Surely like the fact that you talk about the undercut and continue to gride and reweld. Most people making these videos won't admit to any mistakes. Kudos for the honesty. Honesty is the best policy and will allow your business to grow rapidly.
I like how you showed the baler running at the end, most of these repair channels only show the work they do to the part, not the work that the part does
13:20 I could be wrong.. but I don’t think it was anything in the material. This was bound to happen because you were sealing the air inside and it spit out at you because the oxygen was leaving the inside of the pipe. If there was another hole somewhere else it wouldn’t have happened. Not a bad thing, it’s just the air pressure inside. Probably could’ve let it cool a bit before closing that last bit to prevent it from spitting out at you. I could be wrong, just my two cents. Great job man
@@MeltinMetalAnthony when doing long welds in a closed vessel, a separate vent hole to allow hot gasses to expand will prevent the spit. once cooled, weld the vent hole closed.
@@MeltinMetalAnthony Austin Ross just had a video yesterday or the day before where he talked about it. he had his root in and when he was hot pass/capping it blew a hole out the weld and he had to fill it in and he talked about it
Im a retired welder fabricator 38 year's. I have always said the welding it self is the smallest part. Fit up set up is the biggest part. I will say you nailed this. 👍👍👍👍👍
As a welder and farmer I gotta say you killed it. I’ve had the same roller break on the baler I use. This farmer was lucky to have a quality repair not some 1/2 ass repair that farm equipment often gets! Nice work, and you take pride and do it right the first time. Hats off to you!!!
I just did one of these a month ago! took 3 of us to get it back in,we were all bleeding by the end-lol! lots of sharp edges in a baler. I like how you pay attention to interpass temps-sign of a true professional
It's amazing at how much time and work is spent to make it look like it was never broke and that you never did anything. I've also noticed that you are a fussy welder. I would recommend you to anyone. Nice Job!!!
That was great boss. I love how you went through the whole trouble shooting process. That is so helpful to anyone who is fighting with a similar problem. And then you showed us the proof. Fantastic.
Very cool. I work for a conpany that builds these service trucks. Big and smaller. Im the 2nd painter. Always nice seeing rhe work you do out in the field getting put to work
I got some ideas for you Anthony. iGaging or Klein Digital Angle Gauges, the iGaging is almost twice as much at 40-50 bucks but its magnetic and can be zeroed, they are the digital calipers of the bubble level world. They will make your life so much easier. That repair is not sound, we typically get these kinds of fabrication/welding jobs in our machine shop and something like this has to be setup and welded in a lathe. The weld is solid it will outlast everything else, but that roller will probably cause a failure in the opposite side, the bearings that hold it, or the axle stubs will break off on either end. I saw a shit ton of runout in that roller it is atleast 1/8" runout. Or the roller could be the strongest part and something gives in the rest of the machine because its forcing around a roller with >.125 runout. Something HAS to give when tolerances are not met mechanically. You can improvise a fixture to approach the precision of a lathe with a few roller head pipe stands, the Ridgid seems the best for its cost with its wide rollers. A turn ground polished bar longer than the piece you are welding would be used to set the stands to get as much accuracy as you can. You want full roller contact on both sides of the bar and you can check this by putting permatex fitting compound on the tgp bar and seeing even blue transferred on all rollers; your rollers are now as accurate as you can get them. You then put both axle stub ends on the rollers making sure they receive blue from the rollers and this ensures they are as coaxial and as straight as you can get them in the field. You use a dial indicator on the roller body close to the repair so the roller surface is running true to the axle stub its being welded to, this is what the 3rd roller head pipe stand is for. With this setup you can approach machine shop precision in the field without the need for dozens of tons of machine. It will not be perfect or possibly even acceptable in a machine shop, but it will be the best anybody in a 300 mile radius can do out in the field without a large lathe. I guessed .125-.250 runout in your repair, if you learned this you could get that down to .01-.03 runout with a robust 3 roller stand setup and the most accurate gauge bar you can use to set everything up.
As a professional farm fixer my self. I’d run that roller till I traded it in. Beautiful work bud, looks better than some new parts you get from the dealers.
