▼ *IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT VIDEO:* ▼ - A great tutorial about cutting miters and bevels: ruclips.net/video/7aZCdt8Cs8M/видео.html ★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★ Bow featherboards- Uniquely designed to reduce table saw kickback like no other featherboard I have ever used! amzn.to/430ldhv *(BOW is a small, 2-man business and a supporter of our channel. They are worth supporting!)* *My hand tool collection includes premium tools from Bridge City Tool Works:* bridgecitytools.com/ *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission) *Some other useful links:* -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE INEXPENSIVE TOOLS★ - #ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save 10%): bit.ly/3BHYdH7 -123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij -Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK -Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv -Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9 -Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK -Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW -Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7 -Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak -Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI -Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3 -Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6 -Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13 -BOW Featherboards: amzn.to/430ldhv
(If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)
Just thought I'd tell you that after watching one of your videos I bought myself a BOW Featherboard, I love it. Beats making my own and also beats the yellow one I had bought a few years back.
Same here retired industrial sheet metal. I enjoy wood working. Many of my metal skills apply to wood. Lay out and working with machinery. I like his vids for the tips and practices but also the easy way he presents what ever the subject of the day is.
Hi James. You hit another one out of the park here. What fantastic ideas! I'm new to woodworking, so anything and everything I can learn is helpful, and I know that as long as I keep coming back to your channel, I'll always get a steer in the right direction!! Thank you so much! Your videos put me way ahead of the curve compared to what it would take for me to discover these great tips on my own! You ARE the man!
My Wood Shop teacher 60+ years ago taught us about using splines in our miter joints. I’ve been doing this ever sense using the table saw. Your router table setup is great. Will be using that from now on.
I’ve used biscuits for this purpose when I didn’t want an exposed spline and the biscuit cutter largely eliminates the problems of material slippage or alignment to the cutter. I also do like cutting these on the table saw because then I can leave the material flat on the table, supported with a miter gauge to ensure alignment, and just tip the blade over, resting the pointed end of the material against the fence only now it can’t slip under the fence.
There’s a directly proportional relationship between a persons experience level and the number of simple but extremely effective jigs hanging on their shop walls.
I hear ya on that, although it also depends on where you're looking for them. I've had better look with small lumber yards than the big box stores for that kind of thing. Of course, it's not going to be as cheap as the box store.
I love this tip and plan on building a jig like that. I do have a point about your comment on grain direction, however. You state that the mitered end of the board is end grain, but the slot for the spline in long grain. A quick look at the end after slotting will show that both the mitered end and the slot are at 45 degrees to the grain; no difference. I'm not saying that this makes the joint weak, it has been used for many years to strengthen miter joints, but I did want to clarify that grain direction is 45 degrees on either part of the joint. Thanks for all the great videos.
My drawing is not entirely accurate. The end of the board, and within the slot is not strictly end grain OR long grain. The long grain that is introduced is on the spline itself. Frankly, I should have just skipped that part to avoid confusion. The real strength comes from the mechanical component, the added glue surface, and the cross-grain nature of the spline.
I was reading through all the comments to see if someone else had noticed this. I'm glad you did as it saved me the trouble of mentioning it. Again, not that it is a big deal. Still a great idea for strengthening joints, although I am curious about the claims that a glued only miter joint can be just as strong, or stronger?
@@jasone3166 Glue alone on a flat surface will never beat mechanical advantage _in addition_ to glue with more surface area to grab. This is why biscuits are a major part of the industry. This spline is a less labor-intensive but generally stronger take on the same job biscuits do. It's less flashy, so those who spent hundreds on specialized tools may be hard to convince. Different woods, glues and production techniques (skill) factor into strength of joints, so mileage will vary, but given these things being equal, the spline will always make the joint stronger than two flat surfaces alone.
I've been watching your videos for several years now and I've seen many of them, I will say you are very experienced and intelligent, keep the good content coming
I really like simple jigs like this. Thanks for sharing! Also, Scott Walsh has a vid "This Simple Joint is Stronger than a Dovetail" & proved miter joints can be incredibly strong when glued correctly, even without splines.
1:02 Why should it be longgrain when the cut of the spline it also 45deg into the board? It‘s exactly the same grain type like the miter cut. Nevertheless, I agree that splines make boxes stronger. Thanks for the good content James, I appreciate your videos.
