Great job Bill. Im like you, I find a way to make things work. You are starting to see a driving Christine on the horizon. Hope you will take us along on the shake down test drive, thanks again!
I think this was the most comical video so far. When the trans dumped over on you and spilled 😄. I’m sorry I know I shouldn’t laugh. And I was screaming at my phone “Bill, you’re righting the bolt!” 😄 Then the next scene is you commenting about it. Omg, when you were still removing the bell housing, the trans rocked and came RRReally close to bumping Christine’s door. I thought to myself “oh man Christine almost got her first battle scar!” Great video Bill. Thanks for sharing.
What happened is that I was beating down on the ones on the opposite side, which was the right direction, and without thinking I just started beating down on the ones on the other side, which was backwards! LOL!
I almost commented about the detent ball on the reverse lever. Thanks for doing this for me, I got a '76 saginaw that I'm doing the exact seals & clean up on the bench. Did a couple Muncies but these are different. Good job!!
When I figured out what it was, I went back and looked at the video and saw that it was NEVER in there to begin with! Whoever assembled it last dropped that ball and it's been rolling around the bottom of the case ever since. The funny thing is that the transmission never acted funny without it.
@RestoringChristine1956 OH funny, I finished mine this week. After trying to order the right spring and ball, I found everything and another gasket set in a baggie. Good thing too, the input housing takes a .030 gasket, so it took two of them!!
This is a helpful video for me. I've got a greasy old Saginaw 4 speed & an older Hurst Competition Plus shifter to put in my '56 Club Coupe. I'm just missing the linkage. I need to do pretty much everything you did here. I've been checking in on your project every now & then for months. I can't keep up with you. Looking forward to seeing the finished car.
It's not all that difficult, but I'd definitely get the seal kit, and they seem to be pretty universal as far as fit. For the shifter, there are a number of good videos that show you how to take them apart and one guy even has shim kits that he sells to really dial it in.
I really enjoy following this series on your channel. I bought earlier this year a real shitbox of a 57' 2 door hardtop. It will require nearly every panel to be replaced, plus the frame and multiple items that did not come with the car. So far I have acquired the following: One piece frame OEM treadlevac master cylinder OEM Power Brakes pedal assembly Deluxe Heater assembly complete with blower motor, heater core and heater control valve. OEM generator for p/s pump OEM Power Steering Pump OEM P/S Control Valve Original AM radio An original full dash assembly to replace damaged one. Original 283 cid Engine for 1957 model year Now onto complete floor boards, inner quarters, outer quarters, rockers, and drivers side A-pillar ( damaged in previous accident). Vehicle going back to Original from frame up. Thank you for sharing your journey on Christine.
Thanks for the great videos. It's interesting that the Hurst Competition plus that I have with a rebuilt Saginaw, has reverse left and back. Supposedly, the other two Chevy 4 speed transmissions, one was the Muncie , is the reverse, to the left and up, like yours. Check it out, because they are a heavier duty transmision.
Likely because your linkage on that shaft is opposite and from the bottom. I'll bet if you looked, it's just a matter of unbolting the link and flipping it to come from the top.
Good video! Interesting and informative. I was amused that as your day wore on, your hammers got bigger! ;) I decided on a Lakewood Scatter Shield many years ago, after seeing the aftermath of an exploded clutch! I'm not as adventurous as you, so I'm going to find someone to service my 4 speed. ;) I have 2, so best one, or combination thereof, goes in the car. Keep up the good work, I really look forward to your videos!! :)
I had a muncie out of a GTO in my 55 ... had a m20 m21 m22 and a super T10 in my stash before someone stold them ... the big thing in 4 speeds is the syncros ... they should look like little houses both the steel and the brass ones ... if it shifts good then don't worry about them ... I put a 700r4 in mine ... gettin too old to shift ... keep at it ...
Unfortunately, I watched one extra video AFTER it was all installed. Now I want to take the Hurst back out, take it all apart again, and tweak the pin that locks out reverse.
It's a lot better without having to do things that are like a cardio workout! I can stand there and bolt things together without getting beat by the heat!
Watched again Bill! Wanted to see what the paint was. Found it but only 250 degree . Will look some more to see if they offer a high temp. Hope your install went OK. Wondering how you played out and cut the shifter hole in the floor. Hi to Deuce. Stay cool.
The Seymore? Got that from Autozone. They used to sell something like it in Dupli-Color, but I "settled" for what they had on the shelf. So glad that I did! Whether it's available in a high-temp, that I don't know.
If Christine was a 6 cylinder then I don't think it's her original bell housing. Double check but I think the pattern on the block is different between 6 and v8. It is period correct because it has the side transmission mounts.
That's a good point. The clutch fork was most definitely NOT a tri-five piece, and the pivot shaft between the pedal and clutch is hand made (before me). One time I was driving around and the clutch pedal just went straight to the floor. I lost a J-bolt looking piece that plunges into the fork and could NEVER identify it's replacement. I ended up making one out of an anchor bolt, a threaded coupler, and a rocker arm ball!
Great color! Beautiful done
And nobody's ever going to see it! LOL!
Hey Bill, that turned out really good, I love that cast paint, appreciate the video!
Thanks 👍
Great job Bill. Im like you, I find a way to make things work. You are starting to see a driving Christine on the horizon. Hope you will take us along on the shake down test drive, thanks again!
You know it!
Engine looks amazing Bill! Trans does as well.
When it's all dressed up, it's going to look really killer!