Bold move Cotton ! Great job figure it out as you go along , I did this work in the 70's and 80's No internet to find answers , Love watching you work , An Montana Background is the vest
Bro, I love your positive attitude and confidence, it really shows in your work and in your capabilities. What an example of an expert craftsman in your field. Keep up the good work and videos rolling.
The moisture you see from heating your rods is likely from the flame itself, and not the rods (assuming you stored them correctly which it looks like you did). Water forms as part of every combustion reaction so when running it over a "cold" surface like the steel on your truck you'll see water condense out of the flame, and then disappear as you re-heat it with your flame. Great work!
Looking good brother, I like seeing pipe fitting skills used for another application. Seems like you always learn more doing a repair then with a perfect fitup. Keep the videos coming.
If you put thick rubber washers between the welding machine and your truck bed it’ll take out the vibration. Kinda like Harley Davidson did on their motorcycles .
Love this content and even more there isn't one bad comment I can find. Get job everyone. And thank you for saving this man's crops. It's not mine but if everything I worked hard for was about to just die in front of me, id do almost anything to make it happen. So seriously. Thanks you.😊
He’s lucky he had someone as diligent as you do the repair. Balers have a habit of catching fire when the bearings fail and if you don’t get it unhooked fast enough can lose the tractor too.
Years ago I fixed a similar part but for an industrial webbing winder. Ended up making a cross strut welded onto the end cap then welded that into the tube as well as fixing the original crack. Certainly saved a LOT of money vs buying a new part and the down time ❤
Nice work Anthony! I like the way you made adjustments as you went along, tweaking the process as was needed. I especially appreciated the pre-heat and post heat aspects you included in this repair. I have no doubt your repair will last far longer than other areas of that roller! Solid work …well done!
Thanks bud! I try to keep it as transparent as possible. I never weld the same thing 2x except pipe fence lately so I never know exactly what I’m going to do until I’m I. It
@@MeltinMetalAnthonyif you didn't have the kevlar blanket or sand to post heat couldn't you periodically run the torch over it to slow the cooling? Or does it need to be shielded from the atmosphere?
I love you, dude. You own up to your mistakes. People make it sound like mistakes can't be fixed. And you dont take shit from nobody. 👍 nice repair, and you taught me a few tricks
I remember we had a “bale kicker” failure and we actually put square tubing inside the round in hopes of more strength. If I remember right, it worked well after gussets were added to the arms to help with the extra weight
I've fixed more farming equipment than anything else in my lifetime. I've never done one of those before though. Lots of combines, threshers and balers but never that roller. I'm sure he was happy you got it done in a timely manner. Downtime for farmers sucks hard. Nice job on the repair
I'm still wondering how it broke in the first place. I saw a post on FB where a belt broke in half and wrapped around the pickup and destroyed the whole assembly for the pickup + bent a couple of the rollers. Can't even imagine how much it cost to fix all that
For jobs like this one is where a roll out wheel really comes in handy along with a jack stand with a head that allows to roll pipe. Made my own roll out wheel with a 8" lathe chuck. It comes in handy. Great repair
decent explanation of what you did and why you did it all , not a welder here by any stretch of the ima=gaination expect for some dicking around on my own projects and fully understood why and how you did it all . VERY NICE !! Keep Up The Good Work
Brilliant job and very well explained. A really interesting video, thank you. I wonder what a new roller would have cost, but not only that is the delay and farmers cannot have delays when harvesting.
Not sure if you've ever heard another youtuber who's a welder but also a farmer but the name of his channel was called chucke2009 until it got deleted now his new channel is called official welding and farming archive,anyway ypur channel remminds a lot of his channel as he's done the same type of work,very satisfying to watch and well done to you
Dear Mr James . 13:25 or so, that part that spit out at you was probably caused by the pipe not being vented.....a small hole drilled to let out the pressure somewhere on pipe , and then welded up after you finish your welds can prevent this...... best wishes from Florida, Paul 'Paulie' Brown
@@MeltinMetalAnthony You can also just leave a hole to the end then fill that. MANY pieces of equipment are not made with particular care by the factory. Note that tube was a bit thin for the application (steel is $$$ in volume). Were I the owner I'd have a heavier wall replacement made in advance of next season since nearly every failure is a signal to upgrade. You probably know a machinist or two and some time spent watching them do repair machining is GOLDEN for understanding even more about metal, and if ya lay some beads to return the favor you have another friend for the mutual favor factory. (I fix computers for my machinist bro and he gives me all sorts of cut-offs which cost him nothing since the customer paid for the stick.)
