I think these are the only 2 worth talking about beside the dead air xeno. The keymo mount is bomb proof. I've had mine since 2019 well over 3k rounds and aside from my sandman L being heavy, i think it's the most secure and robust system. That said, if i wanted a lighter range toy can for anything other than what I'd use my sandman for, it's Reardon all the way (besides dead air xeno). I'm also rocking a 12.5 so I'll check out the rest of channel to see what your build is.
Keymo is not bomb proof for serious shooters. The teeth on the detent wear down and you have to replace them. If you’re only putting 600 rounds a year down range, it’s a great toy. However I have 8000 last year and replaced not only the detent, but a whole mount because the lugs were also starting to wear. I’ve decided to buy a surefire can at this point.
@@MrMcBeej 1. I'm mainly referencing native not hub. 2. Out of all the QD systems, keymo is by far the most bomb proof. Surefire gets carbon locked more than owners life requiring you to shoot the can off. Plus, depending on the muzzle device (like the war comp or anything that doesn't have the rear ridge) your suppression can be vary greatly. 3. Like I said, way more than 3k and I shoot more guns than just what I use my Sandman for.
@@PrayingPandaIve got a little over 13k on my rc2, only time ive shot it off was when I wanted to see what it would do. The carbon lock issue is less of an actual issue and more of a lack of preventive maintenance.
This whole videos is fantastic for showing all the major differences I was looking for like lengths and weight, even in grams! You're a man of the people!
I like the reardon full cage like you have. It gives fully dispersed flash all around. I think this gives even pressure around the blast chamber relieving pressure off the first baffle. On bolt guns you don’t want an unbalanced flash hider as it could tip your bullet tail. I want uniform blast side ways to assist my can and it works on all of my guns the best. It’s also nice with different calibers as it’s one real cap as a standard. So no need to have to change out your rear caps per gun.
The majority of the turbulence from the blast interacts with the suppressor or muzzle device well after the bullet is out of the barrel. There will be some deviation whether there is a suppressor, muzzle device, flash hider, bare barrel, ...etc, but I only noticed about 3/4" POI at 50 yards between the flash hider unsuppressed and the flash hider + suppressor with the same ammo. So I just zeroed with the can on.
The biggest downfall to the rearden device and other threaded taper mounts are the exposure of the finer threads. If you mess up those threads your can will not go on well. ASR has coarser threads (more durable). I invested heavily into keymo but have other mounting systems.
Kind of mystified how this is the only useful video I've seen on the subject when people are pinning and welding a MD or waiting for tax stamps so it seems like it would be a more researched comparison.
The weight of the adapter was something I never even considered before I mounted the suppressor up for the first time and immediately felt the change in balance. I waited just under 6 months for my stamp and was researching on and off for about 4 months before I bought the Dead Air components. I don't know why, but I couldn't find much on the Rearden Atlas until about a week before I got the suppressor in-hand.
I recently switched to the Rearden system from the YHM Phantom qd ratchet system. The Rearden is a substantial improvement over the YHM. I noticed an improvement in accuracy as well as a reduction in weight. Qd systems with a locking mechanism are good for giving you the peace of mind that your can won’t come loose but ultimately I don’t think they’re needed. If you get the Atlas hand tight once you fire a couple of rounds the metal expands & is not going anywhere. Also I got my muzzle devices from Liberty Precision Machine. They make excellent Atlas-compatible muzzle devices.
Ha!! I marked my KeyMo with green paint also. It just made sense to do that. I use Xeno and KeyMo. The KeyMo is always impossible to get off at the range after 60+ rounds. It ends up unscrewing at the hub mount.
I can understand the length and weight arguments .. in that regard the Rearden wins for sure. Some concerns for me though are the can not loosening while shooting as well as being able to quickly take the suppressor off of one rifle and put it on another while at the range ... I think in this regard the DeadAir wins.
