INSTALLING FCS2 BOXES pt2
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
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Really neat and ... perfect. Nice one. Best wishes to you for the new year!
Cheers Andy, happy new year to you too!
Hey, your videos are great and help not only satisfy the itch of wanting to repair but also figure out the important minor details. I wanted to ask why you did two hotcoats? or if there was a difference between that first hotcoat and second gloss coat? Great glassing work by the way
Hey man,
cheers, glad the videos are of use and some entertainment!
So the hot coat and the gloss coat are the same resin with the same 2% of wax additive in them. The difference is in the quantity. So the first hot coats only purpose is to allow me to sand the whole board and get everything nice and even. I generally mix the "perfect" amount of resin for this stage so I'm borderline not having enough. It takes the sticky away from the lam So I can move the board around and sand without dealing with dust and dirt and gummy sand paper. It's also not a worry if I expose some cloth weave on this sanding stage as the next gloss coat with deal with that.
The gloss coat is thicker and also includes the resin dam at the tail end to get that nice sharp edge. This batch I have plenty of resin for a good, comparatively thick coat and I can start my sanding at 240 or 320 with the orbital as everything is perfectly smooth from the previous sand and that makes for a better finish than starting with 120.
Hope that makes sense!
Nice work 👍
haha i found this video 2 days too late! great explanation thanks!
O no, haha! How'd you get on?
@@smallkinedings the left side of the left box was sitting slightly proud of the foam, so i've sanded it back a little and glassed it, but its still proud. going to have to very carefully sand it!
@@awai5600 o yup, that can happen! You can always carry on with glassing and sanding coat, then sand everything flush and re patch if needed before your gloss coat. Sanding next raw foam is scary stuff!
What are you mixing with your resin for setting the boxes in place?
Nothing mixed, this one was just straight poly and MEKP. Longboard boxes get cloth put in with the box and I used to chop strands into my fcs and futures but gave that up a while ago
I get the problem of 9 deg boxes in concaves not sitting flush with foam when the cant is set. Leaves one side of the box further in/out than the other. How do you tackle this and still get that level look once sanded?
Ye, can be a bit of a pain. It generally happens when you don't level your routing guide or template. So the template is lower on the stringer side than it is on the rail side. Pack some shims under the stringer side to level the template, then route at appropriate depth to sink your box
Sweet thanks mate, makes sense I'll give this a try. I guess I'll have to watch the router depth to make sure its still 1-2mm under the box height after the shims
@@siteos correct. Shouldn't be too much issue unless it's a particularly deep concave. Then what I'll usually do is roughly measure my shims, set the bit normally plus rough shim thickness and then keep test fitting, routing, test fitting, routing a couple of mm at a time until its good.
what is the reason for which some shapers put boxes after laminating of whole board is done? :)
Solid question with a few reasons.
If you were doing a cloth inlay or maybe an entire sheet of rice paper with a design on it, something you really need to look perfect don't want to risk sanding. These things take a lot of time to laminate too, without worrying abut boxes and bubbles. Those would be my biggest reasons personally.
Some people feel more comfortable dealing with the boxes after lamination as the lamination process can be pretty stressful anyway, especially on something like a 10ft mal
@@smallkinedings wow that's some fresh view on that subject :) thanks alot
What kind of rum?
I would reccomend Ratu but can't go wrong with Krakken or sailor jerries either! Actually, helmsman is a good drop too!