My drawing is not entirely accurate. The end of the board, and within the slot is not strictly end grain OR long grain. The long grain that is introduced is on the spline itself. Frankly, I should have just skipped that part to avoid confusion. The real strength comes from the mechanical component, the added glue surface, and the cross-grain nature of the spline.
Thanks for ALL the great information in your video and the feather board information James, both were great. Stay safe and keep up the great videos. Fred.
Your videos are on my list to watch first because they are always good. I think this one is one of the best you have had in a while. Please don't misunderstand all are good but this is better. Thanks.😀
Hey stumpy, I just watched the video about bevels. And putting a spine In them and using a 2 x 6 for a guide. Holy cow, what a super idea? I gotta give that a try thanks so much.
Fascinating tips as per his standards. I believe he has discussed external splines as making the strongest mitered joint with wood adhesive. I would suggest that using a clear epoxy yields a very strong joint also. Untested with other joints at this point. The trick is to secure the joint without squeezing out the resin and leaving it alone until resin cures.
James, so much to learn watching your videos. You have the knack to explain the underlying principles - engineer in me loves it. Keep up the great work.
After watching Pat Sullivan's end grain glue strength video, I put it to the test. I used some red oak, 1' thick, 2-1/2" x 2-1/2" squares. As the oak is so porous, I doubled coated the end grain. It gave the joint a micro tenon effect as the glue wicked into the grain. Result was a joint stronger than long grain glue joint. Long grain will break before the glue fails, end grain will not. I let several guys attempt to break the joint with hand strength, no can do. That was a year or so ago, still carry the joint in my tool box for the occasional test subject. Your miter joint spline set up would work equally well with a table saw with some adaptation.
Great video! I l think splines are a better solution than any other alignment/strengthening systems. I generally like a router and fly cutter rather than end mills for making the cut, but for small work that may be a better solution.
Great idea. I think the only thing I might do differently is to use a couple layers of 3/4" plywood stacked up rather than a piece of framing lumber. Much more stable and accurate in the long term.
Whilst stronger you get ugly ends on the mitres. If I am going to have them exposed I'd make them a feature and do the technique where you cut into the mitre at a 45 degree and put a contrasting piece of wood into the joint. As for the jig I wonder if there is a way to improve it by cutting a groove along the top to accept the router table mitre slider to guide the workpiece along.
A friend of mine had a (BIG) fire in his garage / shop in Arizona. OILY RAGS were the cause. Please consider doing a safety update video on proper use, storage and dispose of old oily rags and nasty paper towels. You are the right guy for the job! Safety First! Thank You much! TS Portland
A first class wash to multiply mitre strength. View this video for a compound interest advantage. This technique would be helpful in the finest and strongest cabinets. My full endorsement. Thank you, Stumpy Nubs for this virtually free, and game-changing video. An additional ‘proof of strength’ would be a great evidence. How do you measure the force needed to destroy a mitre ?
I actually paint my timber that I use for sacrificial boards or in jig/fixture set up. Red is do not cut ever. Yellow is for sacrificial timber like on my Kreg TrackHorses and Project Center. Then I keep them on my rack or in a 5 gallon bucket. It keeps them nice and tight.
the next level of that would be to put stops ahead and behind, so the cut for the spline comes short of the edges of the piece, hiding the spline entirely inside the joint.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
▼ *IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT VIDEO:* ▼
- A great tutorial about cutting miters and bevels: ruclips.net/video/7aZCdt8Cs8M/видео.html
★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★
Bow featherboards- Uniquely designed to reduce table saw kickback like no other featherboard I have ever used! amzn.to/430ldhv
*(BOW is a small, 2-man business and a supporter of our channel. They are worth supporting!)*
*My hand tool collection includes premium tools from Bridge City Tool Works:* bridgecitytools.com/
*Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!*
(If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission)
*Some other useful links:*
-Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/
-Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/
-Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE INEXPENSIVE TOOLS★
- #ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save 10%): bit.ly/3BHYdH7
-123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij
-Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK
-Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv
-Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9
-Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK
-Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW
-Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7
-Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak
-Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI
-Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3
-Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6
-Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13
-BOW Featherboards: amzn.to/430ldhv
(If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)
Just thought I'd tell you that after watching one of your videos I bought myself a BOW Featherboard, I love it. Beats making my own and also beats the yellow one I had bought a few years back.