I know next to nothing about suppressors and muzzle devices as I am trying to educate myself. I believe the Reaeden Muzzle devices and Atlas use the Plan B ecosystem. The Plan B system seems to be a cost effective, simple to use, and widely supported system. The KeyMod system seems more complicated to use and you have to double check to see if you actually have properly tighten the suppressor. Once again I have little experience, but I'm looking for others perspective and experience before I purchase a suppressor/muzzle device.
That's my takeaway as well. The KeyMo has a place, and is definitely more "quick" than the Atlas (which uses the Plan B). I am guessing a lot of the misalignment issues people have noted come from people either not gingerly cranking the suppressor into place or from the collar not being in the correct starting position prior to starting the process. Regarding cost, I can sell my KeyMo adapter second-hand (keeping the muzzle devices) and use the funds to buy both a rearden muzzle device and Atlas new. Haven't sold my KeyMo yet as I might want to use it on a K can down the line, but it's a substantial difference. But the biggest complaint I had was simply weight differences between the two.
Weight and length are also an issue. Keymo is a heavy locking collar. That Rrarden is a tapered mount. Its shorter and lighter. We are talking ounces. But still its weight on the end of a rifle
I'm trying to figure out what system to go with at moment. I was leaning towards the Xeno, or Readen. I like that Xeno is LH thread so it tightens you muzzle device to the barrel. But the Readen has triple options of muzzle devices. I completely ruled out Keymicro because it is mechanical. Just something else to fail, another part that can & will eventually wear out or break. Know of any other companies that make Xeno compatible muzzle devices? As of moment I only have a da wolfman but I can shoot it on my cmmg dissent MKG9, & 300 bo, 7.62x39 & 556 ars. My next can will be a 30 cal so I will stick with same attachment system
@@maxcole3930 my gut is telling me the "Plan B" style used in the Atlas is more future-proof than the Xeno, but there are aftermarket versions for both and while I've never used a xeno, I've heard good things. Regarding the thread direction, LH is nice, but if you properly rocksett your muzzle device and get a good seat on the chamfer when installing your can, it won't come off that seat while the can is hot.
Great video. I am in the process of switching out all my Keymo mounts and adaptors to Reardon Atlas’. So much weight savings. Every gram or ounce counts!
Good video. It's a little bit like comparing the technology of a 2015 Camaro vs 2022 Mustang. Now compare Dead Air Xeno vs Rearden Atlas (both launched in 2022) and they would be the same generation. Keymo was the hot new thing everyone wanted when it launched 9 years ago.
The Keymo and the Q Plan B were both available years ago. The Rearden mounting is essentially the same as the Plan B, plus a spot to get a wrench on the muzzle device. So that 2022 Mustang is using the same tech as the 2015, but with some slightly different body panels. The Xeno seems like a decent idea and more similar in design and weight, but the ecosystem is not as broadly developed as the Plan B that the Rearden uses. Ultimately, this video is more about highlighting the stark differences in design and use philosophy, not so much about choosing the closest products and comparing the nuanced differences.
Got my first can ( q trash panda ) in April and I’m really digging the cherry bomb taper mounting system. As long as you install it correctly there’s no need to worry about it breaking loose with the suppressor. I’m looking at getting the OCL polonium and will definitely be going with the Plan B system. I see no advantage in the QD systems that allow a maybe 3-5 second faster attachment of the suppressor when you’re constantly worrying about if the suppressor is actually tight on the gun or not
@@msquared9605 I don't have experience with either the full size polonium or the K. I will say that in the class I just attended, two guys had surefire suppressors, one was a full size and the other was a mini. The full size suppressed both flash and sound much better than the mini, but the mini did a pretty solid job of taking the edge off the concussion, despite the gas flame that ejected from the front of the can with each trigger pull. Both were on sub-16" barreled uppers. (My Enticer S suppressed better than both, btw.) That said, 5.56 is still plenty loud, even with the best suppressors available. Therefore I'm mostly concerned with taking the edge off so I don't entirely blow out my hearing if I have to rip off a handful of rounds indoors without earpro.