Dude you rock. I'm *not* in the trade, but watch a lot of machining and sparky Tubers. You showed many techniques that I did not know about...and I'm talking, This Old Tony, Abom, IC Weld, Classic Weld, etc. Love the attitude!
What spit out at you was lamination in the pipe you were welding. For those of you who do not know what lamination is, it is a place in sub standard import steel (not necessarily pipe) where because of contamination, the material has layers instead of being one piece. It is usually only in spots, but I have seen patches of lamination that have been several square inches. Lamination is usually indicative of Chinese and Korean made steel. I hope this answered some questions. I have done the same exact repair in the same exact place on an older New Holland bailer, that was made in the 1990's. The difference was that the piece on the end was pressed in and the roller was coated in a heavy rubber sleeve. The pipe roller on the one I repaired was 3/8 inch DOM tubing
@@MeltinMetalAnthony anytime brother. I only know that because my stepdad was a welder in Kaiser steel foundry and he told me when I was welding pipeline for North West pipe, for the Alaskan pipeline and I explained it to him what I was experiencing. His response was, it's that damned Korean steel with all the laminations and contamination in it when it's made. Now obviously we have Chinese steel and Korean steel is far superior to Chinese, but way sub par to any American made steel (fuckin EPA and unions put the steel mills out of business). Since that day I looked up a lot of information on metallurgy and have learned a lot. Keep up the good work. Reach out if you need information. Heating the material up was a great touch, but is usually only necessary if it is an alloy or is thicker than 1/2 or has been heat treated. Great call on the slow cool. No brittle welds. All in all, great video for a lot of diy guys who are wanting to get a little deeper into the suck. I am a retired mechanic, but also worked in the fabrication, pipeline and welding industry, so guys like us have a leg up on many people.
@@RJ1999x good observation. But in response to why the weld shooting back out as he is welding it, that is lamination due to contamination. Usually those bailers don't have any adjustments on the rollers, just bearings that wear out. The only thing that would make something have more tension on that side of where the roller broke, would be due to a belt being of a different length than the other belts. But that is a very good observation. It could have just been metal fatigue also, because the ends where the bearings are, it is holding the lions share of the weight. Each round bail could weigh as much as 2000 pounds, but usually 1400-1700 pounds, so there is a lot of force spinning the hay while the bails are being made. Great comment by the way. It is wonderful when like minded people can share knowledge and experience and opinions and in the end, nobody is angry. Thank God working on equipment has no politics in it, or nothing would get fixed.
@@OtisDavies-cv6ze thanks, I've been farming for 40 yrs, and in my experience the part failing, especially on New Holland machines, is usually something else, not adjusted right, out of alignment, a bearing failure, another part wore out. Just need to look a little further then the obvious
Great video. That blow out can happen because of pressure build up from inside the sealed tube. That air wants to expand as it heats up and has no where to go, thus it can blow out the liquid puddle.
Damn, love your problem solving, and execution… and those “Pop ups” and your sense of humor, always get me laughing! Well done ANTHONY! Keep it up!⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⚡️⚡️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
@@MeltinMetalAnthony I did not expect a response but ya when I worked at a sawmill that's what we would do so we could clean and key shafts. Sadly if you have to really rak on something you have to wrap the shaft with Emory cloth and stick it in the pipe clamp portion of the vise if you have it.
Have a time/effort saver for you Anthony. Use a square instead of a level. The long "leg" of the sq. goes on the tube. The short "leg " of the sq. goes on the broken piece. I have done this on pipe and structural work for 34 yrs in paper mills, chemical plants and hospital boiler rooms. All the best, Pete 🙂
Truly enjoy your videos man, and really appreciate the honesty. You do great work but just like the rest of use that do this, somedays we are adjusting and learning as we go, and using our knowledge to know when to grind and fix and how to read the puddle and know when to adjust your machine. You show what its actually like in the field preforming and emergency repair. Great job man!