Great tip. Thanks.
I'm largely a metal worker but I still watch your delightful content.
Same here retired industrial sheet metal. I enjoy wood working. Many of my metal skills apply to wood. Lay out and working with machinery. I like his vids for the tips and practices but also the easy way he presents what ever the subject of the day is.
ha...was going to say exactly the same thing. I mostly work with steel yet still watch this stuff thinking 'you know, I might use that one day....'
@@donhappel9566 I thinking you will and your steel buddy’s will wonder how you came up with it.
Hi James. You hit another one out of the park here. What fantastic ideas! I'm new to woodworking, so anything and everything I can learn is helpful, and I know that as long as I keep coming back to your channel, I'll always get a steer in the right direction!! Thank you so much! Your videos put me way ahead of the curve compared to what it would take for me to discover these great tips on my own! You ARE the man!
"I suggest labeling it." The best advice in the entire video!
Drill a hole in it too. If a piece of timber is hanging on a nail it makes me think I must have kept it for a good reason!
Wow. Novice here. Started this retirement hobby doing small boxes and frames. Awesome idea. Thanks dude. Go Wings
You’re living my dream. I’m 4 years from retirement
You’re the textbook example of “work smarter not harder” philosophy! Great videos, keep them coming! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
James, we can always count on you!! Great info.
My Wood Shop teacher 60+ years ago taught us about using splines in our miter joints. I’ve been doing this ever sense using the table saw. Your router table setup is great. Will be using that from now on.
I’ve used biscuits for this purpose when I didn’t want an exposed spline and the biscuit cutter largely eliminates the problems of material slippage or alignment to the cutter. I also do like cutting these on the table saw because then I can leave the material flat on the table, supported with a miter gauge to ensure alignment, and just tip the blade over, resting the pointed end of the material against the fence only now it can’t slip under the fence.
I got one of those Bow featherboards. It's great. The best featherboard I've ever used.
Never thought about plywood for splines, makes good sense, and simple.
I use my biscuit jointer for splines like you proposed. Easy, fast and precise.
This video is excellent. I like the idea of using both pieces back to back. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Genius!
I always learn something watching your videos.
There’s a directly proportional relationship between a persons experience level and the number of simple but extremely effective jigs hanging on their shop walls.
Once again Stumpy made me feel like a fool! Something so simple and yet I have never though it. Thank you Sir!
Some of the best WW tips on the internet, thanks
Finding leprechauns is easier than finding a straight 2x6
I hear ya on that, although it also depends on where you're looking for them. I've had better look with small lumber yards than the big box stores for that kind of thing. Of course, it's not going to be as cheap as the box store.
Sure it's easy
Just ask one of dem liddell fellas
I have seen hockey sticks straighter than wood at the Depot and other places.
@@brettbarager9101 we have a store in the uk called B and Q. I like to think of the wood that they supply as "bendy and quirky"
@@clemmcguinness1087 then you understand the Home Depot experience here in the states. :)
I love that you support small businesses like that too.
I use my Dewalt biscuit joiner to do the same thing.
Definitely want to try this on a box. And, I love that Bow feather board.
I love this tip and plan on building a jig like that. I do have a point about your comment on grain direction, however. You state that the mitered end of the board is end grain, but the slot for the spline in long grain. A quick look at the end after slotting will show that both the mitered end and the slot are at 45 degrees to the grain; no difference. I'm not saying that this makes the joint weak, it has been used for many years to strengthen miter joints, but I did want to clarify that grain direction is 45 degrees on either part of the joint.
Thanks for all the great videos.
My drawing is not entirely accurate. The end of the board, and within the slot is not strictly end grain OR long grain. The long grain that is introduced is on the spline itself. Frankly, I should have just skipped that part to avoid confusion. The real strength comes from the mechanical component, the added glue surface, and the cross-grain nature of the spline.
I was reading through all the comments to see if someone else had noticed this. I'm glad you did as it saved me the trouble of mentioning it. Again, not that it is a big deal. Still a great idea for strengthening joints, although I am curious about the claims that a glued only miter joint can be just as strong, or stronger?