@@rjg02005 good points. I’m still waiting to decide between polonium and rc2 but one being under half the price is a pretty good selling point lol my 30cal trash panda suppresses my 16” 5.56 well under hearing safe so I’m not all that worried about trying to get every bit of performance out of a 5.56 dedicated can. Especially for the money, I don’t think it’s possible to be dissatisfied with anything from Otter Creek
Great video. I made a crappier version of this on my phone for a customer and plan to make a few more for my customers. My cutting surface is green, though. haha
Which muzzle device is better to use for a suppressor? The Rearden flash hider or muzzle brake? I’m unsure of those 2 which one to pick. I’m definitely going to be buying an Atlas thread adapter. I’m just unsure which muzzle device works best for a suppressor. I’ve heard a muzzle brake works better but wanted to ask in the comment section. Thanks!
If you've got a suppressor mounted, I don't think it matters much either way. I'd choose more based on the shooting you plan to do when you don't have a can on the rifle. If there is a possibility of indoors or in proximity to other people (within about 6' or so) I'd recommend a flash hider. If it's a range-toy only, then a brake is great for that extra bit of recoil reduction.
@@rjg02005 hey I appreciate the response!! I do plan to keep it on there most of the time and then I didn’t know if the muzzle break disperse the gas in the suppressor better or not! Thank you!
@@WantDaSmoke a direct mount will give you the most internal volume. People say a brake will act as a "sacrificial baffle" and prolong your suppressor life but I don't think that's very realistic for what most shooters are able to put through their guns in a lifetime.
So the Rearden is turning it into a direct thread mount? why not just direct thread the can? Why deal with the mount at all if you aren't going to be QD attaching?
Two reasons: 1) The suppressor I'm using is a .30 caliber can that's shared between my 5.56 and my 300 BLK (and will later be on a .308 or some other .30 caliber rifle). Barrel thread pitch on those guns is different so I'd have to swap the adapter each time I move the suppressor to another gun. 2) The 5.56 will also be used occasionally without the suppressor, and I'd much prefer a flash hider over a bare muzzle when unsuppressed. If I was going to have a suppressor dedicated to a specific upper, I'd direct thread it to save even more weight, cost, and length.
With the Reardon, If you were to pick up the rifle by the can; say you were pulling it out of the safe, Is it easy for the can to start backing off the threads?
When you attach your atlas mount to your can do you add any rocksett or loctite to the threads? My reardens lock down so good that the can unthreads itself when trying to switch hosts
@@fnjay24 I rocksett all of my muzzle devices to the barrel and put a tiny bit of rocksett in the mount-to-can threads. The threads on the can side probably won't need it if you torque the mount down properly, but I did it for added peace of mind because I don't really plan on swapping mounts that often going forward.
@@cadedavis2188 rearden recommends rocksett and 15-25 ft*lb torque between the muzzle device and the barrel. Once the adapter is mounted into the suppressor, just hand tighten the can onto the mount and it'll stick plenty. I've taken mine out a few times, including one class, and it has always been a deliberate action to remove the can from the seat on the muzzle device.
@@2CatchaRedditR I guess I didn't explain this because you're not the first person to ask. Primary reason: I (currently) only have one suppressor and I move it between 3 rifles, 2 are in 5.56 and one is in 300 blk. Thread pitch on the barrels is different so instead of swapping direct thread adapters, I use the QD. Secondary reason: sometimes I shoot unsuppressed due to size considerations or traveling out of state. Shooting with no muzzle device is unpleasant compared to a flash hider.
Reardon for the win. Basically all my cans are direct thread. There fkr i just bout one 1/2x28 , 1.375x24 hub.mount so i can just put all my 30cal cans on my 556. Other than that i can direct thread all my 30cal cans to everything else i got. I almost bought a rearden md for each pew pew plus the atlas then i remmber i only have one setup i have to cater to which is 556
@@cameronmills3414 I'm liking the idea of direct thread more and more. I'll be direct threading a can to a short 300 blk in the future. If the Keymo and direct thread are totally opposite ends of the spectrum, the Rearden is right in the middle.