By all means I am not a welder but I do my own welding for me. I made a rod heater from a heat lamp and a metal cabinet that was used for boiler water testing reagents. It works very well for me.
Kinda reminds me of those Pakistani videos were the fix broken cv axles and drive shafts buut with English narration😆👏👏👏 great video brother keep"em coming.
When welding small bore pipe we run 1/8 6010 root and 3/32 fill, cap in position. That way if you dont have a remote or are away from your machine they run the same amps. I roll everything i can. Can run bigger rod and save your back a little. Cheers, thanks for the infotainment. Good luck out there brother
great you were able to 'Bail Out' your neighbor on his Baler......
🤣🤣
You shoulda just used a square instead of fucking around with that level
😂
Bruh! 😂😂
"hey, I got that one!!"
Surely like the fact that you talk about the undercut and continue to gride and reweld. Most people making these videos won't admit to any mistakes. Kudos for the honesty. Honesty is the best policy and will allow your business to grow rapidly.
I like how you showed the baler running at the end, most of these repair channels only show the work they do to the part, not the work that the part does
that mom joke had me spitting my coffee out!
Moms need love too!
What if I told you my Mom's name is Doug?
13:20 I could be wrong.. but I don’t think it was anything in the material. This was bound to happen because you were sealing the air inside and it spit out at you because the oxygen was leaving the inside of the pipe. If there was another hole somewhere else it wouldn’t have happened. Not a bad thing, it’s just the air pressure inside. Probably could’ve let it cool a bit before closing that last bit to prevent it from spitting out at you. I could be wrong, just my two cents. Great job man
Possible! Never had that happen with steel. And also that was after the root. Was the hot pass that it did that
@@MeltinMetalAnthony yeah as soon as I said that I remembered it was the cap.. that’s strange. 🤷🏻♂️
*I think that's just a variation in the steel. Happens with cast aluminum all the time. That cylinder could likely hold a few hundred psi no problem.*
@@MeltinMetalAnthony when doing long welds in a closed vessel, a separate vent hole to allow hot gasses to expand will prevent the spit. once cooled, weld the vent hole closed.
@@MeltinMetalAnthony Austin Ross just had a video yesterday or the day before where he talked about it. he had his root in and when he was hot pass/capping it blew a hole out the weld and he had to fill it in and he talked about it
Im a retired welder fabricator 38 year's. I have always said the welding it self is the smallest part. Fit up set up is the biggest part. I will say you nailed this. 👍👍👍👍👍
You have helped me to get over the perfectionist aspect in my life with welding
As a welder and farmer I gotta say you killed it. I’ve had the same roller break on the baler I use. This farmer was lucky to have a quality repair not some 1/2 ass repair that farm equipment often gets! Nice work, and you take pride and do it right the first time. Hats off to you!!!
I just did one of these a month ago! took 3 of us to get it back in,we were all bleeding by the end-lol! lots of sharp edges in a baler. I like how you pay attention to interpass temps-sign of a true professional
Thanks bud! I do my best
*Looks clean. I thought you were wasting daylight getting that roller square for the third time until I saw it spinning at 600rpm lol.*
@MeltinMetalAnthony could that blow out you had could possibly be expanding air inside the pipe trying to escape is it a sealed unit?
That's exactly what happend.
@@1nvisible1it would've been a nightmare for that farmer if it was wobbling badly and the belt got twisted or tangled with the other belts
It's amazing at how much time and work is spent to make it look like it was never broke and that you never did anything. I've also noticed that you are a fussy welder. I would recommend you to anyone. Nice Job!!!
I was worried for my mom, until he pullout his screwdriver😂
🤣
I love the text on the screen about you and my mom. Old school, keep them coming.
That was great boss. I love how you went through the whole trouble shooting process. That is so helpful to anyone who is fighting with a similar problem. And then you showed us the proof. Fantastic.