@@jasone3166 Glue alone on a flat surface will never beat mechanical advantage _in addition_ to glue with more surface area to grab. This is why biscuits are a major part of the industry. This spline is a less labor-intensive but generally stronger take on the same job biscuits do. It's less flashy, so those who spent hundreds on specialized tools may be hard to convince.
Different woods, glues and production techniques (skill) factor into strength of joints, so mileage will vary, but given these things being equal, the spline will always make the joint stronger than two flat surfaces alone.
@@VoltisArt for a drawer box, there's just not enough wood there anyway to get a biscuit into it for a miter joint...
So cool how construction workers and carpenters figure out things to use to make everything easier
Not just smarter , but safer. Excellent upload, James.
Exactly the solution I needed when I needed it, thank you
These kinds of videos are the best. Simple, useful and easily usable.
I’d 2nd the 👍🏻for Bow feather boards..
been working with them and they are super. Got rid of my old ones
I've been watching your videos for several years now and I've seen many of them, I will say you are very experienced and intelligent, keep the good content coming
I really like simple jigs like this. Thanks for sharing! Also, Scott Walsh has a vid "This Simple Joint is Stronger than a Dovetail" & proved miter joints can be incredibly strong when glued correctly, even without splines.
Nice. Beautiful and simple.
Great tip, this sounds like something simple i can easily make and use. Now i just have to remember to do it when i try to make my next box.
Something like this is just common sense...that I never would have thought of on my own. Thanks for sharing.
Great, smart, easy jig and tip. Plunging can completely hide the splines as well.
To my opinion, you’re one of the best wood-teachers on the internet. Tnx for all your fantastic tips and tricks.
1:02 Why should it be longgrain when the cut of the spline it also 45deg into the board? It‘s exactly the same grain type like the miter cut.
Nevertheless, I agree that splines make boxes stronger. Thanks for the good content James, I appreciate your videos.
My drawing is not entirely accurate. The end of the board, and within the slot is not strictly end grain OR long grain. The long grain that is introduced is on the spline itself. Frankly, I should have just skipped that part to avoid confusion. The real strength comes from the mechanical component, the added glue surface, and the cross-grain nature of the spline.
Thanks for ALL the great information in your video and the feather board information James, both were great. Stay safe and keep up the great videos. Fred.
Thanks for the awesome tip. Now I need to get a router and a router table to make miter joints. I love an excuse to buy a new tool. ;-)
Your videos are on my list to watch first because they are always good. I think this one is one of the best you have had in a while. Please don't misunderstand all are good but this is better. Thanks.😀
A great idea. I use it with a horizontal slotting cutter as small straights tend to snap.
Hey stumpy,
I just watched the video about bevels. And putting a spine In them and using a 2 x 6 for a guide. Holy cow, what a super idea? I gotta give that a try thanks so much.
Thank you, Stumpy. Once again, another great video to help us all become better wood workers
Very clever tip, thanks.
Great tip on running grain perpendicular to the slot.
Great tip, thanks for sharing.
Fascinating tips as per his standards. I believe he has discussed external splines as making the strongest mitered joint with wood adhesive. I would suggest that using a clear epoxy yields a very strong joint also. Untested with other joints at this point. The trick is to secure the joint without squeezing out the resin and leaving it alone until resin cures.
Great tip. I will definitely use this tip the next time I cut miters.
James, so much to learn watching your videos. You have the knack to explain the underlying principles - engineer in me loves it. Keep up the great work.
Thank you for the info. I’m going to be making a few boxes soon and that. Will work out well
After watching Pat Sullivan's end grain glue strength video, I put it to the test. I used some red oak, 1' thick, 2-1/2" x 2-1/2" squares. As the oak is so porous, I doubled coated the end grain. It gave the joint a micro tenon effect as the glue wicked into the grain. Result was a joint stronger than long grain glue joint. Long grain will break before the glue fails, end grain will not. I let several guys attempt to break the joint with hand strength, no can do. That was a year or so ago, still carry the joint in my tool box for the occasional test subject. Your miter joint spline set up would work equally well with a table saw with some adaptation.
What a spectacular idea James! Thank you so very much. 😊😊😊😊😊❤❤❤❤❤
Thank you again I started by watching your videos
Thank you for sharing your awesome tip. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy 😊 and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Looks like you could use a 2x4, but great idea. The splines aren't invisible from the ends. Stops might help.