@@deanmicheljunioralexis2817 i have an FHD and R2S (flash hiders) and a SPB (brake), all by rearden mfg, all mating to the Rearden Atlas in titanium. Anything marketed as being compatible with the "Plan B" mount should work.
Not a fan of those threaded-QA can mounts. Had a Plan B’s threading get damaged. They always seem loose and sloppy. Or you gotta force them off after they’ve carbon locked. Reardens only benefit is the weight but is negligible compared to the benefits of the Dead Air system. Can’t help but correct you on the length of the Flash hider/comp comparisons: if you want the best comp/flash hider cutting them in half doesn’t do you any good. If weight savings is your goal use a direct can mount
100% agree with your point on using direct thread if the can is essentially dedicated to one rifle. Because I'm moving it between a two firearms, a 1/2-28 and a 5/8-24, I'd rather have the adapter remain threaded to the suppressor as opposed having to remove that every time I wanted to change guns. I'm interested to see how sticky the Rearden system is. For the moment, I'd much prefer have it get carbon locked on rather than to have it walk off and risk destroying my suppressor. And that said, I do really like the ease of use of the KeyMo, and haven't sold my kit, so who knows if I'll change my mind after I get significant time with the Rearden. Likewise, if I end up getting a dedicated 5.56 can, it'll probably be directly attached.
@@rjg02005 Would add that the other problem with the DeadAir system is that it’s VERY expensive. .30 cal muzzle device (from Lantec) cost me about $150 and the KeyMo is a cool $200+.
@@rccaraddict294 I only shot about 150 rounds through my 12.5". No issues at all - though I wouldn't expect any at that low count. I had a bit of trouble removing the suppressor when it was hot, but this is expected with any mount. Once it was cool-ish it came off easy. I put 20 rounds through my 20" and ended up pulling off the flash hider with the suppressor (this was totally my fault for not wanting to add another washer and torque the flash hider when timing it). A compilation of shooting footage is on the channel. ruclips.net/video/ffKDfGc5yvQ/видео.html
Unless you're really running drills and shooting a lot, I find the surefire and dead air mounting methods overkill. If you're worried about the issues associated with direct thread, the taper mounts are more than enough.
The kicker for me was realizing that Keymo on an S-Ti is about the same length and heavier than an L-Ti with the Rearden setup. Check out the ddc zilch mount, it’s the same Rearden style but even shorter.
so we are talking about grams of weight, then proceeds to show rifle that has back up iron sights and flashlight that are rarely if ever used. 💁🏽 I love my keymo. turning that rear mount 11 times wild to me.
@@2657296 everything's a compromise. Keymo is definitely quicker, but for my intended use, I don't think rapid attachment or detachment of a suppressor is going to win the day.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I think these are the only 2 worth talking about beside the dead air xeno. The keymo mount is bomb proof. I've had mine since 2019 well over 3k rounds and aside from my sandman L being heavy, i think it's the most secure and robust system. That said, if i wanted a lighter range toy can for anything other than what I'd use my sandman for, it's Reardon all the way (besides dead air xeno).
I'm also rocking a 12.5 so I'll check out the rest of channel to see what your build is.
Keymo is not bomb proof for serious shooters. The teeth on the detent wear down and you have to replace them. If you’re only putting 600 rounds a year down range, it’s a great toy. However I have 8000 last year and replaced not only the detent, but a whole mount because the lugs were also starting to wear. I’ve decided to buy a surefire can at this point.
@@MrMcBeej 1. I'm mainly referencing native not hub. 2. Out of all the QD systems, keymo is by far the most bomb proof. Surefire gets carbon locked more than owners life requiring you to shoot the can off. Plus, depending on the muzzle device (like the war comp or anything that doesn't have the rear ridge) your suppression can be vary greatly. 3. Like I said, way more than 3k and I shoot more guns than just what I use my Sandman for.
