Hi Adam, nice video. It reminds me of my X-Type, the same as yours, but with beige seats. A beautiful car but only after some work and painful surprises (metal particles in the fuel and the whole system...). I can make a few comments It is not necessary to turn ON/OFF the ignition to prime the fuel line and filter as there is no low pressure pump in the tank. In fact, there is only a low/high pressure pump on the engine that does all the work. When I replaced the fuel filter, I used to fill it with a syringe before reconnecting the fuel lines. The engine would start and run immediately. If you think the engine temperature is too low (gauge halfway between Cold and middle all the time), it's usually because of the oil cooler thermostat. Don't buy the cheapest generic one, buy a good Ford thermostat (Ford 1128018 / XS7Q 6L635 AE ). You can find tutorials in Ford Mondeo TDCI forums. I managed to avoid draining the engine coolant by a quick swap.
Very nice, you don't forget to bleed a clutch master cylinder, I didn't pay attention to it when I was bleeding my brakes. I had to bleed it later, since I started feeling a kind of gap when releasing the clutch pedal. Thumb up!
Yep, that is one thing that is different with diesel engines. You don't want to run out of fuel or introduce air in the line. But it's all fine and now running. Happy new year!
Pretty much every diesel filter is good to pre fill to the brim before hoses are put back. It will help to keep engine running. And when it starts up first time after filter replacement I'm used to keep rpm up like 2k and keep them there like minute or so. This usually helps engine to run when it starts to sutter. Third line to the filter is not for the air. It is fuel return back to the filter. That ford engine is the nastiest engine to bleed what I have enconterd when injector pipes are have been even just loosened up. When that happens. It doesn't matter what you do to get the air out. Only way to bleed the rail and injectors is to spin the engine via starter and that takes time....
Great to see the prep jobs getting ticked off and the car closer to the road again. Personally I wouldn't change the oil again after such a short interval, I'd give it about 1000km including some hot runs in a lower gear to help shift any sludge, and add half a litre of Diesel fuel or ATF as a flush before dropping the oil. They you're all set for 10K / annual oil changes in future or whatever.
I don’t know if you are aware of him but there is a tuber guy called Car Wizard who has just got himself a 1995 V12 jag. Nice looking car. He is doing work on it and it may be of interest to you.
I cracked the bleed pipe on the Clutch Slave Cylinder ,, (very easy done when you don't know what your doing ) break fluid leaked into the clutch, and boy does is slip... :( cheers for the video .. loads of info
@@LivingWithAClassic 80 euro for the pipe and I think it also damaged the connection to the slave cylinder , so its weeping brake fluid,, I might have to get the experted in :( But this is why I like these cars,, you can do most the work yourself with a little bit of caution :)
A few years ago my garage said car needed new brake hoses, so they were replaced, going to the supermarket about a week later approached a roundabout put my brakes on pedal went to the floor, F**K NOT GOOD, i managed to pull up just without hitting an almost new car in front of me, Limped to the garage burst New brake hose probably Chinese rubbish!!!! 😡😡 Brake hoses SHOULD be tested too FAR beyond the pressure expected of them, TEST them to DESTRUCTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
diesel filter must be bleeding befort start motor, because x-type don't have electric pump in rezervoir ! You will broke high injection pump like this ! It is not ok.
Don't do like this again. Put the filter, bleeding and after put the line. Chec and start the motor and will be ok. You need to not have air in the line.
Excellent progress on a beautiful estate
Thanks Rick!
Nice work Adam, there is always a mystery to be solved with your vids. thanks
Glad you liked it!
Hi Adam, nice video.
It reminds me of my X-Type, the same as yours, but with beige seats. A beautiful car but only after some work and painful surprises (metal particles in the fuel and the whole system...).
I can make a few comments
It is not necessary to turn ON/OFF the ignition to prime the fuel line and filter as there is no low pressure pump in the tank. In fact, there is only a low/high pressure pump on the engine that does all the work. When I replaced the fuel filter, I used to fill it with a syringe before reconnecting the fuel lines. The engine would start and run immediately.
If you think the engine temperature is too low (gauge halfway between Cold and middle all the time), it's usually because of the oil cooler thermostat. Don't buy the cheapest generic one, buy a good Ford thermostat (Ford 1128018 / XS7Q 6L635 AE ). You can find tutorials in Ford Mondeo TDCI forums. I managed to avoid draining the engine coolant by a quick swap.