Great tip James thanks for sharing definitely going to try this. Thanks for sharing
You could also use the table saw to cut the grooves for the splines.
"...but the same principle can be applied to the table saw, as well." - from this video. ( @ 01:23 )
What a great idea. Thank you for the excellent tips and tricks for splines.
I use makita biscuit joiner to make splines on mitre joints
I add biscuits to miters. Usually they will be the small FF size.
Awesome tip James! Thank you! 👍👍🔨🔨
Brilliant, Thankyou for this presentation . . . Chris . . . Norwich, England
Love this channel, always something new to learn. Getting ready to be making some frames and would have never thought of this.
Great, practical tip (as we’ve come to expect). Thank you!
You're a dang genius. 😎
Great video! I l think splines are a better solution than any other alignment/strengthening systems. I generally like a router and fly cutter rather than end mills for making the cut, but for small work that may be a better solution.
That is freaking brilliant. Thank you.
Do you ever stop the spline cut a 1/4" from each side of the board to hide the spline? (I thought that was where you were going with this.)
That would be my choice but for demonstration purposes it's easier to go right thru
thanks, that's a really elegant setup!
That featherboard looks cool as frick too, gonna have to check it out.
Great idea. I think the only thing I might do differently is to use a couple layers of 3/4" plywood stacked up rather than a piece of framing lumber. Much more stable and accurate in the long term.
A very useful tip! Thank you, James.
Good tip thanks for sharing it
Thanks for an excellent "how to" video. Will use.
Great way to make stronger boxes!
Whilst stronger you get ugly ends on the mitres. If I am going to have them exposed I'd make them a feature and do the technique where you cut into the mitre at a 45 degree and put a contrasting piece of wood into the joint. As for the jig I wonder if there is a way to improve it by cutting a groove along the top to accept the router table mitre slider to guide the workpiece along.
You did it again so simple but so practical. Julien
Great tip.
A friend of mine had a (BIG) fire in his garage / shop in Arizona. OILY RAGS were the cause. Please consider doing a safety update video on proper use, storage and dispose of old oily rags and nasty paper towels. You are the right guy for the job! Safety First! Thank You much!
TS Portland
ruclips.net/video/QP-1p055tmY/видео.html
"Your joints will thank you."
Trying spline bevels for my arthritic shoulder and knee joints.
You always have good advice. Thank you sir.
Youre always giving me some good ideas, thank you.
Oh... Really fantastic tips, James! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Nice, easy and complete
Simply brilliant!
A first class wash to multiply mitre strength. View this video for a compound interest advantage. This technique would be helpful in the finest and strongest cabinets. My full endorsement. Thank you, Stumpy Nubs for this virtually free, and game-changing video. An additional ‘proof of strength’ would be a great evidence. How do you measure the force needed to destroy a mitre ?
Great tip thanks
I actually paint my timber that I use for sacrificial boards or in jig/fixture set up. Red is do not cut ever. Yellow is for sacrificial timber like on my Kreg TrackHorses and Project Center. Then I keep them on my rack or in a 5 gallon bucket. It keeps them nice and tight.
Brilliant idea you always amaze us with your tips tricks and more💯
This one gets a save for later! Thanks!
Probably one of the greatest tips ever.
Excellent
Another great video. Love all your help.
cut plate jointer slots in your miter intersections
Fascinating
It seems a smaller router plate, sized to the bit would provide more stability. Great tips!
Great stuff! Thanks
Tom Byrne
the next level of that would be to put stops ahead and behind, so the cut for the spline comes short of the edges of the piece, hiding the spline entirely inside the joint.
I thought the same but need to play around with an accurate initial plunge.
@@chrisanthony579 true. at that point, you might be better off making a jig for a handheld router.
Why not enter from what will be the base, but stop short of what will be the top? At least the joint will be hidden from the top.
@@richardoverthrow1358also an option.
A biscuit joiner would pretty much do that if I’m understanding what you mean?
Ingenious, must have a go at that.
I have a basic skills book that lists all kinds of joints. I remember being struck by the name, Blind Splined Miter !
When using plywood for the spline I suggest you cut it so the the laminations are at 45 degrees to the slot to obtain maximum strength.
Love this, James! Thanks!
This is brilliant!!! Thank You