Very cool. I work for a conpany that builds these service trucks. Big and smaller. Im the 2nd painter. Always nice seeing rhe work you do out in the field getting put to work
hot air in the closed tube expanded and pressurized the vessel. maybe drill a vent hole next time.
I got some ideas for you Anthony. iGaging or Klein Digital Angle Gauges, the iGaging is almost twice as much at 40-50 bucks but its magnetic and can be zeroed, they are the digital calipers of the bubble level world. They will make your life so much easier.
That repair is not sound, we typically get these kinds of fabrication/welding jobs in our machine shop and something like this has to be setup and welded in a lathe. The weld is solid it will outlast everything else, but that roller will probably cause a failure in the opposite side, the bearings that hold it, or the axle stubs will break off on either end. I saw a shit ton of runout in that roller it is atleast 1/8" runout. Or the roller could be the strongest part and something gives in the rest of the machine because its forcing around a roller with >.125 runout. Something HAS to give when tolerances are not met mechanically.
You can improvise a fixture to approach the precision of a lathe with a few roller head pipe stands, the Ridgid seems the best for its cost with its wide rollers. A turn ground polished bar longer than the piece you are welding would be used to set the stands to get as much accuracy as you can. You want full roller contact on both sides of the bar and you can check this by putting permatex fitting compound on the tgp bar and seeing even blue transferred on all rollers; your rollers are now as accurate as you can get them. You then put both axle stub ends on the rollers making sure they receive blue from the rollers and this ensures they are as coaxial and as straight as you can get them in the field. You use a dial indicator on the roller body close to the repair so the roller surface is running true to the axle stub its being welded to, this is what the 3rd roller head pipe stand is for.
With this setup you can approach machine shop precision in the field without the need for dozens of tons of machine. It will not be perfect or possibly even acceptable in a machine shop, but it will be the best anybody in a 300 mile radius can do out in the field without a large lathe. I guessed .125-.250 runout in your repair, if you learned this you could get that down to .01-.03 runout with a robust 3 roller stand setup and the most accurate gauge bar you can use to set everything up.
WELL DONE. Doing an "in the field" repair without ending up with a serious shaft wobble is pretty damn good.
3:20 leveling when you should use squares. Always choose squares over levels when you can. Good job!
serves a more accurate result
he obviously didnt have a square on hand
It doesn’t matter how many mistakes you make, it only matters that you can fix your mistakes.
- every great technician ever
Now i cant stop picturing you and my mom...thanks alot
Love this guy. Be the best best friend anyone could have
I appreciated your narrative and diligence in the repair. I did not appreciate a word in your excited review.
A true master of his craft isn't flawless, he is willing to grind out his mistakes and start over until he is 100% content with the outcome.
As a professional farm fixer my self. I’d run that roller till I traded it in. Beautiful work bud, looks better than some new parts you get from the dealers.
Thanks 👍
That was a very interesting repair- extremely well-done, especially with the improvisation with the equipment available.
Bold move Cotton ! Great job figure it out as you go along , I did this work in the 70's and 80's No internet to find answers , Love watching you work , An Montana Background is the vest
Right on!
I know what you mean, all that time experimenting , when you could have just been sittin' on you butt watchin' utube...
I know nothing about your repair and I'm not looking to start but for some reason I was still entertained watching.
Bro, I love your positive attitude and confidence, it really shows in your work and in your capabilities. What an example of an expert craftsman in your field. Keep up the good work and videos rolling.
I appreciate that!
The moisture you see from heating your rods is likely from the flame itself, and not the rods (assuming you stored them correctly which it looks like you did). Water forms as part of every combustion reaction so when running it over a "cold" surface like the steel on your truck you'll see water condense out of the flame, and then disappear as you re-heat it with your flame.
Great work!
Good 👍🏿 job 💯
Looking good brother, I like seeing pipe fitting skills used for another application. Seems like you always learn more doing a repair then with a perfect fitup. Keep the videos coming.
Thanks 👍
Dude you killed that weld in my mild opinion!!! That saved that farmer and you should be proud of what you do in everything!!!!