@@MrMcBeej good luck with that
@@PrayingPandaIve got a little over 13k on my rc2, only time ive shot it off was when I wanted to see what it would do. The carbon lock issue is less of an actual issue and more of a lack of preventive maintenance.
@@MrMcBeejNot sure what happened to yours, but I did far more than 8K rounds last year not to mention this year and mine hasn't had a problem.
This whole videos is fantastic for showing all the major differences I was looking for like lengths and weight, even in grams! You're a man of the people!
I like the reardon full cage like you have.
It gives fully dispersed flash all around.
I think this gives even pressure around the blast chamber relieving pressure off the first baffle.
On bolt guns you don’t want an unbalanced flash hider as it could tip your bullet tail.
I want uniform blast side ways to assist my can and it works on all of my guns the best.
It’s also nice with different calibers as it’s one real cap as a standard. So no need to have to change out your rear caps per gun.
The majority of the turbulence from the blast interacts with the suppressor or muzzle device well after the bullet is out of the barrel. There will be some deviation whether there is a suppressor, muzzle device, flash hider, bare barrel, ...etc, but I only noticed about 3/4" POI at 50 yards between the flash hider unsuppressed and the flash hider + suppressor with the same ammo.
So I just zeroed with the can on.
The biggest downfall to the rearden device and other threaded taper mounts are the exposure of the finer threads. If you mess up those threads your can will not go on well. ASR has coarser threads (more durable). I invested heavily into keymo but have other mounting systems.
Kind of mystified how this is the only useful video I've seen on the subject when people are pinning and welding a MD or waiting for tax stamps so it seems like it would be a more researched comparison.
The weight of the adapter was something I never even considered before I mounted the suppressor up for the first time and immediately felt the change in balance.
I waited just under 6 months for my stamp and was researching on and off for about 4 months before I bought the Dead Air components. I don't know why, but I couldn't find much on the Rearden Atlas until about a week before I got the suppressor in-hand.
Agree
I recently switched to the Rearden system from the YHM Phantom qd ratchet system. The Rearden is a substantial improvement over the YHM. I noticed an improvement in accuracy as well as a reduction in weight.
Qd systems with a locking mechanism are good for giving you the peace of mind that your can won’t come loose but ultimately I don’t think they’re needed. If you get the Atlas hand tight once you fire a couple of rounds the metal expands & is not going anywhere.
Also I got my muzzle devices from Liberty Precision Machine. They make excellent Atlas-compatible muzzle devices.
I use Rearden on every can I own. They are literally the best. No debate.
Ha!! I marked my KeyMo with green paint also. It just made sense to do that.
I use Xeno and KeyMo. The KeyMo is always impossible to get off at the range after 60+ rounds. It ends up unscrewing at the hub mount.
I can understand the length and weight arguments .. in that regard the Rearden wins for sure. Some concerns for me though are the can not loosening while shooting as well as being able to quickly take the suppressor off of one rifle and put it on another while at the range ... I think in this regard the DeadAir wins.
I know next to nothing about suppressors and muzzle devices as I am trying to educate myself. I believe the Reaeden Muzzle devices and Atlas use the Plan B ecosystem. The Plan B system seems to be a cost effective, simple to use, and widely supported system. The KeyMod system seems more complicated to use and you have to double check to see if you actually have properly tighten the suppressor. Once again I have little experience, but I'm looking for others perspective and experience before I purchase a suppressor/muzzle device.
That's my takeaway as well.
The KeyMo has a place, and is definitely more "quick" than the Atlas (which uses the Plan B). I am guessing a lot of the misalignment issues people have noted come from people either not gingerly cranking the suppressor into place or from the collar not being in the correct starting position prior to starting the process.
