don't have much, this one was made because I had been asked by several subscribers how to forge one and I wanted to show them, I don't use it, it resides in the drawer of my desk at my workshop until it eventually gets hung on the wall for decor. That all being said I do have a rr spike tomahawk that I use to split kindling for my wood stove but it has a piece of 1095 HC steel forge welded in for the blade.
That came out Clean.. I use to get properties ready for sale and ended up with about 50 really old Spike's. I've been getting the tools together for the basics to work Iron. I got most of what I need. I'm trying to figure out how to utilize my Troy Built 27 ton Log splitter to use as a press Without permanently Changing its Original performance capabilities. It also splits wood vertically. Any Ideas?
I was just gonna ask about forge welding high carbon steel into it. I guess it will stick. Question. I recently tried to forge weld leaf spring into a mild steel wrapped tomahawk. It didn't want to weld. Didn't have this problem with other high carbon steel. Any suggestions?
5160/8670 which is what a lot of leaf springs are made from can be tricky to weld sometimes due to the chromium content, when I do it I usually make sure to weld up all the seams with a welder then give it a good soak time to make certain it is at welding temp, them for your first couple of passes under the hammer use light blows to set the weld and slowly forge out the area. It is also best to work it at or close to around welding temp for the duration of the initial forging process until you get it down close to where you want it to be. I tend to use 1080/1095 tempered way back for most of my bits, some say it is too brittle which if not tempered correctly it can be but it has seemed to work well for me. I appreciate you watching. Here is a link to a bladesmithing forum where they discuss forge welding 5160. www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/36379-5160-forge-weld-q/
Because I was asked by a viewer of the channel to make one, he was wanting to make one as a gift, and in its defense rr spikes are harder than mild steel just not as hard as 10xx series or others like 4140.
Thank you for not narrating or playing some ridiculous soundtrack. Truly the best of these videos!
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
i appreciate videos like this because for begginers, like me, getting to see how a reasonably simple project is made and using fairly accsesable materials inspires me to try new and realistic projects. these simple basic tutorial esc vids mean a lot.
I appreciate you watching! When I decided to do this channel I wanted to focus on more beginner friendly projects to help everyone I could that is just getting started. I will occasionally do some that are on the more difficult side of things but I will always try to post something beginner friendly as well.
When making things like weapons, don't think of the dragonslayer from Berserk but a shortsword. Essentialy a bigger dagger
I have made a few of these, everyone loves them. Your video inspired me.Thanks!
That's awesome! I appreciate you watching.
Great video I’m new to Blacksmithing and this is great info
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I like how you left the hammer marks ,I like it
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Looks great!!!
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This is great, Matt. I have a box of rail spikes I've been practicing on since starting this year and I'm finally getting the hang of moving them how I want. Gonna follow this video later in the shop.
Thanks! I appreciate you checking it out, They are a lot of fun to make. RR spikes are a great way to get some practice in on various different projects due to the many different things that can be made with them.
This is true craftsmanship!
Thanks! I appreciate you watching!
I like the twist in the spike. The dark wood on the handle and the ruff finish on the head makes for a very rustic design. looks handmade, i like it!!
Thanks! I figured that look went best with the texture of the steel. I appreciate you watching!
Great video. Love that you use a harbor freight anvil.
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Thanks for sharing a nice tutorial Sir.. I will try to make an axe like that some day.. thanks a lot Sir.
You bet! I appreciate you watching.
That's awesome I love the twist on the spike.
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This is fantastic! I'm definitely going to try it. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching! I greatly appreciate it!
I really love that rough texture :3
Greatings, turned out awsome .I'm big fan of Tomahawks,into throwing and for fireworks.Will have to get one of those railrodspike Haws ...one day..
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looks great matt love it Mark
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Awesome, I really appreciate the video
No problem, Thanks for checking it out!
Hey Matt, what kind of handle did you put on that. I got to figure where to get some handles or make me one.
That's the best video I have see congratulations for the video note 10,good job
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THX for the Clip
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Very nice job. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. God bless.
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@@Mysticmountainforge your very welcome sir. Not a problem at all.
Another great video
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Nice hawk. thanks for the video
Thanks for checking it out Man, I appreciate it!
Nice hammer work
Thanks!
So. A serious question for the viewers. Which would you prefer. A tomahawk with a spike heel? Or a tomahawk with a hammer heel?
Hammer hands down, It takes it from being pretty much a wall hanger to being useful for cutting up kindling and such. The spike would be good for digging but I still think the hammer head would be more useful. I actually made some in the past for a customer with the hammer heel that he would remove from the handle and separate elk rib cages by hammering on it. Thanks for watching, I appreciate it.