Thanks man!
If you put thick rubber washers between the welding machine and your truck bed it’ll take out the vibration. Kinda like Harley Davidson did on their motorcycles .
Love this content and even more there isn't one bad comment I can find. Get job everyone. And thank you for saving this man's crops. It's not mine but if everything I worked hard for was about to just die in front of me, id do almost anything to make it happen. So seriously. Thanks you.😊
admitting mistakes is hard and you are very transparent with your audience keep going
Dude…this is great stuff. Thanks for posting the vid!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Weld a nut to the out rigger . Use a three quarter impact that raises your truck
That’s a great idea! I’m gonna
*My mom will miss the workout :-(*
@@1nvisible1😂😂
In practice it probably wouldn't work. It'd either break the drive for the leg, or stop turning
@nickwhite6717 a drill would be much better I wouldn't use an impact
He’s lucky he had someone as diligent as you do the repair. Balers have a habit of catching fire when the bearings fail and if you don’t get it unhooked fast enough can lose the tractor too.
Craftsman ship is important but offset bearings can help too
Years ago I fixed a similar part but for an industrial webbing winder. Ended up making a cross strut welded onto the end cap then welded that into the tube as well as fixing the original crack. Certainly saved a LOT of money vs buying a new part and the down time ❤
well done the video was very educational for me learning to weld myself.
Nice work Anthony! I like the way you made adjustments as you went along, tweaking the process as was needed. I especially appreciated the pre-heat and post heat aspects you included in this repair. I have no doubt your repair will last far longer than other areas of that roller! Solid work …well done!
Thanks bud! I try to keep it as transparent as possible. I never weld the same thing 2x except pipe fence lately so I never know exactly what I’m going to do until I’m I. It
@@MeltinMetalAnthonyif you didn't have the kevlar blanket or sand to post heat couldn't you periodically run the torch over it to slow the cooling?
Or does it need to be shielded from the atmosphere?
“That’s f…ing dead nuts” love to hear it
Good job and nice follow through with the customer. Thanks for the post!
Mad respect Anthony for helping out the farmer. I love it! Haters gonna hate. I dig your stuff ✌️
I love you, dude. You own up to your mistakes. People make it sound like mistakes can't be fixed. And you dont take shit from nobody. 👍 nice repair, and you taught me a few tricks
Good video. Loved the diligence of adjustments and added heat.
I remember we had a “bale kicker” failure and we actually put square tubing inside the round in hopes of more strength. If I remember right, it worked well after gussets were added to the arms to help with the extra weight
Looks like you grinded a tone away though can see a dich like the bar is thinner like 3 inches from the end
I’m not a welder yet, but I love watching your vids knowing I’m gonna do things close to this one day soon 😂 love it brother
Awesome work! Awesome workmanship!!!! Love all your videos
Thanks
Thank you very much!
I've fixed more farming equipment than anything else in my lifetime. I've never done one of those before though. Lots of combines, threshers and balers but never that roller.
I'm sure he was happy you got it done in a timely manner. Downtime for farmers sucks hard.
Nice job on the repair
I'm still wondering how it broke in the first place. I saw a post on FB where a belt broke in half and wrapped around the pickup and destroyed the whole assembly for the pickup + bent a couple of the rollers.
Can't even imagine how much it cost to fix all that
For jobs like this one is where a roll out wheel really comes in handy along with a jack stand with a head that allows to roll pipe.
Made my own roll out wheel with a 8" lathe chuck.
It comes in handy.
Great repair
THATS A HANDY THING TO HAVE
Very well done, Anthony. You're a pro.
decent explanation of what you did and why you did it all , not a welder here by any stretch of the ima=gaination expect for some dicking around on my own projects and fully understood why and how you did it all . VERY NICE !! Keep Up The Good Work
Brilliant job and very well explained. A really interesting video, thank you. I wonder what a new roller would have cost, but not only that is the delay and farmers cannot have delays when harvesting.
Love the fact you aren’t afraid of tackling something new! Your job came out great, well done sir!
