Hello Friends! Hopefully you read comments before making one. A few points on this: 1. It gives you more stability when cutting shorter material. This is because the miter saw only has a narrow platform at the front. When cutting shorter boards, things get a bit tippy. 2. It produces a cleaner cut. This is because of the table top and the zero clearance. Yes, you can get the same with a small kerf insert ( tape or whatever ), but then you're missing the stability of the table top. 3. I'm sharing this with you because this is what works in my little shop, and I don't have space for a giant miter saw station that takes up an entire wall. I figured some of you might be in the same boat. 4. The sliding compound miter saw is designed for crosscuts. You should be using it for crosscuts and not the table saw.
Thanks for the idea. I need a "jig" to do the small parts for a project i am on and this looks just about right. Not a huge complicated build and something i can lean against the wall when not in use.
Lovely, lovely design!! Ive saved this video and I’m going to copy your plans. Ive also subscribed to you channel. Keep up the great videos. Love from Ireland 🇮🇪
Thank you Eric. Your videos are reminiscent of Goldilocks & the Three Bears - Their information is Not too much Not too little They are just right. Please continue to call this a Crosscut Sled for the Miter Saw; we love seeing the enraged angry Troll !
It depends on the diameter of the circle - might not fit on your bandsaw. There are videos on YT for bandsaw circle jigs. Personally, if I need a perfect circle, I use the router on an axis jig. I find it does a cleaner job.
You can cut a dado into 3/4" Melamine and install an aluminium T-track. Cutting T-tracks straight into to melamine like I do with plywood, probably won't work. Because melamine is made up of a particle core, it will crack. Plywood, being laminated layers, is much tougher.
The dimensions are specific to my mitre saw, so I won't be doing plans. It's just simply a small counter top with a back support. The width goes out about 4 cm / 1.5 inches past the support extensions on either side. The depth is from the back plate to the front, just before the mitre lock in the middle.
I found that the dust collection improved with this new insert. I'm still not sure why, but I think it's because the dust is diverting through the port and not getting blown back to the front like it used to.
Hey Eric, Thank you for sharing this idea and video. I really like your videos. They are all so straight forward and professional. So when when the troll popped in, I had to replay it a couple of times fell out laughing. I loved it! It was a great way to start the video. Now for my question. When making the 45 degree cuts should I leave the jig in the original 90 degree cut position and just turn the saw head or should I slide the jig over (right and left) for each 45 degree cut? Thanks again for the video and the laughs 😀.
Thanks Ray! For 45°, it is best to remove the insert, set your 45° on your saw and lock it. Then place the insert back in, slide it about 4 inches from the center more or less, then line up your blade and make the cut. Again, make sure the depth stop is engaged so you only cut into the surface about 1/16". Also, pleas check if any screws are in the way before you cut. If they are, simply remove them (assuming your glue has dried and set).
It's an old Ryobi Miter saw stand. I picked it up on sale 12 years ago. They don't make it anymore but you can find a similar design from other 3rd party brands.
Hello Friends! Hopefully you read comments before making one. A few points on this: 1. It gives you more stability when cutting shorter material. This is because the miter saw only has a narrow platform at the front. When cutting shorter boards, things get a bit tippy. 2. It produces a cleaner cut. This is because of the table top and the zero clearance. Yes, you can get the same with a small kerf insert ( tape or whatever ), but then you're missing the stability of the table top. 3. I'm sharing this with you because this is what works in my little shop, and I don't have space for a giant miter saw station that takes up an entire wall. I figured some of you might be in the same boat. 4. The sliding compound miter saw is designed for crosscuts. You should be using it for crosscuts and not the table saw.
Best mitre saw addition I have ever seen on YT.
Thanks Wolf! Cheers🙂.🍺
Nice insert.
Thanks, Eric! I had no idea about the depth adjustment. Great idea; I'll be doing something similar, soon.
Simple, straight forward and clever. Thank you.
Thanks Neil! Cheers🙂
Thanks for the idea. I need a "jig" to do the small parts for a project i am on and this looks just about right. Not a huge complicated build and something i can lean against the wall when not in use.