Regarding cost, I can sell my KeyMo adapter second-hand (keeping the muzzle devices) and use the funds to buy both a rearden muzzle device and Atlas new. Haven't sold my KeyMo yet as I might want to use it on a K can down the line, but it's a substantial difference.
But the biggest complaint I had was simply weight differences between the two.
Weight and length are also an issue. Keymo is a heavy locking collar. That Rrarden is a tapered mount. Its shorter and lighter. We are talking ounces. But still its weight on the end of a rifle
I'm trying to figure out what system to go with at moment. I was leaning towards the Xeno, or Readen. I like that Xeno is LH thread so it tightens you muzzle device to the barrel. But the Readen has triple options of muzzle devices. I completely ruled out Keymicro because it is mechanical. Just something else to fail, another part that can & will eventually wear out or break. Know of any other companies that make Xeno compatible muzzle devices? As of moment I only have a da wolfman but I can shoot it on my cmmg dissent MKG9, & 300 bo, 7.62x39 & 556 ars. My next can will be a 30 cal so I will stick with same attachment system
@@maxcole3930 my gut is telling me the "Plan B" style used in the Atlas is more future-proof than the Xeno, but there are aftermarket versions for both and while I've never used a xeno, I've heard good things.
Regarding the thread direction, LH is nice, but if you properly rocksett your muzzle device and get a good seat on the chamfer when installing your can, it won't come off that seat while the can is hot.
Ok good to know thanks. I do like Readen options better for sure. Only thing Xeno had was LH threading
Great video. I am in the process of switching out all my Keymo mounts and adaptors to Reardon Atlas’. So much weight savings. Every gram or ounce counts!
Great video thank you
Good video. It's a little bit like comparing the technology of a 2015 Camaro vs 2022 Mustang. Now compare Dead Air Xeno vs Rearden Atlas (both launched in 2022) and they would be the same generation. Keymo was the hot new thing everyone wanted when it launched 9 years ago.
The Keymo and the Q Plan B were both available years ago. The Rearden mounting is essentially the same as the Plan B, plus a spot to get a wrench on the muzzle device. So that 2022 Mustang is using the same tech as the 2015, but with some slightly different body panels.
The Xeno seems like a decent idea and more similar in design and weight, but the ecosystem is not as broadly developed as the Plan B that the Rearden uses.
Ultimately, this video is more about highlighting the stark differences in design and use philosophy, not so much about choosing the closest products and comparing the nuanced differences.
Got my first can ( q trash panda ) in April and I’m really digging the cherry bomb taper mounting system. As long as you install it correctly there’s no need to worry about it breaking loose with the suppressor. I’m looking at getting the OCL polonium and will definitely be going with the Plan B system. I see no advantage in the QD systems that allow a maybe 3-5 second faster attachment of the suppressor when you’re constantly worrying about if the suppressor is actually tight on the gun or not
My next can is likely to be a Polonium K.
I did a class this past weekend and the can came off the flash hider without an issue at the end.
@@rjg02005 any opinion on if polonium or polonium k would be better on 11.5”?
@@msquared9605 I don't have experience with either the full size polonium or the K. I will say that in the class I just attended, two guys had surefire suppressors, one was a full size and the other was a mini. The full size suppressed both flash and sound much better than the mini, but the mini did a pretty solid job of taking the edge off the concussion, despite the gas flame that ejected from the front of the can with each trigger pull. Both were on sub-16" barreled uppers.
(My Enticer S suppressed better than both, btw.)
That said, 5.56 is still plenty loud, even with the best suppressors available. Therefore I'm mostly concerned with taking the edge off so I don't entirely blow out my hearing if I have to rip off a handful of rounds indoors without earpro.
@@rjg02005 good points. I’m still waiting to decide between polonium and rc2 but one being under half the price is a pretty good selling point lol my 30cal trash panda suppresses my 16” 5.56 well under hearing safe so I’m not all that worried about trying to get every bit of performance out of a 5.56 dedicated can. Especially for the money, I don’t think it’s possible to be dissatisfied with anything from Otter Creek
So essentially the Keymo hub adapter allows you to use your keymo muzzle device with other suppressor brands that has the 1.375x28 thread pitch?