It's level and plumb, brother. Good work
Not sure if you've ever heard another youtuber who's a welder but also a farmer but the name of his channel was called chucke2009 until it got deleted now his new channel is called official welding and farming archive,anyway ypur channel remminds a lot of his channel as he's done the same type of work,very satisfying to watch and well done to you
Thanks bud
Dear Mr James .
13:25 or so, that part that spit out at you was probably
caused by the pipe not being vented.....a small hole drilled to let out the
pressure somewhere on pipe , and then welded up after you finish your
welds can prevent this......
best wishes from Florida, Paul 'Paulie' Brown
Thanks Paul! Ya that was probably it! I just wonder how they welded it originally cause it had no vent hole
@@MeltinMetalAnthony You can also just leave a hole to the end then fill that. MANY pieces of equipment are not made with particular care by the factory. Note that tube was a bit thin for the application (steel is $$$ in volume). Were I the owner I'd have a heavier wall replacement made in advance of next season since nearly every failure is a signal to upgrade. You probably know a machinist or two and some time spent watching them do repair machining is GOLDEN for understanding even more about metal, and if ya lay some beads to return the favor you have another friend for the mutual favor factory. (I fix computers for my machinist bro and he gives me all sorts of cut-offs which cost him nothing since the customer paid for the stick.)
I did tons of rollers the ends they were machined down by a lathe had to be carefull not to warp the shaft
im not a welder, but from a mechanic point of view. this looked like art
Very clean field job Anthony!
Love the new ending part 😂 up yours 😂😂😂
🤣
love that you take passion in your work being in this field i've seen so many shx workers
You tell it like it is. Love it man.
Good repair! You care about your work! Keep at it !!
Nice repair, and a very clean weld. Great job.
Dude you rock. I'm *not* in the trade, but watch a lot of machining and sparky Tubers. You showed many techniques that I did not know about...and I'm talking, This Old Tony, Abom, IC Weld, Classic Weld, etc. Love the attitude!
Thanks bud! I’m glad you liked the video!
Awesome attitude!! Great job by the way!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
What spit out at you was lamination in the pipe you were welding. For those of you who do not know what lamination is, it is a place in sub standard import steel (not necessarily pipe) where because of contamination, the material has layers instead of being one piece. It is usually only in spots, but I have seen patches of lamination that have been several square inches. Lamination is usually indicative of Chinese and Korean made steel. I hope this answered some questions. I have done the same exact repair in the same exact place on an older New Holland bailer, that was made in the 1990's. The difference was that the piece on the end was pressed in and the roller was coated in a heavy rubber sleeve. The pipe roller on the one I repaired was 3/8 inch DOM tubing
Thanks for the insight! I didn’t know the terminology for that! I’ll add it to the vocabulary
@@MeltinMetalAnthony anytime brother. I only know that because my stepdad was a welder in Kaiser steel foundry and he told me when I was welding pipeline for North West pipe, for the Alaskan pipeline and I explained it to him what I was experiencing. His response was, it's that damned Korean steel with all the laminations and contamination in it when it's made. Now obviously we have Chinese steel and Korean steel is far superior to Chinese, but way sub par to any American made steel (fuckin EPA and unions put the steel mills out of business). Since that day I looked up a lot of information on metallurgy and have learned a lot. Keep up the good work. Reach out if you need information. Heating the material up was a great touch, but is usually only necessary if it is an alloy or is thicker than 1/2 or has been heat treated. Great call on the slow cool. No brittle welds. All in all, great video for a lot of diy guys who are wanting to get a little deeper into the suck. I am a retired mechanic, but also worked in the fabrication, pipeline and welding industry, so guys like us have a leg up on many people.
That roller didn't fail because of the quality of the steel, it failed because something is out of alignment
@@RJ1999x good observation. But in response to why the weld shooting back out as he is welding it, that is lamination due to contamination. Usually those bailers don't have any adjustments on the rollers, just bearings that wear out. The only thing that would make something have more tension on that side of where the roller broke, would be due to a belt being of a different length than the other belts. But that is a very good observation. It could have just been metal fatigue also, because the ends where the bearings are, it is holding the lions share of the weight. Each round bail could weigh as much as 2000 pounds, but usually 1400-1700 pounds, so there is a lot of force spinning the hay while the bails are being made. Great comment by the way. It is wonderful when like minded people can share knowledge and experience and opinions and in the end, nobody is angry. Thank God working on equipment has no politics in it, or nothing would get fixed.