A smaller more sturdy spike. Easier to pull out of an enemies skull. A number of tribes had a smaller axe face on the other end. Also a little added weight seems to be needed. Should incapacitate with one blow.
Hammer
I’m forging my first tomahawk for a church activity
Hammer more useful
sweet art tomahawk ... i'm waiting the next art ...
Dude is just free ballin it with no ppe whatsoever💀🫡 awsome vid man
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Awesome work!!!
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Amazing Work Matt! It is Still a Wonder how you take a simple piece of metal and make Art! Thanks for Sharing!
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Great job! I like the profile.
Thanks for checking it out!
Neat build
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Great video.
Next project noted 😂 nice job!
Thats great, i'll have a crack at making one of those, cheers
Thanks! They are a lot of fun to make, I appreciate you watching!
When squishing the head, doesn't/wouldn't flattening it like you did introduce a cold shut? I know this is a wall hanger, just curious. Should we grind off the flat area on the head?
It can and grinding it off is a good idea, at least down to where you can be certain it won't fold over, if you want to make one for kindling splitting or something instead of a wall hanger, I would actually forge the other end into the blade and leave the spike head as a hammering surface to help drive it through the wood. To get enough metal to make the blade portion using the end that has the spike, clamp it in a vise and upset it, then use a cross peen to forge the width you need, it helps a lot. I appreciate you watching.
Nice.
Would love to own it!
ótima peça
Thanks! I appreciate you watching!
Cool project. Reminds me of the RMJ Tactical style. Thank you for the video. What do you call the metal tool that you used to form the hole for the handle?
Good job 👍
0:22 Nothing but the finest measuring equipment. I have one in blue.
I wonder how a claw hammer would do as tomahawk?
Always gotta use the best! lol, I have made a claw hammer into a hatchet before, it worked really well. I do suggest going with a framers hammer so you get the extra mass. Thanks for watching, I appreciate it!
Shiity for splitting wood, but can drive a nail
That is really sweet! One question tho, I understand that RR spikes are fairly low carbon. How does the edge hold up?
Thanks! You are correct, they are low carbon, even the HC stamped ones like this one still don't have much, this one was made because I had been asked by several subscribers how to forge one and I wanted to show them, I don't use it, it resides in the drawer of my desk at my workshop until it eventually gets hung on the wall for decor. That all being said I do have a rr spike tomahawk that I use to split kindling for my wood stove but it has a piece of 1095 HC steel forge welded in for the blade.
@Mystic Mountain Forge right, I've seem folks add a HC piece to the blade. Thanks for the info.
That came out Clean.. I use to get properties ready for sale and ended up with about 50 really old Spike's. I've been getting the tools together for the basics to work Iron. I got most of what I need. I'm trying to figure out how to utilize my Troy Built 27 ton Log splitter to use as a press Without permanently Changing its Original performance capabilities. It also splits wood vertically. Any Ideas?
I was just gonna ask about forge welding high carbon steel into it. I guess it will stick. Question. I recently tried to forge weld leaf spring into a mild steel wrapped tomahawk. It didn't want to weld. Didn't have this problem with other high carbon steel. Any suggestions?
5160/8670 which is what a lot of leaf springs are made from can be tricky to weld sometimes due to the chromium content, when I do it I usually make sure to weld up all the seams with a welder then give it a good soak time to make certain it is at welding temp, them for your first couple of passes under the hammer use light blows to set the weld and slowly forge out the area. It is also best to work it at or close to around welding temp for the duration of the initial forging process until you get it down close to where you want it to be. I tend to use 1080/1095 tempered way back for most of my bits, some say it is too brittle which if not tempered correctly it can be but it has seemed to work well for me. I appreciate you watching. Here is a link to a bladesmithing forum where they discuss forge welding 5160. www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/36379-5160-forge-weld-q/
@@Mysticmountainforge Thank you
Not too shaby !
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👏👏👏👏👏🤜🤛
Thanks for watching, I greatly appreciate it!
Inset some gemstones
Red ones for matching heads that SPLIT
why would you make an axe blade out of an entirely mild steel?
Because I was asked by a viewer of the channel to make one, he was wanting to make one as a gift, and in its defense rr spikes are harder than mild steel just not as hard as 10xx series or others like 4140.
@@Mysticmountainforge gotcha!
You're going to be forever and a day sharpening that, no high carbon steel wedded in
Yep, its a wall hanger for a friend, it will never see any real use. I appreciate you watching!
Stone axe’s didn’t have any high carbon in them. Bronze didn’t have high carbon. Both were used successfully and affectively
😃🤝👏👍🔪🇧🇷
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Too bad it can never really be a hardened axe, quite beutidul