Very nice, you don't forget to bleed a clutch master cylinder, I didn't pay attention to it when I was bleeding my brakes. I had to bleed it later, since I started feeling a kind of gap when releasing the clutch pedal. Thumb up!
That's a great tool for bleeding the brakes, thanks for showing a different technique! I will have to look into getting one of those.
It’s great! I will be modifying a few extra older style Jaguar caps so I can bleed those brakes also
Yep, that is one thing that is different with diesel engines. You don't want to run out of fuel or introduce air in the line. But it's all fine and now running. Happy new year!
Yes they don’t like that at all
Great stuff Adam .! Always a solution never a problem !
Exactly 😊
Pretty much every diesel filter is good to pre fill to the brim before hoses are put back. It will help to keep engine running. And when it starts up first time after filter replacement I'm used to keep rpm up like 2k and keep them there like minute or so. This usually helps engine to run when it starts to sutter. Third line to the filter is not for the air. It is fuel return back to the filter. That ford engine is the nastiest engine to bleed what I have enconterd when injector pipes are have been even just loosened up. When that happens. It doesn't matter what you do to get the air out. Only way to bleed the rail and injectors is to spin the engine via starter and that takes time....
Brake fluid pressure replacer for the win 😀
I hope I never need to touch the injectors on it. It’s a very “agricultural” engine but I hope it will be reliable
Great video. Looking forward to the welding 🙂
Thanks me too!
Yes, my Ford F250 is diesel and the oil gets REALLY black. I change it every 5,000 miles and it takes 4 gallons. $$. Great work, and Happy New Year!
Oh that’s a lot of oil! Happy new year to you too!
Happy New Year!
Happy new year to you too!
that's, a nice looking jaguar you have.
Nice job. Love this car
I’m glad you like it!
Great video, looking forward to the next episode!
Thanks!
New year, new car, new carrer. Cool. ANy news on the Wolseley yet Adam.
I have the parts for it just waiting for the weather to get a little better
Great to see the prep jobs getting ticked off and the car closer to the road again.
Personally I wouldn't change the oil again after such a short interval, I'd give it about 1000km including some hot runs in a lower gear to help shift any sludge, and add half a litre of Diesel fuel or ATF as a flush before dropping the oil. They you're all set for 10K / annual oil changes in future or whatever.
Oil is pretty cheap and I’d just like to clean up the inside since it’s been sitting for 5-6 years
thank, you for you're video
I don’t know if you are aware of him but there is a tuber guy called Car Wizard who has just got himself a 1995 V12 jag. Nice looking car. He is doing work on it and it may be of interest to you.
I know of him. I have been in contact with him sometimes and sent him tips on Jags he has had in his shop
I cracked the bleed pipe on the Clutch Slave Cylinder ,, (very easy done when you don't know what your doing ) break fluid leaked into the clutch, and boy does is slip... :(
cheers for the video .. loads of info
That sounds like no fun!
@@LivingWithAClassic 80 euro for the pipe and I think it also damaged the connection to the slave cylinder , so its weeping brake fluid,, I might have to get the experted in :(
But this is why I like these cars,, you can do most the work yourself with a little bit of caution :)
Nice video, got an XJ12 1990, maby i can visit you sometimes if i go on vacation, live in Stockholm.
You’re welcome to visit
You, said cheap jaguar. I've never seen a cheap jaguar before.
I'd love to get one of these for my wife.
They’re great cars!
Abs brakes can be a pain to do
Yes they can be
A few years ago my garage said car needed new brake hoses, so they were replaced, going to the supermarket about a week later approached a roundabout put my brakes on pedal went to the floor, F**K NOT GOOD, i managed to pull up just without hitting an almost new car in front of me, Limped to the garage burst New brake hose probably Chinese rubbish!!!! 😡😡 Brake hoses SHOULD be tested too FAR beyond the pressure expected of them, TEST them to DESTRUCTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My, jaguar cost one hundred thousand when was new
diesel filter must be bleeding befort start motor, because x-type don't have electric pump in rezervoir ! You will broke high injection pump like this ! It is not ok.
It’s still fine
Don't do like this again. Put the filter, bleeding and after put the line. Chec and start the motor and will be ok. You need to not have air in the line.
är den mauell :P
Yes