@@OtisDavies-cv6ze thanks, I've been farming for 40 yrs, and in my experience the part failing, especially on New Holland machines, is usually something else, not adjusted right, out of alignment, a bearing failure, another part wore out. Just need to look a little further then the obvious
Great video. That blow out can happen because of pressure build up from inside the sealed tube. That air wants to expand as it heats up and has no where to go, thus it can blow out the liquid puddle.
Damn, love your problem solving, and execution… and those “Pop ups” and your sense of humor, always get me laughing!
Well done ANTHONY!
Keep it up!⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⚡️⚡️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thanks buddy!
Love your work ethic
Thanks bud!
I agree with you. Pre-heated material requires less amperage. Nice pick up on that undercutting issue
I learned that fact as well as some techniques that I hope I'll never encounter in my home shop.
Mom really enjoying these videos. Wish I was closer would love to work with you.
Had to subscribe man’s to funny an smart 😂
Like the different types of repairs and the explanation why you do what you do.
Hey I don't know if you'll even see this but I'd recommend getting some angled brass that you can pop onto your vise jaws so you can crank onto shaft.
That’s a great suggestion
@@MeltinMetalAnthony I did not expect a response but ya when I worked at a sawmill that's what we would do so we could clean and key shafts. Sadly if you have to really rak on something you have to wrap the shaft with Emory cloth and stick it in the pipe clamp portion of the vise if you have it.
Ignore the judgmental pricks - you probably do more by noon than they do in a month - appreciate your content - you are thorough
Have a time/effort saver for you Anthony. Use a square instead of a level. The long "leg" of the sq. goes on the tube. The short "leg " of the sq. goes on the broken piece. I have done this on pipe and structural work for 34 yrs in paper mills, chemical plants and hospital boiler rooms.
All the best, Pete 🙂
Welding is a fascinating art. Epic man!
Solid welding job man! Good work 🎉
Great job. Got to keep the crops getting harvested.
Beautiful job!! Thank you for sharing
Truly enjoy your videos man, and really appreciate the honesty. You do great work but just like the rest of use that do this, somedays we are adjusting and learning as we go, and using our knowledge to know when to grind and fix and how to read the puddle and know when to adjust your machine. You show what its actually like in the field preforming and emergency repair. Great job man!
Hi, have you ever used 7015/7016 rods for root pass instead of 6010/6011?
No I should thiu
Only need to if the material needs it
7016 is a very nice running rod. 7018 is rare as hens teeth here in Australia, 16 is our common hi tensile
@@nickwhite6717 wia aust arc 77
By all means I am not a welder but I do my own welding for me. I made a rod heater from a heat lamp and a metal cabinet that was used for boiler water testing reagents. It works very well for me.
Awesomeness
Pair of jack stands and this job would be done in 1 hour. You tube. Gotta love it.
Great job, happy to see you using the optrel. So light and comfortable on top of the clarity it’s hard to go back to anything else for me.
I enjoyed watching - Thanks ! 😎
Great video always look forward to them great work and a happy customer that’s what it’s all about 👍👍
You got that right!
my mom was watching with me she said , your strokes are weak. but your fix is solid for this bailer
That's 100% mission accomplished. Great repair...
Kinda reminds me of those Pakistani videos were the fix broken cv axles and drive shafts buut with English narration😆👏👏👏 great video brother keep"em coming.
For the actual stick welding clips how much do you speed that up so i can it a normal speed?
When welding small bore pipe we run 1/8 6010 root and 3/32 fill, cap in position. That way if you dont have a remote or are away from your machine they run the same amps. I roll everything i can. Can run bigger rod and save your back a little. Cheers, thanks for the infotainment. Good luck out there brother
Well done brother ... Nice catch on that preheat
Great job my man! Welders kick ass!!
Love you and our American farmers! God bless you Anthony!