Terrific idea Eric! That looks like a great cross cut insert! 😉😉👍👍
Thanks Steve! Cheers🙂
Thanks Eric much appreciated saved me a lot of time
You have just reinvented the radial arm saw!
I was hoping you someone would say that🙂. A lot of people don't realize that sliding compound miter saws can do more than just chop. Cheers🍺
Yes, really good idea, keep them coming, thanks
Very interesting. You could also set up a stop block for repeatability. A hold down could also be used for smaller pieces. Good. Idea. Good video.
Thanks Lome! Exactly! There are many possible configurations.
Verycool. This is on my shop project list.
Fantastic work, dude! Really nice! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks Buddy! Take Care🙂
Lovely, lovely design!! Ive saved this video and I’m going to copy your plans. Ive also subscribed to you channel. Keep up the great videos. Love from Ireland 🇮🇪
Thanks Andrew! Cheers🙂
What blade do you have in the miter saw ? Does it cut metal to?
It doesn't cut metal (except aluminum ) Diablo 40 tooth / ten inch: amzn.to/2RqEed4
Very cool idea.. was just about to do extension arms but I like this better.
Thanks Chris! Cheers🙂.🍺
@@EricSorensenCanada Most welcome. Keep them coming.
This looks great - I'll definitely be doing this soon!
Thank you Eric. Your videos are reminiscent of Goldilocks & the Three Bears - Their information is Not too much Not too little They are just right. Please continue to call this a Crosscut Sled for the Miter Saw; we love seeing the enraged angry Troll !
Canadians love their Arcteryx....😁😉
...and plenty of Americans🇺🇸.🙂
Hey Eric can you make a jig for circles on a small band saw? Need some ideas
It depends on the diameter of the circle - might not fit on your bandsaw. There are videos on YT for bandsaw circle jigs. Personally, if I need a perfect circle, I use the router on an axis jig. I find it does a cleaner job.
@@EricSorensenCanada all good I use a nail and a 3/4 runner on a board to measure I make the board larger if needed
Hey Eric can you add a t slot to this?
Sure you can. Although I would use 3/4" Plywood instead of Melamine in that case.
Can't you you use t tracks?
You can cut a dado into 3/4" Melamine and install an aluminium T-track. Cutting T-tracks straight into to melamine like I do with plywood, probably won't work. Because melamine is made up of a particle core, it will crack. Plywood, being laminated layers, is much tougher.
I'm not sure if I enjoy your projects or the angry troll imitations more.
Will the plans for this be on your site and are there any special requirements to the miter saw ?
The dimensions are specific to my mitre saw, so I won't be doing plans. It's just simply a small counter top with a back support. The width goes out about 4 cm / 1.5 inches past the support extensions on either side. The depth is from the back plate to the front, just before the mitre lock in the middle.
Thank you! With this insert does saw dust become a problem more than normal?
I found that the dust collection improved with this new insert. I'm still not sure why, but I think it's because the dust is diverting through the port and not getting blown back to the front like it used to.
Hey Eric, Thank you for sharing this idea and video. I really like your videos. They are all so straight forward and professional. So when when the troll popped in, I had to replay it a couple of times fell out laughing. I loved it! It was a great way to start the video.
Now for my question. When making the 45 degree cuts should I leave the jig in the original 90 degree cut position and just turn the saw head or should I slide the jig over (right and left) for each 45 degree cut? Thanks again for the video and the laughs 😀.
Thanks Ray! For 45°, it is best to remove the insert, set your 45° on your saw and lock it. Then place the insert back in, slide it about 4 inches from the center more or less, then line up your blade and make the cut. Again, make sure the depth stop is engaged so you only cut into the surface about 1/16". Also, pleas check if any screws are in the way before you cut. If they are, simply remove them (assuming your glue has dried and set).
@@EricSorensenCanada Thank you for your reply.
Eric, is that a Rigid miter saw stand that your slider was sitting on
It's an old Ryobi Miter saw stand. I picked it up on sale 12 years ago. They don't make it anymore but you can find a similar design from other 3rd party brands.
Too many trolls and not enough Billy Goats Gruff eh?