I think this was the most comical video so far. When the trans dumped over on you and spilled 😄. I’m sorry I know I shouldn’t laugh. And I was screaming at my phone “Bill, you’re righting the bolt!” 😄 Then the next scene is you commenting about it. Omg, when you were still removing the bell housing, the trans rocked and came RRReally close to bumping Christine’s door. I thought to myself “oh man Christine almost got her first battle scar!” Great video Bill. Thanks for sharing.
What happened is that I was beating down on the ones on the opposite side, which was the right direction, and without thinking I just started beating down on the ones on the other side, which was backwards! LOL!
Nice oil slick 😂. Keepin it real, like your channel.
Sometimes, you just can't hide the embarrassing truth! LOL!
I almost commented about the detent ball on the reverse lever. Thanks for doing this for me, I got a '76 saginaw that I'm doing the exact seals & clean up on the bench. Did a couple Muncies but these are different. Good job!!
When I figured out what it was, I went back and looked at the video and saw that it was NEVER in there to begin with! Whoever assembled it last dropped that ball and it's been rolling around the bottom of the case ever since. The funny thing is that the transmission never acted funny without it.
@RestoringChristine1956 OH funny, I finished mine this week. After trying to order the right spring and ball, I found everything and another gasket set in a baggie. Good thing too, the input housing takes a .030 gasket, so it took two of them!!
This is a helpful video for me. I've got a greasy old Saginaw 4 speed & an older Hurst Competition Plus shifter to put in my '56 Club Coupe. I'm just missing the linkage. I need to do pretty much everything you did here.
I've been checking in on your project every now & then for months. I can't keep up with you. Looking forward to seeing the finished car.
It's not all that difficult, but I'd definitely get the seal kit, and they seem to be pretty universal as far as fit. For the shifter, there are a number of good videos that show you how to take them apart and one guy even has shim kits that he sells to really dial it in.
I really enjoy following this series on your channel. I bought earlier this year a real shitbox of a 57' 2 door hardtop. It will require nearly every panel to be replaced, plus the frame and multiple items that did not come with the car. So far I have acquired the following:
One piece frame
OEM treadlevac master cylinder
OEM Power Brakes pedal assembly
Deluxe Heater assembly complete with blower motor, heater core and heater control valve.
OEM generator for p/s pump
OEM Power Steering Pump
OEM P/S Control Valve
Original AM radio
An original full dash assembly to replace damaged one.
Original 283 cid Engine for 1957 model year
Now onto complete floor boards, inner quarters, outer quarters, rockers, and drivers side A-pillar ( damaged in previous accident).
Vehicle going back to Original from frame up.
Thank you for sharing your journey on Christine.
That sounds like a lot of work, but it's all a labor of love!
Thanks for the great videos. It's interesting that the Hurst Competition plus that I have with a rebuilt Saginaw, has reverse left and back. Supposedly, the other two Chevy 4 speed transmissions, one was the Muncie , is the reverse, to the left and up, like yours. Check it out, because they are a heavier duty transmision.
Likely because your linkage on that shaft is opposite and from the bottom. I'll bet if you looked, it's just a matter of unbolting the link and flipping it to come from the top.
Good video! Interesting and informative. I was amused that as your day wore on, your hammers got bigger! ;) I decided on a Lakewood Scatter Shield many years ago, after seeing the aftermath of an exploded clutch! I'm not as adventurous as you, so I'm going to find someone to service my 4 speed. ;) I have 2, so best one, or combination thereof, goes in the car. Keep up the good work, I really look forward to your videos!! :)
I didn't think about it, but you're right! LOL!
I had a muncie out of a GTO in my 55 ... had a m20 m21 m22 and a super T10 in my stash before someone stold them ... the big thing in 4 speeds is the syncros ... they should look like little houses both the steel and the brass ones ... if it shifts good then don't worry about them ... I put a 700r4 in mine ... gettin too old to shift ... keep at it ...
Unfortunately, I watched one extra video AFTER it was all installed. Now I want to take the Hurst back out, take it all apart again, and tweak the pin that locks out reverse.
Getting close now..must be hard to work on this time of year with the summer heat..it's warm enough up here in Green Bay.
It's a lot better without having to do things that are like a cardio workout! I can stand there and bolt things together without getting beat by the heat!
Watched again Bill! Wanted to see what the paint was. Found it but only 250 degree . Will look some more to see if they offer a high temp. Hope your install went OK. Wondering how you played out and cut the shifter hole in the floor. Hi to Deuce. Stay cool.
The Seymore? Got that from Autozone. They used to sell something like it in Dupli-Color, but I "settled" for what they had on the shelf. So glad that I did! Whether it's available in a high-temp, that I don't know.
If Christine was a 6 cylinder then I don't think it's her original bell housing. Double check but I think the pattern on the block is different between 6 and v8. It is period correct because it has the side transmission mounts.
That's a good point. The clutch fork was most definitely NOT a tri-five piece, and the pivot shaft between the pedal and clutch is hand made (before me). One time I was driving around and the clutch pedal just went straight to the floor. I lost a J-bolt looking piece that plunges into the fork and could NEVER identify it's replacement. I ended up making one out of an anchor bolt, a threaded coupler, and a rocker arm ball!
Nice work bill.the small channel in the bottom of the bearing retainer is to return the oil from the bearing back to the case
Unit neglected to grease the lip on the seals.
I did put a little gear oil on the front seal off camera. I'll get the rear seal when I put in the driveshaft.