1.375x24 HUB, yes. I don't mind the KeyMo, but I sold my adapter and will probably sell my muzzle devices down the line.
@ are you trying to stay away from dead air line up?
Great video. I made a crappier version of this on my phone for a customer and plan to make a few more for my customers. My cutting surface is green, though. haha
Which muzzle device is better to use for a suppressor? The Rearden flash hider or muzzle brake? I’m unsure of those 2 which one to pick. I’m definitely going to be buying an Atlas thread adapter. I’m just unsure which muzzle device works best for a suppressor. I’ve heard a muzzle brake works better but wanted to ask in the comment section. Thanks!
If you've got a suppressor mounted, I don't think it matters much either way. I'd choose more based on the shooting you plan to do when you don't have a can on the rifle.
If there is a possibility of indoors or in proximity to other people (within about 6' or so) I'd recommend a flash hider. If it's a range-toy only, then a brake is great for that extra bit of recoil reduction.
@@rjg02005 hey I appreciate the response!! I do plan to keep it on there most of the time and then I didn’t know if the muzzle break disperse the gas in the suppressor better or not! Thank you!
@@WantDaSmoke a direct mount will give you the most internal volume. People say a brake will act as a "sacrificial baffle" and prolong your suppressor life but I don't think that's very realistic for what most shooters are able to put through their guns in a lifetime.
Fantastic video.
So the Rearden is turning it into a direct thread mount? why not just direct thread the can? Why deal with the mount at all if you aren't going to be QD attaching?
Two reasons:
1) The suppressor I'm using is a .30 caliber can that's shared between my 5.56 and my 300 BLK (and will later be on a .308 or some other .30 caliber rifle). Barrel thread pitch on those guns is different so I'd have to swap the adapter each time I move the suppressor to another gun.
2) The 5.56 will also be used occasionally without the suppressor, and I'd much prefer a flash hider over a bare muzzle when unsuppressed.
If I was going to have a suppressor dedicated to a specific upper, I'd direct thread it to save even more weight, cost, and length.
Taper mount is not direct thread. The taper won't let the can back off like direct thread does
With the Reardon, If you were to pick up the rifle by the can; say you were pulling it out of the safe, Is it easy for the can to start backing off the threads?
It's pretty-well locked on by friction. I've not been using mine heavily, but it's never given a hint of loosening unless I'm trying.
When you attach your atlas mount to your can do you add any rocksett or loctite to the threads? My reardens lock down so good that the can unthreads itself when trying to switch hosts
@@fnjay24 I rocksett all of my muzzle devices to the barrel and put a tiny bit of rocksett in the mount-to-can threads.
The threads on the can side probably won't need it if you torque the mount down properly, but I did it for added peace of mind because I don't really plan on swapping mounts that often going forward.
Does the atlas mount need to be torque certain lbs when attaching the can?
@@cadedavis2188 rearden recommends rocksett and 15-25 ft*lb torque between the muzzle device and the barrel. Once the adapter is mounted into the suppressor, just hand tighten the can onto the mount and it'll stick plenty.
I've taken mine out a few times, including one class, and it has always been a deliberate action to remove the can from the seat on the muzzle device.
Also, I used a tiny bit of rocksett between the adapter and my suppressor body. Probably not necessary, but it's added peace of mind.
Why attach a an Atlas and taper device instead of just direct thread mounting to the barrel?
@@2CatchaRedditR I guess I didn't explain this because you're not the first person to ask.
Primary reason: I (currently) only have one suppressor and I move it between 3 rifles, 2 are in 5.56 and one is in 300 blk. Thread pitch on the barrels is different so instead of swapping direct thread adapters, I use the QD.
Secondary reason: sometimes I shoot unsuppressed due to size considerations or traveling out of state. Shooting with no muzzle device is unpleasant compared to a flash hider.
Good info. Thanks
Reardon for the win. Basically all my cans are direct thread. There fkr i just bout one 1/2x28 , 1.375x24 hub.mount so i can just put all my 30cal cans on my 556. Other than that i can direct thread all my 30cal cans to everything else i got. I almost bought a rearden md for each pew pew plus the atlas then i remmber i only have one setup i have to cater to which is 556
@@cameronmills3414 I'm liking the idea of direct thread more and more. I'll be direct threading a can to a short 300 blk in the future. If the Keymo and direct thread are totally opposite ends of the spectrum, the Rearden is right in the middle.
The A2 flash will work with the rearden ?
Nope. Just used in the video as a size comparison to the Readen and DeadAir flash hiders.
Do you know which one works?
I have the enticer s and an a2 flash hider
Thanks for the video, too!
These things can be very confusing 😕
@@deanmicheljunioralexis2817 i have an FHD and R2S (flash hiders) and a SPB (brake), all by rearden mfg, all mating to the Rearden Atlas in titanium.
Anything marketed as being compatible with the "Plan B" mount should work.
Not a fan of those threaded-QA can mounts. Had a Plan B’s threading get damaged. They always seem loose and sloppy. Or you gotta force them off after they’ve carbon locked. Reardens only benefit is the weight but is negligible compared to the benefits of the Dead Air system. Can’t help but correct you on the length of the Flash hider/comp comparisons: if you want the best comp/flash hider cutting them in half doesn’t do you any good. If weight savings is your goal use a direct can mount
100% agree with your point on using direct thread if the can is essentially dedicated to one rifle. Because I'm moving it between a two firearms, a 1/2-28 and a 5/8-24, I'd rather have the adapter remain threaded to the suppressor as opposed having to remove that every time I wanted to change guns.
I'm interested to see how sticky the Rearden system is. For the moment, I'd much prefer have it get carbon locked on rather than to have it walk off and risk destroying my suppressor.
And that said, I do really like the ease of use of the KeyMo, and haven't sold my kit, so who knows if I'll change my mind after I get significant time with the Rearden. Likewise, if I end up getting a dedicated 5.56 can, it'll probably be directly attached.
@@rjg02005 Would add that the other problem with the DeadAir system is that it’s VERY expensive. .30 cal muzzle device (from Lantec) cost me about $150 and the KeyMo is a cool $200+.
@@rjg02005how sticky did it get ? Any update ?
@@rccaraddict294 I only shot about 150 rounds through my 12.5". No issues at all - though I wouldn't expect any at that low count. I had a bit of trouble removing the suppressor when it was hot, but this is expected with any mount. Once it was cool-ish it came off easy.
I put 20 rounds through my 20" and ended up pulling off the flash hider with the suppressor (this was totally my fault for not wanting to add another washer and torque the flash hider when timing it).
A compilation of shooting footage is on the channel. ruclips.net/video/ffKDfGc5yvQ/видео.html
Unless you're really running drills and shooting a lot, I find the surefire and dead air mounting methods overkill. If you're worried about the issues associated with direct thread, the taper mounts are more than enough.
The kicker for me was realizing that Keymo on an S-Ti is about the same length and heavier than an L-Ti with the Rearden setup.
Check out the ddc zilch mount, it’s the same Rearden style but even shorter.
I'm looking forward to picking one up! I saw it announced a few days after I got my rearden mind in the mail.
so we are talking about grams of weight, then proceeds to show rifle that has back up iron sights and flashlight that are rarely if ever used. 💁🏽 I love my keymo. turning that rear mount 11 times wild to me.
@@2657296 everything's a compromise. Keymo is definitely quicker, but for my intended use, I don't think rapid attachment or detachment of a suppressor is going to win the day.
Someone needs to go to the gym
* Creatine supplementation intensifies *
Keymo is just better if you are not sitting